About this time (the nineteenth and
twentieth of August), the explorers lost by death
the only member of their party who did not survive
the journey. Floyd River, which flows into the
Upper Missouri, in the northwest corner of Iowa, still
marks the last resting-place of Sergeant Charles Floyd,
who died there of bilious colic and was buried by his
comrades near the mouth of the stream. Near here
was a quarry of red pipestone, dear to the Indian
fancy as a mine of material for their pipes; traces
of this deposit still remain. So fond of this
red rock were the Indians that when they went there
to get the stuff, even lifelong and vindictive enemies
declared a truce while they gathered the material,
and savage hostile tribes suspended their wars for
a time.
On the north side of the Missouri, at a point in what is now
known as Clay County, South Dakota, Captains Lewis and Clark, with ten men,
turned aside to see a great natural curiosity, known to the Indians as the Hill
of Little Devils. The hill is a singular mound in the midst of a flat prairie,
three hundred yards long, sixty or seventy yards wide, and about seventy feet
high. The top is a smooth level plain. The journal says: -
“The Indians have made it a
great article of their superstition: it is called
the Mountain of Little People, or Little Spirits; and
they believe that it is the abode of little devils,
in the human form, of about eighteen inches high,
and with remarkably large heads; they are armed with
sharp arrows, with which they are very skilful, and
are always on the watch to kill those who should have
the hardihood to approach their residence. The
tradition is, that many have suffered from these little
evil spirits, and, among others, three Maha Indians
fell a sacrifice to them a few years since. This
has inspired all the neighboring nations, Sioux, Mahas,
and Ottoes, with such terror, that no consideration
could tempt them to visit the hill. We saw none
of these wicked little spirits, nor any place for
them, except some small holes scattered over the top;
we were happy enough to escape their vengeance, though
we remained some time on the mound to enjoy the delightful
prospect of the plain, which spreads itself out till
the eye rests upon the northwest hills at a great
distance, and those of the northeast, still farther
off, enlivened by large herds of buffalo feeding at
a distance.”
The present residents of the region,
South Dakota, have preserved the Indian tradition,
and Spirit Mound may be seen on modern maps of that
country.
Passing on their way up the Missouri,
the explorers found several kinds of delicious wild
plums and vast quantities of grapes; and here, too,
they passed the mouth of the Yankton River, now known
as the Dakota, at the mouth of which is the modern
city of Yankton, South Dakota. The Yankton-Sioux
Indians, numbering about one thousand people, inhabited
this part of the country, and near here the white men
were met by a large band of these Sioux who had come
in at the invitation of Lewis and Clark. The
messengers from the white men reported that they had
been well received by the Indians, who, as a mark
of respect, presented their visitors with “a
fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook heartily
and found it well-flavored.” From this time,
according to the journal, the explorers tasted occasionally
of roast dog, and later on they adopted this dish
as a regular feature of their bill-of-fare. They
do tell us, however, that they had some difficulty
in getting used to so novel an article of food.
The Sioux and the white men held a grand council under an
oak-tree, from the top of which was flying the American flag. The head
chief was presented with a gold-laced uniform of the United States artillery, a
cocked hat and red feather. The lesser chiefs were also presented with suitable
gifts of lesser value. Various festivities followed the conference. Next day
another powwow was held at which the head chief, Weucha, or Shake Hand, said: -
“’I see before me my great
father’s two sons. You see me and the rest
of our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor;
we have neither powder, nor ball, nor knives; and
our women and children at the village have no clothes.
I wish that, as my brothers have given me a flag and
a medal, they would give something to those poor people,
or let them stop and trade with the first boat which
comes up the river. I will bring the chiefs of
the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make peace between
them; but it is better that I should do it than my
great father’s sons, for they will listen to
me more readily. I will also take some chiefs
to your country in the spring; but before that time
I cannot leave home. I went formerly to the English,
and they gave me a medal and some clothes: when
I went to the Spaniards they gave me a medal, but nothing
to keep it from my skin: but now you give me
a medal and clothes. But still we are poor; and
I wish, brothers, you would give us something for our
squaws.’”
When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose:
“‘I have listened,’
said he, ’to what our father’s words were
yesterday; and I am to-day glad to see how you have
dressed our old chief. I am a young man, and
do not wish to take much; my fathers have made me
a chief; I had much sense before, but now I think I
have more than ever. What the old chief has declared
I will confirm, and do whatever he and you please;
but I wish that you would take pity on us, for we
are very poor.’
“Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then
said:
“’I am a young man, and
know but little; I cannot speak well, but I have listened
to what you have told the old chief, and will do whatever
you agree.’
“The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache.
“We were surprised,” the
journal says, “at finding that the first of
these titles means Struck by the Pawnee, and was occasioned
by some blow which the chief had received in battle
from one of the Pawnee tribe. The second is in
English Half Man, which seemed a singular name for
a warrior, till it was explained to have its origin,
probably, in the modesty of the chief, who, on being
told of his exploits, would say, ‘I am no warrior,
I am only half a man.’ The other chiefs
spoke very little; but after they had finished, one
of the warriors delivered a speech, in which he declared
he would support them. They promised to make
peace with the Ottoes and Missouris, the only nations
with whom they are at war. All these harangues
concluded by describing the distress of the nation:
they begged us to have pity on them; to send them
traders; that they wanted powder and ball; and seemed
anxious that we should supply them with some of their
great father’s milk, the name by which they
distinguish ardent spirits. We gave some tobacco
to each of the chiefs, and a certificate to two of
the warriors who attended the chief We prevailed on
M. Durion (interpreter) to remain here, and
accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs as he could collect
to the seat of government. We also gave his son
a flag, some clothes, and provisions, with directions
to bring about a peace between the surrounding tribes,
and to convey some of their chiefs to see the President.
“The Indians who have just left
us are the Yanktons, a tribe of the great nation of
Sioux. These Yanktons are about two hundred men
in number, and inhabit the Jacques, Des
Moines, and Sioux Rivers. In person they
are stout, well proportioned, and have a certain air
of dignity and boldness. In their dress they
differ nothing from the other bands of the nation
whom we met afterwards.”
Of the Sioux let us say here, there are many bands, or
subdivisions. Some writers make eighteen of these principal branches.
But the first importance is given to the Sioux proper, or Dakotas. The
name Sioux is one of reproach, given by their enemies, and signifies snake;
whereas Dakota means friend or ally. The Lewis and Clark journal
says of the Yankton-Sioux: -
“What struck us most was an
institution peculiar to them and to the Kite (Crow)
Indians further to the westward, from whom it is said
to have been copied. It is an association of
the most active and brave young men, who are bound
to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, never
to retreat before any danger, or give way to their
enemies. In war they go forward without sheltering
themselves behind trees, or aiding their natural valor
by any artifice. Their punctilious determination
not to be turned from their course became heroic,
or ridiculous, a short time since, when the Yanktons
were crossing the Missouri on the ice. A hole
lay immediately in their course, which might easily
have been avoided by going around. This the foremost
of the band disdained to do, but went straight forward
and was lost. The others would have followed his
example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of
the tribe. These young men sit, camp, and dance
together, distinct from the rest of the nation; they
are generally about thirty or thirty-five years old,
and such is the deference paid to courage that their
seats in council are superior to those of the chiefs
and their persons more respected. But, as may
be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will soon diminish
the numbers of those who practise it; so that the
band is now reduced to four warriors, who were among
our visitors. These were the remains of twenty-two
who composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle
with the Kite (Crow) Indians of the Black Mountains,
eighteen of them were killed, and these four were
dragged from the field by their companions.”
Just above the site of the city of
Yankton, and near what is still known as Bon Homme
Island, Captain Clark explored a singular earth formation
in a bend of the river. This had all the appearance
of an ancient fortification, stretching across the
bend and furnished with redoubts and other features
of a great fort. In the journal is given a glowing
account of the work and an elaborate map of the same.
Modern research, however, has proved that this strange
arrangement of walls and parapets is only a series
of sand ridges formed by the currents of the river
and driftings of sand. Many of these so-called
earthworks are situated on the west bank of the Upper
Missouri, in North Dakota and South Dakota.
A few days later, the party saw a
species of animal which they described as “goats,” - very
fleet, with short pronged horns inclining backward,
and with grayish hair, marked with white on the rump.
This creature, however, was the American antelope,
then unknown to science, and first described by Lewis
and Clark. While visiting a strange dome-shaped
mountain, “resembling a cupola,” and now
known as “the Tower,” the explorers found
the abode of another animal, heretofore unknown to
them. “About four acres of ground,”
says the journal, “was covered with small holes.”
