It happened one Sunday morning in
June that a swarm of bees issued from a hive in a
cottage garden near Okebourne church. The queen
at first took up her position in an elm tree just
outside the churchyard, where a large cluster of bees
quickly depended from a bough. Being at a great
height the cottager could not take them, and, anxious
not to lose the swarm, he resorted to the ancient
expedient of rattling fire-tongs and shovel together
in order to attract them by the clatter. The
discordant banging of the fire-irons resounded in the
church, the doors being open to admit the summer air;
and the noise became so uproarious that the clerk
presently, at a sign from the rector, went out to
stop it, for the congregation were in a grin.
He did stop it, the cottager desisting with much reluctance;
but, as if to revenge the bee-master’s wrongs,
in the course of the day the swarm, quitting the elm,
entered the church and occupied a post in the roof.
After a while it was found that the
swarm had finally settled there, and were proceeding
to build combs and lay in a store of honey. The
bees, indeed, became such a terror to nervous people,
buzzing without ceremony over their heads as they
stood up to sing, and caused such a commotion and
buffeting with Prayer-books and fans and handkerchiefs,
that ultimately the congregation were compelled to
abandon their pews. All efforts to dislodge the
bees proving for the time ineffectual, the rector
had a temporary reading-desk erected in the porch,
and there held the service, the congregation sitting
on chairs and forms in the yard, and some on the stone
tombs, and even on the sward under the shade of the
yew tree.
In the warm dry hay-making weather
this open-air worship was very pleasant, the flowers
in the grass and the roses in the little plots about
the tombs giving colour and sweet odours, while the
swallows glided gracefully overhead and sometimes
a blackbird whistled. The bees, moreover, interfered
with the baptisms, and even caused several marriages
to be postponed. Inside the porch was a recess
where the women left their pattens in winter, instead
of clattering iron-shod down the aisle.
Okebourne village was built in an
irregular way on both sides of a steep coombe, just
at the verge of the hills, and about a mile from the
Chace; indeed, the outlying cottages bordered the park
wall. The most melancholy object in the place
was the ruins of a windmill; the sails and arms had
long disappeared, but the wooden walls, black and
rotting, remained. The windmill had its genius,
its human representative — a mere wreck,
like itself, of olden times. There never was
a face so battered by wind and weather as that of old
Peter, the owner of the ruin. His eyes were so
light a grey as to appear all but colourless.
He wore a smock-frock the hue of dirt itself, and his
hands were ever in his pockets as he walked through
rain and snow beside his cart, hauling flints from
the pits upon the Downs.
If the history of the cottage-folk
is inquired into it will often be found that they
have descended from well-to-do positions in life — not
from extravagance or crime, or any remarkable piece
of folly, but simply from a long-continued process
of muddling away money. When the windmill was
new, Peter’s forefathers had been, for village
people well off. The family had never done anything
to bring themselves into disgrace; they had never
speculated; but their money had been gradually muddled
away, leaving the last little better than a labourer.
To see him crawling along the road by his load of flints,
stooping forward, hands in pocket, and then to glance
at the distant windmill, likewise broken down, the
roof open, and the rain and winds rushing through
it, was a pitiful spectacle. For that old building
represented the loss of hope and contentment in life
as much as any once lordly castle whose battlements
are now visited only by the jackdaw. The family
had, as it were, foundered and gone down.
How they got the stray cattle into
the pound it is difficult to imagine; for the gate
was very narrow, and neither bullocks nor horses like
being driven into a box. The copings of the wall
on one side had been pushed over, and lay in a thick
growth of nettles: this, almost the last of old
village institutions, was, too, going by degrees to
destruction.
Every hamlet used to have its representative
fighting-man — often more than one — who
visited the neighbouring villages on the feast days,
when there was a good deal of liquor flowing, to vaunt
of their prowess before the local champions.
These quickly gathered, and after due interchange
of speeches not unlike the heroes of Homer, who harangue
each other ere they hurl the spear, engaged in conflict
dire. There was a regular feud for many years
between the Okebourne men and the Clipstone ‘chaps;’
and never did the stalwart labourers of those two
villages meet without falling to fisticuffs with right
goodwill. Nor did they like each other at all
the worse, and after the battle drank deeply from
the same quart cups. Had these encounters found
an historian to put them upon record, they would have
read something like the wars (without the bloodshed)
between the little Greek cities, whose population
scarcely exceeded that of a village, and between which
and our old villages there exists a certain similarity.
