A portion of our regiment was ordered
to Oregon, to join General Howard, who was conducting
the Bannock Campaign, so I remained that summer in
San Francisco, to await my husband’s return.
I could not break away from my Arizona
habits. I wore only white dresses, partly because
I had no others which were in fashion, partly because
I had become imbued with a profound indifference to
dress.
“They’ll think you’re
a Mexican,” said my New England aunt (who regarded
all foreigners with contempt). “Let them
think,” said I; “I almost wish I were;
for, after all, they are the only people who understand
the philosophy of living. Look at the tired faces
of the women in your streets,” I added, “one
never sees that sort of expression down below, and
I have made up my mind not to be caught by the whirlpool
of advanced civilization again.”
Added to the white dresses, I smoked
cigarettes, and slept all the afternoons. I was
in the bondage of tropical customs, and I had lapsed
back into a state of what my aunt called semi-barbarism.
“Let me enjoy this heavenly
cool climate, and do not worry me,” I begged.
I shuddered when I heard people complain of the cold
winds of the San Francisco summer. How do they
dare tempt Fate, thought I, and I wished them all
in Ehrenberg or MacDowell for one summer. “I
think they might then know something about climate,
and would have something to complain about!”
How I revelled in the flowers, and
all the luxuries of that delightful city!
The headquarters of the Eighth was
located at Benicia, and General Kautz, our Colonel,
invited me to pay a visit to his wife. A pleasant
boat-trip up the Sacramento River brought us to Benicia.
Mrs. Kautz, a handsome and accomplished Austrian,
presided over her lovely army home in a manner to
captivate my fancy, and the luxury of their surroundings
almost made me speechless.
“The other side of army life,” thought
I.
A visit to Angel Island, one of the
harbor defences, strengthened this impression.
Four years of life in the southern posts of Arizona
had almost made me believe that army life was indeed
but “glittering misery,” as the Germans
had called it.
In the autumn, the troops returned
from Oregon, and C company was ordered to Camp MacDermit,
a lonely spot up in the northern part of Nevada (Nevada
being included in the Department of California).
I was sure by that time that bad luck was pursuing
us. I did not know so much about the “ins
and outs” of the army then as I do now.
At my aunt’s suggestion, I secured
a Chinaman of good caste for a servant, and by deceiving
him (also my aunt’s advice) with the idea that
we were going only as far as Sacramento, succeeded
in making him willing to accompany us.
We started east, and left the railroad
at a station called “Winnemucca.”
MacDermit lay ninety miles to the north. But at
Winnemucca the Chinaman balked. “You say:
‘All’e same Saclamento’: lis
place heap too far: me no likee!” I talked
to him, and, being a good sort, he saw that I meant
well, and the soldiers bundled him on top of the army
wagon, gave him a lot of good-natured guying, and
a revolver to keep off Indians, and so we secured
Hoo Chack.
Captain Corliss had been obliged to
go on ahead with his wife, who was in the most delicate
health. The post ambulance had met them at this
place.
Jack was to march over the ninety
miles, with the company. I watched them starting
out, the men, glad of the release from the railroad
train, their guns on their shoulders, stepping off
in military style and in good form.
The wagons followed the
big blue army wagons, and Hoo Chack, looking rather
glum, sitting on top of a pile of baggage.
I took the Silver City stage, and
except for my little boy I was the only passenger
for the most of the way. We did the ninety miles
without resting over, except for relays of horses.
I climbed up on the box and talked
with the driver. I liked these stage-drivers.
They were “nervy,” fearless men, and kind,
too, and had a great dash and go about them.
They often had a quiet and gentle bearing, but by
that time I knew pretty well what sort of stuff they
were made of, and I liked to have them talk to me,
and I liked to look out upon the world through their
eyes, and judge of things from their standpoint.
It was an easy journey, and we passed
a comfortable night in the stage.
Camp MacDermit was a colorless, forbidding
sort of a place. Only one company was stationed
there, and my husband was nearly always scouting in
the mountains north of us. The weather was severe,
and the winter there was joyless and lonesome.
The extreme cold and the loneliness affected my spirits,
and I suffered from depression.
I had no woman to talk to, for Mrs.
Corliss, who was the only other officer’s wife
at the post, was confined to the house by the most
delicate health, and her mind was wholly absorbed by
the care of her young infant. There were no nurses
to be had in that desolate corner of the earth.
