CHAPTER I
THE LAND IMPOVERISHED BY THE SEA-
Paris casts twenty-five millions yearly
into the water. And this without metaphor.
How, and in what manner? Day and night. With
what object? With no object. With what intention?
With no intention. Why? For no reason.
By means of what organ? By means of its intestine.
What is its intestine? The sewer.
Twenty-five millions is the most moderate
approximative figure which the valuations of special
science have set upon it.
Science, after having long groped
about, now knows that the most fecundating and the
most efficacious of fertilizers is human manure.
The Chinese, let us confess it to our shame, knew it
before us. Not a Chinese peasant it
is Eckberg who says this, goes to town without
bringing back with him, at the two extremities of his
bamboo pole, two full buckets of what we designate
as filth. Thanks to human dung, the earth in
China is still as young as in the days of Abraham.
Chinese wheat yields a hundred fold of the seed.
There is no guano comparable in fertility with the
detritus of a capital. A great city is the most
mighty of dung-makers. Certain success would attend
the experiment of employing the city to manure the
plain. If our gold is manure, our manure, on
the other hand, is gold.
What is done with this golden manure?
It is swept into the abyss.
Fleets of vessels are despatched,
at great expense, to collect the dung of pétrels
and penguins at the South Pole, and the incalculable
element of opulence which we have on hand, we send
to the sea. All the human and animal manure which
the world wastes, restored to the land instead of
being cast into the water, would suffice to nourish
the world.
Those heaps of filth at the gate-posts,
those tumbrils of mud which jolt through the street
by night, those terrible casks of the street department,
those fetid drippings of subterranean mire, which the
pavements hide from you, do you know what
they are? They are the meadow in flower, the
green grass, wild thyme, thyme and sage, they are game,
they are cattle, they are the satisfied bellows of
great oxen in the evening, they are perfumed hay,
they are golden wheat, they are the bread on your
table, they are the warm blood in your veins, they
are health, they are joy, they are life. This
is the will of that mysterious creation which is transformation
on earth and transfiguration in heaven.
Restore this to the great crucible;
your abundance will flow forth from it. The nutrition
of the plains furnishes the nourishment of men.
You have it in your power to lose
this wealth, and to consider me ridiculous to boot.
This will form the master-piece of your ignorance.
Statisticians have calculated that
France alone makes a deposit of half a milliard every
year, in the Atlantic, through the mouths of her rivers.
Note this: with five hundred millions we could
pay one quarter of the expenses of our budget.
The cleverness of man is such that he prefers to get
rid of these five hundred millions in the gutter.
It is the very substance of the people that is carried
off, here drop by drop, there wave after wave, the
wretched outpour of our sewers into the rivers, and
the gigantic collection of our rivers into the ocean.
Every hiccough of our sewers costs us a thousand francs.
From this spring two results, the land impoverished,
and the water tainted. Hunger arising from the
furrow, and disease from the stream.
It is notorious, for example, that
at the present hour, the Thames is poisoning London.
So far as Paris is concerned, it has
become indispensable of late, to transport the mouths
of the sewers down stream, below the last bridge.
A double tubular apparatus, provided
with valves and sluices, sucking up and driving back,
a system of elementary drainage, simple as the lungs
of a man, and which is already in full working order
in many communities in England, would suffice to conduct
the pure water of the fields into our cities, and
to send back to the fields the rich water of the cities,
and this easy exchange, the simplest in the world,
would retain among us the five hundred millions now
thrown away. People are thinking of other things.
The process actually in use does evil,
with the intention of doing good. The intention
is good, the result is melancholy. Thinking to
purge the city, the population is blanched like plants
raised in cellars. A sewer is a mistake.
When drainage, everywhere, with its double function,
restoring what it takes, shall have replaced the sewer,
which is a simple impoverishing washing, then, this
being combined with the data of a now social economy,
the product of the earth will be increased tenfold,
and the problem of misery will be singularly lightened.
Add the suppression of parasitism, and it will be
solved.
In the meanwhile, the public wealth
flows away to the river, and leakage takes place.
Leakage is the word. Europe is being ruined in
this manner by exhaustion.
As for France, we have just cited
its figures. Now, Paris contains one twenty-fifth
of the total population of France, and Parisian guano
being the richest of all, we understate the truth
when we value the loss on the part of Paris at twenty-five
millions in the half milliard which France annually
rejects. These twenty-five millions, employed
in assistance and enjoyment, would double the splendor
of Paris. The city spends them in sewers.
So that we may say that Paris’s great prodigality,
its wonderful festival, its Beaujon folly, its orgy,
its stream of gold from full hands, its pomp, its
luxury, its magnificence, is its sewer system.
It is in this manner that, in the
blindness of a poor political economy, we drown and
allow to float down stream and to be lost in the gulfs
the well-being of all. There should be nets at
Saint-Cloud for the public fortune.
Economically considered, the matter
can be summed up thus: Paris is a spendthrift.
