After the funeral his wife followed
out the usual native conventions. She covered
herself with pipeclay for about one month. She
also mourned and howled for the prescribed three days,
and gashed her head with stone knives, until the blood
poured down her face. Gibson’s body was
not buried in the earth, but embalmed with clay and
leaves, and laid on a rock-shelf in a cave.
The general belief was that Gibson
had merely gone back to the Spirit Land from whence
he had come, and that, as he was a great and good man,
he would return to earth in the form of a bird perhaps
an ibis, which was very high indeed. I must
say I never attached very much importance to what
he said, even in his sane moments, because he was obviously
a man of low intelligence and no culture. If
I remember rightly, he told me that the expedition
to which he was attached left Adelaide with the object
of going overland to Fremantle. It was thoroughly
well equipped, and for a long time everything went
well with the party. One day, whilst some of
them were off exploring on their own account, he lost
himself.
He rather thought that the sun must
have affected his brain even then, because he didn’t
try to find his companions that night, but went to
sleep quite contentedly under a tree. He realised
the horror of his position keenly enough the next
morning, however, and rode mile after mile without
halting for food or water, in the hope of quickly regaining
his friends at the chief camp. But night stole
down upon him once more, and he was still a lonely
wanderer, half delirious with thirst; the supply he
had carried with him had long since given out.
Next morning, when he roused himself,
he found that his horse had wandered away and got
lost. After this he had only a vague recollection
of what happened. Prompted by some strange, unaccountable
impulse, he set out on a hopeless search for water,
and went walking on and on until all recollection
faded away, and he remembered no more. How long
he had been lost when I found him he could not say,
because he knew absolutely nothing whatever about
his rescue. So far as I remember, he was a typical
specimen of the Australian pioneer a man
of fine physique, with a full beard and a frank, but
unintelligent, countenance. He was perhaps five
feet nine inches in height, and about thirty years
of age. When I told him the story of my adventures
he was full of earnest sympathy for me, and told me
that if ever I intended leaving those regions for
civilisation again, my best plan would be to steer
more south-east, as it was in that direction that
Adelaide lay.
He also informed me that the great
trans-Continental telegraph wire was being constructed
from north to south. This he advised me to strike
and follow to civilisation.
I may be permitted a little digression
here to give a few extracts from Giles’s book,
“Australia Twice Traversed” (Sampson Low
& Company), for this contains the version of the leader
of the expedition himself as to the circumstances
under which Gibson was lost. In all, it seems,
Giles made five exploring expeditions into and through
Central South Australia and Western Australia from
1872 to 1876. Speaking of his second expedition,
Mr. Giles says: “I had informed my friend,
Baron Von Mueller, by wire from the Charlotte Waters
Telegraph station, of the failure and break-up of
my first expedition, and he set to work and obtained
new funds for me to continue my labours. I reached
Adelaide late in January 1873, and got my party together.
We left early in March of 1873, and journeyed leisurely
up-country to Beltana, then past the Finnis Springs
to the Gregory. We then journeyed up to the Peake,
where we were welcomed by Messrs. Bagot at the Cattle
Station, and Mr. Blood of the Telegraph Department.
Here we fixed up all our packs, sold Bagot the waggon,
and bought horses and other things. We now had
twenty pack-horses and four riding-horses.”
We next come to the introduction of
Gibson. “Here a short young man accosted
me, and asked me if I didn’t remember him.
He said he was ‘Alf.’ I thought
I knew his face, but I thought it was at the Peake
that I had seen him; but he said, ’Oh, no!
Don’t you remember Alf, with Bagot’s
sheep at the north-west bend of the Murray? My
name’s Alf Gibson, and I want to go out with
you.’ I said, ’Well, can you shoe?
Can you ride? Can you starve? Can you
go without water? And how would you like to
be speared by the blacks?’ He said he could
do everything I had mentioned, and he wasn’t
afraid of the blacks. He was not a man I would
have picked out of a mob, but men were scarce, and
he seemed so anxious to come, so I agreed to take
him.
