We have a large farm, and a great
deal of work to get through, but then there are eight
or nine of us to share in the first and to do the
latter; yet we find that we never have time to do all
that we ought to do, and all that we want to do.
Every year brings with it an increasing amount of
labour, just to keep things going as they are, consequently
the time for enlarging the farm becomes more and more
limited. Thus it is, that though we cleared and
grassed a hundred and forty acres in our first year,
yet we have now only five or six hundred acres of grass
in our eighth.
Hampered as we were by the lack of
capital, and by the necessity of scraping and pinching
to meet those payments spoken of, it is little wonder
that we seem as poor and pauperized as we were at the
commencement. But we are by no means really so.
We are actually in very good circumstances. Our
farm is immensely increased in value, and is now beginning
to pay substantially. Another year will see the
sum completed, which will close the purchase of the
land. After that, we shall have means to make
outlays of sundry kinds, be able to build a fine house,
go in for marriage. Who knows what else?
The grass on our clearings is rich
and abundant, and, owing to the nature of the soil,
keeps fresh and green all through the dry season,
when other districts are crying out against the drought.
In spite of the standing stumps, the rough ground,
and the mere surface-sowing, our grass will carry
four sheep per acre all the year round; some of it
more. It is not all fenced in that
would be too much to expect but most of
it is; and what is not gives the milch cows plenty
of feed, and so keeps them from wandering off.
The clearings are not all in one piece. They
are divided off into paddocks, and there is a
good deal of standing bush among them, some of which
will eventually come down, and some of which will
be left.
We have now seven or eight hundred
head of sheep. We had to buy our original store
flock on credit, but the increase and wool has enabled
us to pay that off long since. Similarly, grass-seed,
some stock, and other things were bought on credit,
which has since been liquidated. What we have
is our own. We have had years of incessant toil,
the hardest possible work, with plenty of food, but
little comfort and no holidays to speak of. Two
or three years more of it, and then we shall be in
a condition to really enjoy the prosperity we have
laboured for.
Except at shearing and lambing seasons,
our Lincolns and Leicesters give us but little
trouble. We did try the merino breed, but they
broke through the fence and ran away into the bush,
where we occasionally see traces of them, and have
once or twice caught one and turned it into mutton.
Shearing is a great business, but we are all accomplished
hands at it now, and our bales are larger every year
as the flock increases. Wool is ready money here,
being an article that can always be negotiated at
once with the Auckland dealers. Our wool is reckoned
of even better quality than that grown on the great
sheepwalks of Canterbury and Otago.
During a great part of the year we
are milking ten to twenty cows daily, and, in spite
of the seeming inefficiency of our dairy arrangements,
we send a goodly store of butter and cheese to the
township, whence it goes to Auckland and elsewhere.
We fatten pigs, too, on skim-milk, maize, pumpkins,
and peaches grown by ourselves. A score or two
are usually to be seen on the clearings round the
shanty. We are able butchers and curers; and
Old Colonial excels in the manufacture of brawn, sausages,
collared head, and the like. Most of the pig-meat
is consumed by ourselves. In one form or other
it is our staple food. But occasionally we sell
a barrel of pork, or some flitches and hams, to such
local buyers as the bushmen employed at the saw-mills.
Dandy Jack talks of introducing Angora
goats. I do not know exactly why, but he appears
to think the project a good one. He has long ago
given up mere coaching. In fact, people began
to have doubts about entrusting themselves to his
driving, though I hesitate to record such a disagreeable
matter. He joined our society some years ago,
though he is not always with us, gravitating invariably
towards all the races, horse and cattle fairs of the
country. But he has set up as a horse breeder
and trainer, keeping his stud on our clearings, and
thus adding another industry to the various others
of our pioneer farm. This is a good thing for
us, as Jack’s horses come in very usefully sometimes,
for carrying or dragging purposes.
Our largest source of income just
at present is the herd. First there is the dairy
business, which I have already spoken of. The
milch cows keep on the clearings, or near to them,
and soon get tame enough to come up when called.
They are brought to the bails morning and evening,
fastened up, and given a feed of koraka. All
cattle are very fond of the leaves of the koraka-tree,
and it is used to entice them with when that is required.
