When Messrs. Macmillan asked me to
write a preface to this new edition of Miss Edgeworth’s
stories I thought I should like to see the place where
she had lived so long and where she had written so
much, and so it happened that being in Ireland early
this year, my daughter and I found ourselves driving
up to Broadstone Station one morning in time for the
early train to Edgeworthstown. As we got out of
our cab we asked the driver what the fare should be.
‘Sure the fare is half a crown,’ said
he, ‘and if you wish to give me more, I could
keep it for myself!’
The train was starting and we bought
our papers to beguile the road. ‘Will you
have a Home Rule paper or one of them others?’
said the newsboy, with such a droll emphasis that
we couldn’t help laughing. ‘Give
me one of each,’ said I; then he laughed, as
no English newsboy would have done. . . . We
went along in the car with a sad couple of people
out of a hospital, compatriots of our own, who had
been settled ten years in Ireland, and were longing
to be away. The poor things were past consolation,
dull, despairing, ingrained English, sick and suffering
and yearning for Brixton, just as other aliens long
for their native hills and moors. We travelled
along together all that spring morning by the blossoming
hedges, and triumphal arches of flowering May; the
hills were very far away, but the lovely lights and
scents were all about and made our journey charming.
Maynooth was a fragrant vision as we flew past, of
vast gardens wall-enclosed, of stately buildings.
The whole line of railway was sweet with the May flowers,
and with the pungent and refreshing scent of the turf-bogs.
The air was so clear and so limpid that we could see
for miles, and short-sighted eyes needed no glasses
to admire with. Here and there a turf cabin, now
and then a lake placidly reflecting the sky.
The country seemed given over to silence, the light
sped unheeded across the delicate browns and greens
of the bog-fields; or lay on the sweet wonderful green
of the meadows. One dazzling field we saw full
of dancing circles of little fairy pigs with curly
tails. Everything was homelike but not England,
there was something of France, something of Italy
in the sky; in the fanciful tints upon the land and
sea, in the vastness of the picture, in the happy
sadness and calm content which is so difficult to describe
or to account for. Finally we reached our journey’s
end. It gave one a real emotion to see Edgeworthstown
written up on the board before us, and to realise
that we were following in the steps of those giants
who had passed before us. The master of Edgeworthstown
kindly met us and drove us to his home through the
outlying village, shaded with its sycamores, underneath
which pretty cows were browsing the grass. We
passed the Roman Catholic Church, the great iron crucifix
standing in the churchyard. Then the horses turned
in at the gate of the park, and there rose the old
home, so exactly like what one expected it, that I
felt as if I had been there before in some other phase
of existence.
It is certainly a tradition in the
family to welcome travellers! I thought of the
various memoirs I had read, of the travellers arriving
from the North and the South and the West; of Scott
and Lockhart, of Pictet, of the Ticknors, of the many
visitants who had come up in turn; whether it is the
year 14, or the year 94, the hospitable doors open
kindly to admit them. There were the French windows
reaching to the ground, through which Maria used to
pass on her way to gather her roses; there was the
porch where Walter Scott had stood; there grew the
quaint old-fashioned bushes with the great pink peonies
in flower, by those railings which still divide the
park from the meadows beyond; there spread the branches
of the century-old trees. Only last winter they
told us the storms came and swept away a grove of
Beeches that were known in all the country round,
but how much of shade, of flower, still remain!
The noble Hawthorn of stately growth, the pine-trees
(there should be names for trees, as there are
for rocks or ancient strongholds). Mr. Edgeworth
showed us the oak from Jerusalem, the grove of cypress
and sycamore where the beautiful depths of ground
ivy are floating upon the debris, and soften
the gnarled roots, while they flood the rising banks
with green.
