ADEN.
Wretched and miserable as the appearance
of Aden must be deemed at the present moment, its
commanding situation rendered it of great importance
in former times. During the reign of Constantine,
it was an opulent city, forming one of the great emporia
for the commerce of the East. The sole remains
of the grandeur it once boasted consists of about
ninety dilapidated stone houses, the greater number
of dwellings which seem to shelter its scanty population
being nothing more than huts rudely constructed of
reeds. These wretched tenements, huddled together
without the slightest attempt at regularity, occupy
the crater of an extinct volcano. Unrelieved
by trees, and assimilating in colour with the arid
soil and barren hills rising around, they scarcely
convey an idea of the purpose for which they are designed.
A stranger, entering Aden, finds it
difficult to believe that he is in the midst of an
inhabited place, the houses appearing to be fewer in
number, and more insignificant, than a closer inspection
proves them to be. No splendid fragment, imposing
in its ruin, records the glory and opulence of the
populous city, as it existed in the days of Solyman
the Magnificent, the era from whence it dates its decline.
The possession of Aden was eagerly contended for by
the two great powers, the Turks and the Portuguese,
struggling for mastery in the East, and when they
were no longer able to maintain their rivalry, it reverted
into the hands of its ancient masters, the Arabs.
The security afforded by its natural defences, aided
by the fortifications, the work of former times, rendered
it a suitable retreat for the piratical hordes of
the desert. The lawless sons of Ishmael could,
from this stronghold, rush out upon the adjacent waters,
and make themselves masters of the wealth of those
adventurers who dared to encounter the dangers of
the Red Sea.
With the loss of every thing approaching
to good government, Aden lost its trade. The
system of monopoly, which enriches the sovereign at
the expense of the subject, speedily ends in ruin.
The superior classes of the inhabitants were either
driven away, in consequence of the tyranny which they
endured, or, reduced to a state of destitution, perished
miserably upon the soil, until at length the traces
of former magnificence became few and faint, the once
flourishing city falling into one wide waste of desolation.
The remains of a splendid aqueduct, which was at the
first survey mistaken for a Roman road; a solitary
watch-tower, and a series of broken walls, alone attest
the ancient glories of the place.
Previous to the occupation of the
British, the population of Aden scarcely exceeded
six hundred souls; it is now, independently of the
garrison, more nearly approaching to a thousand, and
of these the principal number are Jews, who, together
with about fifty Banians, have contrived to amass
a little of what, by comparison, may be called wealth.
The trade of Aden, for a long time before we obtained
our present possession, was very trifling, the imports
consisting of a few English cotton cloths, together
with lead, iron, and tin, which were brought by Buglas
on their way to Mocha; rice, dates, and small numbers
of cattle, likewise, coming from neighbouring places;
while the exports were limited to a little coffee,
millet, and a few drugs.
At the period of my visit to Aden,
the garrison were in almost momentary expectation
of an attack from the Arabs, who had gathered to the
amount of five thousand in the neighbourhood, and kept
the new occupants continually upon the alert.
Of course, in such a state of affairs, great differences
of opinion existed respecting the ultimate fate of
this interesting place. Many acute persons consider
the project of colonizing a barren spot, surrounded
by hostile tribes, by a handful of soldiers from India,
chimerical, especially in the teeth of predictions
which have for so long a period been fulfilled to the
letter. It is stated that the Imaum of Muscat
asked, in astonishment, whether we were mad enough
to contemplate the subjugation of the Arabs, the sons
of his father Ishmael; since we could not be so ignorant
of our own Scriptures as not to know that their hands
were to be eternally against every man, and every
man’s hand against theirs. But, although
the Arabs should continue hostile, while we are masters
of the sea, and can strengthen Aden so completely upon
the land-side, as to render it, what many people believe
it can be made, a second Gibraltar, we have a wide
field for commercial speculation in the opposite coast
of Africa.
