"FRED" BURNABY
I made the acquaintance of Colonel
Fred Burnaby in a balloon. In such strange quarters,
at an altitude of over a thousand feet, commenced a
friendship that for years was one of the pleasantest
parts of my life, and remains one of its most cherished
memories.
It was on the 14th of September, 1874.
A few weeks earlier two French aeronauts, a Monsieur
and Madame Duruof, making an ascent from Calais, had
been carried out to sea, and dropping into the Channel,
had passed through enough perils to make them a nine
days’ wonder. Arrangements had been completed
for them to make a fresh ascent from the grounds of
the Crystal Palace, and half London seemed to have
gone down to Sydenham to see them off. I was
young and eager then, and having but lately joined
the staff of the Daily News as special correspondent,
was burning for an opportunity to distinguish myself.
So I went off to the Crystal Palace resolved to go
up in the balloon.
“No,” said Mr. Coxwell,
when I asked him if there were a seat to spare in
the car. “No; I am sorry to say that you
are too late. I have had at least thirty applications
for seats, and as the car will hold only six persons,
and as practically there are but two seats for outsiders,
you will see that it is impossible.”
This was disappointing, the more so
as I had brought with me a large military cloak and
a pair of seal-skin gloves, under a general but well-defined
impression that the thing to do up in a balloon was
to keep yourself warm. Mr. Coxwell’s account
of the position of affairs so completely shut out
the prospect of a passage in the car that I reluctantly
resigned the charge of the military cloak and gloves,
and strolled down to the enclosure where the process
of inflating the balloon was going on. Here was
congregated a vast crowd, which increased in density
as four o’clock rang out, and the great mass
of brown silk into which the gas was being assiduously
pumped began to assume a pear-like shape, and sway
to and fro in the light air of the autumn afternoon.
About this time the heroes of the
hour, Monsieur and Madame Duruof walked into the enclosure,
accompanied by Mr. Coxwell and Mr. Glaisher.
A little work was being extensively sold in the Palace
bearing on the title-page, over the name “M.
Duruof,” a murderous-looking face, the letter-press
purporting to be a record of the life and adventures
of the French aeronauts. Happily M. Duruof bore
but the slightest resemblance to this portrait, being
a young man of pleasing appearance, with a good, firm,
frank-looking face.
By a quarter to five o’clock
the monster balloon was almost fully charged, and
was swaying to and fro in a wild, fitful manner, that
could not have been beheld without trepidation by
any of the thirty gentlemen who had so judiciously
booked seats in advance. The wickerwork car now
secured to the balloon was half filled with ballast
and crowded with men, whilst others hung on to the
ropes and to each other in the effort to steady it.
But they could not do much more than
keep it from mounting into mid-air. Hither and
thither it swung, parting in swift haste the curious
throng that encompassed it, and dragging the men about
as if they were ounce weights. The wind seemed
to be rising and the faces of the experienced aeronauts
grew graver and graver, answers to the constantly repeated
question, “Where is it likely to come down?”
becoming increasingly vague. At last Mr. Glaisher,
looking up at the sky and round at the neighbouring
trees bending under the growing blast, put his veto
upon Madame Duruof’s forming one of the party
of voyagers.
“We are not in France,”
he said. “The people will not insist upon
a woman going up when there is any danger. The
descent is sure to be rough, will possibly be perilous,
so Madame Duruof had better stay where she is.”
Madame Duruof was ready to go, but
was at least equally willing to stay behind, and so
it was settled that she should not leave the palace
grounds by the balloon. I cast a lingering thought
on the military cloak and the seal-skin gloves, in
safe keeping in a remote part of the building.
If Madame was not going there might be room for a substitute.
But again Mr. Coxwell would not listen to the proposal.
There were at least thirty prior applicants; some
had even paid their money, and they must have the
preference.
At five o’clock all was ready
for the start. M. Wilfrid de Fonvielle, a French
aeronaut and journalist, took off his hat, and in full
gaze of a sympathising and deeply interested crowd
deliberately attired himself in a Glengarry cap, a
thick overcoat, and a muffler. M Duruof put on
his overcoat, and Mr. Barker, Mr. Coxwell’s assistant,
seated on the ring above the car, began to take in
light cargo in the shape of aneroids, barometers,
bottles of brandy and water, and other useful articles.
M. Duruof scrambled into the car, one of the men who
had been weighing it down getting out to make room
for him. Then M. de Fonvielle, amid murmurs of
admiration from the crowd, nimbly boarded the little
ship, and immediately began taking observations.
