“You see,” said Captain
Morhange to me fifteen days later, “you are
much better informed about the ancient routes through
the Sahara than you have been willing to let me suppose,
since you know of the existence of the two Tadekkas.
But the one of which you have just spoken is the Tadekka
of Ibn-Batoutah, located by this historian seventy
days from Touat, and placed by Schirmer, very plausibly,
in the unexplored territory of the Aouelimmiden.
This is the Tadekka by which the Sonrhai caravans
passed every year, travelling by Egypt.
“My Tadekka is different, the
capital of the veiled people, placed by Ibn-Khaldoun
twenty days south of Wargla, which he calls Tadmekka.
It is towards this Tadmekka that I am headed.
I must establish Tadmekka in the ruins of Es-Souk.
The commercial trade route, which in the ninth century
bound the Tunisian Djerid to the bend the Niger makes
at Bourroum, passed by Es-Souk. It
is to study the possibility of reestablishing this
ancient thoroughfare that the Ministries gave me this
mission, which has given me the pleasure of your companionship.”
“You are probably in for a disappointment,”
I said. “Everything indicates that the
commerce there is very slight.”
“Well, I shall see,” he answered composedly.
This was while we were following the
unicolored banks of a salt lake. The great saline
stretch shone pale-blue, under the rising sun.
The legs of our five méhara cast on it their
moving shadows of a darker blue. For a moment
the only inhabitant of these solitudes, a bird, a
kind of indeterminate heron, rose and hung in the air,
as if suspended from a thread, only to sink back to
rest as soon as we had passed.
I led the way, selecting the route,
Morhange followed. Enveloped in a bernous, his
head covered with the straight chéchia of the
Spahis, a great chaplet of alternate red and
white beads, ending in a cross, around his neck, he
realized perfectly the ideal of Father Lavigerie’s
White Fathers.
After a two-days’ halt at Temassinin
we had just left the road followed by Flatters, and
taken an oblique course to the south. I have
the honor of having antedated Fourcau in demonstrating
the importance of Temassinin as a geometrical point
for the passage of caravans, and of selecting the
place where Captain Pein has just now constructed a
fort. The junction for the roads that lead to
Touat from Fezzan and Tibesti, Temassinin is the future
seat of a marvellous Intelligence Department.
What I had collected there in two days about the disposition
of our Senoussis enemies was of importance. I
noticed that Morhange let me proceed with my inquiries
with complete indifference.
These two days he had passed in conversation
with the old Negro guardian of the turbet, which preserves,
under its plaster dome, the remains of the venerated
Sidi-Moussa. The confidences they exchanged,
I am sorry to say that I have forgotten. But from
the Negro’s amazed admiration, I realized the
ignorance in which I stood to the mysteries of the
desert, and how familiar they were to my companion.
And if you want to get any idea of
the extraordinary originality which Morhange introduced
into such surroundings, you who, after all, have a
certain familiarity with the tropics, listen to this.
It was exactly two hundred kilometers from here, in
the vicinity of the Great Dune, in that horrible stretch
of six days without water. We had just enough
for two days before reaching the next well, and you
know these wells; as Flatters wrote to his wife, “you
have to work for hours before you can clean them out
and succeed in watering beasts and men.”
By chance we met a caravan there, which was going
east towards Rhadames, and had come too far north.
The camels’ humps, shrunken and shaking, bespoke
the sufferings of the troop. Behind came a little
gray ass, a pitiful burrow, interfering at every step,
and lightened of its pack because the merchants knew
that it was going to die. Instinctively, with
its last strength, it followed, knowing that when
it could stagger no longer, the end would come and
the flutter of the bald vultures’ wings.
I love animals, which I have solid reasons for preferring
to men. But never should I have thought of doing
what Morhange did then. I tell you that our water
skins were almost dry, and that our own camels, without
which one is lost in the empty desert, had not been
watered for many hours. Morhange made his kneel,
uncocked a skin, and made the little ass drink.
I certainly felt gratification at seeing the poor
bare flanks of the miserable beast pant with satisfaction.
But the responsibility was mine. Also I had seen
Bou-Djema’s aghast expression, and the disapproval
of the thirsty members of the caravan. I remarked
on it. How it was received! “What have
I given,” replied Morhange, “was my own.
