At Santa Ysabel del Mar
the season was at one of those moments when the air
rests quiet over land and sea. The old breezes
were gone; the new ones were not yet risen. The
flowers in the mission garden opened wide; no wind
came by day or night to shake the loose petals from
their stems. Along the basking, silent, many-colored
shore gathered and lingered the crisp odors of the
mountains. The dust hung golden and motionless
long after the rider was behind the hill, and the
Pacific lay like a floor of sapphire, whereon to walk
beyond the setting sun into the East. One white
sail shone there. Instead of an hour, it had been
from dawn till afternoon in sight between the short
headlands; and the Padre had hoped that it might be
the ship his homesick heart awaited. But it had
slowly passed. From an arch in his garden cloisters
he was now watching the last of it. Presently
it was gone, and the great ocean lay empty. The
Padre put his glasses in his lap. For a short
while he read in his breviary, but soon forgot it
again. He looked at the flowers and sunny ridges,
then at the huge blue triangle of sea which the opening
of the hills let into sight. “Paradise,”
he murmured, “need not hold more beauty and
peace. But I think I would exchange all my remaining
years of this for one sight again of Paris or Seville.
May God forgive me such a thought!”
Across the unstirred fragrance of
oleanders the bell for vespers began to ring.
Its tones passed over the Padre as he watched the sea
in his garden. They reached his parishioners
in their adobe dwellings near by. The gentle
circles of sound floated outward upon the smooth, immense
silence over the vines and pear-trees; down
the avenues of the olives; into the planted fields,
whence women and children began to return; then out
of the lap of the valley along the yellow uplands,
where the men that rode among the cattle paused, looking
down like birds at the map of their home. Then
the sound widened, faint, unbroken, until it met Temptation
in the guise of a youth, riding toward the Padre from
the South, and cheered the steps of Temptation’s
jaded horse.
“For a day, one single day of
Paris!” repeated the Padre, gazing through his
cloisters at the empty sea.
Once in the year the mother-world
remembered him. Once in the year, from Spain,
tokens and home-tidings came to him, sent by certain
beloved friends of his youth. A barkentine brought
him these messages. Whenever thus the mother-world
remembered him, it was like the touch of a warm hand,
a dear and tender caress; a distant life, by him long
left behind, seemed to be drawing the exile homeward
from these alien shores. As the time for his
letters and packets drew near, the eyes of Padre Ignacio
would be often fixed wistfully upon the harbor, watching
for the barkentine. Sometimes, as to-day, he
mistook other sails for hers, but hers he mistook
never. That Pacific Ocean, which, for all its
hues and jeweled mists, he could not learn to love,
had, since long before his day, been furrowed by the
keels of Spain. Traders, and adventurers, and
men of God had passed along this coast, planting their
colonies and cloisters; but it was not his ocean.
In the year that we, a thin strip of patriots away
over on the Atlantic edge of the continent, declared
ourselves an independent nation, a Spanish ship, in
the name of Saint Francis, was unloading the centuries
of her own civilization at the Golden Gate. San
Diego had come earlier. Then, slowly, as mission
after mission was built along the soft coast wilderness,
new ports were established at Santa Barbara,
and by Point San Luis for San Luis Obispo,
which lay inland a little way up the gorge where it
opened among the hills. Thus the world reached
these missions by water; while on land, through the
mountains, a road led to them, and also to many more
that were too distant behind the hills for ships to
serve a rough road, long and lonely, punctuated
with church towers and gardens. For the Fathers
gradually so stationed their settlements that the traveler
might each morning ride out from one mission and by
evening of a day’s fair journey ride into the
next. A lonely, rough, dangerous road, but lovely,
too, with a name like music El Camino Real.
Like music also were the names of the missions San
Juan Capistrano, San Luis Rey de Francia, San Miguel,
Santa Ynes their very list is a song.
So there, by-and-by, was our continent,
with the locomotive whistling from Savannah to Boston
along its eastern edge, and on the western the scattered
chimes of Spain ringing among the unpeopled mountains.
Thus grew the two sorts of civilization not
equally. We know what has happened since.
To-day the locomotive is whistling also from The Golden
Gate to San Diego; but still the old mission-road goes
through the mountains, and along it the footsteps
of vanished Spain are marked with roses, and broken
cloisters, and the crucifix.
But this was 1855. Only the barkentine
brought to Padre Ignacio the signs from the world
that he once had known and loved so dearly. As
for the new world making a rude noise to the northward,
he trusted that it might keep away from Santa Ysabel,
and he waited for the vessel that was overdue with
its package containing his single worldly luxury.
As the little, ancient bronze bell
continued swinging in the tower, its plaintive call
reached something in the Padre’s memory.
Softly, absently, he began to sing. He took up
the slow strain not quite correctly, and dropped it,
and took it up again, always in cadence with the bell.
[musical score appears here]
At length he heard himself, and, glancing
at the belfry, smiled a little. “It is
a pretty tune,” he said, “and it always
made me sorry for poor Fra Diavolo.
Auber himself confessed to me that he had made it sad
and put the hermitage bell to go with it, because he
too was grieved at having to kill his villain, and
wanted him, if possible, to die in a religious frame
of mind. And Auber touched glasses with me and
said how well I remember it! ’Is
it the good Lord, or is it merely the devil, that
makes me always have a weakness for rascals?’
