One is unthankful, I suppose, to call a day so dreary when one has lunched under the circumstances that I have attempted to indicate; the bright spot ought to shine over the whole.  But you haven’t an idea what a nightmare in the daytime Cowpens was beginning to be.

I had thumbed and scanned hundreds of ancient pages, some of them manuscript; I had sat by ancient shelves upon hard chairs, I had sneezed with the ancient dust, and I had not put my finger upon a trace of the right Fanning.  I should have given it up, left unexplored the territory that remained staring at me through the backs of unread volumes, had it not been for my Aunt Carola.  To her I owed constancy and diligence, and so I kept at it; and the hermit hours I spent at Court and Chancel streets grew worse as I knew better what rarely good company was ready to receive me.  This Kings Port, this little city of oblivion, held, shut in with its lavender and pressed-rose memories, a handful of people who were like that great society of the world, the high society of distinguished men and women who exist no more, but who touched history with a light hand, and left their mark upon it in a host of memoirs and letters that we read to-day with a starved and home-sick longing in the midst of our sullen welter of democracy.  With its silent houses and gardens, its silent streets, its silent vistas of the blue water in the sunshine, this beautiful, sad place was winning my heart and making it ache.  Nowhere else in America such charm, such character, such true elegance as here-and nowhere else such an overwhelming sense of finality!-the doom of a civilization founded upon a crime.  And yet, how much has the ballot done for that race?  Or, at least, how much has the ballot done for the majority of that race?  And what way was it to meet this problem with the sudden sweeping folly of the Fifteenth Amendment?  To fling the “door of hope” wide open before those within had learned the first steps of how to walk sagely through it!  Ah, if it comes to blame, who goes scatheless in this heritage of error?  I could have shaped (we all could, you know) a better scheme for the universe, a plan where we should not flourish at each other’s expense, where the lion should be lying down with the lamb now, where good and evil should not be husband and wife, indissolubly married by a law of creation.

With such highly novel thoughts as these I descended the steps from my researches at the corner of Court and Chancel streets an hour earlier than my custom, because-well, I couldn’t, that day, stand Cowpens for another minute.  Up at the corner of Court and Worship the people were going decently into church; it was a sweet, gentle late Friday in Lent.  I had intended keeping out-of-doors, to smell the roses in the gardens, to bask in the soft remnant of sunshine, to loiter and peep in through the Kings Port garden gates, up the silent walks to the silent verandas.  But the slow stream of people took me, instead, into church with the deeply veiled ladies of Kings Port, hushed in their perpetual mourning for not only, I think, those husbands and brothers and sons whom the war had turned to dust forty years ago, but also for the Cause, the lost Cause, that died with them.  I sat there among these Christians suckled in a creed outworn, envying them their well-regulated faith; it, too, was part of the town’s repose and sweetness, together with the old-fashioned roses and the old-fashioned ladies.  Men, also, were in the congregation-not many, to be sure, but all unanimously wearing that expression of remarkable virtue which seems always to visit, when he goes to church, the average good fellow who is no better than he should be.  I became, myself, filled with this same decorous inconsistency, and was singing the hymn, when I caught sight of John Mayrant.  What lady was he with?  It was just this that most annoyingly I couldn’t make out, because the unlucky disposition of things hid it.  I caught myself craning my neck and singing the hymn simultaneously and with no difficulty, because all my childhood was in that hymn; I couldn’t tell when I hadn’t known words and music by heart.  Who was she?  I tried for a clear view when we sat down, and also, let me confess, when we knelt down; I saw even less of her so; and my hope at the end of the service was dashed by her slow but entire disappearance amid the engulfing exits of the other ladies.  I followed where I imagined she had gone, out by a side door, into the beautiful graveyard; but among the flowers and monuments she was not, nor was he; and next I saw, through the iron gate, John Mayrant in the street, walking with his intimate aunt and her more severe sister, and Miss La Heu.  I somewhat superfluously hastened to the gate and greeted them, to which they responded with polite, masterly discouragement.  He, however, after taking off his hat to them, turned back, and I watched them pursuing their leisurely, reticent course toward the South Place.  Why should the old ladies strike me as looking like a tremendously proper pair of conspirators?  I was wondering this as I turned back among the tombs, when I perceived John Mayrant coming along one of the churchyard paths.  His approach was made at right angles with that of another personage, the respectful negro custodian of the place.  This dignitary was evidently hoping to lead me among the monuments, recite to me their old histories, and benefit by my consequent gratitude; he had even got so far as smiling and removing his hat when John Mayrant stopped him.  The young man hailed the negro by his first name with that particular and affectionate superiority which few Northerners can understand and none can acquire, and which resembles nothing so much as the way in which you speak to your old dog who has loved you and followed you, because you have cared for him.