Aden is, at present, a very expensive
possession, and the long period which has elapsed
since our occupation, without preparations having
been commenced for a permanent residence, has occasioned
an apprehension that it may be ultimately abandoned.
Many persons are, however, sanguine in the hope that,
as soon as scientific men have decided upon the best
site for a cantonment, buildings will be erected for
the reception of the garrison. These, it is confidently
expected, will be upon a grand scale, and of solid
construction. The greater portion of the materials
must be brought from distant places, and already some
of the European inhabitants are conveying from Bombay
those portable houses which are commonly set up during
the cold season on the Esplanade, and which will afford
a great improvement upon the dwellings of bamboos,
reeds, and mats, which at present form the abodes
of the officers of this establishment. It has
been satisfactorily ascertained, that the clearing
out and repairing the old tanks and wells will be
sufficient to secure an ample supply of water for
a very extensive population, the report of those gentlemen
employed in analyzing its quality being highly favourable.
A little allowance must, of course,
be made for the sanguine nature of the expectations
formed by persons whose imaginations are dazzled by
the splendid visions of the future arising before them;
still, enough appears to have been demonstrated to
justify a strong hope that there are no serious difficulties
in the way of our permanent occupation of a place
which we have succeeded in rescuing from Arab tyranny.
It will be long, perhaps, before the neighbouring
sheikhs will consent to an amicable arrangement with
the British authorities of Aden, for they at present
entertain the most exaggerated notions of the wealth
of its new possessors.
The English, with their usual thoughtless
improvidence, threw about their money so carelessly,
that, soon after their arrival, every article of household
consumption doubled and trebled in price, the remuneration
for labour rising in proportion. This improvident
expenditure has had the effect of making the people
discontented. Imagining our resources to be inexhaustible,
they do not know how much to ask for their commodities
or their services, and it will require great firmness
and discretion, on the part of the persons in authority,
to settle the fair price for both. The erection
of new houses, which are called for by nearly every
fresh arrival, even in their present light construction,
serves very materially to enrich the inhabitants of
Aden, the natural consequence being an increase of
the industrious portion of the population, while it
may be confidently expected that the commencement
of superior works will attract a superior class of
persons to the place.
The present Resident is a strenuous
advocate for the abolition of all duties, at least
for a time; and should the representations made by
him, and other persons well acquainted with the character
and resources of the surrounding countries, succeed
in inducing the Government of India to render Aden
a free port, it would soon become the queen of the
adjacent seas. The town of Senna is only at the
distance of seven or eight days’ journey for
camels and merchandize. The coffee districts
are actually nearer to it than to Mocha, and the road
equally safe and convenient; other large towns in Yemen
are within an easy journey, and the rich and populous
places in the province of Hydramut are open for its
trade.
The mountains to the north of Aden
produce gums, frankincense, and coffee, which would
soon find their way to so promising a market.
Its harbour being immediately to the north of Barbar,
vessels during the north-eastern monsoon would reach
it with the produce of Africa in twenty-four hours,
returning with British and Indian produce in the same
time. All the exports of Hanall, and other large
interior towns on the opposite coast, consisting of
coffee, gums, myrrh, hides, elephants’ teeth,
gold dust, ostrich feathers, &c, would be conveyed
to Aden, to be exchanged for piece goods, chintzes,
cutlery, and rice; all of which would find a ready
market. The manufactures of India and of Great
Britain would thus be very extensively introduced,
there being good reason to believe that they would
be largely purchased in the provinces of Yemen and
Hydramut.
Amongst the great advantages which
Aden possesses over Mocha, is the situation of its
harbour, which may be entered by a ship or boat at
any period of the year, and quitted with the same facility:
whereas its rival port is so difficult of access in
the months of March, April, and May, that boats are
sometimes six, seven, or eight days getting to the
straits, a distance of forty miles only. These
are considerations worthy of the attention of merchants,
the length of the voyage not being the sole source
of annoyance, since vessels taking cargoes at Aden
save the great wear and tear occasioned in their return
down the Red Sea.
