The short journey from Plotzk to Vilna
was uneventful. Station after station was passed
without our taking any interest in anything, for that
never-to-be-forgotten leave taking at the Plotzk railway
station left us all in such a state of apathy to all
things except our own thoughts as could not easily
be thrown off. Indeed, had we not been obliged
to change trains at Devinsk and, being the inexperienced
travellers we were, do a great deal of bustling and
hurrying and questioning of porters and mere idlers,
I do not know how long we would have remained in that
same thoughtful, silent state.
Towards evening we reached Vilna,
and such a welcome as we got! Up to then I had
never seen such a mob of porters and isvostchiky.
I do not clearly remember just what occurred, but
a most vivid recollection of being very uneasy for
a time is still retained in my memory. You see
my uncle was to have met us at the station, but urgent
business kept him elsewhere.
Now it was universally believed in
Plotzk that it was wise not to trust the first isvostchik
who offered his services when one arrived in Vilna
a stranger, and I do not know to this day how mother
managed to get away from the mob and how, above all,
she dared to trust herself with her precious baggage
to one of them. But I have thought better of Vilna
Isvostchiky since, for we were safely landed after
a pretty long drive in front of my uncle’s store,
with never one of our number lost, never a bundle
stolen or any mishap whatever.
Our stay in Vilna was marked by nothing
of interest. We stayed only long enough for some
necessary papers to reach us, and during that time
I discovered that Vilna was very much like Plotzk,
though larger, cleaner and noisier. There were
the same coarse, hoarse-voiced women in the market,
the same kind of storekeepers in the low store doors,
forever struggling and quarrelling for a customer.
The only really interesting things I remember were
the horsecars, which I had never even heard of, and
in one of which I had a lovely ride for five copeiky,
and a large book store on the Nemetzka yah Ulitza.
The latter object may not seem of any interest to
most people, but I had never seen so many books in
one place before, and I could not help regarding them
with longing and wonder.
At last all was in readiness for our
start. This was really the beginning of our long
journey, which I shall endeavor to describe.
I will not give any description of
the various places we passed, for we stopped at few
places and always under circumstances which did not
permit of sightseeing. I shall only speak of such
things as made a distinct impression upon my mind,
which, it must be remembered, was not mature enough
to be impressed by what older minds were, while on
the contrary it was in just the state to take in many
things which others heeded not.
I do not know the exact date, but
I do know that it was at the break of day on a Sunday
and very early in April when we left Vilna. We
had not slept any the night before. Fannie and
I spent the long hours in playing various quiet games
and watching the clock. At last the long expected
hour arrived; our train would be due in a short time.
All but Fannie and myself had by this time fallen
into a drowse, half sitting, half lying on some of
the many baskets and boxes that stood all about the
room all ready to be taken to the station. So
we set to work to rouse the rest, and with the aid
of an alarm clock’s loud ringing, we soon had
them at least half awake; and while the others sat
rubbing their eyes and trying to look wide awake,
Uncle Borris had gone out, and when he returned with
several droskies to convey us to the station, we were
all ready for the start.
We went out into the street, and now
I perceived that not we alone were sleepy; everything
slept, and nature also slept, deeply, sweetly.
The sky was covered with dark gray
clouds (perhaps that was its night-cap), from which
a chill, drizzling rain was slowly descending, and
the thick morning fog shut out the road from our sight.
No sound came from any direction; slumber and quiet
reigned everywhere, for every thing and person slept,
forgetful for a time of joys, sorrows, hopes, fears, everything.
Sleepily we said our last good-byes
to the family, took our seats in the droskies, and
soon the Hospitalnayah Ulitza was lost to sight.
As the vehicles rattled along the deserted streets,
the noise of the horses’ hoofs and the wheels
striking against the paving stones sounded unusually
loud in the general hush, and caused the echoes to
answer again and again from the silent streets and
alleys.
In a short time we were at the station.
In our impatience we had come too early, and now the
waiting was very tiresome. Everybody knows how
lively and noisy it is at a railroad station when a
train is expected. But now there were but a few
persons present, and in everybody’s face I could
see the reflection of my own dissatisfaction, because,
like myself, they had much rather have been in a comfortable,
warm bed than up and about in the rain and fog.
Everything was so uncomfortable.
Suddenly we heard a long shrill whistle,
to which the surrounding dreariness gave a strangely
mournful sound, the clattering train rushed into the
depot and stood still. Several passengers (they
were very few) left the cars and hastened towards
where the droskies stood, and after rousing the sleepy
isvostchiky, were whirled away to their several destinations.
When we had secured our tickets and
seen to the baggage we entered a car in the women’s
division and waited impatiently for the train to start.
At last the first signal was given, then the second
and third; the locomotive shrieked and puffed, the
train moved slowly, then swiftly it left the depot
far behind it.
From Vilna to our next stopping place,
Verzbolovo, there was a long, tedious ride of about
eight hours. As the day continued to be dull and
foggy, very little could be seen through the windows.
Besides, no one seemed to care or to be interested
in anything. Sleepy and tired as we all were,
we got little rest, except the younger ones, for we
had not yet got used to living in the cars and could
not make ourselves very comfortable. For the
greater part of the time we remained as unsocial as
the weather was unpleasant. The car was very still,
there being few passengers, among them a very pleasant
kind gentleman travelling with his pretty daughter.
Mother found them very pleasant to chat with, and
we children found it less tiresome to listen to them.
At half past twelve o’clock
the train came to a stop before a large depot, and
the conductor announced “Verzbolovo, fifteen
minutes!” The sight that now presented itself
was very cheering after our long, unpleasant ride.
The weather had changed very much. The sun was
shining brightly and not a trace of fog or cloud was
to be seen. Crowds of well-dressed people were
everywhere walking up and down the platform,
passing through the many gates leading to the street,
sitting around the long, well-loaded tables, eating,
drinking, talking or reading newspapers, waited upon
by the liveliest, busiest waiters I had ever seen and
there was such an activity and bustle about everything
that I wished I could join in it, it seemed so hard
to sit still. But I had to content myself with
looking on with the others, while the friendly gentleman
whose acquaintance my mother had made (I do not recollect
his name) assisted her in obtaining our tickets for
Eidtkunen, and attending to everything else that needed
attention, and there were many things.
Soon the fifteen minutes were up,
our kind fellow-passenger and his daughter bade us
farewell and a pleasant journey (we were just on the
brink of the beginning of our troubles), the train
puffed out of the depot and we all felt we were nearing
a very important stage in our journey. At this
time, cholera was raging in Russia, and was spread
by emigrants going to America in the countries through
which they travelled. To stop this danger, measures
were taken to make emigration from Russia more difficult
than ever. I believe that at all times the crossing
of the boundary between Russia and Germany was a source
of trouble to Russians, but with a special passport
this was easily overcome. When, however, the
traveller could not afford to supply himself with
one, the boundary was crossed by stealth, and many
amusing anecdotes are told of persons who crossed
in some disguise, often that of a mujik who said he
was going to the town on the German side to sell some
goods, carried for the purpose of ensuring the success
of the ruse. When several such tricks had been
played on the guards it became very risky, and often,
when caught, a traveller resorted to stratagem, which
is very diverting when afterwards described, but not
so at a time when much depends on its success.
Some times a paltry bribe secured one a safe passage,
and often emigrants were aided by men who made it their
profession to help them cross, often suffering themselves
to be paid such sums for the service that it paid
best to be provided with a special passport.
As I said, the difficulties were greater
at the time we were travelling, and our friends believed
we had better not attempt a stealthy crossing, and
we procured the necessary document to facilitate it.
We therefore expected little trouble, but some we
thought there might be, for we had heard some vague
rumors to the effect that a special passport was not
as powerful an agent as it used to be.
We now prepared to enjoy a little
lunch, and before we had time to clear it away the
train stopped, and we saw several men in blue uniforms,
gilt buttons and brass helmets, if you may call them
so, on their heads. At his side each wore a kind
of leather case attached to a wide bronze belt.
In these cases they carried something like a revolver,
and each had, besides, a little book with black oilcloth
covers.
I can give you no idea of the impression
these men (they were German gendarmes) made
on us, by saying they frightened us. Perhaps because
their (to us) impressive appearance gave them a stern
look; perhaps because they really looked something
more than grave, we were so frightened. I only
know that we were. I can see the reason now clearly
enough. Like all persons who were used to the
tyranny of a Russian policeman, who practically ruled
the ward or town under his friendly protection, and
never hesitated to assert his rights as holder of
unlimited authority over his little domain, in that
mild, amiable manner so well known to such of his
subjects as he particularly favored with his vigilant
regard like all such persons, I say, we
did not, could not, expect to receive any kind treatment
at the hands of a number of officers, especially as
we were in the very act of attempting to part with
our much-beloved mother country, of which act, to judge
by the pains it took to make it difficult, the government
did not approve. It was a natural fear in us,
as you can easily see. Pretty soon mother recovered
herself, and remembering that the train stops for a
few minutes only, was beginning to put away the scattered
articles hastily when a gendarme entered our car and
said we were not to leave it. Mamma asked him
why, but he said nothing and left the car, another
gendarme entering as he did so. He demanded where
we were going, and, hearing the answer, went out.