Paris, that model city, that patron of well-arranged
capitals, of which every nation strives to possess
a copy, that metropolis of the ideal, that august
country of the initiative, of impulse and of effort,
that centre and that dwelling of minds, that nation-city,
that hive of the future, that marvellous combination
of Babylon and Corinth, would make a peasant of the
Fo-Kian shrug his shoulders, from the point of view
which we have just indicated.
Imitate Paris and you will ruin yourselves.
Moreover, and particularly in this
immemorial and senseless waste, Paris is itself an
imitator.
These surprising exhibitions of stupidity
are not novel; this is no young folly. The ancients
did like the moderns. “The sewers of Rome,”
says Liebig, “have absorbed all the well-being
of the Roman peasant.” When the Campagna
of Rome was ruined by the Roman sewer, Rome exhausted
Italy, and when she had put Italy in her sewer, she
poured in Sicily, then Sardinia, then Africa.
The sewer of Rome has engulfed the world. This
cess-pool offered its engulfment to the city and the
universe. Urbi et orbi. Eternal city, unfathomable
sewer.
Rome sets the example for these things
as well as for others.
Paris follows this example with all
the stupidity peculiar to intelligent towns.
For the requirements of the operation
upon the subject of which we have just explained our
views, Paris has beneath it another Paris; a Paris
of sewers; which has its streets, its cross-roads,
its squares, its blind-alleys, its arteries, and its
circulation, which is of mire and minus the human
form.
For nothing must be flattered, not
even a great people; where there is everything there
is also ignominy by the side of sublimity; and, if
Paris contains Athens, the city of light, Tyre, the
city of might, Sparta, the city of virtue, Nineveh,
the city of marvels, it also contains Lutetia, the
city of mud.
However, the stamp of its power is
there also, and the Titanic sink of Paris realizes,
among monuments, that strange ideal realized in humanity
by some men like Macchiavelli, Bacon and Mirabeau,
grandiose vileness.
The sub-soil of Paris, if the eye
could penetrate its surface, would present the aspect
of a colossal madrepore. A sponge has no more
partitions and ducts than the mound of earth for a
circuit of six leagues round about, on which rests
the great and ancient city. Not to mention its
catacombs, which are a separate cellar, not to mention
the inextricable trellis-work of gas pipes, without
reckoning the vast tubular system for the distribution
of fresh water which ends in the pillar fountains,
the sewers alone form a tremendous, shadowy net-work
under the two banks; a labyrinth which has its slope
for its guiding thread.
There appears, in the humid mist,
the rat which seems the product to which Paris has
given birth.
Chapter II
ancient history of the sewer
Let the reader imagine Paris lifted
off like a cover, the subterranean net-work of sewers,
from a bird’s eye view, will outline on the banks
a species of large branch grafted on the river.
On the right bank, the belt sewer will form the trunk
of this branch, the secondary ducts will form the
branches, and those without exit the twigs.
This figure is but a summary one and
half exact, the right angle, which is the customary
angle of this species of subterranean ramifications,
being very rare in vegetation.
A more accurate image of this strange
geometrical plan can be formed by supposing that one
is viewing some eccentric oriental alphabet, as intricate
as a thicket, against a background of shadows, and
the misshapen letters should be welded one to another
in apparent confusion, and as at haphazard, now by
their angles, again by their extremities.
Sinks and sewers played a great part
in the Middle Ages, in the Lower Empire and in the
Orient of old. The masses regarded these beds
of decomposition, these monstrous cradles of death,
with a fear that was almost religious. The vermin
ditch of Benares is no less conducive to giddiness
than the lions’ ditch of Babylon. Teglath-Phalasar,
according to the rabbinical books, swore by the sink
of Nineveh. It was from the sewer of Munster
that John of Leyden produced his false moon, and it
was from the cess-pool of Kekscheb that oriental menalchme,
Mokanna, the veiled prophet of Khorassan, caused his
false sun to emerge.
The history of men is reflected in
the history of sewers. The Germoniae narrated
Rome. The sewer of Paris has been an ancient and
formidable thing. It has been a sepulchre, it
has served as an asylum. Crime, intelligence,
social protest, liberty of conscience, thought, theft,
all that human laws persecute or have persecuted, is
hidden in that hole; the maillotins in the fourteenth
century, the tire-laine of the fifteenth,
the Huguenots in the sixteenth, Morin’s illuminated
in the seventeenth, the chauffeurs [brigands] in the
eighteenth. A hundred years ago, the nocturnal
blow of the dagger emerged thence, the pickpocket
in danger slipped thither; the forest had its cave,
Paris had its sewer. Vagrancy, that Gallic picareria,
accepted the sewer as the adjunct of the Cour
des Miracles, and at evening, it returned
thither, fierce and sly, through the Maubuee outlet,
as into a bed-chamber.
It was quite natural, that those who
had the blind-alley Vide-Gousset, [Empty-Pocket]
or the Rue Coupe-Gorge [Cut-Throat], for the scene
of their daily labor, should have for their domicile
by night the culvert of the Chemin-Vert, or the catch
basin of Hurepoix. Hence a throng of souvenirs.
