THE CANOE ASCENDING THE
RAPIDS-THE PORTAGE-DEER-SHOOTING,
AND LIFE IN THE WOODS.
We must now beg the patient reader
to take a leap with us, not only through space, but
also through time. We must pass over the events
of the remainder of the journey along the shore of
Lake Winnipeg. Unwilling though we are to omit
anything in the history of our friends that would
be likely to prove interesting, we think it wise not
to run the risk of being tedious, or of dwelling too
minutely on the details of scenes which recall powerfully
the feelings and memories of bygone days to the writer,
but may nevertheless appear somewhat flat to the reader.
We shall not, therefore, enlarge at
present on the arrival of the boats at Norway House,
which lies at the north end of the lake, nor on what
was said and done by our friends and by several other
young comrades whom they found there. We shall
not speak of the horror of Harry Somerville, and the
extreme disappointment of his friend Charley Kennedy,
when the former was told that, instead of hunting grizzly
bears up the Saskatchewan, he was condemned to the
desk again at York Fort, the depot on Hudson’s
Bay-a low, swampy place near the seashore,
where the goods for the interior are annually landed
and the furs shipped for England, where the greater
part of the summer and much of the winter is occupied
by the clerks who may be doomed to vegetate there in
making up the accounts of what is termed the Northern
Department, and where the brigades converge from all
the wide-scattered and far-distant outposts, and the
ship from England-that great event
of the year-arrives, keeping the place
in a state of constant bustle and effervescence until
autumn, when ship and brigades finally depart, leaving
the residents (about thirty in number) shut up for
eight long, dreary months of winter, with a tenantless
wilderness around and behind them, and the wide, cold,
frozen sea before. This was among the first of
Harry’s disappointments. He suffered many
afterwards, poor fellow!
Neither shall we accompany Charley
up the south branch of the Saskatchewan, where his
utmost expectations in the way of hunting were more
than realised, and where he became so accustomed to
shooting ducks and geese, and bears and buffaloes,
that he could not forbear smiling when he chanced
to meet with a red-legged gull, and remembered how
he and his friend Harry had comported themselves when
they first met with these birds on the shores of Lake
Winnipeg! We shall pass over all this, and the
summer, autumn, and winter too, and leap at once into
the spring of the following year.
On a very bright, cheery morning of
that spring, a canoe might have been seen slowly ascending
one of the numerous streams which meander through
a richly-wooded, fertile country, and mingle their
waters with those of the Athabasca River, terminating
their united career in a large lake of the same name.
The canoe was small-one of the kind used
by the natives while engaged in hunting, and capable
of holding only two persons conveniently, with their
baggage. To any one unacquainted with the nature
or capabilities of a northern Indian canoe, the fragile,
bright orange-coloured machine that was battling with
the strong current of a rapid must indeed have appeared
an unsafe and insignificant craft; but a more careful
study of its performances in the rapid, and of the
immense quantity of miscellaneous goods and chattels
which were, at a later period of the day, disgorged
from its interior, would have convinced the beholder
that it was in truth the most convenient and serviceable
craft that could be devised for the exigencies of
such a country.
True, it could only hold two men (it
might have taken three at a pinch), because
men, and women too, are awkward, unyielding baggage,
very difficult to stow compactly; but it is otherwise
with tractable goods. The canoe is exceedingly
thin, so that no space is taken up or rendered useless
by its own structure, and there is no end to the amount
of blankets, and furs, and coats, and paddles, and
tent-covers, and dogs, and babies, that can be stowed
away in its capacious interior. The canoe of
which we are now writing contained two persons, whose
active figures were thrown alternately into every graceful
attitude of manly vigour, as with poles in hand they
struggled to force their light craft against the boiling
stream. One was a man apparently of about forty-five
years of age. He was a square-shouldered, muscular
man, and from the ruggedness of his general appearance,
the soiled hunting-shirt that was strapped round his
waist with a parti-coloured worsted belt, the leather
leggings, a good deal the worse for wear, together
with the quiet, self-possessed glance of his grey
eye, the compressed lip and sunburned brow, it was
evident that he was a hunter, and one who had seen
rough work in his day. The expression of his
face was pleasing, despite a look of habitual severity
which sat upon it, and a deep scar which traversed
his brow from the right temple to the top of his nose.
