The mountains of South-West Shropshire
are less known to the lovers of fine scenery than
their great beauty deserves, though they are familiar
to most geologists as the typical region of the lowest
fossil-bearing deposits. Of this group of hills
the highest is the Long Mynd, a mountain district
of very remarkable character, and many miles in extent.
It is about ten miles long, and from three to four
miles in breadth. Its summit is a wide expanse
of table land, the highest part of which is nearly
seventeen hundred feet above the level of the sea.
The whole of this unenclosed moorland is covered
with gorse and heather, making it extremely gay in
the summer time; it is also tolerably abundant in grouse
and black game, and so fruitful in bilberries, that
from 400 to 500 pounds worth are said to have been
gathered on it in the course of a single season.
On first hearing it, this sounds an improbable statement;
but any one who has been upon the mountain in a good
“whinberry season” as it is called, will
readily understand that this is no exaggeration.
To the poor people for miles around, the “whinberry
picking” is the great event of the year.
The whole family betake themselves to the hill with
the early morning, carrying with them their provisions
for the day; and not unfrequently a kettle to prepare
tea forms part of their load. I know no more
picturesque sight than that presented by the summit
of the Long Mynd towards four o’clock on an
August afternoon, when numerous fires are lit among
the heather, and as many kettles steaming away on the
top of them, while noisy, chattering groups of women
and children are clustered round, glad to rest after
a hard day’s work. A family will pick
many quarts of bilberries in the day, and as these
are sold at prices varying from 3d. to 5d. a quart,
it will be readily understood that it is by no means
impossible that the large sum of 400 or 500 pounds
should thus be realised in a single season.
The appearance of this Long Mynd mountain
on the northern side, looking towards Shrewsbury,
presents no feature of striking interest, and the
ascent is a gradual one, leading chiefly through cultivated
ground; but the aspect of the south-eastern or Stretton
side is wild in the extreme, the whole face of the
mountain being broken up into deep ravines, with precipitous
sides, where purple rocks project boldly through the
turf, and in many places even the active sheep and
mountain ponies can scarcely find a footing.
Down each of these ravines runs a small stream of
exquisitely pure water, one of which, near the entrance
of the valley, becomes considerable enough to turn
a mill for carding wool. This stream falls over
rocks at the head of the ravine, in a small cascade
of a considerable height called the Light Spout.
Many people have lost their lives
among these hills at different times, and places here
and there bear such suggestive names, as “Dead
Man’s Beach,” “Dead Man’s
Hollow,” &c. The last fair, too, which
is held at Church Stretton before Christmas is locally
known as “Dead Man’s Fair,” several
men have perished whilst attempting to return home
after it across the hill in the dark November night.
No one, however, till this winter has been lost for
many years. Two drovers were the last persons
who perished here, and they lost their lives near a
place called “The Thresholds,” in a deep
snow which fell in April thirty-seven years ago.
The western slope of the Long Mynd
is less strikingly picturesque and more desolate,
but the view from the top in this direction is the
finest of any. Almost unseen in a narrow valley
at the foot of the mountain, stand the village and
church of Ratlinghope, the centre of a parish numbering
about three hundred souls only, but which stretches
over miles of mountain country, embracing a portion
of the wild mining district of the Stiper Stones.
Beyond these hills the eye passes to the Welsh mountains,
and rests at last on the grand peaks of Cader Idris
in one direction, and Snowdon in the other, which
may be seen in clear weather sharply defined against
a sunset sky.
Poor Ratlinghope was in sore need
of some one to look after it when the living was offered
to me in September 1856. It had at that time
been left for many Sundays together without a service,
the late incumbent residing in Shrewsbury, twelve
miles distant, and being frequently prevented by ill
health from coming over. There is no house in
the parish where a clergyman could live, or even procure
tolerable lodgings; and if there were, there is next
to nothing, as one of the parishioners said to me
the other day, “to find coals to warm it with.”
It is scarcely to be wondered at that under these
circumstances, when the living became vacant in the
summer of 1856, there was no suitable person to be
found who was willing to accept so desirable a piece
of preferment. The parish of Wolstaston, of which
I have the charge, and in which I reside, is situated
on high ground on the eastern slope of the Long Mynd,
i.e. exactly on the opposite side of the mountain
to Ratlinghope. Above Wolstaston the ground
rises steadily for about a mile and a half till you
come to the unenclosed moorland, which stretches away
for many miles of open country, covered with heather
and gorse. It was under the circumstances that
I have already mentioned that the living of Ratlinghope
was offered to me. I was aware that it would
be impossible to attend to the parish as one would
wish to do, with four miles of this wild hill country
to cross between the two villages. Still, as
no one else could be found to take it, and I thought
that the Ratlinghope people might think that “half-a-loaf
was better than no bread,” I consented to accept
the living, and do the best I could for it; so I altered
my second service at Wolstaston from three o’clock
in the afternoon to six, which enabled me to give
an afternoon service at Ratlinghope every Sunday.
