THE NINETIETH BIRTHDAY OF EMPEROR WILLIAM.
To those who are fond of pageants
and who linger lovingly with past ages, such a spectacle
as Berlin witnessed on the 22d of March, 1887, must
have extraordinary attractions. Never in the long
life of the aged Emperor, whose ninetieth birthday
it was, had there been in splendor a rival to that
day, although his whole career was prolific of great
scenes and dramatic situations. Eighty-five royal
personages had accepted the invitation to visit the
Emperor on that occasion; and they came in person,
or sent special envoys, each accompanied by a more
or less imposing retinue. As guests of the Imperial
family, they were lodged in the various palaces of
Berlin and Potsdam, and entertained with most thoughtful
and sumptuous hospitality. The arrivals began
on Friday, March 18, and continued through the three
following days, until the list included the Prince
of Wales; the Crown Prince of Austria; the Grand Duke
and Duchess Vladimir and the Grand Duke Michel of
Russia; the Crown Prince and Princess of Sweden; the
King and Queen of Roumania; the King and Queen of Saxony;
the Prince and Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein;
the Grand Duke of Hesse and his daughter the Princess
Irene; the Grand Duchess of Baden; the Duke of Saxe-Meiningen;
the Hereditary Prince and Princess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz;
the Duke of Waldeck-Pyrmont, father of the Queen of
the Netherlands and the Duchess of Albany; the Dowager
Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin; the Grand Duchess
Marie, and a host of other royal notables. Costly
presents and beautiful flowers had been pouring in
to the Emperor for days before, from the members of
his own large family, the various diplomatic corps,
from royal friends, from learned societies, industrial
and philanthropic associations, with gifts from China,
Turkey, and other distant countries. Many of
the presents were arranged in a room in the Kaiser’s
palace, the centre-piece being a portrait of his favorite
and eldest great-grandson painted by the Crown Princess,
and surrounded by an elegant display of flowers.
This palace was reserved for the calls of the distinguished
guests, and for a State dinner of a hundred covers,
given to the visiting royalties on the eve of the birthday
by the Emperor and Empress. The palace of the
Crown Prince was decorated about the entrance with
palms and other exotics. Here the Crown Princess
entertained the Prince of Wales and the Princess Christian
with her family, three children of Queen
Victoria under the same roof. The Grand Duchess
of Baden, only daughter of the Emperor, was entertained
in the Dutch Palace, connected with the Emperor’s
by a corridor. One of those dramatic touches
in real life of which Emperor William was fond, was
the betrothal of the Princess Irene, daughter of the
Grand Duke of Hesse and the late Princess Alice of
England, to her cousin Prince Henry, second son of
the Crown Prince. It was announced by the Emperor
on his birthday, standing in the midst of the assembled
family, with the foreign princes grouped in a semicircle
around, the bride-elect leaning on her father’s
arm and blushingly receiving the congratulations of
all present. In the two days preceding his birthday,
the Emperor received not only his royal visitors, but
the representatives of Spain, Portugal, Turkey, Servia,
Japan, and China. The Old Schloss, with its six
hundred apartments and reception-rooms, was used for
the entertainment of royal guests. All the sunny
south windows facing the Schloss Platz rejoiced for
days beforehand in open draperies and freshly cleaned
plate glass, giving an unwonted look of cheer and
human habitableness to the majestic and venerable pile
through which we had walked, a few weeks before, with
hushed voices and muffled footsteps, gazing on the
rich decorations of the public rooms, the glittering
candelabra, the silver balustrades, the ancient plate,
the historic paintings and monuments which recall past
centuries and vanished sovereigns.
