Among the very great number of men
and women whom I have known during my life in Italy some
merely acquaintances, and many whom I knew to be,
and a few, alas! a very few, whom I still know to be
trusty friends there were many of whom
the world has heard, and some perhaps of whom it would
not unwillingly hear something more. But time
and space are limited, and I must select as best I
may.
I have a very pleasant recollection
of “Garibaldi’s Englishman,” Colonel
Peard. Peard had many more qualities and capabilities
than such as are essential to a soldier of fortune.
The phrase, however, is perhaps not exactly that which
should be used to characterise him. He had qualities
which the true soldier of fortune should not possess.
His partisanship was with him in the highest degree
a matter of conviction and conscientious opinion,
and nothing would have tempted him to change
his colours or draw his sword on the other side.
I am not sure either, whether a larger amount of native
brain power, and (in a much greater degree) a higher
quality of culture, than that of the general under
whom it may be his fortune to serve, is a good part
of the equipment of a soldier of fortune. And
Peard’s relation to Garibaldi very notably exemplified
this.
He was a native of Devonshire, as
was my first wife; we saw a good deal of him in Florence,
and I have before me a letter written to her by him
from Naples on the 28th of January, 1861, which is
interesting in more respects than one. Peard
was a man who would have all that depended
on him ship-shape. And this fact, taken in conjunction
with the surroundings amid which he had to do his
work, is abundantly sufficient to justify the growl
he indulges in.
“My dear Mrs. Trollope,” he writes,
“I am ashamed to think either of you or of other
friends at Florence; it is such an age since I have
written to any of you. But I have been daily,
from morning to night, hard at work for weeks.
The honour of having a command is all very
well, but the trouble and worry are unspeakable.
Besides, I had such a set under me that it was enough
to rile the sweetest tempered man. Volunteers
may be very well in their way. I doubt not their
efficiency in repelling an attack in their own country.
But defend me from ever again commanding a brigade
of English volunteers in a foreign country. As
to the officers, many were most mutinous, and some
something worse. Thank goodness the brigade is
at an end. All I now wait for is the settlement
of the accounts. If I can get away by the second
week in February, I at present think of taking a run
as far as Cairo, then crossing to Jerusalem, and back
by Jaffa, Beyrout, Smyrna, and Athens to Italy, when
I shall hope once more to see you and yours.
“Politics do not look well in
Southern Italy, I fear. The Mazzinists have been
most active, and have got up a rather strong feeling
against Cavour and what they think the peace party.
Now Italy must have a little rest for organisation,
civil as well as military. They do not give the
Government time to do or even propose good measures
for the improvement of the country. No sooner
are one set of ministers installed than intrigues
are on foot to upset them. I firmly believe that
the only hope for Southern Italy and Sicily is in a
strong military Government. These districts must
be treated as conquered provinces, and the
people educated and taught habits of industry, whether
they like it or not. The country is at present
in a state of barbarism, and must be saved from that.
All that those who are supposed to be educated
seem to think about is how they can get a few dollars
out of Government.” [I fear the honest Englishman
would find that those supposed to be educated in those
provinces are as much in a state of barbarism in the
matters that offended him as ever.] “I never
saw such a set of harpies in my life. One had
the assurance to come to me a few days since, asking
if I could not take him on the strength of the brigade,
so as to enable him to get six months pay out of the
Government. As to peculation, read Gil Blas,
and that will give you a faint sketch of the customs
and habits of all impiegati [civil servants]
in this part of Italy. I do not believe that the
Southern Italians, taken as a body, know what honesty
is.” [All that he says is true to the present
day. But the distinction which he makes between
the Southern Italians and those of the other provinces
is most just, and must be remembered.] “But
that is the fault of the horrid system of tyranny
under which they have so long lived. I do not
say that the old system must be reformed, it must
be totally changed. Solomon might make laws,
but so corrupt are all the impiegati, that
I doubt if he could get them carried out. Poor
Garibaldi is made a tool of by a set of designing
intriguers, who will sacrifice him at any moment.
He is too honest to see or believe of dishonesty in
others. He has no judgment of character.
He has been surrounded by a set of blacklegs and swindlers,
many among them, I regret to say, English. How
I look forward to seeing you all again! Till we
meet, believe me
“Most truly yours,
“GIO. [sic] PEARD.”
