It seemed to Heywood that he had not
been asleep more than five minutes, when he was aroused
by Jasper laying his heavy hand on his shoulder.
On rubbing his eyes and gazing round him, he found
that the first streak of dawn was visible in the eastern
sky, that the canoe was already in the water, and
that his companions were ready to embark.
It is usually found that men are not
disposed to talk at that early hour. Heywood
merely remarked that it was a fine morning, to which
Jasper replied by a nod of his head. Nothing
more was said. The artist rolled up his blanket
in a piece of oiled-cloth, collected his drawing materials
and put them into their bag, got into his place in
the centre of the canoe, and immediately went to sleep,
while Jasper and the Indian, taking their places in
the bow and stern, dipped the paddles into the water
and shot away from the shore. They looked mysterious
and ghostly in the dim morning light; and the whole
scene around them looked mysterious and ghostly too,
for the water in the lake seemed black, and the shores
and islands looked like dark shadows, and a pale thin
mist rolled slowly over the surface of the water and
hung overhead. No sound was heard except the
light plash of the paddles as the two backwoodsmen
urged their little canoe swiftly along.
By degrees the light of day increased,
and Jasper awakened Heywood in order that he might
behold the beautiful scenery through which they passed.
They were now approaching the upper end of the lake,
in which there were innumerable islands of every shape
and size - some of them not more than a few
yards in length, while some were two or three hundred
yards across, but all were clothed with the most beautiful
green foliage and shrubbery. As the pale yellow
of the eastern sky began to grow red, ducks and gulls
bestirred themselves. Early risers among them
first began to chirp, and scream, and whistle their
morning song, - for there are lazy ones among
the birds, just as there are among men. Sometimes,
when the canoe rounded a point of rocks a flock of
geese were found floating peacefully among the sedges,
sound asleep, with their heads under their wings.
These would leap into the air and fly off in great
alarm, with much difficulty and tremendous splutter,
reminding one of the proverb, “The more haste
the less speed.” At other times they would
come upon a flock of ducks so suddenly, that they had
no time to take wing, so they dived instead, and thus
got out of the way.
Then the yellow hue of sunrise came,
a good while before the sun himself rose. The
last of the bright stars were put out by the flood
of light, and multitudes of little birds on shore
began to chirp their morning song; and who can say
that this was not a hymn of praise to God, when, in
the Holy Bible itself, in the 150th Psalm, we find
it written, “Let everything that hath breath
praise the Lord.”
At last the sun burst forth in all
his golden glory. Water, earth, and sky glowed
as if they had been set on fire. What a blessed
influence the sun has upon this world! It resembles
the countenance of a loving father beaming in upon
his family, driving away clouds, and diffusing warmth
and joy.
The birds were now all astir together,
insomuch that the air seemed alive with them.
There are small white gulls, with red legs and red
beaks, in those large inland lakes, just as there are
on the ocean. These began to utter their sweet
wild cries so powerfully that they almost drowned
the noise of all the rest. Yet the united chorus
of the whole was not harsh. It was softened
and mellowed by distance, and fell on the ears of
the two hunters as pleasantly as the finest music does
in the ears of men trained to sweet sounds from infancy.
Not until the sun had ascended a considerable
way on its course through the sky, did Jasper think
it necessary to lay down his paddle. By that
time the upper end of the lake had been reached, and
the hunter had run the canoe close to a ledge of flat
rock and jumped ashore, saying that it was time for
breakfast.
“I had almost got to believe
I was in paradise,” said Heywood, as he stepped
ashore.
“I often think there’s
a good deal of the garden of Eden still left in this
world,” replied Jasper, as he carried the kettle
up to the level part of the rock and began to kindle
a fire, while the Indian, as usual, hewed the wood.
“If we could only make use of God’s gifts
instead of abusin’ them, I do believe we might
be very happy all our days.”
“See there, Jasper, is one of
the birds I want so much to get hold of. I want
to make a drawing of him. Would you object to
spend a shot on such game.”
Heywood pointed as he spoke to a grey
bird, about the size of a blackbird, which sat on
a branch close above his head. This creature
is called by the fur-traders a whisky-John, and it
is one of the most impudent little birds in the world!
Wherever you go throughout the country, there you
find whisky-Johns ready to receive and welcome you,
as if they were the owners of the soil. They
are perfectly fearless; they will come and sit on
a branch within a yard of your hand, when you are
eating, and look at you in the most inquisitive manner.
If they could speak, they could not say more plainly,
“What have you got there? - give me
some!” If you leave the mouth of your provision
sack open they are sure to jump into it. When
you are done eating they will scarcely let you six
yards away before they make a dash at the crumbs;
and if you throw sticks or stones at them, they will
hop out of the way, but they will not take to flight!
“It would be a pity to waste
powder on them critters,” said Jasper, “but
I’ll catch one for you.”
As he said this he took a few crumbs
of broken meat from the bottom of the provision sack
and spread them on his right hand; then he lay down
under a bush, covered his face with a few leaves, and
thrust out his hand. Heywood and the Indian
retired a few paces and stood still to await the result.
In a few seconds a whisky-John came
flying towards the open hand, and alighted on a branch
within a yard of it. Here he shook his feathers
and looked very bold, but suspicious, for a few minutes,
turning first one eye towards the hand, and then the
other. After a little he hopped on a branch
still nearer, and, seeing no motion in the hand, he
at last hopped upon the palm and began to peck the
crumbs. Instantly the fingers closed, and Jasper
caught him by the toes, whereupon the whisky-John
began to scream furiously with rage and terror.
