It was not until they were well on
their way toward Winchester, that Mrs. Pitt found
a chance to tell the young people something about that
ancient city which they were so soon to see.
“Winchester has a cathedral,
hasn’t it?” Betty had inquired. “I
always like to see those.”
“Yes, indeed,” replied
Mrs. Pitt. “There surely is a cathedral,
for it’s the longest one in all Europe with
the exception of St. Peter’s at Rome. I’m
certain you will enjoy that; but what I think you’ll
appreciate even more are the associations which Winchester
has with the life of Alfred the Great. You all
remember about him, don’t you!”
“The fellow who burnt the cakes?”
put in John, jeeringly.
“Yes, but he was also ‘the
fellow’ who led his army at a time when the
country was in great danger who dressed
as a minstrel and dared to go even into the very camp
of the enemy, so as to investigate their movements.
You certainly like that in him, John?”
“I know it! That was great!”
John answered warmly. “Please tell us some
more about him, Mrs. Pitt.”
“To me he has always been one
of the most lovable as well as admirable characters
in all our English history. He came to the throne
at a time when his wise leadership was greatly needed,
and he fought long and valiantly for his country.
When he burnt the cakes, John, it was merely because
his thoughts were so busy with the plans for England’s
future. Alfred made Winchester the capital of
his whole realm, and here he lived with all the court,
when there was peace in the land. Part of Alfred’s
boyhood had been spent here, too, when he was the
pupil of the wise St. Swithin; and, at Winchester,
he made the good and just laws for which he will always
be remembered. Within the walls of old Wolvesley
Castle, the famous ‘Anglo-Saxon Chronicle’
was commenced, at the command of the King. But
besides all these useful deeds, Alfred had such a
beautiful personality that his family and all the
people of his kingdom loved him, and called him ’the
perfect King.’ I have long admired this
little tribute which one historian has given Alfred
the Great. He says this; I think these are the
very words: ’He was loved by his father
and mother, and even by all the people, above all
by his brothers. As he advanced through the years
of infancy and youth, his form appeared more comely
than that of his brothers; in look, in speech, and
in manners, he was more graceful than they. His
noble nature implanted in him from his cradle a love
of wisdom above all things.’ And so, through
all the centuries between his time and ours, King
Alfred’s name has stood for all that is just,
kind, wise, and beautiful.”
“Where was King Alfred buried, Mother?”
asked Barbara.
“I’ll show you his grave or
what is supposed to be his. But here we are at
Winchester now!” cried Mrs. Pitt; “and
the sun has come out just for our special benefit,
too!”
In a “cathedral town,”
one is usually drawn first of all to the cathedral
itself, it being the central point about which the
whole town seems to cluster; and so it was that Mrs.
Pitt led the way down the shaded walk between the
broad stretches of lawn surrounding the great structure.
To her great disappointment, an ugly net-work of staging
entirely spoiled the effect of the exterior of the
building.
“I once read a book which an
American wrote about his trip abroad,” related
Mrs. Pitt. “It amused me very much!
After visiting a really remarkable number of churches
and important buildings which were undergoing reconstruction
or strengthening, this gentleman ventured the belief
that the authorities must have made a mistake in the
date of his arrival, for everything seemed to point
to the preparation of a splendid reception to him
anywhere from a week to a month later. I feel
that way to-day. The Winchester people certainly
could not have expected us just yet. It’s
a pity that we cannot see this grand cathedral at
its best!”
The usual feeling of quiet awe came
over the party upon entering the edifice, and this
was here somehow increased by the vastness of the
interior. Their footsteps echoed strangely on
the stone floor, and looking up at the arches above
her head, Betty began to walk about on tiptoe.
“The marriage of Queen Mary
with Philip of Spain took place in this cathedral,”
Mrs. Pitt said. “In Bishop Langton’s
Chapel here, is an old chair said to have been used
by the Queen at the ceremony. Notice the six
wooden chests above that screen. They contain
the bones of some of the old, old kings William
Rufus, Canute, Egbert, Ethelwolf, and others.
Once upon a time, there was a very famous shrine here that
of St. Swithin. You remember the legend which
tells how the body of that saint was delayed from
being removed to the chapel already fitted to receive
it, by forty days of rain. That’s why when
we have nasty, rainy weather in England, we always
blame St. Swithin.
“I’ll show you the tomb
of the well-known authoress, Jane Austen, and that
of Izaak Walton, who is buried in one of the chapels.
The former lived her last days and died in this town,
and it was in the little river Itchen which flows
through Winchester, that Izaak Walton used to fish.
They were both laid to rest here in the cathedral,
near the scenes which they dearly loved.”
The environs of the cathedral are
very pretty, and one of the most picturesque features
is the old Deanery, where Charles II once lodged.
Just outside the cathedral close is the modest little
house which was Jane Austen’s home.
