We had our swim before sundown, and
while we were cooking our supper the oblique rays
of light made a dazzling glare on the white sand about
us. The translucent red ball itself sank behind
the brown stretches of corn field as we sat down to
eat, and the warm layer of air that had rested over
the water and our clean sand-bar grew fresher and
smelled of the rank ironweed and sunflowers growing
on the flatter shore. The river was brown and
sluggish, like any other of the half-dozen streams
that water the Nebraska corn lands. On one shore
was an irregular line of bald clay bluffs where a few
scrub-oaks with thick trunks and flat, twisted tops
threw light shadows on the long grass. The western
shore was low and level, with corn fields that stretched
to the sky-line, and all along the water’s edge
were little sandy coves and beaches where slim cottonwoods
and willow saplings flickered.
The turbulence of the river in spring-time
discouraged milling, and, beyond keeping the old red
bridge in repair, the busy farmers did not concern
themselves with the stream; so the Sandtown boys were
left in undisputed possession. In the autumn we
hunted quail through the miles of stubble and fodder
land along the flat shore, and, after the winter skating
season was over and the ice had gone out, the spring
freshets and flooded bottoms gave us our great excitement
of the year. The channel was never the same for
two successive seasons. Every spring the swollen
stream undermined a bluff to the east, or bit out
a few acres of corn field to the west and whirled
the soil away to deposit it in spumy mud banks somewhere
else. When the water fell low in midsummer, new
sand-bars were thus exposed to dry and whiten in the
August sun. Sometimes these were banked so firmly
that the fury of the next freshet failed to unseat
them; the little willow seedlings emerged triumphantly
from the yellow froth, broke into spring leaf, shot
up into summer growth, and with their mesh of roots
bound together the moist sand beneath them against
the batterings of another April. Here and there
a cottonwood soon glittered among them, quivering
in the low current of air that, even on breathless
days when the dust hung like smoke above the wagon
road, trembled along the face of the water.
It was on such an island, in the third
summer of its yellow green, that we built our watch-fire;
not in the thicket of dancing willow wands, but on
the level terrace of fine sand which had been added
that spring; a little new bit of world, beautifully
ridged with ripple marks, and strewn with the tiny
skeletons of turtles and fish, all as white and dry
as if they had been expertly cured. We had been
careful not to mar the freshness of the place, although
we often swam out to it on summer evenings and lay
on the sand to rest.
This was our last watch-fire of the
year, and there were reasons why I should remember
it better than any of the others. Next week the
other boys were to file back to their old places in
the Sandtown High School, but I was to go up to the
Divide to teach my first country school in the Norwegian
district. I was already homesick at the thought
of quitting the boys with whom I had always played;
of leaving the river, and going up into a windy plain
that was all windmills and corn fields and big pastures;
where there was nothing wilful or unmanageable in
the landscape, no new islands, and no chance of unfamiliar
birds such as often followed the watercourses.
Other boys came and went and used
the river for fishing or skating, but we six were
sworn to the spirit of the stream, and we were friends
mainly because of the river. There were the two
Hassler boys, Fritz and Otto, sons of the little German
tailor. They were the youngest of us; ragged
boys of ten and twelve, with sunburned hair, weather-stained
faces, and pale blue eyes. Otto, the elder, was
the best mathematician in school, and clever at his
books, but he always dropped out in the spring term
as if the river could not get on without him.
He and Fritz caught the fat, horned catfish and sold
them about the town, and they lived so much in the
water that they were as brown and sandy as the river
itself.
There was Percy Pound, a fat, freckled
boy with chubby cheeks, who took half a dozen boys’
story-papers and was always being kept in for reading
detective stories behind his desk. There was Tip
Smith, destined by his freckles and red hair to be
the buffoon in all our games, though he walked like
a timid little old man and had a funny, cracked laugh.
Tip worked hard in his father’s grocery store
every afternoon, and swept it out before school in
the morning. Even his recreations were laborious.
He collected cigarette cards and tin tobacco-tags
indefatigably, and would sit for hours humped up over
a snarling little scroll-saw which he kept in his
attic. His dearest possessions were some little
pill-bottles that purported to contain grains of wheat
from the Holy Land, water from the Jordan and the
Dead Sea, and earth from the Mount of Olives.
His father had bought these dull things from a Baptist
missionary who peddled them, and Tip seemed to derive
great satisfaction from their remote origin.
The tall boy was Arthur Adams.
