De. I rode to the eastward
from our camp, to ascertain how far we were from the
water-hole to which I had intended to conduct my party.
After having ascended the gullies, and passed the low
scrub and cypress-pine thicket which surrounds them,
I came into the open forest, and soon found our tracks,
and the little creek for which I had steered the day
before. This creek, however, soon became a rocky
gully, and joined a large creek, trending to the east
and south-east. Disheartened and fatigued, I
returned to the camp, resolved upon following down
the course of the Boyd to the south-west, until I
should come into a more open country. On my way
back, I fell in with a new system of gullies, south
of the creek I had left, and east of the creek on which
our camp was, and which I had called “The Creek
of the Ruined Castles,” because high sandstone
rocks, fissured and broken like pillars and walls and
the high gates of the ruined castles of Germany, rise
from the broad sandy summits of many hills on both
sides of the valley.
When I returned to the camp, Mr. Gilbert
told me, that Mr. Roper and John Murphy had been on
a mountain towards the head of the main creek, north-west
from our camp, and that they had seen an open country
before them. I therefore started, on the 2d December,
with Mr. Gilbert to examine it. Our admiration
of the valley increased at every step. The whole
system of creeks and glens which join “Ruined
Castle Creek,” would form a most excellent cattle
station. With the exception of the narrow gorge
through which the main creek passes to join the Creek
of Palms [Mr. Arrowsmith is of opinion that such a
junction is improbable, if the author is alluding
to the creek, called Palm Tree Creek, which he fell
in with about 60 miles to the S.E. Ed.]
to the south-east, which might be shut by a fence
not thirty yards long; and of the passable ranges
to the north-west, which lead into a new country,
and which form the pass seen by Roper and Murphy, it
is everywhere surrounded by impassable barriers.
Beautiful grass, plenty of water in the lower part
of the creek, and useful timber, unite to recommend
this locality for such a purpose. The creeks
to the east and south-east are also equally adapted
for cattle stations. After passing a stony ridge
covered with spotted-gum, from which the remarkable
features of the country around us the flat-topped
mountain wall, the isolated pillars, the immense heaps
of ruins towering over the summits of the mountains were
visible, we descended a slope of silver-leaved Ironbark,
and came to a chain of water-holes falling to the east.
Travelling in a north-westerly direction, and passing
over an openly timbered country, for about two miles,
we came to the division of the waters, on a slight
ridge which seemed to connect two rather isolated ranges.
We followed a watercourse to the northward, which,
at seven miles [In the original drawing the watercourse
is not more than two miles long, according to Mr.
Arrowsmith, so that seven miles must be a mistake. Ed.]
lower down, joined an oak-tree creek, coming from
the ranges to the eastward. Here water was very
scarce; the banks of the creek were covered with Bricklow
scrub; and a bush-fire, which had recently swept down
the valley, had left very little food for our cattle:
the blady-grass, however, had begun to show its young
shoots, and the vegetation, on some patches of less
recent burnings, looked green. Sterculia (heterophylla?)
and the Bottle-tree, were growing in the scrub; and
many Wonga-Wonga pigeons (Leucosarcia picata, Gould.)
were started from their roosting-places under the
old trees in the sandy bed of the creek. We caught
a young curlew; and Mr. Gilbert shot two Wonga-Wongas,
and three partridge-pigeons (Geophaps scripta).
The latter abound in the silver-leaved Ironbark forest,
where the grass has been recently burned.
After having contended with scrubs,
with swamps, and with mountains, we were again doomed
to grapple with our old enemy, the silver-leaved Bricklow,
and a prickly Acacia with pinnate leaves, much resembling
the A. farnesiana of Darling Downs.
The most remarkable feature in the
vegetation; however, was an aborescent Zamia, with
a stem from seven to eight or ten feet high, and about
nine inches in diameter, and with elongated cones,
not yet ripe. In consequence of the prevalence
of this plant, I called the creek “Zamia Creek.”
In the fat-hen flats, over which we travelled in following
the watercourse to Zamia creek, I was surprised to
find Erythrina, which I had been accustomed to meet
with only on the creeks, and at the outskirts of mountain
brushes, near the sea-coast. The white cedar (Melia
Azedarach) grows also along Zamia Creek, with casuarina,
and a species of Leptospermum. On my return to
the camp, I found that a party had been out wallabi
shooting, and had brought in three; they were about
two feet long; body reddish grey, neck mouse grey,
a white stripe on each shoulder, black muzzle, and
black at the back of the ear; the tail with rather
long hair. The flying squirrel (Petaurus sciureus)
which was not different from that of the Hunter; and
a Centropus phasianellus, (the swamp pheasant of Moreton
Bay), were shot.
De. We stopped at Ruined
Castle Creek, in order to obtain more wallabies,
which abounded among the rocks, and which appeared
to be a new species: it approaches nearest to
Pétrogale lateralis of Gould, from which,
however, it essentially differs. Mr. Gilbert and
all our best shots went to try their luck; they succeeded
in killing seven of them.
The weather was cloudy, but it cleared
up during the forenoon; in the afternoon rain commenced
with a perfect calm; for the last three days easterly
winds have prevailed, often blowing very strong at
night.
In the rocky gullies, we found the
following plants: a new species of Grevillea,
having pinnatifid leaves with very long divisions,
the blossoms of a fine red, and the seed-vessels containing
two flat seeds, surrounded by a narrow transparent
membrane; Leucopogon juniperinum and lanceolatum;
a Dodonaea with long linear leaves and D. triquetra,
were frequent.