But the streets witnessed the most
memorable scenes. On the eve of the birthday
a torchlight procession of more than six thousand students
represented the Universities of Berlin, Bonn, Heidelberg,
Jena, Koenigsberg, Leipzig, Marburg, Munich, Strasburg,
and others; the Polytechnic Schools of Berlin, Brunswick,
Darmstadt, Dresden, Hanover, Karlsruhe, and Stuttgardt;
the Mining Academies of Berlin, Clausthal, and Freiberg;
and the Agricultural Schools of Berlin, Eberswalde,
and Tharandt. Opposite the Imperial Palace stands
the University, formerly the palace of
Prince Henry, amid old trees and gardens,
and with the fine colossal statues of the brothers
Humboldt in white marble, sitting on massive pedestals
on either side the main gateway. This was the
starting-point of the great procession, which was led
by two mounted students in the garb of Wallenstein’s
soldiers. Five abreast the torch-bearers approached
the Emperor’s palace, and before his windows
the Ziethen Hussars wheeled in and out in mystic evolutions.
A labyrinthine series of movements, marked in the
darkness only by the flaming torches, was executed
in perfect silence; then a simple hymn of the Middle
Ages was sung with singular effect by these thousands
of young and manly voices; and from the silence which
succeeded, at the call of a student standing in the
midst and waving his sword above his head, there arose
a “Three cheers for the Emperor!” while
six thousand torches swung to and fro, and hundreds
of flags and ancient banners waved in the evening
air. Again there was silence, when one struck
the National Anthem, which was sung with all heads
uncovered, the aged hero bowing low at his window
in acknowledgment until emotion obliged him to withdraw.
An incident soon on every tongue was the Emperor’s
sending for a deputation of the students to wait on
him, his kind reception of and conversation with them,
and their elation at the honor, notwithstanding their
mortification at the contrast of the smoke-soiled
hands and faces of the torch-bearers with the brilliance
of the Imperial chamber and the full dress of distinguished
visitors. Leaving the Emperor’s palace,
the procession passed through Unter den Linden and
the Brandenburg Gate to the Thiergarten, where amid
a dense and surging throng the students threw their
burning torches in a heap and sang over the expiring
flames, “Gaudeamus igitur juvenes dum
sumus.” Deputies from all the Universities,
dressed in black velvet coats, high boots, and plumed
hats, and bearing fine swords, brought up the rear
of the procession in thirty carriages, with the flags
of the old German towns and Universities floating
above them. I watched this torchlight procession
from a second-story window-seat on Unter den Linden,
and was much impressed with the general view, extending
from the equestrian statue of Frederick the Great
before the Emperor’s palace, where the entire
area was filled with reflected light, for nearly a
mile to the Brandenburg Gate, the various forms of
the waving torches on the long line seeming the very
apotheosis of flame. Many of the young men were
dressed in the picturesque taste peculiar to German
students. Gay feathers and unique caps set off
to advantage the fine features and fair complexions
which render some of the students remarkable, though
the faces are too often disfigured by tell-tale sabre-cuts.
After the passing of the procession, we drove through
a portion of the Potsdamer Straße where
the lamps were rather infrequent and the overarching
branches of the trees shut out the starlight from the
handsome street. Crowds were hurrying to and
fro, but to this we had become accustomed, when
suddenly we met a company of mounted students returning
from the park. In white wigs and high-peaked caps,
close-fitting white suits embroidered with gold, brilliant
sashes, and top-boots, they looked, in the dim light,
like knights of the Middle Ages returning from some
quest or tournament; and as they slowly filed by,
bowing to the greetings of the passers, it was hard
to believe for the moment that they were other than
they seemed.
The morning of the birthday dawned
bright and beautiful. “Emperor’s
weather this,” the Germans fondly said.
Before we left our breakfast-room the sound of chimes
was calling all the children of the city to the churches
for their share of the celebration. From my window
I saw at one time three large processions of children
passing in different directions through diverging
streets. All were marshalled by teachers from
the public schools in strictest order, and with fine
brass bands playing choral music as they entered the
church. Here the pastor, after prayer, addressed
the children on the blessings of peace and the life
of the good Emperor, and the children sang, as only
German children can, the patriotic songs of their country.
No more touching sight was seen that day than these
thousands of boys and girls passing into the churches,
with the sound of solemn music, to thank God for the
blessings of Fatherland and Emperor, a scene
which caused tears to roll down the cheeks of many
a spectator. It will be hard to uproot German
patriotism while its future fathers and mothers are
thus trained.