I soon found, however, that the task
I had undertaken was no very light one, as the only
access from Wolstaston to Ratlinghope was by mountain
tracks, over the highest part of the Long Mynd, unless
indeed one drove round the base of the hill, a distance
of at least twelve miles. The ride was pleasant
enough in fine weather, but less enjoyable when fogs
hung heavy over the hill, when the tracks were slippery
with ice, or when falling snow concealed every landmark.
It not unfrequently happened in winter, when the
snow was very deep, or much drifted, that it was impossible
to ride across the hill, and the expedition then had
to be performed on foot; still I always managed to
cross somehow, in spite of wind or weather, so that
during the last eight years and a half the little
mountain church has never been without one Sunday service.
I find that during that time I have crossed the Long
Mynd (in round numbers) nearly two thousand five hundred
times; consequently my knowledge of the country became
so intimate, that I felt equally at home upon the hill
in all weathers, and at all hours of the day and night.
On one occasion, I had to cross it late on a November
night and in a dense fog, when returning home from
Ratlinghope, and met with no accident; and I think
that this and similar experiences made me somewhat
over confident. I mention this to show how little
the most perfect acquaintance with country will avail
any one when overtaken by such a blinding snow storm
as that of the 29th of January last.
During the preceding week the snow
fell heavily, and accumulated on the hills to a greater
depth than had been known for fifty-one years.
Public opinion was unanimous that there had been
nothing like it since 1814. A strong wind, moreover,
had so drifted it that the roads were impassable,
and the communication between neighbouring villages,
and even between houses in the same village, almost
ceased. Letters wont to be received in the morning
arrived late in the day, or not at all; and unhappy
folk who were unprovided with a good store of food
and coals had either to borrow of their neighbours
or starve. The morning service at Wolstaston
on Sunday the 29th was of necessity but thinly attended,
and it seemed probable that I should not even be expected
at Ratlinghope. As, however, the service there
had never been omitted owing to bad weather, I was
anxious to get to my little church if possible; in
fact, I considered it my duty to make the attempt,
though I felt very doubtful whether I should succeed.
Accordingly, very soon after morning
service at Wolstaston was over, I started on the expedition.
I was in such a hurry to be off that I could not
stay to take my usual luncheon, but swallowed a few
mouthfuls of soup, and put a small flask containing
about three ounces of brandy in my pocket. My
taking anything of the kind with me was a most unprecedented
circumstance. I only remember one other occasion
in which I did so, and that was also in a very deep
snow; but now foreseeing a walk of no common difficulty,
I thought the precaution a wise one, and saw reason
afterwards to be thankful that I had adopted it.
I started on horseback, though I knew
that I could only ride a short distance, but thought
it advisable to save myself all unnecessary fatigue.
I was of course accompanied by a servant to bring
back the horses when they were of no further use.
By leaving the lane and making our way across the
fields over hedge and ditch, we contrived to ride
about half a mile. The horses then became useless,
as the drifts were so deep against the hedges and
gates, that the poor animals became imbedded in them,
and were unable to find any firm footing to leap from.
The servant therefore had to return with them long
before I reached the unenclosed mountain land, and
I proceeded on my way alone.
The journey proved more difficult
even than I had expected. The snow was for the
most part up to the knees and very soft, and the drifts
were so deep that they could only be crossed by crawling
on hands and knees, as any one will readily understand
who has attempted to cross deep snow when in a soft
state. When I reached the open moorland the day
was bright and fine, and the snow stretched around
me for miles in a dazzling expanse very painful to
the eyes, and unbroken by track, landmark, or footprint
of any living creature. The form of the country,
however, was a sufficient guide to my destination,
and after a severe struggle over and through the drifts,
I reached my little church at a quarter-past three
o’clock, just two hours and a quarter from the
time I had left Wolstaston. A few people were
assembled together, though no one had really expected
me, and after a short service I started on my homeward
journey, having refused the invitations of my kind
people to stay the night amongst them, as I was anxious
to get back to Wolstaston in time for my six o’clock
evening service, and I did not anticipate that I should
encounter any greater difficulties in my return home
than I had done in coming to Ratlinghope.
During the three quarters of an hour,
however, that we had been in church, the aspect of
the weather had completely changed. A furious
gale had come on from E.S.E., which, as soon as I
got on the open moorland, I found was driving clouds
of snow and icy sleet before it. It was with
considerable difficulty that I made my way up the western
ascent of the hill, as I had to walk in the teeth
of this gale. The force of the wind was most
extraordinary. I have been in many furious gales,
but never in anything to compare with that, as it
took me off my legs, and blew me flat down upon the
ground over and over again. The sleet too was
most painful, stinging one’s face, and causing
such injury to the eyes, that it was impossible to
lift up one’s head. I contrived, however,
to fight my way through it, and at length reached
the crest of the hill. Though I could not see
many yards in any direction, I knew at this time exactly
where I was, as I passed the carcase of a mountain
pony which I had previously noticed. The poor
thing had no doubt been famished to death, and was
fast wasting to a skeleton. Numbers of these
hardy little animals have perished during the severe
weather from hunger, having been previously reduced
to the lowest condition through lack of pasturage
during the dry season of 1864. One man, who owned
fourteen of them, has lost every one.
