The Culm, which rises in Somersetshire,
and hastening into a fairer land (as the border waters
wisely do) falls into the Exe near Killerton, formerly
was a lovely trout stream, such as perverts the Devonshire
angler from due respect toward Father Thames and the
other canals round London. In the Devonshire
valleys it is sweet to see how soon a spring becomes
a rill, and a rill runs on into a rivulet, and a rivulet
swells into a brook; and before one has time to say,
“What are you at?” — before the
first tree it ever spoke to is a dummy, or the first
hill it ever ran down has turned blue, here we have
all the airs and graces, demands and assertions of
a full-grown river.
But what is the test of a river?
Who shall say? “The power to drown a man,”
replies the river darkly. But rudeness is not
argument. Rather shall we say that the power
to work a good undershot wheel, without being dammed
up all night in a pond, and leaving a tidy back-stream
to spare at the bottom of the orchard, is a fair certificate
of riverhood. If so, many Devonshire streams
attain that rank within five miles of their spring;
aye, and rapidly add to it. At every turn they
gather aid, from ash-clad dingle and aldered meadow,
mossy rock and ferny wall, hedge-trough roofed with
bramble netting, where the baby water lurks, and lanes
that coming down to ford bring suicidal tribute.
Arrogant, all-engrossing river, now it has claimed
a great valley of its own; and whatever falls within
the hill scoop, sooner or later belongs to itself.
Even the crystal “shutt” that crosses the
farmyard by the woodrick, and glides down an aqueduct
of last year’s bark for Mary to fill the kettle
from; and even the tricklets that have no organs for
telling or knowing their business, but only get into
unwary oozings in and among the water-grass, and there
make moss and forget themselves among it — one
and all, they come to the same thing at last, and
that is the river.
The Culm used to be a good river at
Culmstock, tormented already by a factory, but not
strangled as yet by a railroad. How it is now
the present writer does not know, and is afraid to
ask, having heard of a vile “Culm Valley Line.”
But Culm-stock bridge was a very pretty place to stand
and contemplate the ways of trout; which is easier
work than to catch them. When I was just big
enough to peep above the rim, or to lie upon it with
one leg inside for fear of tumbling over, what a mighty
river it used to seem, for it takes a treat there and
spreads itself. Above the bridge the factory
stream falls in again, having done its business, and
washing its hands in the innocent half that has strayed
down the meadows. Then under the arches they both
rejoice and come to a slide of about two feet, and
make a short, wide pool below, and indulge themselves
in perhaps two islands, through which a little river
always magnifies itself, and maintains a mysterious
middle. But after that, all of it used to come
together, and make off in one body for the meadows,
intent upon nurturing trout with rapid stickles, and
buttercuppy corners where fat flies may tumble in.
And here you may find in the very first meadow, or
at any rate you might have found, forty years ago,
the celebrated “Crocker’s Hole.”
The story of Crocker is unknown to
me, and interesting as it doubtless was, I do not
deal with him, but with his Hole. Tradition said
that he was a baker’s boy who, during his basket-rounds,
fell in love with a maiden who received the cottage-loaf,
or perhaps good “Households,” for her
master’s use. No doubt she was charming,
as a girl should be, but whether she encouraged the
youthful baker and then betrayed him with false rôle,
or whether she “consisted” throughout, — as
our cousins across the water express it, — is
known to their manes only. Enough that
she would not have the floury lad; and that he, after
giving in his books and money, sought an untimely
grave among the trout. And this was the first
pool below the bread-walk deep enough to drown a five-foot
baker boy. Sad it was; but such things must be,
and bread must still be delivered daily.
A truce to such reflections, — as
our foremost writers always say, when they do not
see how to go on with them, — but it is a
serious thing to know what Crocker’s Hole was
like; because at a time when (if he had only persevered,
and married the maid, and succeeded to the oven, and
reared a large family of short-weight bakers) he might
have been leaning on his crutch beside the pool, and
teaching his grandson to swim by precept (that beautiful
proxy for practice) — at such a time, I say,
there lived a remarkably fine trout in that hole.
Anglers are notoriously truthful, especially as to
what they catch, or even more frequently have not
caught. Though I may have written fiction, among
many other sins, — as a nice old lady told
me once, — now I have to deal with facts;
and foul scorn would I count it ever to make believe
that I caught that fish. My length at that time
was not more than the butt of a four-jointed rod,
and all I could catch was a minnow with a pin, which
our cook Lydia would not cook, but used to say, “Oh,
what a shame, Master Richard! they would have been
trout in the summer, please God! if you would only
a’ let ’em grow on.” She is
living now, and will bear me out in this.
But upon every great occasion there
arises a great man; or to put it more accurately,
in the present instance, a mighty and distinguished
boy. My father, being the parson of the parish,
and getting, need it be said, small pay, took sundry
pupils, very pleasant fellows, about to adorn the
universities. Among them was the original “Bude
Light,” as he was satirically called at Cambridge,
for he came from Bude, and there was no light in him.
Among them also was John Pike, a born Zebedee, if
ever there was one.