A simplicity of sentiment, an unconsciousness as it
were of themselves, strong local attachments and hatreds,
these they had in common, and the Okebourne and Clipstone
men thwacked and banged each other’s broad chests
in true antique style.
Hilary said that when he was a boy
almost all the cottages in the place had a man or
woman living in them who had attained to extreme old
age. He reckoned up cottage after cottage to me
in which he had known old folk up to and over eighty
years of age. Of late the old people seemed to
have somehow died out: there were not nearly so
many now.
Okebourne Wick, a little hamlet of
fifteen or twenty scattered houses, was not more than
half a mile from Lucketts’ Place; on the Overboro’
road, which passed it, was a pleasant roadside inn,
where, under the sign of The Sun, very good ale was
sold. Most of the farmers dropped in there now
and then, not so much for a glass as a gossip, and
no one from the neighbouring villages or from Overboro’
town ever drove past without stopping. In the
‘tap’ of an evening you might see the
labourers playing at ‘chuck-board,’ which
consists in casting a small square piece of lead on
to certain marked divisions of a shallow tray-like
box placed on the trestle-table. The lead, being
heavy, would stay where it fell; the rules I do not
know, but the scene reminded me of the tric-trac
contests depicted by the old Dutch painters.
Young Aaron was very clever at it.
He pottered round the inn of an evening and Saturday
afternoons, doing odd jobs in the cellar with the
barrels; for your true toping spirit loves to knock
the hoops and to work about the cask, and carry the
jugs in answer to the cry for some more ’tangle-legs’ — for
thus they called the strong beer. Sometimes a
labourer would toast his cheese on a fork in the flame
of the candle. In the old days, before folk got
so choice of food and delicate of palate, there really
seemed no limit to the strange things they ate.
Before the railways were made, herds of cattle had
of course to travel the roads, and often came great
distances. The drovers were at the same time
the hardiest and the roughest of men in that rough
and hardy time. As night came on, after seeing
their herd safe in a field, they naturally ate their
supper at the adjacent inn. Then sometimes, as
a dainty treat with which to finish his meal, a drover
would call for a biscuit, large and hard, as broad
as his hand, and, taking the tallow candle, proceed
to drip the grease on it till it was well larded and
soaked with the melted fat.
At that date, before the Government
stamp had been removed from newspapers, the roadside
inn was the centre and focus of all intelligence.
When the first railway was constructed up in the North
the Okebourne folk, like the rest of the world, were
with good reason extremely curious about this wonderful
invention, and questioned every passer-by eagerly
for information. But no one could describe it,
till at last a man, born in the village, but who had
been away for some years soldiering, returned to his
native place. He had been serving in Canada and
came through Liverpool, and thus saw the marvel of
the age. At the Sun the folk in the evening crowded
round him, and insisted upon knowing what a steam-engine
was like. He did his best to describe it, but
in vain; they wanted a familiar illustration, and could
not be satisfied till the soldier, by a happy inspiration,
said the only thing to which he could compare a locomotive
was a great cannon on a timber-carriage. To us
who are so accustomed to railways it seems a singular
idea; but, upon reflection, it was not so inapt, considering
that the audience had seen or heard something of cannons,
and were well acquainted with timber-carriages.
The soldier wished to convey the notion of a barrel
or boiler mounted on wheels.
They kept up the institution of the
parish constable, as separate and distinct from the
policeman, till very recently at Okebourne, though
it seems to have lapsed long since in many country
places. One year Hilary, with much shrugging
of shoulders, was forced into the office; and during
his term there was a terrible set-to between two tribes
of gipsies in the Overboro’ road. They
fought like tigers, making the lovely summer day hideous
with their cries and shrieks — the women,
the fiercer by far, tearing each other’s hair.
One fiendish creature drew her scissors, and, using
them like a stiletto, drove the sharp point into a
sister ‘gip’s’ head.
‘Where’s the constable?’
was the cry. Messengers rushed to Lucketts’
Place; the barn, the sheds, the hayfield, all were
searched in vain — Hilary had quite disappeared.