Leaving this solitary waymark, the
half buried skeleton, by which I had rested for a
few minutes and taken a little of my brandy, I started
again, having first made a careful observation of the
direction in which I should go. After a further
struggle across the level summit of the hill, I reached
my second landmark, a pool in a little hollow between
the hills, which is well known to the inhabitants
of the district, and interesting to naturalists, as
the resort of curlews and other rare birds; here again
I took a short rest, and then started upon what I
fondly dreamed would be the last difficult stage of
my journey.
My way from the pool lay first up
a steep ascent for rather less than half a mile to
the top of the hill, and then across a level flat for
some three or four hundred yards, when a fir plantation
would be reached at the edge of the enclosed ground.
Once within the friendly shelter of those firs, I
knew that the remainder of my walk, though still tedious
and fatiguing, would be comparatively easy. It
pleased God, however, that I should never reach them
that night. Doubtless I had been too confident
in my own powers, and at the very time when I thought
the difficulties and dangers of my task were well
nigh accomplished, I was taught a lesson which I shall
remember to the latest hour of my life. I ascended
the hill to the flat already spoken of, though it was
a very slow process, for owing to the depth of the
drifts, which were now increasing rapidly, and the
force of the wind, I was compelled to crawl a great
part of the way. The storm now came on, if possible,
with increased fury. It was quite impossible
to look up or see for a yard around, and the snow
came down so thick and fast that my servant, who had
come some distance up the lane from Wolstaston in hopes
of seeing something of me, describing it to me afterwards,
said, “Sir, it was just as if they were throwing
it on to us out of buckets.” I fought on
through it, however, expecting soon to come to the
fir wood. On and on I went, but not a glimpse
of its friendly shelter could I see, the real fact
being that I had borne away a great deal too much to
the right, almost at right angles to my proper course.
Having been blown down over and over again, I had
probably, in rising to my feet, altered my direction
unconsciously. The wind too, by which I had been
trying to steer, proved a treacherous compass; for,
as I have been told, about this time it went more
round into the south. It was, moreover, becoming
very dark. After a while I became aware that
the ground under my feet was of a wrong shape, sloping
downwards when it should have been level, and I then
knew that I had missed my way. This, however,
gave me no great uneasiness, as I imagined that I
had only gone a little too much to the south of the
wood, and that I should soon reach an inhabited district
at the bottom of it, known as Bullock’s Moor,
from which a somewhat circuitous route would bring
me safely home. Under this impression I walked
cheerfully on, but only for a few steps further.
Suddenly my feet flew from under me, and I found
myself shooting at a fearful pace down the side of
one of the steep ravines which I had imagined lay far
away to my right. I thought to check myself
by putting my stick behind me, and bearing heavily
upon it in the manner usual under such circumstances
in Alpine travelling. Before, however, I could
do so I came in contact with something which jerked
it out of my hand and turned me round, so that I continued
my tremendous glissade head downwards, lying on my
back.
The pace I was going in this headlong
descent must have been very great, yet it seemed to
me to occupy a marvellous space of time, long enough
for the events of my whole previous life to pass in
review before me, as I had often before heard that
they did in moments of extreme peril. I never
lost my consciousness, but had time to think much of
those I should leave behind me, expecting every moment
as I did to be dashed over the rocks at the bottom
of the ravine; knew in fact that such must be my fate,
unless I could stop myself by some means. Owing
to the softness of the snow, I contrived to accomplish
this by kicking my foot as deep into the snow as I
could, and at the same time bending my knee with a
smart muscular effort, so as to make a hook of my
leg; this brought me to a stand still, but my position
was anything but agreeable even then, hanging head
downwards on a very steep part, and never knowing any
moment but what I might start again. With much
difficulty, however, I at length succeeded in getting
myself the right way up, and then descended with great
care to the bottom of the ravine, intending if possible
to walk along the course of the stream in its hollow
till it should lead me to the enclosed country.
The ravine, however, was so choked up with snow,
that to walk along the valley was utterly impossible.
The drifts were many feet over my head, in several
places they must have been at least twenty feet in
depth; and having once got into them, I had the greatest
difficulty, by scratching and struggling, to extricate
myself from them again. It was now dark.
I did not know into which of the ravines I had fallen,
for at this part there is a complete network of them
intersecting each other in every direction.