Mr. and Mrs. Edgeworth brought us
into the house. The ways go upstairs and downstairs,
by winding passages and side gates; a pretty domed
staircase starts from the central hall, where stands
that old clock-case which Maria wound up when she
was over eighty years old. To the right and to
the left along the passages were rooms opening from
one into another. I could imagine Sir Walter’s
kind eyes looking upon the scene, and Wordsworth coming
down the stairs, and their friendly entertainer making
all happy, and all welcome in turn; and their hostess,
the widowed Mrs. Edgeworth, responding and sympathising
with each. We saw the corner by the fire where
Maria wrote; we saw her table with its pretty curves
standing in its place in the deep casements. Miss
Edgeworth’s own room is a tiny little room above
looking out on the back garden. This little closet
opens from a larger one, and then by a narrow flight
of stairs leads to a suite of ground-floor chambers,
following one from another, lined with bookcases and
looking on the gardens. What a strange fellow-feeling
with the past it gave one to stand staring at the
old books, with their paper backs and old-fashioned
covers, at the gray boards, which were the liveries
of literature in those early days; at the first editions,
with their inscriptions in the author’s handwriting,
or in Maria’s pretty caligraphy. There was
the pirate in its original volumes, and Mackintosh’s
memoirs, and Mrs. Barbauld’s essays,
and Descartes’s essays, that Arthur Hallam
liked to read; Hallam’s constitutional
history, and Rogers’s poems, were there
all inscribed and dedicated. Not less interesting
were the piles of Magazines that had been sent from
America. I never knew before how many Magazines
existed even those early days; we took some down at
hazard and read names, dates, and initials. . . .
Storied urn and monumental bust do not bring back
the past as do the books which belong to it. Storied
urns are in churches and stone niches, far removed
from the lives of which they speak; books seem a part
of our daily life, and are like the sound of a voice
just outside the door. Here they were, as they
had been read by her, stored away by her hands, and
still safely preserved, bringing back the past with,
as it were, a cheerful encouraging greeting to the
present. Other relics there are of course, but,
as I say, none which touch one so vividly. There
is her silver ink-stand, the little table her father
left her on which she wrote (it had belonged to his
mother before him). There is also a curious trophy a
table which was sent to her from Edinburgh, ornamented
by promiscuous views of Italy, curiously inappropriate
to her genius; but not so the inscription, which is
quoted from Sir Walter Scott’s Preface to his
Collected Edition, and which may as well be quoted
here: ’Without being so presumptuous
as to hope to emulate the
rich humour, the pathetic tenderness,
and admirable truth which pervade
the works of my accomplished
friend,’ Sir Walter wrote, I felt
that something might be attempted
for my own country of the
same kind as that which Miss
Edgeworth so fortunately achieved
for Ireland.’
In the memoirs of Miss Edgeworth
there is a pretty account of her sudden burst of feeling
when this passage so unexpected, and so deeply felt
by her, was read out by one of her sisters, at a time
when Maria lay weak and recovering from illness in
Edgeworthstown.
Our host took us that day, among other
pleasant things, for a marvellous and delightful flight
on a jaunting car, to see something of the country.
We sped through storms and sunshine, by open moors
and fields, and then by villages and little churches,
by farms where the pigs were standing at the doors
to be fed, by pretty trim cottages. The lights
came and went; as the mist lifted we could see the
exquisite colours, the green, the dazzling sweet lights
on the meadows, playing upon the meadow-sweet and
elder bushes; at last we came to the lovely glades
of Carriglass. It seemed to me that we had reached
an enchanted forest amid this green sweet tangle of
ivy, of flowering summer trees, of immemorial oaks
and sycamores.
A squirrel was darting up the branches
of a beautiful spreading beech-tree, a whole army
of rabbits were flashing with silver tails into the
brushwood; swallows, blackbirds, peacock-butterflies,
dragonflies on the wing, a mighty sylvan life was
roaming in this lovely orderly wilderness.
The great Irish kitchen garden, belonging
to the house, with its seven miles of wall, was also
not unlike a part of a fairy tale. Its owner,
Mr. Lefroy, told me that Miss Edgeworth had been constantly
there. She was a great friend of Judge Lefroy.
As a boy he remembered her driving up to the house
and running up through the great drawing-room doors
to greet the Judge.
Miss Edgeworth certainly lived in
a fair surrounding, and, with Sophia Western, must
have gone along the way of life heralded by sweetest
things, by the song of birds, by the gold radiance
of the buttercups, by the varied shadows of those
beautiful trees under which the cows gently tread
the grass. English does not seem exactly the language
in which to write of Ireland, with its sylvan wonders
of natural beauty. Madame de Sevigne’s
descriptions of her woods came to my mind. It
is not a place which delights one by its actual sensual
beauty, as Italy does; it is not as in England, where
a thousand associations link one to every scene and
aspect Ireland seems to me to contain some
unique and most impersonal charm, which is quite unwritable.
All that evening we sat talking with
our hosts round the fire (for it was cold enough for
a fire), and I remembered that in Miss Edgeworth’s
memoirs it was described how the snow lay upon
the ground and upon the land, when the family came
home in June to take possession of Edgeworthstown.