At the very first sound he had slipped away to look
at some cattle in Chequer’s Piece, the very last
and outlying field of the farms, full a mile away,
and when the messengers got to Chequer’s Piece
of course he was up on the Down. So much for
the parish constable’s office — an office
the farmers shirked whenever they could, and would
not put in force when compelled to accept it.
How could a resident willingly go
into a neighbour’s cottage and arrest him without
malice and scandal being engendered? If he did
his duty he was abused; if he did not do it, it was
hinted that he favoured the offender. As for
the ‘gip’ who was stabbed, nothing more
was heard of it; she ‘traipsed’ off with
the rest.
Sometimes when the ‘tangle-legs’
got up into their heads the labourers felt an inclination
to resume the ancient practices of their fore-fathers.
Then you might see a couple facing each other in the
doorway, each with his mug in one hand, and the other
clenched, flourishing their knuckles. ‘Thee
hit I.’ ‘Thee come out in th’
road and I’ll let thee knaw.’ The
one knew very well that the other dared not strike
him in the house, and the other felt certain that,
however entreated, nothing would induce his opponent
to accept the invitation and ‘come out into
th’ road.’
The shadows of the elm have so far
to fall that they become enlarged and lose the edge
upon reaching the ground. I noticed this one
moonlight night in early June while sitting on a stile
where the footpath opened on the Overboro’ road.
Presently I heard voices, and immediately afterwards
a group came round the curve of the highway.
There were three cottage women, each with a basket
and several packages; having doubtless been into Overboro’
town shopping, for it was Saturday. They walked
together in a row; and in front of them, about five
yards ahead, came a burly labourer of the same party,
carrying in his arms a large clock.
He had taken too much ale, and staggered
as he walked, two steps aside to one forward, and
indeed could hardly keep upright. His efforts
to save himself and the clock from destruction led
to some singular flexures of the body, and his
feet traced a maze as he advanced, hugging the clock
to his chest. The task was too much for his over-taxed
patience: just opposite the stile he stood still,
held his load high over his head, and shouting, ‘Dang
th’ clock!’ hurled it with all his force
thirty feet against the mound, at the same time dropping
a-sprawl. The women, without the least excitement
or surprise, quietly endeavoured to assist him up;
and, as he resisted, one of them remarked in the driest
matter-of-fact tone, ’Ourn be just like un — as
contrary as the wind.’ She alluded to her
own husband.
When I mentioned this incident afterwards
to Mrs. Luckett, she said the troubles the cottage
women underwent on account of the ‘beer’
were past belief. One woman who did some work
at the farmhouse kept her cottage entirely by her
own exertions; her husband doing nothing but drink.
He took her money from her by force, nor could she
hide it anywhere but what he would hunt it out.
At last in despair she dropped the silver in the jug
on the wash-hand basin, and had the satisfaction of
seeing him turn everything topsy-turvy in a vain attempt
to find it. As he never washed, it never occurred
to him to look in the water-jug.
The cottage women when they went into
Overboro’ shopping, she said, were the despair
of the drapers. A woman, with two or three more
to chorus her sentiments, would go into a shop and
examine half-a-dozen dress fabrics, rubbing each between
her work-hardened fingers and thumb till the shopkeeper
winced, expecting to see it torn. After trying
several and getting the counter covered she would push
them aside, contemptuously remarking, ’I don’t
like this yer shallygallee (flimsy) stuff. Haven’t’ee
got any gingham tackle?’ Whereat the poor draper
would cast down a fresh roll of stoutest material with
the reply: ‘Here, ma’am. Here’s
something that will wear like pin-wire.’
This did better, but was declared to be ‘gallus
dear.’
Even within recent years, now and
then a servant-girl upon entering service at the farmhouse
would refuse to touch butcher’s meat. She
had never tasted anything but bacon at home, and could
only be persuaded to eat fresh meat with difficulty,
being afraid she should not like it. One girl
who came from a lonely cottage in a distant ‘coombe-bottom’
of the Downs was observed never to write home or attempt
to communicate with her parents. She said it was
of no use; no postman came near, and the letters they
wrote or the letters written to them never reached
their destination. ‘Coombe-bottom’
is a curious duplication — either word being
used to indicate a narrow valley or hollow. An
unfortunate child who lived there had never been so
well since the stone roller went over his head.
She had a lover, but he was ‘a gurt hummocksing
noon-naw,’ so she was not sorry to leave him.
The phrase might be translated, ‘great loose-jointed
idiot.’
