‘I SAY, Davies,’ I said,
’how long do you think this trip will last?
I’ve only got a month’s leave.’
We were standing at slanting desks
in the Kiel post-office, Davies scratching diligently
at his letter-card, and I staring feebly at mine.
‘By Jove!’ said Davies,
with a start of dismay; ’that’s only three
weeks more; I never thought of that. You couldn’t
manage to get an extension, could you?’
‘I can write to the chief,’
I admitted; ’but where’s the answer to
come to? We’re better without an address,
I suppose.’
‘There’s Cuxhaven,’
reflected Davies; ’but that’s too near,
and there’s but we don’t want
to be tied down to landing anywhere. I tell you
what: say “Post Office, Norderney”,
just your name, not the yacht’s. We may
get there and be able to call for letters.’
The casual character of our adventure never struck
me more strongly than then.
‘Is that what you’re doing?’
I asked.
‘Oh, I shan’t be having important letters
like you.’
‘But what are you saying?’
’Oh, just that we’re having
a splendid cruise, and are on our way home.’
The notion tickled me, and I said
the same in my home letter, adding that we were looking
for a friend of Davies’s who would be able to
show us some sport. I wrote a line, too, to my
chief (unaware of the gravity of the step I was taking)
saying it was possible that I might have to apply
for longer leave, as I had important business to transact
in Germany, and asking him kindly to write to the same
address. Then we shouldered our parcels and resumed
our business.
Two full dinghy-loads of Stores we
ferried to the ‘Dulcibella’, chief among
which were two immense cans of petroleum, constituting
our reserves of heat and light, and a sack of flour.
There were spare ropes and blocks, too; German charts
of excellent quality; cigars and many weird brands
of sausage and tinned meats, besides a miscellany
of oddments, some of which only served in the end to
slake my companion’s craving for jettison.
Clothes were my own chief care, for, freely as I had
purged it at Flensburg, my wardrobe was still very
unsuitable, and I had already irretrievably damaged
two faultless pairs of white flannels. (’We
shall be able to throw them overboard,’ said
Davies, hopefully.) So I bought a great pair of seaboots
of the country, felt-lined and wooden-soled, and both
of us got a number of rough woollen garments (as worn
by the local fishermen), breeches, jerseys, helmets,
gloves; all of a colour chosen to harmonize with paraffin
stains and anchor mud.
The same evening we were taking our
last look at the Baltic, sailing past warships and
groups of idle yachts battened down for their winter’s
sleep; while the noble shores of the fiord, with its
villas embowered in copper foliage, grew dark and
dim above us.
We rounded the last headland, steered
for a galaxy of coloured lights, tumbled down our
sails, and came to under the colossal gates of the
Holtenau lock. That these would open to such an
infinitesimal suppliant seemed inconceivable.
But open they did, with ponderous majesty, and our
tiny hull was lost in the womb of a lock designed to
float the largest battleships. I thought of Boulter’s
on a hot August Sunday, and wondered if I really was
the same peevish dandy who had jostled and sweltered
there with the noisy cockney throng a month ago.
There was a blaze of electricity overhead, but utter
silence till a solitary cloaked figure hailed us and
called for the captain. Davies ran up a ladder,
disappeared with the cloaked figure, and returned
crumpling a paper into his pocket. It lies before
me now, and sets forth, under the stamp of the Koenigliches
Zollamt, that, in consideration of the sum of
ten marks for dues and four for tonnage, an imperial
tug would tow the vessel ‘Dulcibella’ (master
A. H. Davies) through the Kaiser Wilhelm Canal from
Holtenau to Brunsbuettel. Magnificent condescension!
I blush when I look at this yellow document and remember
the stately courtesy of the great lock gates; for
the sleepy officials of the Koenigliches Zollamt
little knew what an insidious little viper they were
admitting into the imperial bosom at the light toll
of fourteen shillings.
‘Seems cheap,’ said Davies,
joining me, ’doesn’t it? They’ve
a regular tariff on tonnage, same for yachts as for
liners. We start at four to-morrow with a lot
of other boats. I wonder if Bartels is here.’
The same silence reigned, but invisible
forces were at work. The inner gates opened and
we prised ourselves through into a capacious
basin, where lay moored side by side a flotilla of
sailing vessels of various sizes. Having made
fast alongside a vacant space of quay, we had our
dinner, and then strolled out with cigars to look for
the ‘Johannes’. We found her wedged
among a stack of galliots, and her skipper sitting
primly below before a blazing stove, reading his Bible
through spectacles. He produced a bottle of schnapps
and some very small and hard pears, while Davies twitted
him mercilessly about his false predictions.
‘The sky was not good,’
was all he said, beaming indulgently at his incorrigible
young friend.
Before parting for the night it was
arranged that next morning we should lash alongside
the ‘Johannes’ when the flotilla was marshalled
for the tow through the canal.
‘Karl shall steer for us both,’
he said, ’and we will stay warm in the cabin.’