De. I went with my
whole party to Zamia Creek, the latitude of which
is 25 degrees 5 minutes 4 seconds, and which is about
sixteen miles west by north from our last camp.
De. We followed Zamia
Creek about six miles down. It is very winding
and scrubby; the rock on its banks is a clayey flagstone
(Psammite); the upper strata are more clayey, and
break in many small pieces. Several hills approached
the creek; and a large mountain which I called Bigge’s
Mountain, in acknowledgment of the kind support of
Frederic Bigge, Esq., was seen to the eastward.
A large kangaroo started out of the creek, and was
killed by our dogs; it appeared to be rather different
from the common one, being remarkably light-coloured,
with a white belly, black end of the tail, and the
inside of the ear dark. We soon met with a fine
reedy water-hole, with swarms of little finches fluttering
about it; and, the place being suitable, I encamped
for the night, and took the opportunity to repair
some of our harness. The night was cloudy; the
morning very fine; and the day very hot, with an occasional
fresh breeze from the northward, which generally sets
in about eleven o’clock. Thick cumuli
came from the northward during the afternoon, but disappeared
towards sunset.
De. After a fine night,
we had a cold morning with heavy dew. From the
hills near the camp, Mount Nicholson bore degrees
W. and Aldis’s Peak due north; Bigge’s
Range was in sight to the eastward.
The horses had gone back to Ruined
Castle Creek, about twenty-one miles distant; and
the bullocks to our last camp, which, according to
Charley, had been visited by the Blackfellows, who
had apparently examined it very minutely. It
was evident that they kept an eye upon us, although
they never made their appearance. Our allowance
of flour was now reduced from six pounds to five.
De. We travelled down
Zamia Creek. The bed of the creek, though lined
with many casuarinas, was entirely dry, and we did
not reach a water-hole until we had travelled a distance
of nine miles from the camp. Hoping that the
supply of water would increase, I travelled on ward,
leaving Mount Nicholson about six miles to the left.
As we proceeded, the flats along the creek increased
in size; and we entered a level country (which seemed
unbounded towards the north-east) covered with silver-leaved
Ironbark, box, and flooded-gum. We passed a large
scrubby creek, coming from Mount Nicholson, and a
considerable watercourse from Aldis’s Peak.
On the latter, we found a fine water-hole, at which
we encamped. We started a great number of kangaroos;
but, unfortunately, they all escaped. The whole
country was full of game.
Whilst preparing to proceed on a RECONNOISSANCE
of the neighbourhood, Charley, who had been sent for
my horse, returned at full gallop, and told me that
Blackfellows were spearing our horses. Fortunately
Messrs. Gilbert and Calvert had just come in; and,
mounting our horses, three of us hastened to the place
where Charley had seen the Blacks, leaving the remainder
of our party to defend the camp. We found one
of our horses had been deeply wounded in the shoulder;
but fortunately, the others were unhurt, and were
grazing quietly. Charley saw two Blackfellows
retreating into the scrub, but had seen a great number
of them when he first came to the place. This
event, fortunately not a very disastrous one, was so
far useful, as it impressed every one with the necessity
of being watchful, even when the Blackfellows were
not suspected to be near.
The latitude of our camp was 24 degrees
54 minutes 19 seconds, and about seven miles from
our last camp. Aldis’s Peak bore N.W. by
W., distant two miles and a half; and I found that
it was surrounded by a dense scrub. After following
Zamia Creek for some miles, I turned to the left, and
travelled about north-north-west, when the scrub opened,
and we came upon open ridges, and, at about a mile
and a half from the river, found some fine lagoons.
The ridges, which are spurs of Aldis’s Peak and
Expedition Range, disappear in the level country to
the north-east. Farther on to the north-north-west,
I passed some fine plains, having the black soil,
the vegetation, the dry creeks and watercourses, of
Darling Downs. Thick scrub seems to extend all
along the foot of the range, from Aldis’s Peak
to Mount Nicholson. Both these mountains are composed
of basalt, containing numerous crystals of peridot.
De. I travelled with
my whole party over the ground which I had reconnoitred
yesterday, and had to go a considerable distance farther
to find water. Along the scrubs there are generally
chains of water-holes, which retain the water for
a long time, and are soon filled by heavy thunderstorms;
they are well puddled with clay, and, therefore, become
dry almost exclusively by evaporation. Our camp
was about eight miles N.N.W. from the last.
The feed was all parched up:
the native carrot, which was so green when we passed
Darling Downs, was here withered and in seed.
Immense stretches of forest had been lately burned,
and no trace of vegetation remained. Partridge-pigeons
were very numerous, and the tracks of kangaroos and
wallabies were like sheep-walks. Charley
saw an emu; but an iguana and a partridge-pigeon were
the only addition to our night’s mess.
The sky was covered by a thin haze,
occasioned by extensive bush fires. A fine breeze,
which sprung up at eleven o’clock, from the northward,
made travelling very agreeable. We enjoy no meal
so much as our tea and damper at luncheon, when we
encamp between twelve and two o’clock. It
is remarkable how readily the tea dispels every feeling
of fatigue, without the slightest subsequent injury
of health.
Paludinas and Unios were very frequent
in the water-holes. The silver-leaved Ironbark
(Eucalyptus pulverulentus) was here coming into
blossom. The whole vegetation seemed to feel the
heat of an almost vertical sun; and, with the exception
of the fresh green of the Vitex shrub, the silver-leaved
Bricklow, and those patches of young grass which had
been burnt about a month before all nature
looked withered. It was very hot from nine o’clock
to eleven, when the cooling northerly breeze usually
sets in.
