We have a show-place, and one of which
we are excessively proud. It is not a castle,
a baronial hall, or ruined abbey, as one would expect
a properly constituted show-place to be at
“home.” In this new country, it is
needless to say, we have no antiquities of that sort.
Yet this place, of which we are so proud, and that
it delights us to extol to strangers, has a history
that renders its singular picturesqueness additionally
striking.
Mere scenery is never so effective
if it has no story to tell. There must be something,
be it fact or fiction, to attach to a place before
its beauties can be fully appreciated. The charm
of poetry and romance is a very real one, and can
add much to one’s enjoyment of a particular
view. I suppose that something is needed to interest
and attract the intelligence, at the same moment that
the sense of sight is captivated, so that a double
result is produced.
Scotland is one fair example of this.
Fine as the scenery there may be, is it to be supposed
that alone would attract such hordes of tourists every
summer? Certainly not; it is the history associated
with each spot that throws a glamour over it.
Much magnificence of nature is passed by unheeded
in Scotland, because history or tradition has conferred
a higher title to regard upon some less picturesque
place beyond. The fiction and poetry of Scott,
and of Burns and others in less degree, have clothed
the mountains and the glens with a splendid lustre,
that causes people to view their natural beauties
through a mental magnifying glass. Nature unadorned
seldom gets the admiration bestowed on it that it
does when added to by art.
But why pursue this topic? Every
one knows and feels the power that associations have
of rendering picturesque nature more picturesque still.
Therefore, a show-place, to be regarded as such in
the true sense of the word, must possess features
of interest of another kind, underlying the external
loveliness of form and outline that merely please
and captivate the eye.
Here, in our Britain of the South
Sea, we have abundance and variety of the most glorious
and splendid scenery. So far as wild nature is
concerned, there is nothing in Europe that we cannot
match. Our Alps might make Switzerland envious;
one or two of our rivers are more beautiful than the
Rhine; the plains of Canterbury are finer than midland
England; the rolling ranges and lakes of Otago may
bear comparison with Scotland and with Wales; Mount
Egmont or Tongariro would make Vesuvius blush; the
hot-spring region of Rotomahana and Rotorua contains
wonders that cannot be matched between Iceland and
Baku; and here in the North our forest country is
grander than the Tyrol, and more voluptuously lovely
than the wooded shores of the Mediterranean. At
least, that is what those who have seen all can say.
But, though nature has given us such
sublime triumphs of her raw material, these have no
history, no spirit. They tell to us no story of
the past; and poetry has not crowned them with a diadem
of romance. Hence their effect is partly lost,
and when we New Zealanders go “home” for
a trip, we find a charm in the time-hallowed landscapes
of the Old World, above and beyond all our greater
scenic glories here.
Still, here and there in this new
land, we have contrived to invest some special spot
with a kind of infant spirit or baby romance of its
own. Here and there our short history has left
a landmark, or Maori tradition a monument. Already
we are beginning to value these things; already we
are conscious of the added interest they give to our
scenery. But to our children’s children,
and to their descendants, some of these places will
speak with more vivid earnestness. They will appreciate
the stories that as yet are so new, and will take
a rare and lively pleasure in the scenery enriched
by the tale of their pioneer ancestors, or by legends
of the native race that then will be extinct.
New Zealand has even now what may
be termed its “classic ground,” as will
be found in another chapter. But there exists
a great deal of Maori tradition connected with various
spots, and some of us do the best we can to preserve
the tales that adorn certain localities. Some
of the legends are mythological. Of such sort
is that which gives such vivid interest to lonely
Cape Reinga; the place where the spirits of dead Maori
take their plunge into the sea, on their way from earth
to the next world. Such, too, is the dragon legend,
the tale of the Taniwha, which graces the volcanic
country in the interior.
Besides these are the numerous stories
of a more historical sort, incidents of love and war,
which hang around the places where they happened.
A country like this, so rich in natural beauties, so
filled with the glories and magnificences of
the Creator’s hand, is surely
“Meet nurse for
a poetic child.”