We will reach El-Biodh to-morrow evening, about six
o’clock. Between here and there I know that
I shall not be thirsty.” And that in a
tone, in which for the first time he allowed the authority
of a Captain to speak. “That is easy to
say,” I thought, ill-humoredly. “He
knows that when he wants them, my water-skin, and
Bou-Djema’s, are at his service.”
But I did not yet know Morhange very well, and it
is true that until the evening of the next day when
we reached El-Biodh, refusing our offers with smiling
determination, he drank nothing.
Shades of St. Francis of Assisi!
Umbrian hills, so pure under the rising sun!
It was in the light of a like sunrise, by the border
of a pale stream leaping in full cascades from a crescent-shaped
niche of the gray rocks of Egere, that Morhange
stopped. The unlooked for waters rolled upon
the sand, and we saw, in the light which mirrored
them, little black fish. Fish in the middle of
the Sahara! All three of us were mute before
this paradox of Nature. One of them had strayed
into a little channel of sand. He had to stay
there, struggling in vain, his little white belly
exposed to the air.... Morhange picked him up,
looked at him for a moment, and put him back into the
little stream. Shades of St. Francis. Umbrian
hills.... But I have sworn not to break the thread
of the story by these untimely digressions.
“You see,” Captain Morhange
said to me a week later, “that I was right in
advising you to go farther south before making for
Shikh-Salah. Something told me that this highland
of Egere was not interesting from your point
of view. While here you have only to stoop to
pick up pebbles which will allow you to establish
the volcanic origin of this region much more certainly
than Bou-Derba, des Cloizeaux, and Doctor Marres
have done.”
This was while we were following the
western pass of the Tidifest Mountains, about the
25th degree of northern latitude.
“I should indeed be ungrateful
not to thank you,” I said.
I shall always remember that instant.
We had left our camels and were collecting fragments
of the most characteristic rocks. Morhange employed
himself with a discernment which spoke worlds for his
knowledge of geology, a science he had often professed
complete ignorance of.
Then I asked him the following question:
“May I prove my gratitude by making you a confession?”
He raised his head and looked at me.
“Well then, I don’t see
the practical value of this trip you have undertaken.”
He smiled.
“Why not? To explore the
old caravan route, to demonstrate that a connection
has existed from the most ancient times between the
Mediterranean world, and the country of the Blacks,
that seems nothing in your eyes? The hope of
settling once for all the secular disputes which have
divided so many keen minds; d’Anville, Heeren,
Berlioux, Quatremere on the one hand, on
the other Gosselin, Walckenaer, Tissit, Vivien, de
saint-Martin; you think that that is devoid of interest?
A plague upon you for being hard to please.”
“I spoke of practical value,”
I said. “You won’t deny that this
controversy is only the affair of cabinet geographers
and office explorers.”
Morhange kept on smiling.
“Dear friend, don’t wither
me. Deign to recall that your mission was confided
to you by the Ministry of War, while I hold mine on
behalf of the Ministry of Public Instruction.
A different origin justifies our different aims.
It certainly explains, I readily concede that to you,
why what I am in search of has no practical value.”
“You are also authorized by
the Ministry of Commerce,” I replied, playing
my next card. “By this chief you are instructed
to study the possibility of restoring the old trade
route of the ninth century. But on this point
don’t attempt to mislead me; with your knowledge
of the history and geography of the Sahara, your mind
must have been made up before you left Paris.
The road from Djerid to the Niger is dead, stone dead.
You knew that no important traffic would pass by this
route before you undertook to study the possibility
of restoring it.”
Morhange looked me full in the face.
“And if that should be so,”
he said with the most charming attitude, “if
I had before leaving the conviction you say, what do
you conclude from that?”
“I should prefer to have you tell me.”
“Simply, my dear boy, that I
had less skill than you in finding the pretext for
my voyage, that I furnished less good reasons for the
true motives that brought me here.”
“A pretext? I don’t see....”
“Be sincere in your turn, if
you please. I am sure that you have the greatest
desire to inform the Arabian Office about the practices
of the Senoussis. But admit that the information
that you will obtain is not the sole and innermost
aim of your excursion. You are a geologist, my
friend. You have found a chance to gratify your
taste in this trip. No one would think of blaming
you because you have known how to reconcile what is
useful to your country and agreeable to yourself.
But, for the love of God, don’t deny it; I need
no other proof than your presence here on this side
of the Tidifest, a very curious place from a mineralogical
point of view, but some hundred and fifty kilometers
south of your official route.”
It was not possible to have countered
me with a better grace. I parried by attacking.