Upon reaching the place of our next
camp, Mr. Roper went to cut tent-poles, but, perhaps
too intent on finding good ones, unfortunately lost
his way, and wandered about the bush for about five
miles before we were able to make him hear our cooees.
Accidents of this kind happen very easily in a wooded
country, where there is no leading range or watercourse
to guide the rambler, or when sufficient care is not
taken to mark and keep the direction of the camp.
De. The haze of yesterday
cleared up at sunset, after having formed two threatening
masses of clouds in the east and in the west, united
by a broad belt of mare’s tails across the sky.
It became cloudy again, and prevented my taking observations
during the night; the morning was cool and agreeable,
clearing up about eleven o’clock; the northerly
wind stirring, as usual. Proceeding on our journey,
we travelled about nine miles W.N.W. over a Box flat,
with stiff soil and melon-holes; after a few miles,
it changed into an open silver-leaved Ironbark forest,
with lighter soil. About six miles from our last
camp, we came upon a fine creek (with Casuarinas and
palm-trees), flowing from the mountains on a north-easterly
course; and, about three miles further, to the W.N.W.,
we came to another creek, and numerous palm-trees
growing near it. Following up the latter, we
found a fine water-hole surrounded by reeds, and which
is probably fed by a spring. The forest was well
grassed; and a small Acacia, about fifteen or twenty
feet high, with light green bipinnate leaves (from
which exuded an amber-coloured eatable gum), formed
groves and thickets within it. A Capparis,
a small stunted tree, was in fruit: this fruit
is about one inch long and three-quarters of an inch
broad, pear-shaped and smooth, with some irregular
prominent lines. Capparis Mitchelii has
a downy fruit, and is common in the scrubs. A
small trailing Capparis, also with oblong eatable
fruit, was first observed on a hill near Ruined Castle
Creek, in la degrees 10 minutes: we met
with it frequently afterwards. We were encamped
in the shade of a fine Erythrina; and the Corypha-palm,
Tristania, the flooded-gum, the silver-leaved Ironbark,
Tripetelus, and a species of Croton, grew around us.
A species of Hypochaeris and of Sonchus, were greedily
eaten by our horses; the large Xeranthemum grew on
the slopes, among high tufts of kangaroo grass.
A species of Borage (Trichodesma zeylanica), with fine
blue flowers, was first seen here; and the native raspberry,
and Ficus muntia, were in fruit. In the afternoon,
I went with Brown up the range, following the bed
of our creek; and, having ascended a spur of sandstone,
with gullies on each side, we came to a large basaltic
mountain, clothed with fine open timber, and a great
number of arborescent Zamias.
De. Accompanied by
Charley, I went in search of a passage over the range.
We ascended several hills in order to obtain general
views, and found that the level country, over which
we had travelled during the last two days, was of
less extent than I had anticipated. To the north-east
by east, ranges rise with the characteristic outlines
of the basalt and phonolite, in peaks and
long stretched flat-topped hills, with undulations
openly timbered extending at their base. One valley
descended to the north-north-east; another to the
northward. The principal range has a direction
from south-west to north-east; it is flat on the top,
is well grassed and openly timbered; but, to the northward,
it becomes scrubby, and also changes its geological
character. After having crossed the range without
any great difficulty, with the exception of some steep
places we came on gullies going down to
the north-west; and, from the rocky head of one of
them, the whole country to the west and northwest
burst upon us. There was a fine valley, a flat
country, plains, isolated long-stretched hills, and
distant ranges; the highest points of the latter bearing
77 degrees E. and 76 degrees W.; and, as I hoped to
reach them by Christmas time, I called them “Christmas
Ranges.” Not being able to discover a good
slope on which our bullocks could travel, I descended
at once into the gully, and followed it in all its
windings; knowing well from experience that it is
easier to find a passage up a mountain range than
down it. The gully had all the characters of those
of the Boyd; the same sandstone rock, the same abruptness,
and the same vegetation; excepting, perhaps, a new
Grevillea, with pinnatifid leaves and yellowish-white
woolly flowers, which we found here. There was
no water, except in some small holes full of gum leaves,
which had rendered it unfit for use. After proceeding
with great difficulty about three miles, we found
that the gullies opened into a broad flat valley; in
which fields of fat-hen, the Croton shrub, the native
Tobacco, Erythrina, fine specimens of flooded-gum,
Tristania, and the Moreton Bay ash, were growing in
great abundance. Farther down, however, the Bricklow
scrub covered the whole valley; the water-course disappeared
almost entirely; and we were completely disappointed
in our hopes of finding a fine country. Small
plains opened on both sides of the valley, surrounded
by Bricklow scrub, and with patches of Bricklow scattered
over them, in which the Bottle-tree frequently made
its portly appearance. A large flight of Wonga
Wonga pigeons were feeding on the seeds of various
species of Acacia; we shot two of them. No water
was to be found in an extent of fifteen miles.
The noisy call of the laughing Jackass (Dacclo gigantea)
made me frequently ride back and examine more minutely
those spots marked by a darker foliage; but the presence
of this bird is no certain indication of water, though
he likes the neighbourhood of shady creeks. I
could not help thinking that a considerable creek must
come from the north-west side of Mount Nicholson;
and, seeing an isolated range to the south-west, I
rode towards it, sure of finding water near it, if
there was any to be found. We approached the range
just before sunset, much tired, with two Wonga-Wongas
and three iguanas at our saddles. I had
just informed my Blackfellow, that I wished to encamp,
even without water, when some old broken sheets of
bark, remains of the frail habitations of the natives,
caught my eye; a dry water-hole, though surrounded
with green grass and sedges, showed that they had formerly
encamped there, with water. This water-hole was
found to be one of a chain of ponds extending along
the edge of the scrub which covered the hill; and,
on following it farther down, we came to a fine pool
of water, which enabled us to encamp comfortably.