Winchester School was visited, a
very famous old institution which is connected with
New College, Oxford, and was built by William of Wykeham
in 1396, and the vine-covered ruins of old
Wolvesley Castle, which stand on the outskirts of
the town, and near the river.
“Didn’t you say that this
was where King Alfred had them write the ’Anglo-Saxon
Chronicle’?” Betty asked of Mrs. Pitt.
“Will you please tell us what that was?
I don’t seem to remember very well.”
“Well, dear, the ‘Anglo-Saxon
Chronicle’ is the ’first history of the
English People,’ as some one has correctly said.
Part of it was written by Alfred himself, and the
rest was done by others, under his direction.
It is simply a record of all important events which
were written down as they took place. The ‘Chronicle’
grew and grew for about two hundred and fifty years,
the last mention being of the accession to the throne
of Henry II, in 1154. For many years it was kept
here at its birthplace, but it has now been moved to
the library of Corpus Christi College at Oxford.
You see, therefore, that this important work really
marked the start of the wonderful succession of literary
productions which Englishmen have brought forth in
these one thousand years.”
Quite at the other end of the town
from Wolvesley Castle is the County Court, a fine
old hall, which once upon a time formed part of a castle
built by William the Conqueror. Mrs. Pitt had
some difficulty in finding the caretaker who could
admit them, and not until they were actually inside
did the children understand why she was so very anxious
that they should see it.
Many were the exclamations of delight,
however, when the guide pointed to the wall at one
end of the Norman room, and told them that the round,
flat object hanging thereupon was “King Arthur’s
Round Table.”
“What!” cried Betty, her
mouth wide open in her excitement, “the very
table at which the knights sat! Sir Lancelot,
Sir Gawain, Sir Perceval, Sir Galahad, and all the
rest! Why, I never knew it was here, or I should
have come to see it before anything else! To think
of it’s being the real table!”
It was hard for Mrs. Pitt to tell
Betty that all the legends concerning this table are
pure fiction. “Not all authorities consider
its identity absolutely certain,” she admitted
unwillingly, “but we’re going to believe
in it just the same. It must date from the sixth
century! Fancy! However, it was all repainted
in the time of Henry VIII, and these peculiar stripes
and devices were the work of some sixteenth century
brush.”
Betty sat right down on the floor,
and stared up at the table of her adored King Arthur
and his knights. With much difficulty could Mrs.
Pitt persuade her to leave the hall, and that was not
accomplished until after Betty had trustingly inquired
of the guide whether he knew where the chairs were
in which the knights sat when they gathered about
the table, for “she’d like so much to find
them right away.”
Passing under a gate of the old city-wall,
and along the quaint streets of the town, the party
came to Hyde Abbey, or what little now
remains of it.
“Alfred’s body was first
buried in the old minster (cathedral); then it was
carried to the new; and last of all, it was removed
by the monks here to Hyde Abbey, which monastery Alfred
himself had founded. In the eighteenth century
the Abbey was almost entirely destroyed, and then
it was that Alfred’s true burial-place was lost
sight of. Later still, in making some excavations
here, the workmen found an ancient coffin which was
examined and believed to be that of the King.
Reverently it was reburied and marked with a flat stone,
and this doubtful grave is the only trace we now have
of Alfred the Great.” They had all quietly
followed Mrs. Pitt to the spot where, across the way
from the Abbey, they saw the grave.
Before returning to the hotel that
night, Mrs. Pitt suggested that they go to see the
old Hospital of St. Cross.
“It’s only about a mile
from the town,” she said. “There’s
a charming little path along the banks of the Itchen,
and I think we’d enjoy the walk in the cool
of the afternoon.”
Mrs. Pitt was quite correct.
It proved a delightful stroll, leading them to the
fertile valley in which Henry de Blois built his Hospital
of St. Cross, by the side of the pleasant little river.
“The Hospital was really founded
by Henry de Blois, but three centuries later, Cardinal
Beaufort took much interest in it, made some changes
and improvements, and greatly aided in its support,”
the children were told. “To this day, there
is a distinction between the St. Cross Brethren and
the Beaufort Brethren, but this is chiefly confined
to the matter of dress. Seventeen men are living
here now, and are most kindly treated, fed, clothed,
and allowed to plant and tend their own tiny gardens.”
But the most interesting feature of
St. Cross that which in so remarkably vivid
a way holds its connection with the past is
the dole. Since the reign of King Stephen, no
one applying for food or drink at the Beaufort Tower
of St. Cross Hospital, has ever been turned away.
To each has been given, during all the centuries, a
drink of beer and a slice of bread. A slight
distinction is made between visitors by the scrutiny
of the Brethren; for, to the tramp is handed a long
draught of beer from a drinking-horn and a huge piece
of bread, while to some are offered the old silver-mounted
cup, and wooden platter.
“Can we have some?” John
inquired. “I think I might not like the
beer, but the bread would be all right, and I’m
hungry!”
