LIFE IN THE WILDERNESS
Stewart killed by the Indians. Squire
Boone returns to the Settlements. Solitary
Life of Daniel Boone. Return of Squire
Boone. Extended and Romantic Explorations. Charms
and Perils of the Wilderness. The Emigrant
Party. The Fatal Ambuscade. Retreat
of the Emigrants. Solitude of the Wilderness. Expedition
of Lewis and Clarke. Extraordinary Adventures
of Cotter.
There were now four hungry men to
occupy the little camp of our bold adventurers.
They do not seem to have been conscious of enduring
any hardships. The winter was mild. Their
snug tent furnished perfect protection from wind and
rain. With abundant fuel, their camp-fire ever
blazed brightly. Still it was necessary for them
to be diligent in hunting, to supply themselves with
their daily food. Bread, eggs, milk, butter,
sugar, and even salt, were articles of which they were
entirely destitute.
One day, not long after the arrival
of Squire Boone, Daniel Boone, with his companion
Stewart, was a long distance from the camp, hunting.
Suddenly the terrible war-whoop of the Indians resounded
from a thicket, and a shower of arrows fell around
them. Stewart, pierced by one of these deadly
missiles, fell mortally wounded. A sturdy savage
sprang from the ambuscade upon his victim, and with
a yell buried a tomahawk in his brain. Then,
grasping with one hand the hair on the top of his head,
he made a rapid circular cut with his gleaming knife,
and tore off the scalp, leaving the skull bare.
The revolting deed was done quicker than it can be
described. Shaking the bloody trophy in his hand,
he gave a whoop of exultation which echoed far and
wide through the solitudes of the forest.
Boone, swift of foot as the antelope,
escaped and reached the camp with the sad tidings
of the death of his companion, and of the presence,
in their immediate vicinity, of hostile Indians.
This so affrighted the North Carolinian who had come
with Squire Boone, that he resolved upon an immediate
return to the Yadkin. He set out alone, and doubtless
perished by the way, as he was never heard of again.
A skeleton, subsequently found in the wilderness,
was supposed to be the remains of the unfortunate
hunter. He probably perished through exhaustion,
or by the arrow or tomahawk of the savage.
The two brothers, Daniel and Squire,
were now left entirely alone.
They selected a favorable spot in
a wild ravine where they would be the least likely
to be discovered by hunting bands, and built for themselves
a snug and comfortable log-house, in which they would
be more effectually sheltered from the storms and
cold of winter, and into which they moved from their
open camp. Here they remained, two loving brothers
of congenial tastes, during the months of January,
February, March and April. Solitary as their
life must have been probably, every hour brought busy
employment. Each day’s food was to be obtained
by the rifle. Wood was to be procured for their
fire. All their clothing, from the cap to the
moccasin, was to be fashioned by their own hands from
the skin of the deer, which they had carefully tanned
into pliancy and softness; and there were to be added
to their cabin many conveniences which required much
ingenuity with knife and hatchet for their only tools,
and with neither nail nor screw for their construction.
In addition to this they were under the necessity
of being ever on the alert to discover indications
of the approach of the Indians.
The winter passed away, not only undisturbed,
but evidently very happily. It is remarkable
that their retreat was not discovered by any of the
Indian bands, who in pursuit of game were constantly
roving over those rich hunting grounds.
As summer’s warmth returned,
Squire Boone decided to retrace his steps to the Yadkin,
to carry to his brother’s family news of his
safety, and to obtain much needed supplies of powder
and of lead. There is no satisfactory explanation
of the motives which could have induced Daniel, after
the absence of a year from his home, to remain alone
in that solitary cabin. In his autobiography
he has assigned no reason for the extraordinary decision.
One of the most judicious of his biographers makes
the following statement which by no means solves the
mystery:
“When the spring came it was
time for another movement. The spring came early,
and the awaking to its foliage seemed like the passing
from night to the day. The game had reduced their
powder and lead, and without these there was no existence
to the white man. Again Daniel Boone rises to
the emergency. It was necessary that the settlement
which they had made should be continued and protected,
and it was the duty in the progress of events that
one of them should remain to that task. He made
the selection and chose himself. He had the courage
to remain alone. And while he felt the keenest
desire to see his own family, he felt that he had
a noble purpose to serve and was prepared for it."