There was a pause, and Mr. Coxwell, who stood by the
car, prepared for the rush of the Thirty. But
nobody volunteered. Names were called aloud; only
the wind, sighing amongst the trees made answer.
“Il faut partir,”
said M. Duruof, somewhat impatiently. Then a
middle-aged gentleman, who, I afterwards learned, had
come all the way from Cambridge to make the journey,
and who had only just arrived breathless on the ground,
was half-lifted, half-tumbled in, amid agonised entreaties
from Barker to “mind them bottles.”
The Thirty had unquestionably had a fair chance, and
Mr. Coxwell made no objection as I passed him and
got into the car, followed by one other gentleman,
who brought the number up to the stipulated half-dozen.
We were all ready to start, but it was thought desirable
that Madame Duruof should show herself in the car.
So she was lifted in, and the balloon allowed to mount
some twenty feet, frantically held by ropes by the
crowd below. It descended again, Madame Duruof
got out, and in her place came tumbling in a splendid
fellow, some six feet four high, broad-chested to boot,
who instantly made supererogatory the presence of half
a dozen of the bags of ballast that lay in the bottom
of the car.
It was an anxious moment, with the
excited multitude spread round far as the eye could
reach, the car leaping under the swaying balloon, and
the anxious, hurried men straining at the ropes.
But I remember quite well sitting at the bottom of
the car and wondering when the new-comer would finish
getting in. I dare say he was nimble enough, but
his full arrival seemed like the paying out of a ship’s
cable.
This was Fred Burnaby, only Captain
then, unknown to fame, with Khiva unapproached, and
the wilds of Asia Minor untrodden by his horse’s
hoofs. His presence on the grounds was accidental,
and his undertaking of the journey characteristic.
He had invited some friends to dine with him that
night at his rooms, then in St. James’s Street.
Hearing of the proposed balloon ascent, he felt drawn
to see the voyagers off, purposing to be home in time
to dress for dinner. The defection of the Thirty
appearing to leave an opening for an extra passenger,
Burnaby could not resist the temptation. So with
a hasty Au revoir! to his companion, the Turkish
Minister, he pushed his way through the crowd and
dropped into the car.
I always forgot to ask him how his
guests fared. As it turned out, he had no chance
of communicating with his servant before the dinner
hour. The arrival of Burnaby exceeded by one
the stipulated number of passengers, and Coxwell was
anxious for us to start before any more got in.
For a minute or two we still cling to the earth, the
centre of an excited throng that shout, and tug at
ropes, and run to and fro, and laugh, and cry, and
scream “Good-bye” in a manner that makes
our proposed journey seem dreadful in prospect.
The circle of faces look fixedly into ours; we hear
the voices of the crowd, see the women laughing and
crying by turns, and then, with a motion that is absolutely
imperceptible, they all pass away, and we are in mid-air
where the echo of a cheer alone breaks the solemn
calm.
I had an idea that we should go up
with a rush, and be instantly in the cold current
of air in view of which the preparation of extra raiment,
the nature of which has been already indicated, had
been made. But here we were a thousand feet above
the level of the Palace gardens, sailing calmly along
in bright warm sunlight, and no more motion perceptible
than if we were sitting on chairs in the gardens, and
had been so sitting whilst the balloon mounted.
It was a quarter past five when we left the earth,
and in less than five minutes the Crystal Palace grounds,
with its sea of upturned faces, had faded from our
sight. Contrary to prognostication, there was
only the slightest breeze, and this setting north-east,
carried us towards the river in the direction of Greenwich.
We seemed to skirt the eastern fringe of London, St.
Paul’s standing out in bold relief through the
light wreath of mist that enveloped the city.
The balloon slowly rose till the aneroid marked a
height of fifteen hundred feet. Here it found
a current which drove it slightly to the south, till
it hovered for some moments directly over Greenwich
Hospital, the training ship beneath looking like a
cockle boat with walking sticks for masts and yards.
Driving eastward for some moments, we slowly turned
by Woolwich and crossed the river thereafter steadily
pursuing a north-easterly direction.
Looking back from the Essex side of
the river the sight presented to view was a magnificent
one. London had vanished, even to the dome of
St. Paul’s, but we knew where the great city
lay by the mist that shrouded it and shone white in
the rays of the sun. Save for this patch of mist,
that seemed to drift after us far away below the car,
there was nothing to obscure the range of vision.
