Throughout the Colonial period, and
to a degree during the early years of the American
nation, Philadelphia clung to the manners and customs
of the mother country as did few other communities
in the new world. In architecture, therefore,
it is not surprising to find the oldest houses and
public buildings of the American metropolis of those
days reflecting the tendencies of the times across
the water. Wood had already ceased to be a cheap
building material in England, and although it was abundantly
available in America, brick and stone were thought
necessary for the better homes, despite the fact that
for some years, until sources of clay and limestone
were found, bricks and lime for making mortar had to
be brought at great expense from overseas. So
we find that in 1683, the year following the founding
of the “City of Brotherly Love”, William
Penn erected for his daughter Letitia the first brick
house in the town, which was for several years occupied
by Penn and his family. It was located in Letitia
Court, a small street running from Market to Chestnut
streets between Front and Second streets. Although
of little architectural value, it was of great historic
interest, and when in 1883 the encroachments of the
wholesale district threatened to destroy it, the house
was removed to Fairmount Park by the city and rebuilt
on Lansdowne Drive west of the Girard Avenue bridge.
It is open to the public and contains numerous Penn
relics.
Thus from the very outset brick construction
has been favored in preference to wood in Philadelphia.
Homes in the city proper were built of it chiefly,
and likewise many of the elegant countryseats in the
neighboring townships, now part of the greater Philadelphia
of to-day. The wealthier residents very early
set the fashion of both city and country living, following
in this custom the example of William Penn, the founder,
who not only had his house in town, but a country place,
a veritable mansion, long since gone, on an island
in the Delaware River above Bristol.
British builders had forsaken the
Jacobean manner of the early Renaissance and come
completely under the spell of the English Classic
or so-called Georgian style. Correspondingly,
American men of means were erecting country houses
of brick, with ornamental trim classic in detail,
and of marble and white-painted wood. Marked by
solidity, spaciousness and quiet dignity, they are
thoroughly Georgian in conception, and as such reminiscent
of the manorial seats of Virginia, yet less stately
and in various respects peculiar to this section of
the colonies. Like the bricks, the elaborate
interior woodwork was at first brought from overseas,
but later produced by resident artisans of whom there
was an ever increasing number of no mean order.
Almost without exception the Colonial
brickwork of Philadelphia was laid up with wide mortar
joints in Flemish bond, red stretcher and black header
bricks alternating in the same course. The arrangement
not only imparts a delightful warmth and pleasing
texture, but the headers provide frequent transverse
ties, giving great strength to the wall. With
this rich background the enlivening contrast of marble
lintels and sills and white-painted wood trim, in
which paneled shutters play a prominent part, form
a picture of rare charm, rendered all the more satisfying
by an appearance of obvious comfort, permanence and
intrinsic worth which wood construction, however good,
cannot convey.
Many of the splendid old pre-Revolutionary
country houses of brick no longer remain to us.
Some are gone altogether; others are remodeled almost
beyond recognition; a few, hedged around by the growing
city, have been allowed to fall into a state of hopeless
decay. Woodford, however, located in the Northern
Liberties, Fairmount Park, at York and Thirty-third
streets, is fairly representative of the type of Georgian
countryseat of brick, so many of which were erected
in the suburbs of Philadelphia about the middle of
the eighteenth century.
It is a large square structure, two
and a half stories in height, with a hipped roof rising
above a handsome cornice with prominent modillions
and surmounted by a balustraded belvedere. Two
large chimneys, much nearer together than is ordinarily
the case, emerge within the inclosed area of the belvedere
deck. A heavy pediment springs from the cornice
above the pedimental doorway, and this repetition of
the motive imparts a pleasing interest and emphasis
to the façade. The subordinate cornice at the
second-floor level is most unusual and may perhaps
reflect the influence of the penthouse roof which
became such a characteristic feature of the ledge
stone work of the neighborhood. Few houses have
the brick pilaster treatment at the corners with corresponding
cornice projections which enrich the ornamental trim.
Six broad soapstone steps with a simple wrought-iron
handrail at either side lead up to a fine doorway,
Tuscan in spirit, with high narrow doors. Above,
a beautiful Palladian window is one of the best features
of the façade. An interesting fenestration scheme,
with paneled shutters at the lower windows only, is
enhanced by the pleasing scale of twelve-paned upper
and lower window sashes having broad white muntins
throughout.