All sorts of phantoms haunt these long, solitary corridors;
everywhere is putrescence and miasma; here and there
are breathing-holes, where Villon within converses
with Rabelais without.
The sewer in ancient Paris is the
rendezvous of all exhaustions and of all attempts.
Political economy therein spies a detritus, social
philosophy there beholds a residuum.
The sewer is the conscience of the
city. Everything there converges and confronts
everything else. In that livid spot there are
shades, but there are no longer any secrets.
Each thing bears its true form, or at least, its definitive
form. The mass of filth has this in its favor,
that it is not a liar. Ingenuousness has taken
refuge there. The mask of Basil is to be found
there, but one beholds its cardboard and its strings
and the inside as well as the outside, and it is accentuated
by honest mud. Scapin’s false nose is its
next-door neighbor. All the uncleannesses of
civilization, once past their use, fall into this
trench of truth, where the immense social sliding ends.
They are there engulfed, but they display themselves
there. This mixture is a confession. There,
no more false appearances, no plastering over is possible,
filth removes its shirt, absolute denudation puts to
the rout all illusions and mirages, there is nothing
more except what really exists, presenting the sinister
form of that which is coming to an end. There,
the bottom of a bottle indicates drunkenness, a basket-handle
tells a tale of domesticity; there the core of an apple
which has entertained literary opinions becomes an
apple-core once more; the effigy on the big sou becomes
frankly covered with verdigris, Caiphas’ spittle
meets Falstaff’s puking, the louis-d’or
which comes from the gaming-house jostles the nail
whence hangs the rope’s end of the suicide.
A livid foetus rolls along, enveloped in the spangles
which danced at the Opera last Shrove-Tuesday, a cap
which has pronounced judgment on men wallows beside
a mass of rottenness which was formerly Margoton’s
petticoat; it is more than fraternization, it is equivalent
to addressing each other as thou. All which was
formerly rouged, is washed free. The last veil
is torn away. A sewer is a cynic. It tells
everything.
The sincerity of foulness pleases
us, and rests the soul. When one has passed one’s
time in enduring upon earth the spectacle of the great
airs which reasons of state, the oath, political sagacity,
human justice, professional probity, the austerities
of situation, incorruptible robes all assume, it solaces
one to enter a sewer and to behold the mire which
befits it.
This is instructive at the same time.
We have just said that history passes through the
sewer. The Saint-Barthelemys filter through there,
drop by drop, between the paving-stones. Great
public assassinations, political and religious butcheries,
traverse this underground passage of civilization,
and thrust their corpses there. For the eye of
the thinker, all historic murderers are to be found
there, in that hideous penumbra, on their knees, with
a scrap of their winding-sheet for an apron, dismally
sponging out their work. Louis XI. is there with
Tristan, Francois I. with Duprat, Charles IX. is there
with his mother, Richelieu is there with Louis XIII.,
Louvois is there, Letellier is there, Hebert and Maillard
are there, scratching the stones, and trying to make
the traces of their actions disappear. Beneath
these vaults one hears the brooms of spectres.
One there breathes the enormous fetidness of social
catastrophes. One beholds reddish reflections
in the corners. There flows a terrible stream,
in which bloody hands have been washed.
The social observer should enter these
shadows. They form a part of his laboratory.
Philosophy is the microscope of the thought. Everything
desires to flee from it, but nothing escapes it.
Tergiversation is useless. What side of oneself
does one display in evasions? the shameful side.
Philosophy pursues with its glance, probes the evil,
and does not permit it to escape into nothingness.
In the obliteration of things which disappear, in
the watching of things which vanish, it recognizes
all. It reconstructs the purple from the rag,
and the woman from the scrap of her dress. From
the cess-pool, it re-constitutes the city; from mud,
it reconstructs manners; from the potsherd it infers
the amphora or the jug. By the imprint of a finger-nail
on a piece of parchment, it recognizes the difference
which separates the Jewry of the Judengasse from the
Jewry of the Ghetto. It re-discovers in what remains
that which has been, good, evil, the true, the blood-stain
of the palace, the ink-blot of the cavern, the drop
of sweat from the brothel, trials undergone, temptations
welcomed, orgies cast forth, the turn which characters
have taken as they became abased, the trace of prostitution
in souls of which their grossness rendered them capable,
and on the vesture of the porters of Rome the mark
of Messalina’s elbowing.
Chapter III
Bruneseau
The sewer of Paris in the Middle Ages
was legendary. In the sixteenth century, Henri
II. attempted a bore, which failed. Not a hundred
years ago, the cess-pool, Mercier attests the fact,
was abandoned to itself, and fared as best it might.
Such was this ancient Paris, delivered
over to quarrels, to indecision, and to gropings.
It was tolerably stupid for a long time. Later
on, ’89 showed how understanding comes to cities.
But in the good, old times, the capital had not much
head. It did not know how to manage its own affairs
either morally or materially, and could not sweep out
filth any better than it could abuses. Everything
presented an obstacle, everything raised a question.
The sewer, for example, was refractory to every itinerary.