“Thus, the expedition consisted
of four persons myself (Ernest Giles),
Mr. William Henry Tietkins, Alf Gibson, and James Andrews;
with twenty-four horses and two little dogs.
On Monday, 4th August, we finally left the encampment.”
Now here is the passage in which Mr.
Giles describes his dramatic parting with Gibson.
It will be found in the chapter marked “20th
April to 21st May 1874”: “Gibson
and I departed for the West. I rode the ’Fair
Maid of Perth.’ I gave Gibson the big
ambling horse, ‘Badger,’ and we packed
the big cob with a pair of water-bags that contained
twenty gallons. As we rode away, I was telling
Gibson about various exploring expeditions and their
fate, and he said, ’How is it that, in all these
exploring expeditions, a lot of people go and die?’
He said, ’I shouldn’t like to die in
this part of the country, anyhow.’
“We presently had a meal of
smoked horse. It was late when we encamped,
and the horses were much in want of water, especially
the big cob, who kept coming up to the camp all night
and trying to get at our water-bags. We had one
small water-bag hung in a tree.
“I didn’t think of that
until my mare came straight up to it and took it in
her teeth, forcing out the cork, and sending the water
up, which we were both dying to drink, in a beautiful
jet. Gibson was now very sorry he had exchanged
‘Badger’ for the cob, as he found the latter
very dull and heavy to get along. There had
been a hot wind from the north all day, and the following
morning (the 23rd of April), there was a most strange
dampness in the air, and I had a vague feeling, such
as must have been felt by augurs and seers of old,
who trembled as they told events to come; for this
was the last day on which I ever saw Gibson.
“As Gibson came along after
me, he called out that his horse was going to die.
The hills to the west were twenty-five to thirty miles
away, and I had to give up trying to reach them.
How I longed for a camel! Gibson’s horse
was now so bad as to place both of us in a great dilemma.
We turned back in our tracks, when the cob refused
to carry his rider any farther, and tried to lie down.
We drove him another mile on foot, and down he fell
to die. My mare, the ‘Fair Maid of Perth,’
was only too willing to return, but she had now to
carry Gibson’s saddle and things, and away we
went, walking and riding in turns of one half-hour
each.
“When we got back to about thirty
miles from a place which I had named ‘The Kegs,’
I shouted to Gibson, who was riding, to stop until
I walked up to him. By this time we had hardly
a pint of water left between us.
“We here finished the supply,
and I then said, as I could not speak before, ’Look
here, Gibson, you see we are in a most terrible fix,
with only one horse. Only one can ride, and
one must remain behind. I shall remain; and
now listen to me. If the mare does not get water
soon, she will die; therefore, ride right on; get
to the Kegs, if possible, to-night, and give her water.
Now that the cob is dead, there’ll be all the
more water for her. Early to-morrow you will
sight the Rawlinson, at twenty-five miles from the
Kegs. Stick to the tracks and never leave them.
Leave as much water in one keg for me as you can afford,
after watering the mare and filling up your own bags;
and, remember, I depend upon you to bring me relief.’
“Gibson said if he had a compass
he thought he could go better by night. I knew
he didn’t understand anything about compasses,
as I had often tried to explain them to him.
The one I had was a Gregory’s Patent, of a
totally different construction from ordinary instruments
of the kind, and I was loth to part with it, as it
was the only one I had. However, as he was so
anxious for it, I gave it to him, and away he went.
I sent one final shout after him to stick to the
tracks, and he said, ‘All right’ and the
mare carried him out of sight almost instantly.
“Gibson had left me with a little
over two gallons of water, which I could have drunk
in half-an-hour. All the food I had was eleven
sticks of dirty, sandy, smoked horse, averaging about
an ounce and a half each.
“On the first of May, as I afterwards
found out, at one o’clock in the morning, I
staggered into the camp, and awoke Mr. Tietkins at
daylight. He glared at me as if I had been one
risen from the dead. I asked him if he had seen
Gibson. It was nine days since I last saw him.
The next thing was to find Gibson’s remains.
