PARIS, October, 1915.

In Artois we were “personally conducted.”  In a way, we were the guests of the war department; in any case, we tried to behave as such.  It was no more proper for us to see what we were not invited to see than to bring our own wine to another man’s dinner.

In Champagne it was entirely different.  I was alone with a car and a chauffeur and a blue slip of paper.  It permitted me to remain in a “certain place” inside the war zone for ten days.  I did not believe it was true.  I recalled other trips over the same roads a year before which finally led to the Cherche-Midi prison, and each time I showed the blue slip to the gendarmes I shivered.  But the gendarmes seemed satisfied, and as they permitted us to pass farther and farther into the forbidden land, the chauffeur began to treat me almost as an equal.  And so, with as little incident as one taxis from Madison Square to Central Park, we motored from Paris into the sound of the guns.

At the “certain place” the general was absent in the trenches, but the chief of staff asked what I most wanted to see.  It was as though the fairy godmother had given you one wish.  I chose Rheims, and to spend the night there.  The chief of staff waved a wand in the shape of a second piece of paper, and we were in Rheims.  To a colonel we presented the two slips of paper, and, in turn, he asked what was wanted.  A year before I had seen the cathedral when it was being bombarded, when it still was burning.  I asked if I might revisit it.

“And after that?” said the colonel.

It was much too good to be real.

I would wake and find myself again in Cherche-Midi prison.

Outside, the sounds of the guns were now very close.  They seemed to be just around the corner, on the roof of the next house.

“Of course, what I really want is to visit the first trench.”

It was like asking a Mason to reveal the mysteries of his order, a priest to tell the secrets of the confessional.  The colonel commanded the presence of Lieutenant Blank.  With alarm I awaited his coming.  Did a military prison yawn, and was he to act as my escort?  I had been too bold.  I should have asked to see only the third trench.

At the order the colonel gave, Lieutenant Blank expressed surprise But his colonel, with a shrug, as though ridding himself of all responsibility, showed the blue slip.  It was a pantomime, with which by repetition, we became familiar.  In turn each officer would express surprise; the other officer would shrug, point to the blue slip, and we would pass forward.

The cathedral did not long detain us.  Outside, for protection, it was boarded up, packed tightly in sand-bags; inside, it had been swept of broken glass, and the paintings, tapestries, and the carved images on the altars had been removed.  A professional sacristan spoke a set speech, telling me of things I had seen with my own eyes ­of burning rafters that spared the Gobelin tapestries, of the priceless glass trampled underfoot, of the dead and wounded Germans lying in the straw that had given the floor the look of a barn.  Now it is as empty of decoration as the Pennsylvania railroad-station in New York.  It is a beautiful shell waiting for the day to come when the candles will be relit, when the incense will toss before the altar, and the gray walls glow again with the colors of tapestries and paintings.  The windows only will not bloom as before.  The glass destroyed by the Emperor’s shells, all the king’s horses and all the king’s men cannot restore.

The professional guide, who is already so professional that he is exchanging German cartridges for tips, supplied a morbid detail of impossible bad taste.  Among the German wounded there was a major (I remember describing him a year ago as looking like a college professor) who, when the fire came, was one of these the priests could not save, and who was burned alive.  Marks on the gray surface of a pillar against which he reclined and grease spots on the stones of the floor are supposed to be evidences of his end, a torture brought upon him by the shells of his own people.  Mr. Kipling has written that there are many who “hope and pray these signs will be respected by our children’s children.”  Mr. Kipling’s hope shows an imperfect conception of the purposes of a cathedral.  It is a house dedicated to God, and on earth to peace and good-will among men.  It is not erected to teach generations of little children to gloat over the fact that an enemy, even a German officer, was by accident burned alive.

Personally, I feel the sooner those who introduced “frightfulness” to France, Belgium, and the coasts of England are hunted down and destroyed the better.  But the stone-mason should get to work, and remove those stains from the Rheims cathedral.  Instead, for our children’s children, would not a tablet to Edith Cavell be better, or one to the French priest, Abbe Thinot, who carried the wounded Germans from the burning cathedral, and who later, while carrying French wounded from the field of battle, was himself hit three times, and of his wounds died?

I hinted to the lieutenant that the cathedral would remain for some time, but that the trenches would soon be ploughed into turnip-beds.

