THE ASIAGO PLATEAU

About the middle of March the British Divisions moved up from the Montello to the Asiago Plateau, and all the British Heavy Artillery was concentrated in the Asiago sector.  We, therefore, moved six miles to the west and found ourselves in support of British, and no longer of Italian, Infantry.  Our Brigade ceased to be a “trench-punching” and became a “counter-battery” Brigade.  Most of our work in future was to be in close co-operation with our own Air Force.

My Battery was destined to remain here, with two short interludes, for seven months.  It was in many ways a very interesting sector.  The British held the line between the Italians on their left and the French on their right.  To the right of the French were more Italians.  The move had amusing features.  One compared the demeanour of the lorry drivers of different nationalities.  The scared faces of some of the British the first time they had to come up the hundred odd corkscrew turns on the mountain roads, taking sidelong glances at bird’s eye views of distant towns and rivers on the plain below, were rather comical.  Even the self-consciously efficient and outwardly imperturbable French stuck like limpets to the centre of the road, and would not give an inch to Staff cars, hooting their guts out behind them.  The Italian drivers, on the other hand, accustomed to the mountains, dashed round sharp corners at full speed, avoiding innumerable collisions by a fraction of an inch, terrifying and infuriating their more cautious Allies.  But I only once saw a serious collision here in the course of many months.

The Asiago Plateau is some eight miles long from west to east, with an average breadth of two to three miles from north to south.  On it lie a number of villages and small towns, of which the largest is Asiago itself, which lies at the eastern end of the Plateau and before the war had a population of about 8000.  Asiago was the terminus of a light railway, running down the mountains to Schio.  The chief occupation of the inhabitants of the Plateau had been wood-cutting and pasture.  In Asiago were several sawmills and a military barracks.  Army manoeuvres used often to take place in this area, which gave special opportunities for the combined practice of mountain fighting and operations on the flat.  It was moreover within seven miles of the old Austrian frontier.  Asiago was hardly known before the war to foreign tourists, but many Italians used to visit it, especially for winter sports.

Across the Plateau from north to south ran the Val d’Assa, which near the southern edge, having become only a narrow gulley, turned away westwards, the Assa stream flowing finally into the river Astico.  The Ghelpac stream, which flowed through the town of Asiago, joined the Assa at its western turn.  Apart from these two streams the Plateau was not well watered.  In summer, when the snows had melted, water was even scarcer on the surrounding mountains.  All our drinking water had to be pumped up through pipes from the plain.

The Plateau was bounded at its eastern end by Monte Sisemol, which stands at the head of the Val Frenzela, which, in turn, runs eastward into the Val Brenta near the little town of Valstagna.  Sisemol was of no great height and was not precipitous.  It had a rounded brown top, when the snow uncovered it.  But it was a maze of wire and trenches, and a very strong point militarily.  There had been very bitter fighting for its possession last November and it had remained in Austrian hands.

At the western end the Plateau was bounded by the descent to the Val d’Astico.  On the northern side of the Plateau rose a formidable mountain range, the chief heights of which, from west to east, were Monte Campolungo, Monte Erío, Monte Mosciagh and Monte Longara.  This range was thickly wooded with pines, among which our guns did great damage.  I always more regretted the destruction of trees than of uninhabited houses, for the latter can be the more quickly replaced.  This range was pierced by only four valleys, through each of which ran roads vital to the Austrian system of communications, the Val Campomulo, the Val di Nos, the Val d’Assa and the Val di Martello.  The Austrians had also a few roads over the top of the mountains, but these were less good and less convenient.

Along the southern side of the Plateau ran another ridge, less mountainous than the ridge to the north, and completely in our possession.  This ridge also was thickly wooded, and pierced by only a few valleys and roads.  The road we came to know best was the continuation of the wonderful road up from the plain, through Granezza to the cross-roads at Pria dell’ Acqua, and on through the Baerenthal Valley to San Sisto.  Thence it led through the front line trenches into the town of Asiago itself.  At Pria dell’ Acqua, a most misleading name, where there was no water, but only a collection of wooden huts, another road branched off westwards, running parallel to the front line, behind the southern ridge of the Plateau.

The Italian Engineers had created a magnificent network of roads in this sector of the Front.  Before the war there had been only one road into Asiago from the plain.  Now there were half a dozen, all broad and with a fine surface, capable of taking any traffic.  And, in addition, there were many transverse roads, equally good, joining up and cutting across the main routes at convenient points.