It was difficult to tell to what country he belonged.
His father was a Canadian, his mother a Scotchwoman.
He was born in Canada, brought up in one of the Yankee
settlements on the Missouri, and had, from a mere
youth, spent his life as a hunter in the wilderness.
He could speak English, French, or Indian with equal
ease and fluency, but it would have been hard for
any one to say which of the three was his native tongue.
The younger man, who occupied the stern of the canoe,
acting the part of steersman, was quite a youth, apparently
about seventeen, but tall and stout beyond his years,
and deeply sunburned. Indeed, were it not for
this fact, the unusual quantity of hair that hung in
massive curls down his neck, and the voyageur costume,
we should have recognised our young friend Charley
Kennedy again more easily. Had any doubts remained
in our mind, the shout of his merry voice would have
scattered them at once.
“Hold hard, Jacques!”
he cried, as the canoe trembled in the current; “one
moment, till I get my pole fixed behind this rock.
Now then, shove ahead. Ah!” he exclaimed,
with chagrin, as the pole slipped on the treacherous
bottom and the canoe whirled round.
“Mind the rock,” cried
the bowsman, giving an energetic thrust with his pole,
that sent the light bark into an eddy formed by a large
rock which rose above the turbulent waters.
Here it rested while Jacques and Charley raised themselves
on their knees (travellers in small canoes always
sit in a kneeling position) to survey the rapid.
“It’s too much for us,
I fear, Mr Charles,” said Jacques, shading his
brow with his horny hand. “I’ve paddled
up it many a time alone, but never saw the water so
big as now.”
“Humph! we shall have to make
a portage, then, I presume. Could we not give
it one trial more? I think we might make a dash
for the tail of that eddy, and then the stream above
seems not quite so strong. Do you think so,
Jacques?”
Jacques was not the man to check a
daring young spirit. His motto through life
had ever been, “Never venture, never win,”-a
sentiment which his intercourse among fur-traders
had taught him to embody in the pithy expression,
“Never say die;” so that, although quite
satisfied that the thing was impossible, he merely
replied to his companion’s speech by an assenting
“Ho,” and pushed out again into the stream.
An energetic effort enabled them to gain the tail
of the eddy spoken of, when Charley’s pole snapped
across, and falling heavily on the gunwale, he would
have upset the little craft, had not Jacques, whose
wits were habitually on the qui vive, thrown
his own weight at the same moment on the opposite
side, and counterbalanced Charley’s slip.
The action saved them a ducking; but the canoe, being
left to its own devices for an instant, whirled off
again into the stream, and before Charley could seize
a paddle to prevent it, they were floating in the still
water at the foot of the rapids.
“Now, isn’t that a bore?”
said Charley, with a comical look of disappointment
at his companion.
Jacques laughed.
“It was well to try,
master. I mind a young clerk who came into these
parts the same year as I did, and he seldom
tried anything. He couldn’t abide
canoes. He didn’t want for courage neither;
but he had a nat’ral dislike to them, I suppose,
that he couldn’t help, and never entered one
except when he was obliged to do so. Well, one
day he wounded a grizzly bear on the banks o’
the Saskatchewan (mind the tail o’ that rapid,
Mr Charles; we’ll land t’other side o’
yon rock). Well, the bear made after him, and
he cut stick right away for the river, where there
was a canoe hauled up on the bank. He didn’t
take time to put his rifle aboard, but dropped it
on the gravel, crammed the canoe into the water and
jumped in, almost driving his feet through its bottom
as he did so, and then plumped down so suddenly, to
prevent its capsizing, that he split it right across.
By this time the bear was at his heels, and took
the water like a duck. The poor clerk, in his
hurry, swayed from side to side tryin’ to prevent
the canoe goin’ over. But when he went
to one side, he was so unused to it that he went too
far, and had to jerk over to the other pretty sharp;
and so he got worse and worse, until he heard the
bear give a great snort beside him. Then he
grabbed the paddle in desperation, but at the first
dash he missed his stroke, and over he went.