I am afraid to say how many miles it was computed
lay within the framework of the glowing panorama.
But I know that we could follow the windings of the
river that curled like a dragon among the green fields,
its shining scales all aglow in the sunlight, and
could see where it finally broadened out and trended
northward. And there, as M. Duruof observed with
a significant smile, was “the open sea.”
There was no feeling of dizziness
in looking down from the immense height at which we
now floated two thousand feet was the record
as we cleared the river. By an unfortunate oversight
we had no map of the country, and were, except in
respect of such landmarks as Greenwich, unable with
certainty to distinguish the places over which we
passed.
“That,” said Burnaby from
his perch up in the netting over the car, where he
had clambered as being the most dangerous place immediately
accessible, “is one of the great drawbacks to
the use of balloons in warfare. Unless a man
has natural aptitude, and is specially trained for
the work, his observations from a balloon are of no
use, a bird’s-eye view of a country giving impressions
so different from the actual position of places.”
This dictum was illustrated by the
scene spread out beneath us. Seen from a balloon
the streets of a rambling town resolve themselves into
beautifully defined curves, straight lines, and various
other highly respectable geometrical shapes.
We could not at any time make out
forms of people. The white highways that ran
like threads among the fields, and the tiny openings
in the towns and villages which we guessed were streets,
seemed to belong to a dead world, for nowhere was
there trace of a living person. The strange stillness
that brooded over the earth was made more uncanny
still by cries that occasionally seemed to float in
the air around us, behind, before, to the right, to
the left, but never exactly beneath the car.
We could hear people calling, and had a vague idea
they were running after us and cheering; but we could
distinguish no moving thing. Yes; once the gentleman
from Cambridge exclaimed that there were some pheasants
running across a field below; but upon close investigation
they turned out to be a troop of horses capering about
in wild dismay. A flock of sheep in another field,
huddled close together, looked like a heap of limestone
chippings. As for the fields stretched out in
wide expanse, far as the eye could reach, they seemed
to form a gigantic carpet, with patterns chiefly diamond
shape, in colour shaded from bright emerald to russet
brown.
At six o’clock the sun began
to drop behind a broad belt of black cloud that had
settled over London. The mist following us ever
since we crossed the river had overtaken us, even
passed us, and was strewed out over the earth, the
sky above our heads being yet a beautiful pale blue.
We were passing with increased rapidity over the rich
level land that stretches from the river bank to Chelmsford,
and there was time to look round at each other.
Burnaby had come down from the netting and disposed
his vast person amongst us and the bags of ballast.
He was driven down by the smell of gas, which threatened
to suffocate us all when we started. M. Wilfrid
de Fonvielle, kneeling down by the side of the car,
was perpetually “taking observations,”
and persistently asking for “the readings,”
which the gentleman from Cambridge occasionally protested
his inability to supply, owing either to Burnaby having
his foot upon the aneroid, or to the Captain so jamming
him up against the side of the car that the accurate
reading of a scientific instrument was not only inconvenient
but impossible.
When we began to chat and exchange
confidences, the fascination which balloon voyaging
has for some people was testified to in a striking
manner. The gentleman from Cambridge had a mildness
of manner about him that made it difficult to conceive
him engaged in any perilous enterprise. Yet he
had been in half a dozen balloon ascents, and had
posted up from his native town on hearing that a balloon
was going up from the Crystal Palace. As for
Burnaby, it was borne in upon me, even at this casual
meeting, that it did not matter to him what enterprise
he embarked upon, so that it were spiced with danger
and promised adventure. He had some slight preference
for ballooning, this being his sixteenth ascent, including
the time when the balloon burst, and the occupants
of the car came rattling down from a height of three
thousand feet, and were saved only by the fortuitous
draping of the half emptied balloon, which prevented
all the gas from escaping.
At half-past six we were still passing
over the Turkey carpet, apparently of the same interminable
pattern. Some miles ahead the level stretch was
broken by clumps of trees, which presently developed
into woods of considerable extent. It was growing
dusk, and no town or railway station was near.
Burnaby, assured of being too late for his dinner
party, wanted to prolong the journey. But the
farther the balloon went the longer would be the distance
over which it would have to be brought back and Mr.
Coxwell’s assistant was commendably careful of
his employer’s purse. On approaching Highwood
the balloon passed over a dense wood, in which there
was some idea of descending. But finally the
open ground was preferred, and, the wood being left
behind, a ploughed field was selected as the place
to drop, and the gas was allowed to escape by wholesale.