Daniel Boone, in his quaint autobiography,
in the following terms alludes to the departure of
his brother and his own solitary mode of life during
the three months of his brother’s absence:
“On the first day of May, 1770,
my brother returned home to the settlement by himself
for a new recruit of horses and ammunition, leaving
me by myself without bread, salt or sugar, without
company of my fellow creatures, or even a horse or
dog. I confess I never before was under greater
necessity of exercising philosophy and fortitude.
A few days I passed uncomfortably. The idea of
a beloved wife and family, and their anxiety on account
of my absence and exposed situation, made sensible
impressions on my heart. A thousand dreadful apprehensions
presented themselves to my view, and had undoubtedly
exposed me to melancholy if further indulged.
“One day I took a tour through
the country, and the diversity and beauties of nature
I met with in this charming season, expelled every
gloomy and vexatious thought. Just at the close
of the day the gentle gales retired and left the place
to the disposal of a profound calm. Not a breeze
shook the most tremulous leaf. I had gained the
summit of a commanding ridge, and looking around with
astonishing delight beheld the ample plain, the beauteous
tracts below. On the other hand I surveyed the
famous river Ohio, that rolled in silent dignity, marking
the western boundary of Kentucky, with inconceivable
grandeur. At a vast distance I beheld the mountains
lift their venerable heads and penetrate the clouds.
“I kindled a fire near a fountain
of sweet water, and feasted on the loin of a buck.
The fallen shades of night soon overspread the whole
hemisphere, and the earth seemed to gape after the
hovering moisture. My roving excursion this day
had fatigued my body and diverted my imagination.
I laid me down to sleep, and I woke not until the sun
had chased away the night. I continued this tour,
and in a few days explored a considerable part of
the country, each day equally pleased as the first.
I returned to my old camp which was not disturbed in
my absence. I did not confine my lodging to it,
but often reposed in thick cane brakes, to avoid the
savages, who I believe often visited it, but, fortunately
for me, in my absence.
“In this situation I was constantly
exposed to danger and death. How unhappy such
a condition for a man tormented with fear, which is
vain if no danger comes; and if it does, only augments
the pain! It was my happiness to be destitute
of this afflicting passion, with which I had the greatest
reason to be affected. The prowling wolves diverted
my nocturnal hours with perpetual howlings, and the
various species of animals in this vast forest, in
the day-time were continually in my view. Thus
I was surrounded with plenty in the midst of want.
I was happy in the midst of dangers and inconveniences.
In such a diversity it was impossible I should be
disposed to melancholy. No populous city, with
all the varieties of commerce and stately structures,
could afford so much pleasure to my mind, as the beauties
of nature I found here.
“Thus through an uninterrupted
scene of sylvan pleasures, I spent the time until
the twenty-seventh day of July following, when my brother,
to my great felicity, met me, according to appointment,
at our old camp.”
Boone was at this time thirty-six
years of age. He was about five feet ten inches
in height, and of remarkably vigorous and athletic
frame. His life in the open air, his perfect
temperance, and his freedom from all exciting passions,
gave him constant health. Squire brought back
to his brother the gratifying news that his wife Rebecca
was in good health and spirits, and cheerfully acquiesced
in whatever decision her husband might make, in reference
to his absence. She had full confidence in the
soundness of his judgment, and in his conjugal and
parental love. The children were all well, and
from the farm and the forest the wants of the family
were fully supplied.
It appears that Squire Boone had succeeded
in bringing one or two horses across the mountains.
The abundance of grass kept them in fine condition.
Upon the backs of these horses, the pioneers could
traverse the treeless prairies without obstruction,
and large portions of the forest were as free from
underbrush as the park of an English nobleman.
Invaluable as these animals were to the adventurers,
they greatly increased their perils. They could
not easily be concealed. Their footprints could
not be effaced, and there was nothing the Indians
coveted so greatly as a horse.
The two adventurers now set out on
horseback for an exploring tour to the south-west.
Following a line nearly parallel with the Cumberland
Range, after traversing a magnificent region of beauty
and fertility for about one hundred and fifty miles,
they reached the banks of the Cumberland river.