Of course, it will be understood that, as there is
no cold winter here, we do not require to house our
cattle at any season, nor do we need to provide them
with hay or root food. They find their own living
all the year round, either in the bush or on the clearings,
and the most we do is to give them maize-stalks when
we have some.
The bulk of the herd, numbering now
upwards of two hundred head, runs free in the bush.
There is no native grass, as I have before mentioned,
and the feed is tree leafage. This suits the cattle,
and they fatten well upon it, though not turning out
very large beasts. But the pasture-fed cattle
of the South are not in prime condition for market
during the dry-season. Our bush-raised beasts
are, and this gives us a pull.
The best part of one man’s time
is always taken up with stock duty. To keep the
cattle from becoming unmanageably wild, and from getting
too far away, they must be constantly driven up to
the yards, and accustomed to discipline. It is
our practice to give every beast a night in the yard
at least once in six weeks. And it is also essentially
necessary to keep an eye on calving cows, for if the
calf is not brought up at once, branded, and so forth,
it will be sure to turn out wild and a rusher, and
then it would have to be shot at once, to prevent its
infecting other beasts.
Of course, we are all stockmen more
or less; but Old Colonial and the Saint are the chief
hands at this work. The latter gentleman did not
receive his appellation, as might be supposed, from
any relations which his character bore to it.
He was intended for the Church at one time; but, perhaps,
the Church is to be congratulated in that it did not
receive him. There is nothing mild or milk-and-watery
about our Saint, though he has his own peculiar moral
code, and is strictly scrupulous in its observance.
The Saint is the most elaborate swearer
I ever heard. That is, when he is driving cattle.
At other times he most conscientiously refrains from
everything but abstract rectitude of speech. He
says that you cannot drive cattle without swearing;
that they understand you so far, and never think you
are in earnest till they hear an oath. Whip and
dogs and roaring will not do without some good hearty
swearing, too. The Saint says so, and he ought
to know. He declares that he could never bring
up cattle unless he swore at them. I think I
have heard something similar from other drovers.
Perhaps some naturalist will be good enough to explain
this extraordinary characteristic of cattle.
The cattle associate themselves into
mobs. Each such mob is headed by an old bell-cow,
sometimes by two or three. Bulls, of which we
have now two, are sometimes with one mob and sometimes
with another. Individual beasts, belonging to
neighbours of ours, are to be found running with certain
mobs belonging to us, and the reverse is also the case.
We have to look after the strange beasts with our
own, and our neighbours do the same by us. At
musters, or when drafting for market, we make the
necessary exchanges. But we have only two neighbours
on this side the river who run cattle in the bush;
one lives six miles off, and the other fifteen.
We keep a stock-book, in which every
beast is entered. Each cow receives a name when
she becomes a mother, and her offspring are known by
numbers. Steers are never named. They have
only four years of it, being sent off to market at
the end of that time. Then a line is drawn through
the “Beauty’s third,” or “Rosebud’s
fourth,” which has designated their individuality
in the stock-book; and the price they have fetched
is entered opposite. The various mobs are known
by the names of the old cows that lead them.
Thus, we speak of “White Star’s mob,”
or “Redspot’s mob.”
It is the stockman’s duty to
know each individual beast, and also to know the members
that compose each mob. He has to go out with the
dogs almost every day to hunt up some mob or other.
Our bush is much too dense to admit of riding, except
along certain narrow tracks, partly natural and partly
cut with the axe, which serve as bridle-roads, and
keep open communication with distant settlements or
settlers’ places. So the member of our
fraternity who happens to be stockman has to go cattle-hunting
afoot.
Cattle-hunting, as we term this employment,
has a certain charm and air of sporting about it;
but it is by no means light work, especially in warm
weather. The stockman has to travel through pathless
woods all the time, and has an area of twenty to thirty
miles round our place in which to search for his cattle.
He takes some fixed route to start with, making for
some distant locality, where experience has taught
him such and such a mob are likely to be feeding.
On his way he takes note of any cattle he may come
across, marks the gullies they are in, and thus, having
knowledge of the ways of cattle, is able to guess within
a mile or two where those mobs are likely to be found
when wanted.
