It was a happy stroke of fortune that
fixed Ann Arbor as the location of the University
of Michigan. A literal interpretation of history
may suggest that politics and speculation had their
share in the selection of the site, but these factors
might have operated quite as easily in favor of some
other Michigan village. The fact remains that
Ann Arbor was chosen. This assured to the University
an individuality and an opportunity for self-realization
that might have been lost if a town destined to a
more rapid expansion had been selected. It has
given Michigan a special character among most of the
larger American universities and has had a vital influence
on the development of the institution, which has grown
proportionately far more than the town. The result
has been that Ann Arbor has become one of the most
attractive academic centers in the country, with a
distinctive charm in her homes and shady streets,
that strikes the visitor no less than the beauty of
its location and the dignity of many of its public
buildings.
Ann Arbor lies in the rolling country
of Southern Michigan, thirty-eight miles west of Detroit,
in the quietly picturesque valley of the Huron River.
The University and a good part of the present town
lie upon the top and slopes of a gentle hill which
falls away to the valley levels on all sides except
toward the northeast. From this situation arises
one of the characteristic features of Ann Arbor; the
ever-present glimpses of distant hills covered with
rolling farm lands and woodlots, toward which almost
any of the longer streets lead the eye.
At the time the University was established
the flow of immigration from the East was at high
tide. Ann Arbor had already become one of the
progressive and settled communities of the new State;
but farther to the West other districts were constantly
being opened and towards them a steady stream of settlers
pressed on. One of the early inhabitants of Ann
Arbor has given us a picture from his boyhood memories,
of the long line of wagons filled with household goods
and drawn by horses and oxen, which sometimes stretched
along the pike as far as the eye could reach.
The men who drove these wagons and the women who rode
above with the youngest of their little families were
not adventurers; they were essentially home-seekers.
Their strong fiber was shown by their energy and courage
in seeking thus to better their condition in this new
country, which at last had in prospect means of communication
with the seaboard states through the Erie Canal and
the railroads soon to be built. It was settlers
with this stuff in them who gave to the University
of Michigan the support that spelled success instead
of the failure which had attended many similar efforts.
The very name, Ann Arbor, recalls
an idyll of pioneer life. It sketches in a picture
that is no doubt more charming than the bitter mid-winter
reality faced by the first two families, whose tents
were pitched in a burr-oak grove beside a little stream
flowing toward the nearby Huron. John Allen of
this party, a vigorous young Virginian, was the driving
force which first turned the tide of settlement toward
Ann Arbor. By chance, on his way West, he met
E.W. Rumsey and his wife in Cleveland and induced
them to come with him to Michigan. They drove
overland and arrived at the site of their future home
some time in February, 1824. A tent and sled
box set over poles with blankets for sides formed the
first dwelling, and here some months later Allen welcomed
his wife, whose name was Ann. Mrs. Rumsey’s
name also happened to be the same, and when in the
spring the grape vines spread their leaves over the
neighboring trees, these first settlers found a little
natural arbor, which they called, doubtless at first
in jest, “Ann’s Arbor.” The
name persisted, however, and it was formally adopted
by general acclamation at a celebration held on the
fourth of July, 1825, when some three hundred persons
sat down to a dinner at Rumsey’s coffee-house.
So far had civilization progressed in a little over
a year. By that time there were nine log houses
in the little settlement, which had already begun
to take its place as one of the way-stations in the
general tide of westward travel. For some time,
however, communication with Detroit was difficult,
and it was not until two years before the University
was opened that the long-awaited railroad actually
reached Ann Arbor. Therefore, for many years
the little settlement had to be largely self-supporting.
Such water power as the Huron could furnish was quickly
developed; sawmills, gristmills, and a little later,
woolen mills arose at favorable sites, the ruins of
which are still to be seen where the relics of the
dams now serve as hazards for the venturesome paddler.
The first tendency of the inhabitants
was to settle on the rise above the little stream;
known as Allen’s Creek, which furnished the water
supply for the earliest pioneers. This rivulet,
practically hidden nowadays, runs through the city
on a course roughly parallel with the Ann Arbor Railroad
tracks. The site of the burr-oak grove and the
original encampment was almost certainly on the hillside
on the south side of Huron Street, a block or so west
of Main Street. This was reported to be an old
dancing ground of the Pottawatomies, and an Indian
trail used to run to the Huron along the stream.
Rumsey built a log cabin on this spot immediately
and established in it a resting-place for travelers,
known far and wide as the Washtenaw Coffee House.
The second building was erected by Allen on higher
ground at what is now the corner of Huron and Main
streets. It was painted a bright red and the place
for some time went by the name of “Bloody Corners.”
At one time the two apartments of the little log house
held fourteen men and twenty-one women and children,
divided into family groups by the simple expedient
of hanging blankets. In what seems now an incredibly
short time life was moving in organized channels.
A store was opened in September, and others soon followed;
more buildings were erected; a physician or two swelled
the population; in a little over two years a county
court was established; and finally, in 1833, the village
was incorporated.
For many years the little town was
divided into two separate districts by the Huron River,
and a determined effort arose to make the section on
the north side the main business and residential quarter.