Next morning, after having enjoyed an iguana, and
finding several other ponds well supplied with water,
we returned. In crossing several of the scrub
plains before mentioned, it was agreeable to observe
that the dense vegetation which covered them was not
the miserable Burr and the wiry Vervain, but Senecios
and Sonchus (Sowthistle), which our horses greedily
snatched as they waded through them. The soil
is of a dark colour, very rich, but mild; and the
rock below is basaltic. Kangaroos were feeding
on the plains along the scrub; and Charley fired unsuccessfully
at a fine “old man.” I saw one emu,
and Charley a drove of ten more. The country was
remarkably rich in various kinds of game; and I was
very sorry that we were not better sportsmen, to avail
ourselves of so favourable a circumstance. We
found a passage for our bullocks at the west side of
the valley along which we had come down; the ascent
was steep, but practicable. We followed the spur
up to the principal range, where we found some difficulty
in heading some steep gullies, which come up to the
highest crest of the mountains. After some tiresome
riding, I was fortunate enough to hit the head of
the creek on which our party was encamped; and, following
it down over loose rocks, large boulders,
and occasional steep falls accompanied
by my excellent little horse, which willingly followed
wherever I led, I came into a more open country; and
the report of a gun gave me the pleasing assurance
that our camp was at no great distance. My Blackfellow
quitted me on the range, as he had done before, on
several similar occasions; and it was too evident that
I could not rely upon him in times of difficulty and
danger. Within the scrub on the range, we found
five or six huts, lately constructed, of the natives;
they come here probably to find honey, and to catch
rock-wallabies, which are very numerous
in the sandstone gullies. In the gully which I
descended, a shrub with dark-green leaves was tolerably
frequent; its red berries, containing one or two seeds,
were about the size of a cherry, and very good eating
when ripe. The new Grevillea, before mentioned,
was also found here growing on a sandy soil; and a
species of Clematis tied the shrubs into an almost
impenetrable maze. The arborescent Zamia was as
frequent here as on the slopes and flat tops of the
basaltic mountains; it grows from six to ten feet
high, and even higher, and is about a foot in diameter;
and often, its dark scaly trunk, borne to the ground
by the winds, raises its fine head like a reclining
man.
There was a thunder-storm to the south-east
and east on the 10th December. These thunder-storms
are generally very local, belonging to distant valleys
and ranges. Much rain had fallen at the foot of
the range, but we had very little of it. Several
of my companions suffered by eating too much of the
cabbage-palm. The Blackfellows will doubtless
wonder why so many noble trees had been felled here.
One of our kangaroo-dogs followed a kangaroo, and
did not return; a severe loss, as we have only one
left out of five, and this one is young and diseased.
Our little terrier keeps very well.
De After a clear night,
the morning was misty, with a wall of clouds to the
westward; at nine o’clock it cleared up, and
loose cumuli passed over from the east; at eleven
o’clock all clouds had disappeared, and a cool
breeze set in from the northward. Charley did
not succeed in bringing in the horses and cattle sufficiently
early for starting on the long and difficult passage
over the range. Our meat was all consumed; but
we wished to reserve our bullocks for Christmas, which
was, in every one of us, so intimately associated
with recollections of happy days and merriment, that
I was determined to make the coming season as merry
as our circumstances permitted. This decision
being final, every one cheerfully submitted to a small
allowance, and did his best to procure game.
Our latitude was 24 degrees 43 minutes.
De. We travelled along
the spur at the west and south-west side of Erythrina
creek, at which we had been encamped; and, after having
headed the whole system of its gullies keeping
to the right along the main range for about three
miles, we came to the spur on which I and Charley
had ascended on our return, and which had a general
direction to the north-west. When we arrived
at the foot of the range, our cattle and horses were
so jaded, and the water-hole still so far off, that
I encamped here, more especially as the feed was young
and rich, and as I had hopes of obtaining water by
digging into the sand which filled the upper part
of the valley. In this, however, I did not succeed;
for, upon digging about three feet deep, I came on
a layer of stiff clay very hard and dry. Fortunately,
however, a thunder-storm came on towards the evening,
which supplied our cattle as well as ourselves with
water. This was the only time we encamped without
a certainty of water, during our journey from Jimba
to the head of the gulf, which occupied ten months.
The whole night was showery, the wind and clouds coming
from all directions.
De. We reached the
water-holes I had discovered three days previous.
Our cattle were very thirsty, notwithstanding the late
rain, and they rushed into the water as soon as they
got sight of it.
The hills, at the foot of which we
are encamped, are composed of whinstone (basalt).
Pebbles of conglomerate, of flint, and of quartz deeply
coloured with iron, are, however, very frequent on
the slopes. It is remarkable that that part of
the range which is composed of basalt, is a fine open
forest, whereas the basaltic hills of the large valley
are covered with dense scrub. The Myal was frequent;
and the fruit of the small lemon-tree was ripe.
I followed the watercourse which connects
the water-holes on which we encamped, and met every
where with Bricklow scrub. Mr. Gilbert ascended
the hills, and stated that the whole valley to the
westward appeared like an immense sea of scrub.
A thunder-storm was forming to the
north-west, but was probably deflected by the ranges.