Moreover, a good stockman gets to
be experienced in tracking. He reads “sign”
in every broken bough or trampled water-hole, and this
guides him in finding the mob he wants. We know
the bush around us pretty well by this time, about
as well, in fact, as a cabman knows the streets of
London. It is all mapped out in our minds, and
we talk of various spots by name, either their Maori
names, if they have such, or fancy titles we have
given them.
Of course, the dogs are our main reliance,
though, even without them, such able hands as Old
Colonial and the Saint can get on well enough.
But clever, well-trained cattle-dogs are a treasure
beyond price in the bush; and this we know, taking
great pains with our colleys. The cattle
lie very close in the dense thickets of foliage, and
hide themselves from sight. One may run slap
into a beast before it will move. But the dogs
traverse the gullies on the stockman’s flanks,
and start up any cattle that may be in them.
Here is where the value of the dogs consists, for,
if they are not well-trained, they may run after wild
pigs, or rats, or kiwis, and give a lot of trouble.
Sometimes, after tracking the forest
for many a weary mile, the stockman will have to return
without finding the mob he wanted. Occasionally
he will have to camp out, not because of losing himself that
seldom happens to us now but because of
the distance he is from home. So a stockman rarely
goes out without three requisites about him food,
matches, and tobacco. Except in wet weather, camping
out is no particular hardship to us. One can
always make oneself comfortable enough in the bush,
if one has those three articles, that are the bushman’s
“never-be-withouts.”
When the cattle are found, belonging
to a mob that the stockman thinks proper to drive
home, comes some very heavy and exciting work.
We call our beasts tame, and so they are in a sense;
still, compared to the gentle creatures one sees on
English meadows, they are scarcely to be so characterized.
At one time a mob will head for home,
and go straight and quietly enough, needing only the
dogs at their heels to keep them in the right direction.
At another time the mob will scatter, and the members
of it prove very unruly. They will charge and
rush in every direction but the right one, and the
very devil seems to be in the beasts. Scrambling
up steep ranges, dashing down precipitous ravines,
and always forcing a passage through dense undergrowth
and jungle, plunging through marsh and bog, chasing
to right and to left, it is a wonder how dogs and men
get through the work they do. And often there
are miles and miles of this before the welcome clearing
comes in view.
What is the condition of a stockman
after he has brought up his mob and yarded it for
the night? He has walked and run and scrambled,
perhaps, twenty or thirty miles during the day, and
that not over a plain road, but through the rough
and hilly forest. He is totally tired out and
exhausted. He is dripping with sweat, caked with
mud from head to foot, his shirt torn to rags, his
skin scratched all over, and very likely some nasty
bruises from tumbles. He has hardly energy enough
left to wash himself. Supper does not revive
him, though he stows away an appallingly large one.
And then he stretches himself in his bunk and is happy.
Only, when morning comes again, he awakes stiff and
sore. But, no matter for that, inexorable duty
claims him for the same toil. And so wags our
daily life hard, unremitting, unromantic
labour, day after day, year after year. Still
we say it is a glorious life, and we believe what
we say. Anyhow, it is better than being chained
to a desk, or growing purblind “poring over
miserable books.”
If you can only realize what cattle-hunting
means, the shouting and roaring after them and the
dogs, the loss of temper that fatigue induces, and
the consequent aggravation when beasts are unruly,
perhaps you will forgive the Saint for his “exuberant
verbosity” in relation to cattle. Even
a real saint might swear under the circumstances, and
be held excused by his peers in the celestial hierarchy.
Our four-year-old steers do not show
very large, considered from English farmers’
points of view. Fifteen or sixteen hundred lbs.
is about the maximum of our fat beasts. But the
beef is of first-rate quality; and as bush-fed beasts
are in good condition at the end of the dry season,
when pasture-raised cattle are poor, we do as well
by them as could be desired. The bush is always
cool and fresh and moist, even when all the grass
is withered and brown on the pastures; and this is
one of the reasons why we prefer bush-land to open-land
for pioneer farming.
There is a standing controversy waged
among settlers, as to whether it is better to take
up such land as ours or to go in for a tract of open
fern-land. On open lands you can easily clear
the ground, and, though it will not, as a rule, yield
grass for mere surface-sowing, yet the plough can
be put into it within a year or two. But the cost
of fencing it is much higher; and the open-land farmer
must wait longer for returns such as will keep him.