The current was pretty strong at the place, which
was lucky for him, for it kept him down a bit, so that
the bear didn’t observe him for a little; and
while it was pokin’ away at the canoe, he was
carried downstream like a log and stranded on a shallow.
Jumping up, he made tracks for the wood, and the bear
(which had found out its mistake) after him; so he
was obliged at last to take to a tree, where the beast
watched him for a day and a night, till his friends,
thinking that something must be wrong, sent out to
look for him. (Steady, now, Mr Charles; a little
more to the right. That’s it.) Now, if
that young man had only ventured boldly into small
canoes when he got the chance, he might have laughed
at the grizzly and killed him too.”
As Jacques finished, the canoe glided
into a quiet bay formed by an eddy of the rapid, where
the still water was overhung by dense foliage.
“Is the portage a long one?”
asked Charley, as he stepped out on the bank, and
helped to unload the canoe.
“About half a mile,” replied
his companion. “We might make it shorter
by poling up the last rapid; but it’s stiff work,
Mr Charles, and we’ll do the thing quicker and
easier at one lift.”
The two travellers now proceeded to
make a portage. They prepared to carry their
canoe and baggage overland, so as to avoid a succession
of rapids and waterfalls which intercepted their further
progress.
“Now, Jacques, up with it,”
said Charley, after the loading had been taken out
and placed on the grassy bank.
The hunter stooped, and seizing the
canoe by its centre bar, lifted it out of the water,
placed it on his shoulders, and walked off with it
into the woods. This was not accomplished by
the man’s superior strength. Charley could
have done it quite as well; and, indeed, the strong
hunter could have carried a canoe of twice the size
with perfect ease. Immediately afterwards Charley
followed with as much of the lading as he could carry,
leaving enough on the bank to form another load.
The banks of the river were steep-in
some places so much so that Jacques found it a matter
of no small difficulty to climb over the broken rocks
with the unwieldy canoe on his back; the more so that
the branches interlaced overhead so thickly as to
present a strong barrier, through which the canoe
had to be forced, at the risk of damaging its delicate
bark covering. On reaching the comparatively
level land above, however, there was more open space,
and the hunter threaded his way among the tree stems
more rapidly, making a detour occasionally to avoid
a swamp or piece of broken ground; sometimes descending
a deep gorge formed by a small tributary of the stream
they were ascending, and which, to an unpractised
eye, would have appeared almost impassable, even without
the encumbrance of a canoe. But the said canoe
never bore Jacques more gallantly or safely over the
surges of lake or stream than did he bear it
through the intricate mazes of the forest; now diving
down and disappearing altogether in the umbrageous
foliage of a dell; anon reappearing on the other side
and scrambling up the bank on all-fours, he and the
canoe together looking like some frightful yellow
reptile of antediluvian proportions; and then speeding
rapidly forward over a level plain until he reached
a sheet of still water above the rapids. Here
he deposited his burden on the grass, and halting only
for a few seconds to carry a few drops of the clear
water to his lips, retraced his steps to bring over
the remainder of the baggage. Soon afterwards
Charley made his appearance on the spot where the canoe
was left, and throwing down his load, seated himself
on it and surveyed the prospect. Before him
lay a reach of the stream, which spread out so widely
as to resemble a small lake, in whose clear, still
bosom were reflected the overhanging foliage of graceful
willows, and here and there the bright stem of a silver
birch, whose light-green leaves contrasted well with
scattered groups and solitary specimens of the spruce
fir. Reeds and sedges grew in the water along
the banks, rendering the junction of the land and
the stream uncertain and confused. All this
and a great deal more Charley noted at a glance; for
the hundreds of beautiful and interesting objects in
nature that take so long to describe even partially,
and are feebly set forth after all even by the most
graphic language, flash upon the eye in all
their force and beauty, and are drunk in at once in
a single glance.
But Charley noted several objects
floating on the water which we have not yet mentioned.
These were five grey geese feeding among the reeds
at a considerable distance off, and all unconscious
of the presence of a human foe in their remote domains.