This was not to be; though the old business blocks
still stand across the Broadway bridge, and many of
the finer homes of that period, now falling into decay,
remain on the hills along the turnpikes to Plymouth
and Pontiac.
It was probably not until the location
of the University was fixed that the center of Ann
Arbor’s population began, very slowly at first,
to turn to the south and east, and mounted the slopes
of the hill upon which the University stands.
Certain it is that for years the Campus was practically
in the country, and only gradually did the dwellings
of the townspeople rise in the neighborhood.
Aside from the University there was nothing east of
State Street, except an old burying ground and one
dwelling, occupied by the ubiquitous Pat Kelly, whose
freedom of the agricultural privileges of the Campus
made him quite as important a financial factor of
the community as the members of the Faculty he served.
To the north was a district known
as the “commons.” Professor Ten Brook
tells how he was accustomed every Sunday morning on
his way to church in lower town, to strike across
this open place to the ravine just west of the present
hospital buildings up which Glen Avenue now passes.
Coming out on Fuller Street, the river road, he passed
the old Kellogg farmhouse, the only home until within
a few blocks of the church across the river.
Lower town was but little smaller then than in these
days; it had its own schools as well as churches and
when Ann Arbor received a city charter in 1851 it
held aloof for some time. The original settlement
about the Court-House Square extended no further to
the west than Allen’s Creek for many years,
while there was little to the south of the present
William Street save scattered farmhouses and a large
brickyard.
In the beginning Ann Arbor was solely
a farming community, a character it retained essentially
until the increasing number of manufacturing plants
in recent years has somewhat changed its aspect.
The first inhabitants were almost entirely New Englanders,
true Yankees in faith, resourcefulness, and business
enterprise. But it was not long before immigrants
of another type began to arrive; South Germans, who
had left their native land to seek homes in the freer
religious and political atmosphere of the new world.
They speedily became an important factor in the growth
of the town, as the business names on Main Street nowadays
show; almost all borne by descendants of the early
German settlers, who have for the most part identified
themselves wholly with their new home. This was
revealed by the recent war. While there were some
who, through a sentimental attraction for the home
of their fathers, stimulated by the unscrupulous efforts
of Germany’s representatives, were actively
pro-German in their sympathies or at least violently
torn between their love for the old home and loyalty
to the new land, there were many others, probably
the majority, who were out and out loyalists on every
occasion, and who by spoken word and action proved
their unhyphenated Americanism. The brave record
of the Ann Arbor men in the Civil War, and in France
a half century later, where several of foreign parentage
lost their lives, is ample proof of the solid qualities
in this element among Ann Arbor’s first inhabitants.
Whatever their parentage or creed,
the dwellers in the little double community saw to
it from the first that, at least in some measure, the
religious and intellectual needs of the people were
satisfied. There is evidence that occasional
religious services were held in 1825, but the first
church, the Presbyterian, was not established until
August, 1826. For some years it was migratory
in its meeting places, passing from a log schoolhouse
to a room in “Cook’s” hotel and finally
in 1829 to the first church built in Ann Arbor, an
unpainted log structure 25 by 35 feet on the site
of the present church on Huron Street. The other
denominations quickly followed this example and by
1844 there were six churches to serve the needs of
the 3,000 inhabitants of the village, as well as the
surrounding countryside, including the first Lutheran
church for the German-speaking settlers in Michigan.
The journalist also appeared on the
scene in this prologue to the drama of the University’s
history. Less than six years after the arrival
of the first settlers, the first number of the Western
Emigrant appeared on October 18, 1829. Like
all country journals of that period it was far more
interested in national politics and even foreign affairs
than local events; any one who searches for a chronicle
of the daily life of those times finds scant reward
in the columns of these papers. Even so important
an event as the first meeting of the Regents is dismissed
with a brief paragraph which throws no light on many
interesting questions raised by the official report
of that gathering. Yet such slender sheets as
this, which eventually became the State Journal,
and its Democratic contemporary, the Argus,
established in 1835, furnish a picture of the life
of those times in unexpected ways that would greatly
surprise their editors, whose duty, as they saw it,
was chiefly to guide the political opinions of their
readers by strong and biting editorials, by long reports
of legislative actions and by publishing the speeches
of the political leaders of their party. The
enterprise and industry of the community shows up
well in advertisements, where every form of trade
suitable for such a growing community found representation.
One merchant advertised some 125 packages of fine
dress goods from the East in a long and alluring list
anticipating the great celebration over the arrival
of the railroad; another firm, whose specialty was
“drugs, paints, oils, dye-stuffs, groceries,”
offered its wares “for cash or barter, as cheap
if not cheaper than they can be procured west of Detroit.”
Cook’s “Hotel” announced a few years
later that it had been “greatly enlarged and
fitted up in a style equal to any Public House in the
place,” and that its location in the public
square was “one of the most pleasant and healthy
in Ann Arbor.” The editor of the Argus
in 1844 revealed the secrets of his business office
in the following double-column notice:
Wood! Wood!
Those of our subscribers
who wish to pay their subscriptions in
wood will please favor
us immediately.
Professional ethics was not quite
so tender a subject in those days as it is at present,
for John Allen announces in 1835 that he maintains
a law office for the convenience of his clients where
he may be sought in consultation, while “Doct.
