I am going to try to describe to you
something of the lives and homes of your dear grandfather
and of your great-grandfather, because I want you
to know something of them, because their mode of life
was one of which scarcely a vestige is left now, and
because, finally, I don’t want you to be led
into the misconception held by some that Southern
planters and slaveholders were cruel despots, and that
the life of the negro slaves on the plantation was
one of misery and sorrow.
Before I enter upon my brief narrative
I want you to realize that it is all strictly true,
being based upon my knowledge of facts; very simple
and homely in its details, but with the merit of entire
truthfulness.
Your great-grandfather, Thomas Pollock
Devereux, and your grandfather, John Devereux, were
planters upon an unusually large scale in North Carolina;
together they owned eight large plantations and between
fifteen and sixteen hundred negroes. Their lands,
situated in the rich river bottoms of Halifax and
Bertie counties, were very fertile, the sale crops
being corn, cotton, and droves of hogs, which were
sent to Southampton county, Virginia, for sale.
The names of your great-grandfather’s
plantations were Conacanarra, Feltons, Looking Glass,
Montrose, Polenta, and Barrows, besides a large body
of land in the counties of Jones and Hyde. His
residence was at Conacanarra, where the dwelling stood
upon a bluff commanding a fine view of the Roanoke
river, and, with the pretty house of the head overseer,
the small church, and other minor buildings, looked
like a small village beneath the great elms and oaks.
Your grandfather’s principal
plantation, and our winter home, was Runiroi, in Bertie
county. The others were “The Lower Plantation”
and “Over the Swamp.” At Runiroi
we lived and called ourselves at home, and of it I
have preserved the clearest recollection and the fondest
memories.
From Kehukee bluff, which we usually
visited while waiting for the ferryman on our return
journey after the summer’s absence, the plantation
could be seen stretching away into the distance, hemmed
in by the flat-topped cypresses. From there we
had a view of our distant dwelling, gleaming white
in the sunlight and standing in a green oasis of trees
and grass, all looking wonderfully small amid the expanse
of flat fields around it. Apart as I now am from
the restless, never-ending push of life, when neither
men nor women have time for leisure, when even pleasure
and amusement are reduced to a business calculation
as to how much may be squeezed into a given time, I
think it might perhaps calm down some of the nervous
restlessness that I perceive in my dear children and
grandchildren if they could, for once, stand there
in the soft November sunshine. The splendor of
the light is veiled in a golden haze, the brown fields
bask in the soft radiance and seem to quiver in the
heat, while the ceaseless murmur of the great river
is like a cradle song to a sleepy child; the rattle
of the old ferryman’s chain and the drowsy squeak
of his long sweeps seem even to augment the stillness.
The trees along the banks appear to lack the energy
to hang out the brilliant reds and purples of autumn,
but tint their leaves with the soft shades of palest
yellow, and these keep dropping and floating away,
while the long gray moss waves dreamily in the stillness.
The house at Runiroi was a comfortable,
old, rambling structure, in a green yard and flower
garden, not ugly, but quite innocent of any pretensions
at comeliness. Neither was there, to many, a bit
of picturesque beauty in the flat surroundings; and
yet this very flatness did lend a charm peculiar
to itself. My eyes ever found a delight in its
purple distances and in the great, broad-armed trees
marking the graceful curves of the river. The
approach from the public road, which followed the
bank of the river, was through the “willow lane,”
between deep-cut ditches, which kept the roadway well
drained unless the river overspread its banks, when
the lane was often impassable for days. In the
springtime, when the tender green boughs of the willows
were swayed by the breeze, it was a lovely spot, and
a favorite resort of the children.
I was so young a bride, only seventeen,
when I was taken to our winter home, and so inexperienced,
that I felt no dread whatever of my new duties as
mistress. The household comforts of my childhood’s
home had seemed to come so spontaneously that I never
thought of processes, and naturally felt rather
nonplussed when brought into contact with realities.
The place had for years been merely a sort of camping-out
place for your great-grandfather, who liked to spend
a part of the winter there; so the house was given
over to servants who made him comfortable, but who
took little heed of anything else.
I recollect my antipathy to a certain
old press which stood in the back hall. The upper
part was filled with books. In the under cupboard,
Minerva kept pies, gingerbread, plates of butter, etc.