One day, a dreadful looking man appeared
at the door, a person such as one never sees except
on the outskirts of civilization, and I wondered what
business brought him. He wore a long, black, greasy
frock coat, a tall hat, and had the face of a sneak.
He wanted the Chinaman’s poll-tax, he said.
“But,” I suggested, “I
never heard of collecting taxes in a Government post;
soldiers and officers do not pay taxes.”
“That may be,” he replied,
“but your Chinaman is not a soldier, and I am
going to have his tax before I leave this house.”
“So, ho,” I thought; “a
threat!” and the soldier’s blood rose in
me.
I was alone; Jack was miles away up
North. Hoo Chack appeared in the hall; he had
evidently heard the man’s last remark. “Now,”
I said, “this Chinaman is in my employ, and
he shall not pay any tax, until I find out if he be
exempt or not.”
The evil-looking man approached the
Chinaman. Hoo Chack grew a shade paler.
I fancied he had a knife under his white shirt; in
fact, he felt around for it. I said, “Hoo
Chack, go away, I will talk to this man.”
I opened the front door. “Come
with me” (to the tax-collector); “we will
ask the commanding officer about this matter.”
My heart was really in my mouth, but I returned the
man’s steady and dogged gaze, and he followed
me to Captain Corliss’ quarters. I explained
the matter to the Captain, and left the man to his
mercy. “Why didn’t you call the Sergeant
of the Guard, and have the man slapped into the guard-house?”
said Jack, when I told him about it afterwards.
“The man had no business around here; he was
trying to browbeat you into giving him a dollar, I
suppose.”
The country above us was full of desperadoes
from Boise and Silver City, and I was afraid to be
left alone so much at night; so I begged Captain Corliss
to let me have a soldier to sleep in my quarters.
He sent me old Needham. So I installed old Needham
in my guest chamber with his loaded rifle. Now
old Needham was but a wisp of a man; long years of
service had broken down his health; he was all wizened
up and feeble; but he was a soldier; I felt safe,
and could sleep once more. Just the sight of
Needham and his old blue uniform coming at night, after
taps, was a comfort to me.
Anxiety filled my soul, for Jack was
scouting in the Stein Mountains all winter in the
snow, after Indians who were avowedly hostile, and
had threatened to kill on sight. He often went
out with a small pack-train, and some Indian scouts,
five or six soldiers, and I thought it quite wrong
for him to be sent into the mountains with so small
a number.
Camp MacDermit was, as I have already
mentioned, a “one-company post.”
We all know what that may mean, on the frontier.
Our Second Lieutenant was absent, and all the hard
work of winter scouting fell upon Jack, keeping him
away for weeks at a time.
The Piute Indians were supposed to
be peaceful, and their old chief, Winnemucca, once
the warlike and dreaded foe of the white man, was now
quiet enough, and too old to fight. He lived,
with his family, at an Indian village near the post.
He came to see me occasionally.
His dress was a curious mixture of civilization and
savagery. He wore the chapeau and dress-coat of
a General of the American Army, with a large epaulette
on one shoulder. He was very proud of the coat,
because General Crook had given it to him. His
shirt, leggings and moccasins were of buckskin, and
the long braids of his coal-black hair, tied with
strips of red flannel, gave the last touch to this
incongruous costume.
But I must say that his demeanor was
gentle and dignified, and, after recovering from the
superficial impressions which his startling costume
had at first made upon my mind, I could well believe
that he had once been the war-leader, as he was now
the political head of his once-powerful tribe.
Winnemucca did not disdain to accept
some little sugar-cakes from me, and would sit down
on our veranda and munch them.
He always showed me the pasteboard
medal which hung around his neck, and which bore General
Howard’s signature; and he always said:
“General Howard tell me, me good Injun, me go
up up up” pointing
dramatically towards Heaven. On one occasion,
feeling desperate for amusement, I said to him:
“General Howard very good man, but he make a
mistake; where you go, is not up up up,
but,” pointing solemnly to the earth below us,
“down down down.”
He looked incredulous, but I assured him it was a
nice place down there.
Some of the scattered bands of the
tribe, however, were restless and unsubdued, and gave
us much trouble, and it was these bands that necessitated
the scouts.
