“It’s only a little more
than twenty miles out to Windsor,” remarked
Mrs. Pitt, one June morning. “Suppose we
go in the motor, and then we can have a glimpse of
both Stoke Poges and Eton School, on the way.”
There were always many exclamations
of delight at mention of the “motor,”
so it was settled, and the party set out at ten o’clock,
all in the highest of spirits. It was slow and
difficult driving through the city streets, but the
English chauffeur was quite used to keeping to the
left, as well as being perfectly familiar with the
rules which govern the traffic, so he had none of
the accidents which Betty and John had prophesied
that their father’s American chauffeur would
not be able to avoid. Very soon, however, they
had reached the suburbs, and then they came into the
open country.
They could go faster now, and the
big touring-car sped over the wonderfully smooth roads
at a speed which delighted the young people.
The weather was proving a bit uncertain. Every
little while, a tiny shower descended upon them out
of a blue sky full of great white clouds, the sun
shining warm and bright all the while.
“Oh, don’t let’s
put up any umbrella,” exclaimed Betty, during
one of the showers. “Rain never seems to
do any harm in England. You don’t get wet,
and never mind it a bit. Truly, I like it, for
it’s so pretty to see it raining with the sun
out. There! now, it’s stopped again!
Just see that lovely rainbow!”
The English country is always beautiful
in its individual way, but it is especially so on
one of these showery days, when every leaf and flower
looks fresher than ever with the rain-drops glistening
on it. Now and then, they slowed down while passing
through a busy town, where pretty ladies and children
in little two-wheeled carts drove about doing the
morning marketing. Most of the way, however, lay
through country roads bordered by green-hedged fields
in which the ever-present sheep grazed; and here and
there were high brick walls over which the stately,
vine-covered homes were just visible. There were
also picturesque little workmen’s cottages at
the edge of the wood, and lodges covered with climbing-roses.
It seemed as though they had only
been riding a very short time when, upon emerging
from a shady road, they drew up at a little gateway.
John felt impatient at having to stop, and looked questioningly
around at Mrs. Pitt from his place on the front seat.
The others were already getting out, he found, and
Mrs. Pitt was saying:
“This is Stoke Poges, and I
want you to see it, for it’s such a lovely spot.
Probably you have all learned in school parts of Gray’s
‘Elegy,’ and very likely you never cared
or thought much about the poem. Even if that’s
true, you can’t possibly help loving this peaceful,
beautiful place, in which it was written.”
They were now walking along a little
path which led into the church-yard. A straight
gravel walk stretches between the graves, up to the
ancient church, which is very small, and has one tower
closely covered with ivy. The fine old Saxon
porch, and one doorway show great age; but it is in
the whole effect rather than in any detail of the
little church and its surroundings that the charm lies.
One cannot imagine a more quiet, remote spot!
On one side is the group of yew-trees which Gray mentions
in the poem, and in their shelter are the hoary stones
which mark the graves of the “rude forefathers
of the hamlet.” Standing there, one almost
hesitates to speak above a whisper for fear of arousing
something or somebody out of sleep, or of breaking
the wonderful spell of the place. Pausing under
those trees, and feasting one’s eyes upon the
lovely, rural scene, not a sound reaches the ear except
the twitter of the birds, and perhaps the faint jingle
of a cow-bell. Mrs. Pitt gave a start at the sound
of John’s voice, when he suddenly said:
“Let’s go and find Gray’s
tomb, Philip; the guidebook says it’s on the
other side of the church.”
The rest lingered for just one more
look at the little church, with its vines, and the
rich, dark-red brick-work of the moss-grown Saxon
porch, which the sun touches lovingly as it filters
through the heavy leafage of the yew-trees; then they
followed Philip and John.
Close to the outer wall of the church
is a large tomb in which Gray is buried with his beloved
mother. No word on the slab tells that the famous
poet is buried within; there is only his mother’s
epitaph, which Gray wrote, and in which he speaks
of himself as “the only child who had the misfortune
to outlive her.”
When Mrs. Pitt came up, John was standing
near the tomb with his hat off, saying, “All
right, Mr. Gray; I’ll read your poem over again
just as soon as ever I get home.”
