House-hunting all the day with Lord
B . Went again over the Hotel
Monaco, and abandoned the project of hiring it.
Saw one house newly built and freshly and beautifully
decorated, which I like, but Lord B
does not think good enough. It is in the Rue de
Matignon. It is so desirable to get into a mansion
where every thing is new and in good taste, which
is the case with the one in question, that I hope Lord
B will be satisfied with this.
Sat an hour with General d’O
who has been unwell. Never was there such a nurse
as his wife, and so he said. Illness almost loses
its irksomeness when the sick chamber is cheered by
one who is as kind as she is clever. Madame d’O
is glad we have not taken the Hotel Monaco, for she
resided in it a long time when it was occupied by her
mother, and she thinks the sleeping-rooms are confined
and gloomy.
“After serious consideration
and mature deliberation,” we have finally decided
on taking the house in the Rue de Matignon. It
will be beautiful when completed, but nevertheless
not to be compared to the Hotel Ney. The salons
de reception, are very good, and the decorations
are rich and handsome.
The large salon is separated
from the lesser by an immense plate of unsilvered
glass, which admits of the fireplaces in each room
(they are vis-a-vis) being seen, and has a
very good effect. A door on each side this large
plate of glass opens into the smaller salon.
The portion of the house allotted to me will, when
completed, be like fairy land. A salon,
destined to contain my buhl cabinets, porcelaine
de Sèvres, and rare bijouterie, opens into
a library by two glass-doors, and in the pier which
divides them is a large mirror filling up the entire
space.
In the library, that opens on a terrace,
which is to be covered with a berceau, and
converted into a garden, are two mirrors, vis-a-vis
to the two glass doors that communicate from the salon;
so that on entering this last, the effect produced
is exceedingly pretty. Another large mirror is
placed at the end of the library, and reflects the
terrace.
When my books and various treasures
are arranged in this suite I shall be very comfortably
lodged. My chambre a coucher, dressing-room,
and boudoir, are spacious, and beautifully decorated.
All this sounds well and looks well, too, yet we shall
leave the Rue de Bourbon with regret, and Lord B
now laments that we did not secure it for a long term.
Drove in the Bois de Boulogne.
A lovely day, which produced a very exhilarating effect
on my spirits. I know not whether others experience
the same pleasurable sensations that I do on a fine
day in spring, when all nature is bursting into life,
and the air and earth look joyous. My feelings
become more buoyant, my step more elastic, and all
that I love seem dearer than before. I remember
that even in childhood I was peculiarly sensible to
atmospheric influence, and I find that as I grow old
this susceptibility does not diminish.
We dined at the Rocher de Cancale
yesterday; and Counts Septeuil and Valeski composed
our party. The Rocher de Cancale is the Greenwich
of Paris; the oysters and various other kinds of fish
served up con gusto, attracting people to it,
as the white bait draw visitors to Greenwich.
Our dinner was excellent, and our party very agreeable.
A diner de restaurant is pleasant
from its novelty. The guests seem less ceremonious
and more gay; the absence of the elegance that marks
the dinner-table appointments in a maison bien montee,
gives a homeliness and heartiness to the repast; and
even the attendance of two or three ill-dressed garcons
hurrying about, instead of half-a-dozen sedate servants
in rich liveries, marshalled by a solemn-looking maitre-d’hotel
and groom of the chambers, gives a zest to the dinner
often wanted in more luxurious feasts.
The Bois de Boulogne yesterday presented
one of the gayest sights imaginable as we drove through
it, for, being Sunday, all the bourgeoisie
of Paris were promenading there, and in their holyday
dresses. And very pretty and becoming were the
said dresses, from those of the femmes de negociants,
composed of rich and tasteful materials, down to those
of the humble grisettes, who, with jaunty air
and roguish eyes, walked briskly along, casting glances
at every smart toilette they encountered, more intent
on examining the dresses than the wearers.
A good taste in dress seems innate
in Frenchwomen of every class, and a confidence in
their own attractions precludes the air of mauvaise
honte and gaucherie so continually observable
in the women of other countries, while it is so distinct
from boldness that it never offends. It was pretty
to see the gay dresses of varied colours fluttering
beneath the delicate green foliage, like rich flowers
agitated by a more than usually brisk summer’s
wind, while the foliage and the dresses are still
in their pristine purity.