It was the 6th of May when we got back to where he
had left the right line. As long as he had remained
on the other horses’ tracks it was practicable
enough to follow him, but the wretched man had left
them and gone away in a far more southerly direction,
having the most difficult sand-hills to cross at right
angles. We found he had burnt a patch of spinifex
where he had left the other horses’ tracks.
“Whether he had made any mistake
in steering by the compass or not it is impossible
to say; but instead of going east, as he should have
done, he actually went south, or very near it.
“I was sorry to think that the
unfortunate man’s last sensible moments must
have been embittered by the thought that, as he had
lost himself in the capacity of messenger for my relief,
I, too, must necessarily fall a victim to his mishap.
“I called this terrible region,
lying between the Rawlinson Range and the next permanent
water that may eventually be found to the north, ’Gibson’s
Desert,’ after this first white victim
to its horrors.
“In looking over Gibson’s
few effects, Mr. Tietkins and I found an old pocket-book,
a drinking-song, and a certificate of his marriage.
He had never told us he was married.”
And now to resume my own narrative.
You will remember that I had settled down for a considerable
time on the shores of the lagoon, where I had made
everything around me as comfortable as possible.
Yamba had no difficulty whatever in keeping us well
supplied with roots and vegetables; and as kangaroos,
opossums, snakes, and rats abounded, we had an
ample supply of meat, and the lagoon could always be
relied upon to provide us with excellent fish.
The country itself was beautiful in the extreme,
with stately mountains, broad, fertile valleys, extensive
forests, and, above all, plenty of water.
The general mode of living among the natives was
much the same as that prevailing among the blacks
in my own home at Cambridge Gulf, although
these latter were a vastly superior race in point
of physique, war weapons, and general intelligence.
The people I now found myself among were of somewhat
small stature, with very low foreheads, protruding
chins, high cheek-bones, and large mouths. Their
most noteworthy characteristic was their extreme childishness,
which was especially displayed on those occasions when
I gave an acrobatic performance. My skill with
the bow and arrow was, as usual, a never-ending source
of astonishment. I was, in fact, credited with
such remarkable powers that all my ingenuity had sometimes
to be brought into play to accomplish, or to pretend
to accomplish, the things expected of me. I
knew that I must never fail in anything I undertook.
In the interior the natives never
seemed to grow very plump, but had a more or less
spare, not to say emaciated, appearance compared with
the tribes near the coast. For one thing, food
is not so easily obtainable, nor is it so nourishing.
Moreover, the natives had to go very long distances
to procure it.
Besides the low, receding forehead
and protruding chin I have already hinted at as characteristic
of the inland tribes, I also noticed that these people
had abnormally large feet. Also, the beards of
the men were not nearly so full or luxuriant as those
of the blacks at Cambridge Gulf. The average
height of the lagoon tribe was little more than five
feet. For myself, I am about five feet seven
and a half inches in height, and therefore I stalked
about among them like a giant.
Now that Gibson was dead I decided
to move my home farther north, and eventually settled
down with my family (two children a boy
and a girl had been born to me during my
residence on the shores of the lagoon) in a beautiful
mountainous and tropical region 200 or 300 miles to
the north. It was my intention only to have made
a temporary stay here, but other ties came, and my
little ones were by no means strong enough to undertake
any such formidable journey as I had in contemplation.
I also made the fatal mistake of trying to bring my
offspring up differently from the other savage children.
But I must relate here an incident that happened
on our journey north. Yamba came to me one day
positively quivering with excitement and terror, and
said she had found some strange tracks, apparently
of some enormous beast a monster so fearful
as to be quite beyond her knowledge.