The only way by which I had thought to escape was
hopelessly blocked up, and I had to face the awful
fact that I was lost among the hills, should have
to spend the night there, and that, humanly speaking,
it was almost impossible that I could survive it.
The instinct of self-preservation,
however, is strong, even when a fearful death seems
close at hand, and there were others for whose sake,
even more than my own, I desired that night that my
life might be spared, if such were God’s will.
I knew that, under Providence, all depended on my
own powers of endurance, and that the struggle for
life must be a very severe one. The depth of
the snow made walking a very exhausting effort.
It was always up to my knees, more often up to my waist;
but my only chance, as I was well aware, was to keep
moving; and having extricated myself at last from
the drifts in the ravine, I began to climb the opposite
side of the hill, though I had not the least idea in
which direction I ought to go. As I made my
way upwards, I saw just in front of me what looked
like a small shadow flitting about, for owing to the
white ground it was never completely dark. I
was much surprised at this, especially as when I came
close to it, it disappeared into the snow, with the
exception of one round dark spot, which remained motionless.
I put my hand down upon this dark object to ascertain
what it could possibly be, and found that I had got
hold of a hare’s head! I saw many of these
little animals in the course of the night. They
made holes in the snow for shelter, and sat in them
well protected by their warm coats, happier far than
their human fellow-sufferer, who knew that for him
there must be no rest that night if he would see the
light of another day.
Having climbed the hill, I walked
along its crest for some distance, till suddenly I
again lost my footing, and shot down the hill, as far
as I can judge, on the opposite side into another
ravine. This was, if possible, a more fearful
glissade than my previous one; it was a very precipitous
place, and I was whirled round and round in my descent,
sometimes head first, sometimes feet first, and again
sideways, rolling over and over, till at last, by
clutching at the gorse bushes, and digging my feet
into the snow as before, I once more managed to check
my wild career, and bring myself to a stand; but I
had lost my hat and a pair of warm fur gloves, which
I had on over a pair of old dogskins. The loss
of these fur gloves proved very serious to me, as
my hands soon began to get so numbed with the cold,
that they were comparatively useless.
At the bottom of the ravine into which
I had now fallen, I found myself again involved in
snow drifts, and had still more difficulty than before
in getting out of them. I had tumbled into a
very soft one far over my head, and had to fight,
and scratch, and burrow for a long time before I could
extricate myself, and became more exhausted than at
any other time during the night. I only ventured
to take my brandy very sparingly, wishing to husband
it as much as possible, and there was but a very tiny
drop left. My hands, as I have said, were so
numbed with cold as to be nearly useless. I
had the greatest difficulty in holding the flask, or
in eating snow for refreshment, and could hardly get
my hands to my mouth for the masses of ice which had
formed upon my whiskers, and which were gradually
developed into a long crystal beard, hanging half way
to my waist. Icicles likewise had formed about
my eyes and eyebrows, which I frequently had to break
off, and my hair had frozen into a solid block of
ice. After the loss of my hat, my hair must,
I suppose, have become filled with snow, while I was
overhead in the drifts. Probably this was partially
melted by the warmth of my head, and subsequently converted
into ice by the intense frost. Large balls of
ice also formed upon my cuffs, and underneath my knees,
which encumbered me very much in walking, and I had
continually to break them off. I tried to supply
the place of my hat by tying my handkerchief over
my head, but found that by no possible effort could
I make a knot, and that I could only keep it on my
head by holding the corners between my teeth.
It was equally impossible to refasten my overcoat,
only a thin tweed (for I had dressed lightly, in expectation
of hard exercise), which had become unbuttoned in my
last fall. It may seem absurd to mention it,
but the cravings of hunger grew so keen, stimulated
as they were by the cold and the great exertion, that
it actually occurred to me whether I could eat one
of my old dogskin gloves. I was, however, deterred
from making the attempt, partly by the prospect of
its toughness, and partly by the fear of greater injury
to my hands from frost bite, if they were deprived
of their last covering. My exhaustion was so
great that I fell down every two or three steps, and
the temptation to give in and lie down in the snow
became almost irresistible, and had to be struggled
against with every power of mind and body. I
endeavoured to keep constantly before me the certain
fact, that if sleep once overcame me I should never
wake again in this life. The night seemed interminably
long. Again and again I tried to calculate the
time, but always came to the same conclusion, that
many hours must elapse before the return of daylight.
The wind had gone down, and the stillness became
so oppressive, that I often spoke aloud for the sake
of hearing my own voice, and to ascertain that the
cold, which was intense, had not deprived me of the
power of speech. The hares still sported and
burrowed on the hill sides, but excepting these there
were no signs of life whatever.