Perhaps, considering the difficulty
of conciliating the semi-barbarous tribes in the neighbourhood,
the trade and population of Aden have increased as
much as we could reasonably hope; but when peace shall
at length be established, it will doubtless attract
merchants and Banians from Surat, as well as
all other adjacent places. If at this moment
our expectations have not been completely answered,
we have at least the satisfaction of knowing that,
besides having saved the Red Sea from the encroachments
of the Pasha of Egypt, we have anticipated a rival
power, which has already derived greater advantage
from our supineness, with regard to our Eastern possessions,
than is desirable.
The Americans, during 1833-4-5, had
a small squadron looking all about for a spot which
they could turn to good account. Socotra, from
its convenient position between Africa and Arabia,
proved a point of attraction, and had not Capt.
Haines, of the Indian Navy, promptly taken possession,
in the name of Great Britain, they would in all probability
have succeeded in effecting a settlement. With
their usual attention to the interests of their commerce,
the Americans have a resident permanently stationed
at Zanzibar, and have made advantageous arrangements
with the Imaum of Muscat, whereby the trade with the
United States has greatly increased; American ships
are constantly arriving, with piece-goods, glass-ware,
&c, and returning with profitable cargoes, the produce
of Africa.
The inhabitants of Aden appear to
be a peaceable race, generally well affected to the
government, from which they cannot fail to derive
advantage. The Jews, as I have before mentioned,
are the most important, both in consequence of their
number and of their superior wealth; they belong to
the tribe of Judah, and are very industrious, being
the manufacturers of the place.
It is by the Jews and their families,
the females assisting, that a coarse kind of cloth,
employed for their own garments, and also sold to
strangers, is spun and woven. This cloth is in
much esteem amongst the Arabs: when prepared
for them, it is dyed blue, sometimes ornamented with
red borders, indigo being employed, together with
extracts from other plants. The women generally
wear a single loose garment, covering the head with
a handkerchief when they leave the house; they do
not, however, conceal their faces. Previous to
the occupation of Aden, the Jewesses were remarkable
for the propriety of their manners, but as they are
esteemed handsome, and moreover attract by their good
temper and intelligence, it is to be feared that they
will meet with many temptations to depart from the
decorum they have hitherto maintained. Like their
sex and peculiar race, they are fond of ornaments,
adorning themselves with large silver ear-rings, bracelets,
necklaces, and armlets. Hitherto, whatever wealth
they possessed, they were obliged to conceal, the
Arabs proving very severe and oppressive masters;
their prospects are now brightening, and they have
already shown a disposition to profit by the new order
of things, having opened shops in the bazaar, and
commenced trading in a way they never ventured upon
before.
Nor is it in spinning and weaving
alone that the Jews of Aden excel; artizans in silver
and copper are to be found amongst them, together
with stone-cutters, and other handicrafts-men.
They have a school for the education of their male
youth, the females not having yet enjoyed this advantage,
in consequence of the intolerance of the Arabs, who
view with prejudiced eyes every attempt to emancipate
women from the condition to which they have been so
long reduced.
The means of instruction possessed
by the Jews of Aden are not very extensive, a few
printed Bibles and MS. extracts forming the whole
of their literature. It has been thought that
missionaries would here find a fair field for their
exertions; but, unfortunately, the most promising
places in the East are, by some mistake, either of
ignorance or ambition, left wholly destitute of Christian
teachers. While the pledges of Government are
compromised in India, and its stability threatened,
by the daring attempts to make converts at the presidencies,
and other considerable places, where success is attended
with great noise and clamour, many portions of the
Company’s territories, in which much quiet good
might be effected, are left entirely without religious
aid.
The Banians, though small in
number, rank next to the Jews in importance, and are,
perhaps, more wealthy; they are not, however, so completely
identified with the soil, for they do not bring their
families with them when emigrating to Aden from the
places of their birth. The greater number come
from Cutch, arriving at an early period of life, and
with the craft that usually distinguishes them, studying
the character of the Arabs, and making the most of
it. They are not esteemed such good subjects
to the new government as the Jews, their expectations
of benefit from a change of masters, in consequence
of their having proved the chief gainers heretofore,
being less sanguine.