The travellers had trusted very much to their guns
and nets for food, having only a small quantity of
pemmican in reserve, lest these should fail-an
event which was not at all likely, as the country
through which they passed was teeming with wild-fowl
of all kinds, besides deer. These latter, however,
were only shot when they came inadvertently within
rifle-range, as our voyageurs had a definite object
in view, and could not afford to devote much of their
time to the chase.
During the day previous to that on
which we have introduced them to our readers, Charley
and his companion had been so much occupied in navigating
their frail bark among a succession of rapids, that
they had not attended to the replenishing of their
larder, so that the geese which now showed themselves
were looked upon by Charley with a longing eye.
Unfortunately they were feeding on the opposite side
of the river, and out of shot. But Charley was
a hunter now, and knew how to overcome slight difficulties.
He first cut down a pretty large and leafy branch
of a tree, and placed it in the bow of the canoe in
such a way as to hang down before it and form a perfect
screen, through the interstices of which he could
see the geese, while they could only see, what was
to them no novelty, the branch of a tree floating
down the stream. Having gently launched the
canoe, Charley was soon close to the unsuspecting
birds, from among which he selected one that appeared
to be unusually complacent and self-satisfied, concluding
at once, with an amount of wisdom that bespoke him
a true philosopher, that such must as a matter
of course be the fattest.
“Bang” went the gun, and
immediately the sleek goose turned round upon its
back and stretched out its feet towards the sky, waving
them once or twice as if bidding adieu to its friend.
The others thereupon took to flight, with such a
deal of sputter and noise as made it quite apparent
that their astonishment was unfeigned. Bang went
the gun again, and down fell a second goose.
“Ha!” exclaimed Jacques,
throwing down the remainder of the cargo as Charley
landed with his booty, “that’s well.
I was just thinking as I comed across that we should
have to take to pemmican to-night.”
“Well, Jacques, and if we had,
I’m sure an old hunter like you, who have roughed
it so often, need not complain,” said Charley,
smiling.
“As to that, master,”
replied Jacques, “I’ve roughed it often
enough; and when it does come to a clear fix, I can
eat my shoes without grumblin’ as well as any
man. But, you see, fresh meat is better than
dried meat when it’s to be had; and so I’m
glad to see that you’ve been lucky, Mr Charles.”
“To say truth, so am I; and
these fellows are delightfully plump. But you
spoke of eating your shoes, Jacques; when were you
reduced to that direful extremity?”
Jacques finished reloading the canoe
while they conversed, and the two were seated in their
places, and quietly but swiftly ascending the stream
again, ere the hunter replied.
“You’ve heerd of Sir John
Franklin, I s’pose?” he inquired, after
a minute’s consideration.
“Yes, often.”
“An’ p’r’aps
you’ve heerd tell of his first trip of discovery
along the shores of the Polar Sea?”
“Do you refer to the time when
he was nearly starved to death, and when poor Hood
was shot by the Indian?”
“The same,” said Jacques.
“Oh yes; I know all about that.
Were you with them?” inquired Charley, in great
surprise.
“Why, no-not exactly
on the trip; but I was sent in winter with
provisions to them-and much need they had
of them, poor fellows! I found them tearing
away at some old parchment skins that had lain under
the snow all winter, and that an Injin’s dog
would ha’ turned up his nose at-and
they don’t turn up their snouts at many things,
I can tell ye. Well, after we had left all our
provisions with them, we started for the fort again,
just keepin’ as much as would drive off starvation;
for, you see, we thought that surely we would git something
on the road. But neither hoof nor feather did
we see all the way (I was travellin’ with an
Injin), and our grub was soon done, though we saved
it up, and only took a mouthful or two the last three
days. At last it was done, and we was pretty
well used up, and the fort two days ahead of us. So
says I to my comrade-who had been looking
at me for some time as if he thought that a cut off
my shoulder wouldn’t be a bad thing-says
I, `Nipitabo, I’m afeard the shoes must go for
it now;’ so with that I pulls out a pair o’
deerskin moccasins. `They looks tender,’ said
I, trying to be cheerful. `Wah!’ said the Injin;
and then I held them over the fire till they was done
black, and Nipitabo ate one, and I ate the tother,
with a lump o’ snow to wash it down!”