He has no bush-feed for cattle as we have, and it is
cattle that the pioneer relies on for his support at
first. It is eight or twelve years before the
bush-farmer gets a chance of ploughing; but then his
cattle keep him going from the outset. Also, our
burnt clearings will yield us good grass for surface-sowing,
which will feed sheep until the stumps have rotted
and the plough can be used. The sum of it is
that open-lands will pay a man with good capital quicker,
while bush-lands are the only possible thing for such
poorer folk as ourselves.
We send steers to Auckland market
two or three times a year. Once or twice we have
driven them overland, a distance of eighty miles or
so by the map. This is not so far, certainly;
but then there are no proper roads, and most of the
way lies through thick bush. There is a faint
apology for a bridle-track through the forest, not
very easy to find, which strikes the Great North Road
about twenty miles from here. And this same Great
North Road, in spite of a pretentious title, and also
in spite of being marked in the maps with a heavy
black line, as though it were a highway of the Watling
Street description, is just a mere bridle-track, too,
hardly discoverable at all for the greater portion
of its length.
Two or three of us ride along these
tracks with the cattle. One or two have to be
most of the time on foot, while the third leads their
horses. They are plunging through the otherwise
impenetrable scrub after dogs and cattle, which last
will not keep the line. The whole journey takes
about a week. We camp down at night, and half
the next day is taken up with hunting for some of
the beasts that have strayed. Usually one or
two are lost altogether before Auckland is reached.
This sort of thing hardly pays, unless
a considerable number of beasts have to be sent at
once; and then the steers have lost condition before
they can be got to market. I have had some experience
of this cattle-driving work; and of all the aggravating
jobs I know, it certainly is the very worst.
We usually send up our fat steers
in batches of a dozen or so at a time, and prefer
now to have them conveyed by water. When we have
arranged to do so, there is a grand muster of the
herd. Mob after mob is brought up and enclosed
in the fenced clearings, until we have collected together
all we deem necessary.
Then comes the job of drafting out
the steers selected for market. This is a work
of difficulty. All hands are required to achieve
it, and often several neighbours will come over to
assist. A small paddock, or a stockyard, opens
out of the larger one wherein the herd is assembled.
The slip-panels between are guarded by four men.
Others on horseback, armed with the formidable loud-cracking
stock-whips, drive the cattle slowly towards the gate.
Then comes the tug of war. Each man uses all
his endeavours to drive the chosen steers through the
gate, while the rest are excluded.
A regular battle is fought over every
steer; for the guardians of the gate often fail in
preventing other beasts from getting through as well,
as they will not separate. Then the driving is
renewed from the other side. The cattle get wild
and furious, charging and rushing at everything and
everybody, and the men on foot have to look out for
themselves very warily. The racket and row make
up an indescribable din.
As each four-year-old is finally drafted
out, it is driven into a separate yard, until all
are secured there. Then the bulk of the herd
are turned loose into the bush again. By-and-by,
perhaps a day or two later, comes the job of shipping
the steers. In order to effect this they are
transferred to a stockyard on the beach.
We have chartered a sea-going cutter,
and she lies off in the river, possibly two or three
hundred yards from the beach. A rope connects
her with the beach; and the noosed end of this is
passed over the horns of one of the steers in the
yard. Then comes a tussle to get that particular
beast out of the yard while the others shall be kept
in. Often, in spite of the dreaded stockwhips,
one of the guardians of the slip-panels gets knocked
over, and then away goes the mob of terrified beasts,
tearing along the beach, and giving no end of trouble
to get them back again. Once, I remember, a heavy
steer bounded clean over the eight-foot fence of the
stockyard, and got away.
When the roped animal is got out on
the beach, a ring of men drives him down to the water,
the people on board the cutter hauling at the rope
meanwhile. By this means he is easily got alongside
of her, when once he is off his legs and swimming.
Then a sling is passed under his belly, tackle is
affixed, and, with a “Yeo, heave ho!” he
is lifted on board and deposited in the hold.
Then the process begins afresh until all the batch
is shipped.