The Soomalees are natives of Barbora,
and are in number about two hundred. They employ
themselves in making baskets, mats, and fans, from
the leaves of a species of palm-tree; they are not
so active and industrious as the Jews, but the younger
portion, if brought up in European families, might,
with the advantage of good tuition, become useful
as servants and labourers. They are Mohamedans,
but not very strict, either in their religious or
moral principles, violating oaths sworn upon the Koran,
and cheating and thieving whenever they can.
The love of money, however, is a strong stimulus to
improvement, and where it exists, or can be created,
the case is far more hopeful than when the wants and
desires are both limited. The Soomalee women are
reckoned handsome, though in that respect they cannot
compare with the Jewesses, their complexions
being much darker and their hair coarse; they have
tall, well-proportioned figures, and are as attentive
to their dress and appearance as their poverty will
admit. The Arabs are the least prepossessing
of all the inhabitants of Aden, and it will be long
before any confidence can be placed in them. They
religiously conceal their women, and are a bigoted,
prejudiced race, disaffected of course to the new
government, and shy of intercourse with the British
occupants.
That the hopes entertained of the
prosperity of Aden have not been more speedily realized,
may be attributed to the prevalent belief that its
new masters could not maintain their ground against
the hostile Arabs of the neighbourhood. It is
the opinion of a competent judge, that, “as
soon as the inhabitants of distant countries feel convinced
that our occupation of Aden is intended to be a permanent,
and not a temporary measure, they will establish agencies
there under our flag, in preference to any other,
and open an extensive traffic.” The same
authority states that “it is the opinion of the
Banians and Arabs, that Aden will regain
her former commercial renown.”
With respect to the goods at present
in requisition, or likely to meet a sale, at Aden,
we learn from the report above quoted, that “of
the manufactures of Europe, coloured handkerchiefs
and hardware are only in demand, though longcloths
are procurable and are sometimes purchased by the
Arabs; but these articles are priced so high, as to
prevent any great consumption of them. From what
I observed of the Arab disposition and taste, I certainly
believe that coloured cotton goods of fast
colours, and of patterns similar to those elsewhere
specified, if offered at rates somewhat reasonable,
would in a very short period meet with an extensive
sale, and be rapidly introduced into common use amongst
the Arabs of the interior. The novelty of the
experiment would at first induce the Arabs to become
purchasers, when, finding the articles good,
it is but reasonable to anticipate an extensive demand.
The colours should be particularly attended to, for
the certainty of obtaining goods of fast colours
would alone ensure the articles in question a speedy
sale. The handkerchiefs that have already been
introduced into Aden are of the worst sort relative
to colour, generally becoming after two or three washings
white, or nearly so; thus it cannot be wondered at
if these goods meet with but a poor demand.”
The ravages committed by the army
of the Pasha of Egypt, in the fertile districts of
the neighbourhood of Aden, have been prejudicial to
the interests of the new settlement, and perhaps so
long as the hope of plunder can be entertained by
the petty princes, who rule the adjacent districts,
they will be unwilling to wait for the slower advantages
derivable from commerce. The apparently reckless
expenditure of the British residents, and the princely
pay given to the soldiers of the garrison, have offered
so dazzling a prospect of gain, that they (the native
chiefs) will have some difficulty in abandoning the
hope of making themselves masters, at a single blow,
of all the treasure brought to their shores.
It is said that some Turks, deserters from Mehemet
Ali, who took refuge in Aden, upon being made acquainted
with the amount of pay given to the British troops,
and the regularity with which it was issued, exclaimed,
“God is great, and the English are immortal!”
During the proper seasons, Aden is
well supplied with fruit; its trade in honey and wax
might become very important, the adjacent countries
yielding abundance of both, and of so fine a quality,
as to compete with the produce of the hives of the
Mediterranean. Drugs are procurable in equal
abundance, together with perfumes and spices.