This majestic stream takes its rise on the western
slope of the Cumberland mountains. After an exceedingly
circuitous route of six hundred miles, running far
down into Tennessee, it turns north-westerly again,
and empties its waters into the Ohio, about sixty
miles above the entrance of that river into the Mississippi.
It was mid-summer. The weather
was delightful. The forest free from underbrush,
attractive as the most artificial park, and the smooth
sweep of the treeless prairie presented before them
as enticing a route of travel as the imagination could
desire. There were of course hardships and privations,
which would have been regarded as very severe by the
dwellers in the sealed houses, but none which disturbed
in the slightest degree the equanimity of these hardy
adventurers. They journeyed very leisurely; seven
months being occupied in the tour. Probably only
a few miles were accomplished each day. With
soft saddles made of the skin of buffalo, with their
horses never urged beyond a walk, with bright skies
above them, and vistas of beauty ever opening before
them, and luxuriance, bloom and fragrance spread everywhere
around, their journey seemed replete with enjoyment
of the purest kind.
Though it was necessary to practice
the extreme of caution, to avoid capture by the Indians,
our adventurers do not seem to have been annoyed in
the slightest degree with any painful fears on that
account. Each morning they carefully scanned
the horizon, to see if anywhere there could be seen
the smoke of the camp-fire curling up from the open
prairie or from the forest. Through the day they
were ever on the alert, examining the trails which
they occasionally passed, to see if there were any
fresh foot prints, or other indications of the recent
presence of their foe. At night, before venturing
to kindle their own camp-fire, they looked cautiously
in every direction, to see if a gleam from an Indian
encampment could anywhere be seen. Thus from the
first of August to the ensuing month of March, these
two bold men traversed, for many hundred miles, an
unknown country, filled with wandering hunting bands
of hostile Indians, and yet avoided capture or detection.
If a storm arose, they would rear
their cabin in some secluded dell, and basking in
the warmth of their camp-fire wait until the returning
sun invited them to resume their journey. Or
if they came to some of nature’s favored haunts,
where Eden-like attractions were spread around them,
on the borders of the lake, by the banks of the stream,
or beneath the brow of the mountain, they would tarry
for a few days, reveling in delights, which they both
had the taste to appreciate.
In this way, they very thoroughly
explored the upper valley of the Cumberland river.
For some reason not given, they preferred to return
north several hundred miles to the Kentucky river,
as the seat of their contemplated settlement.
The head waters of this stream are near those of the
Cumberland. It however flows through the very
heart of Kentucky, till it enters the Ohio river,
midway between the present cities of Cincinnati and
Louisville. It was in the month of March that
they reached the Kentucky river on their return.
For some time they wandered along its banks searching
for the more suitable situation for the location of
a colony.
“The exemption of these men,”
said W. H. Bogart, “from assault by the Indians
during all this long period of seven months, in which,
armed and on horseback, they seem to have roamed just
where they chose, is most wonderful. It has something
about it which seems like a special interposition
of Providence, beyond the ordinary guardianship over
the progress of man. On the safety of these men
rested the hope of a nation. A very distinguished
authority has declared, that without Boone, the settlements
could not have been upheld and the conquest of Kentucky
would have been reserved for the emigrants of the nineteenth
century.”
Boone having now, after an absence
of nearly two years, apparently accomplished the great
object of his mission; having, after the most careful
and extensive exploration, selected such a spot as
he deemed most attractive for the future home of his
family, decided to return to the Yadkin and make preparations
for their emigration across the mountains. To
us now, such a movement seems to indicate an almost
insane boldness and recklessness. To take wife
and children into a pathless wilderness filled with
unfriendly savages, five hundred miles from any of
the settlements of civilization, would seem to invite
death. A family could not long be concealed.
Their discovery by the Indians would be almost the
certain precursor of their destruction. Boone,
in his autobiography, says in allusion to this hazardous
adventure:
“I returned home to my family
with a determination to bring them as soon as possible,
at the risk of my life and fortune, to live in Kentucky,
which I esteemed a second paradise.”
The two brothers accomplished the
journey safely, and Daniel Boone found his family,
after his long absence, in health and prosperity.
One would have supposed that the charms of home on
the banks of the Yadkin, where they could dwell in
peace, abundance and safety, would have lured our
adventurer to rest from his wanderings. And it
is probable that for a time, he wavered in his resolution.
