There are mountains and mountains,
each one with an individuality all its own. There
are mountains whose lofty peaks are covered with perpetual
snow, like a bridal robe adorned with jewels, with
the rising sun kissing each separate fold into glowing
splendor; mountains whose rugged summits rise far
above the timber line, somber and imposing, with fleecy
clouds floating round the rocky pinnacles like fine
spun silver.
Mount Tamalpais is not so lofty as
Pike’s Peak, or Mount Hood, but what it loses
in altitude it makes up in splendor, and a trip to
its summit, over the crookedest railroad in the world,
offers a view that is unsurpassed.
Leaving the ferry building, we have
a delightful ride on the bay, passing close to Alcatraz
Island, where the military prison is located, with
a view of Fort Point and Fort Baker, passing near the
United States Quarantine Station on Angel Island, and
arrive at Sausalito, perched on the hillside like
some hamlet on the Rhine; then by rail to Mill Valley,
a beautiful little town nestling at the foot of the
mountain like a Swiss village. Here we change
to the observation train drawn by a mountain-climbing
traction engine, and begin the climb. The ascent
is a gradual one, the steepest grade being a trifle
over seven per cent, while the train twists and turns
around two hundred and sixty curves from the base
to the summit. We enter a forest of the giant
redwoods, which, enormous in girth, and three hundred
feet high, have defied the elements for thousands of
years. Crossing a canon filled with madrones,
oaks, and laurels, we look down upon a panorama of
exceeding beauty. At a certain point the train
seems about to jump off into space, but it makes a
sharp curve around a jutting cliff on the edge of
the canon, and a broader view bursts upon us, a view
unparalleled for its magnificence.
About half way up we reach the double
bowknot, where the road parallels itself five times
in a short distance, and where one can change cars
and go down the other side of the mountain to Muir
Woods. We stay by the train, and toil upward,
over Slide Gulch, through McKinley Cut, and at last,
with aching but beauty-filled eyes, we reach the summit.
From the top of most mountains surrounding peaks shut
off the view to some extent, but from the summit of
Mount Tamalpais there is an unbroken view. Rising
as it does almost from the shores of the bay, there
are miles and miles of uninterrupted view. Far
below us the ocean and the bay shimmer like a mirror,
and majestic ocean liners, outward bound, look like
toy boats. To the left Mount Hamilton rises out
of the purple haze, while to the right Mount Diablo
pushes its great bulk above the clouds.
It is claimed that twenty or more
cities and towns can be seen from the top of Mount
Tamalpais. Whether this be true or not, I cannot
say, but it is certain that we saw a good many, near
and far, and it is also true that on a clear day the
Sierras, one hundred and fifty miles distant, can
be plainly seen.
From the hotel near the summit one
gets an unsurpassed view of San Francisco Bay, the
Cliff House, and the Farallone Islands; and if you
are fortunate enough to see the sun sink behind the
ocean, between the portals of the Golden Gate, you
will never forget the sight. All the colors of
the artist’s palette are thrown across the sky,
changing from red to orange, from orange to purple;
each white-capped wave is touched with a rosy phosphorescence,
and scintillates like a thousand jewels.
To ascend Mount Tamalpais on foot,
following the railroad, is not a difficult task, and
is well worth the effort, for then you can take time
to enjoy the varied views that burst upon your vision
at each turn of the road, and linger as long as you
like over each choice bit of scenery. As you
descend you feel that the day upon the mountain has
been a day of vision and of beauty.