He had fine hazel eyes that were almost too reflective
and sympathetic for a boy, and such a pleasant voice
that we all loved to hear him read aloud. Even
when he had to read poetry aloud at school, no one
ever thought of laughing. To be sure, he was
not at school very much of the time. He was seventeen
and should have finished the High School the year before,
but he was always off somewhere with his gun.
Arthur’s mother was dead, and his father, who
was feverishly absorbed in promoting schemes, wanted
to send the boy away to school and get him off his
hands; but Arthur always begged off for another year
and promised to study. I remember him as a tall,
brown boy with an intelligent face, always lounging
among a lot of us little fellows, laughing at us oftener
than with us, but such a soft, satisfied laugh that
we felt rather flattered when we provoked it.
In after-years people said that Arthur had been given
to evil ways even as a lad, and it is true that we
often saw him with the gambler’s sons and with
old Spanish Fanny’s boy, but if he learned anything
ugly in their company he never betrayed it to us.
We would have followed Arthur anywhere, and I am bound
to say that he led us into no worse places than the
cattail marshes and the stubble fields. These,
then, were the boys who camped with me that summer
night upon the sand-bar.
After we finished our supper we beat
the willow thicket for driftwood. By the time
we had collected enough, night had fallen, and the
pungent, weedy smell from the shore increased with
the coolness. We threw ourselves down about the
fire and made another futile effort to show Percy
Pound the Little Dipper. We had tried it often
before, but he could never be got past the big one.
“You see those three big stars
just below the handle, with the bright one in the
middle?” said Otto Hassler; “that’s
Orion’s belt, and the bright one is the clasp.”
I crawled behind Otto’s shoulder and sighted
up his arm to the star that seemed perched upon the
tip of his steady forefinger. The Hassler boys
did seine-fishing at night, and they knew a good many
stars.
Percy gave up the Little Dipper and
lay back on the sand, his hands clasped under his
head. “I can see the North Star,”
he announced, contentedly, pointing toward it with
his big toe. “Any one might get lost and
need to know that.”
We all looked up at it.
“How do you suppose Columbus
felt when his compass didn’t point north any
more?” Tip asked.
Otto shook his head. “My
father says that there was another North Star once,
and that maybe this one won’t last always.
I wonder what would happen to us down here if anything
went wrong with it?”
Arthur chuckled. “I wouldn’t
worry, Ott. Nothing’s apt to happen to
it in your time. Look at the Milky Way! There
must be lots of good dead Indians.”
We lay back and looked, meditating,
at the dark cover of the world. The gurgle of
the water had become heavier. We had often noticed
a mutinous, complaining note in it at night, quite
different from its cheerful daytime chuckle, and seeming
like the voice of a much deeper and more powerful
stream. Our water had always these two moods:
the one of sunny complaisance, the other of inconsolable,
passionate regret.
“Queer how the stars are all
in sort of diagrams,” remarked Otto. “You
could do most any proposition in geometry with ’em.
They always look as if they meant something.
Some folks say everybody’s fortune is all written
out in the stars, don’t they?”
“They believe so in the old country,”
Fritz affirmed.
But Arthur only laughed at him.
“You’re thinking of Napoleon, Fritzey.
He had a star that went out when he began to lose battles.
I guess the stars don’t keep any close tally
on Sandtown folks.”
We were speculating on how many times
we could count a hundred before the evening star went
down behind the corn fields, when some one cried,
“There comes the moon, and it’s as big
as a cart wheel!”
We all jumped up to greet it as it
swam over the bluffs behind us. It came up like
a galleon in full sail; an enormous, barbaric thing,
red as an angry heathen god.
“When the moon came up red like
that, the Aztecs used to sacrifice their prisoners
on the temple top,” Percy announced.
“Go on, Perce. You got
that out of Golden Days. Do you believe
that, Arthur?” I appealed.
Arthur answered, quite seriously:
“Like as not. The moon was one of their
gods. When my father was in Mexico City he saw
the stone where they used to sacrifice their prisoners.”
As we dropped down by the fire again
some one asked whether the Mound-Builders were older
than the Aztecs. When we once got upon the Mound-Builders
we never willingly got away from them, and we were
still conjecturing when we heard a loud splash in the
water.
“Must have been a big cat jumping,”
said Fritz. “They do sometimes. They
must see bugs in the dark. Look what a track the
moon makes!”
There was a long, silvery streak on
the water, and where the current fretted over a big
log it boiled up like gold pieces.
“Suppose there ever was
any gold hid away in this old river?” Fritz
asked. He lay like a little brown Indian, close
to the fire, his chin on his hand and his bare feet
in the air. His brother laughed at him, but Arthur
took his suggestion seriously.
