The railway had almost crept up to
Alexandra Then the seventy-three miles
of its sandy pilgrimage were all but complete.
In three months or so it would be open to those who
could afford their penny a mile no, but I am forgetting,
on the privileged group to which it belongs no European
may travel third-class.
I did not welcome that railway with
any warmth. The district that it tapped had seemed
to me a camping-ground of refuge, as civilization
pressed on. That district was a haven for the
Kaffir-trader, a haven for the transport-rider, a haven
too for the foot-slogging missionary, like myself.
We have our faults, all three doubtless, and deserve
the spurning of civilization’s iron feet, when
our time comes, doubtless. On the other hand our
displacement is a matter for some sympathy, it is likely
to hurt like other displacements. Also we are
prone to note that the admirable iron feet of our
displacer are not unmixed with baser clay.
I came to Shumba Siding last Eastertide,
on my way to Alexandra. Charles Miller was there
in charge of the line, and he offered me a thirty-one
mile ride in to within two miles of town if I would
only wait for a construction train. I declined
in my stupid sentimentality. For one thing I
hate breaking up a plan of combined foot-travel; it
seems to me hard on one’s native fellow-travelers,
on whom one is apt to call for big efforts. To
ride on ahead, and leave them struggling alone with
the sandy monster of a road for any long distance,
seems vile desertion, and I was by no means sure that
the invitation to board the train included them.
Moreover, this might be my last journey in, on the
old road, under the old order.
So I declined, but I lunched with
Charles Miller Before I went on. Marvell was
there, the Kaffir store-keeper from ten miles away.
He had much to tell me of his wonderful good luck.
The big firm that were putting up the new Store at
Alexandra, that rail-head terminus designate, had
asked him to manage it.
He could marry now on his prospects.
He had wanted to see me, and had waylaid me on my
road. The bride was due by coach to-morrow.
He hoped to get a Special License when once she had
arrived. Would I marry them on Monday?
We had a good lunch with healths afterwards,
but they let me drink them in tea. Miller proposed
the health of the bridegroom, to whom the railway,
or ever it came, had brought luck. Might his
luck last while the rails lasted, and grow heavier
when they should be replaced by heavier metals!
Might he never make less in a year than that railway
had cost per mile! ’Three thousand five
hundred will take some making,’ Marvell sighed
to me. He acknowledged the toast and proposed
the Railway’s prosperity. He grew rather
florid to my thinking, about the benefit to the District
how Kaffir gardens were to be displaced by up-to-date
farming, how tourists were to pour in athirst to explore
its ruins. He discoursed of the blessedness of
ranching, and of chrome and asbestos syndicates.
He said that we were in at the death alike of malaria,
of blackwater, and horse-sickness. Then I spoke
up for the other side. I asked them to remember
the old Era in silence, and if they must drink, to
drink to the transport-road and the transport-riders,
and to all pioneers, and old hands going and gone,
to the big native district and its dependencies, so
rich in cattle and so rich in grain, to God’s
Eden of a country, and the people that He Himself
had chosen to set there to dress it, and to keep it
before our coming. My toast fell rather flat,
I noticed. They both looked rather bored.
Soon I pressed on, with fifteen miles
or so to cover before our camping-place would be reached.
I had gone some ten miles before the
construction train passed me, and my carriers pressed
through bushes and long grass for a nearer view of
it.
With three or four white men on the
engine, a Black Watch or two and a few other natives
on the trucks, it snorted along through the woodland.
As the night deepened and the moon rose, we came close
to the last coach-stable, and were soon encamped.
The old Basuto near by gave me a drink
of fairish water, but water was far away, I was told.
My boys straggled away wearily, and came back at last,
having seemingly missed the dipping-place. They
had brought something between a liquid and a solid.
Boiled, it was no doubt wholesome enough, but its
taste was not such as to tempt to excess.
That night I dreamed, with a tag of
Marvell’s speech buzzing in my head (I had garrisoned
it with quinine before I slept). That tag rang
out in boastful refrain like the natives’ curfew-bell
of Alexandra, a bell not always very punctually rung.
’We are in at the death of malaria, of black-water,
and of horse-sickness.’
So clanged the bell, the bell in the
market tower, the tower of the dismantled pioneer
fort. And it seemed to me that I saw Malaria
a lean yellow ague-shaken shape with a Cape-boy sort
of face, steal away out of the town past the new Railway
Station, and across the river. He went, like
a frightened Kaffir dog with a jackal-like yelp, far
away into the Veld. I am not sure whether he
did not become canine on the way, at least cynocephalous.
I followed him. I went far in that following,
over country that I remember as very difficult, there
were so many stumps of trees about. Moreover,
it had abundance of black-jacks to stud one’s
socks with. ‘He is going through dry places
seeking rest,’ I thought. ‘Soon he
will return.’ And sure enough we were to
return by-and by. And a jackal pack of seven,
that I was somehow expecting to come, came with us.
We saw the lights of Alexandra soon, but the people
had gone to bed, it seemed. There was no one
about anywhere. Then the leading jackal fed foul
and lapped long at a great black drain. Afterwards
he howled under a window of the Hospital, and leaped
through it, straddling his legs. Then I awoke.
I married Marvell on the following
Monday, and partook of his wedding-lunch. He
made a far more florescent speech than that earlier
one, it compared with it as the nuptial champagne with
Miller’s bottled beer.
‘The old Pioneer is now dead,’
he told us, ’as dead as the Dodo or the Great
Auk. No longer need we take Quinine to be “our
grim chamberlain to usher us and draw” . . .’
(here his memory of Hood failed him). ’No
more need we shiver in our Kaffir blankets at Kaffir
Stores ’fifty miles from the dead-ends of rail-less
post-towns. “Le roi est mort.”
Malaria is dead or dying so far as Alexandra is concerned.
We Alexandrians are now becoming wholesome Englishmen
in a wholesome White Man’s country. Long
live the railway, and may it perforate the Alexandra
District!’ ‘Amen,’ said the best-man
fervently. But I said nothing.
I admired Marvell. It was just
like him to press a guinea on me for my Mission, though
I told him there was no fee of any kind, and that
I was ever so glad to be there. The remembrance
of my dream stung me. I said something for conscience
sake. ’Civilization has its perils,’
I said dully, ’immature civilization. The
period between no-drains and the up-to-date drainage
system wants some living through.’ ‘That’s
all right,’ Marvell declared. ’I’ll
watch it. I didn’t go through Bloemfontein
in the War for nothing.’
’Le roi est mort:
vive lé roi! ’Alack!
If Malaria slackened hold, enteric tightened its clutch.
People were found to say that the latter state of
Alexandra was worse than the former. Marvell and
Rose Marvell both got enteric. But, thank God,
the uneasy misgivings engendered by that eight-devil
dream of mine about Alexandra were not justified!
They both won through. They are going back to
England for a change next month (the hay-making month
at home), they tell me.
’God made the country, and man
made the town, and the devil made the little railway-swollen,
transitional, Alexandra-sort-of-town.’
So Marvell wrote to me by last mail. He is not
so keen now on the transition stage of civilization
for his wife’s residence. He is thinking
of a pioneer place in Northern Rhodesia, either that
or London. If the perils of the old regime in
Alexandra are diminished, the perils of the new regime
appear to have a knack of growing.