S. Denton,” whose subsequent standing as Regent
and Professor was unquestioned, announces on April
2, 1835, that he
Has Removed his Office
to the Court House in the South Room on the
East side of the Hall.
Those who call after bed-time will please
knock at the window
if the door is fastened.
It is noticeable also that even at
this time, ten years after the village was founded,
the spelling, “Ann Arbour,” is followed
in numerous places while the Argus in its headline
gives it, “Ann-Arbor,” with a hyphen.
As with religion and politics, as
represented by the newspapers of the day, so with
education. It is not improbable that one of that
group of nine log cabins which was Ann Arbor in 1825
housed a primary school; certainly a school taught
by Miss Monroe was under way that year at the corner
of Main and Ann streets. This was at first a private
venture and was housed in various places, but in 1829
it was finally moved into a brick building, on
the jail lot, of all places! and became
a public enterprise. The children in the community
were all small in those days there were
only 141 children between five and fifteen years in
1839 and it was not for some years that
a need for secondary schools was felt.
The first academy was established
in 1829 where Greek and Latin and the “higher
branches of English education” were taught.
This was soon discontinued, to be succeeded by an
academy in the rude building which served the Presbyterian
Church. Although this particular school was short-lived,
its successor soon came to be known as the best in
the territory and numbered the sons of many prominent
Detroit families among its pupils. Several schools
came in 1835, including an experiment some distance
out what is now Packard Street, known as the Manual
Labor School, in which the pupils paid a part or the
whole of their expenses by daily farm work.
The Misses Page also maintained for
many years a very “genteel” young ladies’
seminary, long reckoned a most substantial and worthy
school, where not only the classics, moral philosophy,
and literature were taught, but also heraldry, an
eminently useful branch in a pioneer community!
The lower town district as well was not without its
schools and an academy. Provision was also made
for pre-collegiate training during the first years
of the University. So it would appear that on
the whole Ann Arbor was well provided with schools
from its earliest days.
The discontinuance of elementary work
in the University, however, and a consolidation of
the schools of the two districts finally led to the
establishment of the Union High School in 1853.
The first building was erected at a cost of $32,000
on the present site of the High School and was opened
to students in 1856, while most of the ward buildings
were built during the sixties. Close association
with the University undoubtedly strengthened the Ann
Arbor schools, and the High School soon became, in
practice, a preparatory school for the University,
particularly after the organic connection between University
and schools through the diploma system became effective.
This enabled the Ann Arbor High School to become one
of the best secondary schools of the State with an
attendance for many years far exceeding the normal
enrolment in other cities of the same population.
While the townspeople have always
shown their pride in the University and their interest
in its welfare, Ann Arbor has not escaped entirely
the traditional rivalries between town and gown.
The village had a flourishing civic and commercial
life before the first students came; even after it
was established, the University for years was comparatively
small and made no great place for itself in local affairs,
as one may easily surmise by the rare references to
it in the early newspapers. The members of the
Faculty, however, were welcomed from the first as
leaders in the community, though perhaps less can be
said for the students, whose irrepressible spirits
often led them to carry things with a high hand.
Nor was the younger element in the town blameless.
The result was an occasional crisis which was sometimes
serious.
The indignation meeting of the citizens
over the modification of the building program, as
well as the similarly expressed support given the
students in the fraternity struggle of 1850, were mentioned
in the first chapter, and evidence a more cordial
entente than is suggested by a serio-comic squabble
in 1856 between the students and the Teutonic element
in the town, long known as the “Dutch War.”
The original trouble appears to have started in this
case with the students, though it was probably the
outgrowth of old animosities between them and the
rougher and foreign elements in the town. For,
despite vigorous efforts on the part of the President
and Faculty to enforce the law against the sale of
liquor to undergraduates, many student difficulties
were to be traced to popular downtown resorts maintained
largely by the German inhabitants. On this occasion
the trouble started at “Hangsterfer’s,”
in an altercation between two students, who were making
themselves unpleasant, and the proprietor of the place.
The next night the students returned in force and
demanded free drinks, and, upon their being refused,
precipitated a general melee in which clubs were used
and even knives were drawn. In the end, the unfortunate
owners were chased to the outskirts of town by the
uproarious students.
Bad feeling followed this episode
and one night six uninvited students broke into a
ball at “Binders’s,” where they surreptitiously
helped themselves to the refreshments presumably
liquid. One of them was captured and only released
after planks had been brought to batter down the brick
walls of the building and a squad of medical students,
armed with muskets, had arrived on the scene.
Warrants were sworn out for the six the next day,
but the officers were foiled by exchanges of clothing,
by the culprits never eating in the same place twice,
by their substituting for one another in recitations
with the tacit approval, apparently, of their instructors,
and by concealment in the Observatory, or, in the
case of three of them, in a Regent’s house.
Finally two students were sent down to the scene of
the battle to buy liquor, and with this as evidence,
a sufficient case against the proprietor was secured
to induce him to withdraw his complaints. This
ended the “war.”
Equally objectionable to the Ann Arbor
citizens, though more excusable perhaps, was the standing
protest of the students at the condition of the wooden
sidewalks in the town, whose improvement apparently
formed no part of the programme for civic betterment
on the part of the good but conservative burghers.