Never did shipwrecked mariner watch
for the morning more anxiously than did I through
that weary, endless night, for I knew that a glimpse
of the distance in any one direction would enable
me to steer my course homewards. Day dawned
at last, but hope and patience were to be yet further
tried, for a dense fog clung to the face of the hill,
obscuring everything but the objects close at hand.
Furthermore, I discovered that I was rapidly becoming
snow blind. My eyes, which had been considerably
injured already by the sharp sleet of the evening before,
were further affected by the glare of the snow, and
I was fast losing all distinctness of vision.
I first learned the extent of this new calamity when
endeavouring, with the earliest light, to look at my
watch. It was a work of great difficulty to
get it out of my pocket; and when this was done, I
found that I could not tell the face from the back.
The whole thing was hazy and indistinct, and I can
only describe it as looking like an orange seen through
a mist. Such sight as remained rapidly became
all confusion as regarded the form, colour, and proportion
of objects. Again and again I thought I saw
before me trees and enclosures, but these, when I
came up to them, invariably turned out to be only portions
of gorse bushes projecting through the snow.
My optical delusions as to colour were perhaps
the most remarkable; the protruding rocks invariably
appeared of a strange orange yellow, with black lines
along them, producing a short of tortoise-shell effect.
I took these mysterious appearances at first for
dead animals, ponies or sheep, and touched them to
try to ascertain the fact. My hands, however,
were so utterly devoid of sensation, that they were
of no more use than my eyes in identifying objects.
I was therefore quite in the dark as to their nature,
till experience proved them to be rocks with tufts
of heather on them. Owing to my failing eyesight,
my falls became very frequent, and several of them
were from heights so great that it would scarcely be
believed were I to attempt to describe them.
I may, however, say, that they were such as perfectly
to appal those who, a few days afterwards, visited
the spots where they occurred, and saw the deep impressions
in the snow where I had plunged into it from the rocks
above. One fall especially I well remember.
I had just crossed the ridge of a hill, and saw, as
I imagined, close below me a pool covered with ice,
which seemed free from snow. I thought I would
walk across this, and, accordingly, made a slight
jump from the rock on which I stood in order to reach
it. In a moment, however, I discovered that,
instead of on to a pool, I had jumped into empty space.
I must have fallen on this occasion a considerable
distance, but I was caught in a deep snow-drift, so
that, although considerably shaken and bewildered
for the moment by what had happened, I was not seriously
hurt.
I have been enabled by various circumstances,
and by the help of those who followed my tracks before
the snow melted, to make out with tolerable accuracy
the course of my wanderings. Those who tracked
me say that, “If there was one part of the hill
more difficult and dangerous than another, that is
the line which Mr. Carr took.” When the
morning light first dawned, I could see that I was
walking along the side of a ravine of great depth,
and more than usually perpendicular sides; it was so
steep that I could not climb to the top of the ridge
and get out of it, and the snow was in such a very
loose, soft state, that I expected every moment it
would give way beneath me, and I should be precipitated
into the depths below. I had to walk with the
greatest care to prevent this; and I believe that
this was a very good thing for me, as it gave my mind
complete occupation, and kept me from flagging.
I could only go straight on, as I could not ascend,
and was afraid to descend. My method of progression
was more crawling than walking, as I had to drive my
hands deep into the snow, and clutch at tufts of grass
or heather, or any thing I could find beneath it,
to hold on by. I must have gone forward in this
way for an hour or two, when I found the ravine becoming
less steep, and I heard the sound of running water
very distinctly. Accordingly I thought I would
descend and try once more whether I could walk down
the stream, as this by its sound seemed a larger one,
and I thought it might have cut a way through the
drifts. I reached the bottom of the valley safely.
It appears to have been the valley immediately above
the Light Spout waterfall, and, trying to walk by
the stream, I tumbled over the first upper fall.
Hearing a noise of falling water, and seeing dimly
rocks all round me, I found it would not do to go forward
in this direction, so, having unconsciously gone to
the very edge of the lower cascade, where I must in
all probability have been killed had I fallen over,
I turned sharply up the hill again, going over the
rocks above, and coming down again by a very steep
place. Round and round this waterfall I seemed
to have climbed in every possible direction.
A man who had tracked me, and with whom I visited
the place a few weeks ago, said, “You seem to
have had a deal o’ work to do here, Sir,”
pointing to a small rocky space at the bottom of the
fall. I had imagined, while thus going round
and round as if on a tread mill, that I was walking
straight forward down the stream, and I suppose my
efforts to keep near the sound of the water misled
me. Though perfectly familiar with this part
of the Long Mynd, I was so blind at this time, and
everything looked so strange, that I did not in the
least recognise my position. Finding I did not
get on very well, I determined now to try whether
I could walk or crawl down the actual stream itself
where it had hollowed its way underneath the drifts
which overhung it, making a sort of low-arched tunnel,
which I thought worth trying. I soon found,
however, that this was quite impracticable, and that
if I went on I should either be suffocated or hopelessly
imbedded in the snow, and that then my utmost efforts
would fail to extricate me. It also occurred
to me somewhat painfully, that if I lost my life,
as I thought I inevitably must do now, my body would
not be found for days, or it might be weeks, if it
were buried deep in the mountain of snow at the bottom
of that valley; and I was anxious that what remained
of me might be found soon, and that the dreadful suspense,
which is worse than the most fearful certainty, might
thus be spared to all those who cared about my fate.
