In Charing Cross Station one morning,
Mrs. Pitt hurried up to the “booking-office,”
as the English call the ticket-office, to “book”
five tickets to Penshurst. While the man was getting
her change, she turned and said to Philip:
“Please ask that guard who is
standing there, on which platform we shall find the
9.40 train for Penshurst.”
Philip did so, and returned with the
information that they should go to Platform 8.
So they all mounted the steps and walked over the
foot-bridge which always runs across and above all
the tracks, in an English station. There was
a bench on the platform, and they sat down to await
the arrival of the train. About 9.35, five minutes
before the train was to start, John happened to see
a train official sauntering by, and asked him if it
was correct that the Penshurst train left from that
platform.
The man stared. “Really,
you are quite mistaken,” he drawled; “that
train leaves from Platform 2. You had better hurry,
you know; you haven’t much time.”
John waited for nothing more, but
ran to tell the rest, and they all started for the
other end of the station. Up the steep steps again
ran Mrs. Pitt, with the four young people following.
Along the bridge they flew till they reached Platform
2, and then they almost fell down the steps in their
hurry, for the train was already there.
When they were fairly seated in a
third-class carriage, John, still out of breath, exclaimed:
“Whew! My! I never
ran faster in my life, did you, Philip? How the
girls kept up, I don’t know! You’re
a first-class sprinter all right, Mrs. Pitt!
We’d like you on our football team, at home!
My, but I’m hot!”
He paused for breath, and then went on excitedly:
“There was a close call for
you! We’d have lost it if I hadn’t
spoken to that guard, just in fun! There we were
calmly waiting, and all of a sudden, we took that
wild dash across the bridge! It was great!
I hope somebody caught a photograph of us! I’d
like to see one! How stupid of the guard to make
that mistake! They never seem to know very much,
anyway. If I ever am a guard, I shall be different;
I shall know things!”
They all had a good laugh over the
adventure, and Mrs. Pitt assured John that when he
was a guard, they would all promise to use his station.
“Don’t these trains seem
different from ours, Betty?” the future guard
asked of his sister. “It seems so queer
to me why they want to take a perfectly good, long
car, and chop it up from side to side, into little
narrow rooms, like this! What’s the use
of having so many doors? one on each side
of every ‘compartment’! And then,
they put handles only on the outside, so you have
to let down the window and lean away out to open it
for yourself, if the guard doesn’t happen to
do it for you! We Americans couldn’t waste
so much time!”
Just then, Betty, who could contain
herself no longer, burst out laughing.
“Why, what in the world’s the matter?”
cried Barbara.
Betty could only point to a passing
train. “It’s only the funny little
freight cars!” she finally explained, rather
ashamed that she had let her feelings escape in that
way. “They look so silly to us! They
seem about a third the size of the ones at home.
Really, these remind me of a picture in my history-book,
of the first train ever run in America!”
Mrs. Pitt smiled. “Yes,
I can imagine just how strange they must seem to you,
for I remember very well how I felt the first time
I ever rode in one of your trains. To me, one
of the most interesting things about visiting a foreign
country, is to see the different modes of travel.”
“Oh, please understand that
I think so, too!” urged Betty. “It
was only that I couldn’t help laughing just
at first, you see. I wouldn’t have your
trains just like ours for anything, and I’m sure
that John wouldn’t either.”
“Now,” said Mrs. Pitt,
“there is a little confession which I feel that
I ought to make. It’s about where we are
going to-day. Probably most people would blame
me for not taking you to Windsor or Hampton Court,
on your first trip out of town. Both those places
are charming, but I wanted to show you, first of all,
this dear little corner of Kent. All tourists
flock to Windsor and Hampton Court, but a great many
do not know about this tiny, out-of-the-way village,
with which I fell in love years ago. Penshurst
Place was the home of Sir Philip Sidney, and is still
owned by a member of the same family. You know
that Sir Philip lived in Queen Elizabeth’s time,
and that his name stands for the model of a perfect
courtier and ideal gentleman. He died when he
was very young only thirty-two, I think and
he did very little which you would suppose could have
made him so famous. That is, it was little in
comparison with what Raleigh and Drake accomplished,
and yet the name of Sidney ranks with all the rest.
