Mrs. March took the vertebrate with her to the Vienna Coffee-House, where they went to breakfast next morning.  She made March buy her the Herald and the World, and she added to its spiny convolutions from them.  She read the new advertisements aloud with ardor and with faith to believe that the apartments described in them were every one truthfully represented, and that any one of them was richly responsive to their needs.  “Elegant, light, large, single and outside flats” were offered with “all improvements ­bath, ice-box, etc.” ­for twenty-five to thirty dollars a month.  The cheapness was amazing.  The Wagram, the Esmeralda, the Jacinth, advertised them for forty dollars and sixty dollars, “with steam heat and elevator,” rent free till November.  Others, attractive from their air of conscientious scruple, announced “first-class flats; good order; reasonable rents.”  The Helena asked the reader if she had seen the “cabinet finish, hard-wood floors, and frescoed ceilings” of its fifty-dollar flats; the Asteroid affirmed that such apartments, with “six light rooms and bath, porcelain wash-tubs, electric bells, and hall-boy,” as it offered for seventy-five dollars were unapproached by competition.  There was a sameness in the jargon which tended to confusion.  Mrs. March got several flats on her list which promised neither steam heat nor elevators; she forgot herself so far as to include two or three as remote from the down-town region of her choice as Harlem.  But after she had rejected these the nondescript vertebrate was still voluminous enough to sustain her buoyant hopes.

The waiter, who remembered them from year to year, had put them at a window giving a pretty good section of Broadway, and before they set out on their search they had a moment of reminiscence.  They recalled the Broadway of five, of ten, of twenty years ago, swelling and roaring with a tide of gayly painted omnibuses and of picturesque traffic that the horsecars have now banished from it.  The grind of their wheels and the clash of their harsh bells imperfectly fill the silence that the omnibuses have left, and the eye misses the tumultuous perspective of former times.

They went out and stood for a moment before Grace Church, and looked down the stately thoroughfare, and found it no longer impressive, no longer characteristic.  It is still Broadway in name, but now it is like any other street.  You do not now take your life in your hand when you attempt to cross it; the Broadway policeman who supported the elbow of timorous beauty in the hollow of his cotton-gloved palm and guided its little fearful boots over the crossing, while he arrested the billowy omnibuses on either side with an imperious glance, is gone, and all that certain processional, barbaric gayety of the place is gone.

“Palmyra, Baalbec, Timour of the Desert,” said March, voicing their common feeling of the change.

They turned and went into the beautiful church, and found themselves in time for the matin service.  Rapt far from New York, if not from earth, in the dim richness of the painted light, the hallowed music took them with solemn ecstasy; the aerial, aspiring Gothic forms seemed to lift them heavenward.  They came out, reluctant, into the dazzle and bustle of the street, with a feeling that they were too good for it, which they confessed to each other with whimsical consciousness.

“But no matter how consecrated we feel now,” he said, “we mustn’t forget that we went into the church for precisely the same reason that we went to the Vienna Cafe for breakfast ­to gratify an aesthetic sense, to renew the faded pleasure of travel for a moment, to get back into the Europe of our youth.  It was a purely Pagan impulse, Isabel, and we’d better own it.”

“I don’t know,” she returned.  “I think we reduce ourselves to the bare bones too much.  I wish we didn’t always recognize the facts as we do.  Sometimes I should like to blink them.  I should like to think I was devouter than I am, and younger and prettier.”

“Better not; you couldn’t keep it up.  Honesty is the best policy even in such things.”

“No; I don’t like it, Basil.  I should rather wait till the last day for some of my motives to come to the top.  I know they’re always mixed, but do let me give them the benefit of a doubt sometimes.”

“Well, well, have it your own way, my dear.  But I prefer not to lay up so many disagreeable surprises for myself at that time.”

She would not consent.  “I know I am a good deal younger than I was.  I feel quite in the mood of that morning when we walked down Broadway on our wedding journey.  Don’t you?”

“Oh yes.  But I know I’m not younger; I’m only prettier.”