I was not, however, quite beat yet;
so, retracing my steps, I determined once more to
leave the stream and make for the higher ground.
But a new misfortune now befell me: I lost my
boots. They were strong laced boots, without
elastic sides, or any such weak points about them.
I had observed before that one was getting loose,
but was unable to do anything to it from the numbness
of my hands; and after struggling out of a deep drift
previous to reascending the hill, I found that I had
left this boot behind. There was nothing for
it but to go on without, and as my feet were perfectly
numbed from the cold, and devoid of feeling, I did
not experience any difficulty or pain on this account.
That boot was afterwards found on a ledge of rock
near the waterfall. I soon after lost the other
one, or rather, I should say, it came off, and I could
not get it on again, so I carried it in my hand some
time, but lost it in one of my many severe falls.
The fact of the loss of my boots has astonished all
those who have heard of it, and I believe has excited
more comment than any other part of my adventure.
I have even heard of its being a matter of fierce
dispute, on more than one occasion, whether laced boots
could come off in this way. They do not
seem to have become unlaced, as the laces were firmly
knotted, but had burst in the middle, and the whole
front of the boot had been stretched out of shape from
the strain put upon it whilst laboriously dragging
my feet out of deep drifts for so many hours together,
which I can only describe as acting upon the boots
like a steam-power boot-jack.
And so for hours I walked on in my
stockings without inconvenience. Even when I
trod upon gorse bushes, I did not feel it, as my feet
had become as insensible as my hands. It had
occurred to me now that I might be in the Carding
Mill valley, and that I would steer my course on that
supposition. It was fortunate that I did so,
for I was beginning to think that I could not now
hold out much longer, and was struggling in a part
where the drifts were up nearly to my neck, when I
heard what I had thought never to hear again the
blessed sound of human voices, children’s voices,
talking and laughing, and apparently sliding not very
far off. I called to them with all my might,
but judge of my dismay when sudden and total silence
took the place of the merry voices I had so lately
heard! I shouted again and again, and said that
I was lost, but there was no reply. It was a
bitter disappointment, something like that of the
sailor shipwrecked on a desert island, who sees a sail
approaching and thinks that he is saved, when as he
gazes the vessel shifts her course and disappears
on the horizon, dashing his hopes to the ground.
It appeared, as I learned afterwards, that these
children saw me, though I could not see them,
and ran away terrified at my unearthly aspect.
Doubtless the head of a man protruding from a deep
snow drift, crowned and bearded with ice like a ghastly
emblem of winter, was a sight to cause a panic among
children, and one cannot wonder that they ran off to
communicate the news that “there was the bogie
in the snow.” Happily, however, for the
bogie, he had noticed the direction from which these
voices came, and struggling forward again, I soon found
myself sufficiently near to the Carding Mill to recognise
the place, blind as I was. A little girl now
ventured to approach me, as, true to the instincts
of her nature, the idea dawned upon her that I was
no goblin of the mountains, no disagreeable thing
from a world beneath popped up through the snow, but
a real fellow-creature in distress. I spoke to
her and told her that I was the clergyman of Ratlinghope,
and had been lost in the snow on the hill all night.
As she did not answer at once, I suppose she was
taking a careful observation of me, for after a few
moments she said, “Why, you look like Mr. Carr
of Wolstaston.” “I am Mr. Carr,”
I replied; whereupon the boys, who had previously run
away, and, as I imagine, taken refuge behind the girl,
came forward and helped me on to the little hamlet,
only a few yards distant, where some half dozen cottages
are clustered together round the Carding Mill.
I was saved, at any rate, from immediate
peril, though I fully expected that serious illness
must follow from my violent exertions and long exposure.
I was saved at all events from the death of lonely
horror against which I had wrestled so many hours
in mortal conflict, and scarcely knew how to believe
that I was once more among my fellow-men, under a
kindly, hospitable roof. God’s hand had
led me thither. No wisdom or power of my own
could have availed for my deliverance, when once my
sight was so much gone. The Good Shepherd had
literally, in very deed, led the blind by a way that
he knew not to a refuge of safety and peace.
