The cuckoos came so frequently to
some grass-land just outside the Chace and sloping
down to the brook that I gave the spot the name of
the Cuckoo-fields. There were two detached copses
in them of no great extent, and numerous oaks and
hawthorns, while the brook below was bordered with
willow-stoles. This stretch of grass was divided
into two large fields by a line of decaying posts
and rails, and it became a favourite resort of mine
in the warm days of spring, because I could almost
always see and hear the cuckoos there.
Why they should love it so much is
not easy to tell, unless on account of the comparatively
barren character of the soil. The earth seemed
to be of a very different kind to that in the rich
and fertile meadows and fields close by; for the grass
was rough, short, and thin, and soon became greyish
or brown as the summer advanced, burning or drying
up under the sun. It may often be observed that
a piece of waste, like furze, when in the midst of
good land, is much frequented by all birds and animals,
though where there is nothing else but waste they are
often almost entirely absent.
As the oaks come out into full leaf,
the time when the meadows become beautiful, the notes
of the cuckoo sound like a voice crying ’Come
hither’ from the trees. Then, sitting on
the grey and lichen-covered rail under the cover of
a hawthorn, I saw sometimes two and sometimes three
cuckoos following each other courting, now round the
copse, now by the hedge or the brook, and presently
along the rails where they constantly perched.
Occasionally one would alight on the sward among the
purple flowers of the meadow orchis. From the
marshy meadow across the brook apeew it rose from
time to time, uttering his plaintive call and wheeling
to and fro on the wing. At the sound a second
and a third appeared in succession, and after beating
up and down for a few minutes settled again in the
grass. The meadow might have been called a plovery — as
we say rookery and heronry — for the green
plovers or peewits always had several nests in it.
The course of the humble bees that
went by could be watched for some way — their
large size and darker colour made them visible — as
they now went down into the grass, and now started
forward again. The honey bees, small and somewhat
lighter in colour, could not be seen so far.
They were busy in the sunshine, for the hive bee must
gather most of its honey before the end of July, before
the scythe has laid the grass in the last meadow low.
Few if any flowers come up after the scythe has gone
over, except the white clover, which almost alone shows
in the aftermath, or, as country people call it, the
‘lattermath.’ Near me a titlark every
few minutes rose from the sward, and spreading his
wings came down aslant, singing with all his might.
Some sarsen stones just showed above
the grass: the old folk say that these boulders
grow in size and increase in number. The fact
is that in some soils the boulder protrudes more and
more above the surface in the course of time, and
others come into view that were once hidden; while
in another place the turf rises, and they seem to slowly
sink into the earth. The monotonous and yet pleasing
cry of the peewits, the sweet titlark singing overhead,
and the cuckoos flying round, filled the place with
the magic charm of spring.
Coming to these Cuckoo-fields day
after day, there was always something to interest
me, either in the meadows themselves or on the way
thither. The very dust of the road had something
to show. For under the shadowy elms a little
seed or grain had jolted down through the chinks in
the bed of a passing waggon, and there the chaffinches
and sparrows had congregated. As they moved to
and fro they had left the marks of their feet in the
thick white dust, so crossed and intertangled in a
maze of tracks that no one could have designed so
delicate and intricate a pattern. If it was cloudy,
still, glancing over the cornfields, just as you turned
partly round to look, there seemed a brilliant streak
of sunshine across them. This was a broad band
of charlock: its light yellow is so gaudy and
glaring in the mass that as it first catches the eye
it seems as if the land were lit up by the sun.
After it the buttercups appear of a quiet colour, like
dead gold in contrast.
Under-foot, almost in the very dust
of the road, the silverweed opened its yellow petals,
and where there was a dry bank, or by the gateways
leading into the corn, the pink pimpernel grew.
For some time I suspected the pimpernel of not invariably
closing its petals before rain, and at last by precise
observation found that it did not. Twice in a
comparatively short period I noted the petals wide
open within a few minutes of a shower. It appears
rather to close during the atmospheric change which
occurs previous to rain than to rain itself.
Once now and then a shower seems to come up in the
driest weather without warning or change in the atmosphere:
the cloud is over and gone almost before it seems
worth while to take shelter. To the approach
of such shower-clouds the pimpernel does not invariably
respond, but it is perfectly accurate if anything serious
be brewing. By a furrow in the sward by the roadside
there grew a little piece of some species of gorse — so
small and delicate, with the tiniest yellow flowers,
that it was well worthy of a place where it would be
admired; for few could have seen it hidden there.
Birds’-foot lotus covered the
sward of one part of the Cuckoo-fields, on the higher
ground near the woods, where the soil was dry; and
by the hedge there were some bushy plants of the rest-harrow,
whose prickly branches repel cattle and whose appearance
reproaches the farmer for neglect. Yet though
an outcast with animals and men, it bears a beautiful
flower, butterfly-shaped and delicately tinted with
pink. Now, as the days roll on, the blue succory
and the scarlet poppies stand side by side in the
yellow wheat but just outside my Cuckoo-fields, and
one or two stray corncockles bloom; they are not common
here and are perhaps brought from a distance.