“Some of the Spaniards thought
there was gold up here somewhere. Seven cities
chuck full of gold, they had it, and Coronado and his
men came up to hunt it. The Spaniards were all
over this country once.”
Percy looked interested. “Was
that before the Mormons went through?”
We all laughed at this.
“Long enough before. Before
the Pilgrim Fathers, Perce. Maybe they came along
this very river. They always followed the watercourses.”
“I wonder where this river really
does begin?” Tip mused. That was an old
and a favorite mystery which the map did not clearly
explain. On the map the little black line stopped
somewhere in western Kansas; but since rivers generally
rose in mountains, it was only reasonable to suppose
that ours came from the Rockies. Its destination,
we knew, was the Missouri, and the Hassler boys always
maintained that we could embark at Sandtown in flood-time,
follow our noses, and eventually arrive at New Orleans.
Now they took up their old argument. “If
us boys had grit enough to try it, it wouldn’t
take no time to get to Kansas City and St. Joe.”
We began to talk about the places
we wanted to go to. The Hassler boys wanted to
see the stock-yards in Kansas City, and Percy wanted
to see a big store in Chicago. Arthur was interlocutor
and did not betray himself.
“Now it’s your turn, Tip.”
Tip rolled over on his elbow and poked
the fire, and his eyes looked shyly out of his queer,
tight little face. “My place is awful far
away. My uncle Bill told me about it.”
Tip’s Uncle Bill was a wanderer,
bitten with mining fever, who had drifted into Sandtown
with a broken arm, and when it was well had drifted
out again.
“Where is it?”
“Aw, it’s down in New
Mexico somewheres. There aren’t no railroads
or anything. You have to go on mules, and you
run out of water before you get there and have to
drink canned tomatoes.”
“Well, go on, kid. What’s
it like when you do get there?”
Tip sat up and excitedly began his story.
“There’s a big red rock
there that goes right up out of the sand for about
nine hundred feet. The country’s flat all
around it, and this here rock goes up all by itself,
like a monument. They call it the Enchanted Bluff
down there, because no white man has ever been on
top of it. The sides are smooth rock, and straight
up, like a wall. The Indians say that hundreds
of years ago, before the Spaniards came, there was
a village away up there in the air. The tribe
that lived there had some sort of steps, made out
of wood and bark, hung down over the face of the bluff,
and the braves went down to hunt and carried water
up in big jars swung on their backs. They kept
a big supply of water and dried meat up there, and
never went down except to hunt. They were a peaceful
tribe that made cloth and pottery, and they went up
there to get out of the wars. You see, they could
pick off any war party that tried to get up their little
steps. The Indians say they were a handsome people,
and they had some sort of a queer religion. Uncle
Bill thinks they were Cliff-Dwellers who had got into
trouble and left home. They weren’t fighters,
anyhow.
“One time the braves were down
hunting and an awful storm came up a kind
of waterspout and when they got back to
their rock they found their little staircase had been
all broken to pieces, and only a few steps were left
hanging away up in the air. While they were camped
at the foot of the rock, wondering what to do, a war
party from the north came along and massacred ’em
to a man, with all the old folks and women looking
on from the rock. Then the war party went on south
and left the village to get down the best way they
could. Of course they never got down. They
starved to death up there, and when the war party
came back on their way north, they could hear the children
crying from the edge of the bluff where they had crawled
out, but they didn’t see a sign of a grown Indian,
and nobody has ever been up there since.”
We exclaimed at this dolorous legend and sat up.
“There couldn’t have been
many people up there,” Percy demurred.
“How big is the top, Tip?”
“Oh, pretty big. Big enough
so that the rock doesn’t look nearly as tall
as it is. The top’s bigger than the base.
The bluff is sort of worn away for several hundred
feet up. That’s one reason it’s so
hard to climb.”
I asked how the Indians got up, in the first place.
“Nobody knows how they got up
or when. A hunting party came along once and
saw that there was a town up there, and that was all.”
Otto rubbed his chin and looked thoughtful.
“Of course there must be some way to get up
there. Couldn’t people get a rope over someway
and pull a ladder up?”
Tip’s little eyes were shining
with excitement. “I know a way. Me
and Uncle Bill talked it all over. There’s
a kind of rocket that would take a rope over life-savers
use ’em and then you could hoist
a rope-ladder and peg it down at the bottom and make
it tight with guy-ropes on the other side. I’m
going to climb that there bluff, and I’ve got
it all planned out.”
Fritz asked what he expected to find
when he got up there.
“Bones, maybe, or the ruins
of their town, or pottery, or some of their idols.
