A short time ago I came across in
a daily newspaper the narrative of a traveller in
the South Seas full of illuminating remarks on the
ease with which any one can now acquire a fortune
in the Pacific Islands; it afforded me considerable
reflection, mixed with a keen regret that I had squandered
over a quarter of a century of my life in the most
stupid manner, by ignoring the golden opportunities
that must have been jostling me wherever I went.
The articles were very cleverly penned, and really
made very pretty reading so pretty, in fact,
that I was moved to briefly narrate my experience
of the subject in the columns of the Westminster
Gazette with the result that many a weary, struggling
trader in the Solomon Islands, the New Hebrides and
other groups of islands in the South Pacific rose
up and called me blessed when they read my article,
for I sent five and twenty copies of the paper to as
many traders. Others doubtless obtained the journal
from the haughty brass-bound pursers (there are no
“supercargoes” now) of the Sydney and
Auckland steamers. For the steamers, with their
high-collared, clerkly pursers, have supplanted for
good the trim schooners, with their brown-faced,
pyjama-clad supercargoes, and the romance of the South
Seas has gone. But it has not gone in the imagination
of some people.
I must mention that my copies of the
Westminster Gazette crossed no less than nine
letters written to me by old friends and comrades from
various islands in the Pacific, asking me to do what
I had done put the true condition of affairs
in Polynesia before the public, and help to keep unsuitable
and moneyless men from going out to the South Sea
Islands to starve. For they had read the illuminating
series of articles to which I refer, and felt very
savage.
In a cabin-trunk of mine I have some
hundreds of letters, written to me during the past
ten years by people from all parts of the world, who
wanted to go to the South Seas and lead an idyllic
life and make fortunes, and wished me to show them
how to go about it. Many of these letters are
amusing, some are pathetic; some, which were so obviously
insane, I did not answer. The rest I did.
I cannot reproduce them in print. I am keeping
them to read to my friends in heaven. Even an
old ex-South Sea trader may get there if
he can dodge the other place. Quién sabe?
Twenty-one of these letters reached
me in France during February, March and April of last
year. They were written by men and women who had
been reading the above-mentioned series of brilliant
articles. (I regret to state that fourteen only had
a penny stamp thereon, and I had to pay four francs
postal dues.) The articles were, as I have said, very
charmingly written, especially the descriptive passages.
But nearly every person that the “Special Commissioner”
met in the South Seas seems to have been very energetically
and wickedly employed in “pulling the ’Special
Commissioner’s leg”.
The late Lord Pembroke described two
classes of people “those who know
and don’t write, and those who write and don’t
know”.
Let me cull a few only of the statements
in one of the articles entitled “The Trader’s
Prospects”. It is an article so nicely written
that it is hard to shake off the glamour of it and
get to facts. It says:
“The salaries paid by a big
Australian firm to its traders may run from L50 to
L200 a year, with board (that is, the run of the store)
and a house.”
There are possibly fifty men in the
Pacific Islands who are receiving L200 a year from
trading firms. Five pounds per month, with a specified
ration list, and 5 per cent, commission on his sales
is the usual thing and has been so for
the past fifteen years. As for taking “the
run of the store,” he would be quickly asked
to take another run. The trader who works for
a firm has a struggle to exist.
“In the Solomons and New Hebrides
you can start trading on a capital of L100 or so,
and make cent, per cent, on island produce.”
A man would want at least L500 to
L600 to start even in the smallest way. Here
are some of his requirements, which he must buy before
leaving Sydney or Auckland to start as an independent
trader in Melanesia or Polynesia: Trade goods,
L400; provisions for twelve months, L100; boat with
all gear, from L25 to L60; tools, firearms, etc, L15
to L30. Then there is passage money, L15 to L20;
freight on his goods, say L40. If he lands anywhere
in Polynesia Samoa, Tonga, Cook’s
Islands, or elsewhere he will have Customs
duties to pay, house rent, and a trading licence.
And everywhere he will find keen competition and measly
profits, unless he lives like a Chinaman on rice and
fish.
“In British New Guinea you can
dig gold in hand-fuls out of the mangrove swamps”
(O ye gods!) “and prospect for any other mineral
you may choose.”
Gold-mining in British New Guinea
is carried out under the most trying conditions of
toil and hardships, The fitting out of a prospecting-party
of four costs quite L500 to L1,000. And only very
experienced diggers tackle mining in the Possession.
And his Honour the Administrator will not let improperly
equipped parties into the Possession.
“It is the simplest thing in
the world” to become a pearl sheller. “You
charter a schooner or even a cutter if
you are a smart seaman and know the Pacific, use her
for general trading... and every now and then go and
look up some one of the innumerable reefs and low atolla...
