The modern Residence was built in
1752 upon the site of Broadlane Hall, the seat of
the Ravenscrofts, an old house of wood and plaster,
which came into Sir John Glynne’s possession
by his marriage with Honora Conway, daughter of Henry
Conway and Honora Ravenscroft. Originally a
square brick house, it was afterwards in 1809 extended
by the addition of the Library on the West side and
of the Kitchen and other offices on the East; the
whole being cased in stone and castellated.
The entrance was now turned from the S. to the N.
front the turnpike road, which passed in
front of the house and along the Moat to the Village,
having been diverted in 1804 and the present
Flower-garden constructed with the old Thorn-tree
in the centre. Quite recently has been added
the block at the N.W. angle of the house, containing
Mr. Gladstone’s Study, or, as he calls it, the
‘Temple of Peace.’
The most striking feature about this
room is that (to use the phrase of a writer in Harper’s
Magazine) it is built about with bookcases. Instead
of being ranged along the wall in the usual way, they
stand out into the room at right angles, each wide
enough to hold a double row facing either way.
Intervals are left sufficient to give access to the
books, and Mr. Gladstone prides himself upon the economy
of space obtained by this arrangement. His Library
numbers near 20,000 volumes, many of which have overflowed
into adjoining rooms, where they are similarly stored.
Of this number Theology claims a large proportion;
Homer, Dante, and Shakespeare also have their
respective departments, and any resident visitor is
at liberty, on entering his or her name in a book kept
for the purpose, to borrow any volume at pleasure.
Three writing-tables are seen. At one Mr. Gladstone
sits when busy in political work and correspondence;
the second is reserved for literary and especially,
Homeric studies; the third is Mrs. Gladstone’s.
“It is,” remarked Mr. Gladstone to the
writer above mentioned, with a wistful glance at the
table where ‘Vaticanism’ and ‘Juventus
Mundi’ were written, “A long time
since I sat there.” About the room are
to be seen busts and photographs of old friends and
colleagues Sidney Herbert, the Duke of Newcastle,
Canning, Tennyson, Lord Richard Cavendish, and others,
while in the corners lurk numerous walking sticks
and axes.
Adjoining Mr. Gladstone’s room
is the Library of the house a well-proportioned
and comfortable room, well stored with books, prominent
among which topography and ecclesiology testify to
the predelictions of the late owner, Sir Stephen Glynne.
There are some good family portraits and other
pictures, among which are specimens of Sir Peter Lely,
Snyders, and a very fine likeness of Sir Kenelm Digby
by Vandyke. There is a fine picture by Millais
of Mr. Gladstone and his grandson, painted in
1889, and another good portrait of him by the late
F. Holl; also a much-admired likeness of Mrs. Gladstone
by Herkomer.
Shading the windows of Mr. Gladstone’s
Study is a singular circle of limes of some 20 feet
in diameter, which goes by the name of Sir John Glynne’s
Dressing-Room. Mounting the slope towards the
old castle is the Broad Walk, terminating in an artificial
amphitheatre at the top, made by Sir John Glynne to
give employment in a time of distress. The grounds
abound in fine trees, and in rhododendrons which
in spring form masses of bloom.
In 1819, Prince Leopold, the late
King of the Belgians, visited the Castle; and the
small wooden door on the south side of the Ruins is
still called after him. The Visitors’
Book at the Lodge also records, in autograph, the
names of Her Gracious Majesty, as Princess Victoria,
and her mother, the Duchess of Kent, in or about the
year 1833.
In the palmy days of the Royal British
Bowmen the Castle was the frequent scene of bow-meetings;
the peculiar green costumes and feathers worn by both
the ladies and gentlemen competitors contributing to
the picturesque effect of these gatherings.
Simultaneously with one of these Archery Meetings,
in the year, we believe, 1835, was held a Fancy Bazaar,
commemorated in some admirable lines by Mr. R. E. Warburton
of Arley Hall, which will be read with pleasure in
connection with more recent bazaars held in the same
place.
While tents are pitched in Hawarden’s
peaceful vale,
And harmless shafts the platted
targe assail;
While now the bow (the archers more
intent
On making love than making war)
is bent;
Beneath those towers, where erst
their fathers drew
In deadly conflict bows of tougher
yew;
Lo! Charity, a native of the
skies,
Whose smile betrays her through
a vain disguise,
Mounts the steep hill, and ‘neath
th’ o’erhanging wall,
The canvass stretch’d in triumph,
plants her stall;
In gay profusion o’er the
counter pours
Her glittering wares and ranges
all her stores.
Beneath the magic of her touch behold
Transformed at once the warlike
aims of old!
The mighty falchion to a penknife
shrinks,
The mailed meshes from the purse’s
links;
The sturdy lance a bodkin now appears,
A bunch of tooth-picks once a hundred
spears;
A painted toy behold the keen-edged
axe!
See men of iron turned to dolls
of wax!
The once broad shield contracted
now in span
Raised as a screen or fluttered
as a fan;
The gleaming helm a hollow thimble
proves,
And weighty gauntlets dwindle into
gloves.
The plumes that winged the arrow
through the sky,
Waft to and fro the shuttlecock
on high;
Two trusty swords are into scissors
cross’d,
And dinted breastplates are in corsets
lost;
While dungeon chains to gentler
use consigned,
Now silken laces, tighten stays
behind.