While the children were marching,
another procession was also passing, composed of the
magistrates and city officials, going to the Nicolai
Kirche (the oldest church in Berlin) for a similar
service. Every one was astir early, and before
ten o’clock a dense crowd filled the streets.
Horses, omnibuses, and tram-cars were garlanded and
decorated with flags, and the house fronts were bewildering
in color and decorations. The double-headed eagle,
signifying in the heraldry of Germany the Empire of
Charlemagne and that of the Caesars, was everywhere
intermingled with the German tri-color of red, white,
and black, with the black and white of Prussia, the
green of Saxony, the blue of Bavaria, and the orange,
purple, and other colors of the various principalities
and powers of the German Empire; hardly a house lacking
some brilliant flutter of symbolic colors. Only
an American in a foreign land can know how welcome
was the sight of “the stars and stripes”
floating majestically from two or three points on the
route; though in one case it was flanked by the crescent
and star of the Turkish Empire, and in another contrasted
with the blue dragon on a yellow ground which formed
the triangular flag of China. Miles of business
thoroughfares showed glittering and artistic arrangements
in the shop windows; nearly every one having its picture,
bust, or statue of the Emperor, some with
most elaborate and expensive designs. Between
ten and eleven A.M. the deputations from the Universities
passed through Unter den Linden, making a daylight
parade but little inferior to that of the evening
before. The dense throng immediately closed in
after the procession, but by great efforts the mounted
police cleared a passage for the State carriages to
the palace of the Emperor. At eleven o’clock
a magnificent royal carriage drew up at the palace
of the Crown Prince, who entered it, accompanied by
the Crown Princess and two daughters. They proceeded
to the presence of the Emperor, to offer the first
congratulations. Next came a carriage whose splendid
accompaniments eclipsed all others. Preceded by
a mounted herald in scarlet and silver, on a mettled
and caparisoned steed, and by other outriders in the
same glittering fashion, came the carriage, surmounted
by silver crowns, drawn by six horses; carriage, steeds,
coachman, and footmen in shining livery and flowing
plumes. At the door of the Crown Prince’s
palace the stout figure of the Prince of Wales, in
comparatively plain attire, stepped into this coach;
a lady was handed in after him, and the splendid equipage
rolled toward the Emperor’s palace, amid the
cheers of the multitude. From the Old Schloss,
a succession of royal carriages passed in the same
direction, all glittering in silver and gold and flowing
with plumes, many with four or six horses; until fully
fifty State carriages had deposited their occupants
at the palace of the Kaiser, and awaited, in the fine
open spaces around the famous equestrian statue of
Frederick the Great, the return of royalty from its
congratulations to the venerable object of all this
attention. Many of the royal visitors were known
by sight to the crowd, as Berlin sees much of royalty;
but many were not. The cheering was not enthusiastic,
except in special cases. “Who is that?”
said one near me, as a splendid carriage passed.
“I do not know,” replied another man;
“it is only one of those kings.” But
when the Crown Prince Frederick returned from his
call, “This is something else,” said the
proud German heart; and the cheers were deafening.
The greatest enthusiasm of the day was shown when
Prince William and his family passed, in the most
striking equipage of all, except that of the Prince
of Wales. It was a State carriage of the time
of Frederick the Great, its decorations of gold on
a dark body; a large, low vehicle whose glass windows
revealed the occupants on every side. Six Pomeranian
brown steeds of high mettle were guided by the skilful
driver, horses and outriders being splendidly caparisoned
in light blue and silver. Rudolph, Crown Prince
of Austria, solitary in his carriage, received his
share of attention, as did the Russian Grand Dukes
and Grand Duchess, the fine-looking King and Queen
of Saxony, the Prince-Regent of Bavaria with his two
sons of ten and twelve, and the Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz,
venerable sister of the Emperor. The Queen of
Roumania bowed to the throng with utmost grace, smiling
and showing her brilliant teeth; but whether the special
huzzas were a tribute to the beauty of the Queen,
or to the poetry of Carmen Sylva, we could not determine.