It is not surprising, then, that we
find the Maori character actively alive to such impressions.
The oldest men absolutely revel in the abundance of
the tales, both prose and poetry, that they are able
to relate about the scenes around them. But Young
Maori is more civilized, and does not trouble his
head so much with these old narratives. It is
well, then, that some should be preserved while that
is possible.
Old Colonial is a great hand at yarns.
He loves to hear himself talk, and, in truth, he can
tell a tale in first-class dramatic fashion.
O’Gaygun and Dandy Jack are both given to the
same thing a good deal. They run Old Colonial
pretty close in all respects save one, and that is
when he gets into a peculiarly Maori vein. There
they cannot follow him, for neither has achieved his
command over the intricacies of Maori rhetoric, nor
has that intimate experience of the natives, which
enables Old Colonial to enter so thoroughly into the
spirit and character of their narrations.
As I know that Old Colonial’s
hands are more accustomed to the axe than to the pen,
and that he will never take the trouble to give his
wonderful collection of anecdotes to a larger audience
than his voice can reach, I have made notes of his
narratives, and some day, perhaps, shall put them
in print. In the meantime, I may as well mention,
that, it was from his lips that I heard the tale of
our show-place.
One day, some lime was wanted on the
farm for some purpose or other, and it became a question
as to how we had better get it. The usual method
employed in the neighbourhood was to utilize oysters
for this purpose. A rude kiln would be constructed
in the bank, where it sloped down to the river-beach.
In this would be placed alternate layers of dead wood
and of living oysters, with a proper vent. The
burn usually resulted in a fair supply of good shell-lime,
than which there can be no better.
But on this occasion we wanted a tolerably
large quantity of lime, so that there were objections
to the plan I have just detailed. For though
oysters abounded on our beach, and covered the rocks
that low-tide laid bare, yet, when a good many tons
of them were wanted, all of which must be gathered
with a handshovel and carried on men’s backs
to the kiln, it became evident that a considerable
amount of labour must be undergone before our ultimate
object could be attained.
Now, one of the first and chiefest
considerations of the pioneer-farmer is always how
he may most closely economize time and labour.
It is particularly necessary for him, because of the
scarcity of the latter commodity, and the consequent
pressure upon the first. It is usually a strictly
personal question.
On this occasion the subject was debated
at one of our nightly parliaments in the shanty.
Then the Saint broke out with one of those quaintly
simple remarks that used to amuse us so much.
He said
“I don’t think it can
be right to burn oysters, you know. It must hurt
them so awfully, poor things!”
Of course, we all laughed long and
loudly. It seemed too ridiculous to consider
the possibilities of an oyster feeling pain.
“Well done, Saint!” was
the general exclamation; “that’s a good
excuse to get yourself off a job of humping over the
rocks.”
The Saint flushed up, and proceeded
argumentatively, “Look here! Wouldn’t
it be better to burn dead shells?”
“F’what did shells is
it, me dear?” asked O’Gaygun, in a wheedling
tone.
“Well, there’s plenty on Marahemo, for
instance.”
Marahemo, I may mention, is a hill
about three miles back from the river. It is
about one thousand feet high, I suppose, and lies behind
our land.
“Did ye ivver hear the loike
av that, now?” roared O’Gaygun, boisterously.
“Here’s the bhoy for ye! Here’s
the bhoy that’s afraid to ate an eyester fur
fear av hurtin’ the baste, an’ that’s
goin’ to hump Marahemo down to the farrum, aal
so bould an’ gay! Shure now, thim’s
the shouldhers that can do that same!”
After a brief, friendly passage of
arms between the two, the Saint continued hotly
“Well, all I can say is, it
seems to me more sensible to burn our lime on Marahemo
and to hump it down here, than to hump oysters along
the beach, and then have to hump the lime again up
from there.”
“By Jove!” broke in Old
Colonial, “the boy’s right, I believe.
Shut up, you Milesian mudhead, and listen to me.