Before we had had time to look about at each other’s
frightened faces, another man, a doctor, as we soon
knew, came in followed by a third gendarme.
The doctor asked many questions about
our health, and of what nationality we were.
Then he asked about various things, as where we were
going to, if we had tickets, how much money we had,
where we came from, to whom we were going, etc.,
etc., making a note of every answer he received.
This done, he shook his head with his shining helmet
on it, and said slowly (I imagined he enjoyed frightening
us), “With these third class tickets you cannot
go to America now, because it is forbidden to admit
emigrants into Germany who have not at least second
class tickets. You will have to return to Russia
unless you pay at the office here to have your tickets
changed for second class ones.” After a
few minutes’ calculation and reference to the
notes he had made, he added calmly, “I find
you will need two hundred rubles to get your tickets
exchanged;” and, as the finishing stroke to his
pleasing communication, added, “Your passports
are of no use at all now because the necessary part
has to be torn out, whether you are allowed to pass
or not.” A plain, short speech he made of
it, that cruel man. Yet every word sounded in
our ears with an awful sound that stopped the beating
of our hearts for a while sounded like
the ringing of funeral bells to us, and yet without
the mournfully sweet music those bells make, that they
might heal while they hurt.
We were homeless, houseless, and friendless
in a strange place. We had hardly money enough
to last us through the voyage for which we had hoped
and waited for three long years. We had suffered
much that the reunion we longed for might come about;
we had prepared ourselves to suffer more in order
to bring it about, and had parted with those we loved,
with places that were dear to us in spite of what
we passed through in them, never again to see them,
as we were convinced all for the same dear
end. With strong hopes and high spirits that hid
the sad parting, we had started on our long journey.
And now we were checked so unexpectedly but surely,
the blow coming from where we little expected it, being,
as we believed, safe in that quarter. And that
is why the simple words had such a frightful meaning
to us. We had received a wound we knew not how
to heal.
When mother had recovered enough to
speak she began to argue with the gendarme, telling
him our story and begging him to be kind. The
children were frightened by what they understood,
and all but cried. I was only wondering what
would happen, and wishing I could pour out my grief
in tears, as the others did; but when I feel deeply
I seldom show it in that way, and always wish I could.
Mother’s supplications,
and perhaps the children’s indirect ones, had
more effect than I supposed they would. The officer
was moved, even if he had just said that tears would
not be accepted instead of money, and gave us such
kind advice that I began to be sorry I had thought
him cruel, for it was easy to see that he was only
doing his duty and had no part in our trouble that
he could be blamed for, now that I had more kindly
thoughts of him.
He said that we would now be taken
to Keebart, a few versts’ distance from Verzbolovo,
where one Herr Schidorsky lived. This man, he
said, was well known for miles around, and we were
to tell him our story and ask him to help us, which
he probably would, being very kind.
A ray of hope shone on each of the
frightened faces listening so attentively to this
bearer of both evil and happy tidings. I, for
one, was very confident that the good man would help
us through our difficulties, for I was most unwilling
to believe that we really couldn’t continue
our journey. Which of us was? I’d like
to know.
We are in Keebart, at the depot.
The least important particular even of that place,
I noticed and remembered. How the porter he
was an ugly, grinning man carried in our
things and put them away in the southern corner of
the big room, on the floor; how we sat down on a settee
near them, a yellow settee; how the glass roof let
in so much light that we had to shade our eyes because
the car had been dark and we had been crying; how
there were only a few people besides ourselves there,
and how I began to count them and stopped when I noticed
a sign over the head of the fifth person a
little woman with a red nose and a pimple on it, that
seemed to be staring at me as much as the grayish-blue
eyes above them, it was so large and round and
tried to read the German, with the aid of the Russian
translation below. I noticed all this and remembered
it, as if there was nothing else in the world for me
to think of no America, no gendarme to
destroy one’s passports and speak of two hundred
rubles as if he were a millionaire, no possibility
of being sent back to one’s old home whether
one felt at all grateful for the kindness or not nothing
but that most attractive of places, full of interesting
sights.
For, though I had been so hopeful
a little while ago, I felt quite discouraged when
a man, very sour and grumbling and he was
a Jew a “Son of Mercy” as a
certain song said refused to tell mamma
where Schidorsky lived. I then believed that
the whole world must have united against us; and decided
to show my defiant indifference by leaving the world
to be as unkind as it pleased, while I took no interest
in such trifles.
So I let my mind lose itself in a
queer sort of mist a something I cannot
describe except by saying it must have been made up
of lazy inactivity. Through this mist I saw and
heard indistinctly much that followed.
When I think of it now, I see how
selfish it was to allow myself to sink, body and mind,
in such a sea of helpless laziness, when I might have
done something besides awaiting the end of that critical
time, whatever it might be something, though
what, I do not see even now, I own. But I only
studied the many notices till I thought myself very
well acquainted with the German tongue; and now and
then tried to cheer the other children, who were still
inclined to cry, by pointing out to them some of the
things that interested me. For this faulty conduct
I have no excuse to give, unless youth and the fact
that I was stunned with the shock we had just received,
will be accepted.
I remember through that mist that
mother found Schidorsky’s home at last, but
was told she could not see him till a little later;
that she came back to comfort us, and found there
our former fellow passenger who had come with us from
Vilna, and that he was very indignant at the way in
which we were treated, and scolded, and declared he
would have the matter in all the papers, and said
we must be helped. I remember how mamma saw Schidorsky
at last, spoke to him, and then told us, word for
word, what his answer had been; that he wouldn’t
wait to be asked to use all his influence, and wouldn’t
lose a moment about it, and he didn’t, for he
went out at once on that errand, while his good daughter
did her best to comfort mamma with kind words and
tea. I remember that there was much going to
the good man’s house; much hurrying of special
messengers to and from Eidtkunen; trembling inquiries,
uncertain replies made hopeful only by the pitying,
encouraging words and manners of the deliverer for
all, even the servants, were kind as good angels at
that place. I remember that another little family there
were three were discovered by us in the
same happy state as ourselves, and like the dogs in
the fable, who, receiving care at the hands of a kind
man, sent their friends to him for help, we sent them
to our helper.
I remember seeing night come out of
that mist, and bringing more trains and people and
noise than the whole day (we still remained at the
depot), till I felt sick and dizzy. I remember
wondering what kind of a night it was, but not knowing
how to find out, as if I had no senses. I remember
that somebody said we were obliged to remain in Keebart
that night and that we set out to find lodgings; that
the most important things I saw on the way were the
two largest dolls I had ever seen, carried by two
pretty little girls, and a big, handsome father; and
a great deal of gravel in the streets, and boards
for the crossings. I remember that we found a
little room (we had to go up four steps first) that
we could have for seventy-five copecks, with our tea
paid for in that sum. I remember, through that
mist, how I wondered what I was sleeping on that night,
as I wondered about the weather; that we really woke
up in the morning (I was so glad to rest I had believed
we should never be disturbed again) and washed, and
dressed and breakfasted and went to the depot again,
to be always on hand. I remember that mamma and
the father of the little family went at once to the
only good man on earth (I thought so) and that the
party of three were soon gone, by the help of some
agent that was slower, for good reasons, in helping
us.
I remember that mamma came to us soon
after and said that Herr Schidorsky had told her to
ask the Postmeister some high official
there for a pass to Eidtkunen; and there
she should speak herself to our protector’s
older brother who could help us by means of his great
power among the officers of high rank; that she returned
in a few hours and told us the two brothers were equal
in kindness, for the older one, too, said he would
not wait to be asked to do his best for us. I
remember that another day so-o-o long passed
behind the mist, and we were still in that dreadful,
noisy, tiresome depot, with no change, till we went
to spend the night at Herr Schidorsky’s, because
they wouldn’t let us go anywhere else.
On the way there, I remember, I saw something marvellous queer
little wooden sticks stuck on the lines where clothes
hung for some purpose. (I didn’t think it was
for drying, because you know I always saw things hung
up on fences and gates for such purposes. The
queer things turned out to be clothes-pins). And,
I remember, I noticed many other things of equal importance
to our affairs, till we came to the little house in
the garden. Here we were received, I remember
with much kindness and hospitality. We had a fire
made for us, food and drink brought in, and a servant
was always inquiring whether anything more could be
done for our comfort.