The last portion of this letter is
highly interesting and historically well worth preserving.
It is entirely and accurately true. And there
was no man in existence more fitted by native integrity
and hatred of dishonesty on the one hand, and close
intimacy with the subject of his remarks on the other,
to speak authoritatively on the matter than “Garibaldi’s
Englishman.”
The following letter, written, as
will be seen, on the eve of his departure for the
celebrated expedition to Sicily, is also interesting.
It is dated Genoa.
“DEAR MRS. TROLLOPE, I
have been thinking over your observations about terno.
I don’t give up my translation; but would it
not be literal enough to translate it, ‘the
bravest three colours’?
[This refers to the rendering of the
lottery phrase terno in a translation by my
wife of the stornello of Dall’ Ongaro
previously mentioned. In the Italian lottery,
ninety numbers, 1-90, are always put into the wheel.
Five only of these are drawn out. The player
bets that a number named by him shall be one of these
(semplice estratto); or that it shall be the
first drawn (estratto determinato); or that
two numbers named by him shall be two of the five
drawn (ambo); or that three so named shall be
drawn (terno). It will be seen, therefore,
that the winner of an estratto determinato,
ought, if the play were quite even, to receive ninety
times his stake. But, in fact, such a player would
receive only seventy-five times his stake, the profit
of the Government consisting of this pull of fifteen
per ninety against the player. Of course, what
he ought to receive in any of the other cases is easily
(not by me, but by experts) calculable. It will
be admitted that the difficulty of translating the
phrase in Dall’ Ongaro’s little poem, so
as to be intelligible to English readers, was considerable.
The letter then proceeds]:
“I did not start, you will see,
direct from Livorno [Leghorn], for Medici wrote me
to join him here. Moreover, the steamer by which
I expected to have gone, did not make the trip, but
was sent back to this city. I will worry you
with a letter when anything stirring occurs.
We sail to-night. Part went off last evening 1,500.
We go in three steamers, and shall overtake the others.
“With kind regards to all friends, believe me,
“Yours very faithfully,
“JOHN PEARD.”
The remarks contained in the former
of the two letters here transcribed seem to make this
a proper place for recording “what I remember”
of Garibaldi.
My first acquaintance with him was
through my very old, and very highly valued, loved,
and esteemed friend, Jessie White Mario. The
Garibaldi culte has been with her truly and
literally the object (apart from her devoted love
for her husband, an equally ardent worshipper at the
same shrine) for which she has lived, and for which
she has again and again affronted death. For she
accompanied him in all his Italian campaigns as a
hospital nurse, and on many occasions rendered her
inestimable services in that capacity under fire.
If Peard has been called “Garibaldi’s
Englishman,” truly Jessie White Mario deserves
yet more emphatically the title of “Garibaldi’s
Englishwoman.” She has published a large
life of Garibaldi, which is far and away the best
and most trustworthy account of the man and his wonderful
works. She is not blind to the spots on the sun
of her adoration, nor does she seek to conceal the
fact that there were such spots, but she is a true
and loyal worshipper all the same.
Her husband was alas! that
I should write so; for no Indian wife’s life
was ever more ended by her suttee than Jessie Mario’s
life has practically been ended by her husband’s
untimely death! Alberto Mario was among
the, I fear, few exceptions to Peard’s remarks
on the men who were around Garibaldi. He was
not only a man of large literary culture, a brave
soldier, an acute politician, a formidable political
adversary, and a man of perfect and incorruptible integrity,
but he would have been considered in any country and
in any society in Europe a very perfect gentleman.
He was in political opinion a consistent and fearlessly
outspoken Republican. He and I therefore differed
toto coelo. But our differences never
diminished our, I trust, mutual esteem, nor our friendly
intercourse. But he was a born frondeur.
He edited during his latter years a newspaper at Rome,
which was a thorn in the side of the authorities.
I remember his being prosecuted and condemned for
persistently speaking of the Pope in his paper as
“Signor Pecci.” He was sentenced to
imprisonment. But all the Government wanted was
his condemnation; and he was never incarcerated.
But he used to go daily to the prison and demand the
execution of his sentence. The gaoler used to
shut the door in his face, and he narrated the result
of his visit in the next day’s paper!
It was as Jessie Mario’s friend
then, that I first knew Garibaldi.