The students therefore constantly took matters in
their own hands and about once in so often the offending
rickety planks went up in flames. The class of
’73 thus celebrated after its examinations in
the spring of 1870. Their raid on the sidewalks
had been unusually comprehensive and the city fathers
became thoroughly aroused. Arrests were threatened,
and serious trouble was certain, when Acting President
Frieze settled the matter by paying the $225 damages
out of his own slenderly lined pocket. This the
offending class eventually made up to him by laying
a tax upon its members, doubtless to the great disgust
of the innocent ones, “who thought bad form had
been displayed somewhere.” This experience,
however, by no means ended the practice, which continued
down to the present day of flag and cement. The
Chronicle once even took occasion to point out
certain places where
If the freshmen insist upon
celebrating their transition state by the customary
hints to citizens in regard to side-walks, etc.,
we think we cannot do better than call their
attention to a wretched collection of rotten
planks which lie along the fence on Division Street,
not far from William.
The local police force has always
been fair game for the students, a position “he”
(to use the long-standing quip) did not always appreciate.
Gatherings of students in the streets were at one time
looked upon with great disfavor, while the daily “rushes”
at the old post-office, before the days of carrier
delivery, were particularly prolific sources of trouble.
The office before 1882 was especially inconvenient,
and when the officers, warned by previous trouble,
proposed to allow students to enter only one at a
time, which meant that many would go without their
mail, a disturbance threatened at once, and several
were arrested. The next night matters proved
even more serious; the fire-bell called out the state
militia, who charged with fixed bayonets and wounded
several persons. A dozen students were jailed
indiscriminately but no one could be found to prefer
charges the following morning. Suits for false
imprisonment were brought against the city and mayor
but were eventually discontinued on the advice of
Judge Cooley.
In November, 1890, even more serious
trouble arose following another series of arrests
for post-office “rushing.” During
the evening sounds of rifle shots were heard, and
the students, already excited, scented more trouble.
They gathered in a great crowd in front of the house
where the firing had occurred but found that it was
only a wedding celebration. Then, with characteristic
good nature, they called for a speech, but their intentions
were misinterpreted, and when the militia, who had
attended the wedding in a body, marched out the students
followed them with jokes and jeers. Finally the
militiamen lost patience and charged with clubbed
guns, and one quiet student who had been apparently
only a spectator, was felled to the ground and afterward
died of his injury. The sergeant in charge of
the soldiers was also seriously injured. In this
instance the students were guilty of nothing but noise,
while the militia were acting entirely contrary to
the law. Nevertheless, though eight men were
arrested, the blame could not be fixed on any one
man. The Governor of the State, however, disbanded
the company for its unsoldierly conduct.
While the growth of the University
of late years would suggest a corresponding increase
in such troubles as have been described, the actual
development has been quite otherwise, and serious clashes
between students and townsfolk have been very rare
in recent years. There have, it is true, been
occasional raids on street-cars and signs; students
have been arrested for playing ball on the streets;
and sometimes political meetings have been disturbed.
One of the most amusing incidents of this character
was an address given by W.J. Bryan in 1900 from
the portico of the Court House. Wild cheering
greeted him as he rose to speak, which lasted for
at least fifteen minutes. At first he was obviously
greatly flattered; then he began to suspect something
was not quite right and majestically raised his hand
for silence. Instantly every student waved his
hand in response, and the exchange was continued for
some time. Meanwhile the police force was busy
dragging off to jail any unlucky student on the outskirts
of the crowd they could lay hands on. When the
speaker was at length able to make himself heard his
first words, somewhat unfortunate under the circumstances,
were, “If I were an imperialist I would call
out an army to suppress you. But I am not.”
It may be said, therefore, that in
spite of these occasional troubles the relations between
town and gown have been on the whole surprisingly
normal and friendly when we consider that at present
over one-fourth of the total population of Ann Arbor
during term-time is composed of students. This
cordial relationship is undoubtedly fostered by the
fact that all the men and many of the women outside
the fraternities, live in rooms rented from the townspeople.
The extent to which this system has developed is probably
unique in any American university of the same size.
Only very recently has there been any modification
of the tradition, in the erection of women’s
dormitories and a promise of similar buildings for
the men.
While this arrangement is not ideal
in many ways, for the students do not always secure
the clean and attractive quarters they are properly
entitled to have, it has been undoubtedly a great advantage
to the University in relieving it of the expense and
trouble of maintaining dormitories, at a time when
every dollar of resources, to say nothing of the energies
of the officers, was necessary to maintain the University’s
work. It is only natural, however, that many disputes
between students and landladies should arise, particularly
when the rooming and boarding houses are not supervised
by the University: This is the case with the
men. For some time the women in the University
have been allowed to live only in approved rooming
houses. The Health Service has also undertaken
to inspect all the student boarding houses in an effort
to ensure wholesome food and to maintain a definite
standard of cleanliness.