She laughed for pleasure in his joke, and also for unconscious joy in the gay New York weather, in which there was no ‘arrière pensee’ of the east wind.  They had crossed Broadway, and were walking over to Washington Square, in the region of which they now hoped to place themselves.  The ‘primo tenore’ statue of Garibaldi had already taken possession of the place in the name of Latin progress, and they met Italian faces, French faces, Spanish faces, as they strolled over the asphalt walks, under the thinning shadows of the autumn-stricken sycamores.  They met the familiar picturesque raggedness of Southern Europe with the old kindly illusion that somehow it existed for their appreciation, and that it found adequate compensation for poverty in this.  March thought he sufficiently expressed his tacit sympathy in sitting down on one of the iron benches with his wife and letting a little Neapolitan put a superfluous shine on his boots, while their desultory comment wandered with equal esteem to the old-fashioned American respectability which keeps the north side of the square in vast mansions of red brick, and the international shabbiness which has invaded the southern border, and broken it up into lodging-houses, shops, beer-gardens, and studios.

They noticed the sign of an apartment to let on the north side, and as soon as the little bootblack could be bought off they went over to look at it.  The janitor met them at the door and examined them.  Then he said, as if still in doubt, “It has ten rooms, and the rent is twenty-eight hundred dollars.”

“It wouldn’t do, then,” March replied, and left him to divide the responsibility between the paucity of the rooms and the enormity of the rent as he best might.  But their self-love had received a wound, and they questioned each other what it was in their appearance made him doubt their ability to pay so much.

“Of course, we don’t look like New-Yorkers,” sighed Mrs. March, “and we’ve walked through the Square.  That might be as if we had walked along the Park Street mall in the Common before we came out on Beacon.  Do you suppose he could have seen you getting your boots blacked in that way?”

“It’s useless to ask,” said March.  “But I never can recover from this blow.”

“Oh, pshaw!  You know you hate such things as badly as I do.  It was very impertinent of him.”

“Let us go back and ‘écraser l’infame’ by paying him a year’s rent in advance and taking immediate possession.  Nothing else can soothe my wounded feelings.  You were not having your boots blacked:  why shouldn’t he have supposed you were a New-Yorker, and I a country cousin?”

“They always know.  Don’t you remember Mrs. Williams’s going to a Fifth Avenue milliner in a Worth dress, and the woman’s asking her instantly what hotel she should send her hat to?”

“Yes; these things drive one to despair.  I don’t wonder the bodies of so many genteel strangers are found in the waters around New York.  Shall we try the south side, my dear? or had we better go back to our rooms and rest awhile?”

Mrs. March had out the vertebrate, and was consulting one of its glittering ribs and glancing up from it at a house before which they stood.  “Yes, it’s the number; but do they call this being ready October first?” The little area in front of the basement was heaped with a mixture of mortar, bricks, laths, and shavings from the interior; the brownstone steps to the front door were similarly bestrewn; the doorway showed the half-open, rough pine carpenter’s sketch of an unfinished house; the sashless windows of every story showed the activity of workmen within; the clatter of hammers and the hiss of saws came out to them from every opening.

“They may call it October first,” said March, “because it’s too late to contradict them.  But they’d better not call it December first in my presence; I’ll let them say January first, at a pinch.”

“We will go in and look at it, anyway,” said his wife; and he admired how, when she was once within, she began provisionally to settle the family in each of the several floors with the female instinct for domiciliation which never failed her.  She had the help of the landlord, who was present to urge forward the workmen apparently; he lent a hopeful fancy to the solution of all her questions.  To get her from under his influence March had to represent that the place was damp from undried plastering, and that if she stayed she would probably be down with that New York pneumonia which visiting Bostonians are always dying of.  Once safely on the pavement outside, she realized that the apartment was not only unfinished, but unfurnished, and had neither steam heat nor elevator.  “But I thought we had better look at everything,” she explained.

“Yes, but not take everything.  If I hadn’t pulled you away from there by main force you’d have not only died of New York pneumonia on the spot, but you’d have had us all settled there before we knew what we were about.”

“Well, that’s what I can’t help, Basil.  It’s the only way I can realize whether it will do for us.  I have to dramatize the whole thing.”

She got a deal of pleasure as well as excitement out of this, and he had to own that the process of setting up housekeeping in so many different places was not only entertaining, but tended, through association with their first beginnings in housekeeping, to restore the image of their early married days and to make them young again.