The outside looked very dim and dusty. I could
not bear to look at it, but knew not how to remedy
its defects. I know now that it was a handsome
old piece, which a furniture-lover would delight in.
However, my youthful appetite did not scorn Minerva’s
gingerbread, and, as I had many lonely hours to get
through with as best I could, I would mount the highest
chair that I could find, and ransack the old musty
volumes in search of amusement. The collection
consisted chiefly of antiquated medical works, some
tracts, etc., but once, to my delight, I unearthed
two of Mrs. Radcliffe’s novels, which were indeed
a treasure trove; one of them was “Gaston de
Blondeville,” which I thought beautiful.
I have regretted that I did not take care of it, for
I have never seen another copy.
Minerva was a woman of pretty good
sense, but of slatternly habits. She had been
so long without a lady to guide her that her original
training was either forgotten or entirely disregarded.
Once, when starting to Conacanarra for Christmas,
I charged her to take advantage of the fine weather
to give the passage floors a thorough scrubbing; they
were bare and showed every footprint of black mud from
the outside. When it came time to return, in
spite of our pleasant Christmas week, we were glad
to think of our own home and were rather dismayed
when the morning fixed for our departure broke dark
and very cold, with little spits of snow beginning
to fall. I was much afraid that we should be
compelled to yield to the hospitable objections to
our going, but at last we succeeded in getting off.
We crossed at Pollock’s (your great-grandfather’s
ferry), so that should the storm increase we need
not leave our comfortable carriage until we should
be at home. It was a lonely drive; the snow fell
steadily but so gently that I enjoyed seeing the earth
and the trees, the fences and the few lonely houses
that we passed all draped in white; though we were
warmly wrapped, the anticipation of the crackling fires
in our great old fireplaces was delightful. When
we got home, the first sound that greeted our ears,
as we stepped upon the piazza, was a mournful, long-drawn
hymn. Shivering and damp from our walk up the
yard, we opened the door, to see Minerva, with kilted
skirts, standing in an expanse of frozen slush and
singing at the top of her voice, while she sluiced
fresh deluges of water from her shuck brush. I
was too disgusted for words, but resolved that this
should not occur again. As soon as I could communicate
with the outside world I had the hall floors covered
with oilcloth (then the fashionable covering).
Also, Minerva was displaced, and Phyllis reigned in
her stead, but Minerva, nevertheless, always indulged
in the belief that she was indispensable to our happiness
and comfort.
In honor of my advent as mistress,
the floors had been freshly carpeted with very pretty
bright carpets, which were in danger of being utterly
ruined by the muddy shoes of the raw plantation servants,
recently brought in to be trained for the house.
Although the soil generally was a soft, sandy loam,
I observed in my horseback rides numbers of round
stones scattered about in the fields. They were
curious stones, and looked perfectly accidental and
quite out of place. Their presence excited my
interest, and aroused my curiosity as to their origin,
which has never been gratified. They seemed so
out of place in those flat fields! However, I
determined to utilize them and had a number collected
and brought into the yard, and with them I had a pretty
paved walk made from the house to the kitchen.
Our house stood upon what was known
as the “Second Land,” which meant a slight
rise above the wide, low grounds, which were formerly,
I believe, the bed of the sluggish stream now known
as the Roanoke. All along the edge of these Second
Lands, just where they joined the low grounds, there
was a bed of beautiful small gravel. I was delighted
when I discovered this and at once interested myself
in having a gravel walk made up to the front of the
house, and this was, when completed, all that I had
hoped, and served as a perfect protection against
the offending mud.
There was one evil, though, which
I could not guard against, and this was the clumsy
though well-meaning stupidity of a plantation negro.
One afternoon the house became offensive with the odor
of burning wool. I followed up the scent and,
after opening several doors, I finally traced it to
the dining-room. It was filled with smoke, and
there, in front of an enormous fire, squatted Abby.
In a fit of most unaccountable industry she had undertaken
to clean the brass andirons, and had drawn them red
hot from the fire and placed them upon the carpet.
Of course, four great holes were the result and, as
the carpets had been made in New York, there were
no pieces with which the holes could be mended.
As I had already decided her to be too stupid to be
worth the trouble of training, I felt no desire to
find fault with her, so I merely told her to put them
back, or rather stood by to see it done. I did
not keep her in the house after that, but do not suppose
that she ever at all realized the mischief that she
had done.