One morning at the villa I then possessed,
at Ricorboli, close to Florence, a maid-servant came
flying into the room, where I was still in bed at
six o’clock in the morning, crying out in the
utmost excitement, “C’è il Generale!
c’è il Generale; e chiede di lei, signore!” “Here’s
the General! here’s the General! And he
is asking for you, sir!” She spoke as if there
was but one general in all the world. But there
was hardly any room in Florence at that time where
her words would not have been understood as well as
I understood them.
I jumped out of bed, got into a dressing-gown,
and ran out to where the “General” was
on the lawn before the door, just as I was, and hardly
more than half awake. There he was, all alone.
But if there had been a dozen other men around him,
I should have had no difficulty in recognising him.
There was the figure as well known to every Italian
from Turin to Syracuse as that of his own father the
light grey trousers, the little foraging cap, the
red shirt, the bandana handkerchief loosely thrown
over his shoulders and round his neck.
Prints, photographs, portraits of
all kinds, have made the English public scarcely less
familiar than the Italian, with the physiognomy of
Giuseppe Garibaldi. But no photograph, of course,
and no painting which I have ever seen, gives certain
peculiarities of that striking head and face, as I
first saw it, somewhere about twenty years ago.
The pose of the head, and the general
arrangement and colour of the tawny hair (at that
time but slightly grizzled) justified the epithet
“leonine” so often applied to him.
His beard and moustache were of the same hue, and
his skin was probably fair by nature, but it had been
tanned by wind and weather. The clear blue eyes
were surrounded by a network of fine lines. This
had no trace or suggestion of cunning, as is
often the case with wrinkles round the setting of the
eyes, but was obviously the result of habitual contraction
of the muscles in gazing at very distant objects.
In short, Garibaldi’s eyes, both in this respect
and in respect of a certain, steadfast, far-away look
in them, were the eyes of a sailor. Seamanship,
as is generally known, was his first profession.
Another physical peculiarity of his which I do not
remember to have seen noticed in print was a remarkably
beautiful voice. It was fine in quality and of
great range; sweet, yet manly, and with a suggestion
of stored-up power which harmonised with the man.
It seemed to belong, too, to the benevolence, which
was the habitual expression of his face when in repose.
“Jessie [pronounced Jessee]
told me I should find you up; but you are not so early
as I am!” was his salutation. I said he
had dans lé temps been beforehand with others
as well as with me! At which he laughed, not,
I thought, ill-pleased. And then we talked about
Italy of course. One subject of his talk I specially
remember, because it gave rise to a little discussion,
and in a great degree gave me the measure of the man.
“As for the priests,”
said he, “they ought all to be put to death,
without exception and without delay!”
“Rather a strong measure!” I ventured
to say.
“Not a bit too strong! not a
bit!” he rejoined warmly. “Do we not
put assassins to death? And is not the man who
murders your soul worse than the man who only kills
your body?”
I attempted to say that the difference
of the two cases lay in the fact, that as to the killing
of the body there was no doubt about the matter, whereas
mankind differed very widely as to the killing of the
soul; and that as long as it remained a moot point
whether priests did so or not, it would hardly be
practicable or even politic to adopt the measure he
suggested.
But he would not listen to me only
repeated with increasing excitement that no good could
come to humanity till all priests were destroyed.
Then we talked about the Marries,
of both of whom he spoke with the greatest affection;
and of the prospects of “going to Rome,”
which of course he considered the simplest and easiest
thing possible.
I saw Garibaldi on many subsequent
occasions, but never again tete-a-tete, or
a Quattro Oct, as the Italians more significantly
phrase it. The last time I ever saw him was under
melancholy circumstances enough, though the occasion
professed to be one of rejoicing. It was at the
great gathering at Palermo for celebrating the anniversary
of the Sicilian Vespers. Of course such a celebration
would have brought Garibaldi to partake in it, wherever
he might have been, short of in his grave. And
truly he was then very near that. It was a melancholy
business. He was brought from the steamer to his
bed in the hotel on a litter through the streets lined
by the thousands who had gathered to see him, but
who had been warned that his condition was such, that
the excitement occasioned by any shouting would be
perilous to him. Amid dead silence his litter
passed through the crowds who were longing to welcome
him to the scene of his old triumphs! Truly it
was more like a funeral procession than one of rejoicing.