Right from the old pa on the top of Marahemo down
to the very foot, there’s the Maori middens:
a regular reef of nothing but shell, oysters and pipi
and scollops and all the rest. There must be
hundreds and hundreds of tons of pure shell. All
we’ve got to do is to make a kiln near the bottom
and shovel the shell into it; and there’s any
amount of firewood, dead stuff, round about.”
“Well, but look at the long
hump from there down to the farm.”
“I know; but won’t it
be simpler to do that than to collect oysters on the
beach? We should have to hump treble the weight
of the lime we should get after burning them.
And then we should have to hump the lime at least
half a mile up from the beach. There is a track
through the bush up to Marahemo, and we could easily
open it a bit. Half a day’s work for the
lot of us would make it passable for a bullock-sled;
or we might pack the lime down on some of Dandy Jack’s
horses. Then the stuff we should get there would
be easier burnt and make better lime. And we
could make enough to supply the neighbourhood.
A few boat-loads sold at a fair price would pay us
for our work, and we should have the lime we want
for our own use as pure profit. If we didn’t
find a market on the rivers, I’m certain it
would pay to charter a schooner, load her up, and
send her round to the Manukau. Auckland has to
get all her lime from Whangarei or Mahurangi as it
is.”
So the thing was settled, and we went
to work on Marahemo as lime-burners.
One day when we were “nooning,”
Old Colonial and I chanced to be together on the top
of Marahemo. We were looking at the splendid
prospect, glorious under the mid-day sun. All
around us was bush a dense jungle of shrubs
and trees. The conical hill on which we stood
was thickly clothed, and all round, over the steep,
rough ranges, the abrupt ravines and gullies, with
their brawling streams, was spread the one variegated
mantle of gorgeous foliage.
Since then I have seen certain of
the far-famed forests of the tropics, but I must candidly
say that the scenery they offer is, on the whole,
far less striking and beautiful than that of the bush
of Northern New Zealand. The colouring is not
so good; in the mass, it is not so lustrous, nor so
varied. The rich flowers are hidden away, so that
the fewer and less gaudy blossoms of our bush are
more conspicuous, because severally more plentiful.
But a woodland scene in England, the old home across
the seas, even surpasses all in the glory of its autumn
dress.
From where we stood on Marahemo we
could see for considerable distances, where the ranges
did not intervene. Here and there, through some
vista of wooded gullies, we could catch a glimpse
of shining river reaches, and, in one or two directions,
could make out the house of some neighbour, easily
distinguishable in the pure atmosphere, though possibly
ten or twelve miles distant.
Looking towards the west, we could
see our own farm. The distance was just enough
to mellow the view softly. The shanty looked neat
and tidy; the grass in the paddocks bright and
fresh; the fences appeared regular and orderly; the
asperities and irregularities of the ground were not
seen, even the stumps were almost hidden; and the cattle
and sheep that dotted the clearings might have been
browsing on English meadows, so fair and smooth was
the picture. As we looked on our home thus, the
growth of our labour, we realized our independence
of the outer world. And I dare say that, for
a moment, “our hearts were lifted up within
us,” to use the Scriptural phraseology.
I believe I was guilty, under the
inspiration of the scene, of uttering some sentimental
nonsense or other, in which occurred reference to
“primeval forests,” or something of the
sort. Old Colonial took me up shortly
“’Tain’t primeval,”
he said. “There’s the heavy bush,
the real primeval stuff,” pointing to a well-marked
line that commenced about half a mile further back.
“No,” he continued; “all
this round us is only about fifty years old.”
“Only fifty years!” I
exclaimed wonderingly, for the woods looked to me
as old as the New Forest, at least; judging by the
size and luxuriance of the trees.”
“Oh, here and there, there are
older trees; but half a century ago all this land
was under Maori cultivation.”
Then he showed me the old ramparts
that had defended the crest of the hill. A double
bank of earth, now all overgrown with trees and shrubs,
not unlike the outlines of ancient British and Roman
encampments. On every point around us similar
traces could be found, showing that the district had
been thickly inhabited. As the Maoris had no grazing
stock in those days, and no grass in these parts,
their lands were solely spade-cultivations. Some
thousands of acres between the Pahi and the Wairau
had once grown their taro and kumera and hue, together
with potatoes and other things introduced by Captain
Cook.
