Selecting breeders.
Selecting squabs for breeding purposes
must be done with great care and understanding.
If the right kind of birds are not selected your flock
will gradually deteriorate. With careful selection,
although slow, you will constantly be adding profitable
breeders to your stock. This is, of course, if
you start with P. V. Breeders, so as to have the nucleus
of a good flock to start with. Remember, good
breeders will breed plump, white squabs at a fast
rate, while poor breeders will grow small, dark squabs
that have not the vitality to ever be first-class
breeders. Even with P. V. breeders you must use
care in selecting the young, and it is wise when starting
with a few of our breeders to sell your squabs for
a time and buy more of our breeders until your flock
is large enough to have a good selection to choose
from.
The months when squabs should be saved
for breeders are, February, March, April and May.
The birds are in the best of condition then and the
squabs will be strong and vigorous. June and July
squabs are good, but are more expensive to raise,
as they are at mating age in September, October and
November, when they are subject to moult and are difficult
to mate at this time. I do not recommend saving
squabs during the other months, as I have found from
experience that they will breed well for two or three
years, and then, there is a falling off in squabs
and a heavy death rate among the hens.
When ready to select your squabs for
breeders, get some light pigeon bands. We use
a celluloid coil band that wraps around the leg and
stays in position without fastening. By using
a different color band every month, we know at a glance
the age of the youngster. Always take your squabs
in pairs and unless there are two good healthy squabs
in the nest do not take them. They do not have
to be of unusual size, but they should both be well
fed and weigh eight, nine or ten pounds to the dozen
if dressed. Band one bird on the right leg and
the other on the left and put back in the nest again.
This banding is merely to keep from inbreeding and
marking so as not to kill, and has nothing to do with
their being males or females. It is impossible
to tell with certainly the sex of a pigeon without
noting its actions. With squabs it is still harder,
and although after becoming experienced, it is possible
to make accurate guesses, one is apt to make a mistake
even with old birds.
The squabs banded should be left with
the parent birds till they are eight weeks’
old. Then remove to separate pens. The birds
banded on the right leg should go in one pen and the
youngsters banded on the left leg in a separate pen.
This will prevent nest mates going together and avoid
inbreeding.
The feeding and care for these birds
should be the same as for old breeders, except that
they should not have large American Corn and only
five per cent. peas. The grit should have a little
olive oil mixed with it once a week. The birds
will thrive satisfactorily for about one month in
their new quarters and then care has to be taken to
see that they do not get out in rainy weather, as
they undergo a moult and are very subject to cold.
This moulting time lasts for about three weeks, and
when they get past this stage you will see signs of
the birds mating. Do not be in any hurry to mate
them, as their first eggs are usually bad and they
sometimes will break their matings when taken out
too young.
The safest way to mate young pigeons
is to catch the birds sitting on eggs. Color
band the hen on the left leg, who usually sits in the
morning till around 11 o’clock. The corresponding
band should be fastened somewhere on the nest, and
when you see the mate sitting on the eggs, in the
afternoon, you must catch him, and band on the right
leg. Catching pigeons is usually done with a landing
net or crab net with a short handle. The birds
should always be caught from behind, if flying, so
as not to injure them. After you have caught the
pair, they should be removed to a separate pen so
that they can start to breed without interference.
If the eggs are good that they were sitting on, they
can be placed under other birds that have eggs of about
the same age, and sometimes are raised satisfactorily.
Do not make the mistake of just leaving all your youngsters
alone and trusting they will form even pairs, for
if you do, there are sure to be odd cocks that will
interfere seriously with their breeding.
Night mating with a flash light is
the quickest method, but requires a dark night and
considerable skill to always pick out the mated pairs.
Mated pairs will often sit together on the front of
their nest at night or the hen on the eggs or squabs
and the cock on the front. These birds can be
readily caught but great care must be exercised lest
the other birds fly off their nests and spoil their
eggs.
Driving pairs, that is, when one bird
continually chases another around pecking at it, are
usually mated but not always, so be careful to watch
them closely if you select mated pairs this way.
As a closing remark I would say, I
have found raising squabs is one of the pleasantest,
most interesting, and profitable ways of employing
spare time, and whether you are a man or woman, if
you apply this motto, you can succeed in the squab
industry.
Good Breeders, Good Feed,
and Good Care,
Then You Will
Get
Good Squabs, Good Prices,
and Good Profits,
Namely, success.