The bustling, lively scenes of Eton
School presented a marked contrast to the quiet of
Stoke Poges. Moving about the grounds between
the different school-buildings, were dozens of boys
all dressed in the regulation Eton suit, such as Philip
himself wore. They were laughing, shouting, and
playing games, just like other boys, but such actions
somehow seemed out of keeping with their quaint costumes.
From the automobile John looked down upon them, his
eyes full of wonder and surprise.
“I suppose they are real boys,”
he said in a puzzled way, “but they don’t
look like them.”
While Philip talked with some of his
friends, and John lingered near the group, the others
visited the beautiful Eton Chapel, and were especially
interested in the familiar picture of Sir Galahad,
which hangs there. The principal buildings of
the school are ranged about two large courts; in the
center of the Outer Quadrangle is a bronze statue
of Henry VI, the founder of the school. The library
is valuable and contains some costly books and manuscripts.
Fox, Peel, Chatham, Wellington, and Shelley were Eton
boys, and the latter’s autograph may still be
seen on one of the desks.
As they left Eton and crossed the
bridge over the Thames, they duly admired the magnificent
view of Windsor Castle, which may be enjoyed from
that point. Above its many roofs and towers stands
the great round keep, the oldest part of the castle,
having been built by Edward III.
The castle is on a hill in the center
of the town, and the quaint, red-roofed houses reach
even to its walls. After passing the statue of
Queen Victoria, the automobile left the party at the
entrance to the castle, through Henry VIII’s
gateway, carved with the Tudor Rose. Inside,
they joined a party and were shown about by a guide.
They saw so many buildings that John
and Betty found it rather bewildering. In thinking
it over afterwards, certain objects remained most
clearly in their memory.
“St. George’s Chapel is
really the most beautiful thing there, of course,”
said Betty, as they rode away. “I never
saw such carving as there is on the seats no,
stalls in the choir! Henry VIII, Jane
Seymour, and poor Charles I are buried there, too.
I like those faded banners and the coats-of-arms which
belonged to the Knights of the Garter. The whole
place is lovely, I think. There are lots of little
chapels off from it, too, like Westminster Abbey; didn’t
the guide say that the tomb of Queen Victoria’s
father, the Duke of Kent, is there?”
“Yes,” answered Mrs. Pitt,
“and I hope you haven’t forgotten the
Albert Chapel. It adjoins St. George’s,
you remember, and we stood in the doorway when our
turn came and looked in. It is very old, and is
on the site of an ancient chapel of St. Edward, but
Queen Victoria made it what it is now, and restored
it in honor of her husband, Prince Albert. The
interior is truly remarkable for its fine marbles,
mosaics, sculptures, stained-glass, and precious stones.
I fancy they would not especially appeal to you, however.
How did you like the State Apartments? It was
fortunate that the Royal Family was not in residence,
so that we could be admitted.”
“Well,” began John, “they
made us hurry so that I didn’t see very much.
That guide drove us along as though we were a flock
of sheep! I liked that big room though, where
all the portraits of the generals are. They called
it the Waterloo Room, didn’t they? Anyway,
there were splendid pictures of Wellington, Metternich,
Bluecher, and lots of other fellows. Did you
see the busts of Wellington and Marlborough in one
of the other rooms, Philip? There are silk flags
which hang over both the busts, and that cross old
guide growled out that they are replaced every year
on the anniversaries of the two battles; Wellington
gets a new flag on June 18th, because of Waterloo
in 1815, and Marlborough gets his on August 13th, on
account of the battle of Blenheim in 1704.”
“In that room,” explained
Mrs. Pitt, “is where the ‘command’
theatrical performances are held. When the King
hears the report of a play which he thinks he would
like, he simply commands the company to come to him;
and if he happens to be at Windsor, he and the Court
witness the play in the Waterloo Chamber. Your
American Sousa’s Band played there once.
I saw Betty and Barbara lingering before the large
picture of Charles I and his family. I am glad
you liked it, girls, for that’s an especial
delight of mine. Dear little ‘Baby Stuart’
is so lovable! That was in the Van Dyck Room,
which contains many of that master’s works.