It seems to have been more in the way he did things,
than in what he did. Of course, you remember
the story of his death, that when he was
dying, he passed a cup of water which was brought
him, to another dying soldier, saying, ’Thy
need is greater than mine.’ Well, to-day
we shall see where he was born and bred, where
Ben Jonson, Edmund Spenser, and Queen Elizabeth all
visited.”
They were now riding through Kent,
in which county is some of the most picturesque English
scenery. Although it was only the last of April,
the grass was the freshest green, the great trees were
in full leaf, and primroses were beginning to spring
up in the fields. They sped through little villages
of thatched-roofed cottages, each with its tiny garden
of gay flowers. There were little crooked lanes,
bordered by high hedges, and wide, shady roads, with
tall, stately elms on either side, and fields where
sheep grazed.
“Oh, there’s a cottage
which looks like Anne Hathaway’s!” exclaimed
Betty. “It couldn’t be, could it?
Anyway, it’s real story-book country!”
They left the train at the little
station of Penshurst, two miles from the village.
Behind the building stood a queer, side-seated wagon,
with one stout horse. The driver, when Philip
found him, seemed loath to bestir himself, but was
finally persuaded to drive them to the castle.
Penshurst village proved to be even
prettier than those they had seen from the train.
The Lord of Penshurst Place is a very wise, appreciative
man, and he has made a rule that when any cottage in
the village is found to be beyond repair, it shall
be replaced by a new house exactly like the original.
In consequence, the houses look equally old and equally
attractive, with their roofs of grayish thatch, and
the second stories leaning protectingly over the lower
windows, overgrown with rose-vines.
Mrs. Pitt went into the tiny post-office
to buy their tickets of admission to the castle, and
when she called out that there were also pretty post-cards
to be had, the others quickly followed. Having
chosen their cards, they all walked through the little
church-yard, with its ancient yew trees, and out into
a field from which they could see Penshurst Place
itself.
“Why! isn’t it a huge
place!” cried Barbara. “This is just
as new to Philip and me, you know, Betty, for we have
never been here, either.”
“How charmingly situated it
is!” exclaimed Mrs. Pitt enthusiastically.
“Just a glance at it would tell you that it was
never a strong fortress. Like Raby Castle, another
favorite of mine, I believe that Penshurst never stood
a siege. But it is so stately and graceful, standing
in the center of these perfect lawns and groups of
noble old trees! It is a beautiful contrast to
the many fortress-castles! This seems to speak
of peace, happiness, and safety.”
The castle covers a great deal of
ground, and is low and square, with here and there
a turret. A terrace, or broad walk, runs the length
of the front of the building, where the moat formerly
was, and the party crossed this to reach the entrance-way.
His Lordship came out just then, with his dog, and
glanced kindly at the eager young people. Continuing,
they crossed a square court, and came to a second gateway,
where a servant met them and conducted them into the
old-time Baronial-hall, dating from the fourteenth
century.
“This,” announced the
guide with tremendous pride, “we believe to be
the only banquet-hall now remaining in England, where
the ancient fireplace in the center of the room still
exists. You’ll see many fine halls, but
you’ll not see another such fireplace.”
John went up to investigate, and found
that right in the middle of the vast room was a high
hearth, on which some logs were piled. “But
how ?” he was asking, when the
guide’s explanations flowed on once more:
“Yes, the smoke went out through
a little hole in the roof. This hall has never
been restored, you see. That’s the best
thing about it, most people think, lady. Here’s
the oak paneling, turned gray with age; there, up
on the wall, are the original grotesque figures, carved
in wood; here, are two of the old tables, as old as
the hall; and there’s the musicians’ gallery,
at that end, over the entrance.”
Mrs. Pitt was leaning against one
of the massive tables, with her eyes partly closed.