One could no more find one’s bearings in the
sewer than one could understand one’s position
in the city; above the unintelligible, below the inextricable;
beneath the confusion of tongues there reigned the
confusion of caverns; Daedalus backed up Babel.
Sometimes the Paris sewer took a notion
to overflow, as though this misunderstood Nile were
suddenly seized with a fit of rage. There occurred,
infamous to relate, inundations of the sewer.
At times, that stomach of civilization digested badly,
the cess-pool flowed back into the throat of the city,
and Paris got an after-taste of her own filth.
These resemblances of the sewer to remorse had their
good points; they were warnings; very badly accepted,
however; the city waxed indignant at the audacity
of its mire, and did not admit that the filth should
return. Drive it out better.
The inundation of 1802 is one of the
actual memories of Parisians of the age of eighty.
The mud spread in cross-form over the Place des
Victoires, where stands the statue of Louis XIV.;
it entered the Rue Saint-Honore by the two mouths
to the sewer in the Champs-Elysees, the Rue Saint-Florentin
through the Saint-Florentin sewer, the Rue Pierre-a-Poisson
through the sewer de la Sonnerie, the
Rue Popincourt, through the sewer of the Chemin-Vert,
the Rue de la Roquette, through the
sewer of the Rue de Lappe; it covered the drain of
the Rue des Champs-Elysees to the height of thirty-five
centimetres; and, to the South, through the vent of
the Seine, performing its functions in inverse sense,
it penetrated the Rue Mazarine, the Rue de l’Echaude,
and the Rue des Marais, where it stopped
at a distance of one hundred and nine metres, a few
paces distant from the house in which Racine had lived,
respecting, in the seventeenth century, the poet more
than the King. It attained its maximum depth
in the Rue Saint-Pierre, where it rose to the height
of three feet above the flag-stones of the water-spout,
and its maximum length in the Rue Saint-Sabin, where
it spread out over a stretch two hundred and thirty-eight
metres in length.
At the beginning of this century,
the sewer of Paris was still a mysterious place.
Mud can never enjoy a good fame; but in this case its
evil renown reached the verge of the terrible.
Paris knew, in a confused way, that she had under
her a terrible cavern. People talked of it as
of that monstrous bed of Thebes in which swarmed centipedes
fifteen long feet in length, and which might have
served Behemoth for a bathtub. The great boots
of the sewermen never ventured further than certain
well-known points. We were then very near the
epoch when the scavenger’s carts, from the summit
of which Sainte-Foix fraternized with the Marquis
de Crequi, discharged their loads directly into the
sewer. As for cleaning out, that function
was entrusted to the pouring rains which encumbered
rather than swept away. Rome left some poetry
to her sewer, and called it the Gemoniae; Paris insulted
hers, and entitled it the Polypus-Hole. Science
and superstition were in accord, in horror. The
Polypus hole was no less repugnant to hygiene than
to legend. The goblin was developed under the
fetid covering of the Mouffetard sewer; the corpses
of the Marmousets had been cast into the sewer
de la Barillerie; Fagon attributed the redoubtable
malignant fever of 1685 to the great hiatus of the
sewer of the Marais, which remained yawning until
1833 in the Rue Saint-Louis, almost opposite the sign
of the Gallant Messenger. The mouth of the sewer
of the Rue de la Mortellerie was celebrated for the
pestilences which had their source there; with its
grating of iron, with points simulating a row of teeth,
it was like a dragon’s maw in that fatal street,
breathing forth hell upon men. The popular imagination
seasoned the sombre Parisian sink with some indescribably
hideous intermixture of the infinite. The sewer
had no bottom. The sewer was the lower world.
The idea of exploring these leprous regions did not
even occur to the police. To try that unknown
thing, to cast the plummet into that shadow, to set
out on a voyage of discovery in that abyss who
would have dared? It was alarming. Nevertheless,
some one did present himself. The cess-pool had
its Christopher Columbus.
One day, in 1805, during one of the
rare apparitions which the Emperor made in Paris,
the Minister of the Interior, some Decres or Cretet
or other, came to the master’s intimate levee.
In the Carrousel there was audible the clanking of
swords of all those extraordinary soldiers of the
great Republic, and of the great Empire; then Napoleon’s
door was blocked with heroes; men from the Rhine,
from the Escaut, from the Adige, and from the Nile;
companions of Joubert, of Desaix, of Marceau, of Hoche,
of Kleber; the aerostiers of Fleurus, the grenadiers
of Mayence, the pontoon-builders of Genoa, hussars
whom the Pyramids had looked down upon, artillerists
whom Junot’s cannon-ball had spattered with
mud, cuirassiers who had taken by assault the
fleet lying at anchor in the Zuyderzee; some had followed
Bonaparte upon the bridge of Lodi, others had accompanied
Murat in the trenches of Mantua, others had preceded
Lannes in the hollow road of Montebello. The whole
army of that day was present there, in the court-yard
of the Tuileries, represented by a squadron or a platoon,
and guarding Napoleon in repose; and that was the
splendid epoch when the grand army had Marengo behind
it and Austerlitz before it. “Sire,”
said the Minister of the Interior to Napoleon, “yesterday
I saw the most intrepid man in your Empire.” “What
man is that?” said the Emperor brusquely, “and
what has he done?” “He wants
to do something, Sire.” “What
is it?” “To visit the sewers
of Paris.”