The good kind people at the Carding
Mill, you may be sure, soon gathered round me in sympathising
wonder, and I was quickly supplied with such comforts
as they could give. I told them that I had had
scarcely anything to eat since breakfast the day before
(as I had been too much hurried to eat my luncheon
before starting to Ratlinghope), and so tea and bread
and butter were at once provided. The former
was very grateful, but I could hardly eat the latter,
as all feeling of hunger had left me. The good
people were much shocked to find that I could not pick
up a piece of bread and butter for myself, as I could
neither feel it nor see it; I believe they thought
my sight was hopelessly gone. I was, however,
under no uneasiness myself on this score, as I was
perfectly familiar with snow blindness, having seen
cases of it in Switzerland, and knew that in all probability
my eyes would get quite right again in a week’s
time, as it turned out that they did. They also
discovered that the middle finger of my right hand
was terribly lacerated, and that the skin was completely
stripped off the back of it. This I knew to be
a much more serious affair, as the frost had evidently
got fast hold of it, and I thought it very likely
that I should lose it. This, however, seemed
a very trifling matter to me then. Had it been
my right arm I should have thought nothing of it,
after so marvellous an escape. I was provided
at the Carding Mill with a hat, boots, and dry stockings;
and having rested about a quarter of an hour, set
out again to Church Stretton, about a mile distant.
A man from the cottage came with me, and gave me
his arm, and with this assistance I accomplished the
walk with comparative ease. I was so anxious
to get home, that I almost felt as if I could have
walked the whole way, though I do not suppose that
I could really have done so, my home being rather
more than five miles off. Arrived at the town,
I sent my companion for medical assistance, and myself
made my way to the Crown Inn. I could discern
large objects sufficiently to find my way along the
street, though all was blurred and indistinct, and
the admission of light to my eyes was beginning to
cause me extreme pain. I ordered a fly immediately
to take me as far as possible on my road home.
No vehicle of any description had been along the
turnpike road that day, and it was very doubtful how
far a fly could go, so it was arranged that we should
be accompanied by a man on a saddle horse, that I
might ride when the fly could go no further, as I knew
that, under the most favourable circumstances, the
last mile and a half of the road to Wolstaston would
be inaccessible to wheels.
Of course my adventure excited great
interest at the Crown Hotel, when it was fully understood
what had happened to me. It was just two o’clock
in the afternoon when I reached that place, and as
I had left Ratlinghope at four o’clock on the
previous afternoon, I had been walking uninterruptedly
for twenty-two hours, excepting the quarter of an hour
I had rested at the Carding Mill. My good friends
at the hotel discovered that my clothes were very
wet, for they had been frozen before and were now
thawed, so I was dressed up in the landlord’s
garments. The effect must have been very ludicrous,
for he was a much stouter man than I was at any time,
and now I had shrunk away to nothing. It will
not therefore be wondered at that people when they
saw me declared they should not have known who I was.
The surgeon having come and dressed
my finger, and warned me to keep away from the fire
and hot water, and having prescribed some hot brandy
and water, I started in my fly on my homeward journey.
Very slow was our progress. We had taken spades
with us, and many times the driver and the man who
accompanied him had to dig a way for the fly to get
through. Most trying was the long delay thus
caused to a man who knew that in his own home he must
probably be reckoned among the dead; but there was
no help for it, and at last Leebotwood was reached,
the place where the lane to Wolstaston turned off
from the main road, and where I was to leave the fly,
and, as I hoped, ride home.
The Post Office is at Leebotwood,
and having given orders there that any letters coming
from my house should be stopped, I was helped on my
horse, and, accompanied by the man, began to ascend
the hill. I had not gone a hundred yards, when
it became evident that it would be impossible to ride
far, and that I should be obliged to walk again, so
the horse was sent back to Leebotwood by a man whom
we met, and I started again on my own feet.
Just at this time we met another man coming down over
the fields from Wolstaston. He had letters with
him to post; those letters were from my home.
They were to say that I had been lost in the snow
storm, that every effort had been made to find me,
that they had proved fruitless, and that there was
no hope left. I sent this messenger back again
pretty quickly, and told him to go home as fast as
he could and say I was coming. This news reached
the village about half an hour before I could get
up there myself, and as may be supposed there was great
rejoicing. So completely had all hope of my safety
been given up, that to my people it seemed almost
like a resurrection from the dead.
They had made the greatest efforts
to find me. Twice a party had gone up the hill
on the Sunday night to the limit of the enclosed ground,
and stayed there calling and shouting, till, as one
of them said to me, they felt that if they had stayed
there another ten minutes, they would have been frozen
to death. The second time they went up that night,
they actually got on to the open moorland some two
or three hundred yards, but here they were in imminent
danger of being lost themselves. One of them
indeed declared that he could not return, and would
have been lost had not his companions insisted on
his struggling back with them. Human effort
could do no more, and they made their toilsome way
home prostrated with fatigue.
