“Pe far la
to vendetta,
Sta sigur’,
vasta anche ella.”
Vocero
du Niolo.
Early in the month of October, 181-,
Colonel Sir Thomas Nevil, a distinguished Irish officer
of the English army, alighted with his daughter at
the Hotel Beauveau, Marseilles, on their return from
a tour in Italy. The perpetual and universal
admiration of enthusiastic travellers has produced
a sort of reaction, and many tourists, in their desire
to appear singular, now take the nil admirari
of Horace for their motto. To this dissatisfied
class the colonel’s only daughter, Miss Lydia,
belonged. “The Transfiguration” has
seemed to her mediocre, and Vesuvius in eruption an
effect not greatly superior to that produced by the
Birmingham factory chimneys. Her great objection
to Italy, on the whole, was its lack of local colour
and character. My readers must discover the sense
of these expressions as best they may. A few years
ago I understood them very well myself, but at the
present time I can make nothing of them. At first,
Miss Lydia had flattered herself she had found things
on the other side of the Alps which nobody had ever
before seen, about which she could converse avec
les honnêtes gens, as M. Jourdain calls them.
But soon, anticipated in every direction by her countrymen,
she despaired of making any fresh discoveries, and
went over to the party of the opposition. It
is really very tiresome not to be able to talk abut
the wonders of Italy without hearing somebody say “Of
course you know the Raphael in the Palazzo
at ? It is the finest thing in
Italy!” and just the thing you happen
to have overlooked! As it would take too long
to see everything, the simplest course is to resort
to deliberate and universal censure.
At the Hotel Beauveau Miss Lydia met
with a bitter disappointment. She had brought
back a pretty sketch of the Pelasgic or Cyclopean Gate
at Segni, which, as she believed, all other artists
had completely overlooked. Now, at Marseilles,
she met Lady Frances Fenwick, who showed her her album,
in which appeared, between a sonnet and a dried flower,
the very gate in question, brilliantly touched in with
sienna. Miss Lydia gave her drawing to her maid and
lost all admiration for Pelasgic structures.
This unhappy frame of mind was shared
by Colonel Nevil, who, since the death of his wife,
looked at everything through his daughter’s eyes.
In his estimation, Italy had committed the unpardonable
sin of boring his child, and was, in consequence,
the most wearisome country on the face of the earth.
He had no fault to find, indeed, with the pictures
and statues, but he was in a position to assert that
Italian sport was utterly wretched, and that he had
been obliged to tramp ten leagues over the Roman Campagna,
under a burning sun, to kill a few worthless red-legged
partridges.
The morning after his arrival at Marseilles
he invited Captain Ellis his former adjutant,
who had just been spending six weeks in Corsica to
dine with him. The captain told Miss Lydia a story
about bandits, which had the advantage of bearing
no resemblance to the robber tales with which she
had been so frequently regaled, on the road between
Naples and Rome, and he told it well. At dessert,
the two men, left alone over their claret, talked
of hunting and the colonel learned that
nowhere is there more excellent sport, or game more
varied and abundant, than in Corsica. “There
are plenty of wild boars,” said Captain Ellis.
“And you have to learn to distinguish them from
the domestic pigs, which are astonishingly like them.
For if you kill a pig, you find yourself in difficulties
with the swine-herds. They rush out of the thickets
(which they call maquis) armed to the teeth,
make you pay for their beasts, and laugh at you besides.
Then there is the mouflon, a strange animal, which
you will not find anywhere else splendid
game, but hard to get and stags, deer,
pheasants, and partridges it would be impossible
to enumerate all the kinds with which Corsica swarms.
If you want shooting, colonel, go to Corsica!
There, as one of my entertainers said to me, you can
get a shot at every imaginable kind of game, from a
thrush to a man!”
At tea, the captain once more delighted
Lydia with the tale of a vendetta transversale
(A vendetta in which vengeance falls on a more or
less distant relation of the author of the original
offence.), even more strange than his first story,
and he thoroughly stirred her enthusiasm by his descriptions
of the strange wild beauty of the country, the peculiarities
of its inhabitants, and their primitive hospitality
and customs. Finally, he offered her a pretty
little stiletto, less remarkable for its shape and
copper mounting than for its origin. A famous
bandit had given it to Captain Ellis, and had assured
him it had been buried in four human bodies. Miss
Lydia thrust it through her girdle, laid it on the
table beside her bed, and unsheathed it twice over
before she fell asleep. Her father meanwhile was
dreaming he had slain a mouflon, and that its owner
insisted on his paying for it, a demand to which he
gladly acceded, seeing it was a most curious creature,
like a boar, with stag’s horns and a pheasant’s
tail.
“Ellis tells me there’s
splendid shooting in Corsica,” said the colonel,
as he sat at breakfast, alone with his daughter.
“If it hadn’t been for the distance, I
should like to spend a fortnight there.”
“Well,” replied Miss Lydia,
“why shouldn’t we go to Corsica? While
you are hunting I can sketch I should love
to have that grotto Captain Ellis talked about, where
Napoleon used to go and study when he was a child,
in my album.”
It was the first time, probably, that
any wish expressed by the colonel had won his daughter’s
approbation. Delighted as he was by the unexpected
harmony on their opinions, he was nevertheless wise
enough to put forward various objections, calculated
to sharpen Miss Lydia’s welcome whim. In
vain did he dwell on the wildness of the country, and
the difficulties of travel there for a lady. Nothing
frightened her; she liked travelling on horseback
of all things; she delighted in the idea of bivouacking
in the open; she even threatened to go as far as Asia
Minor in short, she found an answer to everything.
No Englishwoman had ever been to Corsica; therefore
she must go. What a pleasure it would be, when
she got back to St. James’s Place, to exhibit
her album! “But, my dear creature, why
do you pass over that delightful drawing?” “That’s
only a trifle just a sketch I made of a
famous Corsican bandit who was our guide.”
“What! you don’t mean to say you have been
to Corsica?”
As there were no steamboats between
France and Corsica, in those days, inquiries were
made for some ship about to sail for the island Miss
Lydia proposed to discover. That very day the
colonel wrote to Paris, to countermand his order for
the suite of apartments in which he was to have made
some stay, and bargained with the skipper of a Corsican
schooner, just about to set sail for Ajaccio, for two
poor cabins, but the best that could be had.
Provisions were sent on board, the skipper swore that
one of his sailors was an excellent cook, and had not
his equal for bouilleabaisse; he promised mademoiselle
should be comfortable, and have a fair wind and a
calm sea.
The colonel further stipulated, in
obedience to his daughter’s wishes, that no
other passenger should be taken on board, and that
the captain should skirt the coast of the island,
so that Miss Lydia might enjoy the view of the mountains.