The scheme was carried out, not without
much confusion and loss of paint, in the small hours
of a dark and drizzling morning. Boisterous little
tugs sorted us into parties, and half lost under the
massive bulwarks of the ‘Johannes’ we
were carried off into a black inane. If any doubt
remained as to the significance of our change of cruising-grounds,
dawn dispelled it. View there was none from the
deck of the ‘Dulcibella’; it was only by
standing on the mainboom that you could see over the
embankments to the vast plain of Holstein, grey and
monotonous under a pall of mist. The soft scenery
of the Schleswig coast was a baseless dream of the
past, and a cold penetrating rain added the last touch
of dramatic completeness to the staging of the new
act.
For two days we travelled slowly up
the mighty waterway that is the strategic link between
the two seas of Germany. Broad and straight,
massively embanked, lit by electricity at night till
it is lighter than many a great London street; traversed
by great war vessels, rich merchantmen, and humble
coasters alike, it is a symbol of the new and mighty
force which, controlled by the genius of statesmen
and engineers, is thrusting the empire irresistibly
forward to the goal of maritime greatness.
‘Isn’t it splendid?’
said Davies. ‘He’s a fine fellow,
that emperor.’
Karl was the shock-headed, stout-limbed
boy of about sixteen, who constituted the whole crew
of the ‘Johannes’, and was as dirty as
his master was clean. I felt a certain envious
reverence for this unprepossessing youth, seeing in
him a much more efficient counterpart of myself; but
how he and his little master ever managed to work
their ungainly vessel was a miracle I never understood.
Phlegmatically impervious to rain and cold, he steered
the ‘Johannes’ down the long grey reaches
in the wake of the tug, while we and Bartels held
snug gatherings down below, sometimes in his cabin,
sometimes in ours. The heating arrangements of
the latter began to be a subject of serious concern.
We finally did the only logical thing, and brought
the kitchen-range into the parlour, fixing the Rippingille
stove on the forward end of the cabin table, where
it could warm as well as cook for us. As an ornament
it was monstrous, and the taint of oil which it introduced
was a disgusting drawback; but, after all, the great
thing as Davies said is to be
comfortable, and after that to be clean.
Davies held long consultations with
Bartels, who was thoroughly at home in the navigation
of the sands we were bound for, his own boat being
a type of the very craft which ply in them. I
shall not forget the moment when it first dawned on
him that his young friend’s curiosity was practical;
for he had thought that our goal was his own beloved
Hamburg, queen of cities, a place to see and die.
‘It is too late,’ he wailed.
‘You do not know the Nord See as I do.’
‘Oh, nonsense, Bartels, it’s quite safe.’
’Safe! And have I not found
you fast on Hohenhoern, in a storm, with your rudder
broken? God was good to you then, my son.’
‘Yes, but it wasn’t my
f ’ Davies checked himself. ’We’re
going home. There’s nothing in that.’
Bartels became sadly resigned.
‘It is good that you have a
friend,’ was his last word on the subject; but
all the same he always glanced at me with a rather
doubtful eye. As to Davies and myself, our friendship
developed quickly on certain limited lines, the chief
obstacle, as I well know now, being his reluctance
to talk about the personal side of our quest.
On the other hand, I spoke about my
own life and interests, with an unsparing discernment,
of which I should have been incapable a month ago,
and in return I gained the key to his own character.
It was devotion to the sea, wedded to a fire of pent-up
patriotism struggling incessantly for an outlet in
strenuous physical expression; a humanity, born of
acute sensitiveness to his own limitations, only adding
fuel to the flame. I learnt for the first time
now that in early youth he had failed for the navy,
the first of several failures in his career.
’And I can’t settle down to anything else,’
he said. ’I read no end about it, and yet
I am a useless outsider. All I’ve been
able to do is to potter about in small boats; but
it’s all been wasted till this chance
came. I’m afraid you’ll not understand
how I feel about it; but at last, for once in a way,
I see a chance of being useful.’
‘There ought to be chances for
chaps like you,’ I said, ’without the
accident of a job such as this.’
’Oh, as long as I get it, what
matter? But I know what you mean. There
must be hundreds of chaps like me I know
a good many myself who know our coasts
like a book shoals, creeks, tides, rocks;
there’s nothing in it, it’s only practice.
They ought to make some use of us as a naval reserve.
They tried to once, but it fizzled out, and nobody
really cares. And what’s the result?
Using every man of what reserves we’ve got,
there’s about enough to man the fleet on a war
footing, and no more. They’ve tinkered with
fishermen, and merchant sailors, and yachting hands,
but everyone of them ought to be got hold of; and
the colonies, too. Is there the ghost of a doubt
that if war broke out there’d be wild appeals
for volunteers, aimless cadging, hurry, confusion,
waste? My own idea is that we ought to go much
further, and train every able-bodied man for a couple
of years as a sailor. Army? Oh, I suppose
you’d have to give them the choice. Not
that I know or care much about the Army, though to
listen to people talk you’d think it really
mattered as the Navy matters. We’re a maritime
nation we’ve grown by the sea and
live by it; if we lose command of it we starve.