When the British troops took over this sector in March, the whole Plateau, properly so called, was in Austrian hands.  It had been taken last November in the mountain offensive which followed Caporetto.  At one perilous moment the Austrians had held San Sisto and their patrols had passed Pria dell’ Acqua, but they had been thrown back by Italian counter-attacks to the line they now held.  Our front line ran along the southern edge of the Plateau, and, on the right, along the lower slopes of the southern ridge, just inside the pine woods.  On the left, further west, it ran mostly on the flat and more in the open.  Where the Val d’Assa turned west, our front line ran on one side of the shallow gulley and the Austrian on the other.  The Austrian front line was completely in the open.  The first houses of Asiago were only a few hundred yards behind it.

From the defensive point of view our line was very strong, and the trenches, particularly at the eastern end, very good, deeply blasted in the rock.  The wooded ridge, running close behind our front line all the way, completely hid from the enemy all movement in our rear.  He could get no observation here except by aircraft.  Even movements in our front line, owing to the trees, were largely invisible at a distance, and, owing to the lie of the ground, large parts of No Man’s Land could be seen from our own trenches, but from nowhere in the enemy’s lines, with the result that we were able to post machine guns, trench mortars and even, for a short time, a field battery there, without being detected, until these weapons had served their immediate purpose.  Our systems of transport, supply and reliefs of the troops in the line could, therefore, be carried out at any hour of the day or night with almost complete disregard of the enemy.  His intermittent shelling of the roads was perfectly blind and haphazard and seldom did us any damage.

He, on the other hand, was in a very undesirable situation.  Not only was his front line all the way in full view from our various ground O.P.’s, but a long stretch of flat country several miles broad behind his front line was equally in view.  Only a few small folds in the ground were invisible from all points along our ridge.  We could see also most of the nearer slopes of the northern ridge, though here the thick woods and breaks in the hillside gave him greater opportunities for concealment.  Taking into account, therefore, ground observation only, we had him at a tremendous disadvantage.  He dared not move nor show himself in daylight behind his line, and was compelled to carry out all his supply and troop movements at night, or during fogs that might lift at any moment.  One French Battery did no other work except sweep up and down his roads throughout the hours of darkness, and it is obvious that the probable damage done in this way was far greater than anything he could hope to do to us.

Taking into account the possibilities of observation from the air, the balance in our favour became even greater.  We had a strong superiority in the air, whenever it was worth our while to enforce it, partly because our airmen were individually superior to the Austrians, and partly because we had more and better machines.  Our pilots often flew over the northern ridge, both to observe and to bomb, but the enemy seldom crossed the southern ridge.  His anti-aircraft Batteries were, however, at least as good as ours, and, in my opinion, better.

Most of our pre-arranged counter-battery shoots were carried out with aeroplane observation against enemy Batteries situated in the thick woods on the slopes of the northern ridge, the airman flying backwards and forwards over the target and sending us his observations by wireless.  But it was often necessary to spend more than half of the four hundred rounds allotted to a normal counter-battery shoot in destroying the trees round the target, before the airman could get a good view of it.  Flying, however, was always difficult on the Plateau, especially during the winter, and more difficult for our men than for theirs, since there were no feasible landing-places behind our lines.  Our nearest aérodromes were down on the plain, and a big expenditure of petrol was required to get the airman up the mountains and actually over the Plateau, and also to get him down again.  The time during which he could keep in the air for observation was, therefore, very limited.  Weather conditions on the Plateau, moreover, were often very unfavourable for flying even in the spring and summer.  The practical importance of our superiority in the air was thus smaller than might have been expected.

From the defensive point of view, then, our position was pretty strong.  But the sector was important and might at any time become critical, and much depended upon its successful defence.  For the mountain wall that guarded the Italian plain had been worn very thin in this neighbourhood by the Austrian successes of last year.  An Austrian advance of another few miles would bring the enemy over the edge of the mountains, with the plain beneath in full view.  Further defence would then become extremely difficult and costly, and the whole situation, as regards relative superiority of positions and observation, now so greatly in our favour, would be more than reversed.  We were too near the edge to have any elbow room or freedom of manoeuvre.  Our present positions were almost the last that we could hope to hold without very grave embarrassment.  It would have seemed evident, then, that to obtain more elbow room and security, we should not be content with a defensive policy, but should aim at gaining ground and thickening the mountain wall by means of an early local offensive, even if larger operations were not yet practicable.

