By Robert Hichens
Two years ago I was travelling by
diligence in the Sahara Desert on the great caravan
route, which starts from Beni-Mora and ends, they say,
at Tombouctou. For fourteen hours each day we
were on the road, and each evening about nine o’clock
we stopped at a Bordj, or Travellers’ House,
ate a hasty meal, threw ourselves down on our gaudy
Arab rugs, and slept heavily till the hour before
dawn, drugged by fatigue, and by the strong air of
the desert. In the late afternoon of the third
day of our journeying we drove into a sandstorm.
A great wind arose, carrying with it innumerable multitudes
of sand grains, which whirled about the diligence
and the struggling horses, blotting out the desert
as completely as a London fog blots out the street
on a November day. The cold became intense, and
very soon I began to long for the next halting-place.
“Where do we stop to-night?”
I shouted to the French driver, who, with his yellow
toque pulled down over his ears, was chirping encouragement
to his horses.
“Sidi-Hamdane,” he answered,
without turning his head. “At the inn of
‘Fin Tireur.’”
Three hours later we drew up before
a low building, from which a light shone kindly, and
I scrambled down stiffly, and lurched into the longed-for
shelter.
There was a man in the doorway, a
short, sturdy, middle-aged Frenchman, with strong
features, a tuft of grey beard, heavy eyebrows, and
dark, prominent eyes, with a hot, shining look in
them.
“Bon soir, m’sieu,” he said.
“Bon soir!,” I answered.
This was my host, the innkeeper whom the driver had
called “Fin Tireur.”
I found out afterwards that he was
not only landlord of the desolate inn, but cook, garcon;
in fact, the whole personnel. He lived there
absolutely alone, and was the only European in this
Arab village lost in the great spaces of the Sahara.
This information I drew from him while he waited upon
me at dinner, which I ate in solitude. My companions
of the diligence were Arabs, who had melted away like
ghosts into the desolation so soon as the diligence
had rolled into the paved courtyard round which the
one-storied house was built.
When I had finished dinner I lit a
cigar. I was now quite alone in the bare salle-a-manger.
The storm was at its height; the sand was driven like
hail against the wooden shutters of the windows, and
I felt dreary enough. The French driver was no
doubt supping in the kitchen with the landlord, perhaps
beside a fire, I began to long for company, for warmth,
and I resolved to join them. I opened the door,
therefore, and peered out into the passage. There
was no sound of voices; but I saw a light at a little
distance, went towards it, and found myself in a small
kitchen, where the landlord was sitting alone by a
red wood fire in the midst of his pots and pans, smoking
a thin black cigar, and reading a dirty number of
the Journal Anti-Juif of Algiers. He put
it down politely as I came in.
“You’re alone, monsieur,” I said.
“Yes, m’sieu. The driver has gone
to see to the horses.”
I offered him one of my Havanas, which
he accepted with alacrity, and drew up with him before
the fire.
“You have been living here long, monsieur?”
“Twenty years, m’sieu.”
“Twenty years alone in this desert place!”
“Nineteen years alone, m’sieu. Before
that I had my little Marie.”
“Marie?”
“My child, m’sieu. She is buried
in the sand behind the inn.”
I looked at him in silence. His
brown, wrinkled face was calm, but in his prominent
eyes there was still the hot shining look I had observed
in them when I arrived.
“The palms begin there,”
he added. “Year by year I have saved what
I could, and now I have bought all the palm-trees
near where she lies.”
He puffed away at his Havana.
“You come from France?” I asked presently.
“From the Midi I was born at Cassis,
near Marseille.”
“Don’t you ever intend to go back there?”
“Never, m’sieu. Would you have me
desert my child?”
“But,” I said gently, “she is dead.”
“Yes; but I have promised her
that her bon papa will lie with her presently
for company. Leave her alone with the Arabs!”
A sudden look of horror came into his face.
“You don’t like the Arabs?”
“Like the dirty dogs! You haven’t
been told about me, m’sieu?”
“Only that your name was Fin Tireur.’”
“‘Fin Tireur.’ Yes; that’s
what they call me in the desert.”
“You’re a sportsman? A ’capital
shot’?”
He laughed suddenly, and his laugh made me feel cold.
“Oh! they don’t call me
‘Fin Tireur’ because I can hit gazelle,
and bring them home for supper. No, no!
Shall I tell you why?”
He looked at me half defiantly, half wistfully, I
thought.
“But if I do, perhaps your stomach
will turn against the food I cooked with these hands,”
he added suddenly, stretching out his hands towards
me, “You are English, m’sieu?”
“Yes.”
“Then I daresay you won’t
understand.” “I think I shall,”
I answered, looking full at him.
