HOXTON
LONDON JUNE
Rank odours ride
on every breeze;
Skyward
a hundred towers loom;
And factories throb
and workshops wheeze,
And children
pine in secret gloom.
To squabbling birds
the roofs declaim
Their little
tale of misery;
And, smiling over murk
and shame,
A wild rose
blows by Bermondsey.
Where every traffic-thridden
street
Is ribboned
o’er with shade and shine,
And webbed with wire
and choked with heat;
Where smokes
with fouler smokes entwine;
And where, at evening,
darkling lanes
Fume with
a sickly ribaldry
Above the squalors and
the pains,
A wild rose
blows by Bermondsey.
Somewhere beneath
a nest of tiles
My little
garret window squats,
Staring across the cruel
miles,
And wondering
of kindlier spots.
An organ, just across
the way,
Sobs out
its ragtime melody;
But in my heart it seems
to play:
A wild rose
blows by Bermondsey!
And dreams of happy
morning hills
And woodlands
laced with greenest boughs
Are mine to-day amid
the ills
Of Tooley
Street and wharfside sloughs,
Though Cherry Gardens
reek and roar,
And engines
gasp their horrid glee;
I mark their ugliness
no more:
A wild rose
blows by Bermondsey.
A BASHER’S NIGHT
Hoxton is not merely virile; it is
virulent. Life here hammers in the blood with
something of the insistence of ragtime. The people men,
women, and children are alive, spitefully
alive. You feel that they are ready to do you
damage, with or without reason. Here are antagonism
and desire, stripped for battle. Little children,
of three years old, have the spirit in them; for they
lean from tenement landings that jut over the street,
and, with becoming seriousness, spit upon the passing
pedestrians, every hit scoring two to the marksman.
The colour of Hoxton Street is a tremendous
purple. It springs upon you, as you turn from
Old Street, and envelops you. There are high,
black tenement houses. There are low cottages
and fumbling passages. There are mellow fried-fish
shops at every few yards. There are dirty beer-houses
and a few public-houses. There are numerous cast-off
clothing salons. And there are screeching
Cockney women, raw and raffish, brutalized children,
and men who would survive in the fiercest jungle.
Also there is the Britannia Theatre and Hotel.
The old Brit.! It stands, with Sadler’s
Wells and the Surrey, as one of the oldest homes of
fustian drama. Sadler’s Wells is now a
picture palace, and the Surrey is a two-house Variety
show. The old Brit. held out longest, but even
that is going now. Its annual pantomime was one
of the events of the London Season for the good Bohemian.
Then all the Gallery First Nighters boys and girls
would go down on the last night, which was Benefit
Night for Mrs. Sara Lane, the proprietress. Not
only were bouquets handed up, but the audience showered
upon her tributes in more homely and substantial form.
Here was a fine outlet for the originality of the crowd,
and among the things that were passed over the orchestra-rails
or lowered from boxes and circles were chests of drawers,
pairs of corsets, stockings, pillow-cases, washhand
jugs and basins, hip-baths, old boots, mince-pies,
Christmas puddings, bottles of beer, and various items
of lumber and rubbish which aroused healthy and Homeric
laughter at the moment, but which, set down in print
at a time when Falstaffian humour has departed from
us, may arouse nothing but a curled lip and a rebuke.
But it really was funny to see the stage littered with
these tributes, which, as I say, included objects
which are never exhibited in the light of day to a
mixed company.
But the cream of Hoxton is its yobs.
It is the toughest street in London. I don’t
mean that it is dangerous. But if you want danger,
you have only to ask for it, and it is yours.
It will not be offered you anywhere in London, but
if you do ask for it, Hoxton is the one place where
there is “no waiting,” as the barbers say.
The old Shoreditch Nile is near at hand, and you know
what that was in the old days. Well, Hoxton to-day
does its best to maintain the tradition of “The
Nile.”
Now once upon a time there was a baby-journalist
named Simple Simon. He went down to Hoxton one
evening, after dinner. It had been the good old
English dinner of Simpson’s, preceded by two
vermuths, accompanied by a pint of claret, and covered
in the retreat by four maraschinos. It was a
picturesque night. A clammy fog blanketed the
whole world. It swirled and swirled. Hoxton
Street was a glorious dream, as enticingly indefinite
as an opium-sleep. Simple Simon had an appointment
here. The boys were to be out that night.
Jimmie Flanagan, their leader, had passed the word
to Simon that something would be doing, something worth
being in. For that night was to witness the complete
and enthusiastic bashing of Henry Wiggin, the copper’s
nark, the most loathed and spurned of all creeping
things that creep upon the earth.