In spite of Betty’s reproving
cry of “Why, John!” Mrs. Pitt motioned
him to go up to the gate, and ring.
“Yes, it’s quite proper
for us to apply for the dole,” she said.
“Emerson and Carlyle once did so, and I imagine
they were not in any greater need of it than are we.”
As John received his portions and
was looking at them a bit dubiously, Philip called
out to him, “Don’t take so much that you
can’t eat your dinner, Jack!” and then,
seeing that John had already set down the food untouched,
they all laughed merrily.
After breakfasting at Winchester the
following morning, an early train carried the party
to the town of Salisbury, there to see the fairest
of the English cathedrals, that is, in Mrs.
Pitt’s opinion, of course.
To say that Salisbury Cathedral stands
in the center of a velvet-like lawn, to mention the
fact that a little stream flows musically by, to add
that the towers and lines of the building itself are
wonderfully graceful, is attempting to describe things
as they exist, but wholly inadequate in the impression
which it gives to the reader. There is an indescribable
fascination about Salisbury Cathedral, which a person
must see to understand. Any one who is at all
responsive to the charm of great architecture, can
sit for hours under the old trees on the little common,
and drink in the whole scene, the beautiful
building with its delicate shapes outlined in shadows
upon the green grass.
“No doubt it is a generally
accepted fact that Lincoln is the finest of the English
cathedrals,” Mrs. Pitt explained after a time.
“Perhaps Durham comes next in line, and Canterbury
has great historical interest. I only assert
that to me Salisbury is the most beautiful. You
know, Betty, that the construction of most cathedrals
was extended over many years, even many
generations, usually. Salisbury was an exception
to that rule, for it was begun and finished within
forty years (1220 to 1260), and therefore has rare
harmony and uniformity of style.”
There are many quaint streets and
buildings in the town of Salisbury, but these become
familiar though always delightful sights to the visitor
who gives a good share of his time to old England.
Having noted the old-fashioned King’s Arms Inn,
which was a secret meeting-place of the Royalists
after the battle of Worcester, the party had an early
lunch, and then set out to drive the ten miles to
Stonehenge.
The road which they took begins to
ascend gradually, and after about a mile and a half
brought them to the high mound which was once “the
largest entrenched camp in the kingdom,” according
to Betty’s leather-covered Baedeker. This
was the site of Old Sarum, a fort during the Roman
occupation, and afterwards a Saxon town. Numerous
interesting remains of the camp are here, and the high
elevation affords an excellent view of Salisbury and
the surrounding country.
The rest of the drive was not particularly
enjoyable. A sharp wind blew over the high Salisbury
Plains, which are bare and not very picturesque to
see. In the center of this great stretch of plain
stands that strange relic of the past known as Stonehenge.
Being on an elevation, the stones stand out weirdly
against the sky as the visitor approaches, and give
him a foretaste of the peculiar mystery which pervades
the place.
The section is surrounded by a wire
fence, and a man collects a fee of a shilling before
admitting any one into the company of these gigantic
rocks, which are standing or lying about in various
positions. It seems as though there were originally
two great circles, one inside the other, formed by
huge oblong stones, set up on end as a child might
arrange his blocks. On the tops of these, others
are in some places still poised, though many have
fallen. One great stone lies broken across the
altar.
After the young people had climbed
about and thoroughly explored the ruins, they gathered
around Mrs. Pitt to hear her explanation of the place.
“Well,” she began, “it
is generally believed that we see here the remains
of an ancient temple of the Druids. They were
half-mythical creatures who are thought to have inhabited
England in prehistoric times. They worshiped
Nature, particularly the Sun, and lived
out-of-doors entirely. Most people consider them
to have been the originators of this strange work,
though it has also been attributed to the Saxons,
the Danes, and, I believe, even the Phoenicians.
But no matter what people were the real builders,
there still remains the question of how these tremendous
stones were brought here in days when there was no
machinery, and in a district near which no stone-quarries
could possibly have been. That has puzzled men
in all ages.”
The laughter and chatter of the members
of a large “Personally Conducted” party,
who were having their late lunch in the field just
outside the picket-fence, grated upon Mrs. Pitt’s
nerves. Even more than in a cathedral with solid
walls and a roof, here in this open-air, ruined temple,
dating from unknown ages, one is filled with deepest
reverence. It almost seems possible to see the
ancient Druids who worshiped there, dressed in robes
of purest white.
In spite of the blue sky, the bright
sunshine of early afternoon, and the nearness of very
noisy, human tourists, Betty so felt the strange atmosphere
which envelopes these huge sentinels of the past, that
she suddenly exclaimed:
“Oh, please, Mrs. Pitt, let’s
go back to Salisbury! I can’t bear this
any longer.”
So they drove slowly away over the
fields, and as Mrs. Pitt turned for a last glance
behind, she saw the stones looming up in lonely majesty,
and thought to herself, “They have a secret which
no one will ever know.”