When I arrived at the Clarence Basin,
Liverpool, (the dock Clarence Mangan had his first
name from) on my way to Sligo for my holidays I was
among Sligo people. When I was a little boy,
an old woman who had come to Liverpool with crates
of fowl, made me miserable by throwing her arms around
me the moment I had alighted from my cab and telling
the sailor who carried my luggage that she had held
me in her arms when I was a baby. The sailor
may have known me almost as well, for I was often at
Sligo quay to sail my boat; and I came and went once
or twice in every year upon the ss. Sligo
or the ss. Liverpool which belonged to
a company that had for directors my grandfather and
his partner William Middleton. I was always pleased
if it was the Liverpool, for she had been built
to run the blockade during the war of North and South.
I waited for this voyage always with
excitement and boasted to other boys about it, and
when I was a little boy had walked with my feet apart
as I had seen sailors walk. I used to be sea-sick,
but I must have hidden this from the other boys and
partly even from myself; for, as I look back, I remember
very little about it, while I remember stories I was
told by the captain or by his first mate, and the
look of the great cliffs of Donegal & Tory Island
men coming alongside with lobsters, talking Irish and,
if it was night, blowing on a burning sod to draw
our attention. The captain, an old man with square
shoulders and a fringe of grey hair round his face,
would tell his first mate, a very admiring man, of
fights he had had on shore at Liverpool; and perhaps
it was of him I was thinking when I was very small
and asked my grandmother if God was as strong as sailors.
Once, at any rate, he had been nearly wrecked; the
Liverpool had been all but blown upon the Mull
of Galloway with her shaft broken, and the captain
had said to his mate, “mind and jump when she
strikes, for we don’t want to be killed by the
falling spars;” and when the mate answered, “my
God, I cannot swim,” he had said, “who
could keep afloat for five minutes in a sea like that?”
He would often say his mate was the most timid of men
and that “a girl along the quays could laugh
him out of anything.” My grandfather had
more than once given the mate a ship of his own, but
he had always thrown up his berth to sail with his
old captain where he felt safe. Once he had been
put in charge of a ship in a dry dock in Liverpool,
but a boy was drowned in Sligo, and before the news
could reach him he wired to his wife, “ghost,
come at once, or I will throw up berth.”
He had been wrecked a number of times and maybe that
had broken his nerve or maybe he had a sensitiveness
that would in another class have given him taste &
culture. I once forgot a copy of “Count
Robert of Paris” on a deck-seat, and when I
found it again, it was all covered with the prints
of his dirty thumb. He had once seen the coach-a-baur
or death coach. It came along the road, he said,
till it was hidden by a cottage and it never came
out on the other side of the cottage. Once I smelled
new-mown hay when we were quite a long way from land,
and once when I was watching the sea-parrots (as the
sailors call the puffin) I noticed they had different
ways of tucking their heads under their wings, or I
fancied it and said to the captain “they have
different characters.” Sometimes my father
came too, and the sailors when they saw him coming
would say “there is John Yeats and we shall
have a storm,” for he was considered unlucky.
I no longer cared for little shut-in-places,
for a coppice against the stable-yard at Merville
where my grandfather lived or against the gable at
Seaview where Aunt Micky lived, and I began to climb
the mountains, sometimes with the stable-boy for companion,
and to look up their stories in the county history.
I fished for trout with a worm in the mountain streams
and went out herring-fishing at night: and because
my grandfather had said the English were in the right
to eat skates, I carried a large skate all the six
miles or so from Rosses Point, but my grandfather did
not eat it.
One night just as the equinoctial
gales were coming when I was sailing home in the coastguard’s
boat a boy told me a beetle of solid gold, strayed
maybe from Poe’s “gold bug,” had
been seen by somebody in Scotland and I do not think
that either of us doubted his news. Indeed, so
many stories did I hear from sailors along the wharf,
or round the fo’castle fire of the little steamer
that ran between Sligo and Rosses, or from boys out
fishing that the world was full of monsters and marvels.