Whatever the minor sources of friction
that have arisen between the students and townsfolk
of Ann Arbor, however, the substantial friendliness
of the citizens and their pride in the University have
always been one of its great assets through its years
of development. The promoters of the hastily
organized land company through whose efforts Ann Arbor
was made the site of the future University builded
better than they knew. Their venture was probably
not a particularly profitable one, for the rapid growth
they had expected did not materialize. But their
prompt action and foresight assured the institution
a normal and healthy environment comparatively free
from political and commercial influences. There
are, undoubtedly, certain advantages which come to
the modern university in a larger city, which becomes
in a way a laboratory for various forms of scientific
investigation; but the disadvantages are no less obvious.
The life of the students becomes more complicated;
social distractions and amusements are apt to offer
too great temptations; the simplicity of academic
life is lost; while the personal relations between
Faculty and student become more perfunctory.
Thus by her very situation Michigan has been able
to retain, in spite of her extraordinary growth in
recent years, something of that fine flavor of college
life which has always been the essence of our best
academic traditions.
In the first days the Campus was only
a backwoods clearing with lines of forest oaks on
the east and south, the fence-rows of the Rumsey farm,
and from it the stumps of the original forest trees
had to be removed before the University was opened.
For many years it was, to all intents, a farm lot
upon which a few scattered buildings were to be seen.
The early Regents and Faculty were necessarily occupied
with pressing practical problems, and the first steps
toward rendering the Campus more attractive were very
casual and ineffective. The sum of $200 was given
Dr. Houghton for the planting of trees in 1840 but
action was delayed because of Pat Kelly’s wheat,
and when eventually the trees were planted tradition
has it they were locusts they were soon
destroyed by insects. Andrew D. White describes
the Campus when he came to the University in 1857
as “unkempt and wretched. Throughout its
whole space there were not more than a score of trees
outside the building sites allotted to professors;
unsightly plank walks connected the buildings, and
in every direction were meandering paths, which in
dry weather were dusty and in wet weather muddy.”
Yet as early as 1847 the forlorn condition
of the Campus began to be officially noticed; appropriations
of small sums were made from time to time for trees
and shrubs and a scheme for the laying out of avenues
and walks and the planting of groups of trees was
adopted. Unfortunately, the trees came before
the walks, and as they were all of quick-growing varieties
the effort did not go far. Nevertheless a vision
of the traditional academic grove appeared in the
report of the visiting Committee of that year, which
recommended that “regard should be had, in making
the selection, to the cleanliness, desirability, symmetry,
and beauty of foliage of the trees to be planted”
and observed that “the highway of thought, and
intellectual development and progress, much of which
is parched and rugged, should, as far as may be, be
refreshed with fountains and strewn with flowers.”
Truly, an alluring picture! The Faculty, however,
somewhat more practical, insisted on walks, protesting
that they were “obliged before clear day to wend
their way to their recitations through darkness and
mud.” A similar plan was undertaken in
1854 when citizens, students, and Faculty all joined
in the work, the citizens to set out a row of trees
on the farther side of the streets outside the Campus,
while the students and Faculty were to do the same
on the Campus side. Five hundred trees were thus
set out within the grounds while an equal number was
added through an appropriation by the Regents.
But apparently small success attended these efforts,
for few of these trees have survived.
It was with the coming of the young
Andrew D. White, as Professor of History, with his
youthful enthusiasm and memories of the “glorious
elms of Yale,” that the first effective effort
for the improvement of the Campus began. He says,
in his Autobiography:
Without permission from any one, I
began planting trees within the university enclosure;
established, on my own account, several avenues;
and set out elms to overshadow them. Choosing
my trees with care, carefully protecting and
watering them during the first two years, and
gradually adding to them a considerable number of
evergreens, I preached practically the doctrine
of adorning the Campus. Gradually some of
my students joined me; one class after another
aided in securing trees and planting them, others became
interested, until, finally, the University authorities
made me “superintendent of the grounds,”
and appropriated to my work the munificent sum
of seventy-five dollars a year. So began the
splendid growth which now surrounds those buildings.
His example was doubtless infectious,
for the Ann Arbor citizens continued their tree-planting
efforts around the outside of the Campus in the spring
of 1858, while a group of sixty trees presented to
the University were set out inside. The seniors
of ’58 left a memorial in the shape of concentric
rings of maples about a native oak in the center of
the Campus, one of the few survivals of the original
forest growth, which has since become known as the
Tappan Oak, and is now marked by a tablet on a boulder
placed there in later years by ’58. Many
of these maples still survive, though all traces of
the circles are lost. The juniors also set out
another group further to the east, while Professor
Fasquelle planted a number of evergreens east of the
north wing to balance a similar group of Professor
White’s at the south. The maples outside
the walk on State Street were also the gift of Professor
White and were balanced by a similar row of elms on
the inside, given by the Faculty of the Literary Department.
This general interest in Campus improvement did not
escape the Regents and successive appropriations,
though comparatively small, continued the work until
Michigan now has, in the words of the father of the
movement, written forty-six years after his work was
undertaken, “one of the most beautiful academic
groves to be seen in any part of the world,” a
monument to him and to the students of his time.
The development of the building program,
if a thing so haphazard can go by that name, was less
fortunate for the University. Only in very recent
years has there been any appreciation of the need of
some degree of uniformity and planning for the future.