The cutter sails down the river and
out through the Heads into the open sea. She
then coasts down and enters the Manukau Harbour, going
up to Onehunga to unload. Onehunga is only six
miles from Auckland, of which it is practically a
part, being the port of the city on the west coast.
It is connected with Auckland by railway and macadamized
carriage-road.
In Auckland market fat cattle sell
at twenty to thirty shillings per hundred lbs., sometimes
even a little more. Our beasts usually fetch us
ten or twelve pounds apiece, after deducting freightage,
and our agent’s charges for receiving and selling
them. This year, our herd of two hundred head
yielded us three batches of four-year-old fat steers,
each batch containing about a dozen head.
When cattle breed wild in the bush
they may be a source of considerable annoyance and
loss. This does not matter in remoter districts,
such as the recesses of the Hokianga forests.
Wild cattle abound there, possibly in hundreds; and
the Maoris make a good thing by hunting them for their
hides. There are no settlers’ cattle running
in the bush there; but where there are, wild cattle
would make them as wild as themselves, and would spoil
a herd in no time. When they appear in a district,
cattle-farmers have to combine to hunt them down and
extirpate them.
Once there were some wild cattle in
the bush between Te Pahi and Paparoa, on the opposite
side of our river. The settlers of Paparoa were
hunting them down, and we were warned to look out,
for fear the beasts should take to the water.
They did do so, and a whole mob of them tried to swim
over to our side.
Fortunately we were on the look-out.
At once a party took to the boats, while others watched
along the shore. We were in a great funk about
the matter, for if the wild bulls got over to our
side it might mean almost ruin for us. So we
charged gallantly at them in the water, and strove
to head them back to the other side, where the Paparoa
men were waiting for them.
Such guns as we had were brought out,
but they were little good, not being rifled, and we
had no ball cartridge. Dandy Jack performed prodigies
of valour with an old harpoon; and O’Gaygun used
his axe with great success. Altogether, the excitement
was great and the sport good. One bull overturned
a boat, as it rowed alongside him; but the Fiend,
who was in it, adroitly clambered on to the animal’s
back as it swam, and, with great difficulty, managed
to open its throat with his knife. Seven or eight
were killed in the water. Even the despised new-chums’
pistols were brought into use, and in this emergency
they proved really valuable. The beasts that
effected the crossing were slaughtered on the beach;
and altogether we killed some eighteen or twenty.
We prevented them thus from getting into our bush,
so saving our own herd from contamination. This
has been our only experience of the kind in this district,
luckily.
There was an incident that happened
once, in connection with cattle, of rather an unusual
sort. So much so, in fact, that most people to
whom we have at times spoken of it have doubted our
veracity. I suppose it will add but little weight
to the story if I premise it with the assertion that
it is simple truth. Nevertheless, it is
actual fact, believe it or not who list.
There was a grand assemblage at the
station of a friend and neighbour of ours, on one
of the Kaipara rivers. He had been running a large
herd, over a thousand head of cattle, and was now
going to dispose of the greater number. This
was because the feed for them was getting short in
his immediate neighbourhood; and because his land was
now becoming ready for sheep and the plough.
Nearly all the men in the district
had been asked to come and assist at the mustering,
drafting, and so on, of the herd. It was a gathering
of the kind known in America as a “bee.”
And as a bee usually winds up with festivity, feasting,
dancing, and the like, such femininities as the district
possessed were brought over by their respective husbands
or male relatives. While we busied ourselves
with the cattle in the yard and on the run, the ladies
were occupied with industries peculiar to themselves
indoors, giving the mistress of the house the benefit
of a sewing, scandal, and cooking bee, probably.
We had been all day hard at work,
and had pretty well got through all there was to do.
Most of the cattle had been drafted into yards, had
been branded or handled as required, and the work was
nearly complete. Towards sundown we came to be
most of us assembled about one of the yards.
This was a stockyard, or paddock,
of about two acres in extent, and within it an obstinate
young bull remained solus, holding his own against
us. It was necessary, for purposes which need
not be specified, that the beast should be thrown
and tied down. We usually accomplish the overthrow
of big beasts by noosing their legs, and so tripping
them up; but this bull was far too wary to let any
one get near him, and was wild and vicious, moreover.