De. Last night we
had two thunder-storms; one rose in the west, and
turned to the northward, following the Christmas Ranges;
the other rose in the south, and turned to the east,
probably attracted by Expedition Range. Still
following the watercourse, we entered, after about
four miles travelling, into the scrub. The watercourse
was soon lost in the level ground, and water-holes
appeared every where; the general direction of the
waters seemed to be to the north-west. Four miles
farther we came to a piece of open forest at the foot
of a hill, which was covered with ironstone-pebbles.
Here we encamped without water; but, having passed
good water-holes not four miles distant, I sent Mr.
Calvert and Brown to fetch some, whilst I and Charley
went forward to examine the country. On my way
to some ranges which I had seen to the eastward, I
fell in with a dry watercourse, and, following it
down for about half a mile from the camp, discovered
a well-filled water-hole. The watercourse was
found to join a creek with a deep and very wide bed,
but dry. Muscle-shells strewed in every direction,
and other appearances, indicated that, during the
wet season, the whole country must be very swampy.
The course of the creek was to the N. N. W., and it
is joined by watercourses from the right and left;
all now quite dry. After having followed the creek
for about twelve miles, until sunset, without coming
to the end of the scrub through which it trended,
we were compelled to retrace our steps; in attempting
which my companion, Charley, lost the track, but my
good little horse, Jim Crow, guided us to the camp,
which we reached about eleven o’clock.
Mr. Calvert and Brown had not yet returned; although
the report of their guns had been heard several times.
The night was extremely cold, notwithstanding we were
encamped under the shelter of trees: and it was
therefore evident that we were at a considerable elevation
above the level of the sea. The Box-tree of Jimba-flats,
the Bricklow in short, the whole vegetation
of the scrubby country, west of Darling Downs, were
still around us; and the Moreton Bay ash (a species
of Eucalyptus) which I had met with, throughout
the Moreton Bay district, from the sea coast of the
Nynga Nyngas to Darling Downs was here
also very plentiful.
De. Our cattle and
our horses, with the exception of those we had used
the night before, had strayed in search of water; but
Charley found them on the sow-thistle plains, beyond
our last camp. Messrs. Calvert, Murphy, and Brown,
came in early this morning; they had lost their way
in the dark, in consequence of remaining too long
at the water-hole. They informed me that they
had passed the night on an open piece of forest ground
along a creek. This intelligence induced me to
examine the locality: I therefore went with Brown,
and found the creek, with a deep sandy, but dry bed,
full of reeds; its direction being from south by west
to north by east. I followed it up about eight
miles, when the scrub receded from its left bank,
and a fine open extensive flat stretched to the westward.
I looked into the Casuarina thickets which occasionally
fringed its bank, in search of water; but found none.
I was frequently on the point of returning, but, induced
by the presence of reeds, continued the search, until
the scrub again approached the right side of the creek;
and, in one of those chains of ponds which almost invariably
exist at the outside of these scrubs, a small pool
of water was found. This gave me fresh confidence,
and I was eagerly examining the creek, when Brown
exclaimed, “Plenty of water, sir! plenty of water!”
and a magnificent lagoon, surrounded by a rich belt
of reeds, lay before us. The natives must have
been at this spot some time before, and have burned
the grass; as the earth was now covered with a delicate
verdure. The country appeared flat, and was so
openly timbered with fine flooded gum-trees, that
we could see for a considerable distance; a circumstance
very favourable to us, in case of the natives proving
hostile. It would appear that this place was
frequently resorted to by the natives: the bark
had been recently stripped in various places; the
huts were in good repair, with heaps of muscle-shells
and some kangaroo-bones about them. We returned
to the camp with the joyous news; for I had been greatly
perplexed as to the direction I ought to take.
Charley returned very late with the strayed cattle,
and reported that he had seen the smoke of the Blackfellow’s
fires all along the western ranges. This was welcome
intelligence; for we knew that their presence indicated
the existence of a good country. Yesterday in
coming through the scrub, we had collected a large
quantity of ripe native lemons, of which, it being
Sunday, we intended to make a tart; but, as my companions
were absent, the treat was deferred until their return,
which was on Monday morning, when we made them into
a dish very like gooseberry-fool; they had a very pleasant
acid taste, and were very refreshing. They are
of a light yellow colour, nearly round, and about
half an inch in diameter; the volatile oil of the
rind was not at all disagreeable.
The chains of water-holes within the
scrub are covered with a stiff star-grass, having
a great number of spikes rising from the top of the
stem; and several sedges crowd around the moister spots.
A stiff, wiry, leafless polygonaceous plant grows
in the shallow depressions of the surface of the ground,
which are significantly termed by the squatters “Melon-holes”,
and abound in the open Box-tree flats. A small
shrubby Stenochilus with very green linear lanceolate
leaves and red tubulous flowers, is frequent amongst
the Bricklow.
The pools and lagoons contain Unios,
Paludinas, and the lanceolate and oval Limnaeas.
Fine dry weather has set in; the northerly breeze is
still very regular; but the mornings, from eight to
eleven, are very hot. A few mosquitoes have made
their appearance, probably in consequence of the late
rains. Charley killed a Diamond snake, larger
than any he had ever seen before; but he only brought
in the fat, of which there was a remarkable quantity.
The Iguanas (Hydrosaurus, Gray) have a slight
bluish tinge about the head and neck; but in the distribution
of their colours, generally resemble H. Gouldii.
Mr. Gilbert found a land crab in the
moist ground under a log of wood; and Mr. Calvert
brought me a species of helix of a yellowish green
colour.