The balloon swooped downward at a somewhat alarming
pace, and if Barker had had all his wits about him
he would have thrown out half a bag of ballast and
lightened the fall. But after giving instructions
for all to stoop down in the bottom of the car and
hold onto the ropes, he himself promptly illustrated
the action, and down we went like a hawk towards the
ground.
As it will appear even to those who
have never been in a balloon, no advice could have
been worse than that of stooping down in the bottom
of the car, which was presently to come with a great
shock to the earth, and would inevitably have seriously
injured any who shared its contact. Fortunately
Burnaby, who was as cool as if he were riding in his
brougham, shouted out to all to lift their feet from
contact with the bottom of the car, and to hang on
to the ropes. This was done, and when the car
struck the earth it merely shook us, and no one had
even a bruise.
Before we began to descend at full
speed the grappling iron had been pitched over, and,
fortunately, got a firm hold in a ridge of the ploughed
land. Thus, when the balloon, after striking the
ground, leapt up again into the air and showed a disposition
to wander off and tear itself to pieces against the
hedges and trees, it was checked by the anchor rope
and came down again with another bump on the ground.
This time the shock was not serious, and after a few
more flutterings it finally stood at ease.
The highest altitude reached by the
balloon was three thousand feet, and this was registered
about a couple of miles before we struck Highwood.
For some distance before completing this descent we
had been skimming along at about a thousand feet above
the level of the fields, and the intention to drop
being evident, a great crowd of rustics gallantly kept
pace with the balloon for the last half-mile.
By the time we were fairly settled down, half a hundred
men, women, and children had converged upon the field
from all directions, and were swarming in through the
hedge.
Actually the first in at the death
was an old lady attired chiefly in a brilliant orange-coloured
shawl, who came along over the ridges with a splendid
stride. But she did not fully enjoy the privilege
she had so gallantly earned. She was making straight
for the balloon, when Burnaby mischievously warned
her to look out, for it might “go off.”
Thereupon the old lady, without uttering a word in
reply, turned round and, with strides slightly increased
in length, made for the hedge, through which she disappeared,
and the orange-coloured shawl was seen no more.
All the rustics appeared to be in
a state more or less dazed. What with having
been running some distance, and what with surprise
at discovering seven gentlemen dropped out of the
sky into the middle of a ploughed field, they could
find relief only in standing at a safe distance with
their mouths wide open. In vain Barker talked
to them in good broad English, and begged them to
come and hold the car whilst we got out. No one
answered a word, and none stirred a step, except when
the balloon gave a lurch, and then they got ready
for a start towards the protecting hedges. At
last Burnaby volunteered to drop out. This he
did, deftly holding on to the car, and by degrees
the intelligent bystanders approached and cautiously
lent a hand. Finding that the balloon neither
bit nor burned them, they swung on with hearty goodwill,
and so we all got out, and Barker commenced the operation
of packing up, in which task the natives, incited
by the promise of a “good drink,” lent
hearty assistance.
We had not the remotest idea where
we were, and night was fast closing in. Where
was the nearest railway station? Perhaps if we
had arrived in the neighbourhood in a brake or an
omnibus, we might have succeeded in getting an answer
to this question. As it was, we could get none.
One intelligent party said, after profound cogitation,
that it was “over theere,” but as “over
theere” presented nothing but a vista of fields some
ploughed and all divided by high hedges this
was scarcely satisfactory. In despair we asked
where the high-road was, and this being indicated,
but still vaguely and after a considerable amount of
thought, Burnaby and I made for it, and presently succeeded
in striking it.
The next thing was to get to a railway
station, wherever it might be, and as the last train
for town might leave early, the quicker we arrived
the better. Looking down the road, Burnaby espied
a tumble-down cart standing close into the hedge,
and strode down to requisition it. The cart was
full of hampers and boxes, and sitting upon the shaft
was an elderly gentleman in corduroys intently gazing
over the hedge at the rapidly collapsing balloon,
which still fitfully swayed about like a drunken man
awaking out of sleep.
“Will you drive us to the nearest
railway station, old gentleman?” said Burnaby
cheerily.
The old gentleman withdrew his gaze
from the balloon and surveyed us, a feeble, indecisive
smile playing about his wooden features; but he made
no other answer.
“Will you drive us to the nearest
railway station?” repeated Burnaby. “We’ll
pay you well.”
