ATHENS, November, 1915.

At home we talk glibly of a world war.  But beyond speculating in munitions and as to how many Americans will be killed by the next submarine, and how many notes the President will write about it, we hardly appreciate that this actually is a war of the world, that all over the globe, every ship of state, even though it may be trying to steer a straight course, is being violently rocked by it.  Even the individual, as he moves from country to country, is rocked by it, not violently, but continuously.  It is in loss of time and money he feels it most.  And as he travels, he learns, as he cannot learn from a map, how far-reaching are the ramifications of this war, in how many different ways it affects every one.  He soon comes to accept whatever happens as directly due to the war ­even when the deck steward tells him he cannot play shuffle-board because, owing to the war, there is no chalk.

In times of peace to get to this city from Paris did not require more than six days, but now, owing to the war, in making the distance we wasted fifteen.  That is not counting the time in Paris required by the police to issue the passport, without which no one can leave France.  At the prefecture of police I found a line of people ­French, Italians, Americans, English ­in columns of four and winding through gloomy halls, down dark stairways, and out into the street.  I took one look at the line and fled to Mr. Thackara, our consul-general, and, thanks to him, was not more than an hour in obtaining my laisser-passer.  The police assured me I might consider myself fortunate, as the time they usually spent in preparing a passport was two days.  It was still necessary to obtain a vise from the Italian consulate permitting me to enter Italy, from the Greek consulate to enter Greece, and, as my American passport said nothing of Serbia, from Mr. Thackara two more vises, one to get out of France, and another to invade Serbia.  Thanks to the war, in obtaining all these autographs two more days were wasted.  In peace times one had only to go to Cook’s and buy a ticket.  In those days there was no more delay than in reserving a seat for the theatre.

War followed us south.  The windows of the wagon-lit were plastered with warnings to be careful, to talk to no strangers; that the enemy was listening.  War had invaded even Aix-les-Bains, most lovely of summer pleasure-grounds.  As we passed, it was wrapped in snow; the Cat’s Tooth, that towers between Aixe and Chambéry, and that lifts into the sky a great cross two hundred feet in height, was all white, the pine-trees around the lake were white, the streets were white, the Casino des Fleurs, the Cercle, the hotels.  And above each of them, where once was only good music, good wines, beautiful flowers, and baccarat, now droop innumerable Red Cross flags.  Against the snow-covered hills they were like little splashes of blood.

War followed us into Italy.  But from the war as one finds it in England and France it differed.  Perhaps we were too far west, but except for the field uniforms of green and the new scabbards of gun-metal, and, at Turin, four aeroplanes in the air at the same time, you might not have known that Italy was one of the Allies.  For one thing, you saw no wounded.  Again, perhaps, it was because we were too far south and west, and that the fighting in Tyrol is concentrated.  But Bordeaux is farther from the battle-line of France than is Naples from the Italian front, and the multitudes of wounded in Bordeaux, the multitudes of women in black in Bordeaux, make one of the most appalling, most significant pictures of this war.  In two days in Naples I did not see one wounded man.  But I saw many Germans and German signs, and no one had scratched Mumm off the wine-card.  A country that is one of the Allies, and yet not at war with Germany, cannot be taken very seriously.  Indeed, in England the War Office staff speak of the Italian communiques as the “weather reports.”

In Naples the foreigners accuse Italy of running with the hare and the hounds.  They asked what is her object in keeping on friendly terms with the bitterest enemy of the Allies.  Is there an understanding that after the war she and Germany will together carve slices off of Austria?  Whatever her ulterior object may be, her present war spirit does not impress the visitor.  It is not the spirit of France and England.  One man said to me:  “Why can’t you keep the Italian-Americans in America?  Over there they earn money, and send millions of it to Italy.  When they come here to fight, not only that money stops, but we have to feed and pay them.”

It did not sound grateful.  Nor as though Italy were seriously at war.  You do not find France and England, or Germany, grudging the man who returns to fight for his country his rations and pay.  And Italy pays her soldiers five cents a day.  Many of the reservists and volunteers from America who answered the call to arms are bitterly disappointed.  It was their hope to be led at once to the firing-line.  Instead, after six months, they are still in camp.  The families some brought with them are in great need.  They are not used to living on five cents a day.  An Italian told me the heaviest drain upon the war-relief funds came from the families of these Italian-Americans, stranded in their own country.  He also told me his chief duty was to meet them on their arrival.