Simon walked like a lamb into the
arms of trouble. He strolled along the main street,
peering every yard of his way through the writhing
gloom. Nobody was about. He reached Bell
Yard, and turned into it. Then he heard something.
Something that brought him to a sharp halt. Before
he saw or heard anything more definite, he felt that
he was surrounded. To place direction of sound
was impossible. He heard, from every side, like
the whisper of a load of dead leaves, the rush of rubber
shoes. With some agility he leaped to what he
thought was the clear side, only to take a tight arm
like a rope across his chest and another about his
knees.
“There’s one fer
yew, ’Enry!” cried a spirited voice as
a spirited palm smote him on the nose.
“Hi! Hi! Easy!”
Simon appealed. “I ain’t ’Enry,
dammit! You’re bashing me me Simon!”
He swore rather finely; but the fog, the general confusion,
and, above all, the enthusiasm of bashing rendered
identification by voice impracticable. Indeed,
if any heard it, it had no effect; for, so they had
some one to bash, they would bash. It didn’t
matter to them, just so it was a bash. Flanagan
heard it quite clearly, but he knew the madness of
attempting to stop eleven burly Hoxton yobs once they
were well in....
“I’m not ’Enry.
I ain’t the nark!” But he was turned face
downward, and his mouth was over a gully-hole, so
that his protests scared only the rats in the sewer.
He set his teeth, and writhed and jerked and swung,
and for some seconds no bashing could proceed, for
he was of the stuff of which swordsmen are made small,
lithe, and light: useless in a stand-up fight
with fists, but good for anything in a scrum.
When, however, as at present, eleven happy lads were
seeking each a grip on his person, it became difficult
to defeat their purpose. But at last, as he was
about to make a final wrench at the expense of his
coat, the metal tips on his boots undid him.
He dug his heels backward to get a purchase, he struck
the slippery surface of the kerb instead of the yielding
wood of the roadway, and in a moment he was down beyond
all struggle. A foot landed feelingly against
his ribs, another took him on the face; and for all
that they were rubbered they stung horribly. Then,
with two pairs of feet on his stomach, and two on his
legs, he heard that wild whisper that may unnerve
the stoutest
“Orf wi’ yer belts, boys!”
The bashing of the nark was about
to begin. There was a quick jingle as many leather
belts were loosed, followed by a whistle, and zpt!
he received the accolade of narkhood. Again and
again they came, and they stung and bit, and he could
not move. They spat all about him. He swore
crudely but sincerely, and if oaths have any potency
his tormentors should have withered where they stood.
Two and three at a time they came, for there were
eleven of them Flanagan having discreetly
retired and all were anxious to christen
their nice new belts on the body of the hated nark;
and they did so zealously, while Simon could only
lie still and swear and pray for a happy moment that
should free one of his hands....
He knew it was a mistake, and he kept
his temper so far as possible. But human nature
came out with the weals and bruises. He didn’t
want to do the dirty on them, he didn’t want
to take extreme steps, but dammit, this was the frozen
limit. He knew that when their mistake was pointed
out they would offer lavish apologies and pots of four-’arf,
but the flesh is only the flesh.
“Turn the blanker over!”
In that moment, as he was lifted round,
his left hand was freed. In a flash it fumbled
at his breast. Twisting his head aside, he got
something between his teeth, and through the fetid
fog went the shiver and whine of the Metropolitan
Police Call. Three times he blew, with the correct
inflection.
At the first call he was dropped like
a hot coal. From other worlds came an answering
call. He blew again. Then, like thin jets
of water, whistles spurted from every direction.
He heard the sound of scuttering feet as his enemies
withdrew. He heard the sound of scuttering feet
as they closed in again. But he was not waiting
for trouble. He pulled his burning self together,
and ran for the lights that stammered through the
gloom at the Britannia. He whistled as he ran.
Curses followed him.
At the Britannia he collided with
a slow constable. He flung a story at him.
The constable inspected him, and took notes. The
lurking passages began to brighten with life, and
where, a moment ago, was sick torpidity was now movement,
clamour. Distant whistles still cried. The
place tingled with nervous life.
Some cried “Whassup?”
and some cried “Stanback, cancher!” They
stared, bobbed, inquired, conjectured. The women
were voluble. The men spat. A forest of
faces grew up about Simple Simon. A hurricane
of hands broke about his head. The constable
took notes and whistled. A humorist appeared.
“’Ullo, ’ullo, ’ullo!
Back water there, some of yer. Stop yer shoving.
Ain’t nobody bin asking for me? Stop the
fight. I forbid the bangs!”
But he was not popular. They jostled him.
“’Ere,” cried some
one, “let some one else have a see, Fatty!