“It must have been rather dry
eating,” said Charley, laughing.
“Rayther; but it was better
than the Injin’s leather breeches, which we
took in hand next day. They was uncommon
tough, and very dirty, havin’ been worn about
a year and a half. Hows’ever, they kept
us up; an’ as we only ate the legs, he had the
benefit o’ the stump to arrive with at the fort
next day.”
“What’s yon ahead?”
exclaimed Charley, pausing as he spoke, and shading
his eyes with his hand.
“It’s uncommon like trees,”
said Jacques. “It’s likely a tree
that’s been tumbled across the river; and from
its appearance, I think we’ll have to cut through
it.”
“Cut through it!” exclaimed
Charley; “if my sight is worth a gun-flint,
we’ll have to cut through a dozen trees.”
Charley was right. The river
ahead of them became rapidly narrower; and, either
from the looseness of the surrounding soil or the passing
of a whirlwind, dozens of trees had been upset, and
lay right across the narrow stream in terrible confusion.
What made the thing worse was that the banks on either
side, which were low and flat, were covered with such
a dense thicket down to the water’s edge, that
the idea of making a portage to overcome the barrier
seemed altogether hopeless.
“Here’s a pretty business,
to be sure!” cried Charley, in great disgust.
“Never say die, Mister Charles,”
replied Jacques, taking up the axe from the bottom
of the canoe; “it’s quite clear that cuttin’
through the trees is easier than cuttin’ through
the bushes, so here goes.”
For fully three hours the travellers
were engaged in cutting their way up the encumbered
stream, during which time they did not advance three
miles; and it was evening ere they broke down the last
barrier and paddled out into a sheet of clear water
again.
“That’ll prepare us for
the geese, Jacques,” said Charley, as he wiped
the perspiration from his brow; “there’s
nothing like warm work for whetting the appetite and
making one sleep soundly.”
“That’s true,” replied
the hunter, resuming his paddle. “I often
wonder how them white-faced fellows in the settlements
manage to keep body and soul together-a-sittin’,
as they do, all day in the house, and a-lyin’
all night in a feather bed. For my part, rather
than live as they do, I would cut my way up streams
like them we’ve just passed every day and all
day, and sleep on top of a flat rock o’ nights,
under the blue sky, all my life through.”
With this decided expression of his
sentiments, the stout hunter steered the canoe up
alongside of a huge, flat rock, as if he were bent
on giving a practical illustration of the latter part
of his speech then and there.
“We’d better camp now,
Mister Charles; there’s a portage o’ two
miles here, and it’ll take us till sundown to
get the canoe and things over.”
“Be it so,” said Charley,
landing. “Is there a good place at the
other end to camp on?”
“First-rate. It’s
smooth as a blanket on the turf, and a clear spring
bubbling at the root of a wide tree that would keep
off the rain if it was to come down like waterspouts.”
The spot on which the travellers encamped
that evening overlooked one of those scenes in which
vast extent, and rich, soft variety of natural objects,
were united with much that was grand and savage.
It filled the mind with the calm satisfaction that
is experienced when one gazes on the wide lawns studded
with noble trees; the spreading fields of waving grain
that mingle with stream and copse, rock and dell, vineyard
and garden, of the cultivated lands of civilised men:
while it produced that exulting throb of freedom which
stirs man’s heart to its centre, when he casts
a first glance over miles and miles of broad lands
that are yet unowned, unclaimed; that yet lie in the
unmutilated beauty with which the beneficent Creator
originally clothed them-far away from the
well-known scenes of man’s chequered history;
entirely devoid of those ancient monuments of man’s
power and skill that carry the mind back with feelings
of awe to bygone ages, yet stamped with evidences of
an antiquity more ancient still, in the wild primeval
forests, and the noble trees that have sprouted, and
spread, and towered in their strength for centuries-trees
that have fallen at their posts, while others took
their place, and rose and fell as they did, like long-lived
sentinels whose duty it was to keep perpetual guard
over the vast solitudes of the great American Wilderness.