I told him it was the devil. I was not a priest
then. I could not be so sure with my answer now.”
And then Padre Ignacio repeated Auber’s remark
in French: “’Est-ce lé
bon Dieu, oui est-ce bien
lé diable, qui veut tonjours que
j’aime les coquins?’ I don’t know!
I don’t know! I wonder if Auber has composed
anything lately? I wonder who is singing ‘Zerlina’
now?”
He cast a farewell look at the ocean,
and took his steps between the monastic herbs, the
jasmines and the oleanders to the sacristy. “At
least,” he said, “if we cannot carry with
us into exile the friends and the places we have loved,
music will go whither we go, even to an end of the
world such as this. Felipe!” he called
to his organist. “Can they sing the music
I taught them for the Dixit Dominus to-night?”
“Yes, father, surely.”
“Then we will have that.
And, Felipe ” The Padre crossed the
chancel to the small, shabby organ. “Rise,
my child, and listen. Here is something you can
learn. Why, see now if you cannot learn it from
a single hearing.”
The swarthy boy of sixteen stood watching
his master’s fingers, delicate and white, as
they played. Thus, of his own accord, he had begun
to watch them when a child of six; and the Padre had
taken the wild, half-scared, spellbound creature and
made a musician of him.
“There, Felipe!” he said
now. “Can you do it? Slower, and more
softly, muchacho mio. It is about the
death of a man, and it should go with our bell.”
The boy listened. “Then
the father has played it a tone too low,” said
he, “for our bell rings the note of sol,
or something very near it, as the father must surely
know.” He placed the melody in the right
key an easy thing for him; and the Padre
was delighted.
“Ah, my Felipe,” he exclaimed,
“what could you and I not do if we had a better
organ! Only a little better! See! above this
row of keys would be a second row, and many more stops.
Then we would make such music as has never yet been
heard in California. But my people are so poor
and so few! And some day I shall have passed
from them, and it will be too late.”
“Perhaps,” ventured Felipe, “the
Americanos ”
“They care nothing for us, Felipe.
They are not of our religion or of any
religion, from what I can hear. Don’t forget
my Dixit Dominus.”
The Padre retired once more to the
sacristy, while the horse that brought Temptation
came over the hill.
The hour of service drew near; and
as the Padre waited he once again stepped out for
a look at the ocean; but the blue triangle of water
lay like a picture in its frame of land, bare as the
sky. “I think, from the color, though,”
said he, “that a little more wind must have begun
out there.”
The bell rang a last short summons
to prayer. Along the road from the south a young
rider, leading a pack-animal, ambled into the mission
and dismounted. Church was not so much in his
thoughts as food and, after due digestion, a bed;
but the doors stood open, and, as everybody was passing
within them, more variety was to be gained by joining
this company than by waiting outside alone until they
should return from their devotions. So he seated
himself in a corner near the entrance, and after a
brief, jaunty glance at the sunburned, shaggy congregation,
made himself as comfortable as might be. He had
not seen a face worth keeping his eyes open for.
The simple choir and simple fold, gathered for even-song,
paid him no attention a rough American bound
for the mines was but an object of aversion to them.
The Padre, of course, had been instantly
aware of the stranger’s presence. To be
aware of unaccustomed presences is the sixth sense
with vicars of every creed and heresy; and if the
parish is lonely and the worshipers few and seldom
varying, a newcomer will gleam out like a new book
to be read. And a trained priest learns to read
keenly the faces of those who assemble to worship
under his guidance. But American vagrants, with
no thoughts save of gold-digging, and an overweening
illiterate jargon for speech, had long ceased to interest
this priest, even in his starvation for company and
talk from the outside world; and therefore after the
intoning he sat with his homesick thoughts unchanged,
to draw both pain and enjoyment from the music that
he had set to the Dixit Dominus. He listened
to the tender chorus that opens William Tell; and,
as the Latin psalm proceeded, pictures of the past
rose between him and the altar. One after another
came these strains he had taken from operas famous
in their day, until at length the Padre was murmuring
to some music seldom long out of his heart not
the Latin verse which the choir sang, but the original
French words:
“Ah, voile man
envie,
Voila mon seul désir:
Rendez moi ma patrie,
Ou laissez moi mourir.”
Which may be rendered:
But one wish I implore,
One wish is all my cry:
Give back my native land once more,
Give back, or let me die.
Then it happened that his eye fell
again upon the stranger near the door, and he straightway
forgot his Dixit Dominus. The face of the
young man was no longer hidden by the slouching position
he had at first taken. “I only noticed
his clothes at first,” thought the Padre.
Restlessness was plain upon the handsome brow, and
violence was in the mouth; but Padre Ignacio liked
the eyes. “He is not saying any prayers,”
he surmised, presently. “I doubt if he has
said any for a long while. And he knows my music.
He is of educated people. He cannot be American.
And now yes, he has taken I think
it must be a flower, from his pocket. I shall
have him to dine with me.” And vespers ended
with rosy clouds of eagerness drifting across the
Padre’s brain.