Two years elapsed ere he set out for his new home
in the Far-West.
There was much to be done in preparation
for so momentous a movement. He sold his farm
on the Yadkin and invested the proceeds in such comforts
as would be available on the banks of the Kentucky.
Money would be of no value to him there. A path
had been discovered by which horses could be led through
the mountains, and thus many articles could be transported
which could not be taken in packs on the back.
Several of the neighbors, elated by the description
which Boone gave of the paradise he had found, were
anxious to join his family in their emigration.
There were also quite a number of young men rising
here and there, who, lured by the romance of the adventure,
were eager to accompany the expedition. All these
events caused delays. The party of emigrants became
more numerous than Boone at first expected.
It was not until the twenty-fifth
of September, 1773, that Daniel Boone, his brother
Squire, and quite a large party of emigrants, probably
in all men, women and children not
less than sixty in number, commenced their journey
across the mountains. There were five families
and forty pioneers, all well armed, who were quite
at home amid the trials and privations of the wilderness.
Four horses, heavily laden, led the train through
the narrow trails of the forest. Then came, in
single file, the remainder of the party, of all ages
and both sexes. It must have been a singular
spectacle which was presented, as this long line wound
its way through the valleys and over the ridges.
Squire Boone was quite familiar with
the path. It was delightful autumnal weather.
The days were long and calm, and yet not oppressively
hot. There were no gloved gentlemen or delicate
ladies in the company. All were hardy men and
women, accustomed to endurance. Each day’s
journey was short. An hour before the sun disappeared
in the west, the little village of cabins arose, where
some spring gurgled from the cliff, or some sparkling
mountain stream rippled before them. In front
of each cabin the camp-fire blazed. All was animation
and apparent joy, as the women prepared the evening
meal, and the wearied children rested upon their couch
of dried leaves or fragrant twigs. If a storm
arose, they had but to remain beneath their shelter
until it passed away.
“Traveling,” says Madame
de Stael, who was accustomed to the most luxurious
of European conveyances, “is the most painful
of pleasures.” Probably our travelers on
this journey experienced as many pleasures and as
few pains as often fall to the lot of any tourist.
The solitary wilderness has its attractions as well
as the thronged town.
These bold men armed with their rifles,
under such an accomplished leader as Daniel Boone,
penetrated the wilderness with almost the strength
of an invading army. Upon the open prairie, the
superiority of their arms would compensate for almost
any inferiority of numbers. Indeed they had little
to fear from the savages, unless struck suddenly with
overwhelming numbers leaping upon them from some ambush.
Pleasant days came and went, while nothing occurred
to interrupt the prosperity of their journey.
They were approaching the celebrated Cumberland Gap,
which seems to be a door that nature has thrown open
for passing through this great mountain barrier.
The vigilance they ought to have practiced had been
in some degree relaxed by their freedom from all alarm.
The cows had fallen a few miles behind, seven young
men were with them, a son of Daniel Boone being one
of the number. The main party was not aware how
far the cattle had fallen in the rear.
It is probable that the savages had
been following them for several days, watching for
an opportunity to strike, for suddenly, as they were
passing through a narrow ravine, the fearful war-whoop
resounded from the thickets on both sides, a shower
of arrows fell upon them, and six of the seven young
men were instantly struck down by these deadly missiles.
One only escaped. The attack was so sudden, so
unexpected, that the emigrants had scarcely time for
one discharge of their fire-arms, ere they were struck
with death. The party in advance heard with consternation
the reports of the muskets, and immediately returned
to the scene of the disaster. But several miles
intervened. They met the fugitive who had escaped,
bleeding and almost breathless.
Hurrying on, an awful spectacle met
their view. The bodies of six of the young men
lay in the path, mangled and gory, with their scalps
torn from their heads: the cattle were driven
into the forest beyond pursuit. One of these
victims was the eldest son of Daniel Boone. James
was a noble lad of but seventeen years. His untimely
death was a terrible blow to his father and mother.
This massacre took place on the tenth of October,
only a fortnight after the expedition had commenced
its march. The gloom which it threw over the
minds of the emigrants was so great, that the majority
refused to press any farther into a wilderness where
they would encounter such perils.