One of my amusements was to watch
the birds; they were so numerous, and appeared to
be so tame. I set traps for them. This was
childish, but I was very young and often rather at
a loss to find something to do; so I used to take
with me my small house boy, “Minor,” whom
I was training to be a grand butler; he would carry
the trap and, after it had been set and baited, I
would make him guide me to the trees where the sweetest
persimmons grew; there I would while away the morning
and on the next we would find one or more birds fluttering
in the trap, which, to Minor’s silent disgust,
I would set free.
The squirrels, too, were a pleasure
to me in my horseback rides toward Vine Ridge, especially.
Your grandfather and I would pause to watch them playing
hide and seek just like children, scampering round
and round, their pretty gray tails waving, until some
noise would send them out of sight, and the silent
forest would seem as if no living thing were near.
It was upon one of these rides that your grandfather
told me how, when he was about twelve years old, and
spending his Christmas holidays at Runiroi with his
grandfather, he once said that he could shoot one
hundred squirrels between sunrise and sunset.
His uncle, George Pollock Devereux, happened to hear
him and rebuked him sharply for so idle a boast, and
when your dear grandfather manfully stood his ground,
saying that it was not an idle boast, his uncle called
him a vain braggart, which so offended your grandfather
that he told his uncle that he would prove the truth
of his assertion. And so, upon the following
morning, he rose early and was at Vine Ridge gun in
hand, ready to make his first shot, as soon as the
sun should appear. The squirrels were very numerous
at first, and he made great havoc among them.
Many a mile he tramped that day, scanning with eager
eyes the trees above him, in search of the little
gray noses, hidden behind the branches, and thus it
happened that he got many a fall and tumble among
the cypress knees; but what did that matter to his
young limbs? he had only to pick himself up again
and tramp on. As the day advanced, fewer little
bright eyes peeped from the tree-tops and his number
was not made up; he was getting tired too, and very
hungry, for he had eaten nothing since his early breakfast.
He stumbled wearily on, however, determined not to
fail, for he dreaded his uncle’s triumphant
sarcasm should he do so. A few more shots brought
his number to ninety-nine, but where was the one-hundredth
to be found? The sun was sinking to the horizon;
he had come out from the swamp and was tramping homeward;
the gun, so light in the morning, now weighed like
lead upon his shoulder. As he looked into every
tree for that hundredth squirrel which could not be
found, the sun’s disk was resting upon the horizon
when he turned into the willow lane leading to the
house. Just at the entrance there stood a great
chestnut oak. This was his last chance.
He paused to take one hopeless look, when, to his
unspeakable joy, he beheld a fox squirrel seated up
among the branches. Now he knew that the fox
squirrel was the slyest, as well as the shyest of
all his kind; no creature so expert as he in slipping
out of range; there would be no chance for a second
shot, for now only a rim of the sun was left.
With a wildly beating heart he raised his gun, took
time to aim well, fired, and
down came his hundredth squirrel. His wager was
won; fatigue and hunger all gone, he hastened gayly
home and with pride emptied his bag before his uncle
and his delighted old grandfather, who loved him above
everything, and who finally made him his heir, so
that your grandfather was quite independent of his
own father.
When I first became acquainted with
the plantation, the sale crop was taken down to Plymouth
in a great old scow, but this was afterward superseded
by the introduction of freight steamers, which took
the produce direct to Norfolk. These steamers
proved to be a great comfort and convenience to us.
By them we might receive anything that we desired
from Norfolk, of which the things most enjoyed were
packages of books, Vickry and Griffiths,
booksellers, having standing orders to send at their
discretion what they thought desirable, besides the
special orders for what we wished to see.
The advent of a steamer at the landing
would cause much pleasurable excitement. If anything
of special interest was expected, the first puff of
steam from down the river would be eagerly examined
through the spy-glass. Then would follow several
days of busy life down at the different barns from
which the corn was to be shipped. Before the
introduction of the corn-sheller, the corn was beaten
from the cob by men wielding great sticks, or flails;
others raked the grain into an immense pile; from
this pile it was measured by select hands and put
into bags, which were carried to the steamer lying
at the landing. The men who measured and kept
the tally maintained a constant song or chant, and
designated the tally, or fifth bushel, by a
sort of yell. The overseer stood by with pencil
and book and scored down each tally by a peculiar
mark. The constant stream of men running back
and forth, with bags empty or full, made a very busy
scene.