The European inhabitants are, of course, compelled
to send to Bombay for those luxuries which habit has
rendered necessary; the constant communication with
the presidency renders them easily procurable, while
the intercourse with India and England, by means of
the steamers, relieves the monotony which would otherwise
be severely felt.
I could have spent two or three days
with great pleasure at Aden, inquiring into its early
history, present condition, and future prospects,
and regretted much when a summons reached me to depart.
We entertained a hope that the steamer would come
round and take us off at the northern point; however,
we were obliged to return the way we came. There
are, and have been since its occupation, several English
ladies living at Aden, but whether they have not shown
themselves sufficiently often to render their appearance
familiar, or the curiosity of the people is not easily
satisfied, I cannot say; but I found myself an object
of great attention to the women and children.
The sun having declined, the whole
of the population of Aden seemed to be abroad, and
many well-dressed and good-looking women were seated
on the rude steps and broken walls of the stone houses
before-mentioned. As they saw me smiling upon
them, they drew nearer, salaamed, and laughed in return,
and appeared to examine my dress as closely as the
open doors of the palanquin would permit. Some
of the very little children turned away in horror
from a white face, but the greater number seemed much
pleased with the notice taken of them. While
waiting a few minutes for my party, my bearers wanted
to drive them away, but this I would not permit, and
we carried on a very amicable intercourse by signs,
both being apparently mutually delighted with each
other. Their vivacity and good-humour made a favourable
impression upon my mind, and I should like to have
an opportunity of becoming better acquainted with
them, feeling strongly tempted to proceed to Aden
on my return to England in a sailing vessel, and await
there the arrival of a steamer to convey me up the
Red Sea to Cosseir or to Suez.
I was offered a present of a milch-goat
at Aden, but not being able to consult with the captain
of the Berenice concerning its introduction
on board, I did not like to allow the poor creature
to run any risk of neglect. Its productiveness
would soon have diminished on board a steamer, and
it was so useful in a place like Aden, that I could
not feel justified in taking it away for my own gratification.
I obtained, however, a bottle of milk, and when I
got on board, having dined early, and being moreover
exhausted with my journey, as I was only recovering
from an attack of fever, I wished to have some tea.
This was too great an indulgence to be granted by
the petty authorities who ruled over the passengers.
Unfortunately, upon leaving Suez, I had given away
all my tea to my servant, Mohammed, who was fond of
it, nothing doubting that I should be able to procure
as much as I pleased on board the steamer. The
refusal was the more provoking, as there was plenty
of boiling water ready, and I had humbly limited my
request to a spoonful of tea. Under the circumstances,
I was obliged to content myself with milk and water:
had the captain or the surgeon of the vessel been
at hand, I should doubtless have been supplied with
every thing I wanted, but in their absence, it was
impossible to procure a single article. Upon
one occasion, while tea was serving, a passenger in
the saloon asked for a cup, and was told to go upon
deck for it.
I also procured a supply of soda water
at Aden. I had suffered much from the want of
this refreshing beverage during my fever, the supply
taken on board having been exhausted on the voyage
up. The passengers down the Red Sea have the
disadvantage of sailing with exhausted stores.
It seems hardly fair to them, especially in cases of
illness, that the whole of any particular article
should be given to the people who embark at Bombay,
they having a right to expect that, as they pay the
same price, a portion should be reserved for their
use.
On the second day after our departure
from Aden that is, the 22nd of October we
arrived at Makallah. It was mid-day before the
vessel ceased to ply her engines, and though invited
to go on shore, as we could not penetrate beyond the
walls of the town, we thought it useless to exchange
our cabins for a hot room in the mansion of its ruler.
The town of Makallah, which forms the principal commercial
depot of the south-west of Arabia, is built upon a
rocky platform of some length, but of very inconsiderable
width, backed by a perfect wall of cliffs, and bounded
in front by the sea. It seems tolerably well
built for an Arabian town, many of the houses being
of a very respectable appearance, two or more stories
in height, and ornamented with small turrets and cupolas:
the nakib, or governor’s residence, is large,
with a high square tower, which gives it the air of
a citadel.