Opening the front door, one finds
himself in a wide hall with doorways giving entrance
to large front rooms on each side. Beyond, a beautifully
detailed arch supported by pilasters spans the hall.
The stairway is located near the center of the house
in a hall to one side of the main hall and reached
from it through a side door. Interior woodwork
of good design and workmanship everywhere greets the
eye, especially noticeable features being the rounding
cornices, heavy wainscots and the floors an inch and
a half in thickness and doweled together. Each
room has a fireplace with ornamental iron back, a
hearth of square bricks and a well-designed wood mantel.
In the south front room blue tiles depicting Elizabethan
knights and their ladies surround the fireplace opening.
Brass handles instead of door knobs lend distinction
to the hardware.
Woodford was erected in 1766 by William
Coleman, a successful merchant, eminent jurist and
a friend of Franklin. He was a member of the Common
Council in 1739, justice of the peace and judge of
the county courts in 1751 and judge of the Supreme
Court of Pennsylvania from 1759 until his death ten
years later.
Coleman’s executors sold the
place to Alexander Barclay, comptroller of His Majesty’s
Customs at Philadelphia, and the grandson of Robert
Barclay of Ury, the noted Quaker theologian and “Apologist.”
On Barclay’s death in 1771,
Woodford became the home of David Franks, a wealthy
Jewish merchant and one of the signers of the Non-Importation
Resolutions of 1765 by which a large body of leading
American merchants agreed “not to have any goods
shipped from Great Britain until after the repeal
of the Stamp Act.” He was prominent both
socially and politically, a member of the Provincial
Assembly in 1748 and the register of wills. Prior
to the outbreak of the Revolution, he was the agent
of the Crown in Philadelphia and was then made commissary
of the British prisoners in the American lines.
In 1778, however, he was arrested by General Benedict
Arnold for attempting to transmit a letter harmful
to the American cause, deprived of his commission and
property, and obliged to remove to New York two years
later.
One of Franks’ daughters, Abigail,
married Andrew Hamilton of The Woodlands, afterwards
attorney-general of Pennsylvania. Another daughter,
Rebecca, married General Sir Henry Johnson, who was
defeated and captured by General Anthony Wayne at
Stony Point. Rebecca Franks was one of the most
beautiful and brilliant women of her day. Well
educated, a gifted writer and fascinating conversationalist,
witty and winsome, she was popular in society and
one of the belles of the celebrated “Mischianza”,
which was given May 18, 1778, by the British officers
in honor of General Lord Howe upon his departure for
England. This was a feast of gayety with a tournament
somewhat like those common in the age of chivalry,
and was planned largely by Major John Andre, who was
later hanged by order of an American military commission
for his connection with the treason of General Benedict
Arnold.
Following the confiscation of Franks’
property in 1780, Woodford was sold to Thomas Paschall,
a friend of Franklin. Later it was occupied for
a time by William Lewis, a noted advocate, and in 1793
was bought by Isaac Wharton, son of Joseph Wharton,
owner of Walnut Grove in Southwark at about Fifth
Street and Walnut Avenue, where the “Mischianza”
was held. A son, Francis Rawle Wharton, inherited
the place on his father’s death in 1798 and
was the last private owner. In 1868 the estate
was made part of Fairmount Park, and since 1887 it
has been used as a guardhouse.
A country house typical of the time,
though unlike most other contemporary buildings in
the details of its construction, is Hope Lodge in
Whitemarsh Valley on the Bethlehem Pike just north
of its junction with the Skippack Pike. It is
thoroughly Georgian in conception, and most of the
materials, including all of the wood finish, were brought
from England. The place reached a deplorable state
of decay several years ago, yet the accompanying photograph
shows enough remaining to be of considerable architectural
interest.
It is a large, square house two and
a half stories high, its hipped roof broken by handsome
pedimental dormers with round-topped windows.