They had already passed two mountain
ridges. Between them there was a very beautiful
valley, through which flows the Clinch River.
This many leagues below, uniting with the Holston
River, flowing on the other side of Powell’s
Ridge, composes the majestic Tennessee, which, extending
far down into Alabama, turns again north, and traversing
the whole breadth of Tennessee and Kentucky, empties
into the Ohio.
Notwithstanding the remonstrances
of Daniel Boone and his brother, the majority of the
emigrants resolved to retreat forty miles over the
Walden Ridge, and establish themselves in the valley
of the Clinch. Daniel Boone, finding all his
attempts to encourage them to proceed in vain, decided
with his customary good sense to acquiesce in their
wishes, and quietly to await further developments.
The whole party consequently retraced their steps,
and reared their cabins on fertile meadows in the
valley of the Clinch River. Here, between parallel
ridges of mountains running north-east and south-west,
Boone with his disheartened emigrants passed seven
months. This settlement was within the limits
of the present State of Virginia, in its most extreme
south-western corner.
The value of the vast country beyond
the mountains was beginning to attract the attention
of the governors of the several colonies. Governor
Dunmore of Virginia had sent a party of surveyors to
explore the valley of the Ohio River as far as the
celebrated Falls of the Ohio, near the present site
of Louisville. Quite a body of these surveyors
had built and fortified a camp near the Falls, and
were busy in exploring the country, in preparation
for the granting of lands as rewards for services
to the officers and soldiers in the French war.
These pioneers were far away in the wilderness, four
hundred miles beyond any settlement of the whites.
They were surrounded by thousands of Indian warriors,
and still they felt somewhat secure, as a treaty of
peace had been made by the Governor of Virginia with
the neighboring chiefs. But, notwithstanding
this treaty, many of the more intelligent of the Indians
foresaw the inevitable destruction of their hunting
grounds, should the white men succeed in establishing
themselves on their lands, and cutting them up into
farms.
A friendly Indian had informed Governor
Dunmore that a very formidable conspiracy had been
organised by the tribes for the destruction of the
party encamped at the Falls of the Ohio, and for the
extermination of every other party of whites who should
penetrate their hunting grounds. It was in accordance
with this conspiracy that Daniel Boone’s party
was so fiercely assailed when near the Gap, in the
Cumberland mountains; and it was probably the knowledge
of this conspiracy, thus practically developed, which
led the husbands and fathers to abandon their enterprise
of plunging into the wilderness of Kentucky.
There were about forty men all numbered,
in the little band of surveyors at the Falls.
They were in terrible peril. Unconscious of danger,
and supposing the Indians to be friendly, they were
liable to be attacked on any day by overwhelming numbers
of savages, and utterly exterminated. It consequently
became a matter of great moment that Governor Dunmore
should send them word of their danger, and if possible
secure their safe return to the settlements.
But who would undertake such a mission? One fraught
with greater danger could not easily be imagined.
The courier must traverse on foot a distance of four
or five hundred miles through a pathless wilderness,
filled with hunting bands of hostile savages.
He must live upon the game he could shoot each day,
when every discharge of his musket was liable to bring
upon him scores of foes. He must either eat his
food raw, or cook it at a fire whose gleam at night,
or smoke by day, would be almost sure to attract the
attention of death-dealing enemies. He must conceal
his footprints from hunting bands, wandering far and
wide in every direction, so keen in their sagacity
that they could almost follow the track of the lightest-footed
animal through the forest or over the prairie.
The Indians had also well-trained
dogs, who being once put upon the scent, could with
unerring instinct follow any object of search, until
it was overtaken.
The name of Daniel Boone was mentioned
to Governor Dunmore as precisely the man to meet this
exigency. The Governor made application to the
practiced hunter, and Boone, without the slightest
hesitancy, accepted the perilous office. Indeed
he seems to have been entirely unconscious of the
heroism he was developing. Never did knight errant
of the middle ages undertake an achievement of equal
daring; for capture not only was certain death, but
death under the most frightful tortures. But Boone,
calm, imperturbable, pensive, with never a shade of
boastfulness in word or action, embarked in the enterprise
as if it had been merely one of the ordinary occurrences
of every-day life. In the following modest words
he records the event in his autobiography:
“I remained with my family on
the Clinch river until the sixth of June, 1774, when
I, and one Michael Stoner, were solicited by Governor
Dunmore of Virginia, to go to the Falls of the Ohio
to conduct into the settlements a number of surveyors
that had been sent thither by him some months before,
this country having about this time drawn the attention
of many adventurers. We immediately complied with
the Governor’s request, and conducted in the
surveyors, completing a tour of eight hundred miles,
through many difficulties, in sixty-two days.”