I remember, still through that misty
veil, what a pleasant evening we passed, talking over
what had so far happened, and wondering what would
come. I must have talked like one lost in a thick
fog, groping carefully. But, had I been shut
up, mentally, in a tower nothing else could pierce,
the sense of gratitude that naturally sprung from the
kindness that surrounded us, must have, would have
found a passage for itself to the deepest cavities
of the heart. Yes, though all my senses were
dulled by what had passed over us so lately, I was
yet aware of the deepest sense of thankfulness one
can ever feel. I was aware of something like
the sweet presence of angels in the persons of good
Schidorsky and his family. Oh, that some knowledge
of that gratitude might reach those for whom we felt
it so keenly! We all felt it. But the deepest
emotions are so hard to express. I thought of
this as I lay awake a little while, and said to myself,
thinking of our benefactor, that he was a Jew, a true
“Son of Mercy.” And I slept with that
thought. And this is the last I remember seeing
and feeling behind that mist of lazy inactivity.
The next morning, I woke not only
from the night’s sleep, but from my waking dreaminess.
All the vapors dispersed as I went into the pretty
flower garden where the others were already at play,
and by the time we had finished a good breakfast,
served by a dear servant girl, I felt quite myself
again.
Of course, mamma hastened to Herr
Schidorsky as soon as she could, and he sent her to
the Postmeister again, to ask him to return the part
of our passports that had been torn out, and without
which we could not go on. He said he would return
them as soon as he received word from Eidtkunen.
So we could only wait and hope. At last it came
and so suddenly that we ran off to the depot with
hardly a hat on all our heads, or a coat on our backs,
with two men running behind with our things, making
it a very ridiculous sight. We have often laughed
over it since.
Of course, in such a confusion we
could not say even one word of farewell or thanks
to our deliverers. But, turning to see that we
were all there, I saw them standing in the gate, crying
that all was well now, and wishing us many pleasant
things, and looking as if they had been receiving
all the blessings instead of us.
I have often thought they must have
purposely arranged it that we should have to leave
in a hurry, because they wouldn’t stand any expression
of gratefulness.
Well, we just reached our car in time
to see our baggage brought from the office and ourselves
inside, when the last bell rang. Then, before
we could get breath enough to utter more than faint
gasps of delight, we were again in Eidtkunen.
The gendarmes came to question
us again, but when mother said that we were going
to Herr Schidorsky of Eidtkunen, as she had been told
to say, we were allowed to leave the train. I
really thought we were to be the visitors of the elder
Schidorsky, but it turned out to be only an understanding
between him and the officers that those claiming to
be on their way to him were not to be troubled.
At any rate, we had now really crossed
the forbidden boundary we were in Germany.
There was a terrible confusion in
the baggage-room where we were directed to go.
Boxes, baskets, bags, valises, and great, shapeless
things belonging to no particular class were thrown
about by porters and other men, who sorted them and
put tickets on all but those containing provisions,
while others were opened and examined in haste.
At last our turn came, and our things, along with
those of all other American-bound travellers, were
taken away to be steamed and smoked and other such
processes gone through. We were told to wait till
notice should be given us of something else to be
done. Our train would not depart till nine in
the evening.
As usual, I noticed all the little
particulars of the waiting room. What else could
I do with so much time and not even a book to read?
I could describe it exactly the large,
square room, painted walls, long tables with fruits
and drinks of all kinds covering them, the white chairs,
carved settees, beautiful china and cut glass showing
through the glass doors of the dressers, and the nickel
samovar, which attracted my attention because I had
never seen any but copper or brass ones. The
best and the worst of everything there was a large
case full of books. It was the best, because
they were “books” and all could use them;
the worst, because they were all German, and my studies
in the railway depot of Keebart had not taught me
so much that I should be able to read books in German.
It was very hard to see people get those books and
enjoy them while I couldn’t. It was impossible
to be content with other people’s pleasure,
and I wasn’t.
When I had almost finished counting
the books, I noticed that mamma and the others had
made friends with a family of travellers like ourselves.
Frau Gittleman and her five children made very interesting
companions for the rest of the day, and they seemed
to think that Frau Antin and the four younger Antins
were just as interesting; perhaps excepting, in their
minds, one of them who must have appeared rather uninteresting
from a habit she had of looking about as if always
expecting to make discoveries.
But she was interested, if not interesting,
enough when the oldest of the young Gittlemans, who
was a young gentleman of seventeen, produced some
books which she could read. Then all had a merry
time together, reading, talking, telling the various
adventures of the journey, and walking, as far as
we were allowed, up and down the long platform outside,
till we were called to go and see, if we wanted to
see, how our things were being made fit for further
travel. It was interesting to see how they managed
to have anything left to return to us, after all the
processes of airing and smoking and steaming and other
assaults on supposed germs of the dreaded cholera
had been done with, the pillows, even, being ripped
open to be steamed! All this was interesting,
but we were rather disagreeably surprised when a bill
for these unasked-for services had to be paid.
The Gittlemans, we found, were to
keep us company for some time. At the expected
hour we all tried to find room in a car indicated by
the conductor. We tried, but could only find
enough space on the floor for our baggage, on which
we made believe sitting comfortably. For now we
were obliged to exchange the comparative comforts of
a third class passenger train for the certain discomforts
of a fourth class one. There were only four narrow
benches in the whole car, and about twice as many
people were already seated on these as they were probably
supposed to accommodate. All other space, to
the last inch, was crowded by passengers or their
luggage. It was very hot and close and altogether
uncomfortable, and still at every new station fresh
passengers came crowding in, and actually made room,
spare as it was, for themselves. It became so
terrible that all glared madly at the conductor as
he allowed more people to come into that prison, and
trembled at the announcement of every station.
I cannot see even now how the officers could allow
such a thing; it was really dangerous. The most
remarkable thing was the good-nature of the poor passengers.
Few showed a sour face even; not a man used any strong
language (audibly, at least). They smiled at each
other as if they meant to say, “I am having a
good time; so are you, aren’t you?” Young
Gittleman was very gallant, and so cheerful that he
attracted everybody’s attention. He told
stories, laughed, and made us unwilling to be outdone.
During one of his narratives he produced a pretty
memorandum book that pleased one of us very much, and
that pleasing gentleman at once presented it to her.
She has kept it since in memory of the giver, and,
in the right place, I could tell more about that matter very
interesting.
I have given so much space to the
description of that one night’s adventures because
I remember it so distinctly, with all its discomforts,
and the contrast of our fellow-travellers’ kindly
dispositions. At length that dreadful night passed,
and at dawn about half the passengers left, all at
once. There was such a sigh of relief and a stretching
of cramped limbs as can only be imagined, as the remaining
passengers inhaled the fresh cold air of dewy dawn.
It was almost worth the previous suffering to experience
the pleasure of relief that followed.
All day long we travelled in the same
train, sleeping, resting, eating, and wishing to get
out. But the train stopped for a very short time
at the many stations, and all the difference that
made to us was that pretty girls passed through the
cars with little bark baskets filled with fruit and
flowers hardly fresher or prettier than their bearers,
who generally sold something to our young companion,
for he never wearied of entertaining us.
Other interests there were none.
The scenery was nothing unusual, only towns, depots,
roads, fields, little country houses with barns and
cattle and poultry all such as we were well
acquainted with. If something new did appear,
it was passed before one could get a good look at
it. The most pleasing sights were little barefoot
children waving their aprons or hats as we eagerly
watched for them, because that reminded us of our
doing the same thing when we saw the passenger trains,
in the country. We used to wonder whether we should
ever do so again.
Towards evening we came into Berlin.
I grow dizzy even now when I think of our whirling
through that city. It seemed we were going faster
and faster all the time, but it was only the whirl
of trains passing in opposite directions and close
to us that made it seem so. The sight of crowds
of people such as we had never seen before, hurrying
to and fro, in and out of great depots that danced
past us, helped to make it more so. Strange sights,
splendid buildings, shops, people and animals, all
mingled in one great, confused mass of a disposition
to continually move in a great hurry, wildly, with
no other aim but to make one’s head go round
and round, in following its dreadful motions.
Round and round went my head. It was nothing
but trains, depots, crowds crowds, depots,
trains, again and again, with no beginning, no end,
only a mad dance! Faster and faster we go, faster
still, and the noise increases with the speed.
Bells, whistles, hammers, locomotives shrieking madly,
men’s voices, peddlers’ cries, horses’
hoofs, dogs’ barking all united in
doing their best to drown every other sound but their
own, and made such a deafening uproar in the attempt
that nothing could keep it out. Whirl, noise,
dance, uproar will it last forever?
I’m so o diz-z-zy! How my head
aches!
And oh! those people will be run over!
Stop the train, they’ll thank goodness,
nobody is hurt. But who ever heard of a train
passing right through the middle of a city, up in
the air, it seems. Oh, dear! it’s no use
thinking, my head spins so. Right through the
business streets! Why, who ever !