Many of the present buildings have been evolved, as
the needs of the University grew, rather than planned,
while others have been built to suit the tastes of
certain officers, or the special needs of the departments
concerned, with no reference to the larger unity which
has come to be recognized as so necessary in any group
of buildings. Some of the oldest buildings have
gone; in particular the two residences on the north,
which became the old Dental College and the Homeopathic
School in their last incarnations, while the picturesque
old Medical Building followed them a few years later.
The two on the south still survive; the President’s
House, though often remodeled, still retains its old
lines, but the adjacent building, now known as the
Old Engineering Building and used largely for instruction
in modern languages in the Engineering College, has
lost all semblance of its former character.
Similarly the Law Building has undergone
many transformations, while the old Chemistry Building,
now used by the Departments of Physiology, Materia
Medica, and Economics as make-shift quarters,
has lost through successive additions almost all trace
of that first little laboratory which exemplified
the progressive spirit of the University in her early
days. The new Chemistry Building on the north
side was completed in 1910 and cost with equipment
about $300,000. It is four stories high, 230
feet long by 130 feet wide, and is built about two
interior courts. The building contains two amphitheaters,
laboratories for organic and qualitative chemistry,
metallurgy, physical chemistry, and gas analysis,
as well as the College of Pharmacy.
Just beside it to the west rises the
largest building on the Campus, the Natural Science
Building, which houses the Departments of Botany,
Geology, Forestry, Mineralogy, Zooelogy, and Psychology.
This building, which was something of a departure
in laboratory construction when it was completed in
1916, is built upon the unit system, and consists
essentially of concrete piers, whose uniform spacing
divides the rooms and laboratories into equal units,
or multiples, with practically the total width between
piers opening into windows. This is, in effect,
a modern adaptation of the old Gothic principle, though
it emphasizes the horizontal and lacks entirely the
buttresses and pinnacles which gave the medieval church
builders their inspiration. It marks, however,
a new era in laboratory construction, for not only
are the laboratories flooded with light, but they
are carefully designed for the purpose for which they
are to be used. It is also to be noted that each
department is installed in a complete section of four
floors, from basement to top. The building, which
cost $375,000, has about 155,000 square feet of floor
space and like the neighboring Chemistry Building is
built about an open court. The same principle
of construction has also been followed as far as practicable
in the new Library Building.
Other buildings on the Campus which
have not been mentioned elsewhere are the Physics
Laboratory, the Museum, and Tappan Hall. The Physics
Laboratory was built in 1886-87. Within twenty
years it proved inadequate and in 1905 an addition
costing $45,000 became necessary, which contains among
other features a well-equipped lecture room accommodating
four hundred students. Until the completion of
the larger lecture room in the Natural Science Building
this was in great demand for many University lectures.
Tappan Hall, a class-room building, in a portion of
which the Department of Education now has its headquarters,
was erected in 1894-95 and stands near the southwest
corner of the Campus just at the rear of Alumni Memorial
Hall.
The University Museum was erected
in 1881 and stands between University Hall and Alumni
Memorial Hall. It is far from being the most successful
of the University Buildings architecturally, and as
it has been for some time entirely inadequate for
the collections it houses, it will not be many years
before the need for a new museum will be presented
to the Legislature. In addition to the offices
of the Curator, Professor A.G. Ruthven, Morningside,
’03, and his staff, the building contains the
University’s zooelogical and anthropological
collections, very popular with casual visitors to
the Campus. The former includes a fine exhibit
of mounted mammals and some 1,600 birds, as well as
reptiles, fishes, mollusks and insects, in all of
which particular effort has been made to show forms
native to the State. The Anthropological Collection
includes the entire exhibit of the Chinese Government
at the New Orleans Exposition in 1885, as well as
many items from China and the Philippines, collected
by the Beal-Steere Expedition. The collections
in geology, mineralogy, botany, materia medica,
chemistry, the industrial arts, and the fine arts
are to be found in the Natural Science Building and
other buildings devoted to these special subjects.
For many years the original forty
acres of the Rumsey farm were more than ample for
the needs of the University. The Observatory,
the first building to find a place apart from the
Campus, was set upon its hilltop some distance northeast,
because of the need of clear air and quiet; advantages
now almost lost in the proximity of the hospitals,
heating plant, and railroads that portends an eventual
change in location. The Observatory has grown
rapidly since its establishment by Dr. Tappan in 1852.
The building was last remodeled and enlarged in 1911
when a reflecting telescope, with a 37-5/8 inch parabolic
mirror, largely made in the shops of the University,
was installed. In light gathering power this
instrument is in a class with the Lick and Yerkes refractors,
and it is at least as effective in astronomical photography,
the purpose for which it was designed. The new
brick tower, with its copper-covered dome, rises sixty
feet above the basement and is forty feet in diameter.
Just beyond the Observatory, on the
crest of the hills defining the Huron valley, is the
largest group of university buildings off the Campus,
the old University Hospitals, which are to be replaced
in 1922 by the new Hospital, ground for which was
broken in September, 1919. Following the erection
of the first building in 1891 an office building was
added in 1896 to be followed rapidly by other sections,
including a children’s pavilion erected in 1901,
known as the Palmer Ward, the bequest of the widow
of Dr. Alonzo B. Palmer, who also left $15,000 for
the maintenance of free beds in it. The entire
group of buildings numbers ten, including the State
Psychopathic Hospital.