The front is of brick laid up in characteristic Flemish
bond, while the other walls are of plastered rubble
stone masonry, the brickwork and stonework being quoined
together at the front corners. A broad plaster
coving is the principal feature of the simple molded
cornice, and one notes the much used double belt formed
by two projecting courses of brick at the second-floor
level. The fenestration differs in several respects
from that of similar houses erected a quarter century
later. The arrangement of the ranging windows
is quite conventional, but instead of marble lintels
above them there are nicely gauged flat brick arches,
while the basement windows are set in openings beneath
segmental relieving arches with brick cores.
The latter are reflected in effect by the recessed
elliptical arches above all the windows in the walls
of plastered rubble masonry. The windows themselves,
with nine-paned upper and lower sashes having unusually
heavy muntins, likewise the shutters on the lower
story and the heavy paneled doors, are higher and narrower
than was the rule a few years later. The entrance,
with its characteristic double doors, is reached by
a porch and four stone steps, its low hip roof with
molded cornice being supported by two curious, square,
tapering columns. Porches were an unusual circumstance
in the neighborhood, and this one is so unlike any
others of Colonial times which are worthy of note
as to suggest its having been a subsequent addition.
Above, a round-arched recess with projecting brick
sill replaces the conventional Palladian window.
Indoors, an exceptionally wide hall
extends entirely through the house from front to back,
opening into spacious rooms on both sides through
round-topped doorways with narrow double doors heavily
paneled. An elliptical arch supported by fluted
pilasters spans the hall about midway of its length,
and a handsome staircase ascends laterally from the
rear part after the common English manner of that day.
Throughout the house the woodwork is of good design
and execution, the paneled wainscots, molded cornices,
door and window casings all being very heavy, and
the broad fireplaces and massive chimney pieces in
complete accord. Deep paneled window seats, very
common in contemporary houses, are a feature of the
first-floor rooms. The kitchens and the servants’
quarters are located in a separate building to the
rear, a brick-paved porch connecting the two.
This custom, as in the South, was characteristic of
the locality and period.
Hope Lodge was erected in 1723 by
Samuel Morris, a Quaker of Welsh descent, who was
a justice of the peace in Whitemarsh and an overseer
of Plymouth Meeting. Morris built it expecting
to marry a young Englishwoman to whom he had become
affianced while on a visit to England with his mother,
Susanna Heath, who was a prominent minister among the
Friends. The wedding did not occur, however, and
Samuel Morris died a bachelor in 1772, leaving his
estate to his brother Joshua, who sold Hope Lodge
in 1776 to William West. In 1784 West’s
executors conveyed it to the life interest of Colonel
James Horatio Watmough with a reversion to his guardian,
Henry Hope, a banker. It was Colonel Watmough
who named the place Hope Lodge as a compliment to
his guardian. One of his daughters married Joseph
Reed, son of General Joseph Reed, and another married
John Sargent, the famous lawyer. Both the Reeds
and Sargents occupied Hope Lodge at various times,
and it eventually passed into the Wentz family.
No other Colonial country house of
brick that now remains holds an interest, either architectural
or historic, quite equal to that of Stenton, which
stands among fine old oaks, pines and hemlocks in a
six-acre park, all that now remains of an estate of
five hundred acres located on Germantown Avenue on
the outskirts of Germantown near the Wayne Junction
railroad station. One of the earliest and most
pretentious countryseats of the neighborhood, it combines
heavy construction and substantial appearance with
a picturesque charm that is rare in buildings of such
early origin. This is due in part to the brightening
effect of the fenestration, with many small-paned windows
set in white-painted molded frames, and quite as much
to the slender trellises between the lower-story windows
supporting vines which have spread over the brickwork
above in the most fascinating manner. Both features
impart a lighter sense of scale, while the profusion
of white wood trim emphasizes more noticeably the
delightful color and texture of the brickwork.
The house is a great, square, hip-roofed
structure two and a half stories high with two large
square chimneys and severely plain pedimental dormers.
Servants’ quarters, kitchens and greenhouses
are located in a separate gable-roof structure a story
and a half high, extending back more than a hundred
feet from the main house, and connected with it by
a covered porch along the back. In the kitchen
the brick oven, the copper boiler and the fireplace
with its crane still remain.