“Not this time,” John Mayrant said.  “I wish to show our relics to this gentleman myself-if he will permit me?” This last was a question put to me with a courteous formality, a formality which a few minutes more were to see smashed to smithereens.

I told him that I should consider myself undeservedly privileged.

“Some of these people are my people,” he said, beginning to move.

The old custodian stood smiling, familiar, respectful, disappointed.  “Some of ’em my people, too, Mas’ John,” he cannily observed.

I put a little silver in his hand.  “Didn’t I see a box somewhere,” I said, “with something on it about the restoration of the church?”

“Something on it, but nothing in it!” exclaimed Mayrant; at which moderate pleasantry the custodian broke into extreme African merriment and ambled away.  “You needn’t have done it,” protested the Southerner, and I naturally claimed my stranger’s right to pay my respects in this manner.  Such was our introduction, agreeable and unusual.

A silence then unexpectedly ensued and the formality fell colder than ever upon us.  The custodian’s departure had left us alone, looking at each other across all the unexpressed knowledge that each knew the other had.  Mayrant had come impulsively back to me from his aunts, without stopping to think that we had never yet exchanged a word; both of us were now brought up short, and it was the cake that was speaking volubly in our self-conscious dumbness.  It was only after this brief, deep gap of things unsaid that John Mayrant came to the surface again, and began a conversation of which, on both our parts, the first few steps were taken on the tiptoes of an archaic politeness; we trod convention like a polished French floor; you might have expected us, after such deliberate and graceful preliminaries, to dance a verbal minuet.

We, however, danced something quite different, and that conversation lasted during many days, and led us, like a road, up hill and down dale to a perfect acquaintance.  No, not perfect, but delightful; to the end he never spoke to me of the matter most near him, and I but honor him the more for his reticence.

Of course his first remark had to be about Kings Port and me; had he understood rightly that this was my first visit?

My answer was equally traditional.

It was, next, correct that he should allude to the weather; and his reference was one of the two or three that it seems a stranger’s destiny always to hear in a place new to him - he apologized for the weather-so cold a season had not, in his memory, been experienced in Kings Port; it was to the highest point exceptional.

I exclaimed that it had been, to my Northern notions, delightfully mild for March.  “Indeed,” I continued, “I have always said that if March could be cut out of our Northern climate, as the core is cut out of an apple, I should be quite satisfied with eleven months, instead of twelve.  I think it might prolong one’s youth.”

The fire of that season lighted in his eyes, but he still stepped upon polished convention.  He assured me that the Southern September hurricane was more deplorable than any Northern March could be.  “Our zone should be called the Intemperate zone,” said he.

“But never in Kings Port,” I protested; “with your roses out-of-doors-and your ladies indoors!”

He bowed.  “You pay us a high compliment.”

I smiled urbanely.  “If the truth is a compliment!”

“Our young ladies are roses,” he now admitted with a delicate touch of pride.

“Don’t forget your old ones!  I never shall.”

There was pleasure in his face at this tribute, which, he could see, came from the heart.  But, thus pictured to him, the old ladies brought a further idea quite plainly into his expression; and he announced it.  “Some of them are not without thorns.”

“What would you give,” I quickly replied, “for anybody-man or woman-who could not, on an occasion, make themselves sharply felt?”

To this he returned a full but somewhat absent-minded assent.  He seemed to be reflecting that he himself didn’t care to be the “occasion” upon which an old lady rose should try her thorns; and I was inclined to suspect that his intimate aunt had been giving him a wigging.

Anyhow, I stood ready to keep it up, this interchange of lofty civilities.  I, too, could wear the courtly red-heels of eighteenth-century procedure, and for just as long as his Southern up-bringing inclined him to wear them; I hadn’t known Aunt Carola for nothing!  But we, as I have said, were not destined to dance any minuet.