Here you may walk many miles and even wait several
harvests to see a corncockle.
The thistledown floats; and see, yonder
the white balls are rolling before the gentle air
along the very tips of the bronzing wheat-ears.
By the hedge the straggling stalks of St. John’s
wort lift the yellow petals dotted with black specks
above the bunches of grass. The leaves, held
up to the light, seem to have numerous eyelets, as
if pricked but not quite through — windows
in the leaf. In the grass the short selfheal
shows; and, leaning over the gate, on the edge of the
wheat you may see the curious prickly seed-vessels
of the corn buttercup — the ’hedgehog’ — whose
spines, however, will not scratch the softest skin.
Resting on the rail under the hawthorn
for a minute or two in early spring, when it was too
chilly to stay long, I watched a flock of rooks and
jackdaws soaring in the sky. Round and round and
ever upwards they circled, the jackdaws of course
betraying their presence by their call; up towards
the blue, as if in the joy of their hearts, they held
a festival, happy in the genial weather and the approach
of the nesting-time. This soaring and wheeling
is evidently done for recreation, like a dance.
Presently the flock seems to tumble and fall, and
there comes the rushing sound of the air swiftly parted
by their out-spread wings as they dive a hundred feet
in a second. The noise is audible a quarter of
a mile off. This, too, is play; for, catching
themselves and regaining their balance just above the
elms, they resume their steady flight onwards to distant
feeding-grounds. Later in the season, sitting
there in the warm evenings, I could hear the pheasants
utter their peculiar roost-cry, and the noise of their
wings as they flew up in the wood: the vibration
is so loud that it might almost be described as thumping.
By-and-by the cuckoo began to lose
his voice; he gurgled and gasped, and cried ‘cuck — kuk — kwai — kash,’
and could not utter the soft, melodious ‘oo.’
The latest date on which I ever heard the cuckoo here,
to be certain, was the day before St. Swithin, July
14, 1879. The nightingales, too, lose their sweet
notes, but not their voices; they remain in the hedges
long after their song has ceased. Passing by the
hawthorn bushes up to the end of July, you may hear
a bird within that seems to threaten you with a loud
‘sweet-kurr,’ and, looking in, you will
find it to be a nightingale. The spelling exactly
represents the sound, ‘r’ being twirled.
‘Sweet-kurr-kurr’ comes from the interior
of the bushes with an angry emphasis.
Along the lower part of these meadows
there was a brook, and the brook-sparrows were chattering
ceaselessly as I walked among the willow-stoles by
it one morning towards the end of June. On the
left hand the deep stream flowed silently round its
gentle curves, and on the other through the willows
and alders the grassy slope of the Cuckoo-fields was
visible. Broad leaves of the marsh marigold, the
flower long since gone, covered the ground; light-green
horsetails were dotted thickly about; and tall grasses
flourished, rising to the knee. Dark shallow
pools were so hidden under these grasses and plants
that the presence of the black and yet clear water
could not be perceived until the foot sank into it.
The sedge-birds kept just in front
of me, now busy on a willow-stole, and concealed in
the grasses and moss which grew out of the decaying
wood; now among the sedges covering the mudbanks where
the brook had silted up; now in the hedge which divided
the willows from the meadow. Still the peculiar
sparrow-like note, the ringing chirp, came continually
from their throats; the warm sultry day delighted them.
One clung to the side of a slender flag, which scarcely
seemed strong enough to support it, yet did not even
bend under its weight; then on again as I came nearer — but
only two or three yards — to recommence singing
immediately.
Pushing through the brushwood and
past the reddish willow-poles, I entered a very thicket
of flags, rising to the shoulder. These were
not ribbed or bayonet-shaped, but flat, like a long
sword. Three or four sprang from a single root,
broad and tall, and beside them a stalk, and on it
the yellow iris in fall flower. The marsh seemed
lit up with these bright lamps of colour under the
shadowy willows and the dark alders. There were
a dozen at least within a few yards close around,
and others dimly visible through the branches — three
large yellow petals drooping, and on the curve of
each brownish mottled markings or lines delicately
stippled, beside them a rolled spike-like bloom not
yet unfolded: a flower of the waters, crowned
with gold, above the green dwellers by the shore.
Here the sedge-birds left me, doubling
back to their favourite willow-stoles and sedges.
Further on, the ground rose, and on the drier bank
the ‘gicks’ grew shoulder high, towering
over the brambles. It was difficult to move through
the tangled underwood, so I went out into the Cuckoo-fields.
Hilary had drained away much of the water that used
to form a far larger marsh about here, and calculated
his levellings in a most ingenious manner with a hollow
‘gicks.’ He took a wooden bowl, and
filled it to the brim with water. Then cutting
a dry ‘gicks’ so that it should be open
at either end, like a tube, he floated it — the
stalk is very light — on the bowl. Looking
through this tube he could get his level almost as
accurately as with an engineer’s instrument,
though of course it was more cumbrous to use.