After the corn had been shipped, the
boat had steamed down the river, and the place, lately
so full of busy life, had returned to its accustomed
quiet seclusion, the redbirds came to peck up the corn
left upon the ground. I remember how once, upon
a cold, gray afternoon, I put on my wraps and ran
down to the Sycamore Barn, on purpose to watch the
shy, beautiful things. Snowflakes were beginning
to fall and whisper about the great bamboo vines;
twisted around the trees upon the river banks, the
long gray moss hung motionless and a thick grayness
seemed to shut out the whole world; all about me was
gray, earth, sky, trees, barn, everything,
except the redbirds and the red berries of a great
holly tree under whose shelter I stood, listening
to the whispering snowflakes.
The Sycamore Barn derived its name
from a great sycamore tree near which it stood.
This tree was by far the largest that I ever saw; a
wagon with a four-horse team might be on one side,
and quite concealed from any one standing upon the
other. When I knew it, it was a ruin, the great
trunk a mere shell, though the two giant forks, themselves
immense in girth still had life in them.
In one side of the trunk was an opening, about as
large as an ordinary door; through this we used to
enter, and I have danced a quadrille of eight within
with perfect ease.
This tree gave its name to the field
in which it grew, which formed part of the tract known
as the Silver Wedge. It was about the Silver
Wedge that an acrimonious lawsuit was carried on during
the lives of your great-great-grandparents, John and
Frances Devereux. She was a Pollock, and the
dispute arose through a Mr. Williams, the son or grandson
of a certain Widow Pollock, who had, after the death
of her first husband, Major Pollock, married a Mr.
Williams. She may possibly have dowered in this
Silver Wedge tract. At any rate, her Williams
descendants set up a claim to it, although it was in
possession of the real Pollock descendant, Frances
Devereux. It was a large body of very rich land,
and intersected the plantation in the form of a wedge,
beginning near the Sycamore Barn, and running up far
into the Second Lands, widening and embracing the
dwelling-house and plantation buildings. I have
heard your great-great-grandfather laugh and tell
how Williams once came to the house, and, with a sweeping
bow and great assumption of courtesy, made your great-great-grandmother
welcome to remain in his house. After the
suit had been settled, Williams had occasion to come
again to the house, feeling, no doubt, rather crestfallen.
Mrs. Devereux met him at the door and, making him
a sweeping curtsy, quoted his exact words, making him
welcome to her house.
One of my pleasant memories is connected
with our fishing porch. This was a porch, or
balcony, built upon piles driven into the river upon
one side, and the other resting upon the banks.
It was raised some eight or ten feet above the water
and protected by a strong railing or balustrade and
shaded by the overhanging branches of a large and
beautiful hackberry tree. It made an ideal lounging-place,
upon a soft spring afternoon, when all the river banks
were a mass of tender green, and the soft cooing of
doves filled the air. We usually took Minor with
us to bait our hooks and assist generally, and often
went home by starlight with a glorious string of fish.
The drawback to the plantations upon
the lower Roanoke lay in their liability to being
flooded by the freshets to which the Roanoke was exposed.
These were especially to be dreaded in early spring,
when the snow in the mountains was melting. I
have known freshets in March to inundate the country
for miles. At one time there was not a foot of
dry land upon one of the Runiroi plantations.
It was upon a mild night in that month that I sat
upon the porch nearly all through the night, feeling
too anxious to sleep, for your grandfather, the overseer,
and every man on the plantation were at the river,
working upon the embankments. The back waters
from the swamp had already spread over everything.
This gentle and slow submersion did no great damage,
when there was no growing crop to be injured; the
thing to be guarded against was the breaking of the
river dam and the consequent rushing in of such a
flood as would wash the land into enormous holes, or
“breakovers,” of several acres in extent
in some places, or make great sand ledges in others,
to say nothing of the destruction of fences, the drowning
of stock, etc. On the night that I speak
of, the moon was at its full and glittered upon the
water, rippling all around where dry land should have
been. I sat listening anxiously and occasionally
shuddering at a sharp cracking noise, like a pistol
shot, and, following upon it, the rushing of water
into some plantation up the river. Once in the
night I heard a noise and, upon my calling to know
who it was, a man replied that they had come up in
a canoe to get some water. I could not help laughing;
it struck me that water was rather too plentiful just
then. They worked upon the dam until there was
no more material to work with, water being level with
the top on both sides and only a foot of standing-room
at the top, so, having done all that they could, all
hands took to canoes and went to their homes.