This man existed and his name was Bruneseau.
Chapter IV
Bruneseau.-
The visit took place. It was
a formidable campaign; a nocturnal battle against
pestilence and suffocation. It was, at the same
time, a voyage of discovery. One of the survivors
of this expedition, an intelligent workingman, who
was very young at the time, related curious details
with regard to it, several years ago, which Bruneseau
thought himself obliged to omit in his report to the
prefect of police, as unworthy of official style.
The processes of disinfection were, at that epoch,
extremely rudimentary. Hardly had Bruneseau crossed
the first articulations of that subterranean network,
when eight laborers out of the twenty refused to go
any further. The operation was complicated; the
visit entailed the necessity of cleaning; hence it
was necessary to cleanse and at the same time, to
proceed; to note the entrances of water, to count the
gratings and the vents, to lay out in detail the branches,
to indicate the currents at the point where they parted,
to define the respective bounds of the divers basins,
to sound the small sewers grafted on the principal
sewer, to measure the height under the key-stone of
each drain, and the width, at the spring of the vaults
as well as at the bottom, in order to determine the
arrangements with regard to the level of each water-entrance,
either of the bottom of the arch, or on the soil of
the street. They advanced with toil. The
lanterns pined away in the foul atmosphere. From
time to time, a fainting sewerman was carried out.
At certain points, there were precipices. The
soil had given away, the pavement had crumbled, the
sewer had changed into a bottomless well; they found
nothing solid; a man disappeared suddenly; they had
great difficulty in getting him out again. On
the advice of Fourcroy, they lighted large cages filled
with tow steeped in resin, from time to time, in spots
which had been sufficiently disinfected. In some
places, the wall was covered with misshapen fungi, one
would have said tumors; the very stone seemed diseased
within this unbreathable atmosphere.
Bruneseau, in his exploration, proceeded
down hill. At the point of separation of the
two water-conduits of the Grand-Hurleur, he deciphered
upon a projecting stone the date of 1550; this stone
indicated the limits where Philibert Delorme, charged
by Henri II. with visiting the subterranean drains
of Paris, had halted. This stone was the mark
of the sixteenth century on the sewer; Bruneseau found
the handiwork of the seventeenth century once more
in the Ponceau drain of the old Rue Vielle-du-Temple,
vaulted between 1600 and 1650; and the handiwork of
the eighteenth in the western section of the collecting
canal, walled and vaulted in 1740. These two
vaults, especially the less ancient, that of 1740,
were more cracked and decrepit than the masonry of
the belt sewer, which dated from 1412, an epoch when
the brook of fresh water of Menilmontant was elevated
to the dignity of the Grand Sewer of Paris, an advancement
analogous to that of a peasant who should become first
valet de chambre to the King; something
like Gros-Jean transformed into Lebel.
Here and there, particularly beneath
the Court-House, they thought they recognized the
hollows of ancient dungeons, excavated in the very
sewer itself. Hideous place! An iron neck-collar
was hanging in one of these cells. They walled
them all up. Some of their finds were singular;
among others, the skeleton of an ourang-outan, who
had disappeared from the Jardin des Plantes
in 1800, a disappearance probably connected with the
famous and indisputable apparition of the devil in
the Rue des Bernardins, in the last year of the
eighteenth century. The poor devil had ended
by drowning himself in the sewer.
Beneath this long, arched drain which
terminated at the Arche-Marion, a perfectly preserved
rag-picker’s basket excited the admiration of
all connoisseurs. Everywhere, the mire, which
the sewermen came to handle with intrepidity, abounded
in precious objects, jewels of gold and silver, precious
stones, coins. If a giant had filtered this cesspool,
he would have had the riches of centuries in his lair.
At the point where the two branches of the Rue du
Temple and of the Rue Sainte-Avoye separate, they
picked up a singular Huguenot medal in copper, bearing
on one side the pig hooded with a cardinal’s
hat, and on the other, a wolf with a tiara on his
head.
The most surprising encounter was
at the entrance to the Grand Sewer. This entrance
had formerly been closed by a grating of which nothing
but the hinges remained. From one of these hinges
hung a dirty and shapeless rag which, arrested there
in its passage, no doubt, had floated there in the
darkness and finished its process of being torn apart.
Bruneseau held his lantern close to this rag and examined
it. It was of very fine batiste, and in one of
the corners, less frayed than the rest, they made
out a heraldic coronet and embroidered above these
seven letters: LAVBESP. The crown was the
coronet of a Marquis, and the seven letters signified
Laubespine. They recognized the fact, that what
they had before their eyes was a morsel of the shroud
of Marat. Marat in his youth had had amorous
intrigues. This was when he was a member of the
household of the Comte d’Artois, in the capacity
of physician to the Stables. From these love
affairs, historically proved, with a great lady, he
had retained this sheet. As a waif or a souvenir.