The beau monde occupied the
drive in the centre, their vehicles of every description
attracting the admiration of the pedestrians, who
glanced from the well-appointed carriages, whose owners
reclined negligently back as if unwilling to be seen,
to the smart young equestrians on prancing steeds,
who caracoled past with the air half dandy and half
militaire that characterises every young Frenchman.
I am always struck in a crowd in Paris
with the soldier-like air of its male population;
and this air does not seem to be the result of study,
but sits as naturally on them as does the look, half
fierce, half mocking, that accompanies it. There
is something in the nature of a Frenchman that enables
him to become a soldier in less time than is usually
necessary to render the natives of other countries
au fait in the routine of duty, just as he
learns to dance well in a quarter of the time required
to teach them to go through a simple measure.
The Emperor Napoleon quickly observed
this peculiar predisposition to a military life in
his subjects, and took advantage of it to fool them
to the top of their bent. The victories achieved
beneath his banner reflect scarcely less honour on
them than on him, and the memory of them associates
his name in their hearts by the strongest bonds of
sympathy that can bind a Frenchman the love
of glory. A sense of duty, high discipline, and
true courage, influence our soldiers in the discharge
of their calling. They are proud of their country
and of their regiment, for the honour of which they
are ready to fight unto the death; but a Frenchman,
though proud of his country and his regiment, is still
more proud of his individual self, and, believing
that all eyes are upon him acts as if his single
arm could accomplish that which only soldiers en
masse can achieve.
A pleasant party at dinner at home
yesterday. The Marquis de Mornay, Count Valeski,
and General Ornano, were among the number.
Laughed immoderately at the naïveté of ,
who is irresistibly ludicrous.
Madame came in
the evening and sang “God save the King.”
Time was that her singing this national anthem would
have electrified the hearers, but now .
Alas! alas! that voices, like faces, should lose their
delicate flexibility and freshness, and seem but like
the faint echo of their former brilliant tones!
Does the ear of a singer, like the
eye of some has-been beauty, lose its fine
perception and become accustomed to the change in the
voice, as does the eye to that in the face, to which
it appertains, from being daily in the habit of seeing
the said face! Merciful dispensation of Providence,
which thus saves us from the horror and dismay we must
experience could we but behold ourselves as others
see us, after a lapse of years without having met;
while we, unconscious of the sad change in ourselves,
are perfectly sensible of it in them. Oh, the
misery of the mezzo termine in the journey of
life, when time robs the eyes of their lustre, the
cheeks of their roses, the mouth of its pearls, and
the heart of its gaiety, and writes harsh sentences
on brows once smooth and polished as marble!
Well a-day! ah, well
a-day!
Why fleets youth so
fast away,
Taking beauty in its
train,
Never to return again?
Well a-day! ah, well
a-day!
Why will health no longer
stay?
After youth ’t
will not remain,
Chased away by care
and pain.
Well a-day! ah, well
a-day!
Youth, health, beauty,
gone for aye,
Life itself must quickly
wane
With its thoughts and
wishes vain.
Well a-day! ah, well
a-day!
Frail and perishable
clay
That to earth our wishes
chain,
Well it is that brief’s
thy reign.
I have been reading Captain Marryat’s
Naval Officer, and think it exceedingly clever
and amusing. It is like himself, full of talent,
originality, and humour. He is an accurate observer
of life; nothing escapes him; yet there is no bitterness
in his satire and no exaggeration in his comic vein.
He is never obliged to explain to his readers why
the characters he introduces act in such or such a
manner.
They always bear out the parts he
wishes them to enact, and the whole story goes on
so naturally that one feels as if reading a narrative
of facts, instead of a work of fiction.
I have known Captain Marryat many
years, and liked him from the first; but this circumstance,
far from rendering me more indulgent to his novel,
makes me more fastidious; for I find myself at all
times more disposed to criticise the writings of persons
whom I know and like than those of strangers:
perhaps because I expect more from them, if, as in
the present case, I know them to be very clever.