There was a corner here that had not
been mown for a long time, and in the autumn the wild
carrots took possession of it, almost to the exclusion
of grass and other plants. The flower of the wild
carrot gathers together as the seeds mature, and forms
a framework cup at the top of the stalk, like a bird’s-nest.
These ‘bird’s-nests,’ brown and
weather-beaten, endured far into the winter. The
brook-sparrows still sang as I passed by again in
the evening; they seem the most unwearied of birds,
for you may hear them all day, all the evening, and
at one o’clock next morning; indeed, at intervals,
all night. By night the note is, or appears to
be, less sparrow-like, or perhaps the silence of night
improves it to the ear. I stayed that evening
in a corner of a wheatfield not yet yellow, and watched
the shadows of the trees grow longer and broader as
the sun declined.
As the breeze rushed over the corn
there was a play of various shades of green, the stalks
as they bent this and that way taking different hues.
But under the hedge it was still; the wind could not
come through, though it moved the boughs above.
A mass of cloud like flocks of wool, mottled and with
small spaces of blue between, drifted slowly eastwards,
and its last edge formed an arch over the western horizon,
under which the sun shone. The yellow vetchling
had climbed up from the ditch and opened its flower,
and there were young nuts on the hazel bough.
Far away in a copse a wood-pigeon called; nearer the
blackbirds were whistling; a willow wren uttered his
note high in the elm, and a distant yellowhammer sang
to the sinking sun.
The brook had once been much wider,
and in flood times rendered the Overboro’ road
almost impassable; for before a bridge was built it
spread widely and crossed the highway — a
rushing, though shallow, torrent fifty yards broad.
The stumps of the willows that had grown by it could
still be found in places, and now and then an ancient
‘bullpoll’ was washed up. This grass
is so tough that the tufts or cushions it forms will
last in water for fifty years, even when rooted up — decayed
of course and black, but still distinguishable.
In those times just previous to the construction of
railways, when the lord of the manor came down after
Parliament rose, there used to be a competition to
get hold of his coachman. So few agricultural
people travelled, and news came so slowly and in such
distorted fashion, that the coachman became a great
authority. Such a brook as this was then often
a serious obstacle.
There was still an old punt, seldom
used, to be found in a rickyard of Hilary’s,
close by which was an extensive pond. The punt
was thatched over with flags from the stream.
The moorhens were fond of this pond because it was
surrounded with a great quantity of rushes; they were
numerous all up the brook. These birds, being
tame and common, are not much regarded either for
sport or the table, yet a moorhen shot at the right
time of the year — not till the frosts have
begun — is delicious eating. If the
bird were rare it would be thought to rival the woodcock;
as it is, probably few people ever taste it. The
path to Lucketts’ Place from this rickyard passed
a stone-quarry, where the excavated stone was built
up in square heaps. In these heaps, in which
there were many interstices and hollows, rabbits often
sat out; and by stopping the entrance and carefully
removing the stones they might occasionally be taken
by hand. Next by the barn where in spring the
sparrows made a continuous noise, chirping and quarrelling
as they carried on their nesting operations:
they sometimes flew up with long green bennets and
grass fibres as well as with dry straws.
Then across the road, where the flint-heaps
always put me in mind of young Aaron; for he once
gravely assured me that they were the very best places
in the world on which to rest or sleep. The flints
were dry, and preserved the slumbering wayfarer from
damp. He had no doubt proved this when the ale
was too strong. At the house, as I passed through
the courtyard, I found him just on the point of starting
for Overboro’ with a wallet, to bring back some
goods from the shops. The wallet is almost unknown
even in farmsteads now: it is a kind of long
bag closed at each end, but with a slit in the centre
for the insertion of the things to be conveyed.
When filled it is slung over the shoulder, one end
in front and the other behind, so as to balance.
Without knowing the shape of a wallet the story of
Jack the Giant-Killer stowing away such enormous quantities
of pudding is scarcely to be understood: children
nowadays never see such a thing. Many nursery
tales contain allusions of this kind, the meaning of
which must be obscure to the rising generation.
Within doors I found a great discussion
going forward between Hilary and a farmer who had
called, as to the exact relationship of a man who
had just quitted his tenancy and another who died nearly
forty years before. They could not agree either
as to the kinship or the date; though the visitor
was the more certain because he so well remembered
that there was an extraordinary cut of ‘turvin’
that year. The ‘turvin’ is the hay
made on the leaze, not the meadows, out of the rough
grass and bennets left by the cows. To listen
to the zest with which they entered into the minutest
details of the family affairs of so long ago, concerning
people with whom neither had any connection — how
they recollected the smallest particulars — was
astonishing. This marvellous capacity for gossip
seemed like a revelation of a totally different state
of society. The memory of country people for
such details is beyond belief.
When the visitor left with his wife
we walked to the gate and saw them down the road;
and it was curious to note that they did not walk side
by side. If you meet a farmer of the old style
and his wife walking together, never do you see them
arm-in-arm. The husband walks a yard or two in
front, or else on the other side of the road; and this
even when they are going to church.