At his death, as this was the only linen of any fineness
which he had in his house, they buried him in it.
Some old women had shrouded him for the tomb in that
swaddling-band in which the tragic Friend of the people
had enjoyed voluptuousness. Bruneseau passed
on. They left that rag where it hung; they did
not put the finishing touch to it. Did this arise
from scorn or from respect? Marat deserved both.
And then, destiny was there sufficiently stamped to
make them hesitate to touch it. Besides, the
things of the sepulchre must be left in the spot which
they select. In short, the relic was a strange
one. A Marquise had slept in it; Marat had rotted
in it; it had traversed the Pantheon to end with the
rats of the sewer. This chamber rag, of which
Watteau would formerly have joyfully sketched every
fold, had ended in becoming worthy of the fixed gaze
of Dante.
The whole visit to the subterranean
stream of filth of Paris lasted seven years, from
1805 to 1812. As he proceeded, Bruneseau drew,
directed, and completed considerable works; in 1808
he lowered the arch of the Ponceau, and, everywhere
creating new lines, he pushed the sewer, in 1809,
under the Rue Saint-Denis as far as the fountain of
the Innocents; in 1810, under the Rue Froidmanteau
and under the Salpetrière; in 1811 under the Rue Neuve-des-Petits-Peres,
under the Rue du Mail, under the Rue de l’Echarpe,
under the Place Royale; in 1812, under the
Rue de la Paix, and under the Chaussee d’Antin.
At the same time, he had the whole net-work disinfected
and rendered healthful. In the second year of
his work, Bruneseau engaged the assistance of his
son-in-law Nargaud.
It was thus that, at the beginning
of the century, ancient society cleansed its double
bottom, and performed the toilet of its sewer.
There was that much clean, at all events.
Tortuous, cracked, unpaved, full of
fissures, intersected by gullies, jolted by eccentric
elbows, mounting and descending illogically, fetid,
wild, fierce, submerged in obscurity, with cicatrices
on its pavements and scars on its walls, terrible, such
was, retrospectively viewed, the antique sewer of
Paris. Ramifications in every direction, crossings,
of trenches, branches, goose-feet, stars, as in military
mines, coecum, blind alleys, vaults lined with saltpetre,
pestiferous pools, scabby sweats, on the walls, drops
dripping from the ceilings, darkness; nothing could
equal the horror of this old, waste crypt, the digestive
apparatus of Babylon, a cavern, ditch, gulf pierced
with streets, a titanic mole-burrow, where the mind
seems to behold that enormous blind mole, the past,
prowling through the shadows, in the filth which has
been splendor.
This, we repeat, was the sewer of the past.
Chapter V
present progress
To-day the sewer is clean, cold, straight,
correct. It almost realizes the ideal of what
is understood in England by the word “respectable.”
It is proper and grayish; laid out by rule and line;
one might almost say as though it came out of a bandbox.
It resembles a tradesman who has become a councillor
of state. One can almost see distinctly there.
The mire there comports itself with decency.
At first, one might readily mistake it for one of
those subterranean corridors, which were so common
in former days, and so useful in flights of monarchs
and princes, in those good old times, “when
the people loved their kings.” The present
sewer is a beautiful sewer; the pure style reigns there;
the classical rectilinear alexandrine which, driven
out of poetry, appears to have taken refuge in architecture,
seems mingled with all the stones of that long, dark
and whitish vault; each outlet is an arcade; the Rue
de Rivoli serves as pattern even in the sewer.
However, if the geometrical line is in place anywhere,
it is certainly in the drainage trench of a great
city. There, everything should be subordinated
to the shortest road. The sewer has, nowadays,
assumed a certain official aspect. The very police
reports, of which it sometimes forms the subject, no
longer are wanting in respect towards it. The
words which characterize it in administrative language
are sonorous and dignified. What used to be called
a gut is now called a gallery; what used to be called
a hole is now called a surveying orifice. Villon
would no longer meet with his ancient temporary provisional
lodging. This net-work of cellars has its immemorial
population of prowlers, rodents, swarming in greater
numbers than ever; from time to time, an aged and
veteran rat risks his head at the window of the sewer
and surveys the Parisians; but even these vermin grow
tame, so satisfied are they with their subterranean
palace. The cesspool no longer retains anything
of its primitive ferocity. The rain, which in
former days soiled the sewer, now washes it. Nevertheless,
do not trust yourself too much to it. Miasmas
still inhabit it. It is more hypocritical than
irreproachable. The prefecture of police and
the commission of health have done their best.
But, in spite of all the processes of disinfection,
it exhales, a vague, suspicious odor like Tartuffe
after confession.
Let us confess, that, taking it all
in all, this sweeping is a homage which the sewer
pays to civilization, and as, from this point of view,
Tartuffe’s conscience is a progress over the
Augean stables, it is certain that the sewers of Paris
have been improved.