It was a fearful moment, they tell
me, when the Rectory house was closed up for the night,
the shutters fastened, and curtains drawn, with the
fate of its master unknown. The helpless watchers
could only wait and count the weary hours, keeping
food hot for the wanderer, who they feared would never
return, and unable till the morning to plan any further
efforts for his rescue. The awful wind raged
on, sometimes assuming to the ears of the excited
listeners the sound of rolling wheels and horses’
feet, startling them into expectation, though they
knew that the tramp of an army would have fallen noiseless
on that depth of snow. Then again, it rose like
shrieks and wild calls of distress, and every now and
then would smite the house with a buffet, as though
it would level it with the ground.
The storm lulled at length, as the
hours went slowly by. Morning came and the men
prepared to resume their almost hopeless search once
more. They started, about twenty strong, armed
with spades and shovels, and determined first of all
to cut their way to Ratlinghope, thinking that perhaps
I had remained there all night. They worked with
all their might, but the snow was deeper than ever,
and their progress was laborious and very slow.
Though they had started as soon as it was light in
the morning, they did not reach Ratlinghope till noon,
and then their last hope was dashed to the ground,
for they heard that I had started the previous
afternoon, though pressed to remain in the village
for the night. Great was the consternation of
the Ratlinghope people when they heard the news.
They knew the hill well, and said with one consent,
“If Mr. Carr was on the Long Mynd last night,
he is a dead man.” This conviction too
was strengthened by the sad fact, that that very morning
the dead body of a man, whom we all knew well, had
been found in the road frozen to death, not more than
one hundred and fifty yards from a small hamlet in
the parish of Ratlinghope, known as “The Bridges.”
Poor Easthope, for such was his name, was a journeyman
shoemaker by trade. He owned a few ponies which
were on the hill, and he had been looking after these
on the Sunday. I suppose he was much exhausted
by this, but he had safely reached his daughter’s
house in the evening, which he subsequently left to
go to the place where he worked, no great distance
off. He was found, as I have said, the next
morning frozen to death on the turnpike road.
It is conjectured that he either sat down to rest
or fell down, and that he speedily became insensible.
I think this fact in itself is sufficient to prove
that, had I given way to the temptation to rest, I
too should have lost my life.
The searching party, reinforced by
most of the able-bodied men in Ratlinghope, beat that
part of the hill lying between Ratlinghope and Wolstaston
thoroughly, thinking that I must be somewhere in the
tract between the two places, never supposing that
I could have wandered as far away as I actually had
done. The fog was so thick that it was only by
keeping near to each other and shouting constantly
that this party was able to keep together. I
need not say that they failed to discover any trace
of me, and about three o’clock in the afternoon,
worn out and exhausted, they returned to the Rectory
with the worst tidings. “He must be dead,”
they said, “he must be dead; it is not
possible that any human creature could have lived
through such a night.” And it was upon
the receipt of these tidings that the letters were
sent off which I so fortunately succeeded in stopping.
Half-an-hour after, the news came that I was returning,
and in another half-hour I was at home. This
was between four and five o’clock in the afternoon,
rather more than twenty-seven hours from the time
I had left Wolstaston.
My friends tell me that had they not
known who it was, they would scarcely have recognised
me. Dressed in another man’s clothes,
exceedingly thin, with eyes fearfully bloodshot, and
fingers stiff and shrunken, the middle finger more
resembling a dead stick, they say, with the gray and
wrinkled bark on, than the living member of a human
body, this is scarcely to be wondered at. I
was glad to go to bed at once, and to have my feet
and hands well rubbed with snow. This, it should
be well known, is the only thing to be done in cases
of frost bite. Had I put them in hot water,
I should in all probability have lost my fingers and
toes; they would have sloughed off. I know of
several cases where this has happened; indeed, I heard
of one quite lately, for the gardener of a friend
of mine in Warwickshire had his hands frost-bitten
while throwing the snow off the roof of a house during
this last winter, and injudiciously putting them into
hot water, the result has been that he has lost the
ends of all his fingers, to the first joint.
In my case, I am thankful to say I knew better than
to do this, and by the use of cold water and continued
friction have succeeded in restoring my hands in a
great measure. They have still not nearly as
much sensation in them as before, but this will return
with time. During the last few weeks, gorse
pricks have been working out of my hands and feet and
legs by hundreds, though at first, from the numbness
of the skin, I was quite unconscious of them.
It is not to be wondered at that I should have picked
these up in great numbers whilst walking through the
gorse bushes without my boots, and clutching at them
as I fell in hopes of saving myself.
Such are the details of my “Night
in the Snow,” and my most wonderful preservation
through it and the following day. I trust that
no one who may chance to read these pages will ever
be placed in a similar position; but should it so
happen, I hope that the remembrance of my adventure
will occur to them; for surely it teaches, as plainly
as anything can, that even in the most adverse circumstances
no one need ever despair; and shows how an individual
of no unusual physical powers may, by God’s help,
resist the overwhelming temptation to sleep which is
usually so fatal to those who are lost in the snow.