I must have lived through a century
of this terrible motion and din and unheard of roads
for trains, and confused thinking. But at length
everything began to take a more familiar appearance
again, the noise grew less, the roads more secluded,
and by degrees we recognized the dear, peaceful country.
Now we could think of Berlin, or rather, what we had
seen of it, more calmly, and wonder why it made such
an impression. I see now. We had never seen
so large a city before, and were not prepared to see
such sights, bursting upon us so suddenly as that.
It was like allowing a blind man to see the full glare
of the sun all at once. Our little Plotzk, and
even the larger cities we had passed through, compared
to Berlin about the same as total darkness does to
great brilliancy of light.
In a great lonely field opposite a
solitary wooden house within a large yard, our train
pulled up at last, and a conductor commanded the passengers
to make haste and get out. He need not have told
us to hurry; we were glad enough to be free again
after such a long imprisonment in the uncomfortable
car. All rushed to the door. We breathed
more freely in the open field, but the conductor did
not wait for us to enjoy our freedom. He hurried
us into the one large room which made up the house,
and then into the yard. Here a great many men
and women, dressed in white, received us, the women
attending to the women and girls of the passengers,
and the men to the others.
This was another scene of bewildering
confusion, parents losing their children, and little
ones crying; baggage being thrown together in one
corner of the yard, heedless of contents, which suffered
in consequence; those white-clad Germans shouting
commands always accompanied with “Quick!
Quick!”; the confused passengers obeying all
orders like meek children, only questioning now and
then what was going to be done with them.
And no wonder if in some minds stories
arose of people being captured by robbers, murderers,
and the like. Here we had been taken to a lonely
place where only that house was to be seen; our things
were taken away, our friends separated from us; a
man came to inspect us, as if to ascertain our full
value; strange looking people driving us about like
dumb animals, helpless and unresisting; children we
could not see, crying in a way that suggested terrible
things; ourselves driven into a little room where
a great kettle was boiling on a little stove; our
clothes taken off, our bodies rubbed with a slippery
substance that might be any bad thing; a shower of
warm water let down on us without warning; again driven
to another little room where we sit, wrapped in woollen
blankets till large, coarse bags are brought in, their
contents turned out and we see only a cloud of steam,
and hear the women’s orders to dress ourselves,
quick, quick, or else we’ll miss something
we cannot hear. We are forced to pick out our
clothes from among all the others, with the steam
blinding us; we choke, cough, entreat the women to
give us time; they persist, “Quick, quick, or
you’ll miss the train!” Oh, so we really
won’t be murdered! They are only making
us ready for the continuing of our journey, cleaning
us of all suspicions of dangerous germs. Thank
God!
Assured by the word “train”
we manage to dress ourselves after a fashion, and
the man comes again to inspect us. All is right,
and we are allowed to go into the yard to find our
friends and our luggage. Both are difficult tasks,
the second even harder. Imagine all the things
of some hundreds of people making a journey like ours,
being mostly unpacked and mixed together in one sad
heap. It was disheartening, but done at last
was the task of collecting our belongings, and we were
marched into the big room again. Here, on the
bare floor, in a ring, sat some Polish men and women
singing some hymn in their own tongue, and making
more noise than music. We were obliged to stand
and await further orders, the few seats being occupied,
and the great door barred and locked. We were
in a prison, and again felt some doubts. Then
a man came in and called the passengers’ names,
and when they answered they were made to pay two marcs
each for the pleasant bath we had just been forced
to take.
Another half hour, and our train arrived.
The door was opened, and we rushed out into the field,
glad to get back even to the fourth class car.
We had lost sight of the Gittlemans,
who were going a different way now, and to our regret
hadn’t even said good-bye, or thanked them for
their kindness.
After the preceding night of wakefulness
and discomfort, the weary day in the train, the dizzy
whirl through Berlin, the fright we had from the rough
proceedings of the Germans, and all the strange experiences
of the place we just escaped after all
this we needed rest. But to get it was impossible
for all but the youngest children. If we had borne
great discomforts on the night before, we were suffering
now. I had thought anything worse impossible.
Worse it was now. The car was even more crowded,
and people gasped for breath. People sat in strangers’
laps, only glad of that. The floor was so thickly
lined that the conductor could not pass, and the tickets
were passed to him from hand to hand. To-night
all were more worn out, and that did not mend their
dispositions. They could not help falling asleep
and colliding with someone’s nodding head, which
called out angry mutterings and growls. Some
fell off their seats and caused a great commotion by
rolling over on the sleepers on the floor, and, in
spite of my own sleepiness and weariness, I had many
quiet laughs by myself as I watched the funny actions
of the poor travellers.
Not until very late did I fall asleep.
I, with the rest, missed the pleasant company of our
friends, the Gittlemans, and thought about them as
I sat perched on a box, with an old man’s knees
for the back of my seat, another man’s head
continually striking my right shoulder, a dozen or
so arms being tossed restlessly right in front of my
face, and as many legs holding me a fast prisoner,
so that I could only try to keep my seat against all
the assaults of the sleepers who tried in vain to
make their positions more comfortable. It was
all so comical, in spite of all the inconveniences,
that I tried hard not to laugh out loud, till I too
fell asleep. I was awakened very early in the
morning by something chilling and uncomfortable on
my face, like raindrops coming down irregularly.
I found it was a neighbor of mine eating cheese, who
was dropping bits on my face. So I began the
day with a laugh at the man’s funny apologies,
but could not find much more fun in the world on account
of the cold and the pain of every limb. It was
very miserable, till some breakfast cheered me up
a little.
About eight o’clock we reached
Hamburg. Again there was a gendarme to ask questions,
look over the tickets and give directions. But
all the time he kept a distance from those passengers
who came from Russia, all for fear of the cholera.
We had noticed before how people were afraid to come
near us, but since that memorable bath in Berlin, and
all the steaming and smoking of our things, it seemed
unnecessary.
We were marched up to the strangest
sort of vehicle one could think of. It was a
something I don’t know any name for, though a
little like an express wagon. At that time I
had never seen such a high, narrow, long thing, so
high that the women and girls couldn’t climb
up without the men’s help, and great difficulty;
so narrow that two persons could not sit comfortably
side by side, and so long that it took me some time
to move my eyes from the rear end, where the baggage
was, to the front, where the driver sat.
When all had settled down at last
(there were a number besides ourselves) the two horses
started off very fast, in spite of their heavy load.
Through noisy, strange looking streets they took us,
where many people walked or ran or rode. Many
splendid houses, stone and brick, and showy shops,
they passed. Much that was very strange to us
we saw, and little we knew anything about. There
a little cart loaded with bottles or tin cans, drawn
by a goat or a dog, sometimes two, attracted our attention.
Sometimes it was only a nurse carrying a child in her
arms that seemed interesting, from the strange dress.
Often it was some article displayed in a shop window
or door, or the usually smiling owner standing in
the doorway, that called for our notice. Not that
there was anything really unusual in many of these
things, but a certain air of foreignness, which sometimes
was very vague, surrounded everything that passed
before our interested gaze as the horses hastened on.
The strangest sight of all we saw
as we came into the still noisier streets. Something
like a horse-car such as we had seen in Vilna for the
first time, except that it was open on both sides (in
most cases) but without any horses, came flying really
flying past us. For we stared and
looked it all over, and above, and under, and rubbed
our eyes, and asked of one another what we saw, and
nobody could find what it was that made the thing
go. And go it did, one after another, faster than
we, with nothing to move it. “Why, what
is that?” we kept exclaiming. “Really,
do you see anything that makes it go? I’m
sure I don’t.” Then I ventured the
highly probable suggestion, “Perhaps it’s
the fat man in the gray coat and hat with silver buttons.
I guess he pushes it. I’ve noticed one
in front on every one of them, holding on to that shining
thing.” And I’m sure this was as wise
a solution of the mystery as anyone could give, except
the driver, who laughed to himself and his horses
over our surprise and wonder at nothing he could see
to cause it.
But we couldn’t understand his
explanation, though we always got along very easily
with the Germans, and not until much later did we know
that those wonderful things, with only a fat man to
move them, were electric cars.
The sightseeing was not all on our
side. I noticed many people stopping to look
at us as if amused, though most passed by as though
used to such sights. We did make a queer appearance
all in a long row, up above people’s heads.
In fact, we looked like a flock of giant fowls roosting,
only wide awake.
Suddenly, when everything interesting
seemed at an end, we all recollected how long it was
since we had started on our funny ride. Hours,
we thought, and still the horses ran. Now we rode
through quieter streets where there were fewer shops
and more wooden houses. Still the horses seemed
to have but just started. I looked over our perch
again. Something made me think of a description
I had read of criminals being carried on long journeys
in uncomfortable things like this?
Well, it was strange this long, long drive,
the conveyance, no word of explanation, and all, though
going different ways, being packed off together.
We were strangers; the driver knew it. He might
take us anywhere how could we tell?
I was frightened again as in Berlin. The faces
around me confessed the same.
