The proposal for a moonlight ramble
was received with acclamation by all the younger portion
of the company. They immediately set forth and
descended from story to story, dimly lighting their
way by waxen tapers, which are a necessary equipment
to those whose thoroughfare, in the night-time, lies
up and down a Roman staircase. Emerging from the
courtyard of the edifice, they looked upward and saw
the sky full of light, which seemed to have a delicate
purple or crimson lustre, or, at least some richer
tinge than the cold, white moonshine of other skies.
It gleamed over the front of the opposite palace, showing
the architectural ornaments of its cornice and pillared
portal, as well as the iron-barred basement windows,
that gave such a prison-like aspect to the structure,
and the shabbiness and Squalor that lay along its base.
A cobbler was just shutting up his little shop, in
the basement of the palace; a cigar vender’s
lantern flared in the blast that came through the
archway; a French sentinel paced to and fro before
the portal; a homeless dog, that haunted thereabouts,
barked as obstreperously at the party as if he were
the domestic guardian of the precincts.
The air was quietly full of the noise
of falling water, the cause of which was nowhere visible,
though apparently near at hand. This pleasant,
natural sound, not unlike that of a distant cascade
in the forest, may be heard in many of the Roman streets
and piazzas, when the tumult of the city is hushed;
for consuls, emperors, and popes, the great men of
every age, have found no better way of immortalizing
their memories than by the shifting, indestructible,
ever new, yet unchanging, upgush and downfall of water.
They have written their names in that unstable element,
and proved it a more durable record than brass or
marble.
“Donatello, you had better take
one of those gay, boyish artists for your companion,”
said Miriam, when she found the Italian youth at her
side. “I am not now in a merry mood, as
when we set all the world a-dancing the other afternoon,
in the Borghese grounds.”
“I never wish to dance any more,” answered
Donatello.
“What a melancholy was in that
tone!” exclaimed Miriam. “You are
getting spoilt in this dreary Rome, and will be as
wise and as wretched as all the rest of mankind, unless
you go back soon to your Tuscan vineyards. Well;
give me your arm, then! But take care that no
friskiness comes over you. We must walk evenly
and heavily to-night!”
The party arranged itself according
to its natural affinities or casual likings; a sculptor
generally choosing a painter, and a painter a sculp tor,
for his companion, in preference to brethren of their
own art. Kenyon would gladly have taken Hilda
to himself, and have drawn her a little aside from
the throng of merry wayfarers. But she kept near
Miriam, and seemed, in her gentle and quiet way, to
decline a separate alliance either with him or any
other of her acquaintances.
So they set forth, and had gone but
a little way, when the narrow street emerged into
a piazza, on one side of which, glistening and dimpling
in the moonlight, was the most famous fountain in
Rome. Its murmur not to say its uproar had
been in the ears of the company, ever since they came
into the open air. It was the Fountain of Trevi,
which draws its precious water from a source far beyond
the walls, whence it flows hitherward through old
subterranean aqueducts, and sparkles forth as pure
as the virgin who first led Agrippa to its well-spring,
by her father’s door.
“I shall sip as much of this
water as the hollow of my hand will hold,” said
Miriam.
“I am leaving Rome in a few
days; and the tradition goes, that a parting draught
at the Fountain of Trevi insures the traveller’s
return, whatever obstacles and improbabilities may
seem to beset him. Will you drink, Donatello?”
“Signorina, what you drink, I drink,”
said the youth.
They and the rest of the party descended
some steps to the water’s brim, and, after a
sip or two, stood gazing at the absurd design of the
fountain, where some sculptor of Bernini’s school
had gone absolutely mad in marble. It was a great
palace front, with niches and many bas-reliefs, out
of which looked Agrippa’s legendary virgin, and
several of the allegoric sisterhood; while, at the
base, appeared Neptune, with his floundering steeds,
and Tritons blowing their horns about him, and
twenty other artificial fantasies, which the calm moonlight
soothed into better taste than was native to them.
And, after all, it was as magnificent
a piece of work as ever human skill contrived.