My little son, Harry, four years old,
was my constant and only companion, during that long,
cold, and anxious winter.
My mother sent me an appealing invitation
to come home for a year. I accepted gladly, and
one afternoon in May, Jack put us aboard the Silver
City stage, which passed daily through the post.
Our excellent Chinese servant promised
to stay with the “Captain” and take care
of him, and as I said “Good-bye, Hoo Chack,”
I noticed an expression of real regret on his usually
stolid features.
Occupied with my thoughts, on entering
the stage, I did not notice the passengers or the
man sitting next me on the back seat. Darkness
soon closed around us, and I suppose we fell asleep.
Between naps, I heard a queer clanking sound, but
supposed it was the chains of the harness or the stage-coach
gear. The next morning, as we got out at a relay
station for breakfast, I saw the handcuffs on the
man next to whom I had sat all the night long.
The sheriff was on the box outside. He very obligingly
changed seats with me for the rest of the way, and
evening found us on the overland train speeding on
our journey East. Camp MacDermit with its dreary
associations and surroundings faded gradually from
my mind, like a dream.
The year of 1879 brought us several
changes. My little daughter was born in mid-summer
at our old home in Nantucket. As I lay watching
the curtains move gently to and fro in the soft sea-breezes,
and saw my mother and sister moving about the room,
and a good old nurse rocking my baby in her arms,
I could but think of those other days at Camp Apache,
when I lay through the long hours, with my new-born
baby by my side, watching, listening for some one
to come in. There was no one, no woman to come,
except the poor hard-working laundress of the cavalry,
who did come once a day to care for the baby.
Ah! what a contrast! and I had to
shut my eyes for fear I should cry, at the mere thought
of those other days.
Jack took a year’s leave of
absence and joined me in the autumn at Nantucket,
and the winter was spent in New York, enjoying the
theatres and various amusements we had so long been
deprived of. Here we met again Captain Porter
and Carrie Wilkins, who was now Mrs. Porter. They
were stationed at David’s Island, one of the
harbor posts, and we went over to see them. “Yes,”
he said, “as Jacob waited seven years for Rachel,
so I waited for Carrie.”
The following summer brought us the
good news that Captain Corliss’ company was
ordered to Angel Island, in the bay of San Francisco.
“Thank goodness,” said Jack, “C
company has got some good luck, at last!”
Joyfully we started back on the overland
trip to California, which took about nine days at
that time. Now, travelling with a year-old baby
and a five-year-old boy was quite troublesome, and
we were very glad when the train had crossed the bleak
Sierras and swept down into the lovely valley of the
Sacramento.
Arriving in San Francisco, we went
to the old Occidental Hotel, and as we were going
in to dinner, a card was handed to us. “Hoo
Chack” was the name on the card. “That
Chinaman!” I cried to Jack. “How do
you suppose he knew we were here?”
We soon made arrangements for him
to accompany us to Angel Island, and in a few days
this “heathen Chinee” had unpacked all
our boxes and made our quarters very comfortable.
He was rather a high-caste man, and as true and loyal
as a Christian. He never broke his word, and he
staid with us as long as we remained in California.
And now we began to live, to truly
live; for we felt that the years spent at those desert
posts under the scorching suns of Arizona had cheated
us out of all but a bare existence upon earth.
The flowers ran riot in our garden,
fresh fruits and vegetables, fresh fish, and all the
luxuries of that marvellous climate, were brought to
our door.
A comfortable Government steamboat
plied between San Francisco and its harbor posts,
and the distance was not great only three
quarters of an hour. So we had a taste of the
social life of that fascinating city, and could enjoy
the theatres also.
On the Island, we had music and dancing,
as it was the headquarters of the regiment. Mrs.
Kautz, so brilliant and gay, held grand court here receptions,
military functions, lawn tennis, bright uniforms, were
the order of the day. And that incomparable climate!
How I revelled in it! When the fog rolled in
from the Golden Gate, and enveloped the great city
of Saint Francis in its cold vapors, the Island of
the Angels lay warm and bright in the sunshine.
The old Spaniards named it well, and
the old Nantucket whalers who sailed around Cape Horn
on their way to the Ar’tic, away back in the
eighteen twenties, used to put in near there for water,
and were well familiar with its bright shores, before
it was touched by man’s handiwork.