The streets became quieter still;
no shops, only little houses; hardly any people passing.
Now we cross many railway tracks and I can hear the
sea not very distant. There are many trees now
by the roadside, and the wind whistles through their
branches. The wheels and hoofs make a great noise
on the stones, the roar of the sea and the wind among
the branches have an unfriendly sound.
The horses never weary. Still
they run. There are no houses now in view, save
now and then a solitary one, far away. I can see
the ocean. Oh, it is stormy. The dark waves
roll inward, the white foam flies high in the air;
deep sounds come from it. The wheels and hoofs
make a great noise; the wind is stronger, and says,
“Do you hear the sea?” And the ocean’s
roar threatens. The sea threatens, and the wind
bids me hear it, and the hoofs and the wheels repeat
the command, and so do the trees, by gestures.
Yes, we are frightened. We are
very still. Some Polish women over there have
fallen asleep, and the rest of us look such a picture
of woe, and yet so funny, it is a sight to see and
remember.
At last, at last! Those unwearied
horses have stopped. Where? In front of
a brick building, the only one on a large, broad street,
where only the trees, and, in the distance, the passing
trains can be seen. Nothing else. The ocean,
too, is shut out.
All were helped off, the baggage put
on the sidewalk, and then taken up again and carried
into the building, where the passengers were ordered
to go. On the left side of the little corridor
was a small office where a man sat before a desk covered
with papers. These he pushed aside when we entered,
and called us in one by one, except, of course children.
As usual, many questions were asked, the new ones
being about our tickets. Then each person, children
included, had to pay three marcs one
for the wagon that brought us over and two for food
and lodgings, till our various ships should take us
away.
Mamma, having five to pay for, owed
fifteen marcs. The little sum we started
with was to last us to the end of the journey, and
would have done so if there hadn’t been those
unexpected bills to pay at Keebart, Eidtkunen, Berlin,
and now at the office. Seeing how often services
were forced upon us unasked and payment afterwards
demanded, mother had begun to fear that we should
need more money, and had sold some things to a woman
for less than a third of their value. In spite
of that, so heavy was the drain on the spare purse
where it had not been expected, she found to her dismay
that she had only twelve marcs left to meet the
new bill.
The man in the office wouldn’t
believe it, and we were given over in charge of a
woman in a dark gray dress and long white apron, with
a red cross on her right arm. She led us away
and thoroughly searched us all, as well as our baggage.
That was nice treatment, like what we had been receiving
since our first uninterrupted entrance into Germany.
Always a call for money, always suspicion of our presence
and always rough orders and scowls of disapproval,
even at the quickest obedience. And now this
outrageous indignity! We had to bear it all because
we were going to America from a land cursed by the
dreadful epidemic. Others besides ourselves shared
these trials, the last one included, if that were any
comfort, which it was not.
When the woman reported the result
of the search as being fruitless, the man was satisfied,
and we were ordered with the rest through many more
examinations and ceremonies before we should be established
under the quarantine, for that it was.
While waiting for our turn to be examined
by the doctor I looked about, thinking it worth while
to get acquainted with a place where we might be obliged
to stay for I knew not how long. The room where
we were sitting was large, with windows so high up
that we couldn’t see anything through them.
In the middle stood several long wooden tables, and
around these were settees of the same kind. On
the right, opposite the doctor’s office, was
a little room where various things could be bought
of a young man if you hadn’t paid
all your money for other things.
When the doctor was through with us
he told us to go to Number Five. Now wasn’t
that like in a prison? We walked up and down a
long yard looking, among a row of low, numbered doors,
for ours, when we heard an exclamation of, “Oh,
Esther! how do you happen to be here?” and, on
seeing the speaker, found it to be an old friend of
ours from Plotzk. She had gone long before us,
but her ship hadn’t arrived yet. She was
surprised to see us because we had had no intention
of going when she went.
What a comfort it was to find a friend
among all the strangers! She showed us at once
to our new quarters, and while she talked to mamma
I had time to see what they were like.
It looked something like a hospital,
only less clean and comfortable; more like the soldiers’
barracks I had seen. I saw a very large room,
around whose walls were ranged rows of high iron double
bedsteads, with coarse sacks stuffed with something
like matting, and not over-clean blankets for the
only bedding, except where people used their own.
There were three windows almost touching the roof,
with nails covering all the framework. From the
ceiling hung two round gas lamps, and almost under
them stood a little wooden table and a settee.
The floor was of stone.
Here was a pleasant prospect.
We had no idea how long this unattractive place might
be our home.
Our friend explained that Number Five
was only for Jewish women and girls, and the beds
were sleeping rooms, dining rooms, parlors, and everything
else, kitchens excepted. It seemed so, for some
were lounging on the beds, some sitting up, some otherwise
engaged, and all were talking and laughing and making
a great noise. Poor things! there was nothing
else to do in that prison.
Before mother had told our friend
of our adventures, a girl, also a passenger, who had
been walking in the yard, ran in and announced, “It’s
time to go to dinner! He has come already.”
“He” we soon learned, was the overseer
of the Jewish special kitchen, without whom the meals
were never taken.
All the inmates of Number Five rushed
out in less than a minute, and I wondered why they
hurried so. When we reached the place that served
as dining room, there was hardly any room for us.
Now, while the dinner is being served, I will tell
you what I can see.
In the middle of the yard stood a
number of long tables covered with white oilcloth.
On either side of each table stood benches on which
all the Jewish passengers were now seated, looking
impatiently at the door with the sign “Jewish
Kitchen” over it. Pretty soon a man appeared
in the doorway, tall, spare, with a thin, pointed
beard, and an air of importance on his face.
It was “he”, the overseer, who carried
a large tin pail filled with black bread cut into
pieces of half a pound each. He gave a piece
to every person, the youngest child and the biggest
man alike, and then went into the kitchen and filled
his pail with soup and meat, giving everybody a great
bowl full of soup and a small piece of meat.
All attacked their rations as soon as they received
them and greatly relished the coarse bread and dark,
hot water they called soup. We couldn’t
eat those things and only wondered how any one could
have such an appetite for such a dinner. We stopped
wondering when our own little store of provisions
gave out.
After dinner, the people went apart,
some going back to their beds and others to walk in
the yard or sit on the settees there. There was
no other place to go to. The doors of the prison
were never unlocked except when new passengers arrived
or others left for their ships. The fences they
really were solid walls had wires and nails
on top, so that one couldn’t even climb to get
a look at the sea.
We went back to our quarters to talk
over matters and rest from our journey. At six
o’clock the doctor came with a clerk, and, standing
before the door, bade all those in the yard belonging
to Number Five assemble there; and then the roll was
called and everybody received a little ticket as she
answered to her name. With this all went to the
kitchen and received two little rolls and a large cup
of partly sweetened tea. This was supper; and
breakfast, served too in this way was the same.
Any wonder that people hurried to dinner and enjoyed
it? And it was always the same thing, no change.
Little by little we became used to
the new life, though it was hard to go hungry day
after day, and bear the discomforts of the common room,
shared by so many; the hard beds (we had little bedding
of our own), and the confinement to the narrow limits
of the yard, and the tiresome sameness of the life.
Meal hours, of course, played the most important part,
while the others had to be filled up as best we could.
The weather was fine most of the time and that helped
much. Everything was an event, the arrival of
fresh passengers a great one which happened every day;
the day when the women were allowed to wash clothes
by the well was a holiday, and the few favorite girls
who were allowed to help in the kitchen were envied.
On dull, rainy days, the man coming to light the lamps
at night was an object of pleasure, and every one made
the best of everybody else. So when a young man
arrived who had been to America once before, he was
looked up to by every person there as a superior, his
stories of our future home listened to with delight,
and his manners imitated by all, as a sort of fit
preparation. He was wanted everywhere, and he
made the best of his greatness by taking liberties
and putting on great airs and, I afterwards found,
imposing on our ignorance very much. But anything
“The American” did passed for good, except
his going away a few days too soon.
Then a girl came who was rather wanting
a little brightness. So all joined in imposing
upon her by telling her a certain young man was a
great professor whom all owed respect and homage to,
and she would do anything in the world to express
hers, while he used her to his best advantage, like
the willing slave she was. Nobody seemed to think
this unkind at all, and it really was excusable that
the poor prisoners, hungry for some entertainment,
should try to make a little fun when the chance came.
Besides, the girl had opened the temptation by asking,
“Who was the handsome man in the glasses?
A professor surely;” showing that she took glasses
for a sure sign of a professor, and professor for the
highest possible title of honor. Doesn’t
this excuse us?
The greatest event was the arrival
of some ship to take some of the waiting passengers.
When the gates were opened and the lucky ones said
good bye, those left behind felt hopeless of ever seeing
the gates open for them. It was both pleasant
and painful, for the strangers grew to be fast friends
in a day and really rejoiced in each other’s
fortune, but the regretful envy could not be helped
either.