The narrative which follows will give
the reader some idea of the wilderness which Boone
was about to penetrate and the perils which he was
to encounter.
An emigrant of these early days who
lived to witness the transformation of the wilderness
from a scene of unbroken solitude into the haunts of
busy men, in the following words describes this change
and its influence upon the mind:
“To a person who has witnessed
all the changes which have taken place in the western
country since its first settlement, its former appearance
is like a dream or romance. He will find it difficult
to realise the features of that wilderness which was
the abode of his infant days. The little cabin
of his father no longer exists. The little field
and truck patch which gave him a scanty supply of
coarse bread and vegetables have been swallowed up
in the extended meadows, orchard or grain fields.
The rude fort in which his people had resided so many
painful summers has vanished.
“Everywhere surrounded by the
busy hum of men and the splendor, arts, refinements
and comforts of civilised life, his former state and
that of his country have vanished from his memory;
or if sometimes he bestows a reflection on its original
aspect, the mind seems to be carried back to a period
of time much more remote than it really is. One
advantage at least results from having lived in a
state of society ever on the change and always for
the better, that it doubles the retrospect of life.
With me at any rate it has had that effect. Did
not the definite number of my years teach me to the
contrary, I should think myself at least one hundred
years old instead of fifty. The case is said to
be widely different with those who have passed their
lives in cities or ancient settlements where, from
year to year, the same unchanging aspect of things
presents itself.
“One prominent feature of the
wilderness is its solitude. Those who plunged
into the bosom of this forest left behind them not
only the busy hum of men, but of domesticated animal
life generally. The solitude of the night was
interrupted only by the howl of the wolf, the melancholy
moan of the ill-boding owl or the shriek of the frightful
panther. Even the faithful dog, the only steadfast
companion of man among the brute creation, partook
of the silence of the desert; the discipline of his
master forbade him to bark or move but in obedience
to his command, and his native sagacity soon taught
the propriety of obedience to this severe government.
“The day was, if possible, more
solitary than the night. The noise of the wild
turkey, the croaking of the raven, or the woodpecker
tapping the hollow beech tree, did not much enliven
the dreary scene. The various tribes of singing
birds are not inhabitants of the desert. They
are not carnivorous and therefore must be fed from
the labors of man. At any rate they did not exist
in this country at its first settlement.
“Let the imagination of the
reader pursue the track of the adventurer into the
solitary wilderness, bending his course towards the
setting sun over undulating hills, under the shade
of large forest trees, and wading through the rank
weeds and grass which then covered the earth.
Now he views from the top of a hill the winding course
of a creek whose streams he wishes to explore.
Doubtful of its course and of his own, he ascertains
the cardinal points of north and south by the thickness
of the moss and bark on the north side of the ancient
trees. Now descending into a valley, he presages
his approach to a river by seeing large ash, basswood
and sugar trees beautifully festooned with wild grape
vines. Watchful as Argus, his restless eye catches
everything around him.
“In an unknown region and surrounded
with dangers, he is the sentinel of his own safety
and relies on himself for protection. The toilsome
march of the day being ended, at the fall of night
he seeks for safety some narrow sequestered hollow,
and by the side of a large log builds a fire and,
after eating a coarse and scanty meal, wraps himself
up in his blanket and lays him self down for repose
on his bed of leaves, with his feet to the fire, hoping
for favorable dreams, ominous of future good luck,
while his faithful dog and gun rest by his side.
“But let not the reader suppose
that the pilgrim of the wilderness could feast his
imagination with the romantic beauties of nature, without
any drawback from conflicting passions. His situation
did not afford him much time for contemplation.