She took me to the spot and pointed
out the mysterious tracks, which I saw at once were
those of camels. I do not know why I decided
to follow them, because they must have been some months
old. Probably, I reflected, I might be able
to pick up something on the tracks which would be
of use to me. At any rate, we did follow the
tracks for several days perhaps a fortnight and
found on the way many old meat-tins, which afterwards
came in useful as water vessels. One day, however,
I pounced upon an illustrated newspaper a
copy of the Sydney Town and Country Journal,
bearing some date, I think in 1875 or 1876. It
was a complete copy with the outer cover. I
remember it contained some pictures of horse-racing I
believe at Paramatta; but the “Long Lost Relative”
column interested me most, for the very moment I found
the paper I sat down in the bush and began to read
this part with great eagerness. I could read
English fairly well by this time, and as Yamba was
also tolerably familiar with the language, I read
the paper aloud to her. I cannot say she altogether
understood what she heard, but she saw that I was
intensely interested and delighted, and so she was
quite content to stay there and listen. You
will observe that in all cases, the very fact that
I was pleased was enough for Yamba, who never
once wavered in her fidelity and affection.
Altogether we spent some weeks following up these
tracks, but, of course, never came up with the caravan
of camels, which must have been some months ahead
of us. Yamba at length appeared to be a good
deal wearied at my persistency in following up the
tracks in this way; but after all, was it not merely
killing time? a mild sort of sensation
which served to break the eternal monotony that sometimes
threatened to crush me.
How I treasured that soiled copy of
the Town and Country as it is familiarly
called in Sydney! I read and re-read it, and
then read it all over again until I think I could
have repeated every line of it by heart, even to the
advertisements. Among the latter, by the way,
was one inserted apparently by an anxious mother seeking
information concerning a long-lost son; and this pathetic
paragraph set me wondering about my own mother.
“Well,” I thought, “she at least
has no need to advertise, and I have the satisfaction
of knowing that she must by this time be quite reconciled
to my loss, and have given me up as dead long ago.”
Strangely enough, this thought quite reconciled me
to my exile. In fact, I thanked Providence that
my disappearance had been so complete and so prolonged
as to leave not the slightest cause for doubt or hope
on the part of any of my relatives. Had I for
a moment imagined that my mother was still cherishing
hopes of seeing me again some day, and that she was
undergoing agonies of mental suspense and worry on
my behalf, I think I would have risked everything
to reach her. But I knew quite well that she
must have heard of the loss of the Veielland,
and long ago resigned herself to the certainty of
my death. I can never hope to describe the curious
delight with which I perused my precious newspaper.
I showed the pictures in it to my children and the
natives, and they were more than delighted, especially
with the pictures of horses in the race at Paramatta.
In the course of time the sheets of paper began to
get torn, and then I made a pretty durable cover out
of kangaroo hide. Thus the whole of my library
consisted of my Anglo-French Testament, and the copy
of the Town and Country Journal.
But I have purposely kept until the
end the most important thing in connection with this
strangely-found periodical. The very first eager
and feverish reading gave me an extraordinary shock,
which actually threatened my reason! In a prominent
place in the journal I came across the following passage:
“The Deputies of Alsace and Lorraine have
refused to vote in the German Reichstag.”
Now, knowing nothing whatever of the
sanguinary war of 1870, or of the alterations in the
map of Europe which it entailed, this passage filled
me with startled amazement. I read it over and
over again, getting more bewildered each time.
“The Deputies of Alsace and Lorraine have refused
to vote in the German Reichstag!” “But good
heavens!” I almost screamed to myself, “what
were the Alsace and Lorraine Deputies doing in the
German Parliament at all?” I turned the matter
over and over in my mind, and at last, finding that
I was getting worked up into a state of dangerous
excitement, I threw the paper from me and walked away.
I thought over the matter again, and so utterly incomprehensible
did it appear to me that I thought I must be mistaken that
my eyes must have deceived me. Accordingly I
ran back and picked the paper up a second time, and
there, sure enough, was the same passage. In
vain did I seek for any sane explanation, and at last
I somehow got it into my head that the appearance
of the printed characters must be due to a kind of
mental obliquity, and that I must be rapidly going
mad! Even Yamba could not sympathise with me,
because the matter was one which I never could have
made her understand. I tried to put this strange
puzzle out of my head, but again and again the accursed
and torturing passage would ring in my ears until
I nearly went crazy. But I presently put the
thing firmly from me, and resolved to think no more
about it.