“But haven’t they money when they arrive from America?” I asked.

“That’s it,” he said naively.  “I’m at the wharf to keep their countrymen from robbing them of it.”

At present in Europe you cannot take gold out of any country that is at war.  As a result, gold is less valuable than paper, and when I exchanged my double-eagles for paper I lost.

On the advice of the wisest young banker in France I changed, again at a loss, the French paper into Bank of England notes.  But when I arrived in Salonika I found that with the Greeks English bank-notes were about as popular as English troops, and that had I changed my American gold into American notes, as was my plan, I would have been passing rich.  That is what comes of associating with bankers.

At the Italian frontier, a French gentleman had come to the door of the compartment, raised his hat to the inmates, and asked if we had any gold.  Forewarned, we had not; and, taking our word for it, he again raised his hat and disappeared.  But, on leaving Naples, it was not like that.  In these piping times of war your baggage is examined when you depart as well as when you arrive.  You get it coming and going.  But the Greek steamer was to weigh anchor at noon, and at noon all the port officials were at dejeuner; so, sooner than wait a week for another boat, the passengers went on board and carried their bags with them.  It was unpardonable.  It was an affront the port officials could not brook.  They had been disregarded.  Their dignity had been flouted.  What was worse, they had not been tipped.  Into the dining-saloon of the Greek steamer, where we were at luncheon, they burst like Barbary pirates.  They shrieked, they yelled.  Nobody knew who they were, or what they wanted.  Nor did they enlighten us.  They only beat upon the tables, clanked their swords, and spoiled our lunch.  Why we were abused, or of what we were accused, we could not determine.  We vaguely recognized our names, and stood up, and, while they continued to beat upon the tables, a Greek steward explained they wanted our gold.  I showed them my bank-notes, and was allowed to return to my garlic and veal.  But the English cigarette king, who each week sends some millions of cigarettes to the Tommies in the trenches, proposed to make a test case of it.

“I have on me,” he whispered, “four English sovereigns.  I am not taking them out of Italy, because until they crossed the border in my pocket, they were not in Italy, and as I am now leaving Italy, one might say they have never been in Italy.  It’s as though they were in bond.  I am a British subject, and this is not Italian, but British, gold.  I shall refuse to surrender my four sovereigns.  I will make it a test case.”

The untipped port officials were still jangling their swords, so I advised the cigarette king to turn in his gold.  Even a Greek steamer is better than an Italian jail.

“I will make of it a test case,” he repeated.

“Let George do it,” I suggested.

At that moment, in the presence of all the passengers, they were searching the person of another British subject, and an Ally.  He was one of Lady Paget’s units.  He was in uniform, and, as they ran itching fingers over his body, he turned crimson, and the rest of us, pretending not to witness his humiliation, ate ravenously of goat’s cheese.

The cigarette king, breathing defiance, repeated:  “I will make of it a test case.”

“Better let George do it,” I urged.

And when his name was called, a name that is as well known from Kavalla to Smyrna in tobacco-fields, sweetmeat shops, palaces, and mosques, as at the Ritz and the Gaiety, the cigarette king wisely accepted for his four sovereigns Italian lire.  At their rate of exchange, too.

Later, off Capri, he asked:  “When you advised me to let George make a test case of it, to which of our fellow passengers did you refer?”

In the morning the Adriaticus picked up the landfall of Messina, but, instead of making fast to the quay, anchored her length from it.  This appeared to be a port regulation.  It enables the boatman to earn a living by charging passengers two francs for a round trip of fifty yards.  As the wrecked city seems to be populated only by boatmen, rowing passengers ashore is the chief industry.

The stricken seaport looks as though as recently as last week the German army had visited it.  In France, although war still continues, towns wrecked by the Germans are already rebuilt.  But Messina, after four years of peace, is still a ruin.  But little effort has been made to restore it.  The post-cards that were printed at the moment of the earthquake show her exactly as she is to-day.  With, in the streets, no sign of life, with the inhabitants standing idle along the quay, shivering in the rain and snow, with for a background crumbling walls, gaping cellars, and hills buried under acres of fallen masonry, the picture was one of terrible desolation, of neglect and inefficiency.  The only structures that had obviously been erected since the earthquake were the “ready-to-wear” shacks sent as a stop-gap from America.  One should not look critically at a gift-house, but they are certainly very ugly.  In Italy, where every spot is a “location” for moving-pictures, where the street corners are backgrounds for lovers’ trysts and assassinations, where even poverty is picturesque, and each landscape “composes” into a beautiful and wondrous painting, the zinc shacks, in rigid lines, like the barracks of a mining-camp, came as a shock.