Still no answer came from the old
gentleman, who smiled more feebly than ever, now including
me in his intelligent purview. After other and
diverse attempts to draw him into conversation, including
the pulling of the horse and cart into the middle
of the road, and the making of a feint to start it
off at full gallop, it became painfully clear that
the old gentleman had, at sight of the balloon, gone
clean out of such senses as he had ever possessed,
and as there was a prospect of losing the train if
we waited till he came round again, nothing remained
but to help ourselves to the conveyance. So Burnaby
got up and disposed of as much of himself as was possible
in a hamper on the top of the cart. I sat on
the shaft, and taking the reins out of the old gentleman’s
resistless hand, drove off down the road at quite a
respectable pace.
After we had gone about a mile the
old gentleman, who had been employing his unwonted
leisure in staring at us all over, broke into a chuckle.
We gently encouraged him by laughing in chorus, and
after a brief space he said,
"I seed ye coming."
As I had a good deal to do to keep
the pony up and going, Burnaby undertook to follow
up this glimmering of returning sense on the part of
the old gentleman, and with much patience and tact
he succeeded in getting him so far round that we ascertained
we were driving in the direction of “Blackmore.”
Further than this we could not get, any pressure in
the direction of learning whether there was a railway
station at the town or village, or whatever it might
be, being followed by alarming symptoms of relapse
on the part of the old gentleman. However, to
get to Blackmore was something, and after half an hour’s
dexterous driving we arrived at the village, of which
the inn standing back under the shade of three immemorial
oak trees appeared to be a fair moiety.
We paid the old gentleman and parted
company with him, though not without a saddening fear
that the shock of the balloon coming down under his
horse’s nose, as it were, had permanently affected
his brain. At Blackmore we found a well-horsed
trap, and through woods and long country lanes drove
to Ingatestone, and as fast as the train could travel
got back to civilisation.
This was the beginning of a close
and intimate friendship, that ended only with Burnaby’s
departure for the Soudan. He often talked to me
of himself and of his still young life. Educated
at Harrow, he thence proceeded to Germany, where,
under private tuition, he acquired an unusually perfect
acquaintance with the French, Italian, and German
languages, and incidentally imbibed a taste for gymnastics.
At sixteen he, the youngest of one hundred and fifty
candidates, passed his examination for admission to
the army, and at the mature age of seventeen found
himself a cornet in the Royal Horse Guards. At
this time his breast seems to have been fired by the
noble ambition to become the strongest man in the
world. How far he succeeded is told in well-authenticated
traditions that linger round various spots in Windsor
and London. He threw himself into the pursuit
of muscle with all the ardour since shown in other
directions, and the cup of his joy must have been
full when a precise examination led to the demonstration
of the fact that his arm measured round the biceps
exactly seventeen inches. He could put ‘Nathalie’
(then starring it at the Alhambra) to shame with her
puny 56-lb. weight in each hand, and could ‘turn
the arm’ of her athletic father as if it had
been nothing more than a hinge-rusted nut-cracker.
His plaything at Aldershot was a dumb-bell weighing
170 lbs., which he lifted straight out with one hand,
and there was a standing bet of 10 pounds that no
other man in the Camp could perform the same feat.
At the rooms of the London Fencing Club there is to
this day a dumb-bell weighing 120 lbs., with record
of how Fred Burnaby was the only member who could
lift it above his head.
There is a story told of early barrack
days which he assured me was quite true. A horsedealer
arrived at Windsor with a pair of beautiful little
ponies he had been commanded to show the Queen.
Before exhibiting them to her Majesty he took them
to the Cavalry Barracks for display to the officers
of the Guards. Some of these, by way of a pleasant
surprise, led the ponies upstairs into Burnaby’s
room, where they were much admired. But when
the time came to take leave an alarming difficulty
presented itself. The ponies, though they had
walked upstairs, could by no means be induced to walk
down again. The officers were in a fix; the horsedealer
was in despair; when young Burnaby settled the matter
by taking up the ponies, one under each arm and, walking
downstairs, deposited them in the barrack-yard.
The Queen heard the story when she saw the ponies,
and doubtless felt an increased sense of security
at Windsor, having this astounding testimony to the
prowess of her Household Troops.
Cornet Burnaby was as skilful as he
was strong. He was one of the best amateur boxers
of the day, as Tom Paddock, Nat Langham, and Bob Travers
could testify of their well-earned personal experience.