Was there ever such an emerald green
as adorned those hills which sloped down to the bay?
Could anything equal the fields of golden escholzchia
which lay there in the sunshine? Or the blue masses
of “baby-eye,” which opened in the mornings
and held up their pretty cups to catch the dew?
Was this a real Paradise?
It surely seemed so to us; and, as
if Nature had not done enough, the Fates stepped in
and sent all the agreeable young officers of the regiment
there, to help us enjoy the heavenly spot.
There was Terrett, the handsome and
aristocratic young Baltimorean, one of the finest
men I ever saw in uniform; and Richardson, the stalwart
Texan, and many others, with whom we danced and played
tennis, and altogether there was so much to do and
to enjoy that Time rushed by and we knew only that
we were happy, and enchanted with Life.
Did any uniform ever equal that of
the infantry in those days? The dark blue, heavily
braided “blouse,” the white stripe on the
light blue trousers, the jaunty cap? And then,
the straight backs and the slim lines of those youthful
figures! It seems to me any woman who was not
an Egyptian mummy would feel her heart thrill and
her blood tingle at the sight of them.
Indians and deserts and Ehrenberg
did not exist for me any more. My girlhood seemed
to have returned, and I enjoyed everything with the
keenest zest.
My old friend Charley Bailey, who
had married for his second wife a most accomplished
young San Francisco girl, lived next door to us.
General and Mrs. Kautz entertained
so hospitably, and were so beloved by all. Together
Mrs. Kautz and I read the German classics, and went
to the German theatre; and by and by a very celebrated
player, Friedrich Haase, from the Royal Theatre of
Berlin, came to San Francisco. We never missed
a performance, and when his tour was over, Mrs. Kautz
gave a lawn party at Angel Island for him and a few
of the members of his company. It was charming.
I well remember how the sun shone that day, and, as
we strolled up from the boat with them, Frau Haase
stopped, looked at the blue sky, the lovely clouds,
the green slopes of the Island and said: “Mein
Gott! Frau Summerhayes, was ist das
fur ein Paradies! Warum haben
Sie uns nicht gesagt, Sie
wohnten im Paradies!”
So, with music and German speech,
and strolls to the North and to the South Batteries,
that wonderful and never to-be-forgotten day with the
great Friedrich Haase came to an end.
The months flew by, and the second
winter found us still there; we heard rumors of Indian
troubles in Arizona, and at last the orders came.
The officers packed away their evening clothes in
camphor and had their campaign clothes put out to
air, and got their mess-chests in order, and the post
was alive with preparations for the field. All
the families were to stay behind. The most famous
Indian renegade was to be hunted down, and serious
fighting was looked for.
At last all was ready, and the day
was fixed for the departure of the troops.
The winter rains had set in, and the
skies were grey, as the command marched down to the
boat.
The officers and soldiers were in
their campaign clothes; the latter had their blanket-rolls
and haversacks slung over their shoulders, and their
tin cups, which hung from the haversacks, rattled and
jingled as they marched down in even columns of four,
over the wet and grassy slopes of the parade ground,
where so short a time before all had been glitter and
sunshine.
I realized then perhaps for the first
time what the uniform really stood for; that every
man who wore it, was going out to fight that
they held their lives as nothing. The glitter
was all gone; nothing but sad reality remained.
The officers’ wives and the
soldiers’ wives followed the troops to the dock.
The soldiers marched single file over the gang-plank
of the boat, the officers said good-bye, the shrill
whistle of the “General McPherson” sounded and
they were off. We leaned back against the coal-sheds,
and soldiers’ and officers’ wives alike
all wept together.
And now a season of gloom came upon
us. The skies were dull and murky and the rain
poured down.
Our old friend Bailey, who was left
behind on account of illness, grew worse and finally
his case was pronounced hopeless. His death added
to the deep gloom and sadness which enveloped us all.
A few of the soldiers who had staid
on the Island to take care of the post, carried poor
Bailey to the boat, his casket wrapped in the flag
and followed by a little procession of women.
I thought I had never seen anything so sad.
The campaign lengthened out into months,
but the California winters are never very long, and
before the troops came back the hills looked their
brightest green again. The campaign had ended
with no very serious losses to our troops and all
was joyous again, until another order took us from
the sea-coast to the interior once more.