The new Hospital is to be one of the
largest and most completely equipped in America.
It is composed of a series of wings taking the general
form of a double letter “Y” connected at
the stems, with a smaller office building in front
and a larger wing containing laboratories, operating
and class rooms at the rear. The building is 420
feet long and six stories high with provision for an
additional three stories at some future time.
It is built of reinforced concrete upon regularly
spaced piers, and is similar in construction to the
Natural Science Building.
The work of the Homeopathic Department
is centered in its fine Hospital building with an
adjacent Children’s Ward and Nurses’ Home
just off the northeast corner of the Campus.
The Dental Building, erected in 1908, is situated
to the west, just across the street from the Gymnasium.
It contains many laboratories and lecture rooms, as
well as an operating room fitted with eighty dental
chairs.
Of the other buildings off the Campus,
the new Union, Hill Auditorium and the three dormitories
for women are the most conspicuous. The Union,
with its magnificent tower and imposing yet withal
beautifully proportioned masses, has been mentioned
as the dominant architectural feature of State Street.
Hill Auditorium, which was made possible by a bequest
of $200,000 left by Regent Arthur Hill, ’65e,
of Saginaw upon his death in 1909, forms one of the
unique features of the University’s equipment.
Despite its seating capacity, with the stage, of over
5,000, it has almost perfect acoustic properties,
so that a whisper from the stage can be heard in any
portion of this great hall. Its completion in
1913 enabled the University at last to bring the great
part of the students together under one roof upon
such occasions as the annual convocation, the official
opening of the University in the fall. The problem
connected with the admission of relatives and friends
of the graduating classes to the Commencement exercises,
which had proved exceedingly troublesome for many
years, was also at last ended; while the musical interests
of Ann Arbor, particularly the annual May Festival,
immediately found an opportunity for further expansion
in this hall, whose advantages as a concert hall were
praised by every visiting musician. The building,
which is finished in tapestry brick and terra
cotta, stands opposite the Natural Science Building
on North University Avenue. In addition to the
great auditorium, it contains offices and class rooms,
a dressing-room for choruses, and a great foyer across
the front of the second floor, where the Stearns collection
of musical instruments, one of the finest in America,
is installed. The great organ from the Chicago
World’s Fair is also placed in this building
as a memorial to Professor Henry S. Frieze, the pioneer
in Michigan’s development as a musical center.
The University now has four dormitories
or halls of residence for women. Two of them
were completed in 1916; the Martha Cook Building on
South University Avenue, given by the Cook family
of Hillsdale, in memory of their mother, and the Newberry
Hall of Residence on State Street, a memorial to Helen
Handy Newberry, the wife of John S. Newberry, ’47,
given by her children. The Martha Cook Building
is probably the most sumptuous and complete college
dormitory in America and cost something over $500,000.
It is an unusually beautiful example of Tudor Gothic,
always a favorite style for college buildings.
Simple in its main lines it reveals an extraordinary
perfection in detail as well as comfort in its appointments
and a richness in decoration which cannot but have
its happy influence on the one hundred and seventeen
fortunate women who live there. Less elaborate
but equally attractive as a home for the seventy-five
girls it is built to accommodate is the Newberry Building,
which, though smaller and simpler in its architecture,
embodies every essential found in the larger building.
It is of hollow tile and stucco and cost about $100,000.
Similar in general plan and appointments, though built
of brick, is the adjacent Betsy Barbour Dormitory,
which was completed in 1920, the gift of Ex-Regent
Levi L. Barbour, ’63, ’65l, of Detroit.
It stands on the site of the old ward school building
on State Street, used for many years by the University
as a recitation building, and soon to be razed now
the new dormitory, just to the rear, is completed.
Alumnae House, the fourth girls’ residence hall,
was, as the name implies, furnished by the alumnae
of the University. It was made over from a quaint
old dwelling on Washtenaw Avenue at a cost of about
$18,000, and accommodates sixteen self-supporting students.
A final group of buildings, very necessary
in an institution so large as the University, is composed
of the heating and lighting plant, the nearby laundry
in the one-time ravine at the east of the old “Cat-hole,”
and the University shops and storehouse a little distance
south. The old power house near the Engineering
Building was abandoned in 1914 when the new plant,
situated on a lower level than the Campus and reached
by a spur from the railroad, was ready for service.
It cost approximately a third of a million dollars,
and furnishes heat, compressed air, electrical energy,
and hot water to the Campus and adjacent buildings
through a series of tunnels nearly ten feet high which
extend as far as the Union, half a mile across the
Campus.
Aside from the smaller and the more
temporary buildings and the many dwelling houses on
property recently acquired, the buildings of the University
number about forty. This does not include the
buildings occupied by the Y.M.C.A. and the Y.W.C.A.,
or the Psychopathic Hospital, the titles to which
do not rest with the Board of Regents.