It was very shortly before his death,
which many people thought had been accelerated by
that last effort to make his boundless popularity
available for the propagation of Radicalism.
Peard’s words reveal with exactitude
the deficiency which lay at the root of all the blunders,
follies, and imprudence which rendered his career
less largely beneficent for Italy than it might have
been. “He had no judgment of character,”
and was too honest to believe in knavery. It
must be added that he was too little intelligent to
detect it, or to estimate the consequences of it.
Of any large views of social life, or of the means
by which, and the objects for which, men should be
governed, he was as innocent as a baby. In a word,
he was not an intellectual man. All the high
qualities which placed him on the pinnacle he occupied
were qualities of the heart and not of the head.
They availed with admirable success to fit him for
exercising a supreme influence over men, especially
young men, in the field, and for all the duties of
a guerilla leader. They would not have sufficed
to make him a great commander of armies; and did still
less fit him for becoming a political leader.
Whom next shall I present to the reader
from the portrait gallery of my reminiscences?
Come forward, Franz Pulszky, most
genial, most large-hearted of philosophers and friends! I
can’t say “guides,” for though he
was both the first, he was not the last, differing
widely as we did upon perhaps not most,
but at all events many large subjects.
I had known the lady whom Pulszky
married in Vienna many years previously, and long
before he knew her. She was the daughter of that
highly cultivated Jewish family of whom I have spoken
before. When I first knew her she was as pretty
and charming a young girl as could be imagined.
She was possessed then of all the accomplishments that
can adorn a girl at that period of life. Later
on she showed that she was gifted with sense, knowledge,
energy, firmness, courage and caractère in
a degree very uncommon. Since leaving Vienna I
had neither seen nor heard more of her, till she came
to live with her husband and family of children in
Florence. But our old acquaintanceship was readily
and naturally renewed, and his villa near the city
became one of the houses I best loved to frequent.
She had at that time, and even well-nigh I take it
in those old days at Vienna, abandoned all seeming
of conformity to the practices of the faith she was
born in.
I used to say of Pulszky that he was
like a barrel full to the bung with generous liquor,
which flowed in a full stream, stick the spigot in
where you would. He was is, I am happy
to say is the proper tense In his case a
most many-sided man. His talk on artistic subjects,
mainly historical and biographical, was abundant and
most amusing. His antiquarian knowledge was large.
His ethnographical learning, theories, and speculations
were always interesting and often most suggestive.
Years had, I think, put some water in the wine of his
political ideas, but not enough to prevent differences
between us on such subjects. He was withal there
again I mean “is,” for I am sure that
years and the air of his beloved Pesth cannot have
put any water in that generous and genial wine a
fellow of infinite jest, and full of humour; in a
word, one of the fullest and most delightful companions
I have ever known. He talked English with no further
accent than served to add a raciness to the flavour
of his conversation; and every morning of one fixed
day in the week he used to come to Ricorboli for what
he called a tobacco parliament.
I used frequently to spend the evening
at his villa, where one met a somewhat extraordinary
cosmopolitan gathering. Generally we had some
good music; for Madame Pulszky was unhappily
in her case the past tense is needed a
very perfect musician. Among other people more
or less off the world’s beaten track, I used
to meet there a very extraordinary Russian, who had
accomplished the rare feat of escaping from Siberia.
He was a Nihilist of the most uncompromising type;
a huge, shaggy man, with an unkempt head and chest
like those of a bear; and by his side more
or less there was a pretty, petite,
dainty little young wife beauty and the
beast, if ever that storied couple were seen in the
flesh!
Many years afterwards when I and my
wife saw Pulszky at Pesth, and were talking of old
times, he reminded me of this person; and on my doubting
that any man in his senses could believe in the practicability
of the extreme Nihilist theories, he instanced our
old acquaintance, saying, “Yes, there is a man,
who in his very inmost conscience believes that no
good of any sort can be achieved for humanity till
the sponge shall have been passed over all that
men have instituted and done, and a perfect tabula
rasa has been substituted for it!”
I have many letters from Pulszky,
written most of them after his return to Pesth, and
for the most part too much occupied with the persons
and politics of that recent day to be fit for publication.
Here is one, written before he left
Florence, which may be given:
“VILLA PETROVICH.