Several of us had been fruitlessly trying, for an
hour or more, to do something with him, and our host
was now saying the beast had better be shot out of
hand; but we had spent so much time over him already
that we did not like to give in, and resolved we would
throw him anyhow. None of us could stay inside
the fence, so fierce were the rushes of the bull,
and he was too cunning to let himself be caught by
coming near the rails.
As man after man concluded his other
tasks, and came up to assist, our perplexity seemed
to increase. Various plans were discussed, and
put in operation, but the bull baffled them all.
There was beginning to be a good deal of ill-temper
and swearing among us.
And now Dandy Jack appeared on the
scene. He had not been with us during the day,
having just rowed over from somewhere else. Of
course he had gravitated towards the house when he
arrived, and had been sunning himself in the ladies’
smiles. Now he was strolling out to have a pipe,
and to see what we were about.
Tired, ill-tempered, and covered with
muck as we all were, there was a tendency among us
to resent this late arrival of Master Dandy Jack’s;
and this feeling, you may be sure, was not lessened
by a contemplation of the extravagant cleanliness
and daintiness of apparel that, as usual, pervaded
this spruce lady-killer’s outward man.
He was hailed with a volley of sarcasm
and personalities, amid which he stood, hands in pockets
and pipe in mouth, placidly surveying us and the situation.
At length, when a pause in the tempest of words gave
him an opportunity of speaking, he said, in his softest
and most delicate tones
“I see before me a number of
gentlemen with whom I have the honour to be more or
less acquainted. They are all hot, dirty, and
disagreeable. I also see a stockyard, and within
it four quarters of fresh beef, likewise hot, dirty,
and disagreeable. There would seem to be a difficulty
somewhere. Can I assist in removing it?”
He was answered by a burly giant of
a bushman, a Wairoa man, who had scant knowledge of
our dandy.
“P’raps you’ll be
so blanked polite as to show us how to capsize that
blanked beast,” he said, adding with bitter irony,
“if it ain’t too much to ask from such
a blanked, pretty, drawing-room ornament!”
“Oh, certainly! with all the
pleasure in life!” responded Dandy Jack urbanely.
“Will you kindly keep my pipe alight for a minute?”
Then, to everybody’s amazement,
he vaulted over the fence and approached the bull.
Instantly that animal saw him, down went his head,
of course, and up went his tail, as he charged upon
the sauntering figure. But Jack dodged the rush
with the nimbleness of a practised picador; and the
bull crashed against the fence. Again and again
the same performance was repeated, while we all watched
round the fence, calling to Jack at intervals to come
out of his dangerous situation. He only nodded
carelessly, and continued to saunter about as if no
bull was near him.
Presently, the bull stood stock-still,
then commenced pawing the ground, tossing his head
and tail, bellowing, and eyeing Jack, who was leisurely
moving towards him right in front. He had apparently
grown tired of charging this figure that always eluded
him, and was uncertain what to do next. So Dandy
Jack walked on till he was within a yard or two of
the bull’s nose. Then the beast thought
it was time to do something, and concluded to try
the effect of one more rush.
But he was too late. Directly
that his angry head went down, with a preparatory
sweep, Dandy Jack, whose assumed carelessness really
covered a preternatural degree of alertness, sprang
at him.
It was all done so quickly that we
spectators could hardly distinguish what was happening.
We saw Jack seize one of the bull’s horns with
both hands, we saw him place his foot upon the other.
Then came a wrench and a wrestle, all in the space
of one moment, and then Jack was whirling through
the air, to fall lightly enough on the soft ground
half a dozen yards off.
But the bull lay rolling on his back.
That twist of his head had overbalanced him.
And before he could recover himself and scramble to
his feet, we had sprang over the fence and got him
securely tied with our ready ropes.
A few minutes later, our eccentric
chum was quietly sitting on the prostrate and helpless
carcase of his late antagonist. With his usual
dainty care he was ridding himself of the dust and
dirt that had soiled him when he fell. The Wairoa
man was regarding him in blank astonishment.
Clearly, Dandy Jack was an entirely new species of
the genus homo to him. Thus spake the
bull-fighter, with elaborate affectation of languor
and softness
“Look here, old fellow!
You don’t understand what a bull is. I’ll
tell you. It’s a thing that some people
look at from the safe side of the fence, and that
other people take by the horns.”