He was an exile from the warm clothing and plentiful
mansions of society. His homely woodman’s
dress soon became old and ragged. The cravings
of hunger compelled him to sustain from day to day
the fatigues of the chase. Often he had to eat
his venison, bear’s meat, or wild turkey without
bread or salt. His situation was not without
its dangers. He did not know at what moment his
foot might be stung by a serpent, at what moment he
might meet with the formidable bear, or on what limb
of a tree over his head the murderous panther might
be perched, in a squatting attitude, to drop down upon
him and tear him in pieces in a moment.
“Exiled from society and its
comforts, the situation of the first adventurers was
perilous in the extreme. The bite of a serpent,
a broken limb, a wound of any kind, or a fit of sickness
in the wilderness without those accommodations which
wounds and sickness require, was a dreadful calamity.
The bed of sickness, without medical aid, and above
all to be destitute of the kind attention of a mother,
sister, wife, or other female friends, was a situation
which could not be anticipated by the tenant of the
forest, with other sentiments than those of the deepest
horror."
There are no narratives of more thrilling
interest than those which describe the perils and
hair-breadth escapes which some of these bold hunters
encountered. Immediately after the purchase of
Louisiana, an expedition under Lewis and Clark was
fitted out, under President Jefferson’s administration,
to explore the vast, mysterious, undefined realms
which the government had purchased. In the month
of May, 1804, the expedition, in birch canoes, commenced
the ascent of the Missouri river.
They knew not whence its source, what
its length or the number of its tributaries, through
what regions of fertility or barrenness it flowed,
or what the character of the nations who might inhabit
its banks. Paddling up the rapid current of this
flood of waters in their frail boats, the ascent was
slow. By the latter part of October they had
reached a point fifteen hundred miles above the spot
where the Missouri enters the Mississippi. Here
they spent the winter with some friendly Indians called
the Mandans.
Early in April, Lewis and Clark, with
thirty men in their canoes, resumed their voyage.
Their course was nearly west. In May they reached
the mouth of the Yellow Stone river, and on the 13th
of June came to the Great Falls of the Missouri.
Here they found a series of cataracts ten miles in
length. At one spot the river plunged over a precipice
eighty-seven feet in height. Carrying their canoes
around these falls, they re-embarked, and paddled
through what they called “The Gates of the Rocky
Mountains.” Here for six miles they were
in a narrow channel with perpendicular walls of rock,
rising on both sides to the height of twelve hundred
feet. Thus these adventurers continued their voyage
till they reached the head of navigation, three thousand
miles from the mouth of the Missouri river. Passing
through the mountains they launched their canoes on
streams flowing to the west, through which they entered
the Columbia river, reaching its mouth, through a
thousand perils on the 15th of November. They
were now more than four thousand miles distant from
the mouth of the Missouri. Such was the breadth
of the estate we had purchased of France.
Here they passed their second winter.
In the early spring they commenced their return.
When they arrived at the Falls of the Missouri they
encountered a numerous band of Indians, very bold and
daring, called the Blackfoot. These savages were
astonished beyond measure, at the effect of the rifle
which could emit thunder and lightning, and a deadly
though invisible bolt. Some of the boldest endeavored
to wrench the rifles from some of the Americans.
Mr. Lewis found it necessary to shoot one of them
before they would desist. The rest fled in dismay,
but burning with the desire for revenge. The
explorers continuing their voyage arrived at Saint
Louis on the 23rd of September, 1806, having been absent
more than two years, and having traveled more than
nine thousand miles.
When the expedition, on its return,
had reached the head waters of the Missouri, two of
these fearless men, Colter and Potts, decided to remain
in the wilderness to hunt beaver. Being well aware
of the hostility of the Blackfoot Indians, within
whose regions they were, they set their traps at night,
and took them up in the first dawn of the day.
Early one morning, they were ascending a creek in
a canoe, visiting their traps, when they were alarmed
by a great noise, like the trampling of animals.
They could see nothing, as the perpendicular banks
of the river impeded their view. Yet they hoped
that the noise was occasioned simply by the rush of
a herd of buffaloes.
Their doubts were soon painfully removed.
A band of six hundred Blackfoot warriors appeared
upon each side of the creek. Escape was hopeless.
The Indians beckoned to the hunters to come ashore.