As I put out my candle in the spacious
guest-chamber I wondered which of its past inhabitants
I should wish to see standing in the middle of the
room. I must confess that the thought of the beautiful
Honora filled me with alarm, and if Miss Seward had
walked in in her pearls and satin robe I should have
fled for my life. As I lay there experimentalising
upon my own emotions I found that after all, natural
simple people do not frighten one whether dead or
alive. The thought of them is ever welcome; it
is the artificial people who are sometimes one thing,
sometimes another, and who form themselves on the weaknesses
and fancies of those among whom they live, who are
really terrifying.
The shadow of the bird’s wing
flitted across the window of my bedroom, and the sun
was shining next morning when I awoke. I could
see the cows, foot deep in the grass under the hawthorns.
After breakfast we went out into the grounds and through
an arched doorway into the kitchen garden. It
might have been some corner of Italy or the South of
France; the square tower of the granary rose high
against the blue, the gray walls were hung with messy
fruit trees, pigeons were darting and flapping their
wings, gardeners were at work, the very vegetables
were growing luxuriant and romantic and edged by thick
borders of violet pansy; crossing the courtyard, we
came into the village street, also orderly and white-washed.
The soft limpid air made all things into pictures,
into Turners, into Titians. A Murillo-like boy,
with dark eyes, was leaning against a wall, with his
shadow, watching us go by; strange old women, with
draperies round their heads, were coming out of their
houses. We passed the Post-Office, the village
shops, with their names, the Monaghans and Gerahtys,
such as we find again in Miss Edgeworth’s novels.
We heard the local politics discussed over the counter
with a certain aptness and directness which struck
me very much. We passed the boarding-house, which
was not without its history a long low building
erected by Mr. and Miss Edgeworth for a school, where
the Sandfords and Mertons of those days were to be
brought up together: a sort of foreshadowing
of the High Schools of the present. Mr. Edgeworth
was, as we know, the very spirit of progress, though
his experiment did not answer at the time. At
the end of the village street, where two roads divide,
we noticed a gap in the decent roadway a
pile of ruins in a garden. A tumble-down cottage,
and beyond the cottage, a falling shed, on the thatched
roof of which a hen was clucking and scraping.
These cottages Mr. Edgeworth had, after long difficulty,
bought up and condemned as unfit for human habitation.
The plans had been considered, the orders given to
build new cottages in their place, which were to be
let to the old tenants at the old rent, but the last
remaining inhabitant absolutely refused to leave;
we saw an old woman in a hood slowly crossing the
road, and carrying a pail for water; no threats or
inducements would move her, not even the sight of a
neat little house, white-washed and painted, and all
ready for her to step into. Her present rent
was 10d. a week, Mr. Edgeworth told me, and she had
been letting the tumble-down shed to a large family
for 1d. This sub-let was forcibly put an
end to, but the landlady still stops there, and there
she will stay until the roof tumbles down upon her
head. The old creature passed on through the
sunshine, a decrepit, picturesque figure carrying
her pail to the stream, defying all the laws of progress
and political economy and civilisation in her feebleness
and determination.
Most of the women came to their doors
to see us go by. They all looked as old as the
hills some dropt curtseys, others threw
up their arms in benediction. From a cottage
farther up the road issued a strange, shy old creature,
looking like a bundle of hay, walking on bare legs.
She came up with a pinch of snuff, and a shake of
the hand; she was of the family of the man who had
once saved Edgeworthstown from being destroyed by
the rebels. ‘Sure it was not her father,’
said old Peggy,’ it was her grandfather did
it!’ So she explained, but it was hard to believe
that such an old, old creature had ever had a grandfather
in the memory of man.
The glebe lands lie beyond the village.
They reach as far as the church on its high plateau,
from which you can see the Wicklow Hills on a fine
day, and the lovely shifting of the lights of the landscape.
The remains of the great pew of the Edgeworth family,
with its carved canopy of wood, is still a feature
in the bare church from which so much has been swept
away. The names of the fathers are written on
the chancel walls, and a few medallions of daughters
and sisters also. In the churchyard, among green
elder bushes and tall upspringing grasses, is the square
monument erected to Mr. Edgeworth and his family; and
as we stood there the quiet place was crossed and
recrossed by swallows with their beating crescent
wings.