Dined yesterday at the Cadran
Bleu, and went in the evening to see La Tour d’Auvergne,
a piece founded on the life, and taking its name from
a soldier of the time of the Republic. A nobler
character than that of La Tour d’Auvergne could
not be selected for a dramatic hero, and ancient times
furnish posterity with no brighter example. A
letter from Carnot, then Minister of War, addressed
to this distinguished soldier and admirable man, has
pleased me so much that I give its substance:
“On fixing my attention on the
men who reflect honour on the army, I have remarked
you, citizen, and I said to the First Consul ’La
Tour d’Auvergne Corret, descendant of the family
of Turenne, has inherited its bravery and its
virtues. One of the oldest officers in the
army, he counts the greatest number of brilliant
actions, and all the brave name him to be the
most brave. As modest as he is intrepid, he has
shewn himself anxious for glory alone, and has
refused all the grades offered to him. At
the eastern Pyrénées the General assembled all
the companies of the grenadiers, and during the remainder
of the campaign gave them no chief. The oldest
captain was to command them, and he was Latour
d’Auvergne. He obeyed, and the corps
was soon named by the enemy the Infernal Column.
“’One of his friends had
an only son, whose labour was necessary for the
support of his father, and this young man was
included in the conscription. Latour d’Auvergne,
broken down by fatigue, could not labour, but
he could still fight. He hastened to the
army of the Rhine; replaced the son of his friend;
and, during two campaigns, with his knapsack on his
hack and always in the foremost rank, he was in
every engagement, animating the grenadiers by
his discourse and by his example. Poor,
but proud, he has refused the gift of an estate
offered to him by the head of his family. Simple
in his manners, and temperate in his habits,
he lives on the limited pay of a captain.
Highly informed, and speaking several languages,
his erudition equals his courage. We are indebted
to his pen for the interesting work entitled Les
Origines Gauloises. Such rare talents
and virtues appertain to the page of history,
but to the First Consul belongs the right to
anticipate its award.’
“The First Consul, citizen, heard
this recital with the same emotions that I experienced.
He named you instantly first grenadier of the
Republic, and decreed you this sword of honour.
Salut et fraternité.”
The distinction accorded so readily
to Latour d’Auvergne by the First Consul, himself
a hero, who could better than any other contemporary
among his countrymen appreciate the glory he was called
on by Carnot to reward, was refused by the gallant
veteran.
“Among us soldiers,” said
he, “there is neither first nor last.”
He demanded, as the sole recompense of his services,
to be sent to join his old brothers-in-arms, to fight
once more with them, not as the first, but
as the oldest, soldier of the Republic.
His death was like his life, glorious;
for he fell on the field of battle at Neubourg, in
1800, mourned by the whole army, who devoted a day’s
pay to the purchase of an urn to preserve his heart,
for a niche in the Pantheon.
Another distinction, not less touching,
was accorded to his memory by the regiment in which
he served. The sergeant, in calling his names
in the muster of his company, always called Latour
d’Auvergne, and the corporal answered “Mort
au champ d’honneur.” If the history
of this hero excited the warm admiration of those
opposed to him in arms, the effect of its representation
on his compatriots may be more easily imagined than
described. Nothing could exceed the enthusiasm
it excited in their minds. Men, women, and children,
seemed electrified by it.
There is a chord in the hearts of
the French that responds instantaneously, and with
vivid emotion, to any appeal made to their national
glory; and this susceptibility constitutes the germ
so easily fructified by those who know how to cultivate
it.
Enthusiasm, if it sometimes leads
to error, or commits its votaries into the ridiculous,
also prompts and accomplishes the most glorious achievements;
and it is impossible not to feel a sympathy with its
unsophisticated demonstrations thus evinced en masse.
Civilization, more than aught else, tends to discourage
enthusiasm; and where it is pushed to the utmost degree
of perfection, there will this prompter of great deeds,
this darer of impossibilities and instigator of heroic
actions, be most rarely found.
Drove yesterday to see the villa of
the Duchesse de Montmorency, which is to be let.