That “March freshet” did incalculable damage
to the whole region, but still fine crops were made
that season. Your grandfather was indefatigable
while anything could be done, but, having done all
that human energy could, he would resign himself cheerfully
to the inevitable, and his family never were saddened
by depression on his part. This wonderful elasticity
was most noticeable at the fearful period of the surrender
and, indeed, through all the succeeding years, when
this power of his, despite all of our losses and anxieties,
made our life one of great happiness.
When, during the winter months, a
moderate freshet meant nothing more serious than the
flooding of the low grounds, it was considered rather
a benefit, owing to the rich deposit left upon the
land, besides the advantages gained in floating out
lumber from the swamps. This March freshet caused
great pecuniary loss; new dams had to be constructed
at a heavy expense, and many miles of repairing had
to be done to those left standing. The few days
before the water had reached its height were most
trying to the nerves (that is, my nerves). I believe
my fears culminated upon the night that I saw the
water rippling over our own doorstep and realized
that there was not a foot of dry land visible for
miles; by morning, though, the river was “at
a stand,” and by evening little spots of green
were showing themselves in the yard and garden.
The word garden recalls to my memory
our pretty garden, a most beautiful continuation of
the smooth green yard, its many alleys bordered with
flowers and flowering shrubs. It was, I own, laid
out in a stiff, old-fashioned manner, very different
from the present and far more picturesque style; still,
it was charming, the profusion of flowers,
fed by that wonderful river loam, exceeded anything
that I have ever seen elsewhere. In the springtime,
what with the flowers, the beautiful butterflies,
and the humming-birds, the sunny air would actually
seem to quiver with color and life.
Every plantation had a set of buildings
which included generally the overseer’s house,
ginhouse, screw, barn, stable, porkhouse, smokehouse,
storehouse, carpenter’s shop, blacksmith shop,
and loomhouse, where the material for clothing for
each plantation was woven, white cloth
for the underclothes, and very pretty striped or checked
for outer garments. At Runiroi, the weaver, Scip,
was a first-class workman, and very proud of his work.
I often had sets of very pretty towels woven in a
damask pattern of mixed flax and cotton. The
winter clothing was of wool, taken from our own sheep.
The carpenters at Runiroi were Jim,
the head carpenter, Austin, and Bill, who were all
good workmen. Frank, “Boat Frank,”
as he was called, from having formerly served as captain
of the old flat-bottomed scow which carried the sale
crop to Plymouth, was also in the shop and did beautiful
work. I was fond of visiting Jim’s shop
and ordering all sorts of wooden ware, pails, piggins,
trays, etc.; these last, dug out of bowl-gum,
were so white that they looked like ivory. Boat
Frank was very proud of the smoothness and polish of
his trays. Our children, with their mammy, were
fond of visiting “Uncle Jim’s” shop
and playing with such tools as he considered safe for
them to handle, while Mammy, seated upon a box by
the small fire, would indulge in long talks about
religion or plantation gossip. That shop was
indeed a typical spot; its sides were lined to the
eaves with choice lumber, arranged systematically
so that the green was out of reach, while that which
was seasoned was close at hand. Uncle Jim would
have felt disgraced had a piece of work made of unseasoned
wood left his shop. The smoke from the small
fire which burned in the middle of the big shop, upon
the dirt floor, escaped in faint blue wreaths through
the roof, leaving behind it a sweet, pungent odor.
The sun streamed in at the wide-open door, while Jim
and Frank tinkered away leisurely upon plough handles
and other implements or household articles.
Uncle Jim was a preacher as well as
a carpenter. He was quite superior to most of
his race, both in sense and principle and was highly
thought of by both white and black. Upon two Sundays
in each month he preached in the church and his sermons
were quite remarkable, teaching in his homely way
the necessity of honesty and obedience. His companion
in the shop, Boat Frank, was of a more worldly nature,
and wore great golden hoops in his ears and a red
woolen cap upon his head, and resembled an elderly
and crafty ape, as he sat chipping away at his work.