John Pike was a thick-set younker,
with a large and bushy head, keen blue eyes that could
see through water, and the proper slouch of shoulder
into which great anglers ripen; but greater still are
born with it; and of these was Master John. It
mattered little what the weather was, and scarcely
more as to the time of year, John Pike must have his
fishing every day, and on Sundays he read about it,
and made flies. All the rest of the time he was
thinking about it.
My father was coaching him in the
fourth book of the AEneid and all those wonderful
speeches of Dido, where passion disdains construction;
but the only line Pike cared for was of horsehair.
“I fear, Mr. Pike, that you are not giving me
your entire attention,” my father used to say
in his mild dry way; and once when Pike was more than
usually abroad, his tutor begged to share his meditations.
“Well, sir,” said Pike, who was very truthful,
“I can see a green drake by the strawberry tree,
the first of the season, and your derivation of ‘barbarous’
put me in mind of my barberry dye.” In
those days it was a very nice point to get the right
tint for the mallard’s feather.
No sooner was lesson done than Pike,
whose rod was ready upon the lawn, dashed away always
for the river, rushing headlong down the hill, and
away to the left through a private yard, where “no
thoroughfare” was put up, and a big dog stationed
to enforce it. But Cerberus himself could not
have stopped John Pike; his conscience backed him up
in trespass the most sinful when his heart was inditing
of a trout upon the rise.
All this, however, is preliminary,
as the boy said when he put his father’s coat
upon his grandfather’s tenterhooks, with felonious
intent upon his grandmother’s apples; the main
point to be understood is this, that nothing — neither
brazen tower, hundred-eyed Argus, nor Cretan Minotaur — could
stop John Pike from getting at a good stickle.
But, even as the world knows nothing of its greatest
men, its greatest men know nothing of the world beneath
their very nose, till fortune sneezes dexter.
For two years John Pike must have been whipping the
water as hard as Xerxes, without having ever once
dreamed of the glorious trout that lived in Crocker’s
Hole. But why, when he ought to have been at
least on bowing terms with every fish as long as his
middle finger, why had he failed to know this champion?
The answer is simple — because of his short
cuts. Flying as he did like an arrow from a bow,
Pike used to hit his beloved river at an elbow, some
furlong below Crocker’s Hole, where a sweet
little stickle sailed away down stream, whereas for
the length of a meadow upward the water lay smooth,
clear, and shallow; therefore the youth, with so little
time to spare, rushed into the downward joy.
And here it may be noted that the
leading maxim of the present period, that man can
discharge his duty only by going counter to the stream,
was scarcely mooted in those days. My grandfather
(who was a wonderful man, if he was accustomed to
fill a cart in two days of fly-fishing on the Barle)
regularly fished down stream; and what more than a
cartload need anyone put into his basket?
And surely it is more genial and pleasant
to behold our friend the river growing and thriving
as we go on, strengthening its voice and enlargening
its bosom, and sparkling through each successive meadow
with richer plenitude of silver, than to trace it
against its own grain and good-will toward weakness,
and littleness, and immature conceptions.
However, you will say that if John
Pike had fished up stream, he would have found this
trout much sooner. And that is true; but still,
as it was, the trout had more time to grow into such
a prize. And the way in which John found him
out was this. For some days he had been tormented
with a very painful tooth, which even poisoned all
the joys of fishing. Therefore he resolved to
have it out, and sturdily entered the shop of John
Sweetland, the village blacksmith, and there paid his
sixpence. Sweetland extracted the teeth of the
village, whenever they required it, in the simplest
and most effectual way. A piece of fine wire was
fastened round the tooth, and the other end round the
anvil’s nose, then the sturdy blacksmith shut
the lower half of his shop door, which was about breast-high,
with the patient outside and the anvil within; a strong
push of the foot upset the anvil, and the tooth flew
out like a well-thrown fly. When John Pike had
suffered this very bravely, “Ah, Master Pike,”
said the blacksmith, with a grin, “I reckon you
won’t pull out thic there big vish,” — the
smithy commanded a view of the river, –“clever
as you be, quite so peart as thiccy.”
“What big fish?” asked
the boy, with deepest interest, though his mouth was
bleeding fearfully.
“Why that girt mortial of a
vish as hath his hover in Crocker’s Hole.
Zum on ’em saith as a’ must be a zammon.”
Off went Pike with his handkerchief
to his mouth, and after him ran Alec Bolt, one of
his fellow-pupils, who had come to the shop to enjoy
the extraction.
“Oh, my!” was all that
Pike could utter, when by craftily posting himself
he had obtained a good view of this grand fish.
“I’ll lay you a crown
you don’t catch him!” cried Bolt, an impatient
youth, who scorned angling.
“How long will you give me?”
asked the wary Pike, who never made rash wagers.
“Oh! till the holidays if you
like; or, if that won’t do, till Michaelmas.”
Now the midsummer holidays were six
weeks off — boys used not to talk of “vacations”
then, still less of “recesses.”
“I think I’ll bet you,”
said Pike, in his slow way, bending forward carefully,
with his keen eyes on this monster; “but it would
not be fair to take till Michaelmas. I’ll
bet you a crown that I catch him before the holidays — at
least, unless some other fellow does.”