All things have an end; and so did this dazzling State
pageant, at which all Europe assisted and where all
Europe was looking on; but not until Bismarck’s
carriage had conveyed the Chancellor to his chief,
followed by General Von Moltke, who had the good taste
to drive up simply, with two horses and an open carriage
that interposed not even plate-glass between the great
soldier and the loyal multitude. A few moments
after their entrance, the Emperor appeared at the
palace window, Bismarck on his right and Von Moltke
on his left, and the hurrahs of the crowd burst forth
anew.
Later in the day the Crown Prince
and Crown Princess entertained the royal guests at
dinner; and Prince Bismarck, as usual on the Emperor’s
birthday, gave a dinner to the Diplomatic Corps.
A drizzling rain set in suddenly in the afternoon,
sending dismay to the hearts of all; for the most
brilliant part of the celebration was still in reserve
for the evening. The rain fell in occasional
light showers up to a late hour, but it dampened only
the outer garb, not the hearts, of the undiminished
multitude, which at night-fall, on foot or in carriages,
thronged the streets of the brilliant capital, whose
myriad lights showed to better advantage under the
reflecting clouds than they would have done under
starlight. The carriages numbered scores of thousands,
and the people on foot hundreds of thousands; but so
complete were the arrangements of the police and so
obedient the concourse, that all proceeded in nearly
perfect order. Our coachman fortunately drove
through Old Berlin and Koeln, as a preliminary to the
evening’s sight-seeing. Long arcades filled
with Jews’ shops were worthy the pen of Dickens.
This festal day made this most ancient portion of the
city also one of the most picturesque. Houses
with quaint dormer windows roofed by “eyelids,”
of an architecture dating back two or three hundred
years, gleamed with candles in every window. Almost
no house or shop was so poor as to dispense with its
share of the universal illumination. At least
three horizontal lines of lighted candles threaded
both sides of every street of this city of a million
and a half inhabitants. Many private as well
as public buildings in the old part showed by colored
lights the picturesque, quaint streets and nooks,
as no light of day can ever do. We were passing
the Rath-haus, or City Hall, a modern and
imposing edifice, at the time when its
great tower was being lighted up. Three hundred
feet above the pavement floated the flags grouped
in the centre and at the corners of the square tower.
Invisible red fires illuminated them, the shafts of
crimson light rising to the clouds above, the outlines
of the remainder of the building dimly reposing in
darkness. An immense electric light, guided by
a reflector in another tower, shot a bridge of white
light high in air across the river, and fell, like
a circumscribed space of noonday amid black darkness,
on the fine equestrian statue of the Great Elector
by the bridge behind the Old Castle, with an effect
almost indescribable. As we entered Unter den
Linden by the Lustgarten, the beautiful square
and its historic edifices, which form an ideal sight
even by daylight, glowed and gleamed with jets of
light from every point. The Old Schloss showed
continuous lines of illumination in the windows of
its four stories, along its front of six hundred and
fifty feet, while the majestic dome caught and reflected
rays of light from every point of the horizon.
On the opposite side of the Lustgarten, the Doric
portico of the National Gallery glowed with rose-colored
light from massive Grecian lamps, while the arched
entrance beneath its superb staircase gleamed with
a pale sea-green radiance like the entrance to some
ocean cave. The incomparable architecture of
the Old Museum was set in strong relief by white light,
which flooded its immense Ionic colonnade and brought
out the high colors of the colossal frescos along the
three hundred feet of its magnificent portico.
The front of the palace of the Crown Prince was thrown,
by innumerable jets, into a blaze of crimson.
The Roman Catholic Church of St. Hedwig, with its
dome in imitation of the Pantheon, its Latin cross
and window arches beaming in pale yellow, made a fine
background for the only unilluminated building, the
palace of the Emperor. From the Opera House,
the Arsenal, and the University, crowns and elaborate
designs were burning, yet unconsumed. Most elaborately
decorated of all Berlin buildings was the Academy of
Arts and Sciences, opposite the Imperial Palace, with
colossal warriors in bronze keeping guard at its portals,
and the Angel of Peace laying a laurel wreath on the
altar of Fatherland as its decorative centre-piece.