There might be ’most anything up there.
Anyhow, I want to see.”
“Sure nobody else has been up
there, Tip?” Arthur asked.
“Dead sure. Hardly anybody
ever goes down there. Some hunters tried to cut
steps in the rock once, but they didn’t get higher
than a man can reach. The Bluff’s all red
granite, and Uncle Bill thinks it’s a boulder
the glaciers left. It’s a queer place, anyhow.
Nothing but cactus and desert for hundreds of miles,
and yet right under the bluff there’s good water
and plenty of grass. That’s why the bison
used to go down there.”
Suddenly we heard a scream above our
fire, and jumped up to see a dark, slim bird floating
southward far above us a whooping-crane,
we knew by her cry and her long neck. We ran to
the edge of the island, hoping we might see her alight,
but she wavered southward along the rivercourse until
we lost her. The Hassler boys declared that by
the look of the heavens it must be after midnight,
so we threw more wood on our fire, put on our jackets,
and curled down in the warm sand. Several of
us pretended to doze, but I fancy we were really thinking
about Tip’s Bluff and the extinct people.
Over in the wood the ring-doves were calling mournfully
to one another, and once we heard a dog bark, far
away. “Somebody getting into old Tommy’s
melon patch,” Fritz murmured, sleepily, but nobody
answered him. By and by Percy spoke out of the
shadow.
“Say, Tip, when you go down
there will you take me with you?”
“Maybe.”
“Suppose one of us beats you down there, Tip?”
“Whoever gets to the Bluff first
has got to promise to tell the rest of us exactly
what he finds,” remarked one of the Hassler boys,
and to this we all readily assented.
Somewhat reassured, I dropped off
to sleep. I must have dreamed about a race for
the Bluff, for I awoke in a kind of fear that other
people were getting ahead of me and that I was losing
my chance. I sat up in my damp clothes and looked
at the other boys, who lay tumbled in uneasy attitudes
about the dead fire. It was still dark, but the
sky was blue with the last wonderful azure of night.
The stars glistened like crystal globes, and trembled
as if they shone through a depth of clear water.
Even as I watched, they began to pale and the sky
brightened. Day came suddenly, almost instantaneously.
I turned for another look at the blue night, and it
was gone. Everywhere the birds began to call,
and all manner of little insects began to chirp and
hop about in the willows. A breeze sprang up
from the west and brought the heavy smell of ripened
corn. The boys rolled over and shook themselves.
We stripped and plunged into the river just as the
sun came up over the windy bluffs.
When I came home to Sandtown at Christmas
time, we skated out to our island and talked over
the whole project of the Enchanted Bluff, renewing
our resolution to find it.
Although that was twenty years ago,
none of us have ever climbed the Enchanted Bluff.
Percy Pound is a stockbroker in Kansas City and will
go nowhere that his red touring-car cannot carry him.
Otto Hassler went on the railroad and lost his foot
braking; after which he and Fritz succeeded their
father as the town tailors.
Arthur sat about the sleepy little
town all his life he died before he was
twenty-five. The last time I saw him, when I was
home on one of my college vacations, he was sitting
in a steamer-chair under a cottonwood tree in the
little yard behind one of the two Sandtown saloons.
He was very untidy and his hand was not steady, but
when he rose, unabashed, to greet me, his eyes were
as clear and warm as ever. When I had talked
with him for an hour and heard him laugh again, I
wondered how it was that when Nature had taken such
pains with a man, from his hands to the arch of his
long foot, she had ever lost him in Sandtown.
He joked about Tip Smith’s Bluff, and declared
he was going down there just as soon as the weather
got cooler; he thought the Grand Canyon might be worth
while, too.
I was perfectly sure when I left him
that he would never get beyond the high plank fence
and the comfortable shade of the cottonwood.
And, indeed, it was under that very tree that he died
one summer morning.
Tip Smith still talks about going
to New Mexico. He married a slatternly, unthrifty
country girl, has been much tied to a perambulator,
and has grown stooped and gray from irregular meals
and broken sleep. But the worst of his difficulties
are now over, and he has, as he says, come into easy
water. When I was last in Sandtown I walked home
with him late one moonlight night, after he had balanced
his cash and shut up his store. We took the long
way around and sat down on the schoolhouse steps,
and between us we quite revived the romance of the
lone red rock and the extinct people. Tip insists
that he still means to go down there, but he thinks
now he will wait until his boy, Bert, is old enough
to go with him. Bert has been let into the story,
and thinks of nothing but the Enchanted Bluff.
Harper’s,
April 1909