The way he had spoken of his child
had drawn me to him. Whatever he had done, I
felt that chivalry and tenderness were in this man.
“Why do they call you ’Fin
Tireur’?” “The men of the Midi, m’sieu,
are not like the men of the rest of France,”
said Fin Tireur “at least so they
say. We are boasters, perhaps; but we’ve
got more love of adventure, more wish to see the world,
and do something big in it. They’re talkers,
you know, in the Midi, and they tell of what they’ve
done. I heard them at Cassis when I was a boy,
and one day I saw a Zouave in front of the inn balcony,
where folks come on fête days to eat the bouillabaisse.
The talk I had heard made me wish to rove; but when
I saw the Zouave, in his big red trousers and blue
and red jacket, I said to myself: ‘As soon
as my three years’ service is over I’ll
go to Africa, and make my fortune.’ I did
my three years at Grenoble, m’sieu, and when
it was done I carried out my resolve. I came to
Africa; but I didn’t come alone.”
He puffed at his cigar for a minute
or two, and the hot look in his eyes became more definite,
like a fanned flame.
“You took a comrade?”
“I took a wife, a girl of Cassis. A good
girl she was then.”
He paused again, then continued, in
rather a loud voice: “She was good, m’sieu,
because she had seen nothing. That’s often
the way. It was I who put it into her head that
there were things to be seen better than rocks, and
dead white dusty roads, and fishing boats against the
quay. I’ve thought of that since I since
I got my name of Fin Tireur. Her name was Marie,
and she was eighteen when we stood before the priest.
Next day we went to Marseille, and took the boat for
Algiers. Our heads were full of I don’t
know what. We thought we were clever ones, and
should do well in a country like Africa. And so
we did at first. We got into a hotel at Algiers.
She was housemaid, and I was porter in the hall, and
what with the goings and comings strangers
giving us a little when we’d done our best for
them we made some money, and we saved it.
And I wish to God we’d spent it, every sou!”
His voice became fierce for a moment.
Then he continued, with an obvious effort to be calm:
“You see, m’sieu, at Algiers we had nothing
to say to the Arabs. With the money we’d
saved we left Algiers, and came into the desert to
take a cafe which was to let near the station at Beni-Mora.”
“I’ve just come from there.”
“They call it ‘Au Retour du
Sahara.’”
“I’ve had coffee there.”
“That was ours, and there little
Marie was born. In those days there weren’t
many strangers in Beni-Mora. The railway had only
just come there, and it was wild enough. Very
few, except the Arabs. Well, they were often
our customers. We learned to talk a bit of their
language, and they a bit of ours; and, having no friends
out there, I might say we made sort of friends with
some of them. The dirty dogs! The camels!”
He struck his clenched hand down on
the table. As he talked he had lost his former
consciousness of my close observation.
“But they know how to please women, m’sieu.
“They are often very handsome,” I said.
“It isn’t only that.
They can stare a woman down as a wild beast can, and
that’s what women like. I never so much
as looked on them as men not in that way,
for a Cassis woman, m’sieu. But Marie ”
He choked, ground his teeth on his
cigar stump, let it drop, and stamped out the glowing
end on the brick floor with his heel.
“She served them, m’sieu,”
he resumed, after clearing his throat. “But
I was mostly there, and I don’t see how but
women can always find the way. Well, one day
she went to what they call a sand-diviner. She
didn’t pretend anything. She told me she
wanted to go, and I was ready. I was always ready
that she should have any little pleasure. I couldn’t
leave the cafe, so she went off alone to a room he
had by the Garden of the Gazelles, at the end of the
dancing-street.”
“I know over the place where they
smoke the kief.”
“She didn’t answer, but
went and sat down under the arbour, opposite to where
they wash the clothes. I followed her, for she
looked ill.
“‘Did he read in the sand for you?’
I said.
“‘Yes,’ she said; ‘he did.’
“‘What things did he read?’
“She turned, and looked right
at me. ‘That my fate lies in the sand,’
she said ’and yours, and hers.’
“And she pointed at little Marie,
who was playing with a yellow kid we had then just
by the door.
“‘What’s that to
be afraid of?’ I asked her. ’Haven’t
we come to the desert to make our fortune, and isn’t
there sand in the desert?’
“‘Not much by here,’ she said.
“And that’s true, m’sieu. It’s
hard ground, you know, at Beni-Mora.”
“Yes,” I said, offering him another cigar.
He refused it with a quick gesture.
“She never would say another
word as to what the sand-diviner had told her; but
she was never the same from that day. She was
as uneasy as a lost bitch, m’sieu; and she made
me uneasy too. Sometimes she wouldn’t speak
to our little one when the child ran to her, and sometimes
she’d catch her up, and kiss her till the little
one’s cheek was as red as if you’d been
striking it. And then one day, after dark, she
went.”