Next came the blacksmith shop, where
Bob wielded the great hammer and grinned with childish
delight at seeing the children’s enjoyment when
the sparks flew.
After the blacksmith’s shop
came the loomhouse, where Scip, the little fat weaver,
threw the shuttles and beat up the homespun cloth
from morning till night; there, too, were the warping-bars,
the winding-blades, and the little quilling-wheel,
at which a boy or girl would fill the quills to be
in readiness for the shuttles. Scip was an odd
figure, with his short legs, and his woolly hair combed
out until his head looked as big as a bushel.
The dwellings of the negroes were
quite a distance from the “Great House,”
as that of the master was called, and were built in
two or more long rows with a street between.
This was the plan upon every plantation. Each
house had a front and back piazza, and a garden, which
was cultivated or allowed to run wild according to
the thrift of the residents. It generally was
stocked with peach and apple trees, and presented
a pretty picture in spring, when the blue smoke from
the houses curled up to the sky amid the pink blossoms,
while the drowsy hum of a spinning-wheel seemed to
enhance the quiet of the peaceful surroundings.
The church at Runiroi was large and
comfortably furnished with seats; colored texts were
upon the walls, and the bell, which summoned the people
on Sunday mornings, swung amid the branches of a giant
oak. Both your great-grandfather and grandfather
employed a chaplain. At Runiroi, he officiated
only upon alternate Sundays, as the people liked best
to listen to Carpenter Jim. It used to be a pretty
sight upon a Sunday morning to see the people, all
dressed in their clean homespun clothes, trooping
to church, laughing and chattering until they reached
the door, when they immediately would assume the deepest
gravity and proceed at once to groan and shake themselves
more and more at every prayer. The singing would
often sound very sweet at a distance, although I must
confess that I never sympathized in the admiration
of the negro’s voice.
Of course, like all other laboring
classes, the negroes had to work, and of course, as
they had not the incentive of poverty, discipline
was necessary. They knew that they would be housed,
clothed and well fed whether they earned these comforts
or not; so, in order to insure diligence, reliable
men were chosen from among them as assistants to the
white overseers; these were called “foremen,”
and were looked up to with respect by their fellows.
Upon every large plantation there was also a Foreman
Plower, his business being to take the lead and see
that the plowing was well done and that the plow horses
were not maltreated. With the settled men this
was unnecessary, but it was very needful with the
younger hands. These colored foremen were, in
their turn, subject to the overseers, who, in turn,
if not found to be temperate and reliable, were dismissed.
Upon well-ordered plantations punishments were rare,
I may say unknown, except to the half-grown youths.
Negroes, being somewhat lacking in moral sense or fixed
principles, are singularly open to the influence of
example; and thus it was that a few well-ordered elders
would give a tone to the whole plantation, while the
evil influences of one ill-disposed character would
be equally pronounced.
The plantations of which I am speaking
were singularly remote, being so surrounded by other
large plantations that they were exempt from all outside
and pernicious influences. The one or two country
stores at which the negroes traded might have furnished
whiskey, had not those who kept them stood too much
in awe of the planters to incur the risk of their
displeasure. As the town of Halifax could boast
of several little stores, and was the trading post
of Feltons, Conacanara, and Montrose, your great-grandfather,
in order to prevent the evils of promiscuous trading,
caused certain coins to be struck off, of no value
except to the one merchant with whom his people were
allowed to trade.
Perhaps you will be surprised to know
how important to the country merchants was the trade
of a plantation, so I will explain to you of what
it consisted. Of course, a few of the careless,
content with the abundance provided for them, did
not care to accumulate, while others, naturally thrifty,
amassed a good deal from the sale of otter, coon,
mink, and other skins of animals trapped. Then,
some owned as many as thirty beehives. One old
woman, known as “Honey Beck,” once hauled
thirty or more gallons of honey to Halifax and back
again, the whole distance (twenty-five miles), rather
than take a low price for it. Besides skins,
honey, and beeswax, eggs and poultry were always salable.
One of my necessities in housekeeping was a bag of
small change, and, as I never refused to take what
was brought to me, my pantry was often so overstocked
with eggs and my coops with ducks and chickens, that
it was a hard matter to know how to consume them.
The beautiful white shad, now so highly
prized in our markets, were then a drug. It was
the prettiest sight in the early dawn of a spring
morning to see the fishermen skimming down the broad
river with their dip-nets poised for a catch.