The fire was lighted, and the canoe
turned bottom up in front of it, under the branches
of a spreading tree that stood on an eminence, whence
was obtained a bird’s-eye view of the noble scene.
It was a flat valley, on either side of which rose
two ranges of hills, which were clothed to the top
with trees of various kinds, the plain of the valley
itself being dotted with clumps of wood, among which
the fresh green foliage of the plane tree and the
silver-stemmed birch were conspicuous, giving an airy
lightness to the scene and enhancing the picturesque
effect of the dark pines. A small stream could
be traced winding out and in among clumps of willows,
reflecting their drooping boughs and the more sombre
branches of the spruce fir and the straight larch,
with which in many places its banks were shaded.
Here and there were stretches of clearer ground,
where the green herbage of spring gave to it a lawn-like
appearance, and the whole magnificent scene was bounded
by blue hills that became fainter as they receded from
the eye and mingled at last with the horizon.
The sun had just set, and a rich glow of red bathed
the whole scene, which was further enlivened by flocks
of wild-fowls and herds of reindeer.
These last soon drew Charley’s
attention from the contemplation of the scenery, and
observing a deer feeding in an open space, towards
which he could approach without coming between it
and the wind, he ran for his gun and hurried into
the woods, while Jacques busied himself in arranging
their blankets under the upturned canoe, and in preparing
supper.
Charley discovered, soon after starting,
what all hunters discover sooner or later-namely,
that appearances are deceitful; for he no sooner reached
the foot of the hill than he found, between him and
the lawn-like country, an almost impenetrable thicket
of underwood. Our young hero, however, was of
that disposition which sticks at nothing, and instead
of taking time to search for an opening, he took a
race and sprang into the middle of it, in hopes of
forcing his way through. His hopes were not
disappointed. He got through-quite
through-and alighted up to the armpits
in a swamp, to the infinite consternation of a flock
of teal ducks that were slumbering peacefully there
with their heads under their wings, and had evidently
gone to bed for the night. Fortunately he held
his gun above the water and kept his balance, so that
he was able to proceed with a dry charge, though with
an uncommonly wet skin. Half an hour brought
Charley within range, and watching patiently until
the animal presented his side towards the place of
his concealment, he fired and shot it through the
heart.
“Well done, Mister Charles,”
exclaimed Jacques, as the former staggered into camp
with the reindeer on his shoulders. “A
fat doe, too.”
“Ay,” said Charley; “but
she has cost me a wet skin. So pray, Jacques,
rouse up the fire, and let’s have supper as soon
as you can.”
Jacques speedily skinned the deer,
cut a couple of steaks from its flank, and placing
them on wooden spikes, stuck them up to roast, while
his young friend put on a dry shirt, and hung his coat
before the blaze. The goose which had been shot
earlier in the day was also plucked, split open, impaled
in the same manner as the steaks, and set up to roast.
By this time the shadows of night had deepened, and
ere long all was shrouded in gloom, except the circle
of ruddy light around the camp fire, in the centre
of which Jacques and Charley sat, with the canoe at
their backs, knives in their hands, and the two spits,
on the top of which smoked their ample supper, planted
in the ground before them.
One by one the stars went out, until
none were visible except the bright, beautiful morning
star, as it rose higher and higher in the eastern
sky. One by one the owls and the wolves, ill-omened
birds and beasts of night, retired to rest in the
dark recesses of the forest. Little by little
the grey dawn overspread the sky, and paled the lustre
of the morning star, until it faded away altogether;
and then Jacques awoke with a start, and throwing
out his arm, brought it accidentally into violent
contact with Charley’s nose.
This caused Charley to awake, not
only with a start, but also with a roar, which brought
them both suddenly into a sitting posture, in which
they continued for some time in a state between sleeping
and waking, their faces meanwhile expressive of mingled
imbecility and extreme surprise. Bursting into
a simultaneous laugh, which degenerated into a loud
yawn, they sprang up, launched and reloaded their canoe,
and resumed their journey.