De. It was with very
great difficulty that we collected our horses and
cattle; but we could not find one of our pack bullocks,
which had concealed himself in the scrub, and, from
the unfavourable situation of our camp, we were obliged
to abandon it. Old bullocks, when tired, care
very little about company, and even like to retire
to any solitary spot, where there is good feed and
water. Having nearly reached the end of our stage,
we were overtaken by a thunder-storm from the south;
which was followed by another from the west with very
heavy rain. This was the first heavy rain to
which we had been exposed, whilst on the day’s
march; for thunder-storms did not generally rise till
after two o’clock; at which time we were usually
secured in our tents.
The fine lagoons which
I called “Brown’s Lagoons” after
their discoverer and the good feed about
them, induced me to stop for the purpose of killing
the fat bullock which Mr. Isaacs had given us, and
of drying it like the charqui of the South Americans;
instead of waiting till Christmas, as we originally
intended; especially as we were ignorant of the character
of the country before us. Accordingly, on the
18th at five o’clock in the morning, it was
slaughtered and cut into thin slices; which, before
night, were nearly dried by the powerful heat of an
almost vertical sun. We enjoyed ourselves very
much on this occasion, and feasted luxuriously on
fried liver at breakfast, on stuffed heart for luncheon,
and on a fine steak and the kidneys for supper.
Those who may have lived for so long a time as we
had upon a reduced fare, will readily understand with
what epicurean delight these meals were discussed.
De. We completed our
job, by melting down the fat, with which our saddles,
bridles, and all our leather gear, were well greased.
In the afternoon Mr. Calvert and Charley, who had
been sent after the bullock we had left behind, returned
with him. They had found him quietly chewing
the cud, in a Bricklow grove near a small pool of water.
De. Whilst employed
in arranging our packs, Murphy and Charley went out
to examine the surrounding country. On their return
they informed me that they had met with a native camp,
the inhabitants of which were probably out hunting,
for they had left all their things behind.
Capparis Mitchelii was found
in blossom. The cockatoo parrakeet of the Gwyder
River, (Nymphicus Novae Hollandiae, Gould.), the
common white cockatoo, and the Moreton Bay Rosella
parrot, were very numerous. We also observed
the superb warbler, Malurus cyaneus of Sydney;
and the shepherd’s companion, or fan-tailed
fly-catcher (Rhipidura); both were frequent.
Several rare species of finches were shot: and
a species of the genus Pomatorhinus, a Swan River
bird, was seen by Mr. Gilbert. The latitude of
this encampment was found to be 24 degrees 44 minutes
55 seconds.
De. As our meat was
not entirely dry, I thought it advisable to remain
another day at this place, which was usefully occupied
by packing the fat into bags made of the hide of the
animal. Besides the plants above-mentioned, a
beautiful blue Nymphaea was found growing in the lagoon;
and around it, among the reeds and high cyperaceous
plants, a small labiate, a Gomphrena, the native Chamomile,
and a Bellis were growing.
The days continue very hot. At
5 P.M. we had a thunder-storm from the southward:
but little rain fell. It cleared up at seven o’clock;
very heavy dew in the morning.
De. We travelled to-day
about five miles in a north-north-west direction,
and encamped at the creek where Charley and his companion
had seen the huts of the natives, which we found deserted.
Our route lay through a flat country, timbered with
true box, (small Acacias forming the underwood),
along a fine lagoon on which were a number of ducks;
farther on, the Bastard box prevailed, with silver-leaved
Ironbark, and patches of Bricklow scrub, of Vitex
and of the native lemon. A small tree (a species
of Acacia) was also seen about thirty or forty feet
high, with slightly drooping branches, and lanceolate
deep green phyllodia about one inch.
I reconnoitred with Charley, and found
that the creek soon became enveloped by scrub:
to the west and south-west rose ranges of a moderate
elevation, parallel to which we travelled; plains frequently
interspersed with scrub, which became more dense as
it approached the foot of the ranges. From these
appearances I determined upon sending my party back
to Brown’s Lagoons, to secure water; whilst
I should examine the country in advance, in order
to ascertain the extent of the scrub, in which we were
entangled.
De During the night
we had a tremendous thunder-storm from the southward
with much rain, which did not cease till after midnight,
and was succeeded by a hurricane from the east.
We witnessed a remarkable meteor, of a fine bluish
colour, stretching from E.N.E. to W.S.W. almost parallel
to the thunder-clouds. The moon, a day from its
full, to the eastward, probably produced this phenomenon.
The bower of the bowerbird (Chlamydera
maculata, Gould) was seen in the scrub; it is
made of dry grass, and its approaches at either end
were thickly strewn with snail shells and flint pebbles,
which had been collected by the bird with great industry,
but for what purpose we could not determine.
Among the shells we found a Helix of a brownish colour
and of an oval form, approaching that of Bulimus.
Whilst my companions returned to Brown’s
Lagoons, Mr. Calvert and Brown remained with me to
examine the country. The creek which I followed
down, almost entirely disappeared; but, five miles
farther on, its channel was again observed, as deep
as before, and was joined by several water-courses
from the Christmas Ranges. The principal channel
of the creek was lined with a species of Melaleuca,
with slightly foliacious bark. Several species
of sedges, and nutritious grasses, grew round the
holes in which the water was constant. At about
fifteen miles from the camp, the creek was joined
by that which I had followed for some distance on
the 15th December, and, about three miles farther down,
it receives another considerable tributary; and, at
their junction, it is a fine sheet of water.
Here the country begins to open, with large Box-flats
extending on both sides. Two small creeks come
in from the scrubby hills to the eastward, but, at
a short distance beyond their junction, almost the
whole channel disappears. Soon after, we came
to another creek, to the left of the first; but it
disappeared in the same manner as the other.
We came upon several lagoons, and found some very fine
grass: the scrub reappeared on the rising ground
about six miles north from the large sheet of water.