Marahemo Pa was the capital of the
district. Its position, occupying the crest of
a sugar-loaf hill, defended by earthworks and stockades,
must have made it seem impregnable to people unacquainted
with artillery. The space enclosed was considerable;
and the immense quantities of shells thrown down the
sides of the hill attested the numbers of its population for
all the shell-fish would have to be brought up here
on the backs of women and slaves from the beach, which
is over three miles distant; and shell-fish was by
no means the principal item of the Maori commissariat.
“That must have been the way
they went,” said Old Colonial, looking in a
direction where a strip of the Arapaoa was visible
through a gap made in the ranges by a narrow gully.
“Who went?” I asked, for I did not follow
his thought.
“Hoosh!” cried he.
“Do you mean to say you’ve never heard
the story of the battle and capture of Marahemo, the
tale of Te Puke Tapu?”
No, I had not heard it. At least,
I remembered only some confused account of a conflict
having taken place at the latter spot, which, being
our show-place, I had often seen and knew well.
“Well,” said Old Colonial,
“there’s no time now; but we’ve got
to get some schnapper for supper to-night, so you
and I will go and fish down the Arapaoa yonder; then
I’ll tell you.”
In the evening we were sitting in
the boat, anchored in the river nearly opposite our
much venerated show-place. We were fishing with
line and bait, diligently securing a supper and breakfast
for ourselves and the rest of the company who make
our shanty their home. Every now and then either
of us would pull up a great pink slab-sided schnapper,
a glistening silvery mullet, or a white-bellied whapuka;
we were in a good pitch, and the fish were biting
freely. Our minds were relieved from the anxiety
of a possible shortness of provisions. The scenery
around us is truly magnificent, if only it were possible
to describe it. I must, however, try to convey
an idea of its outlines.
We are lying in the Arapaoa Firth,
at the point where it loses its distinctive name and
divides into three heads. These three lesser
firths, together with the main creek that flows into
each above the point where the tide reaches, are respectively
the Pahi, the Paparoa, and the Matakohe.
Our boat seems to be floating in a
lake, rather than in a river, for here the Arapaoa
is between three and four miles across. Looking
down to the right we see it stretching away, between
bold, high banks of irregular outline, flowing down
to the harbour and the sea thirty miles off.
To our left is our own river, the Pahi, narrower than
the other. It is, perhaps, a mile across at the
mouth. Its shores present a diminishing perspective
of woods; and, as mangroves line the beach on
either side, the leafage and the water seem to melt
into one another. Five or six miles up, the ranges
rise higher and run together, so that the beautiful
Pahi appears to lose itself in the forest.
The opposite shore of the Pahi ends
in a high bluff that, from our point of view, appears
like an island in the expanse of gleaming water.
Round the base of the bluff are gathered the white
houses of Te Pahi township; and the masts of several
small sailing-craft are seen off the beach. Behind
and above is a bold sweep of dark woods, forming a
background to the baby town.
The township bluff hides from us all
view of the Paparoa, which lies just behind it.
But we have a full prospect of the wide reach of the
Matakohe, which has quite a lake-like look. Just
within it, on the further shore, are some low mud-banks,
partially covered with stunted mangrove. Here
great flocks of grey snipe continually assemble, together
with kingfishers, shags, wild duck, teal, and other
waterfowl. The high bank conceals all behind
it; but in one or two places we catch a glimpse of
some settler’s house, cresting the bold bluff,
or half hiding in its orchards.
And now we face to the east, with
the setting sun behind us sending its rays full upon
the central interest of the view, and thus we gaze
our fill upon Te Puke Tapu. A small but deep
bay forms a bend in the shore of the river, guarded
by steep heights on either hand. On the left a
long promontory runs out into the Pahi, as though to
meet the township bluff upon its further shore.
On the right a towering scaur shows the abrupt termination
of the range behind it. The tide in the Arapaoa
flows swiftly by, but within the bay the water lies
smooth as glass.