We had been moving, very gradually, and without any attention to our surroundings, to and fro in the beautiful sweet churchyard.  Flowers were everywhere, growing, budding, blooming; color and perfume were parts of the very air, and beneath these pretty and ancient tombs, graven with old dates and honorable names, slept the men and women who had given Kings Port her high place is; in our history.  I have never, in this country, seen any churchyard comparable to this one; happy, serene dead, to sleep amid such blossoms and consecration!  Good taste prevailed here; distinguished men lay beneath memorial stones that came no higher than your waist or shoulder; there was a total absence of obscure grocers reposing under gigantic obelisks; to earn a monument here you must win a battle, or do, at any rate, something more than adulterate sugar and oil.  The particular monument by which young John Mayrant and I found ourselves standing, when we reached the point about the ladies and the thorns, had a look of importance and it caught his eye, bringing him back to where we were.  Upon his pointing to it, and before we had spoken or I had seen the name, I inquired eagerly - “Not the lieutenant of the Bon Homme Richard?” and then saw that Mayrant was not the name upon it.

My knowledge of his gallant sea-fighting namesake visibly gratified him.  “I wish it were,” he said; “but I am descended from this man, too.  He was a statesman, and some of his brilliant powers were inherited by his children-but they have not come so far down as me.  In 1840, his daughter, Miss Beaufain-

I laid my hand right on his shoulder.  “Don’t you do it, John Mayrant!” I cried.  “Don’t you tell me that.  Last night I caught myself saying that instead of my prayers.”

Well, it killed the minuet dead; he sat flat down on the low stone coping that bordered the path to which we had wandered back-and I sat flat down opposite him.  The venerable custodian, passing along a neighboring path, turned his head and stared at our noise.

“Lawd, see those chillun goin’ on!” he muttered.  “Mas’ John, don’t you get too scandalous, tellin’ strangers ’bout the old famblies.”

Mayrant pointed to me.  “He’s responsible, Daddy Ben.  I’m being just as good as gold.  Honest injun!”

The custodian marched slowly on his way, shaking his head.  “Mas’ John he do go on,” he repeated.  His office was not alone the care and the showing off of the graveyard, but another duty, too, as native and peculiar to the soil as the very cotton and the rice - this loyal servitor cherished the honor of the “old famblies,” and chide their young descendants whenever he considered that they needed it.

Mayrant now sat revived after his collapse of mirth, and he addressed me from his gravestone.  “Yes, I ought to have foreseen it.”

“Foreseen ?” I didn’t at once catch the inference.

“All my aunts and cousins have been talking to you.”

“Oh, Miss Beaufain and the Earl of Mainridge!  Well, but it’s quite worth-

“Knowing by heart!” he broke in with new merriment.

I kept on.  “Why not?  They tell those things everywhere-where they’re so lucky as to possess them!  It’s a flawless specimen.”

“Of 1840 repartee?” He spoke with increasing pauses.  “Yes.  We do at least possess that.  And some wine of about the same date-and even considerably older.”

“All the better for age,” I exclaimed.

But the blue eyes of Mayrant were far away and full of shadow.  “Poor Kings Port,” he said very slowly and quietly.  Then he looked at me with the steady look and the smile that one sometimes has when giving voice to a sorrowful conviction against which one has tried to struggle.  “Poor Kings Port,” he affectionately repeated.  His hand tapped lightly two or three times upon the gravestone upon which he was seated.  “Be honest and say that you think so, too,” he demanded, always with his smile.

But how was I to agree aloud with what his silent hand had expressed?  Those inaudible taps on the stone spoke clearly enough; they said:  “Here lies Kings Port, here lives Kings Port.  Outside of this is our true death, on the vacant wharves, in the empty streets.  All that we have left is the immortality which these historic names have won.”  How could I tell him that I thought so, too?  Nor was I as sure of it then as he was.  And besides, this was a young man whose spirit was almost surely, in suffering; ill fortune both material and of the heart, I seemed to suspect, had made him wounded and bitter in these immediate days; and the very suppression he was exercising hurt him the more deeply.  So I replied, honestly, as he had asked - “I hope you are mistaken.”

“That’s because you haven’t been here long enough,” he declared.

Over us, gently, from somewhere across the gardens and the walls, came a noiseless water breeze, to which the roses moved and nodded among the tombs.  They gave him a fanciful thought.  “Look at them!  They belong to us, and they know it.  They’re saying, ‘Yes; yes; yes,’ all day long.  I don’t know why on earth I’m talking in this way to you!” he broke off with vivacity.  “But you made me laugh so.”