There is not a tree or shrub to be
seen, the absence of vegetation investing the place
with a character of its own, and one that harmonizes
with the bold and bare rocks which bound the coast
on either side. We were told that, between two
ranges of hills close to the entrance of the town,
a beautiful green valley occurred, watered by delicious
springs, and shaded by date-trees. Had we arrived
at an early period of the morning, we might have spent
the day on this delightful place, proceeding to it
on the backs of camels or donkeys, or even on foot;
but it being impossible to get thither while the sun
was in full power, we were obliged to content ourselves
with a description of its beauties.
Although a very good understanding
exists between our Government and that of Makallah,
which has for some time been a depot of coal for the
use of the steamers, it is not advisable for visitors
to proceed very far from the town without protection.
A midshipman belonging to the Indian navy having gone
on shore for the purpose of visiting the valley before-mentioned,
and straying away to some distance, attracted by the
beauty of the scenery, was suddenly surrounded by a
party of Bedouins, who robbed him of all he possessed,
cutting off the buttons from his clothes, under the
idea that they were of gold an impression
which obtains all over the coast, and which inspired
the people who made the last assault upon Aden with
the hope of a rich booty.
The population of Makallah is estimated
at about 4,600 people, of various tribes and countries,
the chief portion being either of the Beni Hassan
and Yafai tribes, together with Banians, Kurachies,
and emigrants from nearly all parts of the adjacent
coasts. It carries on rather a considerable trade
in gums, hides, and drugs, which, with coffee, form
the exports, receiving in return iron, lead, manufactured
cloths, earthenware, and rice, from Bombay, and all
the productions of the neighbouring countries, slaves
included, in which the traffic is said to be very
great.
The gentlemen who went on shore purchased
very pretty and convenient baskets, wrought in various
colours, and also quantities of sweetmeats, which
are much in esteem in India; these are composed of
honey and flour, delicately made, the honey being converted
into a soft kind of paste, with a coating of the flour
on the outside. These sweetmeats were nicely
packed in straw baskets, of a different manufacture
from those before-mentioned, and were very superior
to the common sort which is brought from the coast
in small coarse earthenware basins, exceedingly unattractive
in their appearance.
The interior of the country is said
to be very beautiful, abundantly watered by refreshing
springs, and shaded by groves of date-trees.
Amongst its animal productions, the most beautiful
is the gazelle, which, properly speaking, is only
to be found in Arabia; a delicate and lovely creature,
with the soft black eye which has been from time immemorial
the theme of poets. The gazelle is easily tamed,
becoming in a short time very familiar, and being
much more gentle, as well as more graceful, than the
common antelope. Its movements are the most airy
and elegant imaginable. It is fond of describing
a circle in a succession of bounds, jumping off the
ground on four legs, and touching it lightly as it
wheels round and round. At other times, it pirouettes
upon the two fore feet, springing round at the same
time like an opera-dancer; in fact, it would appear
as if Taglioni, and all our most celebrated artistes,
had taken lessons from the gazelle, so much do their
chefs-d’oeuvre resemble its graceful motions.
When domesticated, the gazelle loves to feed upon roses,
delighting apparently in the scent as well as the
taste. It is the fashion in the East to add perfume
to the violet, and I found these gazelles would eat
with much zest roses that had been plentifully sprinkled
with their extract, the goolabee paanee, so
greatly in request. The gazelle is also very
fond of crisply-toasted bread, a taste which must
be acquired in domestication. It is a courageous
animal, and will come readily to the assault, butting
fiercely when attacked. In taking a gazelle away
from Arabia, it should be carefully guarded against
cold and damp, and if not provided with water-proof
covering to its feet, would soon die if exposed to
the wet decks of a ship.