“Went!”
“I’d been ill with fever,
and gone to spend the night at the sulphur baths;
you know, m’sieu, Hammam-Salahkin, under
the mountains. I came back just at dawn to open
the cafe. When I got off my mule at the door
I heard” his face twitched convulsively “the
most horrible crying of a child. It was so horrible
that I just stood there, holding on to the bridle
of the mule, and listening, and didn’t dare go
in. I’d heard children cry often enough
before; but mon Dieu! never
like that. At last I dropped the bridle, and
went in, with my legs shaking under me. I found
the little one alone in the house, and like a mad thing.
She’d been alone all night.”
His face set rigidly.
“And her mother knew I should
be all night at the Hammam,” he said.
“Fin Tireur yes, it was coming back,
and finding my little one left like that in such a
place, made me earn the name.”
He fell suddenly into a moody silence.
I broke it by saying: “It was the sand-diviner?”
He looked at me sharply. “I don’t
know.”
“You never found out?”
“At Beni-Mora the women go veiled,” he
said harshly.
Suddenly I realised the horror of
the situation: the deserted husband living on
with his child in the midst of the ordained and close
secrecy of Beni-Mora, where many of the women never
set foot out of doors, and those who do, unless they
are the public dancers, are so heavily veiled that
their features cannot be recognised.
“What did you do?” I asked.
“I searched, as far as one can
search in an Arab town, and found out nothing.
I wanted to tear the veil from every woman in the place;
and then I was sent away from Beni-Mora.”
“By whom?”
“The French authorities, my
own countrymen,” he laughed bitterly. “To
save me from getting myself murdered, m’sieu.”
“You would have been.”
“Why not? Then I came here
to keep the inn for the diligence that carries the
mails to the south, for I wouldn’t leave the
country till ”
He paused.
“And the sand-diviner?”
“I left him at Beni-Mora.
He smiled, and said he knew no more than I; and perhaps
he didn’t. How was I to tell?”
“But your name of Fin Tireur?”
“Ah!” the thing
in his eyes glowed like a thing red-hot “I’d
been here eleven months when, one afternoon of summer,
just near sunset, I heard a noise of drums beating
and African pipes screaming, and the snarl of camels
on the road you came to-night. I was in the house,
in this room where we are sitting now, and little
Marie was playing just outside by the well, so that
I could see her through the window. By the sounds,
I knew a great caravan was coming up, and passing
towards the south. They always water at the well,
and I stood by the window to see them. Little
Marie stood too, shading her eyes with her bit of a
hand. The drums and pipes got louder, and round
the corner of the inn came as big a caravan as I’ve
ever seen; near a hundred camels, horsemen, and led
mules and donkeys, Kabyle dogs and goats, the music
playing all the time, and a Caid’s flag flying
in the front. They made for the well, as I knew
they would, and little Marie stood all the while watching
them. M’sieu, there were square packs on
some of the camels, and veiled women on the packs.”
He looked across at me hard.
“Veiled women?” I repeated.
“When they got to the well they
made the camels kneel for the women to get down; and
one of the women, when she was down, caught sight of
Marie standing there, with her little hand shading
her eyes. That woman gave a great cry behind
her veil. I heard it, m’sieu, as I stood
by the window there, and I saw the woman run at the
little one.”
He got up from his seat slowly, and
stood by the wooden shutter, against which the sand
was driven by the wind.
“In a place like this, m’sieu,
one keeps a revolver here.”
He put his hand to a pocket at the
back of his breeches, brought out a revolver, and
pointed it at the shutter.
“When I heard the woman cry
I took my revolver out. When I saw the woman
run I fired, and the bullet struck the veil.”
He put the revolver back into his
pocket, and sat down again quietly.
“And that’s why they call me Fin Tireur.”
I said nothing, and sat staring at him.
“When the camels had been watered the caravan
went on.”
“The Caïd had the body tied across a donkey they
told me.”
“You didn’t see?”
“No. I took the little
one in. She was screaming, and I had to see to
her. It was two days afterwards, when I was at
the market, that a scorpion stung her. She was
dead when I came back. Well, m’sieu, are
you sorry you ate your supper?”
Before I could reply, the door opening
into the courtyard gaped, and the driver entered,
followed by a cloud of whirling sand grains.
“Nom d’un chien!”
he exclaimed. “Get me a tumbler of wine,
for the love of God, Fin Tireur. My throat’s
full of the sand. Sacre nom d’un nom d’un
nom!”
He pulled off his coat, turned it
upside down, and shook the sand out of the pockets,
while Fin Tireur went over to the corner of the kitchen
where the bottles stood in a row against the earthen
wall.