Other people wanter have a see, don’t they?”
“Stanback stanback! Why cancher
stanback!”
Fatty inquired if Someone wanted a
smash over the snitch. Because, if so....
A woman held that Simple Simon had
a rummy hat on. There were pauses, while the
crowd waited and shuffled its feet, as between the
acts.
Fatty asked why some one didn’t
do something. Alwis the way, though them
police. Stanback git back on your mat,
Toby.
And then ... and then the swelling,
clamorous, complaining crowd swooped in on itself
with a sudden undeniable movement. Its centre
flattened, wavered, broke, and the impelling force
was brought face to face with Simple Simon and the
constable. It was Flanagan and the boys.
Three pairs of arms collared the constable
low. Simple Simon felt a jerk on his arm that
nearly pulled it from its socket, and a crackling like
sandpaper at his ear. “Bolt for it!”
And he would have done so, but at
that moment the answering whistles leaped to a sharper
volume, and through the distorting fog came antic
shapes of blue, helmeted. The lights of the Britannia
rose up. Panic smote the crowd, and for a moment
there was a fury of feet.
Women screamed. Others cried
for help. Some one cried, “Hot stuff, boys let
’em ’ave it where it ’urts most!”
Fatty cried: “Git orf my
foot! If I find the blank blank blank what trod
on my blank ’and, I’ll !”
“Look out, boys! Truncheons are out!”
They ran, slipped, fell, rolled.
A cold voice from a remote window, remarked, above
the din, that whatever he’d done he’d got
a rummy hat on. A young girl was pinioned against
the wall by a struggling mass for whom there was no
way. There was in the air an imminence of incident,
acid and barbed. The girl screamed. She implored.
Then, with a frantic movement, her free hand flew
to her hat. She withdrew something horrid, and
brought it down, horridly, three times. Three
shrieks flitted from her corner like sparks from a
funnel. But her passage was cleared.
Then some important fool pulled the fire-alarm.
“Stanback, Stinkpot, cancher?
Gawd, if I cop that young ‘un wi’ the
bashed ’elmet, I’ll learn him hell!”
“If I cop ’old of the
blanker what trod on my ’and, I’ll !”
“No, but ’e ’ad a rummy
’at on. ’E ’ad.”
Away distant, one heard the brazen
voice of the fire-engine, clanging danger through
the yellow maze of Hoxton streets. There was the
jangle of harness and bells; the clop-clop of hoofs,
rising to a clatter. There was the scamper of
a thousand feet as the engine swung into the street
with the lordliest flourish and address. Close
behind it a long, lean red thing swayed to and fro,
like some ancient dragon seeking its supper.
“Whichway, whichway, whichway?” it roared.
“Ever bin had?” cried
the humorist. “There ain’t no pleading
fire! This is a picnic, this is. ’Ave
a banana?”
“WhichWAY?” screamed the
engine. “Don’t no one know which way?”
The humorist answered them by a gesture
known in polite circles as a “raspberry.”
Then a constable, with fierce face, battered helmet,
and torn tunic, and with an arm-lock on a perfectly
innocent non-combatant, flung commands in rapid gusts
“This way, Fire. King’s name.
Out hoses!”
The fog rolled and rolled. The
Britannia gleamed on the scene with almost tragic
solemnity. Agonized shapes rushed hither and thither.
Women screamed. Then a rich Irish voice sang loud
above all: “Weeny, boys!”
As the firemen leaped from their perches
on the engine to out hoses, so, mysteriously, did
the combat cease. Constables found themselves,
in a moment, wrestling with thick fog and nothing
more. The boys were gone. Only women screamed.
Some one said: “If I cop
a hold of the blankety blank blanker what trod on
my blanking ’and, I’ll just about !”
On the word “Weeny” Simple
Simon was once again jerked by the arm, and hustled
furiously down passages, round corners, and through
alleyways, finally to be flung into the misty radiance
of Shoreditch High Street, with the terse farewell:
“Now run for the love of glory, run!”
But he didn’t. He stood
still against a friendly wall, and suffered. He
straightened his dress. He touched sore places
with a tender solicitude. His head was racking.
All his limbs ached and burned. He desired nothing
but the cold sheets of his bed and a bottle of embrocation.
He swore at the fog, with a fine relish for the colour
of sounds. He swore at things that were in no
way responsible for his misfortune. Somewhere,
he conjectured, in warmth and safety, Henry Wiggin,
the copper’s nark, was perfectly enjoying his
supper of fried fish and ’taters and stout.
And then, over the sad, yellow night,
faint and sweet and far away, as the memory of childhood,
came a still small voice
“No, but ’e ’ad a rummy ’at
on, eh?”