The account continues: “These are the residence
of a little animal, called by the French petit chien
(little dog), which sit erect near the mouth, and
make a whistling noise, but, when alarmed, take refuge
in their holes. In order to bring them out we
poured into one of the holes five barrels of water
without filling it, but we dislodged and caught the
owner. After digging down another of the holes
for six feet, we found, on running a pole into it,
that we had not yet dug half-way to the bottom:
we discovered, however, two frogs in the hole, and
near it we killed a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed
a small prairie dog. We were also informed, though
we never witnessed the fact, that a sort of lizard
and a snake live habitually with these animals.
The petit chien are justly named, as they resemble
a small dog in some particulars, although they have
also some points of similarity to the squirrel.
The head resembles the squirrel in every respect, except
that the ear is shorter; the tail like that of the
ground squirrel; the toe nails are long, the fur is
fine, and the long hair is gray.”
Great confusion has been caused in
the minds of readers on account of there being another
burrowing animal, called by Lewis and Clark “the
burrowing squirrel,” which resembles the petit
chien in some respects. But the little animal
described here is now well known as the prairie-dog, - an
unfortunate and misleading name. It is in no sense
a species of dog. The creature commonly weighs
about three pounds, and its note resembles that of
a toy-dog. It is a species of marmot; it subsists
on grass roots and other vegetable products; its flesh
is delicate and, when fat, of good flavor. The
writer of these lines, when crossing the great plains,
in early times, found the “prairie-dogs”
excellent eating, but difficult to kill; they are
expert at diving into their holes at the slightest
signal of danger.
The following days they saw large
herds of buffalo, and the copses of timber appeared
to contain elk and deer, “just below Cedar Island,”
adds the journal, “on a hill to the south, is
the backbone of a fish, forty-five feet long, tapering
towards the tail, and in a perfect state of petrifaction,
fragments of which were collected and sent to Washington.”
This was not a fish, but the fossil remains of a reptile
of one of the earliest geological periods. Here,
too, the party saw immense herds of buffalo, thousands
in number, some of which they killed for their meat
and skins. They also saw elk, deer, turkeys, grouse,
beaver, and prairie-dogs. The journal bitterly
complains of the “moschetoes,” which were
very troublesome. As mosquitoes we now know them.
Oddly enough, the journal sometimes speaks of goats and
sometimes of antelopes, and the same animal is described in both instances.
Here is a good story of the fleetness of the beautiful creature: -
“Of all the animals we had seen,
the antelope seems to possess the most wonderful fleetness.
Shy and timorous, they generally repose only on the
ridges, which command a view of all the approaches
of an enemy: the acuteness of their sight distinguishes
the most distant danger; the delicate sensibility
of their smell defeats the precautions of concealment;
and, when alarmed, their rapid career seems more like
the flight of birds than the movements of a quadruped.
After many unsuccessful attempts, Captain Lewis at
last, by winding around the ridges, approached a party
of seven, which were on an eminence towards which
the wind was unfortunately blowing. The only male
of the party frequently encircled the summit of the
hill, as if to announce any danger to the females,
which formed a group at the top. Although they
did not see Captain Lewis, the smell alarmed them,
and they fled when he was at the distance of two hundred
yards: he immediately ran to the spot where they
had been; a ravine concealed them from him; but the
next moment they appeared on a second ridge, at the
distance of three miles. He doubted whether they
could be the same; but their number, and the extreme
rapidity with which they continued their course, convinced
him that they must have gone with a speed equal to
that of the most distinguished race-horse. Among
our acquisitions to-day were a mule-deer, a magpie,
a common deer, and buffalo: Captain Lewis also
saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows
of the barking squirrels.”
By “barking squirrels”
the reader must understand that the animal better
known as the prairie-dog is meant; and the mule-deer,
as the explorers called it, was not a hybrid, but
a deer with very long ears, better known afterwards
as the black-tailed deer.
At the Big Bend of the Missouri, in
the heart of what is now South Dakota, while camped
on a sand-bar, the explorers had a startling experience.
“Shortly after midnight,” says the journal,
“the sleepers were startled by the sergeant
on guard crying out that the sand-bar was sinking,
and the alarm was timely given; for scarcely had they
got off with the boats before the bank under which
they had been lying fell in; and by the time the opposite
shore was reached, the ground on which they had been
encamped sunk also. A man who was sent to step
off the distance across the head of the bend, made
it but two thousand yards, while its circuit is thirty
miles.”
The next day, three Sioux boys swam
the river and told them that two parties of their
nation, one of eighty lodges, and one of sixty lodges,
were camped up the river, waiting to have a palaver
with the white explorers. These were Teton Sioux,
and the river named for them still bears that title.