Between these two points may be a
distance of about a mile straight across. The
curving line of the shore, sweeping round from one
to the other, forms a complete crescent. No rocks
or mangroves, no mud-banks or oyster-beds spoil
the effect of a narrow belt of white and glittering
shingle, which lines the beach of the little bay.
And right at the edge of this border-line begins the
mingled green of fern and forest.
The land slopes upward gradually from
the beach, rising by regular steps into a grand semicircle
of heights. The general shape is that of an amphitheatre.
And here so rich is the soil, so sheltered the situation,
that all the wild vegetation of the country seems growing
with magnified luxuriance.
The colouring is brighter and more
brilliant than it often is in the bush; and there
is a more extensive mingling of different trees and
shrubs, a more picturesque grouping of forms and tints.
There are emerald feathery fern-trees, copper-tinted
“lancewoods,” with their hair-like tufts,
the tropic strangeness of nikau palms, crested cabbage-trees,
red birch and white ti-tree, stately kauri, splendid
totara, bulky rimu, dark glossy koraka, spreading rata,
and half the arboreal catalogue of the country besides.
And, in their several seasons, the
blossoms which all the evergreen trees and shrubs
put forth bloom more brightly here than elsewhere;
and, while creepers of strange and beautiful forms
twine and suspend and stretch from tree to tree, the
woodland greenery is set with a rich variety of scarlet
cups and crimson tassels, of golden bells or flesh-pink
clusters, or the darker depths are lit up by showering
masses of star-like clematis.
Terrace above terrace, receding from
the water’s edge, the encircling lines of bush
rise upwards and away, until at last the leafy mantle
flows over the summit of the topmost range. Far
back, and central, in the wide sweep of the amphitheatre
is a sudden dip in the outline. It is the opening
of a little gully, through which a hidden stream comes
down below the trees and babbles out across the shingle;
and that opening just reveals Mount Marahemo behind.
His wooded crest has caught the tinted radiance of
the sunset, and stands out in glorious relief against
the purpling background of sky, framed in the glowing
beauty of the nearer Puke Tapu.
Such is our show-place, the “Sacred
Soil,” where sleep the departed warriors of
the Ngatewhatua. The bell-bird and the tui sing
a requiem over them by day, while the morepork and
the kiwi wail for them at night. And the wonderful
loveliness of this spot, where they fought and died,
might well inspire a Tennyson to pen another “Locksley
Hall.”
“Jee roosalem!”
sighed Dandy Jack. “Only put that
on canvas, and hang it in Burlington House, and what
an advertisement it would be for us!”
Old Colonial goes on to tell the tale
of Te Puke Tapu, in the intervals of hauling up schnapper.
He says
“The boys call it ‘The
Burying Ground,’ because of the bones and skulls
that are lying about or stuck up in the trees.
That’s rather misleading, though, for it was
never a wahi tapu, or native cemetery. This bay
was evidently the landing-place or port for Marahemo,
and the subordinate kaingas on the ranges yonder.
You can see it was naturally that. As such there
would be constant traffic through it, even if there
were no whares in the place itself. Now a wahi
tapu was so sacred that no one but a tohunga dared
to approach its boundaries, even under pain of death
and damnation; so that such a place was always in
some very out-of-the-way locality, certainly never
near a spot so much frequented as this would be.
“It’s tapu enough now,
though, and has been ever since the battle, which,
I opine, must have been fought somewhere about 1825.
The chiefs won’t sell an inch of this piece
to any one; and not a Maori dares go near it.
Lots of people have tried to buy it, and have even
offered as much as five pounds an acre for its magnificent
soil; but the Maoris are not to be tempted, and, what’s
more, say they’ll have utu from any Pakeha that
goes into it.
“Once, some years ago, I was
out pig-hunting, and killed a big one just on the
top of that scaur. The carcase rolled down into
the water, and the tide carried it away down river.