Moreover, he fenced as well as he boxed, and the turn
of his wrist, which never failed to disarm a swordsman,
was known in more than one of the capitals of Europe.
Ten years before he started for Khiva, there was much
talk at the Rag of the wonderful feat of the young
Guardsman, who undertook for a small wager to hop
a quarter of a mile, run a quarter of a mile, ride
a quarter of a mile, row a quarter of a mile, and walk
a quarter of a mile in a quarter of an hour, and who
covered the mile and a quarter of distance in ten
minutes and twenty seconds.
Fred Burnaby had, whilst barely out
of his teens, realised his boyish dream, and become
the strongest man in the world. But he had also
begun to pay the penalty of success in the coin of
wasted tissues and failing health. When a man
finds, after anxious and varied experiments, that a
water-ice is the only form of nourishment his stomach
will retain, he is driven to the conviction that there
is something wrong, and that he had better see the
doctor. The result of the young athlete’s
visit to the doctor was that he mournfully laid down
the dumb-bells and the foil, eschewed gymnastics,
and took to travel.
An average man advised to travel for
his health’s sake would probably have gone to
Switzerland or the South of France, according to the
sort of climate held to be desirable. Burnaby
went to Spain, that being at the time the most troubled
country in Europe, not without promise of an outbreak
of war. Here he added Spanish to his already respectable
stock of languages, and found the benefit of the acquisition
in his next journey, which was to South America, where
he spent four months shooting unaccustomed game and
recovering from the effects of his devotion to gymnastics.
Returning to do duty with his regiment, he began to
learn Russian and Arabic, going at them steadily and
vigorously, as if they were long stretches of ploughed
land to be ridden over. A second visit to Spain
provided him with the rare gratification of being shut
up in Barcelona during the siege, and sharing all
the privations and dangers of the garrison. Whilst
in Seville during a subsequent journey he received
a telegram saying that his father was seriously ill.
France was at the time in the throes of civil war,
with the Communists holding Paris against the army
of Versailles. To reach England any other way
than via Paris involved a delay of many days, and Burnaby
determined to dare all that was to be done by the
Communists. So, carrying a Queen’s Messenger’s
bag full of cigars in packets that looked more or less
like Government despatches, he passed through Paris
and safely reached Calais.
A year later he set forth intending
to journey to Khiva, but on reaching Naples was striken
with fever, spent four months of his leave in bed,
and was obliged to postpone the trip. In 1874
he once more went to Spain, this time acting as the
special correspondent of the Times with the Carlists,
and his letters form not the least interesting chapter
in the long story of the miserable war. In the
early spring of 1875 he made a dash at Central Africa,
hoping to find “Chinese Gordon” and his
expedition. He met that gallant officer on the
Sobat river, a stream which not ten Englishmen have
seen, and having stayed in the camp for a few days,
set out homeward, riding on a camel through the Berber
desert to Korosko, a distance of five hundred miles.
After an absence of exactly four months he turned
up for duty at the Cavalry Barracks, Windsor, with
as much nonchalance as if he had been for a trip to
the United States in a Cunard steamer.
It was whilst on this flight through
Central Africa that the notion of the journey to Khiva
came back with irresistible force. It had been
done by MacGahan, but that plucky journalist had judiciously
started in the spring. Burnaby resolved to accomplish
the enterprise in winter; and accordingly, on November
30th, 1875, he started by way of St. Petersburg, treating
himself, as a foretaste of the joys that awaited him
on the steppes, to the long lonely ride through Russia
in midwinter. At Sizeran he left civilisation
and railways behind him, and rode on a sleigh to Orenburg,
a distance of four hundred and eighty miles. At
Orenburg he engaged a Tartar servant, and another stretch
of eight hundred miles on a sleigh brought him to
Fort N, the outpost of the Russian army facing
the desert of Central Asia. After this even the
luxury of sleigh-riding was perforce foregone, and
Burnaby set out on horseback, with one servant, one
guide, and a thermometer that registered between 70
degrees and 80 degrees below freezing point, to find
Khiva across five hundred miles of pathless, trackless,
silent snow.
Two Cossacks riding along this route
with despatches had just before been frozen to death.
The Russians, inured to the climate, had never been
able to take Khiva in the winter months. They
had tried once, and had lost six hundred camels and
two-thirds of their men before they saw the enemy.