But, from the offensive point of view, our position presented great difficulties.  To make only a small advance would leave us worse off than now.  Merely to go out into the middle of the Plateau, merely to reoccupy the ruins of Asiago, would be futile, except for a very slight and transitory “moral effect.”  To carry the whole Plateau and establish a line along the lower slopes of the northern ridge would be no better.  We should only be taking over the difficulties of the enemy in respect of his exposed positions, while he would escape from these difficulties and obtain an immunity from observation nearly as great as that which we now possessed.  No offensive would benefit us which did not give us, at the very least, the whole of the crest of the northern ridge.  And to aim at this would be a big and risky undertaking, involving perhaps heavy casualties and large reserves.  We had only three British Divisions in Italy at this time, the 7th, 23rd and 48th, two of which were always in the line and one in reserve.  The French had now only two Divisions in Italy and the Italians, when the German advance in France became serious, had sent to France more men than there were French and British left in Italy.  The large fact remained that, since the military collapse of Russia the previous year, the Austrians had brought practically their whole Army on to the Italian Front and established a large superiority over the Italians, both in numbers and in guns.  Considerable Italian reserves had to be kept mobile and ready to meet an Austrian offensive anywhere along the mountain front or on the plain.  There was not likely to be much that could be safely spared to back up a Franco-British offensive on the Plateau.  None the less, the value of a successful offensive here was recognised to be so great, that it was several times on the point of being attempted in the months that followed.  But it did not finally come, until events elsewhere had prepared the way and sapped the enemy’s power of resistance.

This, however, is anticipating history.  In March, when we first arrived, we moved into a Battery position in the pine woods behind the rear slope of the southern ridge.  Our right hand gun was only a hundred yards from the cross-roads at Pria dell’ Acqua, disagreeably close, as we afterwards discovered.  For the enemy had those cross-roads “absolutely taped,” as the expression went.  In other respects the Battery position was a good one.  Being an old Italian position, it had gun pits already blasted in the rock, though they were not quite suited to our guns and line of fire, and we had to do some more blasting for ourselves.  In the course of this, a premature explosion occurred, wounding one of our gunners so severely that he lost one leg and the sight of both his eyes and a few days later, perhaps fortunately, died of other injuries.  He was a Cornishman, very young and very popular with every one in the Battery.  We missed him greatly.  In this same accident Winterton was also injured, and nearly lost an eye.  He went to Hospital and thence to England, and saw no more of the war, for the sight of his eye came back to him but slowly.

The Italians had also blasted some good caverne in the position, and these we gradually enlarged and multiplied, till we had cover for the whole Battery.  Being on the side of a hill, and our guns not constructed to fire at a greater elevation than forty-five degrees (the Italians had fired at “super-elevations” up to eighty), we had to cut down many trees in front of the guns.  But this clearance hardly showed in aeroplane photographs, as there were already many bare patches in the woods.  We had perfect flash-cover behind the ridge and were, indeed, quite invisible, when the guns were camouflaged, even to an aeroplane flying low and immediately overhead.  From our position we could shoot, if necessary, right over the top of the northern ridge, on the other side of the Plateau.  And this was good enough for most purposes.

We prepared another position, which was known as the “Forward” or “Battle Position,” at San Sisto, about four hundred yards behind the front line.  This position we never occupied, but we should have done so, if an offensive had come from our side while we were still on the Plateau.  San Sisto, I was told, was once the centre of a leper reservation.  There is a little chapel there, but no other buildings.  This chapel was used by the R.A.M.C. as a First Aid Post.  One day I saw a shell go clean through the roof of it, but there was no one inside at the time.

The Battery O.P. was a glorious place, up a tall pine tree on the summit of Cima del Taglio, a high point to the east of the Granezza ­Pria dell’ Acqua road.  This O.P. had been built by the French.  It was reached by a strong pinewood ladder, with a small platform half way up as a resting-place.  The O.P. itself consisted of a wooden platform, nailed to cross pieces, supported on two trees.  It was about fifteen feet long and four feet broad and some ninety feet above the ground.  At one end of the platform a hut had been erected, with a long glass window, opening outward, on the northern side, and a small fixed glass window on the western.  The other end of the platform was uncovered.  When the weather was bad one could shelter in the hut and imagine oneself out at sea, as the trees swayed in the wind.  The O.P. was well hidden from the enemy by the branches of the trees.  The view was superb.  Immediately below the thick pine forest sloped gradually downwards, the trees still carrying a heavy weight of snow.  Among the trees patches of deep snow were visible, hiding rocky ground.  Beyond lay the Plateau, studded with villages and isolated houses, with the ruins of Asiago in the centre of the view, and, to the left of it, the light railway line and its raised embankment, along which the Austrian trenches ran.  And beyond, more pinewoods on the northern ridge, and beyond, more mountains, one snowy range behind another, up to the horizon.  The visibility was often poor and variable from one minute to another.  Great clouds used to sweep low over the Plateau, blotting out everything but the nearest trees, and then sweep past, and Asiago would come into sudden view again, and the sun would shine forth once more upon the little clusters of white houses, some utterly wrecked, some mere shells, others as yet hardly touched by the destruction of war.  The prosaic name of this O.P. was “Claud.”