“Am I to conclude from all this
that I do not know the real aims of your trip, and
that they have nothing to do with the official motives?”
I had gone a bit too far. I felt
it from the seriousness with which Morhange’s
reply was delivered.
“No, my dear friend, you must
not conclude just that. I should have no taste
for a lie which was based on fraud towards the estimable
constitutional bodies which have judged me worthy of
their confidence and their support. The ends
that they have assigned to me I shall do my best to
attain. But I have no reason for hiding from you
that there is another, quite personal, which is far
nearer to my heart. Let us say, if you will,
to use a terminology that is otherwise deplorable,
that this is the end while the others are the means.”
“Would there be any indiscretion?....”
“None,” replied my companion.
“Shikh-Salah is only a few days distant.
He whose first steps you have guided with such solicitude
in the desert should have nothing hidden from you.”
We had halted in the valley of a little
dry well where a few sickly plants were growing.
A spring near by was circled by a crown of gray verdure.
The camels had been unsaddled for the night, and were
seeking vainly, at every stride, to nibble the spiny
tufts of had. The black and polished sides
of the Tidifest Mountains rose, almost vertically,
above our heads. Already the blue smoke of the
fire on which Bou-Djema was cooking dinner rose through
the motionless air.
Not a sound, not a breath. The
smoke mounted straight, straight and slowly up the
pale steps of the firmament.
“Have you ever heard of the
Atlas of Christianity?” asked Morhange.
“I think so. Isn’t
it a geographical work published by the Benedictines
under the direction of a certain Dom Granger?”
“Your memory is correct,”
said Morhange. “Even so let me explain a
little more fully some of the things you have not had
as much reason as I to interest yourself in.
The Atlas of Christianity proposes to establish
the boundaries of that great tide of Christianity through
all the ages, and for all parts of the globe.
An undertaking worthy of the Benedictine learning,
worthy of such a prodigy of erudition as Dom Granger
himself.”
“And it is these boundaries
that you have come to determine here, no doubt,”
I murmured.
“Just so,” replied my companion.
He was silent, and I respected his
silence, prepared by now to be astonished at nothing.
“It is not possible to give
confidences by halves, without being ridiculous,”
he continued after several minutes of meditation,
speaking gravely, in a voice which held no suggestion
of that flashing humor which had a month before enchanted
the young officers at Wargla. “I have begun
on mine. I will tell you everything. Trust
my discretion, however, and do not insist upon certain
events of my private life. If, four years ago,
at the close of these events, I resolve to enter a
monastery, it does not concern you to know my reasons.
I can marvel at it myself, that the passage in my life
of a being absolutely devoid of interest should have
sufficed to change the current of that life.
I can marvel that a creature whose sole merit was
her beauty should have been permitted by the Creator
to swing my destiny to such an unforeseen direction.
The monastery at whose doors I knocked had the most
valid reasons for doubting the stability of my vocation.
What the world loses in such fashion it often calls
back as readily. In short, I cannot blame the
Father Abbot for having forbidden me to apply for
my army discharge. By his instructions, I asked
for, and obtained, permission to be placed on the inactive
list for three years. At the end of those three
years of consecration it would be seen whether the
world was definitely dead to your servant.
“The first day of my arrival
at the cloister I was assigned to Dom Granger, and
placed by him at work on the Atlas of Christianity.
A brief examination decided him as to what kind of
service I was best fitted to render. This is
how I came to enter the studio devoted to the cartography
of Northern Africa. I did not know one word of
Arabic, but it happened that in garrison at Lyon I
had taken at the Faculté des Lettres, a course
with Berlioux, a very erudite geographer
no doubt, but obsessed by one idea, the influence
the Greek and Roman civilizations had exercised on
Africa. This detail of my life was enough for
Dom Granger. He provided me straightway with Berber
vocabularies by Venture, by Delaporte, by Brosselard;
with the Grammatical Sketch of the Temahaq
by Stanley Fleeman, and the Essai de Grammaire
de la langue Temachek by Major Hanoteau. At
the end of three months I was able to decipher any
inscriptions in Tifinar. You know that Tifinar
is the national writing of the Tuareg, the expression
of this Temachek language which seems to us the most
curious protest of the Targui race against
its Mohammedan enemies.
“Dom Granger, in fact, believed
that the Tuareg are Christians, dating from a period
which it was necessary to ascertain, but which coincided
no doubt with the splendor of the church of Hippon.