Amid such events as these a day was
like a month at least. Eight of these we had
spent in quarantine when a great commotion was noticed
among the people of Number Five and those of the corresponding
number in the men’s division. There was
a good reason for it. You remember that it was
April and Passover was coming on; in fact, it began
that night. The great question was, Would we
be able to keep it exactly according to the host of
rules to be obeyed? You who know all about the
great holiday can understand what the answer to that
question meant to us. Think of all the work and
care and money it takes to supply a family with all
the things proper and necessary, and you will see
that to supply a few hundred was no small matter.
Now, were they going to take care that all was perfectly
right, and could we trust them if they promised, or
should we be forced to break any of the laws that
ruled the holiday?
All day long there was talking and
questioning and debating and threatening that “we
would rather starve than touch anything we were not
sure of.” And we meant it. So some
men and women went to the overseer to let him know
what he had to look out for. He assured them that
he would rather starve along with us than allow anything
to be in the least wrong. Still, there was more
discussing and shaking of heads, for they were not
sure yet.
There was not a crumb anywhere to
be found, because what bread we received was too precious
for any of it to be wasted; but the women made a great
show of cleaning up Number Five, while they sighed
and looked sad and told one another of the good hard
times they had at home getting ready for Passover.
Really, hard as it is, when one is used to it from
childhood, it seems part of the holiday, and can’t
be left out. To sit down and wait for supper
as on other nights seemed like breaking one of the
laws. So they tried hard to be busy.
At night we were called by the overseer
(who tried to look more important than ever in his
holiday clothes not his best, though) to
the feast spread in one of the unoccupied rooms.
We were ready for it, and anxious enough. We
had had neither bread nor matzo for dinner, and were
more hungry than ever, if that is possible. We
now found everything really prepared; there were the
pillows covered with a snow-white spread, new oilcloth
on the newly scrubbed tables, some little candles
stuck in a basin of sand on the window-sill for the
women, and a sure sign of a holiday both
gas lamps burning. Only one was used on other
nights.
Happy to see these things, and smell
the supper, we took our places and waited. Soon
the cook came in and filled some glasses with wine
from two bottles, one yellow, one red.
Then she gave to each person exactly one
and a half matzos; also some cold meat, burned almost
to a coal for the occasion.
The young man bless him who
had the honor to perform the ceremonies, was, fortunately
for us all, one of the passengers. He felt for
and with us, and it happened just a coincidence that
the greater part of the ceremony escaped from his
book as he turned the leaves. Though strictly
religious, nobody felt in the least guilty about it,
especially on account of the wine; for, when we came
to the place where you have to drink the wine, we
found it tasted like good vinegar, which made us all
choke and gasp, and one little girl screamed “Poison!”
so that all laughed, and the leader, who tried to
go on, broke down too at the sight of the wry faces
he saw; while the overseer looked shocked, the cook
nearly set her gown on fire by overthrowing the candles
with her apron (used to hide her face) and all wished
our Master Overseer had to drink that “wine”
all his days.
Think of the same ceremony as it is
at home, then of this one just described. Do
they even resemble each other?
Well, the leader got through amid
much giggling and sly looks among the girls who understood
the trick, and frowns of the older people (who secretly
blessed him for it). Then, half hungry, all went
to bed and dreamed of food in plenty.
No other dreams? Rather!
For the day that brought the Passover brought us our
own family the most glorious news.
We had been ordered to bring our baggage to the office!
“Ordered to bring our baggage
to the office!” That meant nothing less than
that we were “going the next day!”
It was just after supper that we received
the welcome order. Oh, who cared if there wasn’t
enough to eat? Who cared for anything in the whole
world? We didn’t. It was all joy and
gladness and happy anticipation for us. We laughed,
and cried, and hugged one another, and shouted, and
acted altogether like wild things. Yes, we were
wild with joy, and long after the rest were asleep,
we were whispering together and wondering how we could
keep quiet the whole night. We couldn’t
sleep by any means, we were so afraid of oversleeping
the great hour; and every little while, after we tried
to sleep, one of us would suddenly think she saw day
at the window, and wake the rest, who also had only
been pretending to sleep while watching in the dark
for daylight.
When it came, it found no watchful
eye, after all. The excitement gave way to fatigue,
and drowsiness first, then deep sleep, completed its
victory. It was eight o’clock when we awoke.
The morning was cloudy and chilly, the sun being too
lazy to attend to business; now and then it rained
a little, too. And yet it was the most beautiful
day that had ever dawned on Hamburg.
We enjoyed everything offered for
breakfast, two matzos and two cups of tea apiece why
it was a banquet. After it came the good-byes,
as we were going soon. As I told you before,
the strangers became fast friends in a short time
under the circumstances, so there was real sorrow at
the partings, though the joy of the fortunate ones
was, in a measure, shared by all.
About one o’clock (we didn’t
go to dinner we couldn’t eat for
excitement) we were called. There were three other
families, an old woman, and a young man, among the
Jewish passengers, who were going with us, besides
some Polish people. We were all hurried through
the door we had watched with longing for so long,
and were a little way from it when the old woman stopped
short and called on the rest to wait.
“We haven’t any matzo!”
she cried in alarm. “Where’s the overseer?”
Sure enough we had forgotten it, when
we might as well have left one of us behind.
We refused to go, calling for the overseer, who had
promised to supply us, and the man who had us in charge
grew angry and said he wouldn’t wait. It
was a terrible situation for us.
“Oh,” said the man, “you
can go and get your matzo, but the boat won’t
wait for you.” And he walked off, followed
by the Polish people only.
We had to decide at once. We
looked at the old woman. She said she wasn’t
going to start on a dangerous journey with such a sin
on her soul. Then the children decided.
They understood the matter. They cried and begged
to follow the party. And we did.
Just when we reached the shore, the
cook came up panting hard. She brought us matzo.
How relieved we were then!
We got on a little steamer (the name
is too big for it) that was managed by our conductor
alone. Before we had recovered from the shock
of the shrill whistle so near us, we were landing
in front of a large stone building.
Once more we were under the command
of the gendarme. We were ordered to go into a
big room crowded with people, and wait till the name
of our ship was called. Somebody in a little
room called a great many queer names, and many passengers
answered the call. At last we heard,
“Polynesia!”
We passed in and a great many things
were done to our tickets before we were directed to
go outside, then to a larger steamer than the one we
came in. At every step our tickets were either
stamped or punched, or a piece torn off of them, till
we stepped upon the steamer’s deck. Then
we were ordered below. It was dark there, and
we didn’t like it. In a little while we
were called up again, and then we saw before us the
great ship that was to carry us to America.
I only remember, from that moment,
that I had only one care till all became quiet; not
to lose hold of my sister’s hand. Everything
else can be told in one word noise.
But when I look back, I can see what made it.
There were sailors dragging and hauling bundles and
boxes from the small boat into the great ship, shouting
and thundering at their work. There were officers
giving out orders in loud voices, like trumpets, though
they seemed to make no effort. There were children
crying, and mothers hushing them, and fathers questioning
the officers as to where they should go. There
were little boats and steamers passing all around,
shrieking and whistling terribly. And there seemed
to be everything under heaven that had any noise in
it, come to help swell the confusion of sounds.
I know that, but how we ever got in that quiet place
that had the sign “For Families” over
it, I don’t know. I think we went around
and around, long and far, before we got there.
But there we were, sitting quietly
on a bench by the white berths.
When the sailors brought our things,
we got everything in order for the journey as soon
as possible, that we might go on deck to see the starting.
But first we had to obey a sailor, who told us to come
and get dishes. Each person received a plate,
a spoon and a cup. I wondered how we could get
along if we had had no things of our own.
For an hour or two more there were
still many noises on deck, and many preparations made.
Then we went up, as most of the passengers did.
What a change in the scene! Where
there had been noise and confusion before, peace and
quiet were now. All the little boats and steamers
had disappeared, and the wharf was deserted.
On deck the “Polynesia” everything was
in good order, and the officers walked about smoking
their cigars as if their work was done. Only a
few sailors were at work at the big ropes, but they
didn’t shout as before. The weather had
changed, too, for the twilight was unlike what the
day had promised. The sky was soft gray, with
faint streaks of yellow on the horizon. The air
was still and pleasant, much warmer than it had been
all the day; and the water was as motionless and clear
as a deep, cool well, and everything was mirrored
in it clearly.
This entire change in the scene, the
peace that encircled everything around us, seemed
to give all the same feeling that I know I had.
I fancied that nature created it especially for us,
so that we would be allowed, in this pause, to think
of our situation. All seemed to do so; all spoke
in low voices, and seemed to be looking for something
as they gazed quietly into the smooth depths below,
or the twilight skies above. Were they seeking
an assurance? Perhaps; for there was something
strange in the absence of a crowd of friends on the
shore, to cheer and salute, and fill the air with
white clouds and last farewells.