We had lost at Aden our fellow-passenger,
whom I have mentioned as having assumed the Turkish
dress for the purpose of penetrating into the interior
of Abyssinia. He depended, in a great measure,
for comfort and safety, upon two native priests, whom
he had brought with him from Cairo, and who, in return
for his liberality, had promised all the protection
and assistance in their power. He left us with
the good wishes of all the party, and not without some
fears in the breasts of those who contemplated the
hazards which he ran. Young and good-looking,
he had, with pardonable, but perhaps dangerous, vanity,
studied the becoming in his costume, which was composed
of the very finest materials. His long outer
garment, of a delicate woollen texture, was lined
throughout with silk, and the crimson cap, which he
wore upon his head, was converted into a turban by
a piece of gold muslin wound round it. He expected
nothing less than to be plundered and stripped of
this fine apparel, and it will be well for him should
he escape with life. The adventure and the romance
of the undertaking possessed great charms, and he
talked, after spending some years in a wild and wandering
career, of sitting down quietly in his paternal halls,
introducing as many of the Egyptian customs as would
be tolerated in a Christian country.
A short residence in Cairo proves
very captivating to many Englishmen; they like the
independent sort of life which they lead; their perfect
freedom from all the thralls imposed by society at
home, and, when tired of dreaming away existence after
the indolent fashion of the East, plunge into the
surrounding deserts, and enjoy all the excitement
attendant upon danger. Numerous anecdotes were
related to me of the hardships sustained by young
English travellers, who, led by the spirit of adventure,
had trusted themselves to the Bedouins, and, though
escaping with life, had suffered very severely from
hunger, thirst, and fatigue. I have no reason
to doubt the veracity of one of these enterprising
tourists, who assured me that he had passed through
the holy city of Mecca. According to his account,
he had made friends with an Arab boy, who offered
to afford him a glimpse of the city, provided he would
consent to pass rapidly through it, at an early hour
in the morning. Accordingly, disguised in Mohamedan
garb, and mounted upon a camel, they entered and quitted
it at opposite ends, without exciting curiosity or
remark. Of course, he could see nothing but the
exterior of the houses and mosques, only obtaining
a partial view of these; but, considering the difficulty
and peril of the undertaking, the pleasure of being
able to say that he had succeeded in an achievement
which few would be daring enough to attempt, was worth
running some risks.
Notwithstanding the intolerant spirit
generally manifested by the Arabs, those English strangers
who embrace their way of life for a time frequently
attach them very strongly to their persons, obtaining
concessions from them which could scarcely be expected
from a people so bigoted in their religious opinions,
and entertaining so contemptible an opinion of those
who are followers of other creeds. In spite of
the faults of his character for he is frequently
deceitful, treacherous, cruel, and covetous the
Arab of the desert is usually much respected by the
dwellers in towns. His independent spirit is
admired by those who could not exist without the comforts
and conveniences of life, which he disdains.
It is no uncommon sight, either at Cairo or Alexandria,
to see a handsome young Bedouin, splendidly attired,
lodging in the open street by the side of his camel,
for nothing will persuade him to sleep in a house;
he carries the habits of the desert into the city,
and in the midst of congregated thousands, dwells
apart.
We, who merely crossed the desert
from Cairo to Suez, could form little idea of the
pleasures which a longer sojourn and more extended
researches would afford the poetry of the
life which the Arab leads. Nothing, I was told,
could exceed the enjoyments of the night, when, after
a day of burning heat, the cool breezes came down from
elevated valleys, occurring between the ranges of
hills which I had observed with so much interest.
This balmy air brings with it perfumes wafted from
sweet-scented flowers, which spring spontaneously in
the green spots known to the gazelle, who repairs
to them to drink. Although the dews are heavy,
the Arab requires no more protection than that afforded
by his blanket, and he lies down under the most glorious
canopy, the broad vault of heaven with its countless
spangles, no artificial object intervening throughout
the large circle of that wide horizon. Here,
his ablutions, prayers, and evening-meal concluded,
he either sinks into profound repose, or listens to
the tales of his companions, of daring deeds and battles
long ago, or the equally interesting though less exciting
narratives of passing events; some love-story between
persons of hostile tribes, or the affection of a betrothed
girl for a stranger, and its melancholy consequences.