No high meaning of all its symbols was more touching
and significant than the appropriate texts of Scripture
written for the Kaiser’s eye, underneath its
elaborate frescos. But of what avail would be
an attempt to describe two miles of most beautiful
decorations along Unter den Linden, each one a study
in itself, and having nothing in common with the others,
except the eagles and the Emperor’s monogram;
and the innumerable points of light, massed in a world
of various forms, and in all the colors of the rainbow!
This glow of splendor surrounded by the dense darkness
covered the city, and the dazzling coronals of
its lofty towers and domes and spires must have been
visible to a great distance across the plains of Brandenburg.
Slowly the triple line of carriages
and the surging throng pressed onward, past the palaces
and diplomatic residences of the Pariser Platz; some
diverging down the Wilhelm Straße, where
streaming flags and blazing illuminations made noonday
brightness and gayety about the palace of the Chancellor,
but most passing through the Brandenburg Gate.
The massive Doric columns of this impressive structure
were in darkness, but the Chariot of Victory with
its fine bronze horses, surmounting the gate, was
weird with the scarlet light of Bengal fires burning
on the entablature.
As the artist rests his eyes by the
spot of neutral gray which he keeps for the purpose
on wall or palette, so brain and eye were prepared
for sleep at the close of this long day, by sitting
in our carriages, safe sheltered from the soft-falling
rain, outside the great gate which divided the splendor
from the darkness, for three quarters of an hour,
in an inextricable tangle of carriages, until the
perturbed coachmen and the sorely vexed police could
evolve order from the temporary confusion, and set
the hindered procession again on its homeward way.
Meantime the day was not over for
the much-enduring Emperor and his royal guests.
In the famous White Saloon of the Old Schloss an entertainment
was going forward. Blinding coronets and necklaces
on royal ladies made the interior of this ancient
palace more brilliant than its shining exterior on
this birth-night. The Empress Augusta, leaning
on the arm of her grandson, Prince William, was attired
in a lace-trimmed robe of pale green, her diamonds
a mass of sparkling light; the Crown Princess was
in silver-gray, the wife of the English Ambassador
in pale mauve, the Princess Christian in turquoise
blue; and the Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia wore
a magnificent robe of pink satin trimmed with sable,
with a tiara of diamonds and a stomacher of diamonds
and emeralds. From the neck and forehead of the
Queen of Roumania flashed a thousand prismatic hues;
and the Green Vault of Dresden sent some of its most
precious treasures to keep company with the fair Queen
of Saxony in adding brilliance to the scene.
Our reverie led from this starry point
in history back to the time when, as on this memorable
day, the royal salute of Berlin artillery shook the
city, to announce the birth of a prince ninety years
ago. A rapid, almost a chance recall of the years
shows us Washington then living on his estate at Mount
Vernon, Lafayette a young man of forty, Clay a stripling
of twenty, Webster a boy of fifteen. The Directory
in France had not yet made way for the First Republic;
the younger Pitt and Canning held England; Metternich
and O’Connell were in their youth, and Robert
Peel was a child of nine. Napoleon Bonaparte was
in the flush of youthful success, soon to become the
idol of France and the terror of Europe, before whom
the boy, now Kaiser Wilhelm, and his royal family
fled to Koenigsberg by the Baltic, while the conqueror
held Berlin and reduced Prussia to a second-rate province.
To this boy the flames of burning Moscow were a transient
aurora-borealis under the pole-star; and
Nelson and Wellington were unknown to the stories
of his childhood, for as yet their fame was not.
Goethe and Schiller were in the prime of early manhood;
Kant and Klopstock elderly, but with years yet to
live; Scott was just laying down his poet’s pen
and preparing to take up the immortal quill with which
he wrote his first “Waverley;” Moore was
singing his sweet melodies; Wordsworth had yet to
lay the foundations of the “Lake Poetry;”
and the fair boy, Byron, was chanting his early songs,
not yet for many a year to die at Missolonghi.
This wonderful old man of ninety,
gayly stooping to kiss the hand of a lady to-night
in his hospitable palace, like the young man that he
is, has a memory stretching from the battle of Austerlitz
across the gigantic struggles of the century to the
battle of Sedan, all of which he has seen,
and a part of which he has been!