It was washed up at Tama-te-Whiti’s place,
six miles below this. Now Tama, although he’s
an ordained parson, still retains most of the old
superstitions, as all the older Maoris do. He
was in a terrible stew when this pig, killed on tapu
ground, and consequently tapu itself, stranded on
his beach. His wife and he came out with long
poles and pushed it into the water. Then they
got into their boat, and managed to get the pig out
into the channel and set it floating off again.
Afterwards they carefully burnt the poles that had
touched the dreadful thing. Finally, Tama came
up to me and demanded utu, which I had to pay him.
If we had not been such good friends, and if Tama
had not been more sensible than the other Maoris, I
believe the district would have been too hot to hold
me.
“Tama told me the whole history
of the place; and gave me a graphic account of the
battle, in which he took part. He is one of the
’last of the cannibals,’ one of the few
survivors of the old fighting days, before the missionaries
caused the abolition of cannibalism.
“You know who Hongi was, I suppose?
The great chief of the Ngapuhi, who was so friendly
with Marsden and the first missionaries, who went to
Sydney and then to England, was presented to King George
and made much of. When he got back to Sydney,
this astute savage ‘realized’ on all the
fine things that had been given him, and turned the
proceeds into muskets, powder, and ball. Then
he loaded up a trading-schooner, chartering her with
a promise of a return cargo of pigs, timber, and flax,
and joyfully sailed back to New Zealand.
“All his life, Hongi was very
friendly to the missionaries, as well as to traders
from Sydney. But the former never converted him.
He remained a ferocious manslayer and cannibal to
the last. Yet it was owing to this chief that
missionaries gained a first footing in the country.
“Hongi’s great idea was
to make himself king of all New Zealand. In pursuance
of this plan he armed his fighting men with fire-arms,
and when they were drilled in the use of them, he
started on a grand maraud all through the island.
His notion of kingly power seems to have been to kill
and eat, or enslave, every other tribe but his own.
He certainly slew his thousands; and utterly depopulated
the country wherever he went.
“The Ngatewhatua, whose country
lay all round these waters, were the ancient foemen
of the Ngapuhi; consequently, they were among the first
to experience Hongi’s new mode of civilizing.
A great battle was fought up on the Wairoa, where
two or three thousand of our fellows were discomfited
by Hongi’s army. The fugitives came down
the rivers and rallied again. Every man of the
Ngatewhatua who was able to bear arms, took up his
mere and patu and spear, and went forth to fight for
his fatherland. They fought the invading Ngapuhi
all the way down from the Wairoa, as they marched
through the forests between this and Mangapai.
“But badly-armed bravery had
little chance against the superior equipment of Hongi’s
bands. Do all they might, the Ngatewhatua could
not stay the progress of their foes. When, at
last, the invaders drove them as near as the Maungaturoto
bush, our tribe gave way in despair, and came back
to this place. They had still one hope, one refuge,
the hitherto unconquered Marahemo Pa.
“Into that pa, then, where we
stood this morning, crowded the whole population of
the district men, women, and children.
Here they would make their last despairing stand.
The attack would come from the north-east, consequently
this bay would be in rear; and in it the canoes were
drawn up for flight, if that were necessary.
“Then Hongi and his ruthless
army swept out of the woods, and rushed upon Marahemo.
They surrounded the hill, and, advancing to the fortifications,
poured in a hot fire. Frightful were the losses
among the besieged; and little could they do in return,
spears and stones being their only missiles.
Still, they held out for three days, their crowded
ranks gradually thinning and thinning.
“At last, at daybreak on the
third day, Hongi delivered a grand assault. The
Ngapuhi came up in three columns on the eastern slope
of the hill, where the principal gate of the pa was.
The two outer flanks concentrated all their fire on
the point, while the centre, headed by Hongi himself,
wearing a helmet and breastplate that King George had
given him, constituted the storming party.
“The struggle at the gate must
have been terrific. At close quarters fire-arms
were no longer of service, and the Ngatewhatua would
be equal to their assailants. Both sides fought
with all the fierce courage of their race. Tama
says that the bodies of the slain lay in piles, and
that their blood flowed in streams down the hill.
“Tuwhare was the name of the
ariki or supreme chief of the Ngatewhatua; he was
also a tohunga, or priest. A lion-like old man
he seems to have been, from Tama’s description.