Though the buildings on the Campus
have not, until very recently, been placed with any
careful relationship to a general scheme, and exhibit
a very unfortunate lack of architectural harmony,
in certain features the Campus gives promise of better
things in the future. Some of the buildings have
real beauty, though it is too often lost in an unfavorable
environment. Charming details are to be found
here and there, while the green canopy of the elms
and maples planted sixty years ago helps to give our
academic field a real distinction. Fortunately
the center of the Campus has been left comparatively
free of buildings, save for the rambling old Chemistry
Building, now used by the departments of Physiology
and Economics, and the plain but imposing bulk of the
new Library Building, a fitting center whence paths
diverge in every direction to the halls and laboratories
along the avenues that mark the outer confines of
the Campus. Lack of funds and the imperative need
of room, and yet more room, for the thousands of new
students, has severely limited the Regents in the
matter of adornment of the buildings erected in recent
years, which have all tended to conform to one type,
simple, dignified in their very rectangular bulk,
and relieved only by patterns in tapestry brick and
terra cotta trimmings.
Within recent years, too, the new
buildings have been carefully placed, not only with
reference to the present Campus, but also the inevitable
northeastward growth of the University toward the hills
lining the river. For some time the Regents have
been acquiring scattered parcels of property as occasion
presented, and now own a good share of the land in
the triangle bounded roughly by Hill Auditorium, the
University Hospitals and Palmer Field, an area twice
as large as the present Campus. In addition there
is the University Arboretum and Botanical Gardens,
a large area south and east of Forest Hill Cemetery,
which is now linked up by boulevards with the rapidly
growing system of city parks.
A formal entrance to the Campus in
the form of a double driveway, laid out in accordance
with a plan prepared in 1906 by Professor Emil Lorch
of the Department of Architecture, and known as the
Mall, passes between the Chemistry and Natural Science
Buildings. This forms practically a continuation
of Ingalls Street between Hill Auditorium and a future
companion, possibly a new Museum, which will eventually
be built to the east on the other corner. The
impressive vista thus formed leads the eye to the
massive façade of the new Library, though the Campus
flagstaff, some distance in front, now marks the actual
end of the new driveway. The architectural emphasis
of the Campus is thus being turned to the north, but
the western, or State Street side still remains the
accepted front, dominated by the old-fashioned but
nevertheless stately bulk of old University Hall.
Within a short time State Street has become, through
the fortunate removal of several unsightly old survivals
of earlier days, one of the most beautiful of academic
avenues, flanked on one side by the Campus, with its
trees, broad spaces and dignified buildings, and by
a row of public buildings on the western side, which,
though sadly lacking in uniformity, are yet for the
most part impressive and substantial. These include
the Congregational Church, the two halls of residence
for women, the older Newberry Hall, a number of fraternity
houses, and particularly the commanding beauty of the
Michigan Union.
It is fortunate for the University
and the community that the problem of the future development
of the institution in relation to the city is being
carefully considered. The expansion of the Campus
to the north and northeast is now established, and
it is probable that at some future period the Mall,
lined with monumental buildings, and laid out in co-operation
with the city, will extend to the river. Ann Arbor
has already taken far-sighted measures in establishing
a series of boulevards and parks along the river with
connecting links which will eventually encircle the
town. The extensive University properties in the
Arboretum and Botanical Gardens, which cover the hills
defining the ravine extending from the river to Geddes
Avenue, and join the present enlarged University grounds
at the Observatory, form part of this system.
Plans are now under consideration for a rearrangement
of streets, which will afford easier access from the
Campus to the Hospitals and the boulevards and river
drives. These will give to this portion of the
future University grounds an irregularity and picturesqueness
wholly lacking on the flat hilltop occupied by the
present Campus. One of the difficulties in this
plan is the old “Cat-hole,” the end of
a ravine, whose steep hillsides extend from the river
practically to the northeast corner of the Campus.
Though this unsightly boghole has been gradually filled
in, it still forms a blot on the landscape which might,
nevertheless, with a little effort and comparatively
small expense, be transformed into a charming open
air theater. This in fact has been recommended
by Mr. Frederick Law Olmstead, the landscape architect,
who has made an extensive study of the whole problem
for the city and the University.
It is fortunate for the University
that this plan for the future, tentative though it
may be at present, is actually a part of a large scheme
for the improvement of the city, suggested by Mr. Olmstead.
Ann Arbor is fast becoming one of the most beautiful
little cities in the country, with winding streets,
shaded by noble maples and elms and many of the original
forest oaks, and lined by substantial homes, charming
in their simple architecture and setting. This
development came at first, as was natural, largely
from the Faculty, but an increasing number of families
from Detroit and elsewhere have of late come to make
Ann Arbor their permanent residence, attracted by
the unusual beauty of the city and the advantages
afforded by the University. The sightly range
of hills along the Huron between Ann Arbor and Ypsilanti
and about the new Barton Pond, two miles to the north
and west of the city, recently developed as a water-power
site, are soon to be dotted here and there with comfortable
and attractive country homes, which promise to change
the entire character of Ann Arbor’s environs.
The little country town of the past is fast disappearing.
With these plans rapidly evolving
there is every reason to hope that, at no distant
period, the University may find an imposing physical
setting more in keeping with her standing among American
universities. The present is an era of transition;
as yet she has hardly had time to adjust herself to
the extraordinary growth of the last ten years; still
less to realize all the problems it involves.
But it requires no great vision to see the University
of the future occupying at last the heights overlooking
the Huron valley which that unfortunate decision at
the first meeting of the Regents denied to her in
1837.