My opportunities for seeing them at that early hour
were from my bedroom window, when I happened to be
visiting the family at Conacanara. Our home at
Runiroi stood some distance from the river, but the
dwelling at Conacanara was upon a bluff just over
the stream.
Beside the sale crops of cotton and
corn, sweet potatoes were raised in large quantities
for the negroes, to which they were allowed to help
themselves without stint, also a summer patch of coarse
vegetables such as they liked.
The regular food furnished consisted
of corn meal, bacon or pickled pork, varied with beef
in the autumn, when the beeves were fat, salt fish
with less meat when desired, molasses, dried peas and
pumpkins without stint (I mean the peas and pumpkins).
I don’t suppose any laboring class ever lived
in such plenty.
A woman with a family of children
always had the use of a cow, the only proviso being
that she should look after the calf and see that it
did not suffer, for your grandfather was particular
about his ox teams; they were the finest that I ever
saw, and were well blooded, Holstein for
size and Devon for speed and activity.
Our dairy was very pretty; it was
built of immense square logs, with a paved brick floor,
and great broad shelves all around. The roof was
shaded by hackberry trees, and the grass around it
was like velvet, so thick and green. Old Aunt
Betty, who was the dairy woman until she grew too
infirm, was the neatest creature imaginable; she wore
the highest of turbans, and her clothes were spotless.
She took the greatest pride in her dairy; for milk
vessels she used great calibashes with wooden covers,
and, as they naturally were absorbent, it was necessary
to sun one set while another was in use. She kept
them beautifully, and the milk and butter were delicious.
There was a man upon the plantation
called “Shoe Joe,” or “Gentleman
Joe.” He had, when a young man, been body-servant
to his young master George, your great-grandfather’s
brother. I never in my life have seen finer manners
than Joe’s, so deeply respectful, and so full
of courtesy. Notwithstanding his really fine
deportment, Joe’s nature was low and mean, and
something that he did so offended his young master
that, to Joe’s great disgust, he was remanded
back to the plantation and field work. In consequence
of this, he always bore his young master a grudge,
which, of course, he kept to himself. Once, however,
he made some disrespectful speech before old Betty,
who was devoted to her Master George, and this so
offended her that she never again spoke to Joe, nor
allowed him to make her shoes, though this last was
more from fear than vindictiveness. For Shoe
Joe was suspected of being a trick negro, and of possessing
the power so to trick his work as to cause the death
of any one wearing his products. Nothing was
productive of more evil upon a plantation than was
the existence upon it of a “Trick” or
“Goomer” negro; and so insidious was their
influence, and so secret their machinations, that,
though suspected, it was impossible to prove anything,
for, although detested by their fellows, fear kept
the latter silent. Nothing would cause such abject
terror as the discovery of an odd-looking bundle, wrapped
and wrapped with strands of horse-hair, secreted beneath
the steps, or laid in an accustomed path. Instantly
after such a discovery the person for whom it was
meant would begin to pine away, and, unless some counter
spell were discovered, death would ensue. These
occurrences, fortunately, were rare, but if the thing
once took root upon a plantation, it wrought much
evil in various ways. Joe was suspected of these
evil practices, and, though a wonderfully capable
man at all kinds of work, and a most accomplished
courtier, was always looked upon with suspicion.
His death was sudden, and the people firmly believed
that he had made a compact with the devil, that the
term had expired, and that Satan had met him in the
woods and broken his neck. He was a tall, finely
formed man, as black as ebony, and his movements always
reminded me of a serpent.
Negroes, even in these days of school
education, retain many of their superstitions, though
ashamed to own it. One of their beliefs was that
the word you meant the devil’s wife, and
it was insulting to address any one by that word.
To one another it was always yinna. So
marked was this custom that the negroes of that section
were known as the yinna negroes. This word, though,
was never used toward their superiors, who were invariably
addressed in the third person. Manuel was rather
a common name among them; there were always two or
three Manuels upon every plantation, and one was always
called “Hoodie Manuel.” No one could
ever discover what this meant; perhaps they did not
know themselves, though I am rather inclined to think
that it was a superstitious observance, understood,
perhaps, only by a select few. I think it must
have had some sort of significance, as it was never
omitted. As soon as one Hoodie Manuel died, another
Manuel assumed the title, though not always the oldest.