Even better than I, you know that the cross is with
them the symbol of fate in decoration. Duveyrier
has claimed that it figures in their alphabet, on
their arms, among the designs of their clothes.
The only tattooing that they wear on the forehead,
on the back of the hand, is a cross with four equal
branches; the pummels of their saddles, the handles
of their sabres, of their poignards, are cross-shaped.
And is it necessary to remind you that, although Islam
forbids bells as a sign of Christianity, the harness
of Tuareg camels are trimmed with bells?
“Neither Dom Granger nor I attach
an exaggerated importance to such proofs, which resemble
too much those which make such a display in the Genius
of Christianity. But it is indeed impossible to
refuse all credence to certain theological arguments.
Amanai, the God of the Tuareg, unquestionably the
Adonai of the Bible, is unique. They have a hell,
‘Timsi-tan-elekhaft,’ the last fire, where
reigns Iblis, our Lucifer. Their Paradise, where
they are rewarded for good deeds, is inhabited by
‘andjelousen,’ our angels. And do
not urge the resemblance of this theology to the Koran,
for I will meet you with historic arguments and remind
you that the Tuareg have struggled all through the
ages at the cost of partial extermination, to maintain
their faith against the encroachments of Mohammedan
fanaticism.
“Many times I have studied with
Dom Granger that formidable epoch when the aborigines
opposed the conquering Arabs. With him I have
seen how the army of Sidi-Okba, one of the companions
of the Prophet, invaded this desert to reduce the
Tuareg tribes and impose on them Mussulman rules.
These tribes were then rich and prosperous. They
were the Ihbggaren, the Imededren, the Ouadelen, the
Kel-Gueress, the Kel-Air. But internal quarrels
sapped their strength. Still, it was not until
after a long and cruel war that the Arabians succeeded
in getting possession of the capital of the Berbers,
which had proved such a redoubtable stronghold.
They destroyed it after they had massacred the inhabitants.
On the ruins Okba constructed a new city. This
city is Es-Souk. The one that Sidi-Okba
destroyed was the Berber Tadmekka. What Dom Granger
asked of me was precisely that I should try to exhume
from the ruins of the Mussulman Es-Souk the
ruins of Tadmekka, which was Berber, and perhaps Christian.”
“I understand,” I murmured.
“So far, so good,” said
Morhange. “But what you must grasp now is
the practical sense of these religious men, my masters.
You remember that, even after three years of monastic
life, they preserved their doubts as to the stability
of my vocation. They found at the same time means
of testing it once for all, and of adapting official
facilities to their particular purposes. One
morning I was called before the Father Abbot, and
this is what he said to me, in the presence of Dom
Granger, who expressed silent approval.
“’Your term of inactive
service expires in fifteen days. You will return
to Paris, and apply at the Ministry to be reinstated.
With what you have learned here, and the relationships
we have been able to maintain at Headquarters, you
will have no difficulty in being attached to the Geographical
Staff of the army. When you reach the rue de
Grenelle you will receive our instructions.’
“I was astonished at their confidence
in my knowledge. When I was reestablished as
Captain again in the Geographical Service I understood.
At the monastery, the daily association with Dom Granger
and his pupils had kept me constantly convinced of
the inferiority of my knowledge. When I came
in contact with my military brethren I realized the
superiority of the instruction I had received.
I did not have to concern myself with the details
of my mission. The Ministries invited me to undertake
it. My initiative asserted itself on only one
occasion. When I learned that you were going to
leave Wargla on the present expedition, having reason
to distrust my practical qualifications as an explorer,
I did my best to retard your departure, so that I
might join you. I hope that you have forgiven
me by now.”
The light in the west was fading,
where the sun had already sunk into a matchless luxury
of violet draperies. We were alone in this immensity,
at the feet of the rigid black rocks. Nothing
but ourselves. Nothing, nothing but ourselves.
I held out my hand to Morhange, and
he pressed it. Then he said:
“If they still seem infinitely
long to me, the several thousand kilometers which
separate me from the instant when, my task accomplished,
I shall at last find oblivion in the cloister for the
things for which I was not made, let me tell you this; the
several hundred kilometers which still separate us
from Shikh-Salah seem to me infinitely short to traverse
in your company.”
On the pale water of the little pool,
motionless and fixed like a silver nail, a star had
just been born.
“Shikh-Salah,” I murmured,
my heart full of an indefinable sadness. “Patience,
we are not there yet.”
In truth, we never were to be there.