I found the assurance. The very
stillness was a voice nature’s voice;
and it spoke to the ocean and said,
“I entrust to you this vessel.
Take care of it, for it bears my children with it,
from one strange shore to another more distant, where
loving friends are waiting to embrace them after long
partings. Be gentle with your charge.”
And the ocean, though seeming so still,
replied, “I will obey my mistress.”
I heard it all, and a feeling of safety
and protection came to me. And when at last the
wheels overhead began to turn and clatter, and the
ripples on the water told us that the “Polynesia”
had started on her journey, which was not noticeable
from any other sign, I felt only a sense of happiness.
I mistrusted nothing.
But the old woman who remembered the
matzo did, more than anybody else. She made great
preparations for being seasick, and poisoned the air
with garlic and onions.
When the lantern fixed in the ceiling
had been lighted, the captain and the steward paid
us a visit. They took up our tickets and noticed
all the passengers, then left. Then a sailor
brought supper bread and coffee. Only
a few ate it. Then all went to bed, though it
was very early.
Nobody expected seasickness as soon
as it seized us. All slept quietly the whole
night, not knowing any difference between being on
land or at sea. About five o’clock I woke
up, and then I felt and heard the sea. A very
disagreeable smell came from it, and I knew it was
disturbed by the rocking of the ship. Oh, how
wretched it made us! From side to side it went
rocking, rocking. Ugh! Many of the passengers
are very sick indeed, they suffer terribly. We
are all awake now, and wonder if we, too, will be
so sick. Some children are crying, at intervals.
There is nobody to comfort them all are
so miserable. Oh, I am so sick! I’m
dizzy; everything is going round and round before
my eyes Oh-h-h!
I can’t even begin to tell of
the suffering of the next few hours. Then I thought
I would feel better if I could go on deck. Somehow,
I got down (we had upper berths) and, supporting myself
against the walls, I came on deck. But it was
worse. The green water, tossing up the white foam,
rocking all around, as far as I dared to look, was
frightful to me then. So I crawled back as well
as I could, and nobody else tried to go out.
By and by the doctor and the steward
came. The doctor asked each passenger if they
were well, but only smiled when all begged for some
medicine to take away the dreadful suffering.
To those who suffered from anything besides seasickness
he sent medicine and special food later on. His
companion appointed one of the men passengers for every
twelve or fifteen to carry the meals from the kitchen,
giving them cards to get it with. For our group
a young German was appointed, who was making the journey
for the second time, with his mother and sister.
We were great friends with them during the journey.
The doctor went away soon, leaving
the sufferers in the same sad condition. At twelve,
a sailor announced that dinner was ready, and the
man brought it large tin pails and basins
of soup, meat, cabbage, potatoes, and pudding (the
last was allowed only once a week); and almost all
of it was thrown away, as only a few men ate.
The rest couldn’t bear even the smell of food.
It was the same with the supper at six o’clock.
At three milk had been brought for the babies, and
brown bread (a treat) with coffee for the rest.
But after supper the daily allowance of fresh water
was brought, and this soon disappeared and more called
for, which was refused, although we lived on water
alone for a week.
At last the day was gone, and much
we had borne in it. Night came, but brought little
relief. Some did fall asleep, and forgot suffering
for a few hours. I was awake late. The ship
was quieter, and everything sadder than by daylight.
I thought of all we had gone through till we had got
on board the “Polynesia”; of the parting
from all friends and things we loved, forever, as
far as we knew; of the strange experience at various
strange places; of the kind friends who helped us,
and the rough officers who commanded us; of the quarantine,
the hunger, then the happy news, and the coming on
board. Of all this I thought, and remembered
that we were far away from friends, and longed for
them, that I might be made well by speaking to them.
And every minute was making the distance between us
greater, a meeting more impossible. Then I remembered
why we were crossing the ocean, and knew that it was
worth the price. At last the noise of the wheels
overhead, and the dull roar of the sea, rocked me
to sleep.
For a short time only. The ship
was tossed about more than the day before, and the
great waves sounded like distant thunder as they beat
against it, and rolled across the deck and entered
the cabin. We found, however, that we were better,
though very weak. We managed to go on deck in
the afternoon, when it was calm enough. A little
band was playing, and a few young sailors and German
girls tried even to dance; but it was impossible.
As I sat in a corner where no waves
could reach me, holding on to a rope, I tried to take
in the grand scene. There was the mighty ocean
I had heard of only, spreading out its rough breadth
far, far around, its waves giving out deep, angry
tones, and throwing up walls of spray into the air.
There was the sky, like the sea, full of ridges of
darkest clouds, bending to meet the waves, and following
their motions and frowning and threatening. And
there was the “Polynesia” in the midst
of this world of gloom, and anger, and distance.
I saw these, but indistinctly, not half comprehending
the wonderful picture. For the suffering had
left me dull and tired out. I only knew that I
was sad, and everybody else was the same.
Another day gone, and we congratulate
one another that seasickness lasted only one day with
us. So we go to sleep.
Oh, the sad mistake! For six
days longer we remain in our berths, miserable and
unable to eat. It is a long fast, hardly interrupted,
during which we know that the weather is unchanged,
the sky dark, the sea stormy.
On the eighth day out we are again
able to be about. I went around everywhere, exploring
every corner, and learning much from the sailors;
but I never remembered the names of the various things
I asked about, they were so many, and some German
names hard to learn. We all made friends with
the captain and other officers, and many of the passengers.
The little band played regularly on certain days, and
the sailors and girls had a good many dances, though
often they were swept by a wave across the deck, quite
out of time. The children were allowed to play
on deck, but carefully watched.
Still the weather continued the same,
or changing slightly. But I was able now to see
all the grandeur of my surroundings, notwithstanding
the weather.
Oh, what solemn thoughts I had!
How deeply I felt the greatness, the power of the
scene! The immeasurable distance from horizon
to horizon; the huge billows forever changing their
shapes now only a wavy and rolling plain,
now a chain of great mountains, coming and going farther
away; then a town in the distance, perhaps, with spires
and towers and buildings of gigantic dimensions; and
mostly a vast mass of uncertain shapes, knocking against
each other in fury, and seething and foaming in their
anger; the grey sky, with its mountains of gloomy clouds,
flying, moving with the waves, as it seemed, very
near them; the absence of any object besides the one
ship; and the deep, solemn groans of the sea, sounding
as if all the voices of the world had been turned into
sighs and then gathered into that one mournful sound so
deeply did I feel the presence of these things, that
the feeling became one of awe, both painful and sweet,
and stirring and warming, and deep and calm and grand.
I thought of tempests and shipwreck,
of lives lost, treasures destroyed, and all the tales
I had heard of the misfortunes at sea, and knew I had
never before had such a clear idea of them. I
tried to realize that I saw only a part of an immense
whole, and then my feelings were terrible in their
force. I was afraid of thinking then, but could
not stop it. My mind would go on working, till
I was overcome by the strength and power that was
greater than myself. What I did at such times
I do not know. I must have been dazed.
After a while I could sit quietly
and gaze far away. Then I would imagine myself
all alone on the ocean, and Robinson Crusoe was very
real to me. I was alone sometimes. I was
aware of no human presence; I was conscious only of
sea and sky and something I did not understand.
And as I listened to its solemn voice, I felt as if
I had found a friend, and knew that I loved the ocean.
It seemed as if it were within as well as without,
a part of myself; and I wondered how I had lived without
it, and if I could ever part with it.
The ocean spoke to me in other besides
mournful or angry tones. I loved even the angry
voice, but when it became soothing, I could hear a
sweet, gentle accent that reached my soul rather than
my ear. Perhaps I imagined it. I do not
know. What was real and what imaginary blended
in one. But I heard and felt it, and at such
moments I wished I could live on the sea forever,
and thought that the sight of land would be very unwelcome
to me. I did not want to be near any person.
Alone with the ocean forever that was my
wish.
Leading a quiet life, the same every
day, and thinking such thoughts, feeling such emotions,
the days were very long. I do not know how the
others passed the time, because I was so lost in my
meditations. But when the sky would smile for
awhile when a little sunlight broke a path
for itself through the heavy clouds, which disappeared
as though frightened; and when the sea looked more
friendly, and changed its color to match the heavens,
which were higher up then we would sit on
deck together, and laugh for mere happiness as we
talked of the nearing meeting, which the unusual fairness
of the weather seemed to bring nearer. Sometimes,
at such minutes of sunshine and gladness, a few birds
would be seen making their swift journey to some point
we did not know of; sometimes among the light clouds,
then almost touching the surface of the waves.
How shall I tell you what we felt at the sight?
The birds were like old friends to us, and brought
back many memories, which seemed very old, though
really fresh. All felt sadder when the distance
became too great for us to see the dear little friends,
though it was not for a long time after their first
appearance. We used to watch for them, and often
mistook the clouds for birds, and were thus disappointed.