A little farther on, we came to ridges of basaltic
formation, openly timbered with silver-leaved Ironbark,
and richly covered with young grasses and herbs, identical
with those of the Darling Downs. Water holes
with fine water were found at the foot of the hills.
Mimosa terminalis was frequent; numerous flights
of partridge pigeons (Geophaps scripta) were also
seen.
De. We returned towards
the camp, but, through some inattention, kept too
much to the eastward, and passed through a country
of an extremely diversified character, and very different
in appearance from that we had just left. Here
we passed an extensive Myal forest, the finest I had
seen, covering the hilly and undulating country, interspersed
with groves of the native lemon tree; a few of which
were still sufficiently in fruit to afford us some
refreshment. Occasionally we met with long stretches
of small dead trees, probably killed by bush fires,
alternating with Bricklow thickets: and then again
crossed small plains and patches of open forest ground,
which much relieved the tediousness of the ride through
thick scrubs, which we had frequently to penetrate
with both hands occupied in protecting the face from
the branches. We also crossed chains of water-holes
surrounded by a coarse stargrass; these now changed
into creeks with deep and irregular beds, lined with
Melaleucas, and now again dwindled into shallow channels,
scarcely to be recognised amidst the surrounding scrub.
A week before, these holes were hopelessly dry; but
a recent thunder-storm had filled them; and had also
made the ground soft and heavy, and had called into
life thousands of small frogs, which, by an incessant
croaking, testified their satisfaction at the agreeable
change.
De. We returned to
Brown’s Lagoons, and entered our camp just as
our companions were sitting down to their Christmas
dinner of suet pudding and stewed cockatoos.
The day was cloudy and sultry; we had had a heavy
thunder-storm on Christmas eve.
De. During the night,
scud passed from the east; in the morning we had some
heavy showers without wind; it cleared up at ten o’clock,
and we took advantage of four hours fair weather to
travel on. We again passed the huts of the natives,
and encamped about seven miles farther down the creek.
We were, however, scarcely housed, when heavy showers
of rain began to fall, and rendered the soil, which
was a stiff loam, heavy and boggy.
De. Though we had
hobbled our horses with straps and stirrup leathers,
they had strayed, during the night, to the more open
country, where they separated from each other in search
of food; and it was not until after three hours search
that Charley found the greater part of them.
We had, however, watched the bullocks during the night,
and were therefore enabled to proceed; which we did
as far as the fine sheet of water before mentioned,
when Charley again went in search of the missing horses,
with which he returned after some time.
The showers continued until about
10 o’clock last night; at 3 A. M. the sky became
clear, and continued so through the morning, except
an occasional cloud from the eastward.
Mr. Calvert found a Bauhinia in blossom;
which was not only different from the Bauhinia found
afterwards at Comet River, but also from that of the
Mitchell. Mr. Gilbert found a new species of sleeping
lizard, with four lighter stripes on the dark brown
ground along the back, and with dark spots on the
sides. Mr. Roper shot some ducks, and I found
a species of Ancylus; besides the species of Limnaea
and Paludina, which we had previously met with.
De. We travelled over
the Box-tree flat, until we reached the open basaltic
ridges mentioned on the 23rd December, and kept along
their base. The creek, which had disappeared
on the flat, here again formed a large deep channel,
lined with Melaleucas. Hollows existed along the
hills, and water-holes ran in lines parallel to the
creek; all now quite dry; a scrubby forest land alternated
with open flats and Bricklow thickets. Water
was very scarce; and having encamped my party, I started
immediately to reconnoitre the country. I followed
the creek to the northward, and found it lined by
scrub; but the belt along its west side was narrow,
and beyond it, a fine open undulating country was observed
extending far to the south-west and west, in which
direction the loom of distant ranges was seen.
These plains, which had some patches of open forest
land, were, at the request of my companion, Mr. Calvert,
named “Albinia Downs.” To the north-west,
the mountain with the hummock lay close before us,
throwing out subordinate spurs to the westward.
In riding to the most northerly end of it, I fell
in with a small water-course, which led me to a large
creek coming from the south-west and west-south-west,
with fine Casuarinas fringing its banks and forming
a dark tortuous line amongst the light green foliage
of the trees on the neighbouring flats. About
six miles lower down, it was joined by the scrub creek
on which we were encamped.
The sandy bed of the creek was entirely
dry, and we must have encamped without water after
a long and fatiguing ride, had not a heavy thunder-shower
supplied us; we caught the rain in our pannikins as
it dropt from our extended blankets.
The thunder-storm had passed, and
the sun had set, when Brown, my blackfellow, suddenly
threw back the blanket under which we sat, and pointed
out to me a fine comet in a small clear spot of the
western sky. I afterwards learned that this comet
had been observed as early as the 1st December; but
our constant travelling in level forest land had prevented
us from seeing it before. The creek received the
appropriate name of “Comet Creek.”
De. Following the
creek down, we found water in chains of ponds, and
watercourses coming from a belt of scrub occupying
the ground between the creek and the mountains.
Fine, though narrow, but well-grassed flats extended
along Comet Creek. We observed growing on the
creek, the dwarf Koorajong (Grewia), a small rough-leaved
fig tree, a species of Tribulus, and the native
Portulaca. The latter afforded us an excellent
salad; but was much more acid than I had found it
in other parts of the country, where I had occasionally
tasted it. The native melon of the Darling Downs
and of the Gwyder, grew here also. Of animals,
we saw several kangaroos, émus, native companions,
and wallabies.