Notwithstanding the slight estimation
in which the sex is held by the fierce and jealous
Arab jealous more from self-love than from
any regard to the object that creates this feeling there
is still much of the romantic to be found in his domestic
history. English travellers, who have acquired
a competent knowledge of the language, may collect
materials for poems as tragical and touching as those
which Lord Byron loved to weave. I could relate
several in this place, picked up by my fellow-travellers,
but as they may at some period or other desire to
give them to the public themselves, it would be scarcely
fair to anticipate their intention.
We now began to look out with some
anxiety for the arrival of the steamer at Bombay,
speculating upon the chances of finding friends able
to receive us. As we drew nearer and nearer, the
recollection of the good hotels which had opened their
hospitable doors for us in the most unpromising places,
caused us to lament over the absence of similar establishments
at the scene of our destination. Bombay has been
aptly denominated the landing-place of India; numbers
of persons who have no acquaintance upon the island
pass through it on their way to Bengal, or to the
provinces, and if arriving by the Red Sea, are totally
unprovided with the means of making themselves comfortable
in the tents that may be hired upon their landing.
A tent, to a stranger in India, appears
to be the most forlorn residence imaginable, and many
cannot be reconciled to it, even after long custom.
To those, however, who do not succeed in obtaining
invitations to private houses, a tent is the only resource.
It seems scarcely possible that the number of persons,
who are obliged to live under canvas on the Esplanade,
would not prefer apartments at a respectable hotel,
if one should be erected for the purpose; yet it is
said that such an establishment would not answer.
Bombay can never obtain the pre-eminence over Calcutta,
which it is so anxious to accomplish, until it will
provide the accommodation for visitors which the City
of Palaces has afforded during several years past.
However agreeable the overland journey may be, it
cannot be performed without considerable fatigue.
The voyage down the Red Sea, in warm
weather especially, occasions a strong desire for
rest; even those persons, therefore, who are so fortunate
as to be carried off to friends’ houses, immediately
upon their arrival, would much prefer the comfort
and seclusion of a hotel, for the first day or two
at least. The idea of going amongst strangers,
travel-soiled and travel-worn, is anything but agreeable,
more particularly with the consciousness that a week’s
baths will scarcely suffice to remove the coal-dust
collected in the steamers of the Red Sea: for
my own part, I contemplated with almost equal alarm
the prospect of presenting myself immediately upon
the termination of my voyage, or of being left, on
the charge of eight rupees per diem, to the
tender mercies of the vessel.
We entered the harbour of Bombay in
the evening of the 29th of October, too late to contemplate
the beauty of its scenery, there being unfortunately
no moon. As soon as we dropped anchor, a scene
of bustle and excitement took place. The boxes
containing the mails were all brought upon deck, the
vessel was surrounded with boats, and the first news
that greeted our ears news that was communicated
with great glee was the damage done by
fire to the Atalanta steamer. This open
manifestation, by the officers of the Indian navy,
of dislike to a service to which they belong, is,
to say the least of it, ill-judged. A rapid increase
in the number of armed steam-vessels may be calculated
upon, while the destruction of half of those at present
employed would scarcely retard the progress of this
mighty power a power which may alter the
destinies of half the world. The hostility, therefore,
of persons who cannot hope by their united opposition
to effect the slightest change in the system, becomes
contemptible.
It is a wise proverb which recommends
us not to show our teeth unless we can bite.
To expose the defects of steamers, may produce their
remedy; but to denounce them altogether, is equally
useless and unwise, since, however inconvenient they
may be, no person, with whom despatch is an object,
will hesitate to prefer them to a sailing-vessel;
while every officer, who takes the Queen’s or
the Company’s pay, should consider it to be
his duty to uphold the service which tends to promote
the interests of his country.