The walls of the house consist of
characteristic brickwork of red stretchers and black
headers laid up in Flemish bond, with square piers
at the front corners and on each side of the entrance,
and there is the more or less customary projecting
belt at the second-floor level. On the second
story the windows are set close up under the heavy
overhanging cornice, with its prominent modillions,
while on the lower story there are relieving arches
with cores of brick instead of stone lintels so common
on houses a few decades later. There are similar
arches over the barred basement windows set in brick-lined
areaways. Interesting indeed is the scheme of
fenestration. Although formal and symmetrical
on the front, the windows piercing the other walls
frankly correspond to the interior floor plan, although
ranging for the most part. Unlike the usual arrangement,
there are two widely spaced windows above the entrance,
while the narrow flanking windows either side of the
doorway may be regarded as one of the earliest instances
of side lights in American architecture. The
severely simple entrance with its high narrow paneled
doors without either knob or latch is reached from
a brick-paved walk about the house by three semicircular
stone steps such as were common in England at the
time, the various nicely hewn pieces fastened securely
together with iron bands.
The front door opens into a large
square hall with a brick-paved floor and walls wainscoted
to the ceiling with white-painted wood paneling.
There is a fireplace on the right, and beyond an archway
in the rear a staircase ascends to the second floor.
To the right of the hall is the parlor, also with
paneled walls, and a fireplace surrounded by pink
tiles. In the wainscoted room back of this the
sliding top of a closet offers opportunity for a person
to conceal himself and listen through a small hole
to the conversation in the adjoining hall. To
the left of the hall is the dining room, beautifully
wainscoted and having a built-in cupboard for china
and a fireplace faced with blue tiles. The iron
fireback bears the inscription “J. .”
Back of this through a passageway is a small breakfast
room, whence an underground passage for use during
storms or sieges leads from a trap door in the floor
to the barns.
The second-story floor plan is most
unusual. The library, a great long room, extends
entirely across the front of the house, with its range
of six windows and two fireplaces on the opposite
wall, one faced with blue tiles and the other with
white. Here, with the finest private collection
of books in America at that time, the scholarly owner
spent his declining years, the library going to the
city of Philadelphia on his death. Two small
bedrooms, each with a fireplace, were occupied by his
daughters. A little back staircase leads to the
third floor, where the woodwork of the chambers was
unpainted.
Stenton was erected in 1728 by James
Logan, a scholar, philosopher, man of affairs, the
secretary and later the personal representative of
William Penn, the founder, and afterwards chief justice
of the colony. Descended from a noble Scottish
family, his father a clergyman and teacher who joined
the Society of Friends in 1761, James Logan himself
was for a time a teacher in London, but soon engaged
in the shipping trade. In 1699 he came to America
with William Penn as his secretary, and on Penn’s
return to England he was left in charge of the province.
Thereafter Logan became a very important personage,
much liked and fully trusted by all who knew him,
including the Indians, with whom he maintained friendly
relations. For half a century he was a mighty
factor in provincial affairs, and to read his life
is to read the history of Pennsylvania for that period,
for he was chief justice, provincial secretary, commissioner
of property, surveyor-general and president of the
council. His ample fortune, amassed in commerce
with Edward Shippen, in trade with the Indians, and
by the purchase and sale of lands, enabled him to
live and entertain at Stenton in a princely manner
many distinguished American and European personages
of that day.
When Logan died in 1751, he was succeeded
by his son William, who continued faithful to the
proprietary interests and carried on the Indian work.
His son, Doctor George Logan, was the next proprietor
during the Revolutionary period. Educated in England
and Scotland, he traveled extensively in Europe; after
his return to America he became a member of the Agricultural
and Philosophical Societies and was elected a senator
from Pennsylvania from 1801 to 1807.
During Doctor Logan’s occupancy
Washington, Jefferson, Franklin and many other distinguished
American and European personages were entertained
at Stenton. It was Washington’s headquarters
on August 23, 1777, while he was on his way to the
Brandywine from Hartsville. Ten years later, on
July 8, 1787, he came again as President of the Constitutional
Convention, then sitting in Philadelphia, to see a
demonstration of land plaster on grass land that had
been made by Doctor Logan.