It is not an exaggeration to describe
my mountain home in the centre of the continent as
a perfect paradise. The grasses and ferns there
grew to a prodigious height, and there were magnificent
forests of white gum and eucalyptus. Down in
the valley I built a spacious house the
largest the natives had ever seen. It was perhaps
twenty feet long, sixteen feet to eighteen feet wide,
and about ten feet high. The interior was decorated
with ferns, war implements, the skins of various animals,
and last but by no means least the
“sword” of the great sawfish I had killed
in the haunted lagoon. This house contained
no fireplace, because all the cooking was done in
the open air. The walls were built of rough logs,
the crevices being filled in with earth taken from
ant-hills. I have just said that I built
the house. This is, perhaps, not strictly correct.
It was Yamba and the other women-folk who actually
carried out the work, under my supervision.
Here it is necessary to explain that I did not dare
to do much manual labour, because it would have been
considered undignified on my part. I really did
not want the house; but, strangely enough, I felt
much more comfortable when it was built and furnished,
because, after all, it was a source of infinite satisfaction
to me to feel that I had a home I could call
my own. I had grown very weary of living like
an animal in the bush, and lying down to sleep at
night on the bare ground. It was this same consideration
of “home” that induced me to build a little
hut for poor Gibson.
The floor of my house was two or three
feet above the ground in order to escape the ravages
of the rats. There was only one storey, of course,
and the whole was divided into two rooms one
as a kind of sitting-room and the other as a bedroom.
The former I fitted out with home-made tables and
chairs (I had become pretty expert from my experience
with the girls); and each day fresh eucalyptus leaves
were strewed about, partly for cleanliness, and partly
because the odour kept away the mosquitoes. I
also built another house about two days’ tramp
up the mountains, and to this we usually resorted
in the very hot weather.
Now here I have a curious confession
to make. As the months glided into years, and
I reviewed the whole of my strange life since the days
when I went pearling with Jensen, the thought began
gradually to steal into my mind, “Why not wait
until civilisation COMES TO YOU as it must
do in time? Why weary yourself any more with
incessant struggles to get back to the world especially
when you are so comfortable here?” Gradually,
then, I settled down and was made absolute chief over
a tribe of perhaps five hundred souls. Besides
this, my fame spread abroad into the surrounding country,
and at every new moon I held a sort of informal reception,
which was attended by deputations of tribesmen for
hundreds of miles around. My own tribe already
possessed a chieftain of their own but my position
was one of even greater influence than his. Moreover,
I was appointed to it without having to undergo the
painful ceremonies that initiation entails.
My immunity in this respect was of course owing to
my supposed great powers, and the belief that I was
a returned spirit. I was always present at tribal
and war councils, and also had some authority over
other tribes.
I adopted every device I could think
of to make my dwelling home-like, and I even journeyed
many miles in a NNE. direction, to procure cuttings
of grape vines I had seen; but I must say that this
at any rate was labour in vain, because I never improved
upon the quality of the wild grapes, which had a sharp,
acid flavour, that affected the throat somewhat unpleasantly
until one got used to them.
When I speak of my “mountain
home,” it must not be supposed that I remained
in one place. As a matter of fact, in accordance
with my usual practice, I took long excursions in
different directions extending over weeks and even
months at a time. On these occasions I always
took with me a kind of nut, which, when eaten, endowed
one with remarkable powers of vitality and endurance.
Since my return to civilisation I have heard of the
Kola nut, but cannot say whether the substance used
by the Australian aboriginal is the same or not.
I remember we generally roasted ours, and ate it
as we tramped along. In the course of my numerous
journeys abroad I blazed or marked a great number of
trees; my usual mark being an oval, in or underneath
which I generally carved the letter “L.”
I seldom met with hostile natives in this region,
but when I did my mysterious bow and arrows generally
sufficed to impress them. By the way, I never
introduced the bow as a weapon among the blacks, and
they, on their part, never tried to imitate me.