Those State Apartments are only for the use of Royal
guests, you understand, when they come on visits.
I always wish that we could see the King or Queen’s
private rooms, don’t you? It would be so
interesting. What’s your favorite part of
the castle, Barbara?”
“Oh, I like the terrace better
than anything else,” Barbara answered, without
a moment’s hesitation. “The view of
the valley, with the river and Eton Chapel in the
distance, is so pretty! Then, there is something
so stately and impressive about the wide, long terrace
itself. I once read that it was Queen Elizabeth’s
favorite walk, and there couldn’t be a more
appropriate place for a queen to choose. I like
that gateway with E. R. on it, showing that it was
built in Elizabeth’s reign; and it’s fun
to look up to the little bay-window which is said
to have been her room. Then I like the old Curfew
Tower, too,” she added.
“Yes,” broke in Mrs. Pitt.
“That’s one of the gloomiest parts of the
whole castle, in its history as well as in its aspect.
Of course, terrible things happened at Windsor just
as they did elsewhere; but although Windsor dates
from a very early period, and figures in the reigns
of all the sovereigns, its history contains more of
the bright and happy than of the tragic. Down
in a miserable, windowless cell in the lower part
of the Curfew Tower, it is wrongly said that Queen
Anne Boleyn was put to spend the night before her
execution, as you know, and there still remain in
the Tower some fearful instruments of torture.
The Horseshoe Cloister near there, is very ancient,
and the houses are delightfully mediaeval. Did
you look in some of the tiny windows as we passed
through? It is said that in a small hall there,
in the Horseshoe Cloister, Shakespeare’s ‘Merry
Wives of Windsor’ was first produced.”
“Who was it that the guide told
us was imprisoned near the Round Tower, and who fell
in love with a lady whom he saw walking in the gardens?
I have forgotten the names.” It was Betty
who spoke, for she had been quietly thinking over
the visit.
“That was young James of Scotland,
whom Henry V caused to be captured in time of truce,
and thrown into prison at Windsor, where he remained
almost twenty years. The English treated him kindly,
however, and he spent his time in studying and watching
the lady in the garden, who afterwards became his
queen.”
“Oh! But, really, the stables
are best of all!” exclaimed Philip, who loved
horses like a true Briton. “I do like to
go there and be shown about by one of those men in
the black suits and yellow vests, and the bright cockades
in their silk hats. Once when I was little, one
of them let me go into a stall and feed some sugar
to a splendid great horse named Black Beauty.
I wished I could do it to-day, too! All the carriages
which carry the Court ladies are stupid, I think, but
the horses and ponies are jolly!” whereupon
Philip and John went off into an animated discussion
about the horses of the Royal Stables, and how much
they envied the men who cared for them.
“Oh, what a sweet little village!”
cried Betty, jumping up excitedly, as the automobile
slowed down and entered a little narrow lane.
Chalfont St. Giles is an extremely
picturesque, old-time village. Its thatched-roofed
cottages huddle together in a beautiful green valley,
and about the edge of a pond where ducks swim, and
happy, barefooted children play. One of the old
houses is a place of interest to many, as the great
poet, John Milton, lived there after he fled from London
at the time of the plague.
The poet’s home is a most primitive
cottage with low ceilings, and a little dark room,
lighted by one casement window, in which he may have
written part of “Paradise Lost.” When
standing in that chamber, one is reminded of the well-known
picture which shows the blind Milton dictating one
of his poems to a daughter. Outside is a delightful
old-fashioned garden in which the largest and reddest
of poppies grow, and where it is said that Milton
loved to linger.
“I wish we needn’t hurry,”
sighed Mrs. Pitt, “but I’m afraid we’ll
be late to dinner. See, we are short of time
already!”
So they quickly took their seats again
for the short trip back to town, and drew their wraps
about them, as the air had grown chilly. They
all felt rather tired, and were silent as they reviewed
in mind the history and scenes of Windsor Castle,
one of the most beautiful and certainly the most famous
of English royal residences.