It was not required of a woman with
a large family to do field work. Such women had
their regular tasks of spinning allotted to them,
sufficiently light to allow ample time to take care
of their houses and children. The younger women
(unless delicate) left their children in a day nursery
in charge of an elderly woman who was caretaker.
Usually they preferred field work, as being more lively;
but if one disliked it, she usually soon contrived
to be classed among the spinners.
When, occasionally, I happened to
go to any of the houses, often quite unexpectedly,
I can assert truthfully that I never, in a single
instance, saw dirt or squalor in one of them.
The floors were clean, the beds comfortable, with
white and wonderfully clean blankets. Everything,
though very homely, with clumsy benches and tables,
looked white and thoroughly clean. I remember
hearing your grandfather speak of once going at breakfast
time to a house to visit a sick child. The man
of the house was seated at a small table while his
wife served him. The table was covered with an
immaculately clean homespun cloth, and coffee, in
a tin pot shining with scrubbing, either sugar or
molasses, I forget which, a dish of beautifully fried
bacon and hoe-cakes, fresh from the fire, constituted
his plain but most abundant meal.
Separation of families has ever been
a favorite plea for the abolition of slavery, and
I admit that in theory it was a plausible argument;
and justice compels me to say that such instances,
though rare, were not unknown. As a rule, however,
family ties were respected, and when, through the
settlement of an estate, such separations seemed impending,
they were usually prevented by some agreement between
the parties; for instance, if a negro man had married
a woman belonging to another planter, a compromise
was generally effected by the purchase of one of the
parties, regardless of self-interest on the part of
the owners. Thus families were kept together
without regard to any pecuniary loss. Public
sentiment was against the severing of family ties.
Before I close this little sketch
I will tell you as well as I can the outline of plantation
work.
With the beginning of a new year,
the crop being all housed, the sale corn being stored
in large barns or cribs on the river banks, and the
cotton either being sold or kept for better prices,
the plowing, ditching, and, when the swamps were full,
the floating out of timber, were all carried on with
great diligence. At Christmas, when all the clothing,
shoes, and Kilmarnock caps had been given out to the
ditchers, high waterproof boots were distributed.
It was the custom to allow to every man who desired
it a bit of land, upon which, in his spare time, to
cultivate a small crop, for which he was paid the
market price. Christmas was the usual day chosen
for settling these accounts, and the broad piazza
was full of happy, grinning black faces gathered around
the table at which the master sat, with his account-book
and bags of specie. A deep obeisance and a scrape
of the foot accompanied each payment, and many a giggle
was given to the lazy one whose small payment testified
to his indolence. What a contrast between those
happy, sleek, laughing faces and the sullen, careworn,
ill-fed ones of now! In the early springtime,
what was known as the “trash-gang,” that
is, boys and girls who had never worked, were set
to clearing up fences, knocking down cotton stalks,
and burning small trash piles.
I pause here to say that, the woodlands
being a long distance from the quarters, the supply
of fuel was a serious question, and when there was
a threat of snow or increasing cold, every man would
be employed in cutting or hauling a supply of fuel
to the houses.
Planting time began with the middle
of March. In August the crops were “laid
by.” The three days’ holiday began
with the slaughter of pigs and beeves, in preparation
for the annual dinner upon every plantation.
After holiday came the fodder-pulling, a job hated
by all, especially by overseer and master, as the
drenching dews and the hot sun combined to make much
sickness. This work was never begun until late
in the morning, but even after the sun had shone upon
the fields, the people would be drenched in dew to
their waists. Next, the whitening fields told
that cotton-picking must begin, and, later on, a killing
frost upon the already browning shucks sent the great
wagons to the fields, where the corn-gatherers, with
sharp needles tied to their wrists, ripped open the
tough shucks and let loose the well-hardened ears
of grain. As each field became stripped, stock
would be turned in to feast upon the peas and pumpkins.
With winter came that period of bliss
to the soul of Cuffee, namely, the hog-killing, when
even the smallest urchin might revel in grease and
fresh meat.
If eyesight permitted, I might tell
you some tales of plantation doings which might perhaps
amuse you, but I have said enough to give you some
idea of the old Southern life. All that I have
said is within bounds, but, after all, I fear I have
not been able to give you an adequate idea of the
peacefulness and abundance of life upon a great plantation.