It went on all day, and continued far into the night, until it was too late to go to the theatre, too late to do anything but tumble into bed and simultaneously fall asleep.  They groaned over their reiterated disappointments, but they could not deny that the interest was unfailing, and that they got a great deal of fun out of it all.  Nothing could abate Mrs. March’s faith in her advertisements.  One of them sent her to a flat of ten rooms which promised to be the solution of all their difficulties; it proved to be over a livery-stable, a liquor store, and a milliner’s shop, none of the first fashion.  Another led them far into old Greenwich Village to an apartment-house, which she refused to enter behind a small girl with a loaf of bread under one arm and a quart can of milk under the other.

In their search they were obliged, as March complained, to the acquisition of useless information in a degree unequalled in their experience.  They came to excel in the sad knowledge of the line at which respectability distinguishes itself from shabbiness.  Flattering advertisements took them to numbers of huge apartment-houses chiefly distinguishable from tenement-houses by the absence of fire-escapes on their façades, till Mrs. March refused to stop at any door where there were more than six bell-ratchets and speaking-tubes on either hand.  Before the middle of the afternoon she decided against ratchets altogether, and confined herself to knobs, neatly set in the door-trim.  Her husband was still sunk in the superstition that you can live anywhere you like in New York, and he would have paused at some places where her quicker eye caught the fatal sign of “Modes” in the ground-floor windows.  She found that there was an east and west line beyond which they could not go if they wished to keep their self-respect, and that within the region to which they had restricted themselves there was a choice of streets.  At first all the New York streets looked to them ill-paved, dirty, and repulsive; the general infamy imparted itself in their casual impression to streets in no wise guilty.  But they began to notice that some streets were quiet and clean, and, though never so quiet and clean as Boston streets, that they wore an air of encouraging reform, and suggested a future of greater and greater domesticity.  Whole blocks of these downtown cross-streets seemed to have been redeemed from decay, and even in the midst of squalor a dwelling here and there had been seized, painted a dull red as to its brick-work, and a glossy black as to its wood-work, and with a bright brass bell-pull and door-knob and a large brass plate for its key-hole escutcheon, had been endowed with an effect of purity and pride which removed its shabby neighborhood far from it.  Some of these houses were quite small, and imaginably within their means; but, as March said, some body seemed always to be living there himself, and the fact that none of them was to rent kept Mrs. March true to her ideal of a fiat.  Nothing prevented its realization so much as its difference from the New York ideal of a flat, which was inflexibly seven rooms and a bath.  One or two rooms might be at the front, the rest crooked and cornered backward through in creasing and then decreasing darkness till they reached a light bedroom or kitchen at the rear.  It might be the one or the other, but it was always the seventh room with the bath; or if, as sometimes happened, it was the eighth, it was so after having counted the bath as one; in this case the janitor said you always counted the bath as one.  If the flats were advertised as having “all light rooms,” he explained that any room with a window giving into the open air of a court or shaft was counted a light room.

The Marches tried to make out why it was that these flats were go much more repulsive than the apartments which everyone lived in abroad; but they could only do so upon the supposition that in their European days they were too young, too happy, too full of the future, to notice whether rooms were inside or outside, light or dark, big or little, high or low.  “Now we’re imprisoned in the present,” he said, “and we have to make the worst of it.”

In their despair he had an inspiration, which she declared worthy of him:  it was to take two small flats, of four or five rooms and a bath, and live in both.  They tried this in a great many places, but they never could get two flats of the kind on the same floor where there was steam heat and an elevator.  At one place they almost did it.  They had resigned themselves to the humility of the neighborhood, to the prevalence of modistes and livery-stablemen (they seem to consort much in New York), to the garbage in the gutters and the litter of paper in the streets, to the faltering slats in the surrounding window-shutters and the crumbled brownstone steps and sills, when it turned out that one of the apartments had been taken between two visits they made.  Then the only combination left open to them was of a ground-floor flat to the right and a third-floor flat to the left.