Some are beds of treasure, full of pearl-shell, that
sells at L100 to L200 the ton,” etc.
All very pretty! Here is the
“simplicity” of it taking it
at so much per month: Charter of small
schooner of one hundred tons, L200 to L300; wages
of captain and crew, L40; cost of provisions and wear
and tear of canvas, running gear, etc., L60 (diving
suits and gear for two divers, and boat would have
to be bought at a cost of some hundreds of pounds);
wages per month of each diver from L50 to L75, with
often a commission on the shell they raise. Then
you can go a-sailing, and cherchez around for
your treasure beds. If you dive in Dutch waters,
the gunboats collar you and your ship; if you go into
British waters you will find that the business is
under strict inspection by Commonwealth officials
who keep a properly sharp eye on your doings.
If you wish to go into the French Paumotus you have
first to visit Tahiti, and apply for and pay 2,500
francs for a half-yearly licence to dive. (Most likely
you won’t get it) If you try without this licence
to buy even a single pearl from the natives, you will
get into trouble as my ship did in the
“seventies,” when the gunboat Vaudreuil
swooped down on us, sent a prize crew aboard, put
some of us in irons, and towed us to Tahiti, where
we lay in Papeite harbour for three months, until legal
proceedings were finished and the ship was liberated.
“About L150 would be the lowest
sum with which such a work” (scooping up the
treasure) “could be carried out. This would
provide a small schooner or a cutter from Auckland
for a few months with all necessary stores. She
would require two men, competent to navigate, two A.B.’s,
and a diver, in order to be run safely and comfortably;
and the wages of these would be an extra cost A couple
of experienced yachtsmen could, of course, manage
the affair more cheaply.”
Some of these recent nine letters
which I received contained some very interesting facts.
One man, an old trader in Polynesia, wrote me as follows:
“Some of these poor beggars actually land in
Polynesian ports with a trunk or two of glass beads,
penny looking-glasses, twopenny knives and other weird
rubbish, and are aghast to see large stores stocked
with thousands of pounds’ worth of goods of all
kinds, goods which are sold to the natives at a very
low margin of profit, for competition is very keen.
In the Society Islands the Chinese storekeepers undersell
us whites they live cheaper.”
And “in Levuka and Suva, in Fiji, in Rarotonga
and other islands there are scores of broken-down
white men. They cannot be called ‘beachcombers,’
for there is nothing on the beach for them to comb.
They live on the charity of the traders and natives.
If they were sailor-men they could perhaps get fifteen
dollars a month on the schooners. Why they
come here is a mystery.... Most of them seem
to be clerks or school-teachers. One is a violin
teacher. Another young fellow brought out a typewriting
machine; he is now yardman at a Suva hotel. A
third is a married man with two young children.
He is a French polisher, wife a milliner. They
came from Belfast, and landed with eleven pounds!
Hotel expenses swallowed all that in three weeks.
Money is being collected to send them to Auckland,”
and so on. There is always so much mischief being
done by globe-trotting tourists and ill-informed and
irresponsible novelists who scurry through the Southern
Seas on a liner, and then publish their hasty impressions.
According to them, any one with a modicum of common
sense can shake the South Sea Pagoda Tree and become
bloatedly wealthy in a year or so.
Did the “Special Commissioner”
know that these articles would lead to much misery
and suffering? No, of course not. They were
written in good faith, but without knowledge.
For instance, the wild statement about looking up
“some one of the innumerable reefs and low atolls...
beds of treasure, full of pearl-shell that sells at
L100 to L200 the ton,” etc. there
is not one single reef or atoll either in the North
or South Pacific that has not been carefully prospected
for pearl-shell during the past thirty-five years.
Then as to gold-mining in British
New Guinea, “where you can dig gold in handfuls
out of the mangrove swamps”.
Diggers who go to New Guinea have
to go through the formality of first paying their
passages to that country from Australia. Then,
on arrival, they have to arrange the important matter
of engaging native carriers to take their outfit to
the Mambare River gold-fields a tedious
and expensive item. And only experienced men
of sterling physique can stand the awful labour and
hardships of gold-mining in the Possession. Deadly
malarial fever adds to the diggers’ hard lot
in New Guinea, and the natives, when not savage and
treacherous, are as unreliable and as lazy as a Spanish
priest.
In conclusion, I can assure my readers
that there is no prospect for any man of limited means
to make money in the South Seas as a trader. Any
assertions to the contrary have no basis of fact in
them. In cotton and coco-nut planting there are
good openings for men of the right stamp; in the second
industry, however, one has to wait six years before
his trees are in full bearing.