June, to me, is one of the most fascinating
months in California if any of them can
be set apart and called more perfect than another for
June is a month of moods.
If you are an Easterner you would
abandon your proposed picnic party, upon rising in
the morning, for fear of rain, and, being a tenderfoot,
you would be justified, for the clouds or,
more properly speaking, the high fog give
every indication of a shower. But an old Californian
would tell you to take no thought of appearances, and
to leave your umbrella and raincoat at home, for this
is one of nature’s “bluffs”; by
ten o’clock the sun will be shining brightly,
and the fog dispersed under its warm rays.
Then pack your lunch basket, don your
khaki suit, and strike out on the trail, while the
dew still twinkles on the grass blades like cut diamonds,
and the birds are singing their Te Deum to the
morning sun.
It was on just such a day that we
set out on a trip to Muir Woods and the giant séquoias,
one of the most beautiful spots in the State.
From Mill Valley the climb is a steep one, passing
the picturesque ruins of an old mill erected in 1843.
We come to a sort of corduroy path, where some enterprising
landowner has placed logs across the trail, with the
object of facilitating travel. It is not a very
decided improvement on nature, however, for the steps
are too far apart for comfort.
Summer cottages are scattered along
the trail, perched on the hillside, and placed in
the most advantageous position to gain a view of the
bay, or on slightly higher ground, where they peek
over the tops of the trees into the valley below.
After a stiff climb we reach the top
of the last range of hills and begin our descent into
the valley, where Muir Woods nestles between the hills
at the foot of Mount Tamalpais, in the beautiful Sequoia
Canon. We look away to the right and can see the
heavy clouds envelop the summit of the mountain, but
the highest stands above the clouds, and the sun touches
its stately crest with golden splendor.
The forest always has a weird fascination
for me, with its soft whisperings, as if the trees
were confiding secrets to each other. One can
become intimately acquainted with it, and learn to
love its quiet solitude, only by living in or near
it, and wandering at will through its trackless, leaf-carpeted
aisles. Your eyes must be trained to constant
watching, you must learn to be a close observer, to
note the flowers, vines, and tangled shrubbery that
are seldom mentioned by botanists, and your ear must
be tuned to catch the elfin music that is heard within
the confines of the forest. You cannot travel
a rod under the trees without being watched by the
small forest inhabitants, who regard you with suspicion,
and peer at you from under decaying logs or leafy
covert like self-appointed detectives.
Muir Woods comprises nearly three
hundred acres, the principal trees being laurel, fir,
oak, redwood, and madrone, of which the giant redwood
(Sequoia) predominates. The redwoods in Muir Woods
are thousands of years old, and rise from two to three
hundred feet in air. The bark is from one to
two feet in thickness, of a cinnamon color, and the
base of the largest trees from twenty-five to thirty
feet in diameter. A clear and cold mountain brook
runs through the forest, and ferns grow in rich profusion
along its margin, some of them reaching a height of
six feet.
One cannot but note the profound quiet
of the forest, as if these mighty trees that had withstood
the storms of centuries were afraid their secrets
might be wrested from them.
In some past ages fire has swept through
the forest, laying some of these giants low, but other
trees have sprung from their charred stumps, and rear
their straight trunks and green-crowned heads hundreds
of feet above the surrounding foliage. These stately
trees have grown and flourished like Solomon’s
Temple with no sound of woodman’s axe to mar
the quiet solemnity of this primeval forest. One
stands in awe in the presence of these wonderful séquoias,
the greatest of trees, and we converse in low tones,
as if standing in the presence of spirits of bygone
ages.
Muir Woods was accepted by the United
States government as a national monument in 1908,
by special proclamation of President Theodore Roosevelt,
and was named in honor of John Muir, the celebrated
California naturalist.
There is no place in California where
one can more profitably spend a day in the enjoyment
of the wonderful beauties of nature than in this grove
of giant redwoods.