There was another O.P. called Ascot, which we used sometimes to man at the beginning.  It was on, or rather in, Monte Kaberlaba, just behind the front line, approached through a communication trench and then a long tunnel through the rock, named by our troops the Severn Tunnel.  This tunnel was full of water and many worse things, and it was impossible to clean it out properly.  The unfortunate telephonists off duty had to live and sleep in it.  The O.P. was a cramped, little, stinking place at the far end of the tunnel, shared with the Italians, undoubtedly visible and well known to the enemy, and with practically no view.  The Major, by his usual skilful diplomacy, soon arranged that we should man Claud permanently, but Ascot never.

My only pleasant recollection of Ascot is that once, about midnight, as we were keeping watch together, a young Italian gunner from the Romagna sang to me.

   “‘Addio, mia bell’, addio!’
    Cantava nel partir la gioventú,
    Mentre gl’ imboscati si stavano
    Divertire, giornale in mano
    E la sigaretta. 
    Per noi l’assalto
    Alla baionetta! 
    Come lé mosche noi dobbiam morir,
    Mentre gl’ imboscati si stanno a divertir."

   “Good-bye, my darling, good-bye!”
   Sang the young men as they went away,
   While the imboscati were standing about
   To amuse themselves, with a newspaper in their hand
   And a cigarette. 
   For us the bayonet charge! 
   Like flies we must die. 
   While the imboscati stand about to amuse themselves.

This is one of many front line versions of a patriotic drawing-room song.  It has an admirable tune.]

He sang me also another longer song, composed by a friend of his, which is not fit for reproduction.

We experienced great variations of weather on the Plateau.  When we first arrived in March the snow was in full thaw, and every road a sunlit, rushing torrent.  We climbed about at that time in gum boots.  Later it snowed again heavily and often.  Sometimes for several days running we were enveloped in a thick mist, and then suddenly it would clear away.  Once, I remember, it cleared at night, and one saw the full moon rising through the pine trees into an utterly clear, ice-cold sky, and under one’s feet the hard snow scrunched and glittered in the moonlight.  British, French and Italian Batteries were all mixed together in this sector.  On our left came first another British Battery, then two French, one in front of the road and one behind it, then another British, then an Italian.  On our right, slightly more forward, the Headquarters of an Italian Heavy Artillery Group, in front of them a British and an Italian Battery, one on each side of the road leading past Kaberlaba to the front line.  To the right of the Italian Headquarters, across the San Sisto road, was a French Battery, with two Italian Batteries in front of it.  To our own right rear was one Italian Battery and two French, and in rear of them, back along the road to Granezza, our own Brigade Headquarters.

This mixture was a good arrangement, stimulating friendly rivalry and facilitating liaison and exchange of ideas.  Our relations were specially cordial with the Italian-Group Headquarters and with one of the French Batteries on our left.  The Italian Major commanding this Group was a Mantuan and he and I became firm friends.  It was in his Mess one night, in reply to the toast of the Allies, that I made my first after-dinner speech in Italian.  I do not claim that it was grammatically perfect, but all that I said was, I think, well understood, and I was in no hesitation for words.

Not till the end of May did Spring really climb the mountains, and the snow finally vanish, and then the days, apart from the facts of war, were perfect, blue sky and sunshine all day long among the warm aromatic pines and the freshness of the mountain air.  Here and there, in clearings in the forest, were patches of thick, rich grass, making a bright contrast to the dull, dark green of the pines, and in the grass arose many-coloured wild flowers.

The Italians have buried their dead up here in little groups among the trees, and not in great graveyards.  There was one such little group on the hillside in the middle of our Battery position, between two of our gunpits.  There was another in the middle of our forward position at San Sisto, and another, where some thirty Bersaglieri and Artillerymen were buried, in the Baerenthal Valley.  It was here one day that an Irish Major, newly come to Italy, said to me, “I don’t want any better grave than that.”  Nor did I. It was a place of marvellous and eternal beauty, ever changing with the seasons.  It made one’s heart ache to be in the midst of it.  It was hither that they brought in the months that followed many of the British dead, who fell in this sector, and laid them beside the Italians, at whose graves we had looked that day.