At the foot of the palatial façade was strewn, with
careful art and ordered irregularity, a broad and broken
heap of massive rock, looking is if it might have
lain there since the deluge. Over a central precipice
fell the water, in a semicircular cascade; and from
a hundred crevices, on all sides, snowy jets gushed
up, and streams spouted out of the mouths and nostrils
of stone monsters, and fell in glistening drops; while
other rivulets, that had run wild, came leaping from
one rude step to another, over stones that were mossy,
slimy, and green with sedge, because, in a Century
of their wild play, Nature had adopted the Fountain
of Trevi, with all its elaborate devices, for her
own. Finally, the water, tumbling, sparkling,
and dashing, with joyous haste and never-ceasing murmur,
poured itself into a great marble-brimmed reservoir,
and filled it with a quivering tide; on which was
seen, continually, a snowy semicircle of momentary
foam from the principal cascade, as well as a multitude
of snow points from smaller jets. The basin occupied
the whole breadth of the piazza, whence flights of
steps descended to its border. A boat might float,
and make voyages from one shore to another in this
mimic lake.
In the daytime, there is hardly a
livelier scene in Rome than the neighborhood of the
Fountain of Trevi; for the piazza is then filled with
the stalls of vegetable and fruit dealers, chestnut
roasters, cigar venders, and other people, whose petty
and wandering traffic is transacted in the open air.
It is likewise thronged with idlers, lounging over
the iron railing, and with Forestieri, who came hither
to see the famous fountain. Here, also, are seen
men with buckets, urchins with cans, and maidens (a
picture as old as the patriarchal times) bearing their
pitchers upon their heads. For the water of Trevi
is in request, far and wide, as the most refreshing
draught for feverish lips, the pleasantest to mingle
with wine, and the wholesomest to drink, in its native
purity, that can anywhere be found. But now, at
early midnight, the piazza was a solitude; and it
was a delight to behold this untamable water, sporting
by itself in the moonshine, and compelling all the
elaborate trivialities of art to assume a natural aspect,
in accordance with its own powerful simplicity.
“What would be done with this
water power,” suggested an artist, “if
we had it in one of our American cities? Would
they employ it to turn the machinery of a cotton mill,
I wonder?”
“The good people would pull
down those rampant marble deities,” said Kenyon,
“and, possibly, they would give me a commission
to carve the one-and-thirty (is that the number?)
sister States, each pouring a silver stream from a
separate can into one vast basin, which should represent
the grand reservoir of national prosperity.”
“Or, if they wanted a bit of
satire,” remarked an English artist, “you
could set those same one-and-thirty States to cleansing
the national flag of any stains that it may have incurred.
The Roman washerwomen at the lavatory yonder, plying
their labor in the open air, would serve admirably
as models.”
“I have often intended to visit
this fountain by moonlight,”, said Miriam, “because
it was here that the interview took place between
Corinne and Lord Neville, after their separation and
temporary estrangement. Pray come behind me,
one of you, and let me try whether the face can be
recognized in the water.”
Leaning over the stone brim of the
basin, she heard footsteps stealing behind her, and
knew that somebody was looking over her shoulder.
The moonshine fell directly behind Miriam, illuminating
the palace front and the whole scene of statues and
rocks, and filling the basin, as it were, with tremulous
and palpable light. Corinne, it will be remembered,
knew Lord Neville by the reflection of his face in
the water. In Miriam’s case, however (owing
to the agitation of the water, its transparency, and
the angle at which she was compelled to lean over),
no reflected image appeared; nor, from the same causes,
would it have been possible for the recognition between
Corinne and her lover to take place. The moon,
indeed, flung Miriam’s shadow at the bottom of
the basin, as well as two more shadows of persons
who had followed her, on either side.
“Three shadows!” exclaimed
Miriam “three separate shadows, all
so black and heavy that they sink in the water!
There they lie on the bottom, as if all three were
drowned together. This shadow on my right is
Donatello; I know him by his curls, and the turn of
his head. My left-hand companion puzzles me;
a shapeless mass, as indistinct as the premonition
of calamity! Which of you can it be? Ah!”
She had turned round, while speaking,
and saw beside her the strange creature whose attendance
on her was already familiar, as a marvel and a jest;
to the whole company of artists. A general burst
of laughter followed the recognition; while the model
leaned towards Miriam, as she shrank from him, and
muttered something that was inaudible to those who
witnessed the scene. By his gestures, however,
they concluded that he was inviting her to bathe her
hands.
“He cannot be an Italian; at
least not a Roman,” observed an artist.
“I never knew one of them to care about ablution.
See him now! It is as if he were trying to wash
off’ the time-stains and earthly soil of a thousand
years!”