It is more than progress; it is transmutation.
Between the ancient and the present sewer there is
a revolution. What has effected this revolution?
The man whom all the world forgets,
and whom we have mentioned, Bruneseau.
Chapter VI
future progress
The excavation of the sewer of Paris
has been no slight task. The last ten centuries
have toiled at it without being able to bring it to
a termination, any more than they have been able to
finish Paris. The sewer, in fact, receives all
the counter-shocks of the growth of Paris. Within
the bosom of the earth, it is a sort of mysterious
polyp with a thousand antennæ, which expands below
as the city expands above. Every time that the
city cuts a street, the sewer stretches out an arm.
The old monarchy had constructed only twenty-three
thousand three hundred metres of sewers; that was
where Paris stood in this respect on the first of
January, 1806. Beginning with this epoch, of which
we shall shortly speak, the work was usefully and
energetically resumed and prosecuted; Napoleon built the
figures are curious four thousand eight
hundred and four metres; Louis XVIII., five thousand
seven hundred and nine; Charles X., ten thousand eight
hundred and thirty-six; Louis-Philippe, eighty-nine
thousand and twenty; the Republic of 1848, twenty-three
thousand three hundred and eighty-one; the present
government, seventy thousand five hundred; in all,
at the present time, two hundred and twenty-six thousand
six hundred and ten metres; sixty leagues of sewers;
the enormous entrails of Paris. An obscure ramification
ever at work; a construction which is immense and ignored.
As the reader sees, the subterranean
labyrinth of Paris is to-day more than ten times what
it was at the beginning of the century. It is
difficult to form any idea of all the perseverance
and the efforts which have been required to bring
this cess-pool to the point of relative perfection
in which it now is. It was with great difficulty
that the ancient monarchical provostship and, during
the last ten years of the eighteenth century, the
revolutionary mayoralty, had succeeded in perforating
the five leagues of sewer which existed previous to
1806. All sorts of obstacles hindered this operation,
some peculiar to the soil, others inherent in the
very prejudices of the laborious population of Paris.
Paris is built upon a soil which is singularly rebellious
to the pick, the hoe, the bore, and to human manipulation.
There is nothing more difficult to pierce and to penetrate
than the geological formation upon which is superposed
the marvellous historical formation called Paris;
as soon as work in any form whatsoever is begun and
adventures upon this stretch of alluvium, subterranean
resistances abound. There are liquid clays, springs,
hard rocks, and those soft and deep quagmires which
special science calls moutardes. The pick
advances laboriously through the calcareous layers
alternating with very slender threads of clay, and
schistose beds in plates incrusted with oyster-shells,
the contemporaries of the pre-Adamite oceans.
Sometimes a rivulet suddenly bursts through a vault
that has been begun, and inundates the laborers; or
a layer of marl is laid bare, and rolls down with the
fury of a cataract, breaking the stoutest supporting
beams like glass. Quite recently, at Villette,
when it became necessary to pass the collecting sewer
under the Saint-Martin canal without interrupting navigation
or emptying the canal, a fissure appeared in the basin
of the canal, water suddenly became abundant in the
subterranean tunnel, which was beyond the power of
the pumping engines; it was necessary to send a diver
to explore the fissure which had been made in the
narrow entrance of the grand basin, and it was not
without great difficulty that it was stopped up.
Elsewhere near the Seine, and even at a considerable
distance from the river, as for instance, at Belleville,
Grand-Rue and Lumiere Passage, quicksands are encountered
in which one sticks fast, and in which a man sinks
visibly. Add suffocation by miasmas, burial
by slides, and sudden crumbling of the earth.
Add the typhus, with which the workmen become slowly
impregnated. In our own day, after having excavated
the gallery of Clichy, with a banquette to receive
the principal water-conduit of Ourcq, a piece of work
which was executed in a trench ten metres deep; after
having, in the midst of land-slides, and with the
aid of excavations often putrid, and of shoring up,
vaulted the Bièvre from the Boulevard de l’Hopital,
as far as the Seine; after having, in order to deliver
Paris from the floods of Montmartre and in order to
provide an outlet for that river-like pool nine hectares
in extent, which crouched near the Barriere des
Martyrs, after having, let us state, constructed the
line of sewers from the Barriere Blanche to the road
of Aubervilliers, in four months, working day and night,
at a depth of eleven metres; after having a
thing heretofore unseen made a subterranean
sewer in the Rue Barre-du-Bec, without a trench, six
metres below the surface, the superintendent, Monnot,
died. After having vaulted three thousand metres
of sewer in all quarters of the city, from the Rue
Traversière-Saint-Antoine to the Rue de l’Ourcine,
after having freed the Carrefour Censier-Mouffetard
from inundations of rain by means of the branch of
the Arbalète, after having built the Saint-Georges
sewer, on rock and concrete in the fluid sands, after
having directed the formidable lowering of the flooring
of the vault timber in the Notre-Dame-de-Nazareth
branch, Duleau the engineer died. There are no
bulletins for such acts of bravery as these, which
are more useful, nevertheless, than the brutal slaughter
of the field of battle.