“MY DEAR TROLLOPE, I
am just returned from a long excursion with Boxall
to Arezzo, Cortona, Borgo San Sepolcro,
Città di Castello, Perugia, and Assisi.
We were there for a week, and enjoyed it amazingly.
I am sorry to say that I am not now able to join your
party to Camaldoli, since I must see Garibaldi, and
do not know as yet what I shall do when the war begins,
which might happen during your excursion. I hope
you will drink a glass of water to my remembrance at
La Vernia from the miraculous well, called from the
rocks by my patron saint, St. Francis of Assisi.
I shall come to you on Sunday, and will tell you more
about him. I studied him at Assisi.
“Yours sincerely,
“FR. PULSZKY.”
The following passages may be given
from a long letter, written from Pesth on the 27th
of March, 1869. It is for the most part filled
with remarks on the party politics of the hour, and
persons, many of them still on the scene:
“MY DEAR MRS. AND MR. TROLLOPE, You
don’t believe how glad I was to get a token
of remembrance from you. It seems to me quite
an age since I left Florence, and your letter was
like a voice from a past period. I live here
as a stranger; you would not recognise me. I talk
nothing but politics and business. There is not
a man with whom I could speak in the way that we did
on Sundays at your villa. I am of course much
with old Deak. I often dine with him. I know
all his anecdotes and jokes by heart. He likes
it, if I visit him; but our conversation remains within
the narrow limits of party politics and the topics
of the day. Sometimes I spend an evening with
Baron Eotvoes, the Minister of Public Instruction,
my old friend; and there only we get both warm in
remembering the days of our youth, and building chateaux
en Espagne for the future of the country.
Eotvoes has appointed me Director of the National
Museum, which contains a library of 180,000 volumes,
mostly Hungarian; a very indifferent picture gallery,
with a few good pictures and plenty of rubbish; a
poor collection of antiquities; splendid mediaeval
goldsmith work; arms, coins, and some miserable statues;
a good collection of stuffed birds; an excellent one
of butterflies; a celebrated one of beetles, and good
specimens for geology and mineralogy. But all
this collection is badly, if at all, catalogued; badly
arranged; and until now we have in a great palace
an appropriation of only 1,200_l._ a year. I shall
have much to do there as much as any minister
in his office, if politics leave me the necessary
time for it.
[Then follows a quantity of details
about the party politics of the day. And then
he continues: ]
“Such a contested election with
us costs about 2,000_l._ to 3,000_l._ I must say I
never spent money with more regret than this; but I
had to maintain the party interest and my family influence
in my electoral district. I have there a fine
old castle and a splendid park, but I rarely go to
the country, since I have jumped, as you know, once
more into the whirlpool of politics, and can’t
get out again. An agrarian communistic agitation
has been initiated, I do not know whether with or
without the sanction of S , but
certainly it has spread rapidly over a great portion
of the country, and I doubt whether Government has
the energy for putting that agitation down. It
is a very serious question, especially as it finds
us engaged in many other questions of the highest
interest.
[Then he gives an outline of the position
of Hungary in relation to other States, and then he
continues: ]
“We remain still in opposition
with the Wallachians, or, as they now like to call
themselves, Rumanes, and we try to maintain the peace
with Prussia. And now when we should concentrate
all our forces to meet the changes which threaten
us, a stupid and wicked Opposition divides the nation
into two hostile camps [how very singular and unexampled!].
We fight one another to the great pleasure of Russia
and Prussia, who enjoy our fratricidal feuds as the
Romans in the amphitheatre enjoyed the fights of the
barbarians in the arena.
“I must beg your pardon, dear
Mrs. Trollope, that I grow so pathetic! You know
it is not my custom when I am with ladies. But
you must know likewise that I live now outside of
female society. I do not exactly know whether
it is my fault or that of the ladies of Pesth; so much
is certain that only at Vienna, where I go from time
to time, I call upon ladies. As to my children,
Augustus, whom you scarcely know, is a volunteer in
the army according to our law of universal conscription.