We’re unique in that way, just as our huge empire,
only linked by the sea, is unique. And yet, read
Brassey, Dilke, and those “Naval Annuals”,
and see what mountains of apathy and conceit have
had to be tackled. It’s not the people’s
fault. We’ve been safe so long, and grown
so rich, that we’ve forgotten what we owe it
to. But there’s no excuse for those blockheads
of statesmen, as they call themselves, who are paid
to see things as they are. They have to go to
an American to learn their A B C, and it’s only
when kicked and punched by civilian agitators, a mere
handful of men who get sneered at for their pains,
that they wake up, do some work, point proudly to
it, and go to sleep again, till they get another kick.
By Jove! we want a man like this Kaiser, who doesn’t
wait to be kicked, but works like a nigger for his
country, and sees ahead.’
‘We’re improving, aren’t we?’
’Oh, of course, we are!
But it’s a constant uphill fight; and we aren’t
ready. They talk of a two-power standard ’
He plunged away into regions where space forbids me
to follow him. This is only a sample of many
similar conversations that we afterwards held, always
culminating in the burning question of Germany.
Far from including me and the Foreign Office among
his targets for vague invective, he had a profound
respect for my sagacity and experience as a member
of that institution; a respect which embarrassed me
not a little when I thought of my precis writing
and cigarette-smoking, my dancing, and my dining.
But I did know something of Germany, and could satisfy
his tireless questioning with a certain authority.
He used to listen rapt while I described her marvellous
awakening in the last generation, under the strength
and wisdom of her rulers; her intense patriotic ardour;
her seething industrial activity, and, most potent
of all, the forces that are moulding modern Europe,
her dream of a colonial empire, entailing her transformation
from a land-power to a sea-power. Impregnably
based on vast territorial resources which we cannot
molest, the dim instincts of her people, not merely
directed but anticipated by the genius of her ruling
house, our great trade rivals of the present, our
great naval rival of the future, she grows, and strengthens,
and waits, an ever more formidable factor in the future
of our delicate network of empire, sensitive as gossamer
to external shocks, and radiating from an island whose
commerce is its life, and which depends even for its
daily ration of bread on the free passage of the seas.
‘And we aren’t ready for
her,’ Davies would say; ’we don’t
look her way. We have no naval base in the North
Sea, and no North Sea Fleet. Our best battleships
are too deep in draught for North Sea work. And,
to crown all, we were asses enough to give her Heligoland,
which commands her North Sea coast. And supposing
she collars Holland; isn’t there some talk of
that?’
That would lead me to describe the
swollen ambitions of the Pan-Germanic party, and its
ceaseless intrigues to promote the absorption of Austria,
Switzerland, and a direct and flagrant menace
to ourselves of Holland.
‘I don’t blame them,’
said Davies, who, for all his patriotism, had not
a particle of racial spleen in his composition.
’I don’t blame them; their Rhine ceases
to be German just when it begins to be most valuable.
The mouth is Dutch, and would give them magnificent
ports just opposite British shores. We can’t
talk about conquest and grabbing. We’ve
collared a fine share of the world, and they’ve
every right to be jealous. Let them hate us,
and say so; it’ll teach us to buck up; and that’s
what really matters.’
In these talks there occurred a singular
contact of minds. It was very well for me to
spin sonorous generalities, but I had never till now
dreamed of being so vulgar as to translate them into
practice. I had always detested the meddlesome
alarmist, who veils ignorance under noisiness, and
for ever wails his chant of lugubrious pessimism.
To be thrown with Davies was to receive a shock of
enlightenment; for here, at least, was a specimen of
the breed who exacted respect. It is true he
made use of the usual jargon, interlarding his stammering
sentences (sometimes, when he was excited, with the
oddest effect) with the conventional catchwords of
the journalist and platform speaker. But these
were but accidents; for he seemed to have caught his
innermost conviction from the very soul of the sea
itself. An armchair critic is one thing, but a
sunburnt, brine-burnt zealot smarting under a personal
discontent, athirst for a means, however tortuous,
of contributing his effort to the great cause, the
maritime supremacy of Britain, that was quite another
thing. He drew inspiration from the very wind
and spray. He communed with his tiller, I believe,
and marshalled his figures with its help. To
hear him talk was to feel a current of clarifying air
blustering into a close club-room, where men bandy
ineffectual platitudes, and mumble old shibboleths,
and go away and do nothing.
In our talk about policy and strategy
we were Bismarcks and Rodneys, wielding nations
and navies; and, indeed, I have no doubt that our
fancy took extravagant flights sometimes. In plain
fact we were merely two young gentlemen in a seven-ton
pleasure boat, with a taste for amateur hydrography
and police duty combined. Not that Davies ever
doubted. Once set on the road he gripped his purpose
with child-like faith and tenacity. It was his
‘chance’.