But I am bound to say there was more of rage than
of terror in his cry.
Jasper handed the passionate bird
over to the artist, who tried to make a portrait of
him, but he screamed and pecked so fiercely that Heywood
was obliged to let him go after making a rough sketch.
Breakfast was a repetition of the
supper of the night before; it was soon disposed of,
and the three travellers again set forth. This
time Jasper sang one of the beautiful canoe songs
peculiar to that country, and Heywood and Arrowhead,
both of whom had good voices, joined in the chorus.
They soon passed from the lake into
the river by which it was fed. At first the
current of this river was sluggish; but as they ascended,
it became stronger, and was broken here and there
by rapids.
The severe toil of travelling in the
backwoods now began. To paddle on a level lake
all day is easy enough, for, when you get tired, you
can lay down the paddle and rest. But in the
river this is impossible, because of the current.
The only way to get a rest is to push the bow of
the canoe ashore. It was a fine sight to see
the movements of Jasper and the Indian when they came
to the first rapid. Heywood knew that he could
be of no use, so, like a wise man, he sat still and
looked on.
The rapid was a very strong one, but
there were no falls in it; only a furious gush of
water over the broken bed of the river, where many
large rocks rose up and caught the current, hurling
the water back in white foam. Any one who knew
not what these hunters could do, would have laughed
if you had told him they were about to ascend that
rapid in such an egg-shell of a canoe!
They began by creeping up, in-shore,
as far as they could. Then they dashed boldly
out into the stream, and the current whirled them down
with lightning speed, but suddenly the canoe came to
a halt in the very middle of the stream! Every
rock in a rapid has a long tail of still water below
it; the canoe had got into one of these tails or eddies,
and there it rested securely. A few yards higher
up there was another rock, nearer to the opposite
bank, and the eddy which tailed off from it came down
a little lower than the rock behind which the canoe
now lay. There was a furious gush of water between
them and this eddy, but the men knew what the canoe
could bear, and their nerves were strong and steady.
Across they went like a shot. They were swept
down to the extreme point of the eddy, but a few powerful
strokes of the paddle sent them into it, and next
moment they were floating behind the second rock, a
few yards higher up the stream.
Thus they darted from rock to rock,
gaining a few yards at each dart, until at last they
swept into the smooth water at the head of the rapid.
Many a time was this repeated that
day, for rapids were numerous; their progress was
therefore slow. Sometimes they came to parts
of the river where the stream was very strong and
deep, but not broken by rocks, so that they had no
eddies to dart into. In such places Arrowhead
and Heywood walked along the bank, and hauled the
canoe up by means of a line, while Jasper remained
in it to steer. This was hard work, for the
banks in places were very steep, in some parts composed
of soft mud, into which the men sank nearly up to
their knees, and in other places covered so thickly
with bushes that it was almost impossible to force
a path through them. Jasper and the Indian took
the steering-paddle by turns, and when Heywood required
a rest he got into his place in the middle of the
canoe; but they never halted for more than a few minutes
at a time. All day they paddled and dragged the
canoe slowly up against the strong current, and when
night closed in they found they had advanced only
three miles on their journey.
The last obstacle they came to that
day was a roaring waterfall about thirty feet high.
Here, it might have been thought, was an effectual
check to them at last. Nothing without wings
could have gone up that waterfall, which filled the
woods with the thunder of its roar; but the canoe
had no wings, so what was to be done?
To one ignorant of the customs of
that country, going on would have seemed impossible,
but nothing can stop the advance of a backwoods voyager.
If his canoe won’t carry him, he carries his
canoe! Jasper and his friends did so on the
present occasion. They had reached what is called
a portage or carrying-place, and there are hundreds
of such places all over Rupert’s Land.
On arriving at the foot of the fall,
Heywood set off at once to a spot from which he could
obtain a good view of it, and sat down to sketch,
while his companions unloaded the canoe and lifted
it out of the water. Then Jasper collected together
as much of the baggage as he could carry, and clambered
up the bank with it, until he reached the still water
at the top of the fall. Here he laid it down
and returned for another load. Meanwhile Arrowhead
lifted the canoe with great ease, placed it on his
shoulders, and bore it to the same place. When
all had been carried up, the canoe was launched into
the quiet water a few hundred yards above the fall,
the baggage was replaced in it, and the travellers
were ready to continue their voyage. This whole
operation is called making a portage.
It took about an hour to make this portage.
Portages vary in length and in
numbers. In some rivers they are few and far
between; in others they are so numerous that eight
or twelve may have to be made in a day. Many
of the portages are not more than an eighth of
a mile in length, and are crossed for the purpose of
avoiding a waterfall. Some are four or five
miles in extent, for many long reaches in the rivers
are so broken by falls and rapids, that the voyagers
find it their best plan to take canoes and baggage
on their backs and cut across country for several
miles; thus they avoid rough places altogether.
Jasper delayed starting for half an
hour, in order to give Heywood time to finish his
sketch of the fall. It began to grow dark when
they again embarked, so, after paddling up stream
until a convenient place was found, they put ashore
and encamped within sight of another waterfall, the
roar of which, softened by distance, fell upon their
ears all that night like the sound of pleasant music.