Seeing that all was lost, when the conquering Ngapuhi
had forced their way into the pa, and were mercilessly
slaughtering men, women, and children, he did the only
thing left to be done. He took from its perch
the palladium of the tribe, an heitiki ponamu, or
greenstone image, and, summoning around him the remnant
of his men, together with some of the women, they fled
from the western side of the pa, hotly pursued by
the victors.
“The fugitives came down through
that little gully, here to the bay, intending to take
to their boats, and escape down the river. Tama
was among them, and he afterwards concealed himself
in a tree, and, thus hidden, was a witness of the
final scene; for a band of Hongi’s men had come
along the beach, and had captured the canoes beforehand,
so that retreat was cut off.
“But a short time was there
to consider what should now be done. The pursuing
Ngapuhi were close at their heels. The sacred
tiki was placed in the branches of a tree for safety.
And as the yelling and elated victors came bounding
down the gully, brave old Tuwhare and his remaining
warriors, with mere in hand and war-cry ringing through
the woods, hurled themselves against the foe.
Overpowered by numbers, and by superiority of weapons,
the grim fight was soon over, and the last of the
Ngatewhatua were slain. But, beside their bodies,
many a Ngapuhi corpse showed that the vanquished had
died as warriors should.
“The Ngapuhi who had slain Tuwhare,
cut off the dead chiefs head, and placing it in the
nearest tree, rushed back towards Marahemo to summon
Hongi. Now Hongi was brave as man could be, but,
like all Maoris then, he was intensely superstitious,
and held all the Maori gods and devils in the very
highest respect.
“Hongi and his principal warriors
were led across the field of battle by the lucky slayer
of the Ngatewhatua chief, in order that they might
insult and taunt Tuwhare’s head, as was their
custom. When they were all assembled round the
tree, with the bodies of the dead lying about where
they had fallen ’There! that’s
the place, to the left yonder, where the koraka trees
are thickest!’ the branches were drawn
aside to expose the grim trophy of the conquered chief.
There it was, sure enough, just where the victor had
put it, fresh and gory, with its white locks and richly
tattooed features. But, oh, horror of horrors!
right above the head, with all its hideous fluttering
adornments of feathers and tassels, was the horrible,
grotesque, and grinning idol!
“Chance had led the slayer of
Tuwhare to put his head into the self-same tree where
the dead ariki had, a short time previously, disposed
the tiki. There it now appeared, stuck in a fork,
just where he had put it for safety. None of
the Ngapuhi knew how it had got there, and to their
superstitious minds it seemed to have come by supernatural
means. And this thing was tapu in the most deadly
degree.
“The mighty and terrible Hongi
trembled and shrieked when he saw the unlooked-for
wonder. He and his men turned and ran out of the
amphitheatre of the bay as fast as they could, shouting,
’Te tapu! te tapu! The gods have taken
to themselves the bodies of the slain!’
“So they left this part of the
battle-field, not daring to carry off the bodies as
usual for a cannibal orgy. A long time afterwards,
Tama, and certain priests of the almost exterminated
Ngatewhatua tribe, ventured to return here. With
much solemn karakia and propitiatory sacrifice, they
tremblingly crept into the precincts of the bay.
They placed the remains of their kindred in the forks
of the trees, and hid the sacred tiki for ever from
mortal eyes. Then they departed, and the aegis
of a holy place invests for posterity Te Puke Tapu.
“It is a charnel-house if you
like, under those trees there, but a very beautiful
one as is evident. We ought to keep alive the
memories that make the place romantic. It would
be a pity if utilitarian axe and fire were to spoil
the beauty of Te Puke Tapu. There is plenty of
other good land to be had. No need for us to
covet this, fertile as it is; no need to make a commonplace
farm out of that picturesque old battle-ground.
May it long remain just as it is now a lovely
natural monument to ancient Maori valour, a quiet
undisturbed resting-place for the warrior dead, the
patriot chivalry of the Ngatewhatua!”
Such is our show-place and its tale.