When they did come, how envious we were of their wings!
It was a new thought to me that the birds had more
power than man.
In this way the days went by.
I thought my thoughts each day, as I watched the scene,
hoping to see a beautiful sunset some day. I never
did, to my disappointment. And each night, as
I lay in my berth, waiting for sleep, I wished I might
be able even to hope for the happiness of a sea-voyage
after this had been ended.
Yet, when, on the twelfth day after
leaving Hamburg, the captain announced that we should
see land before long, I rejoiced as much as anybody
else. We were so excited with expectation that
nothing else was heard but the talk of the happy arrival,
now so near. Some were even willing to stay up
at night, to be the first ones to see the shores of
America. It was therefore a great disappointment
when the captain said, in the evening, that we would
not reach Boston as soon as he expected, on account
of the weather.
A dense fog set in at night, and grew
heavier and heavier, until the “Polynesia”
was closely walled in by it, and we could just see
from one end of the deck to the other. The signal
lanterns were put up, the passengers were driven to
their berths by the cold and damp, the cabin doors
closed, and discomfort reigned everywhere.
But the excitement of the day had
tired us out, and we were glad to forget disappointment
in sleep. In the morning it was still foggy, but
we could see a little way around. It was very
strange to have the boundless distance made so narrow,
and I felt the strangeness of the scene. All
day long we shivered with cold, and hardly left the
cabin. At last it was night once more, and we
in our berths. But nobody slept.
The sea had been growing rougher during
the day, and at night the ship began to pitch as it
did at the beginning of the journey. Then it grew
worse. Everything in our cabin was rolling on
the floor, clattering and dinning. Dishes were
broken into little bits that flew about from one end
to the other. Bedding from upper berths nearly
stifled the people in the lower ones. Some fell
out of their berths, but it was not at all funny.
As the ship turned to one side, the passengers were
violently thrown against that side of the berths,
and some boards gave way and clattered down to the
floor. When it tossed on the other side, we could
see the little windows almost touch the water, and
closed the shutters to keep out the sight. The
children cried, everybody groaned, and sailors kept
coming in to pick up the things on the floor and carry
them away. This made the confusion less, but
not the alarm.
Above all sounds rose the fog horn.
It never stopped the long night through. And
oh, how sad it sounded! It pierced every heart,
and made us afraid. Now and then some ship, far
away, would answer, like a weak echo. Sometimes
we noticed that the wheels were still, and we knew
that the ship had stopped. This frightened us
more than ever, for we imagined the worst reasons
for it.
It was day again, and a little calmer.
We slept now, till the afternoon. Then we saw
that the fog had become much thinner, and later on
we even saw a ship, but indistinctly.
Another night passed, and the day
that followed was pretty fair, and towards evening
the sky was almost cloudless. The captain said
we should have no more rough weather, for now we were
really near Boston. Oh, how hard it was to wait
for the happy day! Somebody brought the news that
we should land to-morrow in the afternoon. We
didn’t believe it, so he said that the steward
had ordered a great pudding full of raisins for supper
that day as a sure sign that it was the last on board.
We remembered the pudding, but didn’t believe
in its meaning.
I don’t think we slept that
night. After all the suffering of our journey,
after seeing and hearing nothing but the sky and the
sea and its roaring, it was impossible to sleep when
we thought that soon we would see trees, fields, fresh
people, animals a world, and that world
America. Then, above everything, was the meeting
with friends we had not seen for years; for almost
everybody had some friends awaiting them.
Morning found all the passengers up
and expectant. Someone questioned the captain,
and he said we would land to-morrow. There was
another long day, and another sleepless night, but
when these ended at last, how busy we were! First
we packed up all the things we did not need, then put
on fresh clothing, and then went on deck to watch
for land. It was almost three o’clock,
the hour the captain hoped to reach Boston, but there
was nothing new to be seen. The weather was fair,
so we would have seen anything within a number of
miles. Anxiously we watched, and as we talked
of the strange delay, our courage began to give out
with our hope. When it could be borne no longer,
a gentleman went to speak to the captain. He
was on the upper deck, examining the horizon.
He put off the arrival for the next day!
You can imagine our feelings at this.
When it was worse the captain came down and talked
so assuringly that, in spite of all the disappointments
we had had, we believed that this was the last, and
were quite cheerful when we went to bed.
The morning was glorious. It
was the eighth of May, the seventeenth day after we
left Hamburg. The sky was clear and blue, the
sun shone brightly, as if to congratulate us that
we had safely crossed the stormy sea; and to apologize
for having kept away from us so long. The sea
had lost its fury; it was almost as quiet as it had
been at Hamburg before we started, and its color was
a beautiful greenish blue. Birds were all the
time in the air, and it was worth while to live merely
to hear their songs. And soon, oh joyful sight!
we saw the tops of two trees!
What a shout there rose! Everyone
pointed out the welcome sight to everybody else, as
if they did not see it. All eyes were fixed on
it as if they saw a miracle. And this was only
the beginning of the joys of the day!
What confusion there was! Some
were flying up the stairs to the upper deck, some
were tearing down to the lower one, others were running
in and out of the cabins, some were in all parts of
the ship in one minute, and all were talking and laughing
and getting in somebody’s way. Such excitement,
such joy! We had seen two trees!
Then steamers and boats of all kinds
passed by, in all directions. We shouted, and
the men stood up in the boats and returned the greeting,
waving their hats. We were as glad to see them
as if they were old friends of ours.
Oh, what a beautiful scene! No
corner of the earth is half so fair as the lovely
picture before us. It came to view suddenly, a
green field, a real field with grass on it, and large
houses, and the dearest hens and little chickens in
all the world, and trees, and birds, and people at
work. The young green things put new life into
us, and are so dear to our eyes that we dare not speak
a word now, lest the magic should vanish away and
we should be left to the stormy scenes we know.
But nothing disturbed the fairy sight.
Instead, new scenes appeared, beautiful as the first.
The sky becomes bluer all the time, the sun warmer;
the sea is too quiet for its name, and the most beautiful
blue imaginable.
What are the feelings these sights
awaken! They can not be described. To know
how great was our happiness, how complete, how free
from even the shadow of a sadness, you must make a
journey of sixteen days on a stormy ocean. Is
it possible that we will ever again be so happy?
It was about three hours since we
saw the first landmarks, when a number of men came
on board, from a little steamer, and examined the passengers
to see if they were properly vaccinated (we had been
vaccinated on the “Polynesia"), and pronounced
everyone all right. Then they went away, except
one man who remained. An hour later we saw the
wharves.
Before the ship had fully stopped,
the climax of our joy was reached. One of us
espied the figure and face we had longed to see for
three long years. In a moment five passengers
on the “Polynesia” were crying, “Papa,”
and gesticulating, and laughing, and hugging one another,
and going wild altogether. All the rest were
roused by our excitement, and came to see our father.
He recognized us as soon as we him, and stood apart
on the wharf not knowing what to do, I thought.
What followed was slow torture.
Like mad things we ran about where there was room,
unable to stand still as long as we were on the ship
and he on shore. To have crossed the ocean only
to come within a few yards of him, unable to get nearer
till all the fuss was over, was dreadful enough.
But to hear other passengers called who had no reason
for hurry, while we were left among the last, was
unendurable.
Oh, dear! Why can’t we
get off the hateful ship? Why can’t papa
come to us? Why so many ceremonies at the landing?
We said good-bye to our friends as
their turn came, wishing we were in their luck.
To give us something else to think of, papa succeeded
in passing us some fruit; and we wondered to find
it anything but a great wonder, for we expected to
find everything marvellous in the strange country.
Still the ceremonies went on.
Each person was asked a hundred or so stupid questions,
and all their answers were written down by a very slow
man. The baggage had to be examined, the tickets,
and a hundred other things done before anyone was
allowed to step ashore, all to keep us back as long
as possible.
Now imagine yourself parting with
all you love, believing it to be a parting for life;
breaking up your home, selling the things that years
have made dear to you; starting on a journey without
the least experience in travelling, in the face of
many inconveniences on account of the want of sufficient
money; being met with disappointment where it was
not to be expected; with rough treatment everywhere,
till you are forced to go and make friends for yourself
among strangers; being obliged to sell some of your
most necessary things to pay bills you did not willingly
incur; being mistrusted and searched, then half starved,
and lodged in common with a multitude of strangers;
suffering the miseries of seasickness, the disturbances
and alarms of a stormy sea for sixteen days; and then
stand within, a few yards of him for whom you did
all this, unable to even speak to him easily.
How do you feel?
Oh, it’s our turn at last!
We are questioned, examined, and dismissed! A
rush over the planks on one side, over the ground on
the other, six wild beings cling to each other, bound
by a common bond of tender joy, and the long parting
is at an end.