Sir William Howe occupied Stenton
as his headquarters during the battle of Germantown,
October 4, 1777, and on November 22 ordered it destroyed,
along with the homes of other “obnoxious persons.”
The story of its narrow escape is interesting.
Two dragoons came to fire it. Meeting a negro
woman on their way to the barn for straw, they told
her she might remove the bedding and clothing.
Meanwhile a British officer and several men happened
along, inquiring for deserters, whereupon the negro
servant with ready wit said that two were hiding in
the barn. Despite their protests, the men were
carried away and the house was saved, as the order
to fire it was not repeated.
After Doctor Logan’s death in
1821, Stenton was occupied by his widow, Deborah Logan,
until her death in 1839, when it passed to her son
Albanus, an agriculturalist and sportsman. His
son Gustavus was the last private owner, as the house
was acquired by the city and occupied as their headquarters
by the Colonial Dames, the descendants of the Logan
family removing to Loudoun near by.
No account of the Colonial houses
of Philadelphia would be reasonably complete which
failed to include the home of Stephen Girard.
Although of scant architectural distinction, it is
of interest through its association with one of the
chief outstanding figures of a city noted for its
celebrated residents. It is a two-story hip-roofed
structure, rather narrow but of exceptional length,
taking the form of two plaster-walled wings on opposite
sides of a central portion of brick having a pediment
springing from the main cornice and a circular, ornamental
window. As at Hope Lodge a broad plaster coving
is the principal feature of the simple cornice.
The windows and chimneys differ in various parts of
the house, and the doors are strangely located, all
suggesting alterations and additions. The central
part of the house has casement sashes with blinds
as contrasted with Georgian sashes with paneled shutters
elsewhere, and all second-story windows are foreshortened.
Stephen Girard, a wealthy and eccentric
Philadelphia merchant, financier, philanthropist and
the founder of Girard College, was born near Bordeaux,
France, in 1750, the son of a sea captain. He
lost the sight of his right eye when eight years old
and had only a meager education. Beginning a
seafaring life as a cabin boy, he in time became master
and part owner of a small vessel trading between New
York, New Orleans and Port au Prince.
In May, 1776, he was driven into the port of Philadelphia
by a British fleet and settled there as a merchant.
Gradually he built up a fleet of vessels trading with
New Orleans and the West Indies, and by the close
of the Revolution, Girard was one of the richest men
of his time, and he used his wealth in numerous ways
to benefit the nation and humanity. In 1810 he
utilized about a million dollars deposited with the
Barings of London to purchase shares of the much depreciated
stock of the Bank of the United States, which materially
assisted the government in bolstering European confidence
in its securities. When the bank was not rechartered,
Girard bought the building and cashier’s house
for a third of their original cost, and in May, 1812,
established the Bank of Stephen Girard. In 1814,
when the government needed money to bring the second
conflict with England to a successful conclusion,
he subscribed for about ninety-five per cent of the
war loan of five million dollars, of which only twenty
thousand dollars besides had been taken, and he generously
offered to the public at par shares which, following
his purchase, had gone to a premium.
Girard showed his public spirit personally
as well as financially. During the yellow fever
epidemic in Philadelphia in 1793 and in 1797-1798
he took the lead in relieving the poor and caring for
the sick. He volunteered to act as manager of
the hospital at Bush Hill and with the assistance
of Peter Helm he cleansed the place and systemized
the work.
On his death in 1831, Girard’s
estate, the greatest private fortune in America, was
valued at about seven and a half million dollars, and
his philanthropy was again shown in his disposition
of it. Being without heirs, as his child had
died soon after its birth and his beautiful wife had
died after many years in an insane asylum, his heart
went out to poor and orphan children. In his
will he bequeathed $116,000 to various Philadelphia
charities; $500,000 to the city for improvement of
the Delaware River front, streets and buildings; $300,000
to Pennsylvania for internal improvements, especially
canals, and the bulk of the estate to Philadelphia,
chiefly for founding and maintaining a non-sectarian
school or college, but also for providing a better
police system, making municipal improvements and lessening
taxation. The college was given for the support
and education of poor white male orphans, of legitimate
birth and character, between the ages of six and ten;
and it was specified that no boy was to be permitted
to stay after his eighteenth year, and that as regards
admission, preference was to be shown, first to orphans
born in Philadelphia, second to orphans born in any
other part of Pennsylvania, third to orphans born
in New York City, and fourth to orphans born in New
Orleans.