“Let’s just imagine the grand feasts which
have been held here,” she mused. “I
can almost see the Lord and Lady, dressed in purple
and scarlet, sitting with their guests at a table across
this end of the room. A board stretches down
the length of the hall, and here sit the inferiors
and retainers. A long procession of servants is
winding always around the tables, bearing great roasts,
birds, pasties, and all sorts of goodies, on huge
platters, high above their heads. Up in the gallery
here, the musicians are playing loudly and gayly,
and even when they cease the guests do not lack for
entertainment, for the fool, in his dress of rainbow
colors, is continually saying witty things and propounding
funny riddles. In such a place much elegance
and ceremony were the necessary accompaniments of
a grand feast. In a book giving instructions for
the serving of the Royal table, is this direction,
which always interested me: ’First set
forth mustard with brawn; take your knife in your hand,
and cut the brawn in the dish, as it lieth, and lay
on your Sovereign’s trencher, and see that there
be mustard.’ As you see, they were exceedingly
fond of mustard. Richard Tarleton, an actor of
Queen Elizabeth’s time, who was much at Court
as jester, is reported as having called mustard ’a
witty scold meeting another scold.’”
The guide was growing impatient, and
Mrs. Pitt ceased, saying reluctantly, “Well,
I suppose we must go on.”
A servant rang a bell, and soon, down
some stairs came a dear little old lady dressed in
stiff black silk, with white apron and cap, and mitts
on her hands. She escorted the party up the stairs,
into her domain.
“Wouldn’t you just know
to look at her that she had been in the family all
her life?” whispered Barbara to Betty.
First they saw the Ball-room, a stately
apartment in which hang three very valuable chandeliers,
which Queen Elizabeth gave to Sir Henry Sidney.
The next room is still called “Queen Elizabeth’s
Room,” for here that Queen slept when upon a
visit to the house. The same furniture which
she used is still in place, as well as some tapestries
made in honor of the visit, by Lady Sidney.
“If Queen Elizabeth slept in
that bed,” remarked Betty, “she couldn’t
have been very tall.”
Their guide, taking this as criticism
of one of her beloved treasures, was quick to say:
“It only looks short, because
it’s so uncommon wide, begging your pardon,
Miss.”
“Did that stool belong to anybody?”
questioned Barbara, tactfully changing the subject.
“It looks as if it has a history.”
“And it has, Miss; that stool
was used by the late Queen Victoria (God bless her!),
at her coronation at Westminster Abbey!” and
the loyal old lady patted the black velvet stool respectfully.
The rooms and corridors of the old
house are crowded with things of interest. Sir
Philip’s helmet is there, and a bit of his shaving-glass.
In a small room called the “Pages’ Closet,”
are preserved rare specimens of china Queen
Elizabeth’s dessert-set, in green, and Queen
Anne’s breakfast-set, in blue and white.
Betty and Barbara were deeply interested in Mary Stuart’s
jewel-case, and they laughed over a very curious old
painting which shows Queen Elizabeth dancing.
The long picture-gallery is lined with portraits most
of them Sidneys and among them those of
the mother of Sir Philip, and of his sister, the Countess
of Pembroke, for whom he wrote his “Arcadia.”
When they again passed through the
Ball-room on their way out, they were shown a little
square window on one of the walls, which they had
not noticed before.
“Why! I can see down into
the Banquet-hall!” exclaimed Philip, who had
climbed up to look through.
“Yes,” said their guide,
“in the olden times, the master at the ball
could look through there to see how the servants were
behaving, down in the hall below.”
Out on the lawn again, they lingered
for a few minutes while Mrs. Pitt reminded them that
there is every reason to believe that under those
very trees Spenser wrote his “Shepherd’s
Calendar.”
Reluctantly they left the castle and
walked back to the carriage, which awaited them in
the village.
“If all English castles are
as beautiful as Penshurst Place,” declared Betty
earnestly, “I can’t go back to America
until I have seen every one!”