The sewers of Paris in 1832 were far
from being what they are to-day. Bruneseau had
given the impulse, but the cholera was required to
bring about the vast reconstruction which took place
later on. It is surprising to say, for example,
that in 1821, a part of the belt sewer, called the
Grand Canal, as in Venice, still stood stagnating uncovered
to the sky, in the Rue des Gourdes. It was
only in 1821 that the city of Paris found in its pocket
the two hundred and sixty-thousand eighty francs and
six centimes required for covering this mass
of filth. The three absorbing wells, of the Combat,
the Cunette, and Saint-Mande, with their discharging
mouths, their apparatus, their cesspools, and their
depuratory branches, only date from 1836. The
intestinal sewer of Paris has been made over anew,
and, as we have said, it has been extended more than
tenfold within the last quarter of a century.
Thirty years ago, at the epoch of
the insurrection of the 5th and 6th of June, it was
still, in many localities, nearly the same ancient
sewer. A very great number of streets which are
now convex were then sunken causeways. At the
end of a slope, where the tributaries of a street or
cross-roads ended, there were often to be seen large,
square gratings with heavy bars, whose iron, polished
by the footsteps of the throng, gleamed dangerous
and slippery for vehicles, and caused horses to fall.
The official language of the Roads and Bridges gave
to these gratings the expressive name of Cassis.
In 1832, in a number of streets, in
the Rue de l’Etoile, the Rue Saint-Louis, the
Rue du Temple, the Rue Vielle-duTemple, the Rue Notre-Dame
de Nazareth, the Rue Folie-Mericourt, the Quai aux
Fleurs, the Rue du Petit-Muse, the Rue du Normandie,
the Rue Pont-Aux-Biches, the Rue des Marais,
the Faubourg Saint-Martin, the Rue Notre Dame
des-Victoires, the Faubourg Montmartre, the
Rue Grange-Batelière, in the Champs-Elysees,
the Rue Jacob, the Rue de Tournon, the ancient gothic
sewer still cynically displayed its maw. It consisted
of enormous voids of stone catch-basins sometimes
surrounded by stone posts, with monumental effrontery.
Paris in 1806 still had nearly the
same sewers numerically as stated in 1663; five thousand
three hundred fathoms. After Bruneseau, on the
1st of January, 1832, it had forty thousand three
hundred metres. Between 1806 and 1831, there
had been built, on an average, seven hundred and fifty
metres annually, afterwards eight and even ten thousand
metres of galleries were constructed every year, in
masonry, of small stones, with hydraulic mortar which
hardens under water, on a cement foundation. At
two hundred francs the metre, the sixty leagues of
Paris’ sewers of the present day represent forty-eight
millions.
In addition to the economic progress
which we have indicated at the beginning, grave problems
of public hygiene are connected with that immense
question: the sewers of Paris.
Paris is the centre of two sheets,
a sheet of water and a sheet of air. The sheet
of water, lying at a tolerably great depth underground,
but already sounded by two bores, is furnished by
the layer of green clay situated between the chalk
and the Jurassic lime-stone; this layer may be represented
by a disk five and twenty leagues in circumference;
a multitude of rivers and brooks ooze there; one drinks
the Seine, the Marne, the Yonne, the Oise, the Aisne,
the Cher, the Vienne and the Loire in a glass of water
from the well of Grenelle. The sheet of water
is healthy, it comes from heaven in the first place
and next from the earth; the sheet of air is unhealthy,
it comes from the sewer. All the miasms of the
cess-pool are mingled with the breath of the city;
hence this bad breath. The air taken from above
a dung-heap, as has been scientifically proved, is
purer than the air taken from above Paris. In
a given time, with the aid of progress, mechanisms
become perfected, and as light increases, the sheet
of water will be employed to purify the sheet of air;
that is to say, to wash the sewer. The reader
knows, that by “washing the sewer” we
mean: the restitution of the filth to the earth;
the return to the soil of dung and of manure to the
fields. Through this simple act, the entire social
community will experience a diminution of misery and
an augmentation of health. At the present hour,
the radiation of diseases from Paris extends to fifty
leagues around the Louvre, taken as the hub of this
pestilential wheel.
We might say that, for ten centuries,
the cess-pool has been the disease of Paris.
The sewer is the blemish which Paris has in her blood.
The popular instinct has never been deceived in it.
The occupation of sewermen was formerly almost as
perilous, and almost as repugnant to the people, as
the occupation of knacker, which was so long held in
horror and handed over to the executioner. High
wages were necessary to induce a mason to disappear
in that fetid mine; the ladder of the cess-pool cleaner
hesitated to plunge into it; it was said, in proverbial
form: “to descend into the sewer is to
enter the grave;” and all sorts of hideous legends,
as we have said, covered this colossal sink with terror;
a dread sink-hole which bears the traces of the revolutions
of the globe as of the revolutions of man, and where
are to be found vestiges of all cataclysms from the
shells of the Deluge to the rag of Marat.