This was hardly fair upon the giant,
perhaps. But after his doughty deed, Dandy Jack
was to be excused if he improved the occasion, and
revenged himself for the sneer that had previously
been cast upon him.
Oh! we are getting on fast and famously
now, with our farm. The stumps on the first clearing
are now completely rotten; so we have pulled them
out, piled them in heaps, and burnt them. This
clearing is ready for the plough. Besides, there
is a piece of flat, marshy ground below our shanty
on the left, and this was only covered originally with
flax, swamp-grass, and small shrubs. In the dry
season we have burnt this off as it stood. The
soil is not deep, but it is good, and we shall plough
this in with the other. There will be about fifty
acres of plough land altogether, and twice as much
more next year, or the year after.
We have borrowed a plough and harrows
from a neighbour, and are going to work. Ploughing
is quite a new industry up here. There are some
of the settlers round who have got lands under plough
before this; but not to any great extent. To
us it seems to open up a boundless vista of opulence,
and there is no end to our speculations, and to the
general excitement in our shanty.
Wheat! We must grow it, of course;
and a flour-mill at the township is an imperative
necessity. Somebody must start one, and that quickly.
Why should we go on eating Adelaide flour, when we
are growing wheat ourselves? They have reaped
sixty and eighty bushels to an acre, in the South
Island, and their average is thirty! So Old Colonial
tells us. Well, our land is richer than theirs,
and our climate is better too, so much cannot be gainsaid.
Ergo, we shall have better crops. South
Island corn has been sold in London at a profit; and
has been judged first-class in quality. Ergo,
again, ours must infallibly top the markets of the
world. That is, what we are going to grow,
you understand.
Then there is the great sugar question.
Government is always offering divers incentives to
new industries. It has offered a bonus of L500
to whomsoever produces the first fifty tons of beet-root
sugar in New Zealand. That is, over and above
what the sugar may fetch in the market. We say,
why should not we go in for it? So many acres
of beet, a crushing mill, a few coppers and some tubs,
and there you are! Wealth, my boy! Wealth!
But O’Gaygun has misgivings.
“This is not a whate-growin’ counthry,”
he declares. It is far too rough and hilly.
There are too many difficulties in the way. You
can grow wheat to a certain extent, of course.
The North can produce enough for its own consumption,
and more. It will pay as one among other operations
and productions. But we must not think of it as
our principal or staple industry.
And then as to sugar. You must
have a couple of hundred acres of beet at least, to
begin with. A mill and appliances that are to
be of real use would cost L2000 or so. Your bonus
would be but a small thing if you got it. If
all the farmers in the district were to combine to
grow beet-root on every acre they could plough, and
nothing else, even then it would hardly pay the sugar-mills,
or possibly the farmers either. Stick to cattle
and sheep, to pigs and potatoes, “Ontil ye’re
able to give ye’re attintion to fruit.
Fruit! Whativver ye can do wid it, that’s
what this counthry’s made for! Wine! an’
île! an’ raisins! an’ ”
“Oh, shut up, O’Gaygun!
Get out, you miserable misanthrope!”
Nevertheless, I think our Irish chum
was about right in what he said, after all, especially
in the last part of his remarks.
Dandy Jack had been training horses,
and Old Colonial had been gentling bullocks; so we
had a choice of draggers for the plough. We ploughed
in those fifty acres, fenced them round, and put in
potatoes for a cleaning crop, to thoroughly break
up the old turf. We hope to get two crops in
the year. The second will be maize and pumpkins.
Then, next year, wheat.
The new-ploughed land is surveyed
with rapture by us; but it is something different
from an English field, after all. The ground was
so irregular and rough; our beasts were not too easy
to manage; and then but this is unimportant it
was our first essay at ploughing. The furrows
are not exactly straight, and there is a queer, shaggy
look about them. But the potatoes are in, and
a crop we shall have, no doubt about it. What
more can possibly be needed?
I have mentioned that we have several
enclosures that may be termed gardens. So we
have, and what they produce fully bears out O’Gaygun’s
opinion, as to this being essentially a fruit country.
Of course our spade industry gives us all the vegetables
we require, when we lay ourselves out for it.