Approach! nor weapons more destructive
fear,
Where’er ye turn, than pins
and needles here.
While hobbling Age along the pathway
crawls,
By aid of crutch to scale the Castle’s
walls:
With eager steps advance, ye generous
youths,
Draw purses all, and strip the loaded
booths.
Bear each away some trophy from
the steep,
Take each a keepsake ere ye quit
the keep!
Come, every stranger, every guest
draw nigh!
No peril waits you save from beauty’s
eye.
Hard by the Castle and across the
yard will be found Mrs. Gladstone’s Orphanage,
containing from 20 to 30 boys. Close by is a
little Home of Rest established by Mrs. Gladstone,
for old and infirm women. The house in which
the orphans are lodged is called Diglane, and was formerly
the residence of the Crachley family. It was
sold to Sir John Glynne in 1749.
The Park is about 250 acres in extent,
to which have to be added the Bilberry Wood and Warren
Plantations. It is divided into two parts by
a ravine passing immediately under the old Castle
and traversing its entire length. The further
side is called the Deer Park, inclosed and stocked
by Sir John Glynne in 1739. Its banks and glades,
richly timbered, and overgrown with bracken, afford
from various points beautiful views over the plain
of Chester, with the bold projections of the Frodsham
and Peckforton hills. Along the bottom of the
hollow flows Broughton brook. Two Waterfalls
occur in its course through the Park: the lower
is called the Ladies’ Fall: near the upper
one stood a Mill, now removed, the erection of which
is commemorated by a large stone, bearing the following
inscription:
“Trust in God for Bread, and to
the King for Justice, Protection and Peace.
This Mill was built A.D. 1767 By Sir John Glynne,
Bart., Lord of this Manor: Charles Howard
Millwright. Wheat was at this year 9s. and
Barley at 5d. a Bushel. Luxury was at
a great height, and Charity extensive, but the pool
were starving, riotous, and hanged.”
Between this spot and the “Old
Lane,” a sandy gully, lined with old beeches,
and once the road to Wrexham now tenanted
by rabbits are two large oaks, 17 and 18
feet in circumference respectively. Another tree,
a beautiful specimen of the fagus pendula, or
feathering beech, a great favourite with Mr. Gladstone,
deserves attention. It stands a few yards from
the iron railing near the moat of the old Castle, and
measures 17f in. round. The sycamores at
Hawarden are particularly fine. Nor should the
visitor omit seeing the noble grove of beeches at the
Ladies’ Fall.
The road which descends the steep
hill under the Old Castle and crosses the brook, leads
up through the Park to the Bilberry Wood. Twenty
minutes’ walk through the wood brings one to
the “Top Lodge” (1.75 miles from the Castle).
From this point either the walk may be continued
through the further plantations to the pretty Church
of St. John’s at Penymynydd, or, if necessary
Broughton Hall Station, 2.5 miles distant, may be
gained direct. The inclosures and the plantations
on this portion of the estate, called the Warren,
were made in 1798, and command some very fine views.
The high road through Pentrobin and Tinkersdale offers
a pleasant return route to Hawarden.
Everyone has heard of Mr. Gladstone’s
prowess as a woodcutter, and to some it may even have
been matter of surprise to see no scantiness of trees
in the Park at Hawarden. It is true that he attacks
trees with the same vigour as he attacks abuses in
the body politic, but he attacks them on the
same principle they are blemishes and not
ornaments. No one more scrupulously respects
a sound and shapely tree than Mr. Gladstone; and if
he is prone to condemn those that show signs of decay,
he is always ready to listen to any plea that may be
advanced on their behalf by other members of the family.
In this, as in other matters, doubtful points will
of course arise; but there can be no question that
a policy of inert conservatism is an entire mistake.
Besides the natural growth and decay of trees, a
hundred other causes are ever at work to affect their
structure and appearance; and the facts of the landscape,
thus continually altering, afford sufficient occupation
for the eye and hand of the woodman. It was
late in life that Mr. Gladstone took to woodcutting.
Tried first as an experiment, it answered so admirably
the object of getting the most complete exercise in
a short time that, though somewhat slackened of late,
it has never been abandoned. His procedure is
characteristic. No exercise is taken in the morning,
save the daily walk to morning service but between
3 and 4 in the afternoon he sallies forth, axe on
shoulder, accompanied by one or more of his sons.
The scene of action reached, there is no pottering;
the work begins at once, and is carried on with unflagging
energy. Blow follows blow, delivered with that
skill which his favourite author reminds us is
of more value to the woodman than strength, together
with a force and energy that soon tells its tale on
the tree
Virgil OEn II. 626
“It still keeps nodding to
its doom,
Still bows its head and shakes its
plume,
Till, by degrees o’ercome,
one groan
It heaves, and on the hill lies
prone.”
Conington’s Translation.
At the advanced age he has now attained,
it can hardly be expected that Mr. Gladstone can very
frequently indulge in what has been his favourite
recreation for the past twenty-five years. The
present winter however saw the fall of at least
one large tree, in which he took a full share a
Spanish chestnut, measuring 10ft. at the top of the
face, and those who were present can testify to the
undiminished vigour with which the axe was wielded
on that occasion.