Dipping his hands into the capacious
washbowl before him, the model rubbed them together
with the utmost vehemence. Ever and anon, too,
he peeped into the water, as if expecting to see the
whole Fountain of Trevi turbid with the results of
his ablution. Miriam looked at him, some little
time, with an aspect of real terror, and even imitated
him by leaning over to peep into the basin. Recovering
herself, she took up some of the water in the hollow
of her hand, and practised an old form of exorcism
by flinging it in her persecutor’s face.
“In the name of all the Saints,”
cried she, “vanish, Demon, and let me be free
of you now and forever!”
“It will not suffice,”
said some of the mirthful party, “unless the
Fountain of Trevi gushes with holy water.”
In fact, the exorcism was quite ineffectual
upon the pertinacious demon, or whatever the apparition
might be. Still he washed his brown, bony talons;
still he peered into the vast basin, as if all the
water of that great drinking-cup of Rome must needs
be stained black or sanguine; and still he gesticulated
to Miriam to follow his example. The spectators
laughed loudly, but yet with a kind of constraint;
for the creature’s aspect was strangely repulsive
and hideous.
Miriam felt her arm seized violently
by Donatello. She looked at him, and beheld a
tigerlike fury gleaming from his wild eyes.
“Bid me drown him!” whispered
he, shuddering between rage and horrible disgust.
“You shall hear his death gurgle in another instant!”
“Peace, peace, Donatello!”
said Miriam soothingly, for this naturally gentle
and sportive being seemed all aflame with animal rage.
“Do him no mischief! He is mad; and we
are as mad as he, if we suffer ourselves to be disquieted
by his antics. Let us leave him to bathe his hands
till the fountain run dry, if he find solace and pastime
in it. What is it to you or me, Donatello?
There, there! Be quiet, foolish boy!”
Her tone and gesture were such as
she might have used in taming down the wrath of a
faithful hound, that had taken upon himself to avenge
some supposed affront to his mistress. She smoothed
the young man’s curls (for his fierce and sudden
fury seemed to bristle among his hair), and touched
his cheek with her soft palm, till his angry mood was
a little assuaged.
“Signorina, do I look as when
you first knew me?” asked he, with a heavy,
tremulous sigh, as they went onward, somewhat apart
from their companions. “Methinks there
has been a change upon me, these many months; and
more and more, these last few days. The joy is
gone out of my life; all gone! all gone! Feel
my hand! Is it not very hot? Ah; and my
heart burns hotter still!”
“My poor Donatello, you are
ill!” said Miriam, with deep sympathy and pity.
“This melancholy and sickly Rome is stealing
away the rich, joyous life that belongs to you.
Go back, my dear friend, to your home among the hills,
where (as I gather from what you have told me) your
days were filled with simple and blameless delights.
Have you found aught in the world that is worth’
what you there enjoyed? Tell me truly, Donatello!”
“Yes!” replied the young man.
“And what, in Heaven’s name?” asked
she.
“This burning pain in my heart,”
said Donatello; “for you are in the midst of
it.”
By this time, they had left the Fountain
of Trevi considerably behind them. Little further
allusion was made to the scene at its margin; for
the party regarded Miriam’s persecutor as diseased
in his wits, and were hardly to be surprised by any
eccentricity in his deportment.
Threading several narrow streets,
they passed through the Piazza of the Holy Apostles,
and soon came to Trajan’s Forum. All over
the surface of what once was Rome, it seems to be
the effort of Time to bury up the ancient city, as
if it were a corpse, and he the sexton; so that, in
eighteen centuries, the soil over its grave has grown
very deep, by the slow scattering of dust, and the
accumulation of more modern decay upon older ruin.
This was the fate, also, of Trajan’s
Forum, until some papal antiquary, a few hundred years
ago, began to hollow it out again, and disclosed the
full height of the gigantic column wreathed round with
bas-reliefs of the old emperor’s warlike deeds.
In the area before it stands a grove of stone, consisting
of the broken and unequal shafts of a vanished temple,
still keeping a majestic order, and apparently incapable
of further demolition. The modern edifices of
the piazza (wholly built, no doubt, out of the spoil
of its old magnificence) look down into the hollow
space whence these pillars rise.
One of the immense gray granite shafts
lay in the piazza, on the verge of the area.
It was a great, solid fact of the Past, making old
Rome actually sensible to the touch and eye; and no
study of history, nor force of thought, nor magic
of song, could so vitally assure us that Rome once
existed, as this sturdy specimen of what its rulers
and people wrought.