The worst of growing anything except roots is the
immense amount of weeding required; the weeds spring
in no time; and they are of such a savage sort in
this fertile land.
We grow large quantities of melons water-melons,
musk-melons, rock-melons, Spanish melons, pie-melons,
and so on. Also, we grow marrows and pumpkins
in profusion, as the pigs are fed on them as well
as ourselves. These plants do not want much weeding.
They may be grown, too, among the maize. Kumera,
or sweet potatoes, we grow a good deal of; also many
other vegetables, when we think we have time to plant
them.
But in fruit we excel. There
is a neighbour of ours who goes in for tree-culture
exclusively, and who has a nursery from which he supplies
Auckland. To him we owe a greater variety than
we should otherwise have, perhaps.
First, there are peaches. We
have a great number of trees, as they will grow from
the stone. We eat them in quantities; pickling,
preserving, and drying them sometimes. But the
principal use to which we put them is to fatten our
pigs. We have several kinds of peaches, coming
on at different seasons. The earliest kind are
ripe about Christmas, and other sorts keep on ripening
to March or April. Then we have some few apricots,
nectarines, plums, cherries, loquats, etc.,
all yielding bounteously.
The last are a very delicious fruit,
ripening about October or November. Figs we have
till late into the winter, and they begin again early;
we are very fond of them. Oranges, lemons, and
shaddocks grow fairly well, and are fruiting all the
year round. Apples do badly, being subject to
blight, though the young trees grow rapidly, and, if
freely pruned, will yield enormous crops. To
obviate the blight we keep a constant succession of
young trees to replace those that are killed.
Pears are not subject to the blight, and do well.
Grapes are very luxuriant; and, no doubt, this will
be a wine-country in the future. Already, some
people at Mangawai have made good wine, and have started
a little trade in it. Of strawberries, guavas,
Cape gooseberries, and other small fruit we have a
little. The former fruit so plenteously here,
that the leaves are entirely hidden by the clusters
of berries and blossom. The second is a bush;
and the last a plant like a nettle, which sows itself
all over. The fruit is nice.
Both the gardens and the clearings
are subject to a horrible plague of crickets.
They are everywhere, and eat everything. But turkeys
and ducks fatten splendidly on them, acquiring a capital
gamey flavour. Cricket-fed turkey would shame
any stubble-fed bird altogether, both as to fatness
and meatiness and flavour. We have hundreds of
turkeys wild about the place, which keep down the
crickets a good deal. Although we eat them freely,
they increase very rapidly, like everything else here.
The worst of it is they will not leave the grapes alone,
and if they would the crickets won’t, which
is a difficulty in the way of vine-growing. But
notwithstanding that, some of us are convinced that
wine-making is the coming industry of the Kaipara.
Then there is the olive, and the mulberry for serici-culture.
Both these things are to come. Experiment has
been made in growing them, but that is all as yet.
Tobacco, too, will have its place. It grows well;
and the Maoris sometimes smoke their own growth.
We prefer the Virginian article. A man at Papakura
has done well with tobacco, we hear. Government
has bonused him, so it is said; and his manufactured
product is to be had in all the Auckland shops strong,
full-flavoured stuff; wants a little more care in
manufacture, perhaps.
Tobacco, like some other things we
have tried hops, castor-oil, spices, drugs,
and so on needs cheap labour for picking.
That is the sine qua non to success in these
things. And for cheap labour we must wait, I
suppose, till we are able to marry, and to rear those
very extensive families of children, which are one
of the special products of this fruitful country,
and which are also such aids to the pioneer in getting
on.
Take it altogether, we the
pioneers of Te Pahi are of opinion that
pioneer-farming here is a decided success. We
are satisfied that it yields, and will yield, a fair
return for the labour we have invested in it.
We think that we are in better case, on the whole,
than we should have been after eight years’
work at other avocations in the old country.
Putting aside the question of the magnificent health
we enjoy and that is no small thing we
are on the high road to a degree of competence we
might never have attained to in England. Not that
we wish to decry England; on the contrary, we would
like to return there. But for a visit, merely.
Here is our home, now. The young country that
is growing out of its swaddling clothes, and that we
hope, and we know, will one day be a Brighter Britain
in deed and in truth.