Work upon the buildings was begun
in 1833, and the college was opened with five buildings
in 1848. The central one, an imposing structure
in the Corinthian style of architecture designed by
Thomas Ustick Walter, has been called “the most
perfect Greek temple in existence.” To it
in 1851 were removed the remains of Stephen Girard
and placed in a sarcophagus in the south vestibule.
The college fund, originally $5,260,000, has grown
to more than thirty-five million dollars; likewise
the college has become virtually a village in itself.
Some twenty handsome buildings and residences, valued
at about three and a half million dollars, and more
than forty acres of land accommodate about two thousand
students, teachers and employes.
Under the provisions of the Girard
trust fund nearly five hundred dwelling houses have
been erected by the city in South Philadelphia, all
heated and lighted by a central plant operated by the
trustees, and more than seventy million tons of coal
have been mined on property belonging to his estate.
Few philanthropists have left their money so wisely
or with such thoughtful provisions to meet changing
conditions.
Perhaps the brick mansion most thoroughly
representative of the type of Georgian country house,
of which so many sprang up about Philadelphia from
1760 to 1770, is Port Royal House on Tacony Street
between Church and Duncan streets in Frankford.
This great square, hip-roofed structure with its quoined
corners and projecting stone belt at the second-floor
level; its surmounting belvedere, ornamental dormers
and great chimney stacks; its central pediment springing
from a heavy cornice above a projecting central portion
of the façade in which are located a handsome Palladian
window and characteristic Doric doorway; its large,
ranging, twenty-four-paned windows with keyed stone
lintels and blinds on the lower story, is in brick
substantially what Mount Pleasant is in plastered
stone, as will be seen in Chapter V. As in the latter,
a broad central hall extends entirely through the house,
and the staircase is located in a small side hall.
The rooms throughout are large and contain excellent
woodwork and chimney pieces.
Port Royal House was erected in 1762
by Edward Stiles, a wealthy merchant and shipowner,
who like many others emigrated from Bermuda to the
Bahama island of New Providence and thence to Philadelphia
about the middle of the eighteenth century, to engage
in American commerce. He was the great-grandson
of John Stiles, one of the first settlers of Bermuda
in 1635, and the son of Daniel Stiles, of Port Royal
Parish, a vestryman and warden of Port Royal Church
and a member of the Assembly of Bermuda in 1723.
Commerce between the American colonies and Bermuda
and the West Indies was extensive, and Stiles’
business prospered. He had a store in Front Street
between Market and Arch streets, and a town house in
Walnut Street between Third and Fourth streets.
In summer, like other men of his station and affluence,
he lived at his countryseat, surrounded by many slaves,
on an extensive plantation in Oxford township, near
Frankford, that he had purchased from the Waln family.
To it he gave the name Port Royal after his birthplace
in Bermuda.
To Edward Stiles in 1775 befell the
opportunity to carry relief to the people of Bermuda,
then in dire distress because their supplies from
America had been cut off by the Non-Importation Agreement
among the American colonies. In response to their
petition to the Continental Congress, permission was
granted to send Stiles’ ship, the Sea Nymph
(Samuel Stobel, master), laden with provisions to be
paid for by the people of Bermuda either in gold or
arms, ammunition, saltpeter, sulphur and fieldpieces.
During the occupation of Philadelphia
by the British in 1777 and 1778, Frankford became
the middle ground between the opposing armies and
subject to the depredations of both. Port Royal
House, like many other estates of the vicinity, was
robbed of its fine furniture, horses, slaves and provisions.
Under the will of Edward Stiles his
slaves were freed and educated at the expense of his
estate. In 1853 the Lukens family bought Port
Royal House and for several years a boarding school
was conducted there. As the manufacturing about
Frankford grew, the locality lost its desirability
as a place of residence. The house was abandoned
to chance tenants and allowed to fall into an exceedingly
delapidated condition. The accompanying photograph,
however, depicts enough of its former state to indicate
that in its day it was among the best brick country
residences of the vicinity.