During our return to the camp, a hot
wind blew from the south-west across Albinia Downs:
the great extent of which sufficiently accounted for
the high temperature. The only thermometer I
had was unfortunately broken shortly after we started;
this loss was severely felt by me throughout the journey,
as we had no means of ascertaining the exact temperature.
I made the latitude of our camp at Scrub Creek to
be 24 degrees 25 minutes 42 seconds.
De. We travelled about
seven miles to the north-east, crossed Comet Creek,
and encamped at some water-holes, in a small creek
coming out of the scrub below the range.
Our sportsmen gave chase to ten émus
and a kangaroo on Albinia Downs: but the rottenness
of the ground prevented their capture: rather
tantalizing to hungry stomachs! I examined the
basaltic rock on several spots, and found that it
contained numerous crystals of Peridot. The sand
in the bed of the river contains very minute particles
of igneous rock. The slopes of the range of Comet
Creek are composed of rich black soil, in some places
without trees, in others openly timbered. Stones
of a light coloured rock, with crystals of augite,
pebbles of sandstone, of conglomerate, and of quartz,
are scattered over the ground, or imbedded in the
loamy beds of the water-courses. The belt of scrub
at the foot of the slopes runs out in narrow strips
towards the river, and these are separated by box-tree
thickets, and open box-tree flats. A pea-plant,
with ternate leaves, and fine yellow blossoms, was
found near our camp: Portulaca was very abundant.
The bronze-winged pigeon lived here on the red fruit
of Rhagodia, and the black berries of a species of
Jasmine; and seems also to pick occasionally the seed
vessel of a Ruellia, which is very frequent on all
the flats of Comet Creek.
During the night, a thunder-storm
passed to the southward, but did not reach us; at
10 o’clock we observed very vivid lightning to
the westward: the wind was from the north and
north-east.
De. We travelled along
the banks of the creek towards the north-east, but
scarcely accomplished six miles, in consequence of
its tortuous course. The water-hole which I had
found when reconnoitring, was dried up, and we were
glad to find a shallow pool, of which our thirsty
cattle took immediate possession. The sand in
the bed of the creek looked moist, but no water was
found, after digging to a depth of five feet.
The immediate neighbourhood of the creek was in some
places open, in others covered with a shrubby Acacia,
with long glaucous, and rather fleshy phyllodia.
On both sides of the high banks are deep hollows, and
chains of ponds, surrounded with reeds; but now quite
dry, and covered with the dead shells of Limnaea,
Paludina, and Unio.
Mr. Roper found an Agama, with light
grey on the back, and a yellow belly. A small
Chlamy-dophorus, (Jew lizard of the Hunter) was also
seen, and is probably identical with the animal inhabiting
the banks of that river. Brown accompanied me
to reconnoitre the country; and we had scarcely travelled
two miles along the creek, when my attention was attracted
by the remains of a hut, consisting of a ridge pole,
and two forked stakes, about six feet high, both having
been cut with a sharp iron tomahawk. Neither
of us doubted that this was the work of a white man,
probably a runaway from the settlement at Moreton Bay.
A few miles farther we came to an anabranch of the
creek, which turned considerably to the westward.
I followed it, and found a shallow watercourse that
came out of the scrub, which I also examined in search
of water. It led me to another deep channel within
the scrub, which looked unusually green, and contained
some very large water-holes; but there was no water
in them. Turning round one of its bends, we saw
a column of thick smoke rising from its left bank,
near a fine pool of water. It was evident that
a camp of natives was before us; we rode cautiously
up to the water, near which we saw their numerous
tracks, and then stopped to look around, but without
dismounting. We were, however, very soon discovered
by one of them, who, after staring at us for a moment,
uttered a cry, resembling the word “whitefellow,”
“whitefellow,” and ran off, followed by
the whole party. We then rode up to the camp,
and found their dinner ready, consisting of two eggs
of the brush turkey, roasted opossums, bandicoots,
and iguanas. In their “dillis,”
(small baskets) were several roots or tubers of an
oblong form, about an inch in length, and half an inch
broad, of a sweet taste, and of an agreeable flavour,
even when uncooked; there were also balls of pipe-clay
to ornament their persons for corroborris. Good
opossum cloaks, kangaroo nets, and dillis neatly worked
of koorajong bark, were strewed about; there were also
some spears, made of the Bricklow Acacia: all
were forgotten in the suddenness of their retreat.
I could not resist the temptation of tasting one of
the eggs, which was excellent; but, as they seemed
to have trusted to our generosity, I left every thing
in its place, and departed. Brown thought that
one of them looked like a half-caste, and, as they
had called us, as far as we understood, “whitefellows,”
I felt confirmed in my supposition, either that a
white man was with them, or had lived among them very
recently. I returned to the creek, in order to
find another water-hole with water; but did not succeed,
and had to encamp without it. During the night
we heard the noise of a frog, “brrr, brrr;”
probably a new species, for we had never heard that
croak before. It seemed, however, to frighten
Brown, who, like all blackfellows, is very timid after
night-fall. Yesterday we met with a new leguminous
shrub. It belongs to the section Cassia, and
has a long pinnate leaf, the leaflets an inch long,
and half an inch broad. Its pods were about a
foot long, half an inch broad; and every seed was
surrounded by a fleshy spongy tissue, which, when dry,
gave to the pod a slightly articulate appearance.
The seeds, when young, had an agreeable taste, and
the tissue, when dry, was pleasantly acidulous, and
was eaten by some of my companions without any ill
effect, whilst others, with myself, were severely
purged. To day I found the same plant in form
of a tree, about thirty feet high, with a short stem,
and long spreading shady branches.