Colter turned the head of the canoe towards the bank,
and as soon as it touched the land, a burly savage
seized the rifle belonging to Potts, and wrenched
it from his hand. But Colter, who was a man of
extraordinary activity and strength, grasped the rifle,
tore it from the hands of the Indian, and handed it
back to Potts. Colter stepped ashore and was a
captive. Potts, with apparent infatuation, but
probably influenced by deliberate thought, pushed
again out into the stream. He knew that, as a
captive, death by horrible torture awaited him.
He preferred to provoke the savages to his instant
destruction. An arrow was shot at him, which
pierced his body. He took deliberate aim at the
Indian who threw it and shot him dead upon the spot.
Instantly a shower of arrows whizzed through the air,
and he fell a dead man in the bottom of the boat.
The earthly troubles of Potts were ended. But
fearful were those upon which Colter was about to
enter.
The Indians, after some deliberation
respecting the manner in which they would put him
to death, stripped him entirely naked, and one of the
chiefs led him out upon the prairie to the distance
of three or four hundred yards from the rest of the
band who were grouped together. Colter then perceived
that he was to have the dreadful privilege of running
for his life; he, entirely naked and unarmed,
to be pursued by six hundred fleet-footed Indians
with arrows and javelins, and with their feet and
limbs protected from thorns and brambles by moccasins
and deerskin leggins.
“Save yourself if you can,”
said the chief in the Blackfoot language as he set
him loose. Colter sprung forward with almost supernatural
speed. Instantly the Indian’s war-whoop
burst from the lips of his six hundred pursuers.
They were upon a plain about six miles in breadth abounding
with the prickly pear. At the end of the plain
there was Jefferson river, a stream but a few rods
wide. Every step Colter took, bounding forward
with almost the speed of an antelope, his naked feet
were torn by the thorns. The physical effort
he made was so great that the blood gushed from his
nostrils, and flowed profusely down over his chest.
He had half crossed the plain before he ventured to
glance over his shoulder upon his pursuers, who, with
hideous yells, like baying bloodhounds, seemed close
upon his heels. Much to his relief he perceived
that he had greatly distanced most of the Indians,
though one stout savage, with a javelin in his hand,
was within a hundred yards of him.
Hope reanimated him. Regardless
of lacerated feet and blood, he pressed forward with
renovated vigor until he arrived within about a mile
of the river, when he found that his pursuer was gaining
rapidly upon him. He could hear his breathing
and the sound of his footsteps, and expected every
moment to feel the sharp javelin piercing his back.
In his desperation he suddenly stopped,
turned round and stretching out both of his arms,
rushed, in his utter defencelessness, upon the armed
warrior. The savage, startled by this unexpected
movement and by the bloody appearance of his victim,
stumbled and fell, breaking his spear as he attempted
to throw it. Colter instantly snatched up the
pointed part, and pinned his foe, quivering with convulsions
to the earth.
Again he plunged forward on the race
for life. The Indians, as they came up, stopped
for a moment around the body of their slain comrade,
and then, with hideous yells, resumed the pursuit.
The stream was fringed with a dense growth of cotton-wood
trees. Colter rushed through them, thus concealed
from observation, and seeing near by a large raft of
drift timber, he plunged into the water, dived under
the raft and fortunately succeeded in getting his
head above the water between the logs, where smaller
wood covered him to the depth of several feet.
Scarcely had he attained this hiding
place ere the Indians like so many fiends came rushing
down to the river’s bank. They searched
the cotton-wood thickets, and traversed the raft in
all directions. They frequently came so near
the hiding place of Colter that he could see them
through the chinks. He was terribly afraid that
they would set fire to the raft. Night came on,
and the Indians disappeared. Colter, in the darkness,
dived from under the raft, swam down the river to a
considerable distance, and then landed and traveled
all night, following the course of the stream.
“Although happy in having escaped
from the Indians, his situation was still dreadful.
He was completely naked under a burning sun. The
soles of his feet were filled with the thorns of the
prickly pear. He was hungry and had no means
of killing game, although he saw abundance around
him; and was at a great distance from the nearest settlement.
After some days of sore travel, during which he had
no other sustenance than the root known by naturalists
under the name of psoralea esculenta, he at
length arrived in safety at Lisa Fort, on the Big
Horn, a branch of the Yellow Stone river.”