Still they kept this inspiration in reserve for use at the first opportunity.  In the mean time there were several flats which they thought they could almost make do:  notably one where they could get an extra servant’s room in the basement four flights down, and another where they could get it in the roof five flights up.  At the first the janitor was respectful and enthusiastic; at the second he had an effect of ironical pessimism.  When they trembled on the verge of taking his apartment, he pointed out a spot in the kalsomining of the parlor ceiling, and gratuitously said, Now such a thing as that he should not agree to put in shape unless they took the apartment for a term of years.  The apartment was unfurnished, and they recurred to the fact that they wanted a furnished apartment, and made their escape.  This saved them in several other extremities; but short of extremity they could not keep their different requirements in mind, and were always about to decide without regard to some one of them.

They went to several places twice without intending:  once to that old-fashioned house with the pleasant colored janitor, and wandered all over the apartment again with a haunting sense of familiarity, and then recognized the janitor and laughed; and to that house with the pathetic widow and the pretty daughter who wished to take them to board.  They stayed to excuse their blunder, and easily came by the fact that the mother had taken the house that the girl might have a home while she was in New York studying art, and they hoped to pay their way by taking boarders.  Her daughter was at her class now, the mother concluded; and they encouraged her to believe that it could only be a few days till the rest of her scheme was realized.

“I dare say we could be perfectly comfortable there,” March suggested when they had got away.  “Now if we were truly humane we would modify our desires to meet their needs and end this sickening search, wouldn’t we?”

“Yes, but we’re not truly humane,” his wife answered, “or at least not in that sense.  You know you hate boarding; and if we went there I should have them on my sympathies the whole time.”

“I see.  And then you would take it out of me.”

“Then I should take it out of you.  And if you are going to be so weak, Basil, and let every little thing work upon you in that way, you’d better not come to New York.  You’ll see enough misery here.”

“Well, don’t take that superior tone with me, as if I were a child that had its mind set on an undesirable toy, Isabel.”

“Ah, don’t you suppose it’s because you are such a child in some respects that I like you, dear?” she demanded, without relenting.

“But I don’t find so much misery in New York.  I don’t suppose there’s any more suffering here to the population than there is in the country.  And they’re so gay about it all.  I think the outward aspect of the place and the hilarity of the sky and air must get into the people’s blood.  The weather is simply unapproachable; and I don’t care if it is the ugliest place in the world, as you say.  I suppose it is.  It shrieks and yells with ugliness here and there but it never loses its spirits.  That widow is from the country.  When she’s been a year in New York she’ll be as gay ­as gay as an L road.”  He celebrated a satisfaction they both had in the L roads.  “They kill the streets and avenues, but at least they partially hide them, and that is some comfort; and they do triumph over their prostrate forms with a savage exultation that is intoxicating.  Those bends in the L that you get in the corner of Washington Square, or just below the Cooper Institute ­they’re the gayest things in the world.  Perfectly atrocious, of course, but incomparably picturesque!  And the whole city is so,” said March, “or else the L would never have got built here.  New York may be splendidly gay or squalidly gay; but, prince or pauper, it’s gay always.”

“Yes, gay is the word,” she admitted, with a sigh.  “But frantic.  I can’t get used to it.  They forget death, Basil; they forget death in New York.”

“Well, I don’t know that I’ve ever found much advantage in remembering it.”

“Don’t say such a thing, dearest.”

He could see that she had got to the end of her nervous strength for the present, and he proposed that they should take the Elevated road as far as it would carry them into the country, and shake off their nightmare of flat-hunting for an hour or two; but her conscience would not let her.  She convicted him of levity equal to that of the New-Yorkers in proposing such a thing; and they dragged through the day.  She was too tired to care for dinner, and in the night she had a dream from which she woke herself with a cry that roused him, too.  It was something about the children at first, whom they had talked of wistfully before falling asleep, and then it was of a hideous thing with two square eyes and a series of sections growing darker and then lighter, till the tail of the monstrous articulate was quite luminous again.  She shuddered at the vague description she was able to give; but he asked, “Did it offer to bite you?”

“No.  That was the most frightful thing about it; it had no mouth.”

March laughed.  “Why, my dear, it was nothing but a harmless New York flat ­seven rooms and a bath.”

“I really believe it was,” she consented, recognizing an architectural resemblance, and she fell asleep again, and woke renewed for the work before them.