Sympathetic Americans sent them as only a temporary shelter until Messina rose again.  But it was explained, as there is no rent to pay, the Italians, instead of rebuilding, prefer to inhabit the ready-to-wear houses.  How many tourists the mere view of them will drive away no one can guess.

People who linger in Naples, and by train to Reggio join the boat at Messina, never admit that they followed that route to avoid being seasick.  Seasickness is an illness of which no one ever boasts.  He may take pride in saying:  “I’ve an awful cold!” or “I’ve such a headache I can’t see!” and will expect you to feel sorry.  But he knows, no matter how horribly he suffers from mal de mer, he will receive no sympathy.  In a Puck and Punch way he will be merely comic.  So, the passengers who come over the side at Messina always have an excuse other than that they were dodging the sea.  It is usually that they lost their luggage at Naples and had to search for it.  As the Italian railroads, which are operated by the government, always lose your luggage, it is an admirable excuse.  So, also, is the one that you delayed in order to visit the ruins of Pompeii.  The number of people who have visited Pompeii solely because the Bay of Naples was in an ugly mood will never be counted.

Among those who joined at Messina were the French princess, who talked American much too well to be French, and French far too well to be an American, two military attaches, the King’s messenger, and the Armenian, who was by profession an olive merchant, and by choice a manufacturer and purveyor of rumors.  He was at once given an opportunity to exhibit his genius.  The Italians held up our ship, and would not explain why.  So the rumor man explained.  It was because Greece had joined the Germans, and Italy had made a prize of her.  Ten minutes later, he said Greece had joined the Allies, and the Italians were holding our ship until they could obtain a convoy of torpedo-boats.  Then it was because two submarines were waiting for us outside the harbor.  Later, it was because the Allies had blockaded Greece, and our Greek captain would not proceed, not because he was detained by Italians, but by fear.

Every time the rumor man appeared in the door of the smoking-room he was welcomed with ironic cheers.  But he was not discouraged.  He would go outside and stand in the rain while he hatched a new rumor, and then, in great excitement, dash back to share it.  War levels all ranks, and the passengers gathered in the smoking-room playing solitaire, sipping muddy Turkish coffee, and discussing the war in seven languages, and everybody smoked ­especially the women.  Finally the military attaches, Sir Thomas Cunningham and Lieutenant Boulanger, put on the uniforms of their respective countries and were rowed ashore to protest.  The rest of us paced the snow-swept decks and gazed gloomily at the wrecked city.  Out of the fog a boat brought two Sisters of the Poor, wrapped in the black cloaks of their order.  They were petitioners for the poor of Messina, and everybody in the smoking-room gave them a franc.  Because one of them was Irish and because it was her fate to live in Messina, I gave her ten francs.  Meaning to be amiable, she said:  “Ah, it takes the English to be generous!”

I said I was Irish.

The King’s messenger looked up from his solitaire and, also wishing to be amiable, asked:  “What’s the difference?”

The Irish sister answered him.

“Nine francs,” she said.

After we had been prisoners of war for twenty-four hours John Bass of the Chicago Daily News suggested that if we remained longer at Messina our papers would say we thought the earthquake was news, and had stopped to write a story about it.  So, we sent a telegram to our consul.

The American consul nearest was George Emerson Haven at Catania, by train three hours distant.  We told him for twenty-four hours we had been prisoners, and that unless we were set free he was to declare war on Italy.  The telegram was written not for the consul to read, but for the benefit of the port authorities.  We hoped it might impress them.  We certainly never supposed they would permit our ultimatum to reach Mr. Haven.  In any case, the ship was allowed to depart.  But whether the commandant of the port was alarmed by our declaration of war, or the unusual spectacle of the British attache, “Tommy” Cunningham, in khaki while three hundred miles distant from any firing-line, we will never know. But the rumor man knew, and explained.

“We had been delayed,” he said, “because Italy had declared war on Greece, and did not want the food on board our ship to enter that country.”

The cigarette king told him if the food on board was the same food we had been eating, to bring it into any country was a proper cause for war.

At noon we passed safely between Scylla and Charybdis, and the following morning were in Athens.