They are a conservative race, and are perfectly satisfied
with their own time-honoured weapons.
Wild geese and ducks were plentiful
in those regions, and there was an infinite variety
of game. From this you will gather that our daily
fare was both ample and luxurious.
And we had pets; I remember I once
caught a live cockatoo, and trained him to help me
in my hunting expeditions. I taught him a few
English phrases, such as “Good-morning,”
and “How are you?”; and he would perch
himself on a tree and attract great numbers of his
kind around him by his incessant chattering.
I would then knock over as many as I wanted by means
of my bow and arrows. At this time, indeed, I
had quite a menagerie of animals, including a tame
kangaroo. Naturally enough, I had ample leisure
to study the ethnology of my people. I soon made
the discovery that my blacks were intensely spiritualistic;
and once a year they held a festival which, when described,
will, I am afraid, tax the credulity of my readers.
The festival I refer to was held “when the sun
was born again,” i.e., soon
after the shortest day of the year, which would be
sometime in June. On these occasions the adult
warriors from far and near assembled at a certain
spot, and after a course of festivities, sat down
to an extraordinary séance conducted by women very
old, wizened witches who apparently possessed
occult powers, and were held in great veneration.
These witches are usually maintained at the expense
of the tribe. The office, however, does not necessarily
descend from mother to daughter, it being only women
credited with supernatural powers who can claim the
position.
After the great corroboree
the people would squat on the ground, the old men
and warriors in front, the women behind, and the children
behind them. The whole congregation was arranged
in the form of a crescent, in the centre of which
a large fire would be set burning. Some of the
warriors would then start chanting, and their monotonous
sing-song would presently be taken up by the rest
of the gathering, to the accompaniment of much swaying
of heads and beating of hands and thighs. The
young warriors then went out into the open and commenced
to dance.
I may as well describe in detail the
first of these extraordinary festivals which I witnessed.
The men chanted and danced themselves into a perfect
frenzy, which was still further increased by the appearance
of three or four witches who suddenly rose up before
the fire. They were very old and haggard-looking
creatures, with skins like shrivelled parchment; they
had scanty, dishevelled hair, and piercing, beady eyes.
They were not ornamented in any way, and seemed more
like skeletons from a tomb than human beings.
After they had gyrated wildly round the fire for
a short time, the chant suddenly ceased, and the witches
fell prostrate upon the ground, calling out as they
did so the names of some departed chiefs. A
deathly silence then fell on the assembled gathering,
and all eyes were turned towards the wreaths of smoke
that were ascending into the evening sky. The
witches presently renewed their plaintive cries and
exhortations, and at length I was amazed to see strange
shadowy forms shaping themselves in the smoke.
At first they were not very distinct, but gradually
they assumed the form of human beings, and then the
blacks readily recognised them as one or other of their
long-departed chiefs estimable men always
and great fighters. The baser sort never put
in an appearance.
Now the first two or three times I
saw this weird and fantastic ceremony, I thought the
apparitions were the result of mere trickery.
But when I saw them year after year,
I came to the conclusion that they must be placed
in the category of those things which are beyond the
ken of our philosophy. I might say that no one
was allowed to approach sufficiently close to touch
the “ghosts,” if such they can
be termed; and probably even if permission had been
granted, the blacks would have been in too great a
state of terror to have availed themselves of it.
Each of these séances lasted
twenty minutes or half-an-hour, and were mainly conducted
in silence. While the apparitions were visible,
the witches remained prostrate, and the people looked
on quite spellbound. Gradually the phantoms would
melt away again in the smoke, and vanish from sight,
after which the assembly would disperse in silence.
By next morning all the invited blacks would have
gone off to their respective homes. The witches,
as I afterwards learnt, lived alone in caves; and
that they possessed wonderful powers of prophecy was
evidenced in my own case, because they told me when
I came among them that I would still be many years
with their people, but I would eventually return to
my own kind. The warriors, too, invariably consulted
these oracles before departing on hunting or fighting
expeditions, and religiously followed their advice.