So, we moved toward the trenches.  The officer commanding them lived in what he described as the deck of a battleship sunk underground.  It was a happy simile.  He had his conning-tower, in which, with a telescope through a slit in a steel plate, he could sweep the countryside.  He had a fire-control station, executive offices, wardroom, cook’s galley, his own cabin, equipped with telephones, electric lights, and running water.  There was a carpet on the floor, a gay coverlet on the four-poster bed, photographs on his dressing-table, and flowers.  All of these were buried deep underground.  A puzzling detail was a perfectly good brass lock and key on his door.  I asked if it were to keep out shells or burglars.  And he explained that the door with the lock in tact had been blown off its hinges in a house of which no part was now standing.  He had borrowed it, as he had borrowed everything else in the subterranean war-ship, from the near-by ruins.

He was an extremely light-hearted and courteous host, but he frowned suspiciously when he asked if I knew a correspondent named Senator Albert Beveridge.  I hastily repudiated Beveridge.  I knew him not, I said, as a correspondent, but as a politician who possibly had high hopes of the German vote.  “He dined with us,” said the colonel, “and then wrote against France.”  I suggested it was at their own risk if they welcomed those who already had been with the Germans, and who had been received by the German Emperor.  This is no war for neutrals.

Then began a walk of over a mile through an open drain.  The walls were of chalk as hard as flint.  Unlike the mud trenches in Artois, there were no slides to block the miniature canal.  It was as firm and compact as a whitewashed stone cell.  From the main drain on either side ran other drains, cul-de-sacs, cellars, trap-doors, and ambushes.  Overhead hung balls of barbed-wire that, should the French troops withdraw, could be dropped and so block the trench behind them.  If you raised your head they playfully snatched off your cap.  It was like ducking under innumerable bridges of live wires.

The drain opened at last into a wrecked town.  Its ruins were complete.  It made Pompeii look like a furnished flat.  The officer of the day joined us here, and to him the lieutenant resigned the post of guide.  My new host wore a steel helmet, and at his belt dangled a mask against gas.  He led us to the end of what had been a street, and which was now barricaded with huge timbers, steel doors, like those to a gambling house, intricate cat’s cradles of wire, and solid steel plates.

To go back seemed the only way open.  But the officer in the steel cap dived through a slit in the iron girders, and as he disappeared, beckoned.  I followed down a well that dropped straight into the very bowels of the earth.  It was very dark, and only crosspieces of wood offered a slippery footing.  Into the darkness, with hands pressed against the well, and with feet groping for the log steps, we tobogganed down, down, down.  We turned into a tunnel, and, by the slant of the ground, knew we were now mounting.  There was a square of sunshine, and we walked out, and into a graveyard.  It was like a dark change in a theatre.  The last scene had been the ruins of a town, a gate like those of the Middle Ages, studded with bolts, reinforced with steel plates, guarded by men-at-arms in steel casques, and then the dark change into a graveyard, with grass and growing flowers, gravel walks, and hedges.

The graves were old, the monuments and urns above them moss-covered, but one was quite new, and the cross above it said that it was the grave of a German aviator.  As they passed it the French officers saluted.  We entered a trench as straight as the letter Z. And at each twist and turn we were covered by an eye in a steel door.  An attacking party advancing would have had as much room in which to dodge that eye as in a bath-tub.  One man with his magazine rifle could have halted a dozen.  And when in the newspapers you read that one man has captured twenty prisoners, he probably was looking at them through the peep-hole in one of those steel doors.

We zigzagged into a cellar, and below the threshold of some one’s front door.  The trench led directly under it.  The house into which the door had opened was destroyed; possibly those who once had entered by it also were destroyed, and it now swung in air with men crawling like rats below it, its half-doors banging and groaning; the wind, with ghostly fingers, opening them to no one, closing them on nothing.  The trench wriggled through a garden, and we could see flung across the narrow strip of sky above us, the branch of an apple-tree, and with one shoulder brushed the severed roots of the same tree.  Then the trench led outward, and we passed beneath railroad tracks, the ties reposing on air, and supported by, instead of supporting, the iron rails.

We had been moving between garden walls, cellar walls; sometimes hidden by ruins, sometimes diving like moles into tunnels.  We remained on no one level, or for any time continued in any one direction.  It was entirely fantastic, entirely unreal.  It was like visiting a new race of beings, who turn day into night; who, like bats, molochs, and wolves, hide in caves and shun the sunlight.

By the ray of an electric torch we saw where these underground people store their food.  Where, against siege, are great casks of water, dungeons packed with ammunition, more dungeons, more ammunition.  We saw, always by the shifting, pointing finger of the electric torch, sleeping quarters underground, dressing stations for the wounded underground.  In niches at every turn were gas-extinguishers.  They were as many, as much as a matter of course, as fire-extinguishers in a modern hotel.  They were exactly like those machines advertised in seed catalogues for spraying fruit-trees.  They are worn on the back like a knapsack.  Through a short rubber hose a fluid attacks and dissipates the poison gases.