The grounds are very pretty, and a portion of them
opens by iron rails to the Bois de Boulogne, which
is a great advantage. But neither the villa nor
the grounds are to be compared to the beautiful ones
in the neighbourhood of London, where, as an old French
gentleman once observed to me, “the trees seem
to take a peculiar pride and pleasure in growing.”
I have seen nothing to be compared
with the tasteful villas on green velvet lawns sloping
down to the limpid Thames, near Richmond, with umbrageous
trees bending their leafy branches to the earth and
water; or to the colonnaded mansions peeping forth
from the well-wooded grounds of Roehampton and its
vicinage.
I can remember as distinctly as if
beheld yesterday, the various tempting residences
that meet the eye in a morning drive, or in a row
on the silvery Thames, compelling the violation of
the tenth commandment, by looking so beautiful that
one imagines how happily a life might glide away in
such abodes, forgetful that in no earthly abode can
existence be passed free from the cares meant to remind
us that this is not our abiding-place.
Went to see Bagatelle yesterday with
the Duchesse de G . Here the
Duc de Bordeaux and Mademoiselle, his sister,
pass much of their time. It is a very pleasant
villa, and contains many proofs of the taste and industry
of these very interesting children, who are greatly
beloved by those who have access to them. Various
stories were related to us illustrative of their goodness
of heart and considerate kindness for those around
them; and, making all due allowance for the partiality
of the narrators, they went far to prove that these
scions of royalty are more amiable and unspoilt than
are most children of their age, and of even far less
elevated rank. “Born in sorrow, and nursed
in tears,” the Duc de Bordeaux’s
early infancy has not passed under bright auspices;
and those are not wanting who prophesy that he may
hereafter look back to the days passed at Bagatelle
as the happiest of his life.
It requires little of the prescience
of a soothsayer to make this prediction, when we reflect
that the lives of even the most popular of those born
to the dangerous inheritance of a crown must ever be
more exposed to the cares that weigh so heavily, and
the responsibility that presses so continually on
them, than are those who, exempt from the splendour
of sovereignty, escape also its toils. “Oh
happy they, the happiest of their kind,” who
enjoy, in the peace and repose of a private station,
a competency, good health, a love of, and power of
indulging in, study; an unreproaching conscience, and
a cheerful mind! With such blessings they may
contemplate, without a feeling of envy, the more brilliant
but less fortunate lots of those great ones of the
earth, whose elevation but too often serves to render
them the target at which Fortune loves aim her most
envenomed darts.
Passed the greater part of the morning
in the house in the Rue de Matignon, superintending
the alterations and improvements to be carried into
execution there. It has been found necessary to
build an additional room, which the proprietor pledges
himself can be ready for occupation in six weeks,
and already have its walls reached nearly to their
intended height. The builders seem to be as expeditious
as the upholsterers at Paris, and adding a room or
two to a mansion appears to be as easily accomplished
as adding some extra furniture.
One is made to pay dearly, however,
for this facility and expedition; for rents are extravagantly
high at Paris, as are also the prices of furniture.
Already does the terrace begin to
assume the appearance of a garden. Deep beds
of earth inclosed in green cases line the sides, and
an abundance of orange-trees, flowering shrubs, plants,
and flowers, are placed in them.
At the end of the terrace, the wall
which bounds it has been painted in fresco, with a
view of Italian scenery; and this wall forms the back
of an aviary, with a fountain that plays in the centre.
A smaller aviary, constructed of glass, is erected
on the end of the terrace, close to my library, from
the window of which I can feed my favourite birds;
and this aviary, as well as the library, is warmed
by means of a stove beneath the latter. The terrace
is covered by a lattice-work, formed into arched windows
at the side next the court: over the sides and
roof there are trailing parasitical plants. Nothing
in the new residence pleases me so much as this suite,
and the terrace attached to it.
Already do we begin to feel the unsettled
state peculiar to an intended change of abode, and
the prospect of entering a new one disturbs the sense
of enjoyment of the old. Gladly would we remain
where we are, for we prefer this hotel to any other
at Paris; but the days we have to sojourn in it are
numbered, and our regret is unavailing.