Charles you may have seen at Florence. I sent
him thither to visit his grandmother.” [Madame
Walter, the mother of Madame Pulszky; the lady who
had received us with such pleasant hospitality at Vienna,
and who had come to reside at Florence, where she
lived to a great age much liked and respected.] “Polixena
gets handsome and clever; little Garibaldi is to go
to school in September next. I grow old, discontented,
insupportable;” [we found him at Pesth many years
afterwards no one of the three!]; “a journey
to Greece and Italy would certainly do me immense
good; but I fear I must give up that plan for the
present year, since after a contested election it is
a serious thing to spend money for amusement.
In June I shall leave my present lodging and go to
the Museum, which stands in a handsome square opposite
to the House of Parliament. Excuse me for my long,
long talk; and do not forget your faithful friend,
in partibus infidelium,
“FR. PULSZKY.”
On the 26th of March, 1870, he writes
a letter which was brought to us by his son, the Augustus
mentioned in the letter I have just transcribed.
“MY DEAR MRS. AND MR. TROLLOPE, Detained
by Parliamentary duties and the management of my own
affairs, I am still unable to make a trip to Italy
to visit my friends, who made the time of my exile
more agreeable to me than my own country. But
I send in my stead a second edition of the old Pulszky,
revised and corrected ad usum Delphini, though
I do not doubt that you prefer the old book, to which
you were accustomed. My son Augustus has now
finished his studies, and is D.E.L. in
a few days Lieutenant in the reserve, and Secretary
at the Ministry of Finance. Few young men begin
their career in a more promising way. As to myself,
Augustus will tell you more than I could write.
I have remained too long in foreign countries to feel
entirely at home at Pesth, where people know how to
make use of everybody. I am M.P., belong to the
Finance Committee, am Chairman of the Committee of
Foreign Affairs in the Delegation, Director of the
Museum, Chairman of the Philological Section in the
Academy of Sciences, Chairman of the Society of Fine
Arts, Vice-President of three Insurance Offices, and
Member of the Council of two railroads. This long
list proves sufficiently that my time is taken up
from early morning to night. But my health is
good, despite of the continuous wear and tear.
“During the summer vacations
I wish to go to England. For ten years I have
not been there; and I long to see again a highly civilised
people; else I become myself a barbarian. Still
I am proud of my Hungarians, who really struggle hard,
and not without success, to be more than they are
now the first of the barbarians.
“I have for a long time not
heard of you. Of course, in our correspondence
your letter was the last, not mine. It is my own
fault. But you must excuse me still for one year.
Then I hope I can put myself in a more comfortable
position. For the present I am unable even to
read anything but Hungarian papers, bills, reports,
and business letters. I envy you in your elegant
villa, where you enjoy life! I hope you are both
well, and do not forget your old friend,
“FR. PULSZKY.
“P.S. Augustus will give you a good
photograph of me.”
Here is one other letter of the 13th June, 1872:
“MY DEAR TROLLOPE, What
a pity that my time does not allow me to visit Italy
at any other season than just in summer. We are
in the midst of our canvass for the general elections.
My son Augustus is to be returned for my old place
Szecseny without opposition on the 21st. On the
following day we go to the poll at Gyoengyoes, a borough
which is to send me to Parliament. It is a contested
election, therefore rather troublesome and expensive,
though not too expensive. Parliament meets with
us on the first of September. Thus my holidays
are in July and August. Shall we never have the
pleasure to see you and Mrs. Trollope, to whom I beg
you to give my best regards, here at Pesth? Next
year is the great exhibition at Vienna. Might
it not induce you to visit Vienna, whence by an afternoon
trip you come to Pesth, where I know you would amuse
yourselves to your hearts’ content.
“My children are quite well.
Charles is at the University at Vienna. He despises
politics, and wants to become Professor at the University
of Pesth in ten or twelve years.
“As to me I am well, very busy;
much attacked by the Opposition since I am a dreaded
party man. Besides I have to re-organise the National
Museum, from the library, which has no catalogue, to
the great collections of mineralogy and plants.
We bought the splendid picture gallery of Prince Esterhazy.
This too is under my direction, with a most important
collection of prints and drawings. You see, therefore,
that my time is fully occupied.
“Yours always,
“FR. PULSZKY.”
My wife and I did subsequently visit
our old friend at Pesth, and much enjoyed our brief
stay there and our chat of old times. But the
work of re-organising the Museum was not yet completed.
I do sincerely hope that the task has been brought
to an end by this time, and that I may either in England
or at Pesth once again see Franz Pulszky in the flesh!