But Fred Burnaby gaily went forth, clothed-on with
sheepskins. After several days’ hard riding
and some nights’ sleep on the snow, he arrived
in Khiva, chatted with the Khan, fraternised with
the Russian officers, kept his eyes wide open, and
finally was invited to return by a telegram from the
Commander-in-Chief, who had been brought to understand
how this strange visitor from the Cavalry Barracks
at Windsor had fluttered the military authorities at
St. Petersburg.
This adventure might have sufficed
an ordinary man for a lifetime. But in the very
next year, whilst his Ride to Khiva remained
the most popular book in the libraries, he paid a
second visit to the Turcomans, seeking them now, not
on the bleak steppes round Khiva, but in the more
fertile, though by Europeans untrodden, plains of Asia
Minor. He had one other cherished project of
which he often spoke to me. It was to visit Timbuctoo.
But whilst brooding over this new journey he fell in
love, married, settled down to domestic life in Cromwell
Gardens, and took to politics. It was characteristic
of him that, looking about for a seat to fight, he
fixed upon John Bright’s at Birmingham, that
being at the time the Gibraltar of political fortresses.
The last time I saw Fred Burnaby was
in September 1884. He was standing on his doorstep
at Somerby Hall, Leicestershire, speeding his parting
guests. By his side, holding on with all the might
of a chubby hand to an extended forefinger, was his
little son, a child some five years old, whose chief
delight it was thus to hang on to his gigantic father
and toddle about the grounds. We had been staying
a week with Burnaby in his father’s old home,
and it had been settled, on the invitation of his
old friend Henry Doetsch, that we should meet again
later in the year, and set out for Spain to spend
a month at Huelva. A few weeks later the trumpet
sounded from the Soudan, and like an old war-horse
that joyously scents the battle from afar, Burnaby
gave up all his engagements, and fared forth for the
Nile.
At first he was engaged in superintending
the moving of the troops between Tanjour and Magrakeh.
This was hard work admirably done. But Burnaby
was always pining to get to the front. In a private
letter dated Christmas Eve, 1884, he writes:
“I do not expect the last boat will pass this
cataract before the middle of next month, and then
I hope to be sent for to the front. It is a responsible
post Lord Wolseley has given me here, with forty miles
of the most difficult part of the river, and I am
very grateful to him for letting me have it.
But I must say I shall be better pleased if he sends
for me when the troops advance upon Khartoum.”
The order came in due course, and
Burnaby was riding on to the relief of Gordon when
his journey was stopped at Abu-Klea. He was attached
to the staff of General Stewart, whose little force
of six-thousand-odd men was suddenly surrounded by
a body of fanatical Arabs, nine thousand strong.
The British troops formed square, inside which the
mounted officers sat directing the desperate defence,
that again and again beat back the angry torrent.
After some hours’ fighting, a soldier in the
excitement of the moment got outside the line of the
square, and was engaged in a hand-to-hand conflict
with a cluster of Arabs. Burnaby, seeing his
peril, dashed out to the rescue “with
a smile on his face,” as one who saw him tells
me, and was making irresistible way against
the odds when an Arab thrust a spear in his throat,
and he fell off his horse dead. He sleeps now,
as he always yearned to rest, in a soldier’s
grave, dug for him by chance on the continent whose
innermost recesses he had planned some day to explore.
The date of his death was January
17th, 1885. His grave is nameless, and its place
in the lonely Desert no man knoweth.
“Brave Burnaby down! Wheresoever
’tis spoken
The news leaves the lips with a wistful
regret
We picture that square in the desert,
shocked, broken,
Yet packed with stout hearts, and impregnable
yet
And there fell, at last, in close melee,
the fighter
Who Death had so often affronted before;
One deemed he’d no dart for his
valorous slighter
Who such a gay heart to the battle-front
bore.
But alas! for the spear thrust that ended
a story
Romantic as Roland’s, as Lion-Heart’s
brief
Yet crowded with incident, gilded with
glory
And crowned by a laurel that’s verdant
of leaf.
A latter-day Paladin, prone to adventure,
With little enough of the spirit that
sways
The man of the market, the shop, the indenture!
Yet grief-drops will glitter on Burnaby’s
bays.
Fast friend as keen fighter, the strife
glow preferring,
Yet cheery all round with his friends
and his foes;
Content through a life-story short, yet
soul-stirring
And happy, as doubtless he’d deem,
in its close.”
Thus Punch, as it often does,
voiced the sentiments of the nation on learning the
death of its hero.