They sometimes had lettuce-pudding
for dinner, and thought nothing of eating raw bacon.
In the snow the men wound hay-bands round their legs
to serve as gaiters, and found it answered admirably.
One poor girl had been subject to fits ever since
a stupid fellow, during the haymaking, jokingly picked
up a snake and threw it round her neck. Yet even
in that far-away coombe-bottom they knew enough to
put an oyster-shell in the kettle to prevent incrustation.
The rules of pronunciation understood
about Okebourne seemed to consist in lengthening the
syllables that are usually spoken quick, and shortening
those that are usually long. Hilary said that
years ago it really appeared as if there was something
deficient in the organs of the throat among the labourers,
for there were words they positively could not pronounce.
The word ‘reservoir,’ for instance, was
always ‘tezzievoy;’ they could not speak
the word correctly. He could not explain to me
a very common expression among the men when they wished
to describe anything unusual or strange for which they
had no exact equivalent. It was always ‘a
sort of a meejick.’ By degrees, however,
we traced it back to ‘menagerie.’
The travelling shows of wild beasts at first so much
astonished the villagers that everything odd and curious
became a menagerie, afterwards corrupted to ‘meejick.’
‘Caddle no man’s cattle’
was a favourite proverb with a population who were
never in a hurry. ‘Like shot out of a show’l,’
to express extreme nimbleness, was another. A
comfortless, bare apartment was ‘gabern;’
anything stirred with a pointed instrument was ’ucked’ — whether
a cow ‘ucked’ the fogger with her horn
or the stable was cleaned out with the fork.
The verb ‘to uck’ was capable indeed of
infinite conjugation, and young Aaron, breaking off
a bennet, once asked me to kindly ‘uck’
a grain of hay-dust out of his eye with it. When
a heron rose out of the brook ‘a moll ern flod
away.’
With all their apparent simplicity
some of the cottage folk were quite up to the value
of appearances. Old Aaron had a little shop; he
and his wife sold small packets of tea, tobacco, whipcord,
and so forth. Sometimes while his wife was weighing
out the sugar, old Aaron — wretched old deceiver — would
come in rustling a crumpled piece of paper as if it
were a banknote, and handing it to her with much impressiveness
of manner whisper loudly, ’Now you take un and
put un away; and mind you don’t mix um.
You put he along with the fives and not with the tens.’
Hilary once showed me the heel of
a boot which had just been mended by the hedge carpenter
and cobbler who worked for him; and offered to bet
that not all the scientific people in Europe, with
microscope, spectrum analysis, all their appliances,
could tell what leather the new heel-piece was made
of. Unable to guess, I gave it up; it was of
bacon. A pig that was never a ‘good doer’
was found in a ditch dead. There is always a
competition among the labourers for a dead pig or
sheep; it was the cobbler’s turn, and he had
it, cut it up, and salted it down. But when in
course of time he came to partake of his side of bacon,
behold it was so tough and dried up that even he could
not gnaw it. The side hung in the cottage for
months, for he did not like to throw it away, and
could not think what to do with it, for the dogs could
not eat it. At last the old fellow hit upon the
notion of using it as leather to mend shoes; so half
his customers walked about the world on bacon heels.
So far as I could discover, the cottage
folk did not now use many herbs. They made tea
sometimes of the tormentil, whose little yellow flowers
appear along the furrows. The leaves of the square-stemmed
figwort, which they called ‘cresset’ or
‘cressil,’ were occasionally placed on
a sore; and the yarrow — locally ’yarra’ — was
yet held in estimation as a salve or ointment.
It would be possible for any one to
dwell a long time in the midst of a village, and yet
never hear anything of this kind and obtain no idea
whatever of the curious mixture of the grotesque, the
ignorance and yet cleverness, which go to make up
hamlet life. But so many labourers and labouring
women were continually in and out of the kitchen at
Lucketts’ Place that I had an opportunity of
gathering these items from Mrs. Luckett and Cicely.
Years since they had employed even more labour, before
machinery came into use so much: then as many
as twenty-four women might have been counted in one
hayfield, all in regular rank like soldiers, turning
the hay ‘wallows’ with their rakes.
‘There’s one thing now you have forgotten,’
said Cicely. ’They pick the canker-roses
off the briars and carry them in the pocket as a certain
preventive of rheumatism.’