The foreign sailors wearing ear-rings did not tell
me stories, but like the fishing boys, I gazed at
them in wonder and admiration. When I look at
my brother’s picture, “Memory Harbour,”
houses and anchored ship and distant lighthouse all
set close together as in some old map, I recognize
in the blue-coated man with the mass of white shirt
the pilot I went fishing with, and I am full of disquiet
and of excitement, and I am melancholy because I have
not made more and better verses. I have walked
on Sinbad’s yellow shore and never shall another
hit my fancy.
I had still my red pony, and once
my father came with me riding too, and was very exacting.
He was indignant and threatening because he did not
think I rode well. “You must do everything
well,” he said, “that the Pollexfens respect,
though you must do other things also.” He
used to say the same about my lessons, and tell me
to be good at mathematics. I can see now that
he had a sense of inferiority among those energetic,
successful people. He himself, some Pollexfen
told me, though he rode very badly, would go hunting
upon anything and take any ditch. His father,
the County Down Rector, though a courtly man and a
scholar, had been so dandified a horseman that I had
heard of his splitting three riding breeches before
he had settled into his saddle for a day’s hunting,
and of his first rector exclaiming, “I had hoped
for a curate but they have sent me a jockey.”
Left to myself, I rode without ambition
though getting many falls, and more often to Rathbroughan
where my great-uncle Mat lived, than to any place
else. His children and I used to sail our toy-boats
in the river before his house, arming them with toy-cannon,
touch-paper at all the touch-holes, always hoping
but always in vain that they would not twist about
in the eddies but fire their cannon at one another.
I must have gone to Sligo sometimes in the Christmas
holidays, for I can remember riding my red pony to
a hunt. He balked at the first jump, to my relief,
and when a crowd of boys began to beat him, I would
not allow it. They all jeered at me for being
afraid. I found a gap and when I was alone in
a field tried another ditch, but the pony would not
jump that either; so I tied him to a tree and lay
down among the ferns and looked up into the sky.
On my way home I met the hunt again and noticed that
everybody avoided the dogs, and because I wanted to
find out why they did so I rode to where the dogs had
gathered in the middle of the lane and stood my pony
amongst them, and everybody began to shout at me.
Sometimes I would ride to Castle Dargan,
where lived a brawling squireen, married to one of
my Middleton cousins, and once I went thither on a
visit with my cousin George Middleton. It was,
I dare say, the last household where I could have
found the reckless Ireland of a hundred years ago in
final degradation. But I liked the place for the
romance of its two ruined castles facing one another
across a little lake, Castle Dargan and Castle Fury.
The squireen lived in a small house whither his family
had moved from their castle some time in the 18th
century, and two old Miss Furys, who let lodgings
in Sligo, were the last remnants of the breed of the
other ruin. Once in every year he drove to Sligo
for the two old women, that they might look upon the
ancestral stones and remember their gentility, and
he would put his wildest horses into the shafts to
enjoy their terror.
He himself, with a reeling imagination,
knew not what he could be at to find a spur for the
heavy hours. The first day I came there, he gave
my cousin a revolver, (we were upon the high road,)
and to show it off, or his own shooting, he shot a
passing chicken; and half an hour later, when he had
brought us to the lake’s edge under his castle,
now but the broken corner of a tower with a winding
stair, he fired at or over an old countryman who was
walking on the far edge of the lake. The next
day I heard him settling the matter with the old countryman
over a bottle of whiskey, and both were in good humour.
Once he had asked a timid aunt of mine if she would
like to see his last new pet, and thereupon had marched
a race-horse in through the hall door and round the
dining-room table. And once she came down to
a bare table because he had thought it a good joke
to open the window and let his harriers eat the breakfast.
There was a current story, too, of his shooting, in
the pride of his marksmanship, at his own door with
a Martini-Henry rifle till he had shot the knocker
off. At last he quarrelled with my great-uncle
William Middleton, and to avenge himself gathered
a rabble of wild country-lads and mounted them and
himself upon the most broken-down rascally horses he
could lay hands on and marched them through Sligo
under a land-league banner. After that, having
neither friends nor money, he made off to Australia
or to Canada. I fished for pike at Castle Dargan
and shot at birds with a muzzle-loading pistol until
somebody shot a rabbit and I heard it squeal.
From that on I would kill nothing but the dumb fish.