“And see!” said Kenyon,
laying his hand upon it, “there is still a polish
remaining on the hard substance of the pillar; and
even now, late as it is, I can feel very sensibly
the warmth of the noonday sun, which did its best
to heat it through. This shaft will endure forever.
The polish of eighteen centuries ago, as yet but half
rubbed off, and the heat of to-day’s sunshine,
lingering into the night, seem almost equally ephemeral
in relation to it.”
“There is comfort to be found
in the pillar,” remarked Miriam, “hard
and heavy as it is. Lying here forever, as it
will, it makes all human trouble appear but a momentary
annoyance.”
“And human happiness as evanescent
too,” observed Hilda, sighing; “and beautiful
art hardly less so! I do not love to think that
this dull stone, merely by its massiveness, will last
infinitely longer than any picture, in spite of the
spiritual life that ought to give it immortality!”
“My poor little Hilda,”
said Miriam, kissing her compassionately, “would
you sacrifice this greatest mortal consolation, which
we derive from the transitoriness of all things, from
the right of saying, in every conjecture, ‘This,
too, will pass away,’ would you give up this
unspeakable boon, for the sake of making a picture
eternal?”
Their moralizing strain was interrupted
by a demonstration from the rest of the party, who,
after talking and laughing together, suddenly joined
their voices, and shouted at full pitch,
“Trajan! Trajan!”
“Why do you deafen us with such an uproar?”
inquired Miriam.
In truth, the whole piazza had been
filled with their idle vociferation; the echoes from
the surrounding houses reverberating the cry of “Trajan,”
on all sides; as if there was a great search for that
imperial personage, and not so much as a handful of
his ashes to be found.
“Why, it was a good opportunity
to air our voices in this resounding piazza,”
replied one of the artists. “Besides, we
had really some hopes of summoning Trajan to look
at his column, which, you know, he never saw in his
lifetime. Here is your model (who, they say, lived
and sinned before Trajan’s death) still wandering
about Rome; and why not the Emperor Trajan?”
“Dead emperors have very little
delight in their columns, I am afraid,” observed
Kenyon. “All that rich sculpture of Trajan’s
bloody warfare, twining from the base of the pillar
to its capital, may be but an ugly spectacle for his
ghostly eyes, if he considers that this huge, storied
shaft must be laid before the judgment-seat, as a piece
of the evidence of what he did in the flesh.
If ever I am employed to sculpture a hero’s
monument, I shall think of this, as I put in the bas-reliefs
of the pedestal!”
“There are sermons in stones,”
said Hilda thoughtfully, smiling at Kenyon’s
morality; “and especially in the stones of Rome.”
The party moved on, but deviated a
little from the straight way, in order to glance at
the ponderous remains of the temple of Mars Ultot,
within which a convent of nuns is now established, a
dove-cote, in the war-god’s mansion. At
only a little distance, they passed the portico of
a Temple of Minerva, most rich and beautiful in architecture,
but woefully gnawed by time and shattered by violence,
besides being buried midway in the accumulation of
soil, that rises over dead Rome like a flood tide.
Within this edifice of antique sanctity, a baker’s
shop was now established, with an entrance on one
side; for, everywhere, the remnants of old grandeur
and divinity have been made available for the meanest
necessities of today.
“The baker is just drawing his
loaves out of the oven,” remarked Kenyon.
“Do you smell how sour they are? I should
fancy that Minerva (in revenge for the desecration
of her temple) had slyly poured vinegar into the batch,
if I did not know that the modern Romans prefer their
bread in the acetous fermentation.”
They turned into the Via Alessandria,
and thus gained the rear of the Temple of Peace, and,
passing beneath its great arches, pursued their way
along a hedge-bordered lane. In all probability,
a stately Roman street lay buried beneath that rustic-looking
pathway; for they had now emerged from the close and
narrow avenues of the modern city, and were treading
on a soil where the seeds of antique grandeur had not
yet produced the squalid crop that elsewhere sprouts
from them. Grassy as the lane was, it skirted
along heaps of shapeless ruin, and the bare site of
the vast temple that Hadrian planned and built.
It terminated on the edge of a somewhat abrupt descent,
at the foot of which, with a muddy ditch between,
rose, in the bright moonlight, the great curving wall
and multitudinous arches of the Coliseum.