The sun set, and we proceeded in the light of a full moon.  It needed only this to give to our journey the unreality of a nightmare.  Long since I had lost all sense of direction.  It was not only a maze and labyrinth, but it held to no level.  At times, concealed by walls of chalk, we walked erect, and then, like woodchucks, dived into earthen burrows.  For a long distance we crawled, bending double through a tunnel.  At intervals lamps, as yet unlit, protruded from either side, and to warn us of these from the darkness a voice would call, “attention a gauche,” “attention a droite.”  The air grew foul and the pressure on the ear-drums like that of the subway under the North River.  We came out and drew deep breaths as though we had been long under water.

We were in the first trench.  It was, at places, from three hundred to forty yards distant from the Germans.  No one spoke, or only in whispers.  The moonlight turned the men at arms into ghosts.  Their silence added to their unreality.  I felt like Rip Van Winkle hemmed in by the goblin crew of Hendrik Hudson.  From somewhere near us, above or below, to the right or left the “seventy-fives,” as though aroused by the moon, began like terriers to bark viciously.  The officer in the steel casque paused to listen, fixed their position, and named them.  How he knew where they were, how he knew where he was himself, was all part of the mystery.  Rats, jet black in the moonlight, scurried across the open places, scrambled over our feet, ran boldly between them.  We had scared them, perhaps, but not half so badly as they scared me.

We pushed on past sentinels, motionless, silent, fatefully awake.  The moonlight had turned their blue uniforms white and flashed on their steel helmets.  They were like men in armor, and so still that only when you brushed against them, cautiously as men change places in a canoe, did you feel they were alive.  At times, one of them thinking something in the gardens of barb-wire had moved, would loosen his rifle, and there would be a flame and flare of red, and then again silence, the silence of the hunter stalking a wild beast, of the officer of the law, gun in hand, waiting for the breathing of the burglar to betray his presence.

The next morning I called to make my compliments to General Franchet d’Esperay.  He was a splendid person ­as alert as a steel lance.  He demanded what I had seen.

“Nothing!” he protested.  “You have seen nothing.  When you return from Serbia, come to Champagne again and I myself will show you something of interest.”

I am curious to see what he calls “something of interest.”

“I wonder what’s happening in Buffalo?”

There promised to be a story for some one to write a year after the war.  It would tell how quickly Champagne recovered from the invasion of the Germans.  But one need not wait until after the war.  The story can be written now.

We know that the enemy was thrown back across the Aisne.

We know that the enemy drove the French and English before him until at the Forest of Montmorency, the Hun was within ten and at Claye within fifteen miles of Paris.

But to-day, by any outward evidence, he would have a hard time to prove it.  And that is not because when he advanced he was careful not to tramp on the grass or to pick the flowers.  He did not obey even the warnings to automobilists:  “Attention les enfants!”

On the contrary, as he came, he threw before him thousands of tons of steel and iron.  Like a cyclone he uprooted trees, unroofed houses; like a tidal wave he excavated roads that had been built by the Romans, swept away walls, and broke the backs of stone bridges that for hundreds of years had held their own against swollen rivers.

 “He was a splendid person, as alert as a steel lance.”]

A year ago I followed the German in his retreat from Claye through Meaux, Chateau Thierry to Soissons, where, on the east bank of the Aisne, I watched the French artillery shell his guns on the hills opposite.  The French then were hot upon his heels.  In one place they had not had time to remove even their own dead, and to avoid the bodies in the open road the car had to twist and turn.

Yesterday, coming back to Paris from the trenches that guard Rheims, I covered the same road.  But it was not the same.  It seemed that I must surely have lost the way.  Only the iron signs at the crossroads, and the map used the year before and scarred with my own pencil marks, were evidences that again I was following mile by mile and foot by foot the route of that swift advance and riotous retreat.

A year before the signs of the retreat were the road itself, the houses facing it, and a devastated countryside.  You knew then, that, of these signs, some would at once be effaced.  They had to be effaced, for they were polluting the air.  But until the villagers returned to their homes, or to what remained of their homes, the bloated carcasses of horses blocked the road, the bodies of German soldiers, in death mercifully unlike anything human and as unreal as fallen scarecrows, sprawled in the fields.

But while you knew these signs of the German raid would be removed, other signs were scars that you thought would be long in healing.  These were the stone arches and buttresses of the bridges, dynamited and dumped into the mud of the Marne and Ourcq, chateaux and villas with the roof torn away as deftly as with one hand you could rip off the lid of a cigar-box, or with a wall blown in, or out, in either case exposing indecently the owner’s bedroom, his wife’s boudoir, the children’s nursery.

Other signs of the German were villages with houses wrecked, the humble shops sacked, garden walls levelled, fields of beets and turnips uprooted by his shells, or where he had snatched sleep in the trampled mud, strewn with demolished haystacks, vast trees split clean in half as though by lightning, or with nothing remaining but the splintered stump.  That was the picture of the roads and countryside in the triangle of Soissons, Rheims, and Meaux, as it was a year ago.

And I expected to see the wake of that great retreat still marked by ruins and devastation.

But I had not sufficiently trusted to the indomitable spirit of the French, in their intolerance of waste, their fierce, yet ordered energy.

To-day the fields are cultivated up to the very butts of the French batteries.  They are being put to bed, and tucked in for the long winter sleep.  For miles the furrows stretch over the fields in unbroken lines.  Ploughs, not shells, have drawn them.

They are gray with fertilizers, strewn with manure; the swiftly dug trenches of a year ago have given way to the peaked mounds in which turnips wait transplanting.  Where there were vast stretches of mud, scarred with intrenchments, with the wheel tracks of guns and ammunition carts, with stale, ill-smelling straw, the carcasses of oxen and horses, and the bodies of men, is now a smiling landscape, with miles of growing grain, green vegetables, green turf.

In Champagne the French spirit and nature, working together, have wiped out the signs of the German raid.  It is as though it had never been.  You begin to believe it was only a bad dream, an old wife’s tale to frighten children.

The car moved slowly, but, look no matter how carefully, it was most difficult to find the landfalls I remembered.

Near Feret Milton there was a chateau with a lawn that ran to meet the Paris road.  It had been used as a German emergency hospital, and previously by them as an outpost.  The long windows to the terrace had been wrecked, the terrace was piled high with blood-stained uniforms, hundreds of boots had been tossed from an upper story that had been used as an operating-room, and mixed with these evidences of disaster were monuments of empty champagne-bottles.

That was the picture I remembered.  Yesterday, like a mantle of moss, the lawn swept to the road, the long windows had been replaced and hung with yellow silk, and, on the terrace, where I had seen the blood-stained uniforms, a small boy, maybe the son and heir of the chateau, with hair flying and bare legs showing, was joyfully riding a tricycle.

Neufchelles I remembered as a village completely wrecked and inhabited only by a very old man, and a cat, that, as though for company, stalked behind him.

But to-day Neufchelles is a thriving, contented, commonplace town.  Splashes of plaster, less weather-stained than the plaster surrounding them, are the only signs remaining of the explosive shells.  The stone-mason and the plasterer have obliterated the work of the guns, the tiny shops have been refilled, the tide of life has flowed back, and in the streets the bareheaded women, their shoulders wrapped in black woollen shawls, gather to gossip, or, with knitting in hand, call to each other from the doorways.

There was the stable of a large villa in which I had seen five fine riding-horses lying on the stones, each with a bullet-hole over his temple.  In the retreat they had been destroyed to prevent the French using them as remounts.

This time, as we passed the same stable-yard, fresh horses looked over the half-doors, the lofts were stuffed with hay; in the corner, against the coming of winter, were piled many cords of wood, and rival chanticleers, with their harems, were stalking proudly around the stable-yard, pecking at the scattered grain.  It was a picture of comfort and content.  It continued like that all the way.

Even the giant poplars that line the road for four miles out of Meaux to the west, and that had been split and shattered, are now covered with autumn foliage, the scars are overgrown and by doctor nature the raw spots have been cauterized and have healed.

The stone bridges, that at Meaux and beyond the Chateau Thierry sprawled in the river, again have been reared in air.  People have already forgotten that a year ago to reach Soissons from Meaux the broken bridges forced them to make a detour of fifty miles.

The lesson of it is that the French people have no time to waste upon post mortems.  With us, fifty years after the event, there are those who still talk of Sherman’s raid through Columbia, who are so old that they hum hymns of hate about it.  How much wiser, how much more proud, is the village of Neufchelles!

Not fifty, but only one year has passed since the Germans wrecked Neufchelles, and already it has been rebuilt and repopulated ­not after the war has for half a century been at an end